CA1300511C - Cosmetic composition containing a hair growth promoter - Google Patents

Abstract

ABSTRACT

A composition suitable for topical application to mammalian skin or hair, comprises an amount of the cell-free supernatant from a culture of dermal papilla fibroblasts which is sufficient to increase hair growth in the rat, when applied thereto, by at least 10% more than that obtainable using a control composition from which the said cell-free supernatant has been omitted.

Description

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COSMETIC COMPOSITION

: FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention relates to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition for topical application to mammalian skin, the composition containing a hair growth promoter which is capable of promoting terminal hair growth, especially on the human scalp.

The Hair Bulb The hair bulb is a compact, elongate structure, located in the dermis, composed of three main cellular groups:

13~5~L
_ ~ _ J 3050 (i) a compact group of fibroblasts including a capillary system known as the dermal papilla;

(ii) surrounding epithelial ~issue, a component of which proliferates and differentiates to give rise to the mature hair shaft, and (iii) a group of fibroblasts present around the outside of the bulb in the connective tissue sheath.
It is well recognised that the dermal papilla is essential for hair growth [Oliver R F (1970~ J Embryol Exp Morphol 23, 219-236] and that, consequently, it is also essential for the proliferation of the adjacent epithelial cells which give rise to hair.

The Hair Growth Cycle It should be explained that in most mammals, hair does not grow continuously, but undergoes a cycle of activity involving alternate periods of growth and rest.
The hair growth cycle can be divided into three main stages, namely:

(i) the growth phase known as anagen, during which the hair follicle penetrates deep into the dermis with the cells of the bulb dividing rapidly and differentiating to form the ~air, (ii) the transitional stage known as catagen, which is heralded by the cessation of mitosis, and during which the follicle regresses upwards through the dermis and hair growth ceases, (iii) the resting stage known as telogen, in which the regressed ~ollicle contains a small ~3~5~
_ 3 _ J 3050 secondary germ with an underlying ball of tightly packed dermal papilla cells.

The initiation of a new anagen phase is revealed by rapid proliferation of epithelial cells in the germ, expansion of the dermal papilla and elaboration of basement membrane components. The hair cycle is then repeated many times until t as a consequence of the onset of male pattern baldness, most of the hair follicles spend an increasing proportion of their time in the telogen stage, and the hairs produced become finer, shorter, and less visible; this is known as terminal to vellus transformation.

PRIOR AR_ Alleged Baldness Cures Although there have been many claims in the scientific literature to the promotion or maintenance of hair growth, by the topical application of hair tonics and the like, with the possible exception of minoxidil, none has ever proved to be effective or to be sufficiently free from disadvantageous clinical side effects, whether administered topically, orally or systemically, to warrant commercial exploitation as an ethical pharmaceutical, proprietary medicine, or as a cosm~tic product. Possibly, the only means which has met with partial success for growing hair on the bald or balding human head is transplantation of hair to the bald areas. This is, however, a painful operation and is not always successful.
Furthermore, it is immediately apparent to the casual observer that the subject has received a hair transplant and it may take many months or even years before hair ~3~
_ 4 _ J 3050 regrowth, following this operation, assumes an appearance which resembles that of naturally growing hair.

Amcng the many hair regrowth studies that have been reported in the literature, there is included the work of Bazzano as described in PCT International Publication No.
WO 85/04577. This publication describes a composition which is useful for increasing the rate~ of hair growth on mammalian skin, prolonging the anagen phase of the hair growth cycle and for treating various types of alopecias.
The composition in ~uestion contains a pyrimidine carbamate.

It has also been reported in US patent no. 4 139 619 to Chidsey assigned to the Upjohn Company, that a topical composition comprising minoxidil as the free base or acid addition salt thereof~ or certain specified related iminopyrimidines, is useful in stimulating the conversion of vellus hair to growth as terminal hair, as well as increasing the rate of growth of terminal hair.

In spite of the apparent stimulation of hair growth or regrowth in a small percentage of patients reported independently by Bazzano and Chidsey, there is some concern that systemic side-effects can result, ~ particularly following topical application of minoxidil.
; Thus it is generally recognised in the medical lite~ature that the side effects of orally administered minoxidil are very serious, and include fluid retentiont tachycardia, dyspnea, gynecomastia, fatigue, nausea and cardio~oxicity.

It has also been proposed in DE-A-3 431 266 (Birzer) to administer externally or internally hair bulb cells ~ 5 - J 3050 with the papilla from slaughtered animals in order to stimulate growth and genesis of hair and to counteract hair loss and hair greying. The cells are obtained from the hide of animals and can be applied internally by injection or as tablets or drops, and externally as shampoos, creams and soaps.

The isolation of dermal papillae from human hair follicles has been reported by Messenger, A.G., British Journal of Dermatology (1984), 110, 685-689. Messenger has established primary cell cultures from the papilla explants in a nutrient medium.

BACKGROUND TO THE INVENTION

Experience has shown that it is difficult to harvest a substantial quantity of dermal papilla cells, either by dissection or by the enzymic treatment of animal hides advocated by Birzer [supra]. Furthermore, it has been discovered that the dermal papilla cells obtained from animals are no~ effective in promoting hair growth in the human subject, and that ideally, human dermal papilla cells should be employed for this purpose. Accordingly, cells derived from one host (e.g. cow) are immunologically distinct from any other species (e.g. man), and therefore, it is not surprising that upon injection, they are rejected by the new host's immune system and destroyed.

Of course, if it is desired to promote hair growth in other mammals using animal cells, then ideally dermal papilla cells derived from the corresponding species of mammal should be employed.

~aving regard to the fact that man has sought ways and means for promoting hair growth or regrow*h in the ~3~3~

bald or balding human subject since time immemorial, without discovering a totally safe, feasible and satisfactory treatment for promoting hair growth, it is all ~he more surprising that a means has now been discovered for generating a hair growth promoter from mammalian dermal papilla cells.

Essentially, we have been able to isolate h~ir follicles from skin and culture dermal papilla cells derived therefrom in a nutrient medium to obtain enhanced numbers of cells. Culture supernatants, rich in hair growth promoter, have been harvested from cultured human dermal papilla cells, and after concentration, applied topically to bald or balding human scalps in order to promote hair growth or regrowth.

DEFINITION OF THE INVENTION

Accordingly, the invention provides a composition suitable for topical application to mammalian skin or hair, comprising an amount of the cell-free supernatant from a culture of dermal papilla fibxoblasts which is sufficient to increase hair growth in the rat, when applied thereto, by at least 104 more than that obtainable using a control composition from which the said cell-free supernatant has been omitted.

More particularly, the invention provides a composition suitable for topical application to mammalian skin or hair comprising an amount vf a hair growth promoter, or active fragments therevf, sufficient to increase hair growth, in the rat, when applied thereto, by at least 10% more than that obtainable using a control composition from which said hair growth promoter has been : omitted; and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle;

~3~ S~l _ 7 _ J 3050 the hair growth promoter having been obtained from a cell-free supernatant of cultured dermal papilla fibroblasts, the hair growth promoter being proteinaceous, and being further characterised by:

la) having an apparent molecular weight of at least 500D; and (b) possessing the ability to initiate DNA synthesis in a culture of serum starved NIH 3T3 cells.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
The Supernatant from Culture of Dermal Papilla Fibroblasts The composition according to the invention comprises a cell-free supernatant obtained from the culture of dermal papilla fibroblasts in an amount which is sufficient to increase hair growth in the rat, when applied thereto, usually topically, by at least 10~ more than that obtainable using a control composition from which said cell-free supernatant has been omitted.

Preferably, the cell-free culture supernatant is concentrated, for example by ultra filtration at least 50 times, most preferably at least 100 times.

The procedure for culture of dermal papilla fibroblasts and isolation of the culture supernatant and its concentration is described more fully l~er in this specification.

The cell-ree supernatant has been shown to contain a proteinaceou~ hair growth promoter.

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The Hair Growth Promoter .
The composition according to the invention more particularly comprises a proteinaceous hair growth promoter which is further characterised by:

~ a) having a molecular weight of at least 500D; and ~ b1 possessing the abili~y to initiate DNA synthesis in a culture of serum-st~rved NIH 3T3 cells, that is, resting cells maintained in a nutrient medium containing O.5% by volume of serum.

DNA synthesis can be determined by measuring the uptake of tritiated thymidine by the method as hereinafter described.

The hair growth promoter can be obtained by culturing dermal papilla fibroblasts in nutrient medium followed by separation of the supernatant liquid from such cultures, centrifuging the supernatant to remove cells and cell debris t and concentrating and dialysing the supernatant to remove substances having an apparent molecular weight of < 500D, preferably < 2000D.
The cell free concentrate so obtained contains the hair growth promoter having an apparent molecular weight of at least 500D, preferably from 500D to 1,OOO,OOOD, which is then incorporated in the composition according to the invention together with a suitable vehicle.
Alternatively, the cell free concentrate after dialysis can be dried, preferably by freeze drying prior to incorporation in the compositîon according to the invention.

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_ g _ J 3050 Although the hair growth promoter generally has an appaxent molecular weight of > 500D, it is believed that certain fragments derived from the hair growth promoter can also show activity in promoting hair growth or r~growth.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cell-free dermal papilla fibroblast culture supernatant is concentrated about one hundred times to provide a concentrate, containing the hair growth promoter, having a protein level of not greater than lOmg/ml, usually from 2 to 3 mg/ml.

The amount of this hair growth promoter to be incorporated with a suitable vehicle into compositions for topical use can vary widely, but in general, an amount expressed as protein of from 0.00001 to 99%, preferably from 0.001 to 90~ by weight of the composition will provide an adequate dose of the hair growth promoter to the skin following topical application.

The Vehicle The composition according to the invention also comprises a solid, semi-solid or liquid cosmetically and/
or physiologically acceptable vehicle, to enable the hair growth factor substance to be conveyed to the skin at an appropriate dilution. The nature of the vehicle will depend upon the method chosen for topical administration of the composition. The vehicle can itself be inert or it can possess physiological or pharmaceutical benefits of its own.

The selection of a vehicle for this purpose presents a wide range of possibilities depending on the required ~L30t.~S~

product form of the composition. Suitable vehicles can be classified as described hereinafter.

It should be explained that vehicles are substances which can act as diluents, dispersants, or solvents for the hair growth promoter which therefore ensure that it can be applied to and distributed evenly over the hair and/or scalp at an appropriate consentration~ The vehicle is preferably one which can aid penetration of the hair growth promoter into the skin to reach the immediate environment of the hair follicle. Compositions according to this invention can include water as a vehicle, and/or at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle other than water, including the concentrated dialysed culture supernatant, which will normally be aqueous in nature, obtained by the concentration step referred to earlier in this specification.

Vehicles other than water that can be used in compositions according to the invention can include solids or liquids such as emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. Examples of each of these types of vehicles, which can be used singly or as mixtures of one or more vehicles, are as follows:
Emollients, such as stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, glyceryl monostearate, propane-1~2-diol, butane-1,3-diol, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, ispropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, dimethylpolysiloxane, di-n-butyl sebacate~
isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate; butyl stearate, polythylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, sesame oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum, ~3~S~
~ J 3050 mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate;

Propellants, such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, dichlorotetrafluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, trichlorotrifluoroethane, propane, butane, isobutane, dimet:hyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide;
Solvents, such as ethyl alcohol, methylene chloride, isopropanol, castQr oil, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, dimethyl sulphoxide, dimethyl formamide, tetrahydrofuran;

Humectants, such as glycerin, sorbitol, sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, soluble collagen, dibutyl phthalate, gelatin;
Powders, such as chalk, talc, fullers earth, kaolin, starch, gums, colloidal silicon dioxide, sodium polyacrylate, tetra alkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminium silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminium silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboc~methyl cellulose, ethylene glycol monostearate.

The amount of vehicle in the composition, including water if present, should preferably be suficient to carry at least a portion of a selected hair growth factor substance to the skin in an amount which is which is sufficien$ effectively to enhance hair growth~ The amount of the vehicle can comprise the balance of the composition, particularly where little or no other ingredients are present in the composition. Accordingly, the vehicle or vehicles can comprise from 1 to 99.g999~, preferably from 50 to 99.5~ and ideally from 90 to 99~ by weight of the compositionsO

Perfume The composition according to the invention can also optionally comprise a perfume in an amount sufficient to make the composition acceptable to the consumer and pleasant to use. Usually, ~he perfume will form from 0.01 to 10~ by weight of the composition.

Activity Enhancer The composition according to the invention can also optionally comprise an activity enhancer which can be chosen from a wide variety of molecules capable of functioning in different ways to enhance the benefit of the hair growth promoter. Particular classes of activity enhancers include other hair growth stimulants, protein stabilising agents and penetration enhancers, whose presence can further improve the delivery of the hair growth promoter through the stratum corneum to the immediate environment of the hair follicle.

~i) Other Hair Growth Stimulants Examples of other substances whieh themselves possess the ability to stimulate or increase the rate of terminal hair growth include, for example;

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Benzalkonium chloride Benzethonium chloride Phenol Estradiol Diphenhydramine hydrocholoride Chlorpheniramine maleate Chlorophyllin derivatives Cholesterol Salicylic acid Cystine Red pepper tincture Benzyl nicotinate dl-Menthol Peppermint oil Calcium pantothenate Panthenol Castor oil Hinokitiol Prednisolone Resorcinol Further substances which themselves possess the ability to increase the rate of terminal hair growth include:
~-1,4 esterified disaccharides described by Choay S.A. in EP-A-O 064 012, having the structure:

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- ].4 - J.3050 o~

S ~ ~ O ~ oQ

z ott where Z represents a functional nitrogen group, such as an azide or a group having the structure -NHB, in which B represents -H or a functional : group such as acetyl or sulphate as a salt with an organic or mineral cation;
M represents -H or SO3Ml, where M1 is an organic or metallic cation, particularly an alkali metal; or an acetyl group;

R represents a Cl to C4 alkyl radical, especially methyl; or an aryl radical;

; A represents a functional ~roup such as an acid ~ or -COOR1,-where R1 represents -H or a C1 to C4 ; 25 alkyl radical, especially methyl; or a metal, especially an alkali metal;
' .~ esterified oligosaccharides as described by Unilever in EP-A-O 211 610 including at least one esterified ; disaccharide unit consisting of a uronic acid residue having the structure:
~0 H.O~ H.oR"

OR

~3~S~:~
- 15 - J.3050 and a hexosamine residue having the structure:
~0 H.O Q" ~ . O R"

~ COO~"
where ~' is C3 to C10 alkyl or -CH(CH2)nCH3 R" is -~, C1 to ~4 alkyl, -CO(C~2~mCH3,-S03M, R"' is -H, -CO(CH2)mCH3, or -S03M, M is -H, or a metallic or organic cation n is O or an integer of fro~ 1 to 7, and m is O or the integer l or 2;

the groups designated R" being the same or different, one R" group from each pyranose ring structure being linked by a glycosidic linkage haviny the configuration ~ -1,3, ~ -1,4, ~ -1,3 or ~ -1,4; and the -COOR', -CH20R" and -OR" groups being of either configuration with respect to the pyranose rings;

Minoxidil and its derivatives, as described by the Upjohn Co, in GB 1 167 735, Minoxidil glucuronide, as described by Uni ~er in Minoxidil sulphates, as described by the Upjohn Co., in WO 86/04231.

(ii) Protein Stabilising Agents As has been stated earlier, the hair growth promoter is proteinaceous, and therefore its benefi~ in promo ing hair growth can be maintained or improved by including a protein stabilising agent in the composition according to : 35 the invention. As an example of this effect, it is to be : noted that the skin contains natural proteases which might ~L3~

at least partially degrade the hair growth promoter.
Therefore, the presence of protein stabilising agent such as a protease inhibitor or a secondary protein for which with the hair growth promoter, the natural skin proteases will compete, can protect the hair growth promoter until it reaches the immediate environment of the hair bulb.

Examples of protein stabilising agent accordingly include:-10Glycerol Ethylemediaminetetraacetic acid Cysteine o~2-Macroglobulin Serum, and other proteinase inhibitors.

(iii) Penetration Enhancers As has been stated earlier, the presence of a penetration enhancer can potentiate the benefit of the hair growth promoter by improving its delivery through the stratum corneum to its site of action in the immediate environment of the hair follicle close to the dermal papilla.

The penetration enhancer can accordingly function in a variety of ways. It can for example, improve the distribution of the hair growth promoter on the skin surface or, it can increase its partition into the skin from the composition when applied topically, so aiding its passage to its site of action. Other mechanisms enhancing the benefit of the hair growth promoter may also be involved.

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Examples of penetration enhancers accordingly include : certain non-electrolytes, such as:
2-methyl propan-2-ol Propan-2-ol Ethyl-2-hydroxypropanoate Hexan 2,5-diol POE(2) ethyl ether Dil2-hydroxypropyl) ether Pentan-2,4-diol Acetone POE(2) methyl ether 2-hydroxypropionic acid Propan-l-ol 1,4 Dioxane Tetrahydrofuran Butan-1,4-diol Other penetration enhancers whose presence in the composition according to the invention can further improve the delivery through the stratum corneum include certain esters, such as:-Propylene glycol dipelargonate Polyoxypropylene 15 stearyl ether Octyl alcoholPOE ester of oleyl alcohol Oleyl alcohol Lauryl alcohol Dioctyl adipa~e Dicapryl adipate Diisopropyl adipate Diisopropyl sebacate Dibutyl sebacate Diethyl sebacate : 35 Dimethyl sebacate ~3~

Dioctyl sebacate Dibenzyl sebacate Dibutyl suberate Dioctyl azelate S Dibutyl azelate Dimethyl azelate Dibutyl succinate Dibutyl phthalate Didecyl ph~halate Ethyl myristate Butyl myristate Isopropyl palmitate Ethyl laurate Decyl oleate 2-ethyl-hexyl pelargonate Isopropyl isostearate Butyllaurate Benzyl benzoate ; Butyl benzoate Hexyl laurate Ethyl caprate Ethyl caprylate Ethyl caproate ~utyl stearate Benzyl salicylate, and Ethyl salicylate Yet further penetration enhancers include esterC of pyroglutamic acid having the structure:-; 30 5~1 ~ 19 - J 3050 0 N p-0-R (lt R' S where R is Cl to C30 alkyl, or-CHCO()R"
and where R' and R" are the same or different and are each represented by H or the grouping:

3 u' ( 2OH)V~ (CH2)w~ (CH3cH2~x~ ~CH=CH) ]- ~2 where u is zero or 1 v is zero, or the integer 1 or 2, w is zero, or an integer of from 1 to 21 x is zero, or an integer of from 1 to 4, y is zero, or the integer 1 or 2, z is zero, or an integer of fxom 1 to 22, and u + v ~ w + x + y ~ z is an integer of from 1 to 22;

provided that when the subgrouping (CHGC~) is present, then the total number of carbon atoms in said grouping is from 10 to 22.

Examples of suitable esters of pyroglutamic acid where R in structure ~1) is Cl to C30 alkyl are:
pyroglutamic acid methyl ester pyroglutamic acid ethyl ester pyroglutamis acid n-propyl ester : pyroglutamic acid n-butyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-heptyl e~ter pyroglutamic acid n-octyl ester : pyroglutamic acid n-nonyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-decyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-undecyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-dodecyl ester ~3~

pyroglutamic acid n-tridecyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-tetradecyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-hexadecyl ester pyroglutamic acid n-octadecyl estex S pyroglutamic acid n-eicosyl ester pyroglutamic acid iso-propyl ester pyroglutamic acid 2-methylhexyl ester pyroglutamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester pyroglutamic acid 3,7-dimethyloctyl ester pyroglutamic acid 2-hexyldecyl ester pyroglutamic acid 2-octyldodecyl ester pyroglutamic acid 2,4,4-trimetyl-1-pentane ester pyroglutamic acid methyloctyl ester Particularly preferred esters of this group are those where R in structure ~1) is C1 to C14 alkyl, ~linear or branched), especially Cl to C6 (linear or branched).

Further examples of preferred e~ters of pyroglutamic acid, where R in structure ~1) is R~
-CHCOOR", are those where R' and/or R" having the structure shown for grouping (2), include straight and branched chain, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic groups having from l to 22 carbon atoms, such as the alkyl groups:

methyl ethyl propyl iso-propyl butyl iso-butyl n-valeryl iso-valeryI

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- 21 ~ J 3050 n-caproyl n-heptyl n-caprylyl n-capryl lauryl myristyl palmityl stearyl, and arachidyl.
and the C10_22 alkenyl groups:

linoleyl linolenyl ~-linolenyl arachidonyl, and columbinyl.

Further examples of the grouping (2) also include hydroxyalkyl groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as:

hydroxymethyl 2-hydroxyethyl 2-hydroxy-n-propyl 3-hydroxy-n-propyl 2-hydroxy n-butyl 3-hydroxy-n-butyl 4~hydroxy-n-butyl 5-hydroxy-n-valeryl 6-hydroxy-n-caproyl 2,3-dihy~roxy-n-propyl 2,3-dihydroxy n-butyl 12-hydroxystearylO

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It is to be understood that the above list is not exhaustive, there bei~g many other examples of alkyl or substituted alkyl groups expressed by the above generic grouping (2~.

Further specific examples of esterE; of pyroglutamic acid which are particularly suitecl to use as penetration enhancers are:

2-rpyroglutamoyloxy]-propionic acid methyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-acetate ethyl-2-~pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate ethyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-butyrate ethyl-2-~pyroglutamoyloxy]-iso-butyrate ethyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-valerate ethyl-2-Epyroglutamoyloxy]-n-caproate ethyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-heptylate ethyl-2-Epyroglutamoyloxy]-n-caprylate ethyl-2-~pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-pelargonate ethyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-3-hydroxybutyrate iso-propyl-2-Epyroglutamoyloxy~-n-propionate iso-propyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-caprylate n-propyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate n-propyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-caprylate stearyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate 12-hydroxystearyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate stearyl-2-~pyroglutamoyloxy~-n-stearate palmityl-2-rpyroglutamoyloxyl-n-propionate linoleyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate linoleyl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-caprylate lauryl-2-[pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-caprylate stearyl-:2-[pyroglutamoylvxy]-n-caprylate glyceryl mono~2-lpyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate) glyceryl mono(2-[pyroglutamoyloxy~-n-caprylate), and glyceryl di~2-~pyroglutamoyloxy]-n-propionate).

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It is to be understood that the above lists of specific examples of esters of pyroglutamic acid are not exhaustive, there being many other examples expressed by the generic structure of these esters.

: Further examples of penetration enhancers include:-Dimethyl sulphoxide N,N-Dimethyl acetamide N,N-Dimethyl formamide 2-Pyrrolidone 1-Methyl 2-pyrrolidone 5-Methyl-2-pyrrolidone 1,S-Dimethyl-2-pyrrolidone l-Ethyl-2-pyrrolidone Phosphine oxides Sugar esters Tetrahydrofurfural alcohol Urea Diethyl-m-toluamide, and l-Dodecylazacyloheptan-2-one Further examples of penetration enhancers include wetting agents, by which term is meant a surface active agent - which, when added to water, causes it to penetrate more easily into, or spread on the surface of another material, by reducing the surface tension of water at the water-air interface; ~The Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Eighth Edition 1971, pg 937].

By "surface active agent" is meant, any compound that reduces surface tension when dissolved ln water or water ~o~s~
~ 24 J 3050 solutions; [The Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Eighth Edition 1971, pg 840].

8y "surface tension", is meant the inward force of the liquid, due to the attraction of the molecules below the surface. This force varies from one liquid to another, that of water being high cvmpared with ~hat of alcohol, for example; [The Condensed Chemical Dictionary, Eighth Edition 1971 pg 841l.
The function of the wetting agent in the composition according to the invention is accordingly to enable the culture supernatant to be dispersed readily on the skin's surface or on the hair, and to facilitate its penetration into the skin to the reyion of the hair bulb and the associated dermal papilla cells.

The selection of a wetting agent for this purpose presents a wide range of possibilities known in the art.
Particularly preferred examples of wetting agents include the following surface active agents.

(i) Anionic surface active agents, such as metallic or alkanolamine salts of fatty acids for example sodium laurate and triethanolamine oleate;

alkyl benzene sulphones, for example triethanolamine dodecyl benzene sulphonate;

alkyl sulphates, for example sodium lauryl sulphate;

alkyl ether sulphates, for example sodium lauryl ether sulphate [2 to 8 EO];

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sulphosuccinates, for example sodium dioctyl sulphonsuccinate;

monoglyceride sulphates, for example sodium glyceryl monostrearate monosulphate;
isethionates, for example sodium isethionate;

methyl taurides, for example Igepon T;
acylsarcosinates, for example sodium myristyl sarcosinate;

acyl peptides, for example Maypons and Lamepons;
acyl lactylates, polyalkoxylated ether glycollates, for example trideceth-7 carboxylic acid;
phosphates, for example sodium dilauryl phosphate.

(ii) Cationic surface active agents, such as amine salts, for example sapamin hydrochloride;

quartenary ammonium salts, for example Quaternium 5, Quaternium 31 and Quaternium 18;

(iii) Amphoteric surface active agents, such as : imidazol compoundsj for example Miranol;

N-alkyl amino acids, such as sodium ; : cocaminopropionate and asparagine derivatives;
betaines, for example cocamidopropylebetaine ~L3(~

(iv) Nonionic surface active agents, such as fatty acid alkanolamides, for example oleic ethanolamide;

esters of polyalcohols, for example Span;
polyglycerol esters, for example that esterified with C12_18 fatty acids and one or serveral O~
groups;

polyal~koxylated derivatives, for example polyoxy:polyoxyethylene stearate;

etheræ, for example polyoxyethe lauryl ether;

ester ~ethersr for example Tween;

amine l~xides, for example coconut and dodecyl dimeth~rl amine oxides.

Mixtures of two or more of the above surface active agents can be em};~loyed as wetting agents in the ~omposition acco~rding to the invention.

The amount of activity enhancer, when employed in accordance with khe invention, will normally be from 0.1 to 50~, preferab~Ly from 0.5 to 25% and most preferably from 0O5 to 10~ by weight of the composition.

Other ingredient~
-The composition according to the invention can contain ingredierits other than those already mentioned, depending on the form of the intended product. It is, for example, possibl~ to include antiseptics, preservatives, antioxidants, emulsifiers, colouring agents and detergents.

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The composition according to the invention can also be employed as a vehicle for a wide variety of cosmetically or pharmaceutically active ingredients~
particularly ingredients which have some beneficial effect when applied to the skin other than the promotion of hair growth.

Process The invention also provides a process for the preparation of a composition suitable for topical application to the hair and/or scalp which comprises the step of concentrating the cell-free supernatant from cultured dermal papilla cells.
~5 Product Form The compositions of the invention can be formulated as liguids, for exa~mple as a lotion, shampoo, conditioner or milk for use in Iconjunction with an applicator such as a roll-ball applicator, or a spray devic~ such as an aerosol can containing p.ropellant~ or a container fitted with a pump to di~pense the liquid pxoduct. Alternatively, the compositions o~ the invention can be solid or semi-solid, for example sticks, creams or gels, for use in conjuncti.on with a suitable applicator or simply a tube, bottle or lidder jar, or a~s a liquid-impregnated fabric, such as a : tissue wipe.

The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a composition as herein de~ined.

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Hair Growth The invention also provides for the use of the concentrated cell-free supernatant obta.ined from cultured dermal papilla c~lls, preferably hair growth promoter derived therefrom, in the topical treatment of baldness.

The compositions according to the invention are primarily intended for topical application to the scalp of the human subject, to increase hair growth particularly where the head i.s already bald or balding. The compositions can also be applied profilactically to the hair and to the scalp to reduce or prevent the onset of baldness.

The amount of the composition and the frequency of application to the hair and/or scalp can vary widely, depending on personal needs, but it is suggested as an example that top:Lcal application of from 1 to 5g daily containing from 0.000001 to lg of the hair growth promoter over the period of at least six months will in most cases result in an improvement in hair growth.

: 25 THE BIOSYNTHESIS AND ISOLATION OF THE HAIR
_ _____ GROWTH PROMOTER

The invention also provides a process for the preparation of a hair growth promoter, which comprises the steps of:

[i) inloculating a nutrient medium with dermal paipilla fibroblasts, 35 (ii) in.cubating with the medium at a temperature of from 15~ to 45, ~3~

(iii) separating the supernatant from the culture, tiv) concentrating the cell-free supernatant at least 50 times, the concentrate so obtained containing a proteinaceous hair growth promoter which is characterised by:

(a) having an apparent molecular weight of at least 500D; and : (b) possessing the ability to initiate DNA
synthesis of serum-starved NIH 3T3 cells~

A prefexred method for the biosynthesis and subsequent isola1:ion of the hair growth promoter can be carried out as fc)llows:
1. Dissection oi dermal papillae from hair follicles and culture c~f human dermal papilla cells Dexmal papillae were isolated by micrQdissection from hair follicles.

The isolated~ papillae were maintained in a medium containing 15% by volume fetal calf serum (FCS), the cells and medium being kept at 37C in an atmosphere of 5%
C0~/95% air, in c~rder to maintain a suitable pH value of from 6.5 to 7.5.

The medium e!mployed was Dulbeccos' modified Eagles medium ~DMEM) suFIplemented with L-glutamine, 15% by volume FCS, as well as pienicillin and streptomycin to reduce the ; risk of bacterial contamination.

~3~C~5~:~
_ 30 _ J 3050 Following attachment of the dermal papillae to the culture vessel, cells migrating from dissected papillae were allowed to grow to confluence in the above nutrient medium before being Ipassaged' into fresh medi~m to allow expansio~ of cell numbers. Passaging was achieved by washing the cell;s in phosphate buffered saline (PBS), addition of warmed trypsin/EDTA solution (37C3 for about 5 minutes, detac]~ment of rounded cells and Isplitting' the harvested cells into new culture vessels containing medium with fresh serum. In the presence of serum, most cells reattach and spread rapidly on the surfaces of the culture vessels. Nutrient medium containing serum was changed routinely twice per week, and by this means dermal papilla fibroblasts were grown continously, so providing a continous supply of cells and culture supernatant containing the hair growth promoter.

2. Collection oE culture supernatant After a period of at least 3 days, the culture supernatant was decanted from the calls and centrifuged to remove floating cells and cell debris, and then concentrated and dialysed against isotonic ~aline using, for example, an ~micon ultra-filtration device having a 500D, 2000D or 5000D (D = Dalton) molecular weight cut ; off. Fresh medil~m was added to the dermal papilla cells so that with timl3 further culture supernatant could be obtained.

The concentrated, dialysed ~ulture supernatant containing the hair growth promoter can then be used as such in preparinl~ the composition according to the invention, or it can be dried, for example, by freeze drying be~ore di~ipersing in the vehicle.

~3~
- ~1 - J 3050 3. Assay of culture supernatant from human dermal papilla fibroblasts In order to assay the molecules macle by dermal papilla fibroblasts and exported into the medium for their ability to promote hair growth, it is necessary to maintain the cells in serum-free medium ~SFM). This is achieved by washing the cells twice with PBS and placing them in SF~ for 24 hours. This medium is then discarded as it contains t;races of serum and replaced with fresh SFM. After three days, ~his medium is poured off and is centrifuged, con,-entrated and dialysed as described above.

There are several biological assays which an be used to assess potential hair growth activity present in the concentrated senLm-free culture supernatant. A preferred assay is a mitoglsnisis assay, which assesses the ability of the concentrated culture supernatant to stimulate DNA
synthesis in a test cell line (NIH-3T3).
According to this assay, test cells are rendered quiescent in low serum medium tDMEM + L-glutamine + O.S to 0.7 FCS) for 24 lo 48 hours, and the ability of stimulants, (that is in this case concentrated culture supernatant) to :Lncrease the uptake of tritiated thymidine into DNA Materia:L over a 24 hour period, is assessed.

4. Interpretation of results _ .

The concentr.ated culture supernatant sho~s an activity in term~; of its ability to initiate DNA
synethesis as mentioned by the uptake of tritiated thymidine into D2~A~ otherwise known as mitogenic activity.
As the dermal papilla cells in vivo regulate the mitogenic activity of epithelial cells in the hair bulb, this activity of the c~oncentrate is therefore in part related ~L3~S.~

to its ability t:o stimulate hair growth on application to skin.

The hair growth promoter responsible for this DNA
synthesis in NIEI-3T3 cells has been shown to have a molecular weight of at least 5QOD. Using the NIH-3T3 cells DNA synthe!sis assay the concentrated cell culture supernatant has the following properties. It is unstable to heating in aqueous solution for 1 minute at lOO~C but stable ~o heating for ten minutes at 60C. The mitogenic activity is promloted in the presence of insulin or insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGFl), but not by the presence of epidermal growth factor (EGF). The activity is partially stable to lowering of the pH in O.lM acetic lS acld or 0.1~ trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and readjustment of this pH to 7.0, and is partially stable to the process of freeze drying or to repeated freeze-thaw cycles of the concentrated cell culture supernatant. Fractionation studies show that the cell culture supernatant contains a number of separate components able to promote DNA
synthesis in NIH-3T3 cells.

EVALUATION OF EF.FICACY OF HAIR GROWTH STIMULANTS_ USING
THE RAT MODEL
(i) Measurement l~f hair growth using the rat model The ef fect of compounds on hair growth was assessed using male rats as an animal model as follows. In each of the comparisons :reported below, 10 rats were used.

A small patch of normal skin (4cm x 4cm) on the upper back of each rat was clipped at the start and a hair growth stimulant composition ~or a control) applied twice daily topically or continuously subcutaneously to the clipped area. Hair was clipped from the area of the patch ~3~S~

twice weekly, collected and weighed at each time point, and cumulative hair weight calculated. From these data, it was possible to estimate the effect of a hair growth stimulant as a test compound on the amount and duration of hair growth during the experiment. A positive response, ie. an increase of at least 10~ by weight of hair, compared with a control indicates the potential of the test substance to prevent hair loss and/or reverse baldness in human subjects.
(ii) Validation of rat model for hair growth using Minoxidil The rat model was validated by showing that topical application of a known promoter of human hair regrowth, 15 namely 2~ (w/v) minoxidil in a vehicle of 70% ethanol, 20 water and 10% propylene glycol, caused an increase of 55%
in hair growth a;s shown below in Table 1:

Table l Treatment Mean Cumulative Hair weight (mg) after 45 days 25 2% minoxidil 599.2 Vehicle (control~l 387.3 In vivo assay of rat cell~free concentrated culture supernatant A hair growkh promoter concentrate was prepared as described hereinbefore. This concentrate was derived from cultured rat dermal papilla fibroblasts ~passages l and 2), the cell-free! supernatant being concentrated ~L3~
_ 34 _ J 3050 approximately 100 times and dialysed into phosphate buffered saline using a protein filter having a molecular weight cut off approximately 2000 Daltons. In these experiments, rat ~as opposed to human) culture supernatant was used to avoid potential problems due to species variation.

In the test experiment, the cell-free supernatant concentrate was assayed in an in vivo rat hair growth model. It was delivered continuously (about 0.5 microlitres per hour) to the animal over a three week period using a mini osmotic pump (model 2002) commercially available from Alza, USA. In setting up the experiment, a 4 x 4cm square area of skin was clipped free of hair on the upper back of male rats just below the shoulders. The mini osmotic pumps were assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions and implanted singly subcutaneously just behind the posterior edge of the clipped site. A short 1.3cm canular was attached to the pump so that the contents of the pump could be delivered accurately under the clipped site. It was considered that subcutaneous delivery of the concentrate was equivalent in its effect on hair growth to topical application of it, while simplifying accurate dosing to the site of application.

The effect of the concentrated culture supernatant was assessed by comparing the cumulative weight of hair produced in the test a~d control samples.
In control experiments, the pumps were filled with PBS. A
total of 240 microlitres [approximately~ of sample was delivered to each rat. Ten animals were used for the control sample, and ten for the test sample, each animal being 65 days old at ~he beginning of the experiment, at ~3~

which point the hair follicles are in anagen midway through the G3 growth phase.

CUMULATIVE HAIR GROWT~ (mg) TEST MINUS ~ INCREASE
DAYS TEST MEANS CONTROL MEANS CONTROL _ OVER CONTROL

~ 39.60 35.80 3.8 10.6 10 6 86.40 61.70 24.7 40.0 9 127.10 104.30 22.8 21.9 13 166.90 146.80 20.1 13.7 16 207.00 175.00 32.0 18.3 264.00 212.30 52.1 24.5 The effect of the cell-free supernatant concentrate was to stimulate an increase in hair growth as measured by the weight of hair produced.

~ 3~ - J 3050 EXAMPLES

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
In each case, the hair growth promoter ingredient is a culture supernatant which has been concentrated and dialysed, as described hereinl and contains 3mg/ml protein.

This Example illustrates a lotion according to the invention which is suitable for topical application to the scalp in order to promote hair growth.

The lotion has the following formulation:
~ w!w Hair growth promoter water 97 preservative 2 perfume q.s.
Example 2 This Example illustrates a hair tonic which is suitable for application to hair or scalp. 5 The hair tonic has the following formulation:
~ w/w Hair growth promoter 0.1 ethanol 13 water 86.9 perfume q~s.

~3~S~

Example 3 This Example also illustrates a lotion which is suitable for topical application to the scalp.

The lotion has the following formulation:
% w/w Hair growth promoter 15 propan-2-ol 10 ethanol 15 perfume q.s.
Water 60 Example 4 5 This Example also illustrates a hair tonic which is suitable for application to hair or scalp.

The hair tonic has the following formulation:
% w/w Hair growth promoter 20 ethanol 20 water 60 perfume q.s.

~L3~

Examples 5 to 8 The following formulations represent lotions which can be used topically in the treatment of bald or balding male or 5 female heads.
% w/w Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.4 - 0.4 Absolute ethanol 25 25 25 25 Propane-1,2-diol - - 38.4 38.4 Butane-1,3-diol 38.4 38.8 - -Paramethyl benzoate 0.2 0.2 0O2 0~2 Hair growth promoter 25 10 8 Perfume Water to 100 100 100 100 Exam~le 9 This Example illustrates a water-in oil high internal phase emulsion containing a hair growth promoter according to the invention.

The emulsion consisted of 10~ by volume oily phase and 90% by weight aqueous phase.

The oily phase and the aqueous phase had the following consitution:

~3~
_ 39 _ J 3050 % w/w Oily~phase Sorbitan monooleate 20 Quartenium 18 hectorite 5 5 Liquid paraffin 75 Aqueous phase Hair growth promoter 15 Xanthan gum 10 Preserv~tive 0.3 Perfume q.s.
Sodium chloride (1~ w/w solution) to 100 The emulsion was prepared by taking 10 parts by volume of the oily phase and to it adding slowly with stirring 90 parts by volume of the aqueous phase.

The high internal phase water-in-oil emulsio~ so formed can be applied topically to the scalp, to improve hair growth and regrowth.

The following examples 10 to 12 illustrate shampoos for ; use in washing the hair and scalp, and for promoting hair growth on the scalp.
.

- 40 -J.3050 % W!W
Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (2 EO) . 21~ AD 41.4 Lauryl dimethylamino acetic acid betaine: 30~ AD 4 Coconut fatty acid diethanolamine 1.5 Oleyl triethoxy phosphate ~BRIPHOS 03D~ 1 10 Polyglycol-polyamine~ondensation resin (POLYQUART H) : 50% active 1.5 Preservative, colouri~g matter, salt 0.58 Hair growth promoter 15 Perfume q.s.
15 Water to 100 Example ll % w/w Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (2 EO) :
100% AD 12 ~ POLYQUART H : 50~ active 2.5 X 25 BRIPHOS 03D 2.5 Hair growth promoter 24 Zinc Sulphate 5 Perfume q.s.
Water to 100 ~ 6 ~ ~ ~l<

~L3C1~5~
~ J 3050 Exam~le 12 % w/w Monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate :
100~ AD 20 POLYQUART H : 5 0 % active 3 BRIPHOS 03D 1.7 Coconut diethanolamide 5 Hair growth promoter 25 Perfume q. s .
Water to 100 pH adjusted to 6.5 Examples_13 to 24 These examples illustrate lotions according to the invention, each sontaining an activity enhancer which can be used topically in the treatment of bald or balding male or female heads, in order to initiate or promote or enhance hair growth.

%w/w Example No. _ 13 14 15 25 Minoxidil 1 2 5 Absolute ethanol 10 20 30 Hair growth promoter 10 5 Paramethyl benzoate 0.2 0.2 0.2 Perfume q. 6 q.S q.S
~ater to 100 to 100 to 100 - 42 ~ J.3050 Exam~le No. 16 17 18 Esterified disaccharide~ 1 2 5 Absolute ethanol 10 15 20 Hair growth promoter 15 5 S Paramethyl benzoate 0.2 0O2 0.2 Perfume q.s g.s q.s Hydroxethyl cellulose - 0.4 Water to 100 to 100 ko 100 CH,OSO3 ~1 C~co~ ' ~lot,oC~7, ~C~ ~

~ Co~3 (-~3 t3COO ~
oC~3 xample No. _ 19_ 20 _ 21 Zinc sulphate 1 5lO
Absolute ethanol 5 Hair Growth Promoter 10 5 25 Perfume g.s q.s g.s Paramethyl benzoate - 0.2 0.2 Water to 100 to 100to 100 Example No. _ 22 23 24 30 N-methyl pyrrolidone 1 5 lO
Absolute ethanol - - 5 Hair growth promoter 10 5 0,5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.4 0.4 0.4 Paramethyl benzoate 0.2 0.2 0.2 35 Perfume q.s q.s g.s Water to 100 to 100to 100

Claims (17)

1. A composition suitable for topical application to mammalian skin or hair, comprising an amount of the cell-free supernatant from a culture of dermal papilla fibroblasts which is sufficient to increase hair growth in the rat, when applied thereto, by at least 10%
more than that obtainable using a control composition from which the said cell-free supernatant has been omitted.

2. A composition according to claim 1, in which the supernatant has been concentrated at least 50 times.

3. A composition according to claim 1, in which the supernatant has been concentrated at least 100 times.

4. A composition according to claim 1, in which the supernatant comprises a proteinaceous hair growth promoter which is characterised by:

i) having an apparent molecular weight of at least 500D; and ii) possessing the ability to initiate DNA synthesis in a culture of serum-starved NIH 3T3 cells.

5. A composition according to claim 4, in which the hair growth promoter has an apparent molecular weight of from 500D to 1,000,000D.

6. A composition according to claim 4, in which the hair growth promoter has an apparent molecular weight of at least 2000D

7. A composition according to claim 1, 2 or 4, in which the supernatant has a protein level of not greater than 10mg/ml.

8. A composition according to claims 4 or 5, in which the hair growth promoter forms from 0.00001 to 99%
by weight.

9. A composition according to claim 1, which comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle in addition to the culture supernatant.

10. A composition according to claim 9, in which the vehicle forms from 1 to 99.9999% by weight.

11. A composition suitable for topical application to mammalian skin or hair comprising:

i) an amount of a hair growth promoter, or active fragments thereof, sufficient to increase hair growth in the rat, when applied thereto, by at least 10% more than that obtainable using a control composition from which the said hair growth promoter has been omitted; and ii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, the hair growth promoter having been obtained from a cell-free supernatant of cultured dermal papilla fibroblasts, the hair growth promoter being proteinaceous, and being further characterised by:

(a) having an apparent molecular weight of at least 500D;
and (b) possessing the ability to initiate DNA synthesis in a culture of serum starved NIH 3T3 cells.

12. A composition suitable for topical application to mammalian skin or hair comprising:

i) an amount of hair growth promoter, or active fragments thereof, sufficient to increase hair growth in the rat, when applied thereto by at least 10% more than that obtainable using a control composition from which the said hair growth promoter has been omitted; and ii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, the hair growth promoter having been obtained from a cell-free supernatant of cultured dermal papilla fibroblasts following:-inoculation of a nutrient medium with dermal papilla fibroblasts;

incubation at a temperature of from 15° to 45°C for at least 24 hours;

separation of the supernatant liquor from the culture;
and concentration of said supernatant liquor at least 50 times;

the hair growth factor so obtained being characterised by:

(a) having a molecular weight of at least 500 D; and (b) possessing the ability to at least double the synthesis of DNA in serum starved 3T3 cells as measured by uptake of tritiated thymidine.

13. A composition according to claim 1, which additionally comprises an activity enhancer chosen from other hair growth stimulants, protein stabilising agents and penetration enhancers.

14. A composition according to claim 13, in which the other hair growth stimulant is chosen from minoxidil, minoxidil glucuronides, minoxidil sulphates or mixtures thereof.

15. A composition according to claim 13, in which the protein stabilising agent is chosen from glycerol, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, cysteine, ?2-macroglobulin, serum or mixtures thereof.

16. A composition according to claim 13, in which the penetration enhancer is chosen from diisopropyl sebacate, C1 to C30 alkyl esters of pyroglutamic acid, 2-pyrrolidone, 1-methyl-2-pyrrolidone or mixtures thereof.

17. A process for the preparation of a hair growth promoter, which comprises the steps of:

i) inoculating a nutrient medium with dermal papilla fibroblasts, ii) incubating with the medium at a temperature of from 15°
to 45°C.

iii) separating the supernatant from the culture, and iv) concentrating the cell-free supernatant at least 50 times, the concentrate so obtained containing a proteinaceous hair growth promoter which is characterised by:

(a) having an apparent molecular weight of at least 500D; and (b) possessing the ability to initiate DNA synthesis of serum-starved NIH 3T3 cells.