CA2564836A1 - Cosmetic compositions containing nigrospora sphaerica extracts - Google Patents
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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Abstract
Disclosed are extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica as cosmetic skin benefit agents, preferably as skin lightening agents alone or in combination with other skin benefit agents and together with a cosmetic vehicle. The inventive extracts, compositions and methods have effective skin lightening properties, may be easier to deliver to the skin, and are commercially available, cost-effective and available in nature.
Description
COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING
NIGROSPORA SPHAERICA EXTRACTS
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to compositions for topical application to human skin which compositions contain extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica and to methods of using the compositions for treatment and conditioning, and particularly for lightening, of skin.
1o BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Many people are concerned with the degree of pigmentation of their skin. For example, people with age spots or freckles may wish such pigmented spots to be less pronounced. Others may wish to reduce the skin darkening caused by s5 exposure to sunlight or to lighten their natural skin color. To meet this need, many attempts have been made to develop products that reduce pigment production in melanocytes. However, the substances identified thus far tend to have either low efficacy or undesirable side effects, such as, for example, toxicity or skin irritation.
Therefore, there is a continuing need for new skin lightening agents, with 2 o improved overall effectiveness, as well as agents that lend themselves to ease of processing in their manufacture.
The present invention is based at least in part on the discovery that extracts of the fungus Nigrospora sphaerica have at least comparable and/or demonstrably better skin lightening 25 activity than known skin lightening agents. The use of Nigrospora sphaerica for cosmetic applications has not heretofore been known.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
NIGROSPORA SPHAERICA EXTRACTS
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The invention relates to compositions for topical application to human skin which compositions contain extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica and to methods of using the compositions for treatment and conditioning, and particularly for lightening, of skin.
1o BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Many people are concerned with the degree of pigmentation of their skin. For example, people with age spots or freckles may wish such pigmented spots to be less pronounced. Others may wish to reduce the skin darkening caused by s5 exposure to sunlight or to lighten their natural skin color. To meet this need, many attempts have been made to develop products that reduce pigment production in melanocytes. However, the substances identified thus far tend to have either low efficacy or undesirable side effects, such as, for example, toxicity or skin irritation.
Therefore, there is a continuing need for new skin lightening agents, with 2 o improved overall effectiveness, as well as agents that lend themselves to ease of processing in their manufacture.
The present invention is based at least in part on the discovery that extracts of the fungus Nigrospora sphaerica have at least comparable and/or demonstrably better skin lightening 25 activity than known skin lightening agents. The use of Nigrospora sphaerica for cosmetic applications has not heretofore been known.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
3 o The present invention alleviates the deficiencies of the prior art and includes, in part, a novel composition containing a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable carrier and an extract of Nigrospora sphaerica. The inventive compositions contain '"s:._~,~.~t~:~.
_ 2 _ 0.000001 to 50 % by weight of extract of Nigrospora sphaerica, and preferably, an organic solvent extract thereof. Preferably, the amount of the extract is 0.00001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.001 % to about 7% by weight, and even more preferably 0.01 % to 5% by weight, to attain optimum skin lightening activity at a minimum cost.
The inventive compositions further comprise a skin benefit agent and/or a sunscreen. The skin benefit agent is selected from alpha-hydroxy aads, beta-hydroxy aads, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone; Vitamin B andlor C derivatives (e.g.
niacinamide); dioic acids, retinoids, resorcinol derivatives, betulinic ac~l, vanillic acid, betulinic acid, hydrolactin, and mixtures thereof. Organic and inorganic (e.g.
micronized metal oxides) sunscreens may also be included. Organic sunscreens may include Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4 , Benzophenone-8, methoxycinnamate, ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABA, glyoeryl PABA, homosalate, methyl anthranilate, octocrylene, octyl dimethyl PABA, octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX), octyl salicylate, PABA, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, TEA salicylate, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene}~amphor, Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-6, Benzophenone-12, 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (PARSOL 1789), etocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
The invention also includes methods of conditioning skin by applying topically thereto the inventive compositions containing extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica. The invention also includes a method of lightening the skin by applying thereto a composition comprising 0.000001 % to 50% by weight of a Nigrospora sphaerica extract 2 5 and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
The inventive compositions are useful in preventing or repairing such skin conditions as wrinkling, laxity, and photo damage. The inventive compositions and methods have effective skin lightening properties, may be easier to deliver to the skin, and are cost-3 0 effective and available from natural sources.
AMENDED SHEET
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions for topical application to human skin which compositions contain extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica and to methods of using the compositions for treatment and conditioning, and particularly for lightening, of skin.
Nigrospora is a filamentous dematiaceous fungus widely distributed in soil, decaying plants, and seeds. Nigrospora colonies are rapid growing, compact, woolly, at first white, becoming gray with black areas and a black reverse color. Nigrospora 1 o sphaerica produce conidiophores which forcibly discharge the conidia. The Conidia are black, solitary, unicellular, slightly flattened horizontally, and have a thin equatorial germ slit. Nigrospora sphaerica, the best known species of the genus Nigrospora, may be found in the Hawaiian Islands and around the Pacific Ocean, among other places. The extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica suitable for use in the ~5 present compositions are organic solvent extracts, e.g., alcoholic extracts (methanol) or ethyl acetate extracts.
According to the present invention, extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica must be presented in the composition in an amount of about 0.000001 % to about 50 % by 2 o weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of the extract is about 0.00001 to about 10%, more preferably about 0.001 % to about 7%, and even more preferably about 0.01 °I° to about 5%, to attain optimum skin lightening activity at a minimum cost.
As used herein, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to describe compositions for topical application to human skin.
As used herein, the term "comprising" means including, made up of, composed of, consisting 3 o and/or consisting essentially of.
_ 2 _ 0.000001 to 50 % by weight of extract of Nigrospora sphaerica, and preferably, an organic solvent extract thereof. Preferably, the amount of the extract is 0.00001 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.001 % to about 7% by weight, and even more preferably 0.01 % to 5% by weight, to attain optimum skin lightening activity at a minimum cost.
The inventive compositions further comprise a skin benefit agent and/or a sunscreen. The skin benefit agent is selected from alpha-hydroxy aads, beta-hydroxy aads, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone; Vitamin B andlor C derivatives (e.g.
niacinamide); dioic acids, retinoids, resorcinol derivatives, betulinic ac~l, vanillic acid, betulinic acid, hydrolactin, and mixtures thereof. Organic and inorganic (e.g.
micronized metal oxides) sunscreens may also be included. Organic sunscreens may include Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4 , Benzophenone-8, methoxycinnamate, ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABA, glyoeryl PABA, homosalate, methyl anthranilate, octocrylene, octyl dimethyl PABA, octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX), octyl salicylate, PABA, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, TEA salicylate, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene}~amphor, Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-6, Benzophenone-12, 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (PARSOL 1789), etocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
The invention also includes methods of conditioning skin by applying topically thereto the inventive compositions containing extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica. The invention also includes a method of lightening the skin by applying thereto a composition comprising 0.000001 % to 50% by weight of a Nigrospora sphaerica extract 2 5 and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
The inventive compositions are useful in preventing or repairing such skin conditions as wrinkling, laxity, and photo damage. The inventive compositions and methods have effective skin lightening properties, may be easier to deliver to the skin, and are cost-3 0 effective and available from natural sources.
AMENDED SHEET
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to compositions for topical application to human skin which compositions contain extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica and to methods of using the compositions for treatment and conditioning, and particularly for lightening, of skin.
Nigrospora is a filamentous dematiaceous fungus widely distributed in soil, decaying plants, and seeds. Nigrospora colonies are rapid growing, compact, woolly, at first white, becoming gray with black areas and a black reverse color. Nigrospora 1 o sphaerica produce conidiophores which forcibly discharge the conidia. The Conidia are black, solitary, unicellular, slightly flattened horizontally, and have a thin equatorial germ slit. Nigrospora sphaerica, the best known species of the genus Nigrospora, may be found in the Hawaiian Islands and around the Pacific Ocean, among other places. The extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica suitable for use in the ~5 present compositions are organic solvent extracts, e.g., alcoholic extracts (methanol) or ethyl acetate extracts.
According to the present invention, extracts of Nigrospora sphaerica must be presented in the composition in an amount of about 0.000001 % to about 50 % by 2 o weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of the extract is about 0.00001 to about 10%, more preferably about 0.001 % to about 7%, and even more preferably about 0.01 °I° to about 5%, to attain optimum skin lightening activity at a minimum cost.
As used herein, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to describe compositions for topical application to human skin.
As used herein, the term "comprising" means including, made up of, composed of, consisting 3 o and/or consisting essentially of.
The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, axilla, hands, legs, and scalp.
Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about". All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.
It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration, any particular upper Zo concentration can be'associated with any particular lower concentration.
The extracts according to the present invention are from a material of the kingdom of fungi; phylum of Ascomycota; genus of Nigrospora; and species of sphaerica.
Nigrospora sphaerica, as used in accordance with the present invention, was harvested in the Hawaiian Islands and around the Pacific Ocean. After harvesting, the organisms are grown in a first culture medium, from which the specific strain is 2 o isolated and removed to be grown in a second culture medium. The Nigrospora sphaerica is then isolated from the second culture medium, followed by extraction.
The culture and extraction techniques used in accordance with the present invention are those known or further developed by those skilled in the art of microbiology. The particular culture protocol under which the microorganism was grown and the extraction protocol that was used to. prepare the extracts that were screened are set forth hereinbelow. The culture and extraction protocols are further translated below into detailed recipes for media preparation and methods of extraction.
Lead Collection Details The following table contains information about the geographic location of collection, the media used to isolate the microorganism, and the morphological characteristics of the microorganism growing on agar isolation plates.
Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about". All amounts are by weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified.
It should be noted that in specifying any range of concentration, any particular upper Zo concentration can be'associated with any particular lower concentration.
The extracts according to the present invention are from a material of the kingdom of fungi; phylum of Ascomycota; genus of Nigrospora; and species of sphaerica.
Nigrospora sphaerica, as used in accordance with the present invention, was harvested in the Hawaiian Islands and around the Pacific Ocean. After harvesting, the organisms are grown in a first culture medium, from which the specific strain is 2 o isolated and removed to be grown in a second culture medium. The Nigrospora sphaerica is then isolated from the second culture medium, followed by extraction.
The culture and extraction techniques used in accordance with the present invention are those known or further developed by those skilled in the art of microbiology. The particular culture protocol under which the microorganism was grown and the extraction protocol that was used to. prepare the extracts that were screened are set forth hereinbelow. The culture and extraction protocols are further translated below into detailed recipes for media preparation and methods of extraction.
Lead Collection Details The following table contains information about the geographic location of collection, the media used to isolate the microorganism, and the morphological characteristics of the microorganism growing on agar isolation plates.
Location!CotiectionType SaliniitrRecoveryRecoveryIsolation Spore Fungal DescriptionTaken Descriptionppt Media Temp, Mectia FormationTexUure HawafranSubtic~lRed 36 PDA YPG (y~st,FALSE Dense (potato glucose, Island] starch,25 peptone) tufts : Coral deg.C with Sf~
(sod, reefs, dexhtse) potato, noble carbohydrate) and lava tt~es Fermentation Media for Fungal Cultures and Protocol Media Component Quantity Sodium Gitrate 8 Cottonseed meal 5 Mannitol 5 Pe tone 4 L-ar inine t.5 Add media components to 1 L seawater adjusted to pH=4.0 t 0.2, and ferment in stationary liquid for 16 days a~ 25° C.
Extraction Protocol Add approximately equal volume of HP-20 resin beads (DIAION brand, Mitsubishi, Japan) to the whole broth culture; shake for 2 hours; filter, wash twice with an equal volume of H20; hold under vacuum for 45 minutes to dry; and extract residue with an equal volume of MeOH (methanol). Other suitable organic 2 o solvents include but are not limited to ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, chloroform, etc. Finally the extract is filtered and the solvent removed.
(sod, reefs, dexhtse) potato, noble carbohydrate) and lava tt~es Fermentation Media for Fungal Cultures and Protocol Media Component Quantity Sodium Gitrate 8 Cottonseed meal 5 Mannitol 5 Pe tone 4 L-ar inine t.5 Add media components to 1 L seawater adjusted to pH=4.0 t 0.2, and ferment in stationary liquid for 16 days a~ 25° C.
Extraction Protocol Add approximately equal volume of HP-20 resin beads (DIAION brand, Mitsubishi, Japan) to the whole broth culture; shake for 2 hours; filter, wash twice with an equal volume of H20; hold under vacuum for 45 minutes to dry; and extract residue with an equal volume of MeOH (methanol). Other suitable organic 2 o solvents include but are not limited to ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, chloroform, etc. Finally the extract is filtered and the solvent removed.
Identification of Microorganisms The identity of the microorganisms was confirmed to be Nigrospora sphaerica using the following procedure. Sample results, including fatty add profiles and library matches were performed by Microbial ID Inc., Newark, Delaware.
OPTIONAL SKIN BENEFIT AGENTS
s o Suitable additional skin benefit agents include anti-aging, wrinkle-redudng, skin whitening, anti-acne, and sebum reduction agents. Examples of these include alpha-hydroxy adds, beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, ~tamic B and C derivatives, dioic aads, retinoids; betulinic acid; vanillic acid;
allantoin, a placenta extract; hydrolactin; and resorcinol derivatives.
COSMETICALLY ACCEPTABLE CARRIER
The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the skin benefit ingredients in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
The vehicle may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably, the compositions are aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, preferentially oil-in-water emulsions. Water when present will be in amounts which may range from 5 to 99%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally between 40 and 70% by weight.
Besides water, relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within the compositions of the present invention. Most preferred are monohydric C~-C3 alkanols. These include ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol.
The amount of monohydric alkanol may range from 1 to 70%, preferably from 10 to 50%, optimally between 15 to 40% by weight.
Emollient materials may also serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight.
Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor so pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes. Non-volatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material 1s include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about million centistokes at 25°C. Among the preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from 2 o about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25°C.
Among the ester emollients are:
(1 ) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Examples 25 thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
(2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
3 0 (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and _ g _ di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.
(4) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate 1o and arachidyl behenate.
(5) Sterol esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples.
Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids.
Humectanfis of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be employed as cosmetically 2 o acceptable carriers in compositions of this invention. The humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropyfene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate. The amounfi of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15°l° by weight of the composition.
Thickeners may also be utilised as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g.
Carbopol 1382), taurate polymer, cellulosic derivatives and natural gums.
Among useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums.
Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 5%, usually from 0.001 to 1 %, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
1 o Collectively the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/or thickeners will constitute the cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight.
An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.
Surfactants may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention.
Total concentration of the surfactant will range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a Coo-C2o fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mote of hydrophobe; C~-Coo alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di- fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- Cs-C20 fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide); and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g.
methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyi sulfosuccinates, Cs-C2o acyl isethionates, acyl glutamates, Cs-C2o alkyl ether phosphates and combinations thereof.
OPTIONAL COMPONENTS
In the cosmetic compositions of the invention, there may be optionally added plasticizers; calamine; antioxidants; chelating agents; as well as sunscreens.
Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic 1 o compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, pigments, opacifiers, and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range anywhere from 0.001 % up to 20% by weight of the composition.
For use as a sunscreen, metal oxides may be used alone or in mixture and/or in combination with organic sunscreens. Examples of organic sunscreens include but are not limited to those set forth in the table below.
The amount of the organic sunscreens in the cosmetic composition is preferably in the range of about 0.1 wt % to about 10 wt %, more preferably about 1 wt % to 5 wt %.
2 o Preferred organic sunscreens are PARSOL MCX and Parsol 1789, due to their effectiveness and commercial availability.
CTFA Name Trade Name Supplier Benzophenone-3 UVINUL M-4.0 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-4. UVINUL MS-40 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-8 SPECRA-SORB UV-24 American Cyanamide Methoxycinnamate BERNEL HYDRO Bernel Chemical Ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABAAMERSCREEN P Amerchol Corp.
Glyceryl PABA NIPA G.M.P.A. Nipa Labs.
Homosalate I<EMESTER HMS Hunko Chemical Methyl anthranilate SUNAROME WA Fefton Worldwide Octocrylene UVINUL N-539 BASF Chemical Co.
Oclyl dimethyl PABA AMERSCOL Amerchol Corp.
Octyl methoxycinnamate PARSOL MCX Bernel Chemical Octyl salicylate SUNAROME WMO Felton Worldwide PABA PABA National Starch 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonicEUSOLEX 232 EM Industries add 2 TEA salicylate SUNAROME W Felton Worldwide 3-(4-methylbenzylidene}-camphorEUSOLEX 6300 EM Industries Benzophenone-1 UVINUL 400 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-2 UVINUL D~0 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-6 UVINUL D-49 BASF Chemical Co.
2 Benzophenone-12 UVINUL 408 BASF Chemical 5 Co.
4-Isopropyl dibenzoyl EUSOLEX 8020 EM Industries methane Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl PARSOL 1789 Givaudan Corp.
methane Etocrylene UVINUL N-35 BASF Chemical Co.
USE OF THE COMPOSITION
The fungal extracts and compositions according to the invention are intended primarily as a personal care product for topical application to human skin, as well as to lighten the skin, 3 5 to reduce the degree of pigmentation in the skin, or to even the skin tone.
In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 5 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.
PRODUCT FORM AND PACKAGING
The cosmetic composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion having a viscosity of from 4,000 to 10,000 mPas, a fluid cream having a viscosity of from 10,000 to 20, 000 mPas, or a cream having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 100,000 1o mPas or above. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation.
When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. When the composition is a solid or semi-solid stick, it may be packaged in a suitable container for manually or mechanically pushing out or extruding the composition.
The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically 2 o acceptable composition as herein defined.
The following examples are by way of example, not by way of limitation, of the principles of the present invention, to illustrate the best mode of carrying out the invention.
This example illustrates reduction in new melanin synthesis using the inventive extracts of 3 o Nigrospora sphaerica.
The extracts of Nigrospora shpaerica used throughout the examples that follow were prepared in accordance with the procedures set forth hereinabove.
Organ Culture Method Waste skin from 8-month old pigmented pigs was shaved to remove hairs and washed thoroughly to remove debris and reduce microbial content. The deaned skin was then demiatomed to approximately 1-mm thickness x 75-cm2 and placed in tissue culture flasks containing Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium (DMEM Cat#1188507) containing 1 o penicillin (100-units/ml), streptomycin (100-ug/ml), kanamycin (200-ug/ml), glutamine (2-mM), and fungizone (0.5-ug/ml). All flasks were incubated overnight at 37°C in the presence of 5% carbon dioxide. This allowed the skin to equilibrate for 18 hours prior to the addition of melanin inhibitors. Areas of the skin that had scratches, erythema, or uneven pigmentation were discarded.
The following morning, the skin was punched into 4-mm diameter biopsies and transferred to a 96-well tissue culture plate. To each well containing a biopsy, 180-microliters of fresh DMEM containing penicillin (100-units/ml), streptomycin (100-ug/ml), glutamine (2-mM), hydrocortisone (100-pg/ml) and 0.4-pCilml ~4C-thiouracil (Moravek Biochemicals) was 2 o added along with 20-microliters of natural extract (extracts were initially dissolved in DMSO, i.e., dimethyl sulfoxide, and diluted with phosphate buffered saline).
All the plates were returned to the incubator for three days.
Following a three day incubation period, excess unincorporated radiolabel was removed 2 5 by washing the biopsies at room temperature two times with 0.1 M carbonate bufFer at pH
10 for 30 minutes and 2 hours respectively using an automated plate washer.
Biopsies were then bleached and dissolved by addition of 100-microliters of 1 N NaOH/3%
followed by incubation overnight at 60°C.
3 o Once dry, 50-microliters of 2N-HCI was added to each well to re-dissolve/neutralize the samples followed by the addition of 220-microliters of scintillation cocktail (Packard MicroScint-40). The samples were mixed several times to ensure even dispersion, sealed, and assessed for radiolabel incorporation using a Packard TopCount scintillation counter. A reduction in radiolabel incorporation translates to a reduction in new melanin synthesis.
Treatment Concentration% Radiolabel Reduction Ni ros ora s haerica extract 80-a /ml 45 8-a /ml 4 Kojic Acid 1.4 mg/ml 56 10 mM
'~ Statistically significant an p-vane of Hess than u.u~ using siuaents i-iesz.
E>CAMPLE 2 1 o MelanoDerm Tissue Model Method A MelanoDerm tissue equivalent model (MEL-300 from Mat Tek, Ashland, Massachusetts) containing melanocytes obtained from dark skin individuals was utilized to confirm the results obtained in the pig organ culture. MelanoDem~s were cultured as per the supplier instructions.
Medium was replaced every two days over a 14-day period and treatments including the natural extracts were added to the medium phase at a final concentration of 50 and 100-micrograms per ml. Positive control was included, 2 o i.e., kojic acid, which is a known skin lightening agent. During each medium change, a portion of the waste was analyzed for levels of lactate dehydrogenase as an indicator of cellular toxicity and stress. At no time was the level of lactate dehydrogenase above the vehicle control solvents (water or ethanol).
Determination of melanin content within each MelanoDerm was performed using the assay provided by the manufacturer. Each MelanoDerm was homogenized in 450-microliters of buffer (1 % SDS, 0.05-mM EDTA, 10-mM Tris-HCI, pH 6.8) containing 20-microliters of Proteinase K (5 mg/ml) and incubated overnight at 45°C.
The following day, 50-microliters of sodium carbonate (500-mM) and 10-microliters of hydrogen peroxide (30% solution) was added to each sample and incubated at 80°C for 30 minutes and then cooled. The optical density of the top phase was determined (405-nm) following extraction of the sample with 100-microliters of chloroform:methanol (2:1 ) and centrifugation (10,000 g) for ten minutes. Optical density readings relative to the untreated or vehicle control (water or ethanol) were then calculated.
TABLE 5. MelanoDerm Skin Equivalent Model Results Treatment Concentration % Melanin Reduction Kojic Acid 14 micro-g/ml 9.5 100 uM
Ni ros ora s haerica Extract 50 a ml 60.9*
100 a /ml 48.9*
* Statistically significant an p-vame of less man u.u~ using 5luaerl~5 mess.
1 o EXAMPLE 3 Cosmetic compositions within the scope of the invention were prepared.
A base formulation shown in the Table below was made by heating phase A
ingredients to 70 to 85° C with stirring. Phase B ingredients were heated in a separate container to 70 to 85° C with stirring. Then, phase A was added into phase B while both phases were kept at 70 to 85° C. The mixture was stirred for at least 15 minutes at 70 to 85° C, then cooled.
Ingredients a b %wt. %wt. Phase Isostearyl palmitate 6.00 6.00 A
C12-C15 Alkyl octanoate 3.00 3.00 A
PEG-100 stearate 2.00 2.00 A
Glyceryl hydroxystearate 1.50 1.50 A
Stearyl alcohol 1.50 1.50 A
Stearic acid 3.00 4.00 A
TEA, 99% 1.20 1.20 B
Dimethicone 1.00 1.00 A
Sorbitan monostearate 1.00 1.00 A
Magnesium aluminum silicate0.60 0.60 B
Vitamin E acetate 0.10 0.10 A
Cholesterol 0.50 0.50 A
Simethicone 0.01 0.01 B
Xanthan gum 0.20 0.20 B
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50 0.50 B
Propylparaben 0.10 0.10 B
Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 B
Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.05 0.05 B
Nigrospora sphaerica extract0.05 2.00 B
Niacinamide 1.00 1.00 B
Metal oxide 2.50 5.00 B
Methylparaben 0.15 0.15 B
* *
Water BAL BAL B
Total 100.00 100.00 B
~'BAL means Balance.
An additional cosmetic composition within the scope of the invention was s o prepared as follows:
1. Heat Phase A to 80°C
2. Heat Phase B to 75°C in a separate container 3. Add B to A and mix with heat off for 30 min.
4. At 50°C add Phase C and mix for 10 min.
Component Wt~~o Phase Water, DI BALANCE A
Disodium EDTA 0.05 A
Magnesium aluminum o.s A
silicate Methyl paraben 0.15 A
Simethicone 0.01 A
Butylene glycol 1,3 3.0 A
Hydroxyethylcellulose0.5 A
Glycerine, USP 2.0 A
Xanthan gum 0.2 A
Triethanolamine 1.2 B
Stearic acid 3.0 B
Propyl paraben NF 0.1 B
Glyceryl hydroxystearate1.5 B
Stearyl alcohol ' 1.5 B
Isostearyl palmitate 6.0 B
C12-15 alcohols octanoate3.0 B
Dimethicone 1.0 B
Cholesterol NF 0.5 B
Sorbitan stearate 1.0 B
Micronized titanium 5.0 C
dioxide Tocopheryl acetate 0.1 B
PEG-100 stearate 2.0 B
Sodium stearoyl ladylate0.5 B
Hydroxycaprylic aad 0.1 C
Nigrospora sphaerica 10.0 C
extract PARSOL MCX 2.4 C
Alpha-bisabolol 0.2 C
A set of additional compositions were prepared, according to the method of Example 3, within the scope of the present invention and are listed in the table below.
Ingredients Phase Examples (wt.
%) acid soap base Stearic acid A 17.9 17.9 17.917.917.9 17.9 17.9 17.9 Sodium cetearylA 2.2 1 1.5 2 3 2 sulfate*
M ' 59* A 2 2 2 2 2 1 S an 60* A 2 2 2 2 2 1 Nigrospora B 0.05 0.05 2.0 2.0 3.5 3.5 5.0 10.0 sphaeriea extract Micronized zincB 2.50 5.00 5.002.502.50 5.00 2.50 5.00 oxide KOH, 22% (form A 2.20 in situ soap with stearic acid) Octyl B 2.50 2.502.50 2.50 methox cinnamate Water B BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL
Glycerin B 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 * emulsifier
OPTIONAL SKIN BENEFIT AGENTS
s o Suitable additional skin benefit agents include anti-aging, wrinkle-redudng, skin whitening, anti-acne, and sebum reduction agents. Examples of these include alpha-hydroxy adds, beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, ~tamic B and C derivatives, dioic aads, retinoids; betulinic acid; vanillic acid;
allantoin, a placenta extract; hydrolactin; and resorcinol derivatives.
COSMETICALLY ACCEPTABLE CARRIER
The cosmetically acceptable vehicle may act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the skin benefit ingredients in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin.
The vehicle may be aqueous, anhydrous or an emulsion. Preferably, the compositions are aqueous or an emulsion, especially water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, preferentially oil-in-water emulsions. Water when present will be in amounts which may range from 5 to 99%, preferably from 20 to 70%, optimally between 40 and 70% by weight.
Besides water, relatively volatile solvents may also serve as carriers within the compositions of the present invention. Most preferred are monohydric C~-C3 alkanols. These include ethyl alcohol, methyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol.
The amount of monohydric alkanol may range from 1 to 70%, preferably from 10 to 50%, optimally between 15 to 40% by weight.
Emollient materials may also serve as cosmetically acceptable carriers. These may be in the form of silicone oils and synthetic esters. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from 0.1 to 50%, preferably between 1 and 20% by weight.
Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor so pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes. Non-volatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material 1s include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about million centistokes at 25°C. Among the preferred non-volatile emollients useful in the present compositions are the polydimethyl siloxanes having viscosities from 2 o about 10 to about 400 centistokes at 25°C.
Among the ester emollients are:
(1 ) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Examples 25 thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
(2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
3 0 (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and _ g _ di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters.
(4) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate 1o and arachidyl behenate.
(5) Sterol esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples.
Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically acceptable carriers for compositions of this invention. Illustrative of this category are pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleic, arachidic, behenic and erucic acids.
Humectanfis of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be employed as cosmetically 2 o acceptable carriers in compositions of this invention. The humectant aids in increasing the effectiveness of the emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropyfene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate. The amounfi of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15°l° by weight of the composition.
Thickeners may also be utilised as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier of compositions according to the present invention. Typical thickeners include crosslinked acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g.
Carbopol 1382), taurate polymer, cellulosic derivatives and natural gums.
Among useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations of these gums.
Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0001 to 5%, usually from 0.001 to 1 %, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
1 o Collectively the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/or thickeners will constitute the cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to 99.9%, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight.
An oil or oily material may be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion, depending largely on the average hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of the emulsifier employed.
Surfactants may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention.
Total concentration of the surfactant will range from 0.1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 20%, optimally from 1 to 5% by weight of the composition. The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with a Coo-C2o fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide per mote of hydrophobe; C~-Coo alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di- fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and di- Cs-C20 fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide); and polyoxyethylene sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty amides (e.g.
methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyi sulfosuccinates, Cs-C2o acyl isethionates, acyl glutamates, Cs-C2o alkyl ether phosphates and combinations thereof.
OPTIONAL COMPONENTS
In the cosmetic compositions of the invention, there may be optionally added plasticizers; calamine; antioxidants; chelating agents; as well as sunscreens.
Other adjunct minor components may also be incorporated into the cosmetic 1 o compositions. These ingredients may include coloring agents, pigments, opacifiers, and perfumes. Amounts of these other adjunct minor components may range anywhere from 0.001 % up to 20% by weight of the composition.
For use as a sunscreen, metal oxides may be used alone or in mixture and/or in combination with organic sunscreens. Examples of organic sunscreens include but are not limited to those set forth in the table below.
The amount of the organic sunscreens in the cosmetic composition is preferably in the range of about 0.1 wt % to about 10 wt %, more preferably about 1 wt % to 5 wt %.
2 o Preferred organic sunscreens are PARSOL MCX and Parsol 1789, due to their effectiveness and commercial availability.
CTFA Name Trade Name Supplier Benzophenone-3 UVINUL M-4.0 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-4. UVINUL MS-40 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-8 SPECRA-SORB UV-24 American Cyanamide Methoxycinnamate BERNEL HYDRO Bernel Chemical Ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABAAMERSCREEN P Amerchol Corp.
Glyceryl PABA NIPA G.M.P.A. Nipa Labs.
Homosalate I<EMESTER HMS Hunko Chemical Methyl anthranilate SUNAROME WA Fefton Worldwide Octocrylene UVINUL N-539 BASF Chemical Co.
Oclyl dimethyl PABA AMERSCOL Amerchol Corp.
Octyl methoxycinnamate PARSOL MCX Bernel Chemical Octyl salicylate SUNAROME WMO Felton Worldwide PABA PABA National Starch 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonicEUSOLEX 232 EM Industries add 2 TEA salicylate SUNAROME W Felton Worldwide 3-(4-methylbenzylidene}-camphorEUSOLEX 6300 EM Industries Benzophenone-1 UVINUL 400 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-2 UVINUL D~0 BASF Chemical Co.
Benzophenone-6 UVINUL D-49 BASF Chemical Co.
2 Benzophenone-12 UVINUL 408 BASF Chemical 5 Co.
4-Isopropyl dibenzoyl EUSOLEX 8020 EM Industries methane Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl PARSOL 1789 Givaudan Corp.
methane Etocrylene UVINUL N-35 BASF Chemical Co.
USE OF THE COMPOSITION
The fungal extracts and compositions according to the invention are intended primarily as a personal care product for topical application to human skin, as well as to lighten the skin, 3 5 to reduce the degree of pigmentation in the skin, or to even the skin tone.
In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 5 ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.
PRODUCT FORM AND PACKAGING
The cosmetic composition of the invention can be formulated as a lotion having a viscosity of from 4,000 to 10,000 mPas, a fluid cream having a viscosity of from 10,000 to 20, 000 mPas, or a cream having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 100,000 1o mPas or above. The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or fluid cream can be packaged in a bottle or a roll-ball applicator or a propellant-driven aerosol device or a container fitted with a pump suitable for finger operation.
When the composition is a cream, it can simply be stored in a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar. When the composition is a solid or semi-solid stick, it may be packaged in a suitable container for manually or mechanically pushing out or extruding the composition.
The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically 2 o acceptable composition as herein defined.
The following examples are by way of example, not by way of limitation, of the principles of the present invention, to illustrate the best mode of carrying out the invention.
This example illustrates reduction in new melanin synthesis using the inventive extracts of 3 o Nigrospora sphaerica.
The extracts of Nigrospora shpaerica used throughout the examples that follow were prepared in accordance with the procedures set forth hereinabove.
Organ Culture Method Waste skin from 8-month old pigmented pigs was shaved to remove hairs and washed thoroughly to remove debris and reduce microbial content. The deaned skin was then demiatomed to approximately 1-mm thickness x 75-cm2 and placed in tissue culture flasks containing Dulbecco's Modified Eagle's Medium (DMEM Cat#1188507) containing 1 o penicillin (100-units/ml), streptomycin (100-ug/ml), kanamycin (200-ug/ml), glutamine (2-mM), and fungizone (0.5-ug/ml). All flasks were incubated overnight at 37°C in the presence of 5% carbon dioxide. This allowed the skin to equilibrate for 18 hours prior to the addition of melanin inhibitors. Areas of the skin that had scratches, erythema, or uneven pigmentation were discarded.
The following morning, the skin was punched into 4-mm diameter biopsies and transferred to a 96-well tissue culture plate. To each well containing a biopsy, 180-microliters of fresh DMEM containing penicillin (100-units/ml), streptomycin (100-ug/ml), glutamine (2-mM), hydrocortisone (100-pg/ml) and 0.4-pCilml ~4C-thiouracil (Moravek Biochemicals) was 2 o added along with 20-microliters of natural extract (extracts were initially dissolved in DMSO, i.e., dimethyl sulfoxide, and diluted with phosphate buffered saline).
All the plates were returned to the incubator for three days.
Following a three day incubation period, excess unincorporated radiolabel was removed 2 5 by washing the biopsies at room temperature two times with 0.1 M carbonate bufFer at pH
10 for 30 minutes and 2 hours respectively using an automated plate washer.
Biopsies were then bleached and dissolved by addition of 100-microliters of 1 N NaOH/3%
followed by incubation overnight at 60°C.
3 o Once dry, 50-microliters of 2N-HCI was added to each well to re-dissolve/neutralize the samples followed by the addition of 220-microliters of scintillation cocktail (Packard MicroScint-40). The samples were mixed several times to ensure even dispersion, sealed, and assessed for radiolabel incorporation using a Packard TopCount scintillation counter. A reduction in radiolabel incorporation translates to a reduction in new melanin synthesis.
Treatment Concentration% Radiolabel Reduction Ni ros ora s haerica extract 80-a /ml 45 8-a /ml 4 Kojic Acid 1.4 mg/ml 56 10 mM
'~ Statistically significant an p-vane of Hess than u.u~ using siuaents i-iesz.
E>CAMPLE 2 1 o MelanoDerm Tissue Model Method A MelanoDerm tissue equivalent model (MEL-300 from Mat Tek, Ashland, Massachusetts) containing melanocytes obtained from dark skin individuals was utilized to confirm the results obtained in the pig organ culture. MelanoDem~s were cultured as per the supplier instructions.
Medium was replaced every two days over a 14-day period and treatments including the natural extracts were added to the medium phase at a final concentration of 50 and 100-micrograms per ml. Positive control was included, 2 o i.e., kojic acid, which is a known skin lightening agent. During each medium change, a portion of the waste was analyzed for levels of lactate dehydrogenase as an indicator of cellular toxicity and stress. At no time was the level of lactate dehydrogenase above the vehicle control solvents (water or ethanol).
Determination of melanin content within each MelanoDerm was performed using the assay provided by the manufacturer. Each MelanoDerm was homogenized in 450-microliters of buffer (1 % SDS, 0.05-mM EDTA, 10-mM Tris-HCI, pH 6.8) containing 20-microliters of Proteinase K (5 mg/ml) and incubated overnight at 45°C.
The following day, 50-microliters of sodium carbonate (500-mM) and 10-microliters of hydrogen peroxide (30% solution) was added to each sample and incubated at 80°C for 30 minutes and then cooled. The optical density of the top phase was determined (405-nm) following extraction of the sample with 100-microliters of chloroform:methanol (2:1 ) and centrifugation (10,000 g) for ten minutes. Optical density readings relative to the untreated or vehicle control (water or ethanol) were then calculated.
TABLE 5. MelanoDerm Skin Equivalent Model Results Treatment Concentration % Melanin Reduction Kojic Acid 14 micro-g/ml 9.5 100 uM
Ni ros ora s haerica Extract 50 a ml 60.9*
100 a /ml 48.9*
* Statistically significant an p-vame of less man u.u~ using 5luaerl~5 mess.
1 o EXAMPLE 3 Cosmetic compositions within the scope of the invention were prepared.
A base formulation shown in the Table below was made by heating phase A
ingredients to 70 to 85° C with stirring. Phase B ingredients were heated in a separate container to 70 to 85° C with stirring. Then, phase A was added into phase B while both phases were kept at 70 to 85° C. The mixture was stirred for at least 15 minutes at 70 to 85° C, then cooled.
Ingredients a b %wt. %wt. Phase Isostearyl palmitate 6.00 6.00 A
C12-C15 Alkyl octanoate 3.00 3.00 A
PEG-100 stearate 2.00 2.00 A
Glyceryl hydroxystearate 1.50 1.50 A
Stearyl alcohol 1.50 1.50 A
Stearic acid 3.00 4.00 A
TEA, 99% 1.20 1.20 B
Dimethicone 1.00 1.00 A
Sorbitan monostearate 1.00 1.00 A
Magnesium aluminum silicate0.60 0.60 B
Vitamin E acetate 0.10 0.10 A
Cholesterol 0.50 0.50 A
Simethicone 0.01 0.01 B
Xanthan gum 0.20 0.20 B
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.50 0.50 B
Propylparaben 0.10 0.10 B
Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05 B
Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.05 0.05 B
Nigrospora sphaerica extract0.05 2.00 B
Niacinamide 1.00 1.00 B
Metal oxide 2.50 5.00 B
Methylparaben 0.15 0.15 B
* *
Water BAL BAL B
Total 100.00 100.00 B
~'BAL means Balance.
An additional cosmetic composition within the scope of the invention was s o prepared as follows:
1. Heat Phase A to 80°C
2. Heat Phase B to 75°C in a separate container 3. Add B to A and mix with heat off for 30 min.
4. At 50°C add Phase C and mix for 10 min.
Component Wt~~o Phase Water, DI BALANCE A
Disodium EDTA 0.05 A
Magnesium aluminum o.s A
silicate Methyl paraben 0.15 A
Simethicone 0.01 A
Butylene glycol 1,3 3.0 A
Hydroxyethylcellulose0.5 A
Glycerine, USP 2.0 A
Xanthan gum 0.2 A
Triethanolamine 1.2 B
Stearic acid 3.0 B
Propyl paraben NF 0.1 B
Glyceryl hydroxystearate1.5 B
Stearyl alcohol ' 1.5 B
Isostearyl palmitate 6.0 B
C12-15 alcohols octanoate3.0 B
Dimethicone 1.0 B
Cholesterol NF 0.5 B
Sorbitan stearate 1.0 B
Micronized titanium 5.0 C
dioxide Tocopheryl acetate 0.1 B
PEG-100 stearate 2.0 B
Sodium stearoyl ladylate0.5 B
Hydroxycaprylic aad 0.1 C
Nigrospora sphaerica 10.0 C
extract PARSOL MCX 2.4 C
Alpha-bisabolol 0.2 C
A set of additional compositions were prepared, according to the method of Example 3, within the scope of the present invention and are listed in the table below.
Ingredients Phase Examples (wt.
%) acid soap base Stearic acid A 17.9 17.9 17.917.917.9 17.9 17.9 17.9 Sodium cetearylA 2.2 1 1.5 2 3 2 sulfate*
M ' 59* A 2 2 2 2 2 1 S an 60* A 2 2 2 2 2 1 Nigrospora B 0.05 0.05 2.0 2.0 3.5 3.5 5.0 10.0 sphaeriea extract Micronized zincB 2.50 5.00 5.002.502.50 5.00 2.50 5.00 oxide KOH, 22% (form A 2.20 in situ soap with stearic acid) Octyl B 2.50 2.502.50 2.50 methox cinnamate Water B BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL BAL
Glycerin B 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 * emulsifier
Claims (17)
1. A cosmetic method of skin lightening comprising applying to the skin a composition comprising:
a. 0.000001 wt% to 50 wt% by weight of a Nigrospora sphaerica extract;
and b. a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
a. 0.000001 wt% to 50 wt% by weight of a Nigrospora sphaerica extract;
and b. a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
2. A cosmetic method according to claim 1 wherein said composition further comprises a sunscreen.
3. A cosmetic method according to claim 2 wherein said sunscreen is a micronized metal oxide.
4. A cosmetic method according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said extract comprises 0.00001 % to 10 % by weight of said composition.
5. A cosmetic method according to anyone of claims 1 to 3 wherein said extract comprises 0.001 % to 7 % by weight of said composition.
6. A cosmetic method according to anyone of claims 1 to 3 wherein said extract comprises 0.01 % to 5 % by weight of said composition.
7. A cosmetic method according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said Nigrospora sphaerica extract is an organic solvent extract.
8. A cosmetic method according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said composition further comprises a skin benefit agent selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, polyhydroxy ands, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, Vitamin B and/or C derivatives, dioic acid, retinoids, resorcinol derivatives, vanillic acid, betulinic acid, hydrolactin, and mixtures thereof.
9. A cosmetic method of according to anyone of the preceding claims wherein said composition further comprises an organic sunscreen selected from the group consisting of Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-8, methoxycinnamate, ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABA, glyceryl PABA, homosalate, methyl anthranilate, octocrylene, octyl dimethyl PABA, octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX), octyl salicylate, PABA, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, TEA salicylate, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-6, Benzophenone-12, 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (PARSOL 1789), etocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
10. A cosmetic composition comprising:
a. 0.000001 to 50 % by weight of Nigrospora sphaerica extract and b. a cosmetically acceptable carrier, and c. a skin benefit agent and/or a sunscreen; wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxy adds, beta-hydroxy adds, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, Vitamin B and/or C
derivatives, dioic acids, retinoids, resorcinol derivatives, vanillic acid, betulinic acid, hydrolactin, and mixtures thereof.
a. 0.000001 to 50 % by weight of Nigrospora sphaerica extract and b. a cosmetically acceptable carrier, and c. a skin benefit agent and/or a sunscreen; wherein the skin benefit agent is selected from the group consisting of alpha-hydroxy adds, beta-hydroxy adds, polyhydroxy acids, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, Vitamin B and/or C
derivatives, dioic acids, retinoids, resorcinol derivatives, vanillic acid, betulinic acid, hydrolactin, and mixtures thereof.
11. A cosmetic composition according to claim 10 wherein said extract is an organic solvent extract of Nigrospora spaerica.
12. A cosmetic composition according to claim 10 or claim 11 wherein said extract comprises 0.00001 % to 10 % by weight of said composition.
13. A cosmetic composition according to claim 10 or claim 11 wherein said extract comprises 0.001 % to 7 % by weight of said composition.
14. A cosmetic composition according to claim 10 or claim 11 wherein said extract comprises 0.01 % to 5 % by weight of said composition.
15. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 10 to 14 wherein said sunscreen comprises a micronized metal oxide.
16. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 10 to 15 wherein said sunscreen comprises an organic sunscreen selected from the group consisting of Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-8, methoxycinnamate, ethyl dihydroxypropyl-PABA, glyceryl PABA, homosalate, methyl anthranilate, octocrylene, octyl dimethyl PABA, octyl methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX), octyl salicylate, PABA, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, TEA salicylate, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, Benzophenone-1, Benzophenone-2, Benzophenone-6, Benzophenone-12, 4-isopropyl dibenzoyl methane, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane (PARSOL 1789), etocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
17. A cosmetic composition according to claim 16 wherein the amount of the organic sunscreen in the cosmetic composition is in the range of 0.1 % to 10 % by weight of the cosmetic composition.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US10/843,489 US7396534B2 (en) | 2004-05-11 | 2004-05-11 | Cosmetic compositions containing Nigrospora sphaerica extracts |
| US10/843,489 | 2004-05-11 | ||
| PCT/EP2005/004494 WO2005117809A2 (en) | 2004-05-11 | 2005-04-22 | Cosmetic compositions containing nigrospora sphaerica extracts |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA2564836A1 true CA2564836A1 (en) | 2005-12-15 |
| CA2564836C CA2564836C (en) | 2016-09-20 |
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA2564836A Expired - Fee Related CA2564836C (en) | 2004-05-11 | 2005-04-22 | Cosmetic compositions containing nigrospora sphaerica extracts |
Country Status (17)
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| US (1) | US7396534B2 (en) |
| EP (1) | EP1755549B1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP4679576B2 (en) |
| KR (1) | KR101220055B1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN101056612B (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE399533T1 (en) |
| AU (1) | AU2005249182B2 (en) |
| BR (1) | BRPI0509821B1 (en) |
| CA (1) | CA2564836C (en) |
| DE (1) | DE602005007893D1 (en) |
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| RU (1) | RU2353347C2 (en) |
| TW (1) | TWI378808B (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2005117809A2 (en) |
| ZA (1) | ZA200608618B (en) |
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| US8496948B2 (en) * | 2009-12-02 | 2013-07-30 | Bath And Body Works Brand Management, Inc. | Topical skin composition comprising mineral yeast ferments |
| RU2450836C1 (en) * | 2011-03-15 | 2012-05-20 | Закрытое акционерное общество Фармацевтическое научно-производственное предприятие "Ретиноиды" | Combined ointment composition for reducing intensity of local skin hyperpigmentation |
| CN113303342A (en) * | 2021-05-19 | 2021-08-27 | 湖南科技学院 | Ginkgo endospore melanosporum biological pesticide and preparation method and application thereof |
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| GB1186507A (en) * | 1967-12-13 | 1970-04-02 | Ici Ltd | Production of Griseofulvin |
| US3701787A (en) * | 1969-03-05 | 1972-10-31 | American Cyanamid Co | Preparation of 5,6-dihydro-5-hydroxy-6-propenyl-2-pyrone by fermentation and derivatives thereof |
| DE2901564A1 (en) * | 1979-01-12 | 1980-07-24 | Schering Ag | METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF 19 HYDROXYSTEROIDS OF THE ANDROSTANE AND PREGNANE SERIES |
| US4845027B1 (en) * | 1982-10-13 | 1994-05-10 | Biowhittaker Inc | Fluorometric assay of allergic reactions |
| US4963356A (en) * | 1982-10-13 | 1990-10-16 | Minnesota Mining And Manufacturing Company | Stable antigenic extracts methods |
| NO157136C (en) * | 1982-11-10 | 1988-01-27 | Ici Plc | ANALOGY PROCEDURE FOR THE PREPARATION OF THERAPEUTIC ACTIVE HOMOCYCLIC DERIVATIVES. |
| JPH0912471A (en) * | 1995-06-29 | 1997-01-14 | Noevir Co Ltd | Skin preparation for external use |
| PE20001145A1 (en) * | 1998-09-10 | 2000-10-25 | American Cyanamid Co | FUNGICIDE MIXTURES |
| JP2000146844A (en) * | 1998-11-17 | 2000-05-26 | Nichirei Corp | Instrument and method for measuring enzyme activity for polyphenoloxidases, and manufacture of the instrument |
| JP4009678B2 (en) * | 2000-03-03 | 2007-11-21 | 独立行政法人産業技術総合研究所 | Dioxin decomposition method using filamentous fungus, dioxin treating agent, and dioxin degrading filamentous fungus |
| FR2811890B1 (en) * | 2000-07-21 | 2003-05-02 | Oreal | ENZYME-BASED COMPOSITION FOR DECOLORATION OF KERATINIC FIBERS AND DECOLORATION METHOD |
| KR20050095617A (en) * | 2003-01-21 | 2005-09-29 | 파마시아 앤드 업존 캄파니 엘엘씨 | A PROCESS TO PRODUCE 19-NOR-10β-CARBOXYLIC ACIDS BY FUNGAL OXIDATION OF 6-SUBSTITUTED-△6-PREGNANES |
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- 2005-04-22 BR BRPI0509821A patent/BRPI0509821B1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
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Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| BRPI0509821B1 (en) | 2015-10-20 |
| AU2005249182A1 (en) | 2005-12-15 |
| BRPI0509821A (en) | 2007-09-18 |
| EP1755549B1 (en) | 2008-07-02 |
| EP1755549A2 (en) | 2007-02-28 |
| ATE399533T1 (en) | 2008-07-15 |
| TW200603837A (en) | 2006-02-01 |
| AU2005249182B2 (en) | 2007-05-03 |
| RU2353347C2 (en) | 2009-04-27 |
| CN101056612B (en) | 2012-11-14 |
| JP4679576B2 (en) | 2011-04-27 |
| WO2005117809A2 (en) | 2005-12-15 |
| US7396534B2 (en) | 2008-07-08 |
| RU2006139961A (en) | 2008-06-10 |
| KR20070011474A (en) | 2007-01-24 |
| ES2308534T3 (en) | 2008-12-01 |
| JP2007537173A (en) | 2007-12-20 |
| KR101220055B1 (en) | 2013-01-08 |
| PL1755549T3 (en) | 2008-12-31 |
| CN101056612A (en) | 2007-10-17 |
| ZA200608618B (en) | 2008-06-25 |
| US20050255056A1 (en) | 2005-11-17 |
| CA2564836C (en) | 2016-09-20 |
| TWI378808B (en) | 2012-12-11 |
| MXPA06012994A (en) | 2006-12-20 |
| WO2005117809A3 (en) | 2006-05-26 |
| DE602005007893D1 (en) | 2008-08-14 |
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