CA1272958A

CA1272958A - Hair protection composition

Info

Publication number: CA1272958A
Application number: CA000523098A
Authority: CA
Inventors: Walter P. Smith; Frederick J. Penna
Original assignee: Estee Lauder Inc
Current assignee: Estee Lauder Inc
Priority date: 1985-11-22
Filing date: 1986-11-17
Publication date: 1990-08-21
Also published as: ATE80281T1; JPS62126112A; US4786493A; DE3686701T2; JPH0772121B2; EP0223257A2; AU6538186A; ES2043599T3; EP0223257B1; DE3686701D1; EP0223257A3; AU589079B2

Abstract

ABSTRACT
Disclosed are a composition for protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light and a method of using the composition. The composition comprises:
(a) a first component selected from the group consisting of a material having superoxide dismutase activity, ascorbic acid, Cytochrome C, mixtures of nicotinamide dehydrogenase and lactate dehydrogenase, uric acid, uric acid salts, and mix-tures thereof;
(b) a second component selected from the group consisting of mannitol, catalase, and mixtures thereof, and (c) a third component selected from the group consisting of a disulfide, a thiol, and mixtures thereof, said disulfide and said thiol each having a molecular weight of at least about 100.

Description

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H~IR p~oT$cTIoN-coMæosITIoN

}iel d ~If 'l~ n The pxesent invention relates to a composi-S tion for protecti~g hair from damage caus~d by exposure to ultraviolet light and to a method of protecting hair from such damage comprising applying a~ effective amount of the composition to ~he hair.
ack~_und Of The_Invention Hair predominantly comprises c~rtain poly-peptide chains that a~re held together by disulfide bonds ~hat link adjacent polypeptide chains. These bonds, which are formed from kwo cysteine amino a~id rPsidues on the adjacent kerati~ pol~peptides, impart to the hair its mechanical strength and e~tensibility.
Exp~ure to th~ sun tends ~o cause breakage of these disulide bonds predominan~ly on the outer suxface of the hair, including the outer surface of the haix cuticle. Thi~ result~ in ~iffness and brittleness of the hair i~ dry weather and in friz~ine~s of the hair in humid weather. It also results in the hair losing its color and luster. In addition, ~he breakage of the disulfide bonds of the keratin causes a protective layer of the hair to be broken 25 down, thereby resulting in importallt constituents of the hair being extracted from the hair during washing.

~, ,, ~, ., .. `':'~ ' ,, ~ -Sun damage to hair has been con~rolled by ut1lizing sunscreens which, when deposited on the hair, absorb ultraviolet light that would otherwise be absorbed by the hair itself. Sunscreen containing S composltions, however, tend to be very oily, with t~e resul~ that they typically are not esthetically appealing. Moreover, many commercially available sunscreen~ are not effective to shield ~he hair from all the ul~raviolet light in sunlight. For example, a formulation of paraaminobenzolc acid (PABA), when it is deposited on th~ hair, t~pically might absorb only about 45 percent of the incident UVB ultraviolet radiation and virtually none of ~he radiation in the W A region.
Summary Of The Invention The present invention is directed to a composition for protecting hair from damage caused by ultraviolet light and to a method of protecting haix from such ultraviolet light by applying the composition ~o the hair. The composition comprises:
(a) a first component selected from the group consisting of a material having supexoxide dismutase activity le.g., a liver glycogen extract or superoxide dismutase itself), ascorbic acid, Cytochrome C, mi~tures of nicotinamide dehydrogenase ~N~DH~ and lactate dehydrogenase (LD~), uric acid, uric acid salts (e.g., an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium salt of uric acid), and mixtures thereof;
_ 30 (b) a seco~d component selected from the group consisting of mannitol, catalase, and mixtures thereof; and (c~ a third component selected from the group consisting of a disulfide, a thiol, and mixtures thereof, said disulfide and said thiol each having a molecular weight of at least about 100.

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The disulfide and thiol used in our inven-tion preferably have a molecular weight between ~bout - 100 and about 1500. We believe that in use, the disulfide or thiol or mixture thereof is absorbed into the hair, where it absorbs ultraviolet light that would otherwise bP absorbed by the cysteine residues-of the keratin in ~he hair. We also believe that the disulfide or thiol or mixture thexeof reacts with superoxide anions and singlet oxygen ~ha~ are formed in ~he hair as a resul~ of the hair's absorp-tion of ultxaviolet light. If such a reaction did not occur, the superoxide anions and singlet o~ygen might otherwise oxidize cysteine residu s of the keratin in the hair.
The first component if the composition of our invention preferably comprises a material selected from the group consisting of a mat~rial having superoxide dismutase activi~y, a~corbic acid, and Cy~ochrome C. Most preferably, a material having supero~ide dismutase activity or mixtures of a material having superoxide dismutase activity and - one or more of the o~her materials listed in paragraph ( a ) above is used as the first component of our in~ention. When mixtures of NAD~ and L~ arP
~5 used as our first compone~t, preferably the mi~ture comprises about equal par~s by weight of each com-ponent.
The second component of ou~ composition is preferably mannitol.
With respect to the third component of our compositio~, preferred materials are selected rom the group consisting of cysteamine, pantethine, pantethine palmitate, ~hioctoic acid, oxidized gluta-~hione (also referred to as N,N~{dithiobis [l-[(car-boxymethyl)car~amoyl] ethylene~} r diglutamine, or ylutathione disulfide ) and mixtures thereof. Most preferably, the third componen~ comprises pantethine or cysteamine or mixtures thereof.

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.4_ Four particularly preferred compositions of the present invention comprise:
(1) a material having superoxide dismutase activity (most preferably, superoxide dismutas~), mannitol, and cysteamine;

(2) a material having superoxide dismutase activity (most preferably, superoxide dismutase?, mannitol and pantethine;

(3) a~corbic acid, mannitol, and pantethine; a~d

(4) ascorbic acid, ma~nltol, and cysteamine.
The three compo~ents of the compo~ition of our in~ention referred to above are preferably applied to the hair in the form of a mixture with other con-stituents for treating the halr. For e~ample, thecomposition of the invention may be in the form of a shampoo, a hair conditioner or a hair grooming aid.
The three components cGmprising our invention prefer-ably constltute about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the compositi~n that is applied to the hair, the remainder comprising a carrier (which may include fragrance), active ingredients ~or treating the hair or both.
The composition of the present invention diminishes, to a substantial extent, damage to the hair caused by ultravlolet light. The composition of the present invention also reverses t to at least some extent, damage to the hair that~may have already been caused by ultraviolet light.
Detailed_Description Of The Invention Generally, the ingredients used in the composition of this invention should be suitable for cosmetic use and should be compatible when used together in a particular composition.
A number of commercially available materials having superoxide dismutase activi~y may be used in the I?resent invention. Supero~ide dismutase having ~ activity o~ 3000 uni~s per mg of pro~ein is avail~
able from Sigma Chemical Company. Another suitable mat~rial is Gly ::ogen L~* a liv r glycogen extract having a superoxide dismutase activity e~ual to or s~reater than 5000 u:nits per mg of protein that is marketed by CenterChem, Inc. Superoxide dismutase products are also marketed by Secol Inc.
One alternative to superoxide dismutase as the first compone~t of our invention is Cytochrome C*
Cytochrome C ( greater than 90~ purity by weight ) is available fro~n Sigs~a Chemical Company.
With respect to ~e seco~d component o~ our i~vention, catalase (activity greater than 2000 units pex mg of protein~ and mannitol are availa}~le from . Sigma Chemical Company.
~ number of commercially available materials may be u~ed as the third component of our composition.
In particular, cysteamine, pantethine, thioctoic acid and o~i~ized glutathione are available from Sigma Chemical Cornpany and panthethine palmitate is available from Daiichi Pure Chemical Company.
Preerred compo~itions of the present inven-tion compxise ~out 0~1 to about 10 par~s by weigh1;
of the fir~t component, about 0.02 ~o about 1 part by weight of the second component, about 0.01 to about 1 part by weight of the third component, and rom 0 to about 99.87 parts by weight of a cosmeti cally acreptable carrier.
In particularly preferred embodim~nts, the composition of the present invention cornprises about O . 5 to about 10 parts by weight of the first component, about 0~1 to about 1 part by weight of ~he se::ond component, about 0.05 to about 1 part by weight of 3 5 the third component, and up to about 98 . 3 parts by weight of a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
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The compositions of the present invention may be applied to the hair once a day, or more or less often ~han once a day. Factors such as length of time spent outdoors, season of the year, condition of the hair, etc., will determine how frequently the compositions of the presen-t invention mos-t desirably are applied to the hair.
The following non-limiting Examples illus-trate variou~-compositions of the present invention.

ExAMæL~s Exam~le 1 SH~MPOO
Parts By Welght

5 Water 52.5 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 40.0 Cocamide DE~ 3.0 Glycogen LR 0.5 Mannitol 3.0 10 Cysteamine 1.O

The above ingredients were mixed together al: 60C and the pH was adjusted to 5.5 with NaO~ and HCl. Mixing was continued until a uniform thickness was ob~ained.
Example 2 HAIR CONDITIONER EMnLSION
Phase A Parts By Weigh~
Glyceryl ~earate 5.0 Mineral oil 4.0 Quat~xnium-33 ~Lanoquat 50 from Emery Industries, Inc.~ 3.0 Polyethylen~ glycol 30-Castor Oil (C~oda, Inc.~ 2.5 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine lactate 2.5 Isopropyl myristate 1. 5 Cetearyl palmitate 0.8 Phase B Parts By Wei~ht 30 Hydrolyzed animal protein 1.8 Glycogen LR 0.5 Mannitol 2.0 Pantet~ine 1.0 Magnesium aluminum silicate 1. 0 Deionized Water 74.2 Phenoxyethanol (preservative ) O . 7 " ;:" : ' . .. .

7~ ~5 Phase A was prepared by mixing its components ~ogether and ~hen hea~ing the mixture at 75 un~il all ~he mixture was a liquid. Phase B was prepared by mixing its components together. Phase B was then S added to Phase A and mixed at about 60C. Mi~ing was continued until satisfactory emulsification was achieved.

~AIR STYLING GEL
Part~ By Welght Carbopol 940 0.2 Glycogen LR 0.5 Mannitol 3.0 Pantethine 0.1 15 Cys~eamine 1.0 Water 96.2 The Carbopol 940*(a thickening agent supplied by B. F. Goodrich Co.) was dissolved in ~he water, wlth mixing.. The other ingredients were then added.
The p~ of the mixture was monitored while adding NaOH dropwise until a p~ of 7.0 was reached. Mixing was continued until the gel was homogeneous.

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g Example 4 HAIR CONDITIONER
Parts By Weight Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium 2.0 chloride (20% by weight solution in water) Polyquaternium 11 2.0 (20% by weight solution in water)' (G.A.F., Inc.) 10 Isostearyl alcohol ' 1.0 Fragrance 0.3 SDA-40 Alcohol (denatured ethanol) 40.0 (Steppan Chemical Company) Water 49.1 15 Isoceteth 20 (ICI Americas) 1.0 Glycogen LR o.5 Mannitol 3.0 Cysteamine HCL 0.5 Pantethine 0.5 20 Simethicone (Dow Corning, Inc.) 0.1 The stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, polyquaternium 11, isostearyl alcohol, and 'fragrance were added to the SDA-40 alcohol, with mixing, until the mixture was homogeneous, to form mixture A.
The isoceteth 20 was melted at 50C and then added to water, with mixing, to form mixture B.
Mixing was continued until the mixture was homogen-eous. Mixture B was then added to mixture A.
Glycogen LR, mannitol, cysteamine HC1 and pantethine were then added, one at a time, with mixing, to the combination of mixtures A and B.
Mixing was continued'~ntil the mixture was homo-geneous. The simethicone was then added and mixing was continued until'the mixture was homogeneous.
The mixture was then used to fill a spray container. The container was then pressurized with isobutane, using 60 parts by weight of isobutane to 40 parts by weight of the aforementioned mixture.

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If desired, rather than using a pressurized container, as described in the preceding paragraph, the ~air conditioner of this Ex~mple may be poured from a bottle into the hand and then applied to the hair by hand. Alternatively, it may be applied with a pump spray.

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Claims

CLAIMS:

1. A composition for protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light, said composition comprising:
(a) an effective amount of a first component selected from the group consisting of a material having superoxide dismutase activity, ascorbic acid, Cytochrome C, mixtures of nicotinamide dehydrogenase and lactate dehydrogenase, uric acid, uric acid salts, and mixtures thereof;
(b) an effective amount of a second component selected from the group consisting of mannitol, catalase, and mixtures thereof;
(c) an effective amount of a third component selected from the group consisting of a disulfide, a thiol, and mixtures thereof, said disulfide and said thiol each having a molecular weight of at least about 100; and (d) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the first component is selected from the group consisting of a material having superoxide dismutase activity, ascorbic acid, Cytochrome C, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the second component is mannitol.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the third component is selected from the group consisting of pantethine, cysteamine, pantethine palmitate, thioctoic acid, oxidized glutathione, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the third component is selected from the group consisting of pantethine, cysteamine, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition of claim 1, comprising about 0.1 to about 10 parts by weight of the first component, about 0.02 to about 1 part by weight of the second component, about 0.01 to about 1 part by weight of the third component, and up to about 99.87 parts by weight of the cosmetically acceptable carrier.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the first component is selected from the group consisting of a material having superoxide dismutase activity, ascorbic acid, Cytochrome C, and mixtures thereof, the second component is mannitol, and the third component is selected from the group consisting of pantethine, cysteamine, pantethine palmitate, thioctoic acid, oxidized glutathione, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition of claim 6 wherein the composition comprises about 0.1 to about 5 parts by weight of the first component.

9. The composition of claim 7, wherein said first component is a material having superoxide dismutase activity and said third component is pantethine.

10. The composition of claim 7, wherein said first component is a material having superoxide dismutase activity and said third component is cysteamine.

11. The composition of claim 7, wherein said first component is ascorbic acid and said third component is pantethine.

12. The composition of claim 7, wherein said first component is ascorbic acid and said third component is cysteamine.

13. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of the com-position of claim 1.

14. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light comprising applying to-the hair an effective amount of the com-position of claim 6.

15. A method of protecting hair from damage caused-by exposure to ultraviolet light com-prising applying to the hair an effective amount of the composition of claim 70

16. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light com-prising applying to the hair an effective amount of the composition of claim 8.

17. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of the com-position of claim 9.

18. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of the com-position of claim 10.

19. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of the com-position of claim 11.

20. A method of protecting hair from damage caused by exposure to ultraviolet light comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of the com-position of claim 12.