DE102007001027A1 - Cosmetic preparation, e.g. for care and conditioning of hair after permanent waving or dyeing, contains a combination of palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic and linoleic acids - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic compositions (I) containing a combination of active ingredients comprising palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic and linoleic acid, in which at least 50 wt.% of the mixture of these fatty acids and/or their glycerides must consist of palmitic, stearic and linoleic acids. An independent claim is included for a method for the treatment of keratinous fibres by applying (I) to the fibres, leaving it to act for between a few seconds and 45 minutes and then washing it off.

Description

The The invention relates to cosmetic agents containing a synergistic effective combination of active substances containing selected fatty acids and squalene.

The Cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. This is how human hair becomes today in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations treated. These include cleaning the hair with Shampoos that care and regeneration with rinses and Cures and bleaching, dyeing and deforming the hair with coloring agents, tinting agents, waving agents and Styling preparations. There are funds for change or nuancing the color of the head hair a prominent role.

Not lastly by the heavy use of the hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by cleaning the hair with shampoos and environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect to. Such care products affect the natural Structure and properties of hair. So afterwards to such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combing of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair, as well as the outer structure of the hair smoothed be, which shows by an increased gloss, or the hair be protected against increased splitting.

It is therefore common for a long time, the hair of a special To undergo post-treatment. It will, usually in the form of a conditioner, the hair with special active ingredients, for example, quaternary ammonium salts or special ones Polymers, treated. This treatment will vary depending on the formulation the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair improves, the gloss increases and the splitting rate reduced.

Farther have recently become so-called combination preparations designed to reduce the overhead of the usual multi-stage process, especially when used directly by consumers.

These Preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example, to clean the hair, in addition to active ingredients, which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; simultaneously The packaging costs are reduced because one product is less used becomes.

The available drugs for both separate aftertreatment agents as well as for combined preparations generally act preferentially on the hair surface. Thus, active substances are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, give better wet or dry combabilities or prevent the splits. As important as the outer one However, the appearance of the hair is the inner structural cohesion of hair fibers, especially in oxidative and reductive processes as coloring and perms are strongly influenced can.

The However, known active ingredients may not meet all needs cover adequately. It therefore persists a need for drugs or drug combinations for cosmetic products with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye and / or electrolyte-containing Formulations there is a need for additional caring Active ingredients that easily incorporate into known formulations to let.

Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. In relevant dermatological journals, reports of increasing intolerance in broad sections of the population are piling up on everyday products. These intolerances are based, among other things, on the changing consumer habits and the availability of the most exotic raw materials and foods in daily use. Consumers are therefore often advised, for example, in their diet of local products to serve. Therefore, a particularly great challenge for the cosmetics chemist is to develop cosmetics for the cleansing and care of skin and hair preferably from particularly compatible and already well-proven raw materials. Particular attention is paid to the specific selection of selected raw materials, which can fulfill multifunctional tasks in the formulation, so that as few ingredients as possible are contained in one formulation. The fewer ingredients in a formula, the better these ingredients are known, the lower the risk of intolerance. If, in exceptional cases, a hypersensitive reaction should occur, the allergist may very quickly become irritating due to the small number of ingredients determine the substance for this consumer. The cosmetics are thus safer overall in use and in the compatibility for the consumer.

Searched are therefore as nourishing agents in particular already in cosmetic Means long used ingredients, which are characterized by to distinguish a particularly good compatibility. simultaneously However, the spectrum of action and the property profile may be the cosmetic composition through the use of mild and particularly well-tolerated ingredients not alter the conventional compositions adversely. This is further complicated by the fact that in the inventive Consciously only uses as few ingredients as necessary necessary to be used.

fatty acids and their esters, in particular the mono-, di- and triglycerides of Fatty acids are numerous in cosmetic compositions used. Among fatty acids are in particular saturated and unsaturated, branched and unbranched carboxylic acids with a C chain length of C8 to C30 understood. This is a great variety of connections that are still going through the availability of natural oils like Sunflower oil or rapeseed oil further increased becomes. On top of that, with the natural oils Frequently admixtures exist to a not inconsiderable extent which are detrimental to the reproducible formulability and the stability of the compositions. Desirable would be an effective choice from the myriad of these compounds.

Surprisingly It has now been found that a mixture of a few fatty acids and / or their derivatives in the form of glycerides are excellent suitable to be synergistically effective in cosmetic compositions Component to be used.

The Fatty acids according to the invention and / or their glycerides of the active ingredient complex according to the invention are palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid and optionally additionally linolenic acid. Within the mixture of these fatty acids and / or their Glycerides need at least 50% by weight of the fatty acids and / or their glycerides from the fatty acids palmitic acid, Stearic acid and linoleic acid exist. Of course can the fatty acids according to the invention and / or glycerides also as a mixture of glycerides and fatty acids consist. It is preferred according to the invention if the greater part of the invention Fatty acid mixture in the form of glycerides is present. Of course are among glycerides in addition to the mono-, di- and triglycerides as well to understand the corresponding mixed di- and triglycerides. It is particularly preferred according to the invention if as glycerides natural oils are used. The natural oils can be uniform oils such as amaranth oil or even mixtures of different natural oils such as Olive oil and sea buckthorn oil.

For the inventively preferred case that the Fatty acids according to the invention and / or their glycerides as the first active component of the invention Active ingredient composition in the form of natural oils it should be noted that in the natural oil or the mixture of natural oils the sum the proportions of palmitic acid, stearic acid and Linoleic at least 50 wt .-% results. According to the invention however, also includes the missing shares when using a natural oils in the form of each missing Fatty acid and / or its glycerides in synthetic form add.

When natural oils come for example amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, Thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, Elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, Cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, Almond oil, Marula oil, Evening primrose oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, Sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, Sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or Rosehip Oil.

The following table shows the average wages in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention. Since the listed values are average values of the respective fatty acids, the sum of all fatty acids can also be greater or less than 100%. Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages. Table 1: Fatty Acid Salaries of Oils oil Palmitic acid (C16: 0) Palmitoleic acid (C16: 1) Stearic acid (C18: 0) Oleic acid (C18: 1) Linoleic acid (C18: 2) Linolenic acid (C18: 3) squalene Amaranth seed oil + 18 - 3 25 40 - 8th Apricot kernel oil 6 1 1 62 27 - - Argan oil + 12 - 5 45 35 - - avocado oil - 18 - 60 12 - - babassu 8th - 2 14 3 - - cottonseed 24 1 3 18 53 - - Borage seed oil + 11 - 4 17 38 21 - Camelina oil 6 - 3 19 16 38 Thistle oil + 7 0.2 3 15 75 - - Peanut oil + 10 4 41 36 - - Pomegranate seed oil 10 - 6 19 17 66 - Grapefruit seed oil + 8th 0.5 5 18 70 0.5 Hemp oil + 7 - 2 10 57 21 - Hazelnut oil + 5 - 2 75 15 - - Elderberry seed oil + 7 - 2 12 42 35 - Currant seed oil + 7 - 1 13 44 27 - jojoba oil 3 1 - 10 - - - Cocoa butter + 26 - 35 35 3 - - linseed oil 5 0.5 4 22 17 52 - macadamia nut oil 9 19 3 60 2 - - Corn oil 13 0.5 2 31 50 2 - almond oil 8th 1 2 70 22 - - marula 11 - 7 75 4 - - Evening primrose oil + 7 - 2 7 71 10 - olive oil 12 1 3 73 10 - 3 Palm oil + 42 5 41 10 - - rapeseed oil 4 1 60 20 9 - rice oil 42 37 4 Sea buckthorn oil 33 35 1 26 7 2 - Sea buckthorn seed oil 8th - 2 21 34 30 - Sesame oil + 11 - 4 39 42 - - shea butter - - 40 48 - - - Soybean oil + 10 5 21 53 8th Sunflower oil + 6 4 28 61 - - Tea seed oil 65-85 Grapeseed oil + 7 - 3 25 63 - - Walnut oil + 8th - 3 17 60 12 Wheat germ oil 16 - 1 17 57 7 - Wild Rose Oil + 4 - 2 15 46 33 -

preferred Natural oils contain at least all fat printed fatty acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Especially preferred natural oils The fatty acids contain palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of fatty acids. A plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table, these are particularly preferred natural oils. All particularly preferred oils are still characterized by an additional content of squalene. Maximum preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a proportion of linolenic acids.

Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that at least two of those listed in the table above natural oils can be mixed together. In this case, the natural oils however, be selected such that the sum of the fatty acids Palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids results. Preferred mixtures of natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, Amaranth seed oil with shea butter, Amaranth seed oil with camelina oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, Amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, with olive oil Camelina oil, olive oil with shea butter, macadamia nut oil and at least one seabuckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil with Shea butter. More than at most three of the natural oils but should not be mixed together.

Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and is therefore intended to be described in more detail by way of example become. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It applies as the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it also "Das Gold the Berber "is called in. This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions is known.

Argan oil is the oil of the seed of the argan fruit. The argan tree, Argania Spinosa, is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fears with plum or olive-like Appearance can not be consumed. The tree can be several times bear fruit in the year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The cores are about three times as big as hazelnuts. The Cores are pitched to recover the seeds. These seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to win the oil. Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil. It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows by all known vegetable oils the strongest vitamin E. Activity. Furthermore, argan oil has a unique high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt .-%. This makes argan oil an excellent one suitable cooking oil and dietary supplements. And also in cosmetic compositions is argan oil due to its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated Used fatty acids. The meaning of argan oil continues to be based on the unique argan oil Sterols, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol. Argan oil contains from tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, composed as follows: approx. 40 to 60 mg of α-tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg of β-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg of δ-tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg of γ-tocopherol. The Ratio of unsaturated to saturated Fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1. The amount of sterols in argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil. The content of fatty acids is more than 99 wt .-%, of which more than 80 wt .-% unsaturated are. The fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: Palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated Fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, linoleic acid to 0.1% and gadoleic acid up to 0.5%. The amount of linoleic acid is in argan oil about three times higher than olive oil.

Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions. The Nor Africans use argan oil to rub their skin before visiting a steam bath. It penetrates quickly into the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling. Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging and is also used to prevent itching. In hair care, it is recommended for brittle and dry hair and hair loss.

One Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. Amaranth seed oil can easily be used in hair cleansing and -care agents are incorporated. In these compositions incorporated the treated hair remains with more shine as well as improved care properties, in particular improved Combing properties, more shine and an improved grip. Especially was found to be a hair cleanser based on Amaranth seed oil with minimal amounts of solubilizer gets by, while comparable other oils one clearly need higher amount of solubilizers, to a stable incorporation of the oil in the shampoo too guarantee. For example, can be the amaranth seed oil at a certain concentration at solubilizer stable and clear into a shampoo while working numerous other natural oils a phase separation exhibit.

The Lipid fraction of amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides. The linoleic acid provides besides oil and palmitic acid the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil In addition, however, myristic acid, stearic acid, Vaccenic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid in the fatty acid spectrum represented. Especially noteworthy is a special high proportion of squalene (6-12%) in amaranth seed oil, the in other conventional vegetable oils only in very low concentrations can be found. In addition, the amaranth seed oil is rich in numerous Vitamin E derivatives (including α-, β-, γ- and δ-tocopherol and α- and β-tocotrienol) and has a notable proportion of the phytosterols Δ7-avenasterol, Δ7-campesterol, Δ7-sitosterol and Δ7-stigmasterol. An inventively suitable oil is for example under the trade name "Amaranth Seed Oil "from the company Euro Ingredients available.

shea butter should serve as another example of natural oils be described in more detail. Shea butter according to the invention by no means but solely in mixture with at least another natural oil used so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, Stearic acid and linoleic acid at least 50% by weight results.

Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, iodine value 55 to 67, unsaponifiable 2 to 11%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 ° C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin. The essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, α- and β-amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of α- and β-amyrin are as follows:

The structure of Lupeol is as follows:

These Phytosterols of shea butter are all triterpenes with more than 15 C atoms. Finally, in the shea butter, too a proportion of waxes available.

shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in care products used for the skin. However, it is also in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratin fibers.

It However, there are no known in the art writings or Compositions even the slightest indication of the invention Combination of active ingredients containing palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, Stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, being within the mixture of these Fatty acids and / or their glycerides at least 50% by weight fatty acids and / or their glycerides from the fatty acids Palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid must exist.

Surprisingly It was found that such a drug combination in quite an excellent way to make cosmetic compositions to produce with a significantly increased compatibility. Furthermore, in these compositions may also be due to synergistic Effects between the ingredients on as particularly irritating known ingredients, such as perfume oils or Preservatives are completely or partially omitted. To the further significantly improved cosmetic effects include the positive influence on the combability and the grip wet and dry hair, shine of hair, manageability and the durability of hairstyles, the restructuring of with UV light and / or oxidative processes damaged hair, the Reduction of hair splitting, reduction of damage of the hair due to heat such as blow drying, an increased Deposition of substances desired on the hair such as Anti-dandruff agents, polymers, vitamins, protein hydrolysates or other hair-enhancing raw materials such as Silicones, influencing the moisture retention capacity of cosmetic compositions, and a preservative-supporting one Effect in the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions. A significant advantage in using the However, the combination of active ingredients according to the invention the maintenance of the natural lipid mantle and Lipid content of the keratinic fibers themselves under the influence of surface-active agents or, in particular, under the influence of oxidative compositions on keratinic fibers.

The Active ingredient combination used in the invention thus significantly improves the essential synergistically internal and external structural features and strength as well as the elasticity and gloss of keratinic fibers.

In a most preferred embodiment the active ingredient complex of the invention further Squalene. Squalene comes in large quantities in the shark liver in front. In smaller quantities, it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils found. Also in the natural lipid coat Keratinic fibers contain squalene. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and thus according to the invention highest can be preferably used, Table 1 to the Pages are taken earlier. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.

[(all-E)-2,6,10,15,19,23-Hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaen, Spinacen]

[(all-E) -2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaene, spinacene]

In this most preferred drug combination, squalene is used in proportion to the combination of the fatty acids in an amount of 1: 1000. A ratio of 1: 100 is preferred. Especially be Preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio of 1:50, most preferably of 1:20 and most preferably of 1:10 and most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5.

In containing the active ingredient combination according to the invention Palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, Linoleic acid and linolenic acid, characterized that within the mixture of these fatty acids and / or their glycerides at least 50 wt .-% of the fatty acids and / or their glycerides from the fatty acids palmitic acid, Stearic acid and linoleic acid must exist, is the active ingredient combination according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.01 up to 20% by weight, more preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-% each based on the total composition.

Under According to the invention keratinic fibers are furs, Wool, feathers and especially human hair understood.

One The first object of the present invention are therefore cosmetic Compositions containing a combination of active substances Palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid, characterized in that within the mixture of these fatty acids and / or their glycerides at least 50 wt .-% of the fatty acids and / or their glycerides from the Fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid must exist

One The second object of the present invention are cosmetic compositions containing a combination of active ingredients containing palmitic acid, Palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, Linoleic acid, and linolenic acids, characterized that within the mixture of these fatty acids and / or their glycerides at least 50 wt .-% of the fatty acids and / or their glycerides from the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid must exist.

One third subject of the present invention are also cosmetic Agent containing this active substance complex and at least one other Active ingredient selected from the cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers.

The further constituents of the compositions according to the invention will be described below. It is based on the respective synergistic Components of the active substance complex according to the invention in the description of the respective raw material received.

One Ingredient, which in almost all cosmetic compositions Uses are surface-active substances. The Surfactants include substantially two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.

The term surfactants (E) is understood to mean surface-active substances which can form adsorption layers on upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994" , The following surfactants are exclusively known compounds. Regarding the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH2-CH2O)x-CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, sind seit langem bekannte, hautfreundliche oberflächenaktive Stoffe, die durch Veresterung von Fettsäuren mit dem Natriumsalz der 2-Hydroxyethan-sulfonsäure (Isethionsäure), z.B. nach dem Verfahren, das in US 3,320,292 beschrieben ist, zugänglich sind. Wenn man für diese Veresterung Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen, also z.B. Laurin-, Myristin-, Palimitin- oder Stearinsäure oder auch technische Fettsäurefraktionen, z.B. die aus Kokosfettsäure erhältliche C₁₂-C₁₈-Fettsäurefraktion einsetzt, erhält man die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt geeigneten C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylisethionate. Es ist bekannt, die Natriumsalze von C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylisethionaten ähnlich wie Seifen auf Fettsäurebasis durch Kneten, Pilieren, Strangpressen, Extrudieren, Schneiden und Stückpressen in eine geeignete Form für den Transport und für die Anwendung zu bringen. Auf diese Weise lassen sich Nadeln, Granulate, Nudeln, Riegel und handliche Toilettenseifen-Stücke erzeugen.
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen. Die Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl(C₈-C₂₄)ester-dinatriumsalze werden nach bekanntem Verfahren z.B. dadurch hergestellt, daß man Maleinsäureanhydrid mit einem Fettalkohol mit 8-24 C-Atomen zum Maleinsäuremonoester des Fettalkohols umsetzt und diesen mit Natriumsulfit zum Sulfobernsteinsäureester sulfitiert. Besonders geeignete Sulfobernsteinsäureester leiten sich von Fettalkoholfraktionen mit 12-18 C-Atomen ab, wie sie z.B. aus Kokosfettsäure oder Kokosfettsäuremethylester durch Hydrierung zugänglich sind.
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030 ,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354 ,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344 ,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
• –
  
• – in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II)in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
• – in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-B1 0 561 825 , der EP-B1 0 561 999 , der DE-A1 42 04 700 oder von A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) und F.U.Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990) beschrieben worden sind,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes. Diese werden durch Kondensation von C8-C30 Fettsäuren, bevorzugt von Fettsäuren mit 12-18 C-Atomen mit Aminosäuren, Mono-, Di- und wasserlöslichen Oligopeptiden und Gemischen solcher Produkte hergestellt, wie sie bei der Hydrolyse von Proteinen anfallen. Diese Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsprodukte werden mit einer Base neutralisiert und liegen dann bevorzugt als Alkali-, Ammonium-, Mono-, Di- oder Trialkanolammoniumsalz vor. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, Acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid), for example by the method described in US 3,320,292 is described, are accessible. If fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms, for example lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic acid or else technical fatty acid fractions, for example the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid, are used for this esterification, preference is given according to the invention suitable C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates. It is known that the sodium salts of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and for use to bring. In this way, needles, granules, noodles, bars and handy toilet soap pieces can be produced.
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by a known method, for example, by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to the maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and this sulfited with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as are obtainable, for example, from coconut fatty acid or coconut fatty acid methyl ester by hydrogenation.
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 .
• - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether according to DE-A-37 23 354 .
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344 .
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
• -
  
• In which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906.5 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
• - In which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total is 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described for example in the EP-B1 0 561 825 , of the EP-B1 0 561 999 , of the DE-A1 42 04 700 or from AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990) have been described
• Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044 are described
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

In It is the compositions of the invention particularly advantageous when anionic surfactants as mild anionic Surfactants are used. In particular, by the mild described below anionic surfactants will effect the invention Composition significantly increased.

Under the term "mild surfactants" the expert understands surfactants, which can be found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral red test, the BUS model (bovine udder skin model), the human skin model, the ZeiTest, the Draize Test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringkammertest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants. Common to all test models is that in principle is measured against a standard on which the measurement results are obtained. In each of these test models there there is a threshold below that of "mild surfactants" is spoken. This threshold is for example in the HET-CAM test 1.5. That means that as "mild" all Surfactants are called, for example, in the HET-CAM test a relative irritation scores of 1.5 and smaller. The expert know that one surfactant in each test model is another Score results. This means that, for example, a Cocamidopropylbetain even "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more mild Surfactants is attributed. A common and recognized Classification defines anionic surfactants as mild when used in the HET-CAM test have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5. According to the invention preferred However, such anionic surfactants as "mild anionic Surfactants "are used and understood in all currently known Test models can be classified as "mild".

• – Acyllactylate,
• – Hydroxymischethersulfate,
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist und deren Salze,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, sind seit langem bekannte, hautfreundliche oberflächenaktive Stoffe, die durch Veresterung von Fettsäuren mit dem Natriumsalz der 2-Hydroxyethan-sulfonsäure (Isethionsäure) zugänglich sind. Wenn man für diese Veresterung Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen, also z.B. Laurin-, Myristin-, Palimitin- oder Stearinsäure oder auch technische Fettsäurefraktionen, z.B. die aus Kokosfettsäure erhältliche C₁₂-C₁₈-Fettsäurefraktion einsetzt, erhält man die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt geeigneten C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylisethionate. Es ist bekannt, die Natriumsalze von C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylisethionaten ähnlich wie Seifen auf Fettsäurebasis durch Kneten, Pilieren, Strangpressen, Extrudieren, Schneiden und Stückpressen in eine geeignete Form für den Transport und für die Anwendung zu bringen. Auf diese Weise lassen sich Nadeln, Granulate, Nudeln, Riegel und handliche Toilettenseifen-Stücke erzeugen.
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen. Die Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl(C₈-C₂₄)ester-dinatriumsalze werden nach bekanntem Verfahren z.B. dadurch hergestellt, daß man Maleinsäureanhydrid mit einem Fettalkohol mit 8-24 C-Atomen zum Maleinsäuremonoester des Fettalkohols umsetzt und diesen mit Natriumsulfit zum Sulfobernsteinsäureester sulfitiert. Besonders geeignete Sulfobernsteinsäureester leiten sich von Fettalkoholfraktionen mit 12-18 C-Atomen ab, wie sie z.B. aus Kokosfettsäure oder Kokosfettsäuremethylester durch Hydrierung zugänglich sind.
• – Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
  
  in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – Glycerinethersulfate wie Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III),
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes. Diese werden durch Kondensation von C8-C30 Fettsäuren, bevorzugt von Fettsäuren mit 12-18 C-Atomen mit Aminosäuren, Mono-, Di- und wasserlöslichen Oligopeptiden und Gemischen solcher Produkte hergestellt, wie sie bei der Hydrolyse von Proteinen anfallen. Diese Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsprodukte werden mit einer Base neutralisiert und liegen dann bevorzugt als Alkali-, Ammonium-, Mono-, Di- oder Trialkanolammoniumsalz vor. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich,
• – Acylglutamate und
• – Acylaspartate.

According to these test methods, the following anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

• Acyl lactylate,
• Hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and salts thereof,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, have long been known, skin-friendly surfactants which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms, for example lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic acid or else technical fatty acid fractions, for example the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid, are used for this esterification, preference is given according to the invention suitable C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates. It is known that the sodium salts of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and for use to bring. In this way, needles, granules, noodles, bars and handy toilet soap pieces can be produced.
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by a known method, for example, by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to the maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and this sulfited with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as are obtainable, for example, from coconut fatty acid or coconut fatty acid methyl ester by hydrogenation.
• Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
  
  in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Glycerol ether sulfates such as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III),
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - amide ether carboxylic acids,
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® has long been in the trade,
• Acylglutamates and
• - Acyl aspartates.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Fatty alcohol ether sulfates with a turned Furthermore, in the case of mild anionic surfactants with polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants polyglycol ether with no restricted homologue distribution may be, for example, also obtained if one part, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples include the Handelsprokt Texapon ASV ^®.

Of course can all mild and anionic mentioned so far and in the following Surfactants can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are each in the form of lithium, magnesium, Zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group in front. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, Monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, Dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium, monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, Triisopropylammonium, monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium, tributylammonium, Monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, Mono-t-butyl-ammonium, di-t-butyl-ammonium, tri-t-butyl-ammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as methyl ethyl ammonium, Dimethyl ethyl ammonium, methyl diethyl ammonium, methyl propyl ammonium, Methyl-ethyl-propyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisopropylammonium, ethyl-dibutyl-ammonium, Ethyl diisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course the teaching of the invention also not the others explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.

Further mild anionic surfactants which are very particularly preferably used in the composition according to the invention are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula ( I) derive RO- (G) _p (I) with the meaning
RC _6-22 alkyl or C _6-22 alkenyl,
G glycoside unit, which is derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms,
p number from 1 to 10.

Prefers The mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic Alkyl polyglycosides, the ether carboxylic acids, the acyl isethionates, the protein fatty acid condensates, the taurates, the sulfosuccinates, the fatty acid amide ether sulfates, the NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates (narrow range fatty alcohol ether sulfates), the acylglutamates and the acylasparaginates and their mixtures.

According to the invention especially preferred are the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, Acylisethionate and Taurate and mixtures thereof used.

All particularly preferred is the use of anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

Maximum preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

Become as a mild anionic surfactant mixtures of at least two different used mild anionic surfactants, so the mixing ratio these surfactants with each other at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Prefers is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, especially preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

It has been found according to the invention that the use of mild anionic surfactants and in particular of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates in agents for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular in hair cleansing and conditioning agents a reduction in skin irritation leads. Further, it has been found that in the use of such agents, the color stability of the dyeing by co-use of the mild anionic surfactants, in particular the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionate is improved. In particular, this effect is achieved when used on damaged hair. Also, the wash fastness of dyed damaged hair is improved.

About that In addition, it has been found according to the invention that Use of mild anionic surfactants, in particular the alkyl and / or Alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates in Means for cleaning and care in the application of these agents the foaming is significantly improved. The foam is drawing especially by a fine-pored, dense, creamy appearance out. The foam is as soft and supple and light described redistributable. At the same time the foam is firm and good tangible. He shows a certain stamina and runs not spontaneously but only after a few minutes. This favors the already described easy spreadability of the foam. These Effects occur in the compositions according to the invention in particular by the combination with cationic and / or amphoteric Polymers on.

In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -OC _1-12 -alkenyl-COOM, -OSO ₃ M, -OP (O) (OM) ₂ or -O- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ M replaced with M = H, alkali metal, NH ₄ or one of the aforementioned counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium.

In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -OC _1-12 -alkylene-COOM-O (CH ₂ -) _n COOM with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferred is the radical O-CH ₂ -COONa.

Particular preference is given to using an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ^® LCG Cognis Germany.

In The alkyl glycosides of the general formula (I) derive the glycoside units G preferably from aldoses or ketoses.

Preferably become the reducing because of the better responsiveness acting saccharides, the aldoses used. Under the aldoses comes because of its easy accessibility and technical Availability in particular the glucose into consideration. The alkyl glycosides used as starting materials particularly preferably are therefore the alkylglucosides.

The Index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given Connection must always be integer and above all the values p = 1 to 6, the value p is for a given one Alkyl glycoside an analytical calculated arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably Alkyl glycosides with a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 used up to 3.0. Particularly preferred are those alkyl glycosides, whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and in particular between 1.1 and 1.4.

Of the Alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols with 6 bis 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol as well as technical fractions, in addition to the mentioned saturated Alcohols also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols can and are based on natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, Coconut oil or beef tallow are obtained. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.

Next The said fatty alcohols, the alkyl glycosides can also of synthetic primary alcohols with 6 to 22 Derived carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40 wt .-% branched isomers.

Especially preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Give mixtures of the alkyl radicals in a production based on natural fats and oils or mineral oils.

method for the preparation of these alkyl glycosides have long been the expert known.

The preparation of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates used according to the invention, Phosphates, sulfates or isethionates can be prepared by known methods. The carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it can be reacted with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH ₂ -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock. Preferably, the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH ₂ -OH group, optionally with an agent capable of reacting one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring.

Further For example, hydroxyl groups may also be etherified.

The Preparation of isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products can be used for hair and body care. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described, the Alkyloligoglykosidisethionate and for example other anionic Containing surfactants.

The Production of the sulfates is also carried out by known methods. Furthermore, mixtures of APG sulphates with i.a. Alkyl sulfates or Alkyl ether sulfates and other ingredients described. It is stated that the surfactant mixtures used in products Can be used for washing, dyeing, rippling or to rinse hair.

The Preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the State of the art. For example, the corresponding alkyl glycoside with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid, followed by neutralization. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical Preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.

After all are detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates described, for example, in hair conditioners, hair dyes or hair waving agents can be used.

The used according to the invention mild anionic Surfactants and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, Sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are in abundance from 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt .-% used

The used mild anionic surfactants and particularly preferred the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, Phosphates and / or isoethionates may be used in these agents completely or partially replace the usual anionic surfactants. Thus, the mildness of the invention anionic surfactants as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions can be used, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants with each other or with other usual anionic surfactants are used. This usual anionic surfactants are closer to later explained. For example, the mild anionic Surfactants and other anionic surfactants in a weight ratio in the range of 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 and most preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5 available.

The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants show a synergistic Effect with the active ingredient combination according to the invention. This synergistic effect may be due to an increased separation of the two active ingredients the surface of the skin and hair, resulting in the whole makes the cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair noticeable. The special charge effects of amphoteric and zwitterionic Surfactants seem to play a role here. The hair becomes, for example better combed both in the dry and in the wet state, easier to style and shows more shine and a more pleasant Handle.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^{( -)} or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the Kokosacylaminoethyl-hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I)in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II)in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Stellvertretend für das umfangreiche Schrifttum sei hier auf die Obersichtsarbeit von Biermann et al. in Starch/Stärke 45, 281 (1993) , B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) sowie J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) verwiesen. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d.h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nicht-ionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III),
  
  in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können. Hinsichtlich der Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung sei auf die US-Patentschriften US 1,985,424 , US 2,016,962 und US 2,703,798 sowie die Internationale Patentanmeldung WO 92/06984 verwiesen. Eine Übersicht zu diesem Thema von H.Kelkenberg findet sich in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988) . Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R⁷CO-(NR⁶)-CH₂-[CH(OH)]₄-CH₂OH (E4-IV) Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. derer technischer Mischungen steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as the hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature is here on the supervisor of Biermann et al. in Starch / Strength 45, 281 (1993) . B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) such as J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) directed. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between While p in the single molecule must always be an integer and above all can assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),
  
  R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the methods of their manufacture, reference may be made to U.S. Patents US 1,985,424 . US 2,016,962 and US 2,703,798 as well as the International Patent Application WO 92/06984 directed. An overview of this topic from H.Kelkenberg is found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988) , Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ⁷ CO- (NR ⁶ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH)] ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The Sugar surfactants can be used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based on the total Means be included. Amounts of 0.5-15 wt .-% are preferred, and very particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.

Further typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.

When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid as well as the sugar surfactants proved. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.

These Connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such Examples of alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-Lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd predominate Number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are mixtures understood by homologues who are involved in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, Alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates as catalysts be used. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

As additives for further improving the creaminess of the foam and the feel on the skin during and after use, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which may be recommended for preparing the compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1 -20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18. Such products can -C ₁₈ fatty acids or fatty acid prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to fatty alcohols, for example having 6-30 carbon atoms, with fatty acids having 6-30 C-atoms, or with glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial esters based on C _12th The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, for example to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship HLB = 1/5 × (100 wt% L), wherein wt .-% L is the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, that is, for example, to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 C atoms in the surfactant molecule.

The cationic surfactants (E5) form the last group of surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that, like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, they contribute to a distinctly improved cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair. The cationic charge ensures a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces, especially of damaged hair or stressed skin. On the long fat residues of these molecular structures, in turn, more hydrophobically structured active ingredients can accumulate. As a result, an overall increased deposition of care substances on the surface of skin and hair is effected. For example, the hair is easier to comb, easier to style both in the dry and in the wet state and shows more shine and a pleasant grip. Cationic surfactants (E5) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ) ⁺ with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and those listed under INCI-Be drawings quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.

According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

When Further cationic surfactants may be the inventive At least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring, contain. The following formula (E5-V) shows the Structure of these compounds.

The Radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical with one chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of Formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred are compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms, and most preferably with at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred Compound of formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms on. A commercial product of this chain length is, for example known as Quaternium-91. In the formula (E5-V) is shown as a counterion methosulfate. According to the invention However, as counterions, the halides such as chloride, fluoride, Bromide, or phosphates.

The Imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably in Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%. The best results will be in this case with amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% in each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, but they may Of course, also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions of the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Lanoquat ^® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are preferred in amounts in the compositions used according to the invention from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the inventive Compositions should be used as shampoos.

The Surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30 Wt .-% and most preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, based on the entire agent used in the invention, used.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994" , Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1-5 wt .-% proved. This is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester, as described in US Pat DE-PS 11 65 574 is described in more detail. The addition of such mixed esters achieves a particularly creamy, fine-bubble foam and a pleasant feel on the skin when using the body cleanser.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total mean.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, contained definitions Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention preferred Emulsifiers are the so-called mild emulsifiers. The mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by different methods. For this purpose, for example the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model used. all Testing method in common is that in principle against a standard is measured to which the results are related.

• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III),
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes,
• – Zwitterionische Tenside (E2),
• – Ampholytische Tenside (E3),
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- oder Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß der Formel (E4-II),
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide gemäß der Formel (E4-III),
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II),
• – Esterquats,
• – Alkylamidoamine und quaternierte Alkylamidoamine.
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z.B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z.B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z.B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),

According to these test methods, the following preferred emulsifiers have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (E1-III),
• Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044 are described
• Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,
• - zwitterionic surfactants (E2),
• - ampholytic surfactants (E3),
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the formula (E4-II),
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type according to the formula (E4-III),
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),
• - Esterquats,
• - Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - Sterols, Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

In the preferred case according to the invention that the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions should be improved, the particularly mild emulsifiers in the compositions be preferably used. In these cases, the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates in amounts below 8 wt .-%, preferably less than 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably less than 2.5 wt .-% are used. Most preferably, these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free from" in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so "free from" preferably means smaller as 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably less than 0.1 wt .-%.

It It is known that oil-in-water emulsions, henceforth Called O / W emulsions made with nonionic emulsifiers and stabilized, when heated, a phase inversion suffer, that is, at higher temperatures, the external, aqueous phase can become the inner phase. This The process is usually reversible, that is, during the Cool back the original emulsion type regresses. It is also known that the location phase inversion temperature (PIT) depends on many factors is, for example, the type and phase volume of the oil component, from the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or composition of the emulsifier system. Furthermore, it is known that emulsions, produced at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature be characterized by special stability and fineness while those above the phase inversion temperature are produced, are less finely divided. Emulsions at At a certain temperature phase inversion suffer PIT emulsions called. These PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention because it is due to the just enough amount of emulsifier contain significantly less emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but especially mild and gentle on the skin and the hair. Be in the PIT emulsions and ionic surfactants used as emulsifiers, then these are particularly preferred only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the Cooling process added to the PIT emulsion.

To the synergist of the combination of active substances according to the invention in the compositions of the invention cationic and amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymer. polymers are used in cosmetic compositions of a variety of Reasons used. Here are also nonionic polymers used.

in the The following are some examples of particularly preferred polymers described. The distinction of the invention used Polymers may be due to the charges of the polymers and / or due to their application-specific particularly pronounced Properties are made. The expression "particularly pronounced Properties "reflects the fact that polymers in the general combine several properties in one molecule. Often, however, one of the features is very special in the foreground and is just for the selection of this polymer prevail.

First Polymers are described by their respective charges.

Under Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which are used in the Main and / or side chain have a group which "temporarily" or "permanent" can be cationic. To be "permanently cationic" According to the invention refers to such polymers, the regardless of the pH of the agent, a cationic group exhibit. These are usually polymers that are quaternary Nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Especially those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a C1-4 hydrocarbon group on one of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof built polymer backbone are bound, have proved to be particularly suitable.

Further Cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group, at certain pH levels as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.

The cationic polymers according to the invention can both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or avivierende polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or be thickening properties. For the suitable cationic Polymers are preferably hair-setting and / or Hair conditioning polymers. Among polymers are both natural as well as synthetic polymers which are cationic or amphoteric can be loaded, to understand.

These two groups of polymers share a potentially cationic charge. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore by their cationic charge density to be characterized. The polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least 3 meq / g to 7 meq / g.

One another characteristic feature of the invention Polymers is their molecular weight. Below the molecular weight of the respective polymer is the molecular weight understood by the manufacturer in the corresponding Datasheets measured by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer has a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u as being suitable according to the invention proved. Have polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u proved to be particularly suitable. Polymers with one molecular weight of more than 1000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.

The Deposition of polymers from surfactant solutions at the Surface of keratinous fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not complete until today Understood. The selection of suitable polymers shown above takes place in the prior art already after the previously shown Charge density or molecular weight criteria.

Chooses now the polymers according to the prior art so those polymers that fulfill both criteria should actually be the most suitable. This is not the case.

All contain known adsorption equations of physical chemistry Proportionality constants, which in connection with the degree of occupancy of the surface. Without the exact could know, however, scientific background the occupancy rate of the surface keratinischer fibers with an adsorption probability of the invention Related polymers. Define the adsorption probability as the product of the cationic charge density and the molecular weight, Thus, this product for the targeted selection of suitable inventive Polymers are used.

suitable Polymers for the product are from the cationic charge density and the molecular weight is greater than 100,000 on. Particularly suitable are polymers which are suitable for this Product have a value of at least 200,000. Most notably suitable are those polymers in which this product a Value greater than 250,000. Most appropriate are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.

Prefers are those polymers that have sufficient solubility in water or alcohol to in the inventive Means completely complete when using on damp to wet hair to go into solution.

The cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups in either the Polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more the monomers are contained. The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers be. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which contain at least one carry cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as Pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon Salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower Alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, especially preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The Ammonium group-containing monomers can not with be cationized cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, Alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, Vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, particularly preferred are C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

suitable For example, polymers with quaternary amine groups are in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium described polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary End groups (Quaternium-80).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.

in der R¹ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹ is a methyl group
• - R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers having amino groups are known by the INCI name amodimethicones. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal. The N-containing silicone cationic polymer of the present invention may preferably be selected from the group consisting of siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.

wobei R = OH oder CH₃; X = Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, vorzugsweise Propyl oder Isopropyl und A, B und C = Copolymereinheiten, die taktische und/oder ataktische Polymerblöcke ausbilden können, sind.According to the invention, preference is given to the use of an aminosiloxane corresponding to the following general formula (G1-II),

wherein R = OH or CH ₃ ; X = alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl, and A, B and C = copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks.

Amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids are most preferred according to the invention. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow ^Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow ^Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow ^Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning ^® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, and glycol; Dow Corning ^® 2-8194 Microemulsion (26%) are based on an amine functional silicone polymer; Dow Corning ^® 2-8177 Microemulsion (12%) are based on an amine functional silicone polymer; Dow Corning ^® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine functional polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.

The Molecular weight of the aminosilicone is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.

The Silicone as cationic polymer according to the invention is in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-% based on the total Agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and very particularly preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (G1-III) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X ^-
G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene,
Polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R _a , R _b and R _c independently of one another are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl, each having up to 18 C atoms, where the total number of C atoms in R _a ,
R _b and R _{c is} preferably at most 20;
X ^- is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® and L 200 are the commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, which contain the - idealized - monomer unit (I):

in the Contrary to most hydrocolloids, which are biological pH values are negatively charged, put chitosans under these conditions cationic biopolymers.

The positively charged chitosans can be counteracted charged surfaces interact and become therefore in cosmetic hair and body care products too used as a film former. In addition to chitosans, there are also quaternised, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form. The insert can also be in Form of aqueous gels with a solids content in Range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.

to Chitosans are produced by chitin, preferably the Shell remnants of crustaceans made as inexpensive raw materials be available in large quantities. The chitin is usually first by adding deproteinated by bases, by addition of mineral acids demineralized and finally by adding strong ones Bases are deacetylated, with molecular weights over one broad spectrum can be distributed.

• (a) frische Krustentierschalen mit verdünnter wäßriger Mineralsäure behandelt,
• (b) das resultierende demineralisierte erste Zwischenprodukt mit wäßriger Alkalihydroxidlösung behandelt,
• (c) das resultierende geringfügig deproteinierte zweite Zwischenprodukt erneut mit verdünnter wäßriger Mineralsäure behandelt,
• (d) das resultierende decalcifizierte dritte Zwischenprodukt schließlich mit konzentrierter wäßriger Alkalilauge behandelt und dabei bis zu einem Gehalt von 0,05 bis 0,5 und insbesondere 0,15 bis 0,25 Mol Acetamid pro Mol Monomereinheit deacetyliert, und
• (e) gegebenenfalls einer Druck/Temperaturnachbehandlung zur Einstellung der Viskosität unterwirft.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting

• (a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
• (b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with aqueous alkali hydroxide solution,
• (c) again treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
• (d) finally treating the resulting decalcified third intermediate with concentrated aqueous caustic while deacetylating to a level of from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25, mole of acetamide per mole of monomer unit, and
• (e) optionally subjected to a pressure / temperature post-treatment to adjust the viscosity.

at the chitosans to be used according to the invention it is completely or partially deacetylated Chitins. The molecular weight of chitosan can via a be widely distributed, for example, from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. Suitable, for example, is a low molecular weight Chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is over 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 up to 99%.

The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. In principle, all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids, such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyryl, can be used as the neutralizing agent rolidoncarbonsäure, hydrochloric acid, among others, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686 ,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex^® SF 40 angeboten werden.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Likewise, as cationic polymers can be used under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product eg Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to the DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The Hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of from about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the " International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropy l Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.

The cationic polymers are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.

at the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective as the sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid contain, wherein the sulfonic acid group completely or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mole percent acrylamide and 30 to 45 mole percent 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partially present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product urchins ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

The anionic polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

• – einer Verbindung (V1) mit mindestens 2 aktiven Wasserstoffatomen pro Molekül und
• – einem Di- oder Polyisocyanat (V2).

Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types,

• A compound (V1) having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and
• - A di- or polyisocyanate (V2).

at the compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, Diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols act. there become the compounds with more than 2 active hydrogen atoms usually only in small amounts in combination with a large excess Compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms used.

Examples for compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1,2- and 1,3-propylene glycol, Butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -propylene glycols, Copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane, Hexamethylenediamine and ☐, ☐-diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.

polyurethanes, in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols, may be preferred according to the invention. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols with molecular weights between 200 and 3000, especially between 1600 and 2500 have proved to be particularly suitable in individual cases.

polyesterols are usually by modification of the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.

When Compounds (V2) are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylenedi (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate.

Farther may be used in the invention Polyurethanes are still building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are especially suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. With regard to the further components there is no fundamental restriction whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks is.

For more information on the construction and manufacture of polyurethanes is expressly referred to the articles in the relevant reviews such Römpps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Enzyklopädie der technischen Chemie Referenced.

• – ausschließlich aliphatische Gruppen im Molekül
• – keine freien Isocyanatgruppen im Molekül
• – Polyether- und Polyesterpolyurethane
• – anionische Gruppen im Molekül.

Polyurethanes which can be characterized as follows have proven particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases.

• - Only aliphatic groups in the molecule
• - no free isocyanate groups in the molecule
• - Polyether and polyester polyurethanes
• - anionic groups in the molecule.

It has also proved to be advantageous in some cases, if the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system, but instead is stably dispersed.

Farther it has proved to be suitable for the production of the invention Means proved to be advantageous if the polyurethanes are not direct mixed with the other components, but in the form of aqueous dispersions were introduced. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45% and are also commercially available.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

amphoteric Polymers, like the cationic polymers, are very particular preferred polymers.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (G3-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵ A^(–) (G3-I)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (G3-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (G3-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

suitable Starting monomers are e.g. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and Diethylaminoethylacrylamid, if Z is an NH group or Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate, when Z is an oxygen atom.

The a tertiary amino group-containing monomers then quaternized in a known manner, using as alkylating reagents Methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous Solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, those monomers of the formula (G3-I) are used which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (G3-I) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very special one preferred monomer of the formula (G3-I).

When monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (G3-II) are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. Preference is given to acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular Acrylic acid, used.

The zwitterionic usable according to the invention Polymers are prepared from monomers of the formulas (G3-I) and (G3-II) prepared according to known polymerization. details Information on the polymerization process, the relevant Specialist literature be taken.

When Such polymers have proven particularly effective in which the monomers of the formula (G3-I) with respect to the monomers of the formula (G3-II) in excess. It is therefore preferred according to the invention, such polymers to be used, consisting of monomers of the formula (G3-I) and the monomers of the formula (G3-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 exist.

The amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Further inventively usable amphoteric polymers are those in the British Patent Application 2,104,091 , of the European Patent Application 47,714 , of the European Patent Application 217 274 , of the European Patent Publication 283,817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 mentioned compounds. Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are Methacroylethylbetain / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette ^® (AMERCHOL).

The agents according to the invention can be used in one further embodiment nonionogenic polymers (G4).

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol^® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nicht-ionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^® XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüch tige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200°C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred non-ionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones.

The Nonionic polymers are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.

According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is eg off EP 466 986 B1 known. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example, under the trade name Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, eg based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are with a particle size of 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos ( Atochem SA, Paris). Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.

The Polymer powders described above are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included. Amounts from 0.1 to 5 Wt .-% are particularly preferred.

polymers can be independent of their chemical structure and charge even after their function in cosmetic compositions be characterized. The description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions of the invention not necessarily a rating or meaning of this Polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle equivalent for use in the invention See compositions, although some of these polymers may be preferred. Furthermore, some polymers can be found due to the polyfunctionality of polymers in several Descriptions of different effects again. polymers which can cause several desired effects are therefore particularly preferred for use in the invention Compositions.

The Choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use the composition of the invention. So will for example, particularly preferably a film-forming cationic or amphoteric polymer selected when the composition to be used as a styling agent or strengthener.

There Polymers are often multifunctional, their Functions are not always clearly and clearly separated from each other become. In particular, this applies to film-making and festifying Polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers are to be exemplified to be discribed. However, it is explicitly referred to here that in the context of the present invention both film-forming and Firming polymers are essential. Because both properties are not completely independent from each other, are under the term "fixing polymers" always "film-forming Polymers "understood and vice versa.

To the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers counts the film formation. Among film-forming polymers are such polymers to understand which while drying a continuous film on the Skin, hair or nails. such Filmbildner can in the most different cosmetic Products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, Hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes be used. Particularly preferred are those polymers which sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be included in the agent according to the invention the application in completely dissolved form. Due to its pronounced property of film formation these polymers are in the agents according to the invention very particularly preferred. The use of at least one of these Polymers is therefore also completely according to the invention particularly preferred. The film-forming polymers can be of synthetic or natural origin.

Under Film-forming polymers are further inventively such Polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to deposit on the hair a transparent polymer film. The film-forming polymers can be both anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic, permanent cationic or temporary be cationically charged.

Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers:
Vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1- to C3-alkyl groups.

Suitable examples are homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ^® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or sea urchin ^® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, Ucon ^® Union Carbide sold under the trade names. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.

Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for example, cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso ^SI® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.

Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / HEMA / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethyl Hex yl Acrylates / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Propyl Trimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / TDI / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylates / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates / Diacetones Acrylamide / Hydroxypropyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Adipic Acid / CHDM / MA / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylene Glycol / Glycerol Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer , Adipic Acid / Fuma Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Albumen, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Aminoethyl Acrylates Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, Astragalus gum gum, Avena sativa (Oat) kernels l Protein, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Benzoguanamine / Formaldehyde / Melamine Crosspolymer, Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Pentaerythritol / Neopentyl Glycol / Palmitic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer, Butoxy Chitosan, Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Butylated Polyoxymethylene Urea, Butylated PVP, Butyl Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Trimethylolethane Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer , Butylethylpropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyl Methacrylate / DMAPA Acrylates / Vinylacetamide Crosspolymer, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, C5-6 Alkanes / Cycloalkanes / Terpene Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone / Polycyclohexenes Oxide Crosspolymer, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan , Carboxymethyl Chitosan Succinamide, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chitosan, Chitosan Adipate, Chitosan Ascorbate , Chitosan Formats, Chitosan Glycolate, Chitosan Lactate, Chitosan PCA, Chitosan Salicylate, Chitosan Succinamide, C5-6 Olefin / C8-10 Naphtha Olefin Copolymer, Collodion, Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Copal, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Corn Starch Modified, C6-14 perfluoroalkylethyl acrylate / HEMA copolymer, DEA-styrene e / Acrylates / DVB Copolymer, Dibutylhexyl IPDI, Didecyltetradecyl IPDI, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Diethylhexyl IPDI, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Diglycol / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine / IPDI Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Glycol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleyl Alcohol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylate, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / IPDI Copolymer,
Dimethylamine / Ethylene Diamine / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Dioctyldecyl IPDI, Dioctyldodecyl IPDI, Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethylcellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Calcium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / Magnesium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Zinc Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract, Fibroin / PEG-40 / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Flexible Collodion , Formaldehyde / melamine / tosylamide copolymer, galactoarabinane, glycereth-7 hydroxystearate / IPDI copolymer, glycerol / MA / rosin acid C Opolymer, Glycerin / Phthalic Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glycerol / Succinic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidyl C8-11 Acidate / Glycerol / Phthalic Anhydride Copolymer, Glycol Rosinate, Gutta Percha, Hexylene Glycol / Neopentyl Glycol / Adipic Acid / SMDI / DMPA Copolymer, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Hexyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Lauryl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Rosin, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Gadidae Protein, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer, Hydro Lyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylates / Butyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Acetate / Succinate, Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Isobutyl Methacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Isophorone Diamine / Cyclohexylamine / Isophthalic Acid / Azelaic Acid Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Pentaerythritol Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Ac id / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, 4,4'-Isopropylidenediphenol / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate / VA Copolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Maltodextrin, Mannan, Melia Azadirachta Conditioned Media / Culture, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methoxypolyoxymethylene Melamine, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Myroxylon Balsamum ( Balsam Tolu) Resin, Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Resin, Nitrocellulose, Nylon 12/6/66 Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Oxymethylene / Melamine Copolymer, Palmitic Acid / Pentaerythritol / Stearic Acid / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcoho L / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylate Copolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Pentaerythritol / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Cyclohexane Dicarboxylate, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phthalic Acid Denatured With Epoxy Resin Alkyd Resin, Phthalic Anhydride / Adipic Acid / Castor Oil / Neopentyl Glycol / PEG-3 / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Glycerin Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic An Hydrid / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene / Pentadiene Copolymer, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Polianthes Tuberosa Extract, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid, Polyacrylates-1, polyacrylates-2, polyacrylates-5, polyacrylates-6, polyacrylic acid, polyamides-1, polybeta-alanines, polybeta-alanines / glutaric acid crosspolymers, polybutyl acrylates, polybutylenes terephthalates, polychlorotrifluoroethylenes, polydiethylene glycol adipate / IPDI copolymer, polydimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates, polyester-1, polyester-2, polyester-3, polyethylacrylates, polyethylenes, polyethylenes naphthalates, polyethylene terephthalates, polyethylglutamates, polyethylmethacrylates, polyglucuronic acid, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearates / IPDI copolymer, polyisobutenes, polylysines, polymethacrylamides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polymethacrylic acid , Polymethyl acrylate e, polymethylglutamates, polymethyl methacrylates, polyoxyisobutylenes / methylene urea copolymer, polyoxymethylene melamines, polypentaerythrityl terephthalates, polypentenes, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, poly-p-phenylenes terephthalamides, polyphosphorylcholines glycol acrylates, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium- 18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquate rnium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-61, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-11, Polysilicone-14, Polystyrene, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-2, polyurethane-4, polyurethane-5, polyurethane-6, polyurethane-7, polyurethane-8, polyurethane-10, polyurethane-11, polyurethane-12, polyurethane-13, polyvinyl acetal, diethylaminoacetates, polyvinyl acetates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Caprolactam, Polyvinyl Chloride, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Isobutyl Ether, Polyvinyl Laurate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether, Potassium Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Potassium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-26 / HDI Copolymer, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA Copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG -7 / Succinic Acid Copolymer, PPG-26 / TDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, Propylene Glycol Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Pseudotsuga Menziesii (Balsam Oregon) Resin, Pullulan, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP, PVP Montmorillonite, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Quaternium-22, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin, Rubber Latex, Serum Albumin, Shellac, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium DVB / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium MA / Diisobutylene Copolymer, Sodium MA / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylate / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Starch / Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Diethylaminoethyl Ether, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone , Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Stearoyl Epoxy Resin, Stearyl HDI / PEG-50 Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrax Benzoin Gum, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene / Allyl Benzoate Copolymer, Styrene / DVB Crosspolymer, Styrene / Isoprene Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene / Methylstyrene / Indene Copolymer, Styrene / VA Copolymer, Styrene / VP Copolymer, sucrose Benzoate / sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate / butyl Benzyl Phthalate Copolymer, Sucros e Benzoates / Sucrose Acetates Isobutyrate / Butyl Benzyl Phthalates / Methyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetates Isobutyrate Copolymer, TEA Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, TEA Diricinoleates, TEA Diricinoleates / IPDI Copolymer, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonates / Glycol Copolymer, Tetradecyloctadecyl Behenates, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristates, Tetradecyloctadecyl Stearates, Titanium Isostearates, Tosylamides / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamides / Formaldehyde Resin, Tricontanyl PVP, Triethylene Glycol Rosinates, Trimethylol Propanes, Cyclohexenes Dicarboxylates, Trimethylolpropanes Triacrylates, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer , Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Cro Tonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl Maleate / Vi Nyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetate, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride / Vinyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethiconyl Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol ester, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / VA copolymer, welan gum, yeast beta-glucan, yeast polysaccharides, zein.

polymers which fix the hair, the so-called firming polymers, contribute to the maintenance and / or the development of the hair volume, the hair fullness the total hairstyle at. Film-forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment products like hair fixatives, hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays or leave-on conditioners. As such, they are preferably used in the compositions of the invention, when these are used in such compositions. substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair preferred because it dampens the tendency of the hair, so absorb water, reduce it. This is the flabby Drooping of the hair strands diminished and thus, a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation is guaranteed. As a test method for this is often the so-called Curl retention test applied. The use of at least one these polymers in the compositions of the invention is therefore preferred according to the invention. Most notably from this group of polymers, preference is given to those which additionally also have firming properties. However, it is also preferred according to the invention when in the compositions of the invention at least one setting and a film-forming polymer used become. Most preferably, when both polymers are simultaneously, although possibly in different forms have both firming and film-forming properties.

firming Polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or structure of the hair volume, the Hair fullness of the total hairstyle at. These so-called festifying Polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for hair treatment products such as hair fixatives, hair mousses, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and only a few Connect fibers together.

Because of the importance of just the strengthening polymers should therefore be explicitly listed in the form of their INCI name. In this List of the invention very particularly preferred therefore, it will be understood that the polymers to be used are especially the cationic polymers again.

Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are:
Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamides Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamides / Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer , Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, All yl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylate Copolymer, AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylate / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60 Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer , Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA Sulfites, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamides, Polyacrylates-6, Polybeta-Alanines / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylates, Po lyethylene terephthalate, polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium 11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium- 46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polysilicone-9, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral , Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methac Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylate Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylate Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate.

All Particularly preferred are acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Polyurethane-1, polyvinylcaprolactam and VP / VA copolymer.

The film-forming and / or setting polymer is in the inventive Composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10 weight percent. Of course, several film-forming and / or setting polymers in the inventive Be contained in the composition. These can be film-forming and / or setting polymers both permanently and temporarily cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric. Farther The present invention also includes the recognition that in the use of at least two film-forming and / or setting Of course these polymers charge different charges can have. According to the invention may be preferred be it when an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film forming and / or setting Polymer is used together. Also use at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or festifying Polymers are preferred. In the latter case, a particular embodiment in turn additionally at least one further amphoteric and / or containing nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.

After all the antistatic effect of polymers is another for cosmetic means essential function. With the help of electric Properties of these polymers are the surfaces of cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and affects keratinic fibers in their electrical potential. For example, in hair care this way is called the "fly-away effect" designated and on the electrostatic repulsion of Hair fiber based effect diminished. But also on the skin surface In this way the skin feeling is influenced. Some of these polymers develop their optimal effect in a certain pH range. In the invention Compositions are those of this group of polymers preferably, which at the same time also at least one of the groups attributable to the fixing and / or film-forming polymers. Of course, the inventive Teach also the knowledge that in the invention Compositions also each at least one antistatic, at least a fixing and at least one film-forming polymer used can be. However, it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers is at least two of the desired Features. Most preferred is according to the invention, if the polymer continues to be in addition to the three completely especially essential properties strengthening, fixation and film formation another property fulfilled.

Examples of such antistatic polymers are:
Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltri Monium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Gelatin / Lysine / Polyacrylamide Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Beta-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysates Hydroxypropyltrimon ium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Whey, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Laurdimonium Hydro xypropyl Wheat Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidine Acetate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG -2 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine , PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Am PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamines, PEG -2 Lauramine, PEG-5 Oleamine, PEG-15 Oleamine, PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1 / 25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG-5 Soyamine, PEG-8 Soyamine, PEG-10 Soyamine, PEG-15 Soyamine, PEG-2 Stearamine, PEG-5 Stearamine, PEG-10 Stearamine, PEG -15 Stearamines, PEG-50 Stearamines, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactates, PEG-10 Stearyl Benzonium Chlorides, PEG-6 Stearylguanidines, PEG-5 Tallow Amide, PEG-2 Tallow Amine, PEG-7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG-25 Tallow Amine, PE G-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-10 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfate, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chloride, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamine, PEG-3 Tallow Propylenedimonium Dimethosulfate, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride , PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9 , Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium -24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, P Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium- 54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-40 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-18 Methosulfates, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-56, Quaterni um-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-70, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83 , Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quaternium-89, Quaternium-90, Silicone Quaternium-2-Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein , Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyz ed Wheat Protein, Stemimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate.

Of course also include the emulsion-stabilizing polymers to the according to the invention preferred polymers. this includes are polymers to understand the construction and stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions) substantially support. Surfactants and emulsifiers are a matter of course the essential ingredients, however, bear the stabilizing Polymers by positively influencing the continuous or the disperse phase to reduce the coalescence of emulsified droplets. This positive influence can be on an electrical repulsion, an increase viscosity or filming on the droplet surface based. These properties of the polymers in question can also in the compositions according to the invention be particularly advantageously used to the inventive powdery compositions before and / or during use to dissolve the powder in water.

Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose , Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gu m, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12 -14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth -20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamines, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl guar, H ydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Alginate, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose , Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Pectin, PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Carnauba , PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG- 9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones, PEG / PPG -23/6 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8/3 Laurate, PEG / PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyethylene, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polygly ceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Dextrin Octenyl Succinate, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassi Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec- Pareth-9, PPG-2 tocophereth-5, PPG-5 tocophereth-2, PPG-10 tocophereth-30, PPG-20 tocophereth-50, PVM / MA copolymer, PVP, PVP / decene copolymer, PVP montmorillonite, Pyrus malus ( Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfate, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Alginate, Sodium / TEA undecylenoyl C arrageenan, sodium tocopheryl phosphates, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides, stearylvinyl ether / MA copolymer, sterculia urens gum, styrene / MA copolymer, sucrose polypalmate, synthetic beeswax, synthetic wax, tamarindus indica seed gum, TEA alginates, TEA dextrin octenylsuccinate, undecylenoyl inulin , Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

polymers can change the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations increase. In aqueous phases based their the viscosity-increasing function on their solubility in water or its hydrophilic nature. They are both surfactant as well as used in emulsion-shaped systems. Also this property of the polymers is in the invention Powders before and / or during the application of advantage.

The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems:
Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth- 20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonia Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate , C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Gelati Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylene Diamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp ), Magnesium Alginates, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Cellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroc Can Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Tristearate , PEG-140 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG- 115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, PEG-180 / Octoxynol-40 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylate-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadiene, Polyether-1, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquaternium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth 60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Flu orosilicate, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, sodium polymethacrylate, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, sodium silicoaluminate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, sodium stearoxy PG-hydroxyethyl cellulose sulfonate, sodium styrene / acrylate copolymer, sodium tauride acrylate / acrylic acid / acrylonitrogen copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginates, TEA Carbomer, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch.

A Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of non-aqueous Phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products. These are polymers used, which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids are. They are also used for gelation of cosmetic Agents with high lipid levels used. This also contributes essential to the excellent application of the invention Powder at. With these polymers is in an excellent way the Viscosity of the composition forming upon dissolution regulated.

The following are some of these polymers listed:
Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Beeswax, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer , Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18 -38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanoate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer , Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesteryl Stearates, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Corn Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Isobutylene / Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methylstyrene / Vinyl Tolene Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon 611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidiz ed Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG -20 Hydrogenated Castor PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG -5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycolic Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Polybutene, Polybutylene Terephthalate , Polycyclopentadienes, Polydipentenes, Polyethylenes, Polyethylene Terephthalates, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleates, Polyglyceryl-4 Polyri cinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglycerol-10 polyricinoleates, polyisobutenes, polyisoprenes, polypentenes, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoromethyl distearamides, polypropylenes, polysilicone-4, polysilicone-5, polysilicone-17, polystyrene, polyvinyl butyral, polyvinyl laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP / Decene Copolymer, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Carnauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoro Oxypropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluoropropyl Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer

Of course, microparticles filled or unfilled may also be used in the composition of the invention both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation. In this case, it may be particularly advantageous when polymers are incorporated as suspending aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:
Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonites, Biotites, Calcium Lignosulfonates , Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl Trimethicone Copolymer, Dimethylol Urea / Phenol / Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonates, Disteardimonium Hectorites, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearate, Hectorite, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolym he, isobutylene / MA copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, maltodextrin, methacryloyl ethyl betaine / acrylate copolymer, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, myristoyl / PCA chitin, nitrocellulose, PEG -18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEI-7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI-30, PEI 35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite, Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphates, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetates, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoates, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, Quaternium -18 Bentonite, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Silica Silylates, Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Dimaltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate / Butyl Benzyl Phthalate Copolymer, Tosylamide / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamide / Formaldehyde Resin, VP / Dimethylamino ethylmethacrylate copolymer, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecenes copolymer, VP / VA copolymer.

It It is also possible according to the invention that the used preparations several, in particular two different Polymers of the same charge and / or one ionic and one each containing amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

Further preferred polymers are all polymers which are used in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) as polymers in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers" or "hair fixatives" called and are commercially available. Reference is made expressly to this document and the sections cited therefrom.

It may also be advantageous in a preferred embodiment be at least one avivating and / or at least one film-making, consolidating polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer formulate. Among polymers are both natural and also synthetic polymers which are anionic, cationic, amphoteric charged or non-ionic. So the polymer (G) according to the invention can be both a setting and / or film-forming polymer as well as a polymer with conditioning or scavenging and / or thickening properties be.

The Polymers (G) are used in the invention Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included. Amounts from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

With particular advantage include the inventive Compositions fatty substances (D) as another active ingredient. In a particularly preferred embodiment contains the Composition according to the invention Active ingredient complex of argan oil and shea butter and a fatty substance. This composition increases the amount of active ingredients deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically increased Effects. This effect is through the further Use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as a deposition aid in the compositions according to the invention clearly increased. There is a change the charge of the surface, which for example by the measurement of the so-called Wilhelmy voltage can be measured.

Under Fatty substances (D) are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which are both solid Form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion can exist, and natural and synthetic understand cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Use amount is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the entire means. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, where very particularly advantageous amounts of 1- 5 wt .-% may be.

As fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, usually from a recovery from the esters of fat acids can be assumed by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

When natural or synthetic waxes (D3) can solid paraffins are used according to the invention or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, Ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes like For example, apple wax or citrus wax, micro waxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the company Kahl & Co., Trittau. The amount used is 0.1-50 wt .-% relative to the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-15 Wt .-% based on the total agent.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^®OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂- C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Druckspaltung von natürlichen Fetten und Ölen, bei der Oxidation von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese oder der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettsäuren anfallen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, die z.B. bei der Hochdruckhydrierung von technischen Methylestern auf Basis von Fetten und Ölen oder Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese sowie als Monomerfraktion bei der Dimerisierung von ungesättigten Fettalkoholen anfallen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^®868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintri-caprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäure-hexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, daß mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol caprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol ^® A), di-n -butyladipat (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. In the The use of technical products may, due to the production, still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The Use of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used in the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and in particular 0.1-15% by weight.

A last group of substances that can be used as fatty substances, are silicone oils.

Silicone oils (S) cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, Decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethiconols according to the invention as emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethiconols that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and very special preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, too the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched as well as highly branched Dimethiconole be particularly preferred.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products:
Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Elend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nony chosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all of the aforementioned Crompton Corporation ), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), THV 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud Wacker-Belsil CM 5090, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

The Dimethiconols (S1) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethiconols have their own phase in the invention form proper compositions. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the Dimethicone invention as an emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater he is, as a random branch, which arises by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.

The Dimethicones (S2) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconone based on the composition.

According to the invention It is also possible that the dimethicones have their own phase in the compositions of the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of dimethicone up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃₎ -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (Sirpe-O-) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. With the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention as Emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, completely more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicone copolyols, it is to be understood as that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicone copolyols that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and whole more preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree The branching is thereby from the relationship of the unbranched Monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols be particularly preferred.

The Dimethicone copolyols (S3) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of Dimethiconcopolyol based on the composition.

According to the invention It is also possible that the dimethicone copolyols have their own Phase in the compositions of the invention form. In this case, the amount of dimethicone copolyol can be up to to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.

Amino-functional Silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M (S4-I) in the above formula, R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable Silicone end group is, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G ist -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂ – -N(R'')₂ – -N⁺(R'')₃A^– – -N⁺H(R'')₂A^– – -N⁺H₂(R'')A^– – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (S4-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from --N (R'') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R'') ₂ - -N (R'') ₂ - -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^{- -} - N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^{- -} - N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- - - N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R "represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and and 150, where n preferably takes values from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

The Amodimethicones (S4) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of amodimethicone based on the composition.

According to the invention It is also possible that the amodimethicones have their own phase in the compositions of the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.

Only recently, completely novel polyammonium polysiloxane compounds are known in which the siloxane substructures are optionally connected to each other via ammonium substructures. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic products are described, for example, in the published patent application WO 02/10257 described.

• a1) mindestens eine Polyalkylenoxid-Struktureinheit der allgemeinen Formeln: -A-E-, -E-A-, -A-E-A'- und/oder -A'-E-A-, worin: A steht für eine der Gruppen: -CH₂C(O)O-, -CH₂CH₂C(O)O-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂C(O)O-, -OC(O)CH₂-, -OC(O)CH₂CH₂- und/oder -OC(O)CH₂CH₂CH₂-, A' bedeutet: -CH₂C(O)-, -CH₂CH₂C(O)-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂C(O)-, -C(O)CH₂-, -C(O)CH₂CH₂- und/oder -C(O)CH₂CH₂CH₂- und E steht für eine Polyalkylenoxidgruppe der allgemeinen Formeln: -[CH₂CH₂O]_q-[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_r- und/oder -[OCH(CH₃)CH₂]r, -[OCH₂CH₂]_q-, mit q = 1 bis 200 und r = 0 bis 200, wobei das endständige Sauerstoffatom der Gruppe A an die endständige -CH₂-Gruppe der Gruppe E, und das endständige Carbonylkohlenstoffatom der Gruppe A' an das endständige Sauerstoffatom Gruppe E jeweils unter Ausbildung von Estergruppen binden, und/oder mindestens eine endständige Polyalkylenoxid-Straktureinheit der Formel -A-E-R², worin A und E die oben genannte Bedeutung aufweisen, und R² steht für H, geradkettiger, cyclischer oder verzweigter C₁-C₂₀-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, oder -C(O) unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert und acetylenisch, olefinisch oder aromatisch sein kann,
• a2) mindestens ein zweiwertiger oder dreiwertiger organischer Rest, der mindestens eine Ammoniumgruppe enthält,
• a3) mindestens eine Polysiloxan-Straktureinheit der allgemeinen Formel: -K-S-K-, worin S steht für -Si(R¹)₂-O[-Si(R¹)₂-O]_n-Si(R¹)₂- und worin R¹ steht für C₁-C₂₂-Alkyl, C₁-C₂₂-Fluoralkyl oder Aryl, n steht für 0 bis 1000, und wenn mehrere Gruppen S in der Polysiloxanverbindung vorliegen, diese gleich oder verschieden sein können, worin K ein zweiwertiger oder dreiwertiger geradkettiger, cyclischer oder verzweigter C₂-C₄₀-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, -N-, -NR¹-, -C(O)-, -C(S)-, -N⁺(R³)- und -N⁺(R¹)(R³)- unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert sein kann, worin R¹ wie oben definiert ist, oder gegebenenfalls eine Bindung zu einem zweiwertigen Rest R³ darstellt, und worin R³ einen einwertigen oder zweiwertigen geradkettigen, cyclischen oder verzweigten C₁-C₂₀-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S)- unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert sein kann, oder -A-E-R² darstellt, worin A, E und R wie oben definiert ist, wobei die Reste K gleich oder verschieden voneinander sein können, und im Falle, dass K einen dreiwertigen Rest darstellt, die Absättigung der dritten Valenz über eine Bindung an den vorstehend genannten organischen Rest, der mindestens eine Ammoniumgruppe enthält, erfolgt,
• a4) einen organischen oder anorganischen Säurerest zur Neutralisation der aus der(n) Animoniumgruppe(n) resultierenden Ladungen.

As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:

• a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA-, wherein: A is one of the groups: -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, A 'means: -CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C ( O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -, -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and E is a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas: [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] r, - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ group of the group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom group E each with formation of Bind ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide-stearic unit of the formula -AER ² , wherein A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ² is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) and substituted by -OH and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic can be,
• a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,
• a3) at least one polysiloxane truncone unit of the general formula: -KSK-, in which S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - and in which R ¹ is C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ - C _{22 is} fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when there are several groups S in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical, represented by -O-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) - and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ¹ is as defined above, or optionally a bond to a bivalent radical R ³ represents and wherein R ³ is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group takes place,
• a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (s) ammonium group (s).

The Polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they are the components defined above a1) to a4). The polysiloxane compounds are thereby by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) formed together. Component a4) serves for neutralization the positive charges resulting from component a2).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can Be oligomeric or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds include the case described below, wherein the polysiloxane compound is just a repeating unit having.

polymers Polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are formed naturally by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.

in the Case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention the terminal atomic groupings result from the terminal atomic groupings of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.

In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric invention Polysiloxane compounds linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). Thus, the linear polymeric invention Polysiloxane compounds, in particular those from the repeat units formed linear polymeric backbone, by alternating stringing of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals, the contain at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3). This means, in addition, if necessary, in the structural components existing free valences (as with trivalent residues as Component a2) or in the case of trivalent radicals K) preferably do not serve the structure of polymeric side chains or polymeric Branches.

In a further embodiment, the backbone of the linear polysiloxane polymeric polymeric compounds of the invention can be built up from the organic radicals containing at least one ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane structural units a3), and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group radical. For example, the following structures can result: - (polyalkylene oxide structural unit-polysiloxane structural unit-polyalkylene oxide structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) _x - (polysiloxane structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) x-polyalkylene oxide structural unit) _x -

Depending on the molar ratio of the monomeric starting compounds, polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure:
(terminal polyalkylene oxide moiety quaternary ammonium group residue polysiloxane moiety quaternary ammonium group residue terminal polyalkylene oxide moiety).

The consist polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consisting essentially of the components a1) to a4), wherein the polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention naturally from the implementation of the monomers Starting materials have resulting terminal groups. But it can also monofunctional chain stopper be used.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA- act.

The rest A means:
-CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -

The rest A 'means:
-CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -, -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -.

The polyalkylene oxide group E of the general formulas: - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] _r - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q with q = 1 or 2
up to 200 and r = 0 to 200, include all possible ethylene oxide / propylene oxide groups. Such may be random ethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymer groups or ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer groups with any arrangement of one or more ethylene oxide or propylene oxide blocks.

The attachment of the radicals A or A 'to the group E takes place in such a way that the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ - group of the group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon atom of the group A' to the terminal oxygen atom each group E to form ester groups.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) can furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER ² in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ^{2 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ - C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group. The bond of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical. The term "divalent" or "trivalent" means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences. The ammonium radical is suitably represented by a NH ₄ ⁺ group represents, in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups. Preferably, it is a secondary or quaternary, more preferably a quaternary ammonium group. A quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH ₄ ⁺ group are replaced by organic radicals.

The component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-, S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -, wherein R1 is C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, preferably phenyl, n = 0 to 1000, and when there are several S groups in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different.

R ¹ is preferably C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₁₈ fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 is preferably C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R ^{1 is} preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ fluoroalkyl, more preferably C ₁ -C ₄ fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R ^{1 is} methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl" in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples include methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, iso-propyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl listed.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl" in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom, by way of example monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1- Trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl.

The term "aryl" in the context of the present invention means unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF ₃ C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₃ -C ₇ -cycloalkyl C ₂ C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) -, -NR ¹ -, and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

"Interrupted" means that in the case of divalent radicals a -CH ₂ grouping in the case of the trivalent radicals a -CH grouping of the hydrocarbon radical are replaced by said groups. This also applies to the rest of the description, if this name is used.

The Group K binds to the silicon atom via a carbon atom the group S.

The Group K can, as seen above, also preferably quaternary Have ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups in addition to the ammonium groups in said component a2) in the inventive Polysiloxane compounds result.

The polysiloxane compounds of the invention can such as in the. Have radical K, amino groups. The implementation the polysiloxane compounds of the invention with acids leads to their protonation. Such protonated amino groups containing polysiloxane are included in the scope of the present invention.

The Binding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the rest of the bodywork components over the rest K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the radical K.

R ¹ is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R ³ , so that a cycle results.

R ³ represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may be, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R ^{2 are} as defined above.

The Radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, takes place the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the - organic radical mentioned above, the at least contains an ammonium group.

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention furthermore component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for neutralization the charges resulting from the ammonium group (s). organic or inorganic acid residues are residues formally derived from the Cleavage of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids result and close for example, a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, Nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred. The organic or inorganic anionic Acid residues as component a4) of the invention Polysiloxane compounds may be the same or different be from each other. This results from the reaction of the amines with Alkyl halides preferably halide ions, while to Example Carboxylates from the carboxylic acids, which in the Reaction of bisepoxides with amines can be added, result.

In a preferred embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which, by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, - and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.

The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula: -N ¹ -FN ¹ -, wherein N ^{1 is} a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ⁴ ) N ⁺ (R ⁵ ) -, in which
R ^{4 represents} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -,
-C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, and R ⁵ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁴ or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ within the group -N ¹ -FN ¹ - and in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula -N ¹ -FN ¹ - (preferred embodiments, etc.), reference is made to the explanations of the first embodiment of the present invention for component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds in which this group is realized, which are also valid in this more general context.

The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may further preferably a radical of the general formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) - be,
in which R ^{6 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
-C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R ⁶ represents a single bond to a trivalent radical K.

R ⁷ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH- -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER ² , wherein -AER ² has the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁶ or to a trivalent radical K.

The radicals R ⁶ and R ⁷ may be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the second, third and fourth embodiment to the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, component a), of Reference is made to present active substance complex according to the invention, in which this group is realized, and which also have validity in this more general context.

The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may further preferably be a radical of the general formula: -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - be,
wherein N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) - is, wherein
R ^{23 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH may be substituted
R ^{24 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH or is a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - and in the polysiloxane compound may be identical or different from each other,
F ^{1 represents} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group -E- can be,
and wherein a plurality of the groups N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the ammonium group of formula -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the fifth embodiment of component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds of the present invention, in which this group is exemplified is, and which are also valid in this more general context.

in the The following are the components a) of the invention Complex of active substances, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, based of five preferred embodiments of this Compounds described in more detail.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (which will be referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical the general formula: -N ¹ -FN ¹ - is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the following general formula (I): - [BN ¹ -FN ¹ ] m- (I) where m = 2 to 500,
B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally -AE-A'- and -A'-EA-, where S, K, -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA, respectively - and -N ¹ -FN ¹ - are as defined above, and the proportion of the group -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- in the group B may be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A '- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to 50% of the mass of the polysiloxane S in the polymer.

The first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene-oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (I ') - [BN ¹ -FN ¹ ], - (I ') where m is 2 to 500,
B-EKSKEA,
S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -
R ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n 0 to 1000,
K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH can
E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - with,
q 1 to 200,
r 0 to 200 and
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-,
N ^{1 is} a quaternary ammonium structure
- (R ⁴ ) N + (R ⁵ ) -
R ^{4 represents} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and. may be substituted with -OH
R ^{5 represents} R ⁴ or a single bond to R ⁴ or F,
F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

The possibility of a tetravalent substructure for F means that F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N ¹ , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N ¹ . For a more detailed illustration, see the publication WO 02/10257 , in particular there Example 1, referenced.

In a further embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, the possibility of a divalent substructure for R ^{4 means} that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R ⁵ in this case is a single bond to R ⁴ . Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures. More preferred embodiments of this so-called first embodiment of the invention and processes for the preparation of said polysiloxane compounds of the formula (I) or (I ') are described below.

R ⁴ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ , wherein
wherein R ^{14 is} a straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbyl radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH ,

bilden.As mentioned above, R ⁴ and R ⁵ can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

form.

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{4 is} preferably a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ , more preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbyl radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - and may be substituted by -OH, more preferably a C ₃ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 has} the abovementioned meaning.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, interrupted and can be substituted with -OH.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₄ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, and - CH = CHCH ₂ -.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{14 is} preferably unsubstituted C ₆ -C ₁₇ -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₁₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are used in the present invention as active ingredients a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, R ¹⁴ furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds m is 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds n is 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80 and more preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and especially preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention r is 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50 and still more preferably 0 to 20.

For the production of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds according to the invention both of this first embodiment and of all further preferred embodiments of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, the disclosure is quite explicit WO 02/10257 directed.

A particular embodiment of the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (II), R ² -EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ² (II) wherein
S, K, -AE-, -EA- and R ^{2 have} the abovementioned meanings, and N ^{2 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group, the general formula - (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) - is, wherein
R ^{8 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH .
R ^{9 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁸ or to a trivalent radical K, and the radicals R ⁸ and R ⁹ within the polysiloxane compound of general formula (II) may be the same or different from each other.

Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are (□, □ -alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (II ') R ¹⁶ -EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ¹⁶ (II ')

What the names stand for,
S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) -
with R ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n is 0 to 1000,
K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - interrupted and substituted with -OH,
N ^{2 is} a quaternary ammonium structure
- (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) -
R ^{8 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
R ⁹ R ⁸ or a single bond to K or R ⁸ ,
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-
E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r
q 1 to 200
r 0 to 200 and
R ¹⁶ H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and
-OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means here that K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N ² . The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ⁸ means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{9 is} then a single bond to R ² .

R ⁸ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ ,
wherein R ^{17 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH ,

bilden.As mentioned above, R ⁸ and R ⁹ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

form.

Among the preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds may be to the above. to get expelled.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ₁ -, -N-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above.

R⁸ ist bevorzugt ein einwertiger oder zweiwertiger geradkettiger, cyclischer oder verzweigter C₁-C₁₆-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, -NH-, -C(O), -C(S)- unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert sein kann.Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures:
-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

R ⁸ is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.

R ¹⁶ is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.

Furthermore, R ^{16 is} preferably C ₅ -C ₁₇ -alkyl, -CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ , -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ .
R ¹⁷ preferably represents unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₁₇ -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₁₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably to saccharidecarboxylic acids.

ausgewählt.R ¹⁷ is particularly preferably selected from the group

selected.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, particularly preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and most preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds r is preferably 0 to 100, and more preferably 0 to 50.

In the so-called second embodiment of the invention r is 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.

to Preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention the so-called second embodiment is to the statements refer to the first preferred embodiment.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN ³ ] m- (III) where S, K and m are as defined above,
N ^{3 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ¹⁰ ) -N + (R ¹¹ ) - wherein R ^{10 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may or is a single bond to K,
R ¹¹ is -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning.

The polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (III ') - [KSKN ³ ] m- (III '), where m is 2 to 500,
S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -
with R ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n = 0 to 1000,
N ^{3 is} a quaternary ammonium structure
- (R ¹⁰⁾ N ⁺ (R ¹¹⁾
wherein R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may or is a single bond to K,
R ³ -AE- is, with
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- and
E for a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure
- [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -R ¹⁸
q from 1 to 200,
r from 0 to 200,
R ^{18 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic, and
K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N ⁵ , with
N ⁵ in the meaning of - (R ¹⁹ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁰ ) -
R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or a single bond to R ¹⁰ , and R ^{20 is} -AE-, as defined above.

For the preparation of the preferred embodiments of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, as has already been explicitly stated, reference is made to the published patent application WO 02/10257 directed.

R ¹⁰ and R ¹⁹ are independently of one another preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ , wherein R ^{21 is} a straight, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

In one embodiment of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, a bivalent substructure for R ¹⁰ is a cyclic system-forming structure wherein R ¹⁰ then has a single bond to K, preferably to a tertiary amino structure or to the quaternary structure N ⁵ R ¹⁹ .

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements.

Preferably R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₅ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can be.

Preferably, R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₅ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can be.

worin R²⁰ wie oben definiert ist.In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is furthermore preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -,

wherein R ^{20 is} as defined above.

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, R ² or R ^{18 is} preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and acetylenically or can be olefinic. More preferably R ² or R ^{18 is} C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl,
-CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ .

Preferably, R ^{21 is} an unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₁₇ radicals derived from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

For example, R ²¹ is:

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50, n 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80, q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10, r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably r 0 to 10.

For the preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the so-called third embodiment to be used according to the invention, it is expedient in turn to refer to the published patent application WO 02/10257 directed.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes (which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (IV): - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AE-A '] _m - or - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -A'-EA] _m - (IV) wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, and
N ^{4 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) - wherein R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
R ^{13 may have} the meanings of R ¹² , or represents a single bond to K or R ¹² , and the radicals R ¹² and R ^{13 may be the} same or different from each other. The polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyquartemäre polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV '), - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AEA] m- (IV ') where m = 2 to 500,
S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - wherein
R ¹ is C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n 0 to 1000,
K is a bivalent one. or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ , -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH can be substituted,
N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) - wherein R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH,
R ¹³ is R ¹² or a single bond to K or R ¹² ,
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-
E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -
with q = 1 to 200 and
r = 0 to 200.

To the manufacturing process is based on the previously executed directed.

More preferred Embodiments of this so-called fourth embodiment Polysiloxanes of the formula (IV) or (IV ') are described below.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means that K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N ⁴ .

The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ¹² means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{13 is} then a single bond to R ¹² .

R ¹² is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² ,
wherein R ^{22 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH ,

As mentioned above, R ¹² and R ¹³ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

For the preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, reference may be made to the above statements.

Preferably, R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbyl radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH can be.

In the so-called fourth embodiment, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

Preferably, R ^{22 is} an unsubstituted C ⁵ -C ¹⁷ hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ³ -C ¹⁷ radicals which may be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

m ist bevorzugt 2 bis 100, und besonders bevorzugt 2 bis 50. n ist 0 bis 100, bevorzugt 0 bis 80, und besonders bevorzugt 10 bis 80. q ist 1 bis 50, bevorzugt 2 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 2 bis 20, noch bevorzugter ist q 2 bis 10. r ist 0 bis 100, bevorzugt 0 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 0 bis 20, noch bevorzugter ist r 0 bis 10.More preferred is R ²² :

m is preferably 2 to 100, and particularly preferably 2 to 50. n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80. q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and particularly preferably 2 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10. r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20, more preferably r is 0 to 10.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl or C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched can. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed.

The term "aryl" as used above means in the context of the present invention unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF 3 C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₃ - C ₇ -Cycloalkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as constituent a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V): [-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -Y-] _m wherein
Y is a group of the formula -KSK- and -AE-A'- and -A'-EA-, respectively,
wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 100,
N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) -, in which
R ^{23 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH may be substituted
R ^{24 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, C (S) - and substituted by -OH or is a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
F ^{1 represents} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or -C (S) - or by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein a plurality of N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

The molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) is between 100: 1 and 1: 100. This molar ratio can be as in the published patent application WO 02/10257 are controlled by the choice of the molar ratio of the starting compounds, in particular the ratio of the (□, □ -halocarboxylic acid polyalkylene oxide ester compounds and the polysiloxane bis-epoxide compounds preferably used according to the invention The properties of the products depend essentially on the ratio of the starting materials used as the length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth Embodiment of the polysiloxanes K is a divalent Hydrocarbon radical having at least 4 carbon atoms, the one Has hydroxyl group and which is interrupted by an oxygen atom can be.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, F1 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbyl radical become.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention
-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -
a group of formula: -N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) + - F ² -N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) ⁺ - wherein
R ^{25 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH , particularly preferably methyl,
R ^{26 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, particularly preferably Is methyl, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ²⁵ , and the radicals R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ within the group -N ⁵ -F ² -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, and
F ^{2 is} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.

In an even more preferred embodiment, F ^{2 is} a branched, preferably straight-chain C ₁ -C ₆ -alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment. the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds
-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -
a group of formula: -N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ -F ³ -N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ - wherein
R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} each hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl or hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen, methyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, and
F ^{3 is} a divalent straight, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E- wherein E is as defined above.

F ³ is particularly preferably a group of the formula -DED wherein E is as defined above and D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C ¹ -C ⁶ alkanediyl group, provided that D is not a single bond when it binds to a terminal E group oxygen atom.

Preferably, the group -DED- is replaced by a group of the formula -D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _v (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ )) _w -OD- wherein D is a straight or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above. In the group -D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _q (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ )) _r -OD-, the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units be arranged arbitrarily, for example as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.

v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, more preferably 1 to 40.

w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the group
-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵
by a group of the formula: -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ - and a group of the formula: -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ - wherein the substituents each have the above meanings.

This means that the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -.

In this embodiment, the molar ratio of the group
-N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -
to the group
-N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -
preferably 70:30 to 95: 5, preferably 80:20 to 90:10.

The Polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) can be cyclic or linear. In the case of linear connections result the terminal groups either from the for the preparation used bifunctional described below Monomers or their functionalized derivatives or monoamines, during the polymerization as chain terminator be added. The results from the use of the monoamine chain stopper resulting terminal groups are preferably as ammonium groups, either by quaternization or protonation.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is one of the groups of the formula:

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, specifically 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range from 0 to 100, especially 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and all specifically 0 to 10.

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention the organic or inorganic acid radical becomes neutralized the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s) appropriate selected from inorganic radicals, such as chloride, bromide, Hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, propionate, Octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above chloride and bromide preferably from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups result.

Farther are the polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.

The polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment of the invention are conveniently prepared by one of the methods disclosed in Laid-Open Publication WO 02/10257 are described.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ^® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above in the compositions according to the invention in in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% each used in relation to the overall composition.

The Ratio of polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds to a further synergistic active ingredient component selected from the group of polymers, protein hydrolysates, silicones, the vitamins and the plant extracts is in general According to the invention 1: 1000 to 1: 2, preferably 1: 100 to 1: 2, more preferably 1:50 to 1: 2, and most preferably 1:10 to 1: 2.

If a mixture of at least two silicones is used so is this mixture in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of Silicone mixture based on the composition included.

According to the invention It is also possible that the mixture of silicones has its own Phase in the compositions of the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.

Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that a mixture of several fatty substances (D) from different ones Classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fat used in the compositions of the invention can be. The preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components in this case necessarily contain at least another silicone component. The silicone component is preferred in this case selected from the dimethiconols and the Amodimethicones.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the invention Means is usually 0.5-75 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

One another synergistic active ingredient according to the invention in the inventive compositions with The active substance complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).

Proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of fibers, especially keratinic fibers. Structural strengthening, that is to say restructuring in the context of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are distinguished, for example, by an improved gloss or by an improved grip or by easier combing. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity. Successful restructuring can be physically called enamel point increase in comparison to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber. A detailed description of the method for determining the melting range of hair can be found in the DE 196 173 95 A1 ,

Proteins and protein hydrolysates have been known for a long time and are widely used in cosmetics. Reference is made to the relevant literature, for example in A. Domsch, "the cosmetic preparations", volume II, page 205 and following, publishing house for the chemical industry, H. Ziolkowsky ,

It has long been known in cosmetic preparations Proteins but also modified proteins for the achievement of caring To use effects. Either water-soluble proteins are used for this purpose or modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, So used water-soluble proteins. Just in the reactions to achieve a sufficient solubility in water is so much degradation in fiber proteins required that the cosmetic efficacy no longer is sufficient.

Thereby in particular, an increase in mildness and skin tolerance but also, if desired, a fine creamy foam achieved the application of the compositions of the invention. This in its structure very fine, creamy and as extreme pleasantly feeling foam is present in all compositions achieved in which in particular surface-active substances as further ingredients are included. The effectiveness of the invention Composition is characterized by the simultaneous use of Polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids further increased. In these cases remains after the application of each composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or whose derivative is on the surface of the hair, which leads to an improved effect. The hair is through clearly strengthened and smoothed in its structure. This effect is also clear with objective evidence such as measuring the comb forces of the wet and dry hair, measuring the breaking forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin detectable. A confirmation These results can also be found in the results of the consumer tests again.

protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, Polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. count. Further examples for compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of According to invention usable protein teinhydrolysate is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and quite more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. Of course includes the present inventive teaching also that in the case of the amino acids these are in the form of derivatives, such as the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-ester may be present. In the case of N-acyl derivatives is the acyl group a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the remainder of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In case of a N-alkyl derivatives, the alkyl group, linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters are those of esterification underlying alcohols methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, Butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, Heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, Dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols with a C chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course you can the amino acids on both the N atom and the O atom simultaneously be derivatized. Of course you can the amino acids also in salt form, especially as mixed salts used together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.

Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline , Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine. Very particularly preferred verwen det alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.

According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes or soya are known. To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. The use of the oil of this species is for example from the US Pat. No. 6,667,047 B2 known. However, the use of an extract of the seed of Moringa oleifera is not yet known. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially.

Moringa have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their trivial name "miracle tree." They are preferably located in tropical areas. The different parts This genus of plants have been known since ancient times in particular used for medical purposes. From the seeds of the Moringa growths is by a gentle extraction with water and glycerin the Gained protein. This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50000 daltons. Preferred is a protein extract with a molecular weight from 3000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 Dalton. The most preferred extract is from the plant Moringa Oleifera won. Furthermore, the inventive Extract due to extraction of course water and glycerin. The content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20 wt .-%. A content of protein from 0.01 to 10 wt .-% is preferred. Particularly preferred is an extract with a protein content from 0.01 to 5% by weight. Furthermore, in the extract at least 30 wt .-% glycerol included. Finally, water is in contain the extract of the invention.

In The cosmetic compositions are the protein extract described above from the seeds of Moringa growth in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20 wt .-% included. Preference is given to amounts of the extract from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Diahin ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Further According to the invention, preferred protein hydrolysates are of maritime origin. These include, for example Collagen hydrolysates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.

beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic Calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be Easily gain from cultivated mussels. The cultivation The shells can be fresh in as well done in seawater. This can affect the ingredients of Impact beads. According to the invention is preferred a pearl extract, which cultured in marine or salt water Shells came. The pearls consist to a large extent from aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Furthermore, in pearls are still Magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds as well Contain phosphates.

To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. After that, the pulverized Beads extracted with the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.

Farther is found depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending from the choice of the extractant a more or less large Share of minerals and trace elements in the extract again. One preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic Calcium salts and magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of course occurring pearls.

Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions is one of those previously described Pearl extracts in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20% by weight contain. Preferably, amounts of the extract are from 0.01 up to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.

One Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. Under Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread Fibroin. As a cement substance sericin keeps this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight Sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral components.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt .-% hydroxy amino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37 Wt%), aspartate (Asp, 26 wt%), glycine (Gly, 17 wt%), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr).

The water-insoluble fibroin is associated with scleroproteins to count long-chain molecular structure. The main ingredients of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another essential structural feature of the fibroine is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are understood in particular as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Silk. The DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.

The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The properties of a Shampoos containing sericin as a nourishing component are used in the "Medizinische Kosmetologie 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative, for example, in the DE 31 39 438 A1 described as caring and conditioning for the hair.

• – natives Sericin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Sericin, wie beispielsweise Handelsprodukte mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, oder Hydrolyzed Silk,
• – eine Mischung aus den Aminosäuren Serin, Aspartat und Glycin und/oder deren Methyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Serin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 20 bis 60 Gew.-%, das Aspartat und/oder dessen Derivate zu 10-40 Gew.-% und das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 5 bis 30 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, daß sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

According to the invention, it is possible to use as active ingredients:

• - native sericin,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
• - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt .-%, the aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt .-% and the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt .-%, with the proviso in that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

• – natives, in eine lösliche Form überführtes Fibroin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Fibroin, besonders teilhydrolisiertes Fibroin, welches als Hauptbestandteil die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly enthält,
• – die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• – eine Mischung der Aminosäuren Glycin, Alanin und Tyrosin und/oder deren Methyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate in Mengen von 20-60 Gew.-%, das Alanin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 10-40 Gew,% und das Tyrosin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 0 bis 25 Gew.-% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, daß sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.-% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

According to the invention can be used as active ingredients:

• Native fibroin converted into a soluble form,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as, for example, hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the glycine and / or or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt .-%, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt,% and the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .-% are included, with the proviso in that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

If in the compositions of the invention agent according to the invention both silk protein hydrolyzates simultaneously and / or their derivatives are used, it may be preferred according to the invention be that at least one of the two silk components, Fibroin or sericin in the native or at most soluble made form is used. According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives.

If a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their Derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention be that the two silk protein hydrolysates in proportion from 10:90 to 70:30, especially 15:85 to 50:50 and especially 20:80 to 40:60 based on their respective levels of active substance used in the preparations according to the invention become.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk. As typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention are those under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products mentioned: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk. Finally, typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention are the products available commercially under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk.

In the agents used in the invention are the Silk protein hydroxysates and / or their derivatives in amounts of 0.001-10 Wt .-% based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.

According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P) use.

The Protein hydrolysates (P) are in concentrations in the compositions from 0.001% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05 Wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

A Another preferred group of ingredients of the invention Compositions with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.

vitamins, Pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The Skin, whereby under skin naturally also the scalp understood, leaves after the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a substantial neater, more vital, stronger impression with clear improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and also in the dry state. Furthermore, this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and of strained hair, leads to a regulation of Fetthaushaltes, so that the thus treated skin and hair slower greases and does not tend to overgrease. additionally This drug shows an anti-inflammatory and the Skin soothing effect. Finally, through this Active ingredients regenerated and repaired the split hair. These agents are able to penetrate the hair and to strengthen and repair the hair from within. This "repair effect" can be objectively detected by means of DSC measurements. For example, these effects can also be subjective in the Consumer test can be detected.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents of the invention ent keep the vitamin A component preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin 63. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1-5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin 63. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin F. Under the term "vitamin F" are usually essential Fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers contain the compositions of the invention Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well Nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for example, cationic surfactants such as cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or the N, N, N'-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) -N'-octadecyl-1,3-diaminopropane dihydrofluoride known as amine fluoride. Good also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds are suitable, such as the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil IB ^®, ICI) or 1,1'-hexamethylene-bis- (4-chlorophenyl) -biguanide ( "chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-acceptable salt eg in the form of the acetate or gluconate. Also preferred are the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, for example, the 1,3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are, for example, 6,6'-methylene-bis (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene") and 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether ( "triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial agents are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such as e.g. the bisabolol, the farnesol, the Santalol or Nerolidol.

After all result from the use of plant extracts (L) in the Compositions according to the invention further synergistic Advantages. Therefore, the use of these substances is particularly advantageous.

Such combinations cause a pleasant fragrance of both the cosmetic composition tion, as well as the skin treated therewith and the treated hair. In this case, it may even be possible to dispense with the addition of further perfume oils and fragrances.

Farther influences this active ingredient according to the invention Also, the moisture balance of the skin and hair favorably. She also shows an anti-inflammatory and the skin soothing effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian be used. Show particularly good effects in relation to the hair Nettle, hops, birch and burdock root.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only to produce the plant.

Regarding the plant extracts usable according to the invention particular attention is drawn to the extracts mentioned in the page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic Medium, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- and detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are.

According to the invention especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, Witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Valerian, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, Ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root are preferred.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Valerian, Coffee, cocoa, moringa, home toe, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

All especially for the composition according to the invention suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe Vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and Melon.

According to the invention it is most preferable if so-called plant extracts Ayurvedic plant extracts are used. Under an Ayurvedic Plant extract is any plant extract to understand which was produced according to the principles of Ayurvedic teaching. The Foundations of Ayurveda teaching can be called the "Veda" be removed. Usually in the Ayurvedic Therapeutic treatment with ayurvedic extracts and oils three different treatments by ayurvedic therapists carried out.

To The traditional Ayurvedic plants include flegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). In the sense of the present Invention are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus rotundus (Nagar motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala) are preferred. Especially preferred are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). Of course The inventive teaching also includes that in the compositions according to the invention mixtures used from at least two of the ayurvedic plant extracts become. It may be preferred if one of the Ayurvedic Plant extracts Bilwa is.

Santalum Album (Chandana) is one of the sandalwood plants. Under sandalwood are woods of the family Fabaceae as also understood woods of the family Santalaceae. To the family the Santalaceaen include, for example, Santalum album, the sandalwood tree. This will deliver the white or yellow Sandalwood. The yellow sandalwood becomes essential oils, the sandalwood, which is also found in western homeopathy used in case of urinary tract infections or kidney disease become. In cosmetics, these essential oils are exclusive used as perfume oils or as components of perfume oil compositions. In particular, the products extracted with water vapor are called Perfume oil ingredients used.

Regle Marmelos or Bilwa belongs to the family Rutaceae, which are related to the citrus fruits. The tree is in both Ayurvedic and Western homeopathic Teaching known. Bilwa is especially in the case of stomach ailments and diarrhea used. In the compositions according to the invention can Bilwa contribute to the foaming behavior like foaming, Foam volume, creaminess of the foam or the fine pores of the To improve foam. At the same time, the necessary amount be reduced to surfactants and / or emulsifiers. this in turn leads to a better compatibility of the respective cosmetic compositions. In particular, together with mild anionic Surfactants achieve these effects of the Bilwa.

Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar motha) is a grassy plant. In medicine of Ayurveda as well as in Greek medicine became Cyperus Rotundus used as anti-inflammatory.

Emblica Officinalis (Amalki) is one of the oldest Indian fruits. The fruits are extremely nutritious and contain including large amounts of vitamin C. As this fruit five of the six tastes of human tastes contains, this fruit is the best in the teaching of Ayurveda Fruit and as the most useful for the maintenance of health and to cure diseases. Due to scientific Research has been known to make this fruit unique Contains tannins and flavonoids.

Morinda Citrifolia (Ashyuka) has been used to treat almost all diseases used. In particular, however, too high blood pressure, heart problems and Diabetis treated with it.

Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) is one of the succulents. In the Ayurvedic Medicine is the plant as anti-inflammatory, against arthritis and allergies used.

Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma) is widely used in India. It is used especially in rice dishes. In the teaching of Ayurveda also serves as an aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it should be fever have lowering effects. In food it is used as a spice and used for coloring the foods.

Nelumbo Nucifera is a lotus plant. Both in the Indian doctrine of Ayurveda as well as in Chinese medicine is Lotus as a benefactor described for the entire physique. Lotus is at the same time the symbol of prosperity, beauty, wealth and fertility.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum is used as a warming plant. It's exciting the circulation especially of the outer limb like fingers and feet. It is therefore also at Used colds. It increases the Bioavailability of other plant extracts. Continue it as a spice for food and drinks used. In the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions may be particularly preferred, Cinnamomum Zeylanikum to use as Ayurvedic extract, if at the same time more Plant extracts in the compositions of the invention should be used. This is especially true for the Extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, Hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, Almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, sage, rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Valerian, Coffee, Cocoa, Moringa, Meristem, Ginseng and Ginger root. All these last Extracts mentioned in common that they are targeted at the hair root Cause effects. These effects are the promotion the circulation of the hair root, a scalp soothing effect, a hair follicle growth promoting effect, an effect against dandruff and too fast greasing of the hair to mention only the essential effects.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant also in mixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 proved to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as Solvent the extractant used in their extraction or extractant mixture.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive Mixtures of several, especially two, different Use plant extracts.

In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions. Rock crystal is a modification of silica. Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material. For example, quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda. Sand, which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as exfoliating body. In addition, quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special. The varieties of rock crystal, amethyst, smoky quartz, chrysoprase, citrine, morion or rose quartz are very much in demand as gemstones both as home decoration and as garment jewelery in many cultures. These crystals and minerals are a symbol of beauty, shine and riches. It has often been and is believed that these crystals have healing properties because they are water turned to stone. Other minerals containing amorphous or finely divided silica are the opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. In the following quartz refers exclusively to the mineral, crystallized modifications of the quartz, which satisfy the structural formula SiO ₂ and are free of impurities. Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example. Under no circumstances are the term "quartz" understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc. In particular, the term "quartz" understood and can be used according to the invention: quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, Amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. Preference is given to quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.

finely ground Quartz, as well as an extract of finely ground quartz, is used in cosmetic Compositions used to give the skin and hair a velvety, to give a soft, comfortable feeling. Continue the shine of the skin and hair in an outstanding way increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable burden of skin and hair. Also on the hair are subsequent treatments such as Cold wave or dyeing processes not only not disadvantageous impaired but it finds no impairment instead of.

Of the finely ground quartz, the quartz powder, is made according to usual Methods for comminution and grinding of rocks obtained. Quartz powder is particularly useful in particle sizes of 0.5 microns to 500 microns used. Especially preferred are particle sizes from 0.5 to 250 μm, very particular preferred from 10 microns to 200 microns. In a preferred embodiment according to the invention The finely ground quartz is made with the help of erotic solvents extracted and the resulting quartz extract is in the cosmetic Used compositions. Also in this embodiment are quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, Rock Crystal, Smoky Quartz, Amethyst, Chrysoprase, Citrine, Morion, Rose Quartz, Opal and its varieties Agate, Chalcedony, Onyx, Carnelian, Heliotrope, jasper or flint as starting materials for production a flour and the subsequent extraction to the "quartz extract" used. Preference is given to using quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, Rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is smoky quartz, Rose quartz and rock crystal used. Most preferred is rock crystal.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanols, hexanols or heptanols, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and glycols, in particular glycol, diglycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol , Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water, mineral water or seawater. Extracts based on water and polyhydric alcohols in the ratio 1:50 to 50: 1 have proved to be suitable according to the invention. A ratio of 1:25 to 25: 1 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, with a ratio of water to polyhydric alcohol of 3: 1 to 1: 1 being most preferred. The invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water. Under mineral water is to understand water, which comes naturally from mineralized sources. For example, the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Léau de Vichy, etc. As the extraction method, any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used. A quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon. Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm. Beson Preferred is an extract with a silicon content of at least 50 ppm. Very particular preference is given to an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon. The amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. The quartz extract may optionally be adjusted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract. The quartz extract usually has a pH of 4-11, preferably 6-11, more preferably 7-10, and most preferably 7.5-9.5. Should it be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract, the pH will be adjusted with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and its salts or with organic acids Acids and their salts such as iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid made. The adjustment of the pH of the quartz extract with acids, which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment. An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ^® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.

additionally It may prove advantageous if in the inventive Compositions Penetration Aids and / or Swelling Agents (M) are included. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients in the keratin fiber or help the keratinic Swell fiber. These include, for example, to count Urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, Propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

After all show experimental findings that the invention Compositions are particularly well suited to perfume oils or fragrances on the skin and hair in an increased amount deposit. At the same time the perfume oils remain and fragrances significantly longer on the skin or hair be liable. This leads to increased acceptance such compositions in the consumer. These results are particularly relevant to compositions such as shampoos, Shower baths, cures, spa packs, conditioners, leave-on hair treatments, styling and hair fixating and strengthening funds.

A Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of Compositions according to the invention are perfumes. The outstanding and completely surprising positive Results of compositions containing the inventive Active ingredients and perfumes have been previously described in detail.

With The term perfume are perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances meant. As perfume oils are called Mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.

natural Fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, Roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, Caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelics, celery, cardamom, costus, Iris, Calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, Rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, Sage, thyme, chamomile), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, Pines), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax).

Farther come from animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum.

Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate, jasmecyclate and benzylsalicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones such as the ionone, α-isomethylionone and Methylcedrylketon to the alcohols anethole, Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams such as limonene and pinene.

Prefers However, mixtures of different fragrances are used, the together create an appealing scent. Also essential oils lower volatility, which is mostly used as aroma components are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, Juniper Berry Oil, Vetiver Oil, Oliban Oil, Galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange blossom oil, Orange Peel Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Neroliol Allylamyl Glycolate, Cyclovertal, Lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-Damascone, Geranium oil Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate used alone or in mixtures.

Further examples of fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention can be found, for example, in US Pat S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3rd. Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997 ,

Around To be perceptible, a perfume must be volatile being, besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure the molecular weight of the chemical compound also plays an important role plays. So most perfumes have molecular weights up to about 200 Dalton, while molar masses of 300 Daltons and above tend to be constitute an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of one of several changes Fragrances of composite perfume or fragrance during evaporation, taking the odor impressions in "top note", "heart or middle note" (middle note or body) and "base note" (end note or dry out). Because the smell perception to a large Part also based on the odor intensity, there is the Top note of a perfume or fragrance not only from volatile Compounds, while the base note to the largest Part of less volatile, i. adherent fragrances consists.

Tenacious Fragrances, in the context of the present invention advantageously can be used, for example, the essential oils like angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, Basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champacabell oil, Edling fir oil, Edel fir cone oil, Elemiöl, Eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, Galbanum oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, Ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, Calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, Cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaiba balsam oil, Coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, Cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, Lemon balm oil, musk kernel oil, myrrh oil, Clove oil, neroli oil, niaouli oil, olibanum oil, Orange oil, Origanum oil, Palmarosaöl, Patchouliöl, Peru balsam oil, petitgrain oil, pepper oil, Peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, Rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, Spiked oil, star aniseed oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, Thyme oil, verbena oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, Wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, Hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, Citron oil, lemon oil and cypress oil.

But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances natural or of synthetic origin may be within the scope of the present invention Invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, So fragrances are used. These connections include the following compounds as well as mixtures of these: Ambrettolide, amyl cinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, Anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, Ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, Benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, bornyl acetate, Bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, Eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, Heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, Hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, Indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, cu-marine, p-methoxyacetophenone, Methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methyl acetophenone, Methylchavikol, p-methylquinoline, methylnaphthylketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, Methyl n-nonyl ketone, Muskon, naphthol ethyl ether, naphthol methyl ether, Nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, Pentadecanolide, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, Phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, Methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, Santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, -undelactone, vanilin, Veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, Cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

To the more volatile odoriferous substances, which are part of the present invention can be used advantageously include especially the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin, used alone or in mixtures can be. Examples of more volatile Fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, Limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, Phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All The above-mentioned fragrances are alone or in a mixture according to present invention can be used with the advantages already mentioned.

Lie the boiling points of the individual fragrances substantially below 300 ° C, so is a preferred embodiment the invention, wherein preferably at least 50% of the contained Fragrances have a boiling point below 300 ° C, advantageously at least 60%, in a further advantageous manner at least 70%, more preferably at least 80%, in excess advantageously at least 90%, in particular even 100%.

boiling Below 300 ° C are therefore advantageous because the relevant Fragrance at higher boiling points too low volatility would have. But to at least partially "flow out" of the particle being able to develop and fragrance is a certain volatility the fragrances of advantage.

It was observed earlier that some, unstable Perfume ingredients sometimes with carrier material are not well compatible and after incorporation in the carrier at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier a porous mineral carrier, such as Clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated Zeolite. Unstable perfumes in the sense of this invention can thereby be identified as having a perfume composition, comprising at least 6 fragrances in activated / dehydrated Zeolite X incorporated and the resulting sample for Stored at room temperature for 24 hours. Then the perfumes extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography for stability to determine. A fragrance is then considered unstable in the sense of this Invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95% by weight of this perfume decomposes into degradation products and can not be recovered during the extraction.

are in the agent according to the invention less than 15 Wt .-%, preferably less than 8 wt .-%, advantageously less as 6 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, of unstable Perfume contains, based on the total perfume, which is ad / absorbed in / on the particle, so is a preferred Embodiment of the invention, wherein the unstable Perfume, in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.

If the perfume ad / absorbed in / on the particle, at least 4, advantageously at least 5, in further advantageous Way at least 6, in still more advantageous manner at least 7, more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular contains at least 10 different fragrances, such is a preferred embodiment of the invention in front.

If the logP value of the perfume components which are in / on the Particles ad / absorbed, substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, in a further advantageous manner at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, especially 90% of the perfume components of this meet log requirement, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.

The logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The stated conditions for the logP are advantageous because it is ensured that the fragrances can be better retained in the pores of the support material and also better on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a Detergent formulation containing the particles of the invention). The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; For example, the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS) of Irvine, California, contains many such values along with references to the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated, for example For example, with the "CLOG P" program of the above-mentioned company Daylight CIS, in the case of calculated logP values, one usually speaks of ClogP values. Within the scope of this invention, the term logP values also includes the clog P values Preferably, Clog-P values should then be used for hydrophobicity estimation if there are no experimental logP values for certain perfume constituents.

If If desired, the perfume can also be made with a perfume fixative be combined. It is believed that perfume fixative the evaporation of the higher volatile fractions of Slow down perfumes.

According to one another preferred embodiment, the perfume comprises which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material from / Perfume-fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, Musk (derivatives) as well as mixtures of these, the fixative amount preferably 1 to 55% by weight, advantageously 2 to 50% by weight, even more advantageously 10 to 45% by weight, in particular 20 to 40% by weight the total amount of perfume is.

According to one Another preferred embodiment contains the particles a the viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume-enhancing agent, preferably PEG (Polyethylene glycol), advantageously with a molecular weight from 400 to 2000, the viscosity increasing Preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is included on the particles.

It It has been found that the viscosity of Liquids, in particular perfume-raising agents another contribution to the stabilization of the perfume in of the particles when nonionic surfactant is present at the same time is.

The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) n -OH (I), in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.

To particularly preferred polyethylene glycols those with molecular weights between 400 and 2000. In particular, polyethylene glycols can also be used which are inherently room temperature and pressure of 1 in liquid state; here is above all of polyethylene glycol of a molecular weight from 200, 400 and 600 the speech.

The Perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total composition, of Total composition added.

The Perfumes can be in liquid form, undiluted or diluted with a solvent for Perfumes can be added to the compositions. Suitable solvents for this are e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate etc.

Of Further, the perfumes for the invention Compositions be adsorbed to a carrier, which is responsible for both a fine distribution of fragrances in the Product as well as for a controlled release at the application ensures. Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulphate, silica gels, zeolites, Plasters, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete etc. or organic materials like woods and cellulose-based substances.

The Perfume oils for the invention Compositions may also be microencapsulated, spray dried, as inclusion complexes or as extrusion products and in this form the compositions to be perfumed to be added.

Possibly can the properties of such modified perfume oils by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with regard to be further optimized to a more targeted fragrance release, including preferably waxy plastics such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol used become.

Of the Consumers may like to perceive the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by an asthetically appealing packaging, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, the inventive Composition with a stimulant such as e.g. Confectionery or drinks. Through this association can, especially in children, an oral intake or swallowing the cosmetic composition is not excluded in principle become. In a preferred embodiment included therefore, the compositions of the invention a bitter substance, to a swallowing or akzidentielle Prevent ingestion. In this case, according to the invention are bitter substances preferably soluble in water at 20 ° C to at least 5 g / l are.

Regarding an undesirable interaction with optionally in fragrance components contained in the cosmetic compositions, in particular a change in the consumer's perception Fragrance note, the ionogenic bitter substances are nonionic proved superior. Ionogenic bitter substances, preferred consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s), are therefore for the invention Preparations preferred.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. Such a compound is for example the commercially methylammoniumbenzoat ^® under the trademarks Bitrex ^® and available Indigestin benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl). This compound is also known under the name of Denatonium Benzoate.

Of the Scrim is in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the molding, contain. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.

Advantageous For the purposes of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can be used as an ingredient in the active ingredient complex (A). Under short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the sense The invention relates to carboxylic acids which are saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or may be aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight less than 750. Preferred in the sense The invention can be saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length from 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, are particularly preferred those with a chain length of 1 up to 12 C atoms in the chain.

A Use of short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment the pH of the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions. The composition of the invention leads in conjunction with a short-chain carboxylic acid to an improved skin smoothness and to an improved Skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.

Next the invention exemplified above short-chain carboxylic acids themselves can also their physiologically acceptable salts used according to the invention become. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, Zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present Registration also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. In addition, however, can also be alkaline reacting amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, Ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids used become. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and Argininsalze are preferred salts. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid as an active ingredient from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

To the most preferred according to the invention Short chain carboxylic acids include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and Polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.

Examples of particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also includes that these acids are used in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of amino acids which can be used as mixed salts with these hydroxycarboxylic acids are carnitine, taurine, isidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine. A typical one Representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is, for example, carnitine tartrate.

Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.

According to the invention It is also possible a mixture of several active ingredients to use this group.

The short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred in Meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, especially di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be used, in whole or in part, as ester, acid anhydride, lactone, Amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, Hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrite, phosphono or phosphate ester. The invention Of course, carboxylic acids can be used substituted along the carbon chain or ring skeleton be. To the substituents of the invention Carboxylic acids are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, C2-C8 alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl-, Cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α-position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, wherein the amino function optionally by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted. Furthermore, they are also preferred Carboxylic acid derivatives, the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4,4'-dicyano-6, 6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a Dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds d he general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

dicarboxylic acids of formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

A manufacturing method is for example the U.S. Patent 3,753,968 refer to. The German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses. From the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 Deodorants are known which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from the German Offenlegungsschrift 35 03 618 Means for washing and rinsing the hair known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids, a significantly improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained. Finally, from the German Offenlegungsschrift 197 54 053 Hair treatment compositions are known which have nourishing effects.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one of a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component out. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. Acrylic acid, but also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are particularly preferred as the monocarboxylic acid component. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.

Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to the formula (N-I) are also those dicarboxylic acids that are different from the Compounds according to formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 Differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from these compounds formally by addition of a molecule Water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the invention exemplified above short-chain carboxylic acids themselves can also their physiologically acceptable salts used according to the invention become. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, Zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present Registration also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. Especially preferred may be in the frame However, the invention with alkaline amino acids, such as For example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized Acids are used. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

Completely according to the invention it is particularly preferred as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention, the so-called pleasure acids use.

These Active ingredients of the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and most preferably in Amounts of 0.1 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.

A particularly diverse and interesting cosmetic active ingredient group are polyhydroxy compounds. The use according to the invention of polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other components according to the invention can therefore be particularly preferred. For the purposes of the invention, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning all substances which have the definition in Römpp's Lexikon der Chemie, 1999 edition, published by Georg Thieme , fulfill. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.

• – Polyole mit mindestens zwei Hydroxygruppen, wie beispielsweise Trimethylolpropan,
• – Ethoxilate und/oder Propoxylate mit 1 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und oder Propylenoxid der zuvor genannten Polyole,
• – Kohlenhydrate, Zuckeralkohole und Zucker sowie deren Salze,
• – insbesondere Monosaccharide, Disaccharide, Trisaccharide und Oligosaccharide, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen, sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH- und -NH-Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können,
• – Aminodesoxyzucker, Desoxyzucker, Thiozucker, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen, sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH- und -NH-Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können,

In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:

• Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,
• Ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols,
• Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts,
• - In particular, monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, as well as protected by conventional and known in the literature te OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters may be present,
• - Aminodeoxyzucker, deoxysugar, thio sugar, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and further in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

All Particularly preferred among these are monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or Lactose as well as protected by usual and in the literature known -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters can.

Farther are preferably oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, wherein these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses as well protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups and furthermore in the form the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester may be present.

Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotiose. Furthermore, the relevant specialist literature such as Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section III, pages 393 and following referenced.

preferred Polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythride, Erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, Mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, Sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose. Especially preferred are glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, Glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose used. However, very particular preference is the use of glucose, Galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or Cellobiose In a particularly preferred embodiment is at least one polyhydroxy compound with at least as active ingredient Contain 2 OH groups. Among these compounds are those with 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and other 1,2-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n - CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.

Important Representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.

Under the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, the glycerol has a outstanding importance.

In summary compositions according to the invention are preferred, in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.

Independently the type of polyhydroxy compound used with at least 2 OH groups are preferred agents according to the invention, which, based on the weight of the agent, 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% polyhydroxy compound (s) included.

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) H (CH ₂ ) _k (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

It it has been found that mixtures "short-chain" Polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long-chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers Have advantages. "Short or long chain" refers in this context, the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol. Particularly preferred are mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more. Preferred are Mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentathylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, of tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, of octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol or tetradecapropyolene glycol, wherein in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that it comprises at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV), in which n is the numbers 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of formula (IV), where n is the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5: 1 to 1: 1.

All Particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols with 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular skeleton. These Polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or be unsaturated. The hydroxy groups are very special preferably terminal adjacent or terminal separated by the rest of the chain. As examples of These polyols may be mentioned: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to one Molecular weight up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, Glycerol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, Pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, Octanediols, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, Octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, 1,12-Dodecanediol with 10 mol EO, dodecadienols.

Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, Anomeric and chiral isomers.

According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds use.

The Polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% up to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1% by weight up to 10% by weight contain.

• – aromatische Alkohole, wie beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Benzylalkohol, Phenethylalkohol, Phenoxyisopropanol,
• – Aldehyde wie beispielsweise Formaldehydlösung und Paraformaldehyd, Glutaraldehyd
• – Parabene, beispielsweise Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben
• – 1,2-Alkandiole mit 5 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kohlenstoffkette, wie beispielsweise 1,2-Pentandiol, 1,2-Hexandiol, 1,2-Heptandiol, 1,2-Dekandiol, 1,2-Dodekandiol, 1,2-Hexadekandiol,
• – Formaldehyd abspaltende Verbindungen, wie beispielsweise DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea
• – Halogenierte Verbindungen wie beispielsweise Isothiazolinone, wie beispielsweise Methylchloroisothiazolinon/Methylisothiazolinone, Triclosan, Triclocarban, Iodopropynylbutylcarbamat, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxan, Chlorhexidindigluconat und Chlorhexidinacetat, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropan-1,3-diol, Methyldibromoglutaronitril,
• – Anorganische Verbindungen wie beispielsweise Sulfite, Borsäure und Borste, Bisulfite,
• – Kationische Substanzen wie beispielsweise Quaternium-15, Benzalkoniumchlorid, Benzethoniumchlorid, Polyaminopropylbiguanid,
• – Organische Säuren und deren physiologisch verträgliche Salze wie beispielsweise Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Essigsäure, Benzoesäure, Sorbinsäure, Salicylsäure, Dehydroacetsäure
• – Aktive Wirkstoffe mit zusätzlichen Wirkungen wie beispielsweise Zink-Pyrithion, Piroctonolamin,
• – Antioxidantien wie beispielsweise BHT (butyliertes Hydroxytoluol), BHA (butyliertes Hydroxyanisol), Propylgallat, t-Butylhydrochinon,
• – Komplexbildner wie beispielsweise EDTA und dessen Derivate, HEDTA und dessen Derivate, Etidronic Acid und deren Salze,
• – Sowie Mischungen der zuvor aufgeführten Stoffe.

Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Particularly preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:

• Aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
• - Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
• Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
• 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2 -Hexadekandiol,
• Formaldehyde releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea
• - Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol , Methyldibromoglutaronitrile,
• Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and bristles, bisulfites,
• Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,
• - Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid
• Active agents with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,
• Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and salts thereof,
• - As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

In Another particularly preferred type of the invention Compositions may also affect the water activity in the Reduced so far compositions according to the invention be that a growth of microorganisms no longer take place can. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.

The inventive compositions contribute help to preserve that in an excellent way possible with the mild preservative additives is. But also the complete absence of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.

The Amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0-2% by weight, more preferably from 0-1% by weight and most especially preferably from 0 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

Further optional ingredients of the invention Compositions are Deodorants. Deodorants can not just used in deodorants to increase underarm sweating prevent. They can also be used in skin care products be used to affect the sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.

The Increase compositions according to the invention clearly demonstrably the deposition of deodorant acting substances on the skin and hair. This is done in the panel test among other things also by a clearly extended lasting Effect noticeable.

As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl, triisopropyl, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® ^® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. Particularly effective are also 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol has proven that is marketed under the brand name Irgasan ^® by Ciba-Geigy, Basle / CH.

The Composition according to the invention can continue be used in coloring agents. In these coloring Means are of course as further ingredients Contain dye precursors.

Further very particularly preferred optional ingredients of the compositions are therefore color material precursors. Among dye precursors are developer-X1 and coupler-type (X2) oxidation dye precursors, natural and synthetic substantive dyes (Y) and precursors of naturally-occurring dyes such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of one or more of these groups

When such can be oxidation dye precursors from the developer (X1) and coupler type (X2), natural and synthetic direct dyes (Y) and precursors of naturally-colored dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, as well as mixtures of representatives one or more of these groups are used.

As developer-type oxidation dye precursors (X1) are usually primary aromatic amines having another, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, Diaminopyridinderivate, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5 , 6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2 , 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl ) -methane, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- ( 2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives EP 0 740 741 respectively. WO 94/08970 such as 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

When Coupler-type oxidation dye precursors (X2) are described in U.S. Pat Usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, Pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives used. examples for such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol mono methyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, Pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Especially suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 compounds known as well as 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4 -Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

In the naturally occurring direct dyes are, for example Henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black Tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, sedre and Contain alcano root.

It it is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, in the inventive Hair dyes, due to the manufacturing process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts other components may be included, as far as they are not Dyeing result adversely affect or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are, for example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts used. Preference is given to using such indoles and indolines, the at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent at the six-ring, exhibit. These groups may have additional substituents wear, z. B. in the form of an etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

The Indoline and indole derivatives in the in the context of the invention Method used colorants both as free bases as well as in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. the hydrochlorides, the sulfates and hydrobromides used.

at the use of dye precursors of the indoline or indole type it may be preferable to combine them with at least one amino acid and / or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Among the α-aminocarboxylic acids In turn, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A most preferred amino acid is arginine, in particular in free form, but also used as hydrochloride.

Either the oxidation dye precursors as well as the substantive Dyes and the precursors of naturally occurring dyes are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy, included.

Of the Advantage, which by the composition according to the invention achieved in conjunction with the dye precursors, is a significantly improved deposition of the dye precursors on the Hair. In addition to increased deposition on the hair, the composition of the invention also causes a faster penetration into the hair. Furthermore, the desired Hair color trained faster. The application time of the composition can be shortened by at least 10% for the same dyeing result. A shortening of the application time is with the invention Combination up to 40% possible with the same dyeing result. All these effects are combined with a simultaneously increased wash resistance of the achieved trained hair color. The invention concludes the doctrine that on the other hand, due to the effects achieved also the concentration of dyes can be significantly reduced can. On the one hand, this is economically important, On the other hand, this also means a considerable improvement the dermatological compatibility of the entire composition.

Another advantage of the inventive compositions containing the invention The active ingredient complex consists in reducing the damage to the keratinic fibers before, during or after the use of oxidizing agents during the dyeing process and / or the world process of the keratinic fibers. The composition according to the invention comprising the combination of active substances according to the invention can in principle be applied to the keratinic fibers before the actual dyeing and / or corrugating process and rinsed again after a contact time of a few minutes to 30 minutes, then the actual dyeing and / or or Well process connects. However, it is also possible and preferred according to the invention if the composition according to the invention containing the combination of active substances according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers together with the dye precursors and the opioid agent and rinsed out again after an exposure time of up to 45 minutes. In the case of a well process, it is also possible and preferred according to the invention if the composition according to the invention containing the combination of active substances, together with the Oxisationsmittel following the reduction step, optionally after performing a further rinsing step for the complete removal of the reducing agent, to the keratinic Fibers is applied and rinsed after a contact time of up to 45 minutes again. In a third variant according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention containing the active substance complex according to the invention may also be formulated as a pure aftertreatment agent and used following an oxidative dyeing process and / or a corona process on the keratinic fibers.

A very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore cosmetic compositions for the fixation of keratinic Fibers following a previous reduction step in the context of performing a well process on keratinic Fibers containing the compositions of the invention and an oxidizing agent, as well as the use of these compositions and a method of performing a corrugation process on keratinic Fibers with the aid of these compositions containing the inventive Active substance complex and an oxidizing agent. According to the invention here also includes that the inventive Active substance complex before the application of the fixing invention Composition as a separate composition as well the composition containing the reducing agent itself the keratinic fibers are applied.

A very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore cosmetic agents for coloring skin and hair, containing the compositions according to the invention and a dye precursor, as well as the use of this agent and a method of hair coloring or freshening hair coloring with this remedy.

hair dyes, especially if the coloration is oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide takes place, are usually weakly acidic to alkaline, i. adjusted to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11. To this Purpose, the colorants include alkalizing, usually Alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are within this group prefers. Also, the use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as an alkalizing agent is possible.

He follows the training of the actual hair colors in the context of an oxidative Process, so common oxidants, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products be used on urea, melamine or sodium borate. The oxidation however, with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible the oxidation to carry out with the help of enzymes, whereby the enzymes both be used for the production of oxidizing per-compounds as well as to enhance the effect of a small amount existing oxidizing agent, or enzymes are used, the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agent) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases are preferred such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but also glucose oxidase, Uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Furthermore, the procedure is mentioned, the effect of small amounts (e.g., 1% and less, based on the total agent) to amplify hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C, preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After egg ner exposure time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30 minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, such as a dyeing shampoo was used.

Especially For hair that is difficult to dye, the preparation may be mixed with the Dye precursors without prior mixing with the oxidation component be applied to the hair. After an exposure time of 20 up to 30 minutes then - possibly after an intermediate rinse - the Oxidation component applied. After another period of exposure from 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and if desired shampooed. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding Medium adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to one second variant, first an air oxidation is sought, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10 has. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation may be the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ^{2 +,} Cu ^{2 +,} Fe ^{+ 2,} Fe ^{+ 3,} Mn ^{+ 2,} Mn ^{4 +,} Li ^+, Mg ^2+, Ca ²⁺ and Al ^3+. Particularly suitable are Zn ^{2 +} , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ^{2 +} . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

As dyes for staining the compositions, the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes can be used, as described for example in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" of the Dye Commission of the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are compiled. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture.

Of the pH of the preparations according to the invention can principally at values of 2-11. The pH will vary depending on the purpose and use of the invention Composition specifically selected and adjusted. For example, it is preferred for colorants between 5 and 11, with values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred are. For cleaning compositions it is for example between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.

to Setting this pH can be virtually any for cosmetic Purpose usable acid or base can be used. preferred Bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Usually are used as acids edible acids. Under consumption acids become such acids understood as part of the usual food intake be absorbed and have positive effects on the human Have an organism. Enjoyable acids are for example Acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, Malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.

It was further found that the effect of the invention Active ingredient in the inventive compositions in Combination with substances, which primary or secondary Contain amino groups, can be further increased. As examples for such amino compounds may be mentioned ammonia, Monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these can Amines also in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids are used, such as as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are with the inventive Active ingredient together in ratios of 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, and most preferably in stoichiometric Amounts used.

Also, erotic solvents, such as water, and alcohols may be included in the compositions of the invention. The alcohols used are all physiologically unsuitable alcohols, for example methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof with one another. The proportion of erotic solvents in each case complements the composition according to the invention to 100 parts by weight. At least 30% by weight of erotic solvents, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight, are preferred in the cosmetic compositions most preferably at least 75% by weight and most preferably at least 85% by weight of erotic solvents.

Farther may in a most preferred embodiment the invention, the UV filter (I) can be used. The invention according to are used in terms of their structure and their physical properties no general restrictions. On the contrary, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable. their absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

The UV filters used according to the invention can for example, be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhex ylester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl } -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo He liopan ^® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2 Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept- 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethyl ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4 -methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 'ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-ox Oborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide.

Completely according to the invention Particularly preferred are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-Methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, should these compounds in common cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0, 1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

Of the Structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing radiation Group. This group can in principle be distinguished from the known, in the Cosmetic area usable, derived above UV filters, in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary Amino function, is replaced.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamic acid amide or N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide derive, are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filter both in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range can lie. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.

Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above from 20000, lies.

Of the Structural part Q preferably contains as a cationic group a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the represents a positively charged nitrogen atom. However, it is preferred one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, as the connection between the structural part U and the positively charged Nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _X -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological Compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, Tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course includes the teaching of the invention also the use of a combination of multiple UV filters. As part of In this embodiment, the combination is at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter preferred with a cationic group.

The UV filters (I) are used in the invention Usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z.B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z.B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z.B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure, Iminodibersnsteinsäure und derne Salze, Etidronic acid und deren Salze und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z.B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and salts thereof, Etidronic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Reducing agents such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - antioxidants.

In terms of additional optional components and the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art known pertinent manuals, e.g. the monograph by K. H. Schrader.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for hair treatment, in which the inventive Composition is incorporated into the wet hair, and the Composition after a contact time of a few seconds to rinsed for 45 minutes with cold up to about 40 ° C warm water if necessary, the hair is dried with a towel, then another nourishing and conditioning composition B is incorporated in the towel dry to wet hair, wherein this composition for a few seconds up to 30 minutes the hair remains, and then rinsed out If necessary, the hair is dried with a towel followed by a hair-drying step to complete the hair to dry, and ultimately a hairdressing and styling composition C is added to the hair and preferably not rinsed out again becomes. Both the composition B as nourishing and conditioning Composition as well as the composition C can of course again the composition according to the invention contain. It is preferred if at least the composition B also the composition of the invention contains.

The inventive method also includes that the If necessary, repeat the first step of shampooing can be.

As packaging for the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, in principle, all known in the art packaging can be used. In particular, these are crucibles, tubes, bottles, sachets. In this case, different embodiments with respect to the shape and the color are possible. However, it is preferred if the packaging has at least a transparent portion of at least 15% of the outer packaging surface. Even better suited to bring out the aesthetic appearance is a proportion of at least 30% of the transparent surface, but in particular of 50%, However, at least 75% of this and at least 85% of its surface area are excellent.

In an embodiment of the invention can Compositions of the invention of two discrete independent phases or even two completely Discrete independent compositions in consist of a common outer packaging. In the latter case can the composition of the invention both in be one of the two compositions, as well as in each of the compositions or the composition of the invention may only in the mixture until the application separated from each other yielded compositions. In these cases The separately prepared compositions are also each packed separately in separate containers. As a container In doing so, all those known to the person skilled in the art and customary for hair treatment agents come Packaging such as tubes, bottles or crucibles into consideration. In a further embodiment of the invention For example, one of the compositions may be in one of the abovementioned Packaging should be bottled so that it comes in portions At least 0.5 to 20 g can be removed in a slightly dosed manner. This can for example be done in the case of a squeeze tube, that on the outside of the tube in 0.5 ml increments markings are attached. These marks then allow the removal defined volumes of the basic composition. In the case of a crucible For example, an enclosed spoon with a defined filling volume of about 0.5 ml to 5.0 ml allow the removal of defined amounts. Within This last embodiment may further include a composition most preferably packed in a package, from which the composition can be taken exactly volumendosiert. The accuracy of the volume dosage is at least 0.1 ml. Particularly preferred is a dosing accuracy of 0.25 ml, and most preferably at least 0.5 ml. As an example for such a Dosierverpackung is a bottle, tube or crucible with an added pipette. Of course It is also possible, this composition in one small container made of glass or plastic to fill and comparable to the medical packaging of ear drops with a closure in which a pipette incorporated is to close. Alternatively, the packaging can also enclosed with a pipette for dosing. As another component of this Embodiment is for example the lid of the package the basic composition designed so that in this Cover the appropriate volumes of the two compositions can mix with each other. For this purpose, the lid in a preferred embodiment have a curvature and volumes of at least 5 to 50 ml can absorb. Furthermore, the mixing and subsequent application of ready-to-use blending made easier from the two compositions with a brush or spatula become. All necessary packs are then in a common Outer packaging offered.

In a further embodiment of the invention The two compositions can be used in a corresponding 2 chamber packaging to be packaged. Such packaging is available in stores. The two compositions could then separated and in variable quantities from the respective chambers be removed and in a separate container with each other be mixed.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, for example, a two-chamber tube can be used. Such tubes are used for example in the DE 102004009424 described. In such tubes, the volume of the products to be removed from the individual containers is variably adjustable. The two products are then mixed either in a separate mixing container or in the hand immediately before use.

In Another particularly preferred embodiment a two-chamber container used, which consists of two dosing dispensers consists. Each dosing dispenser can be used separately and separately independent of the other dispenser with respect to the pumping system be regulated so that the respective container too resulting product quantities are variable. For example, this can be through two cartridges, each containing an airtight sealed Towing piston is done. The mixing of the two compositions Ideally this can be done in the dispenser head. Such packaging are commercially available, for example, from the company DIALPACK GmbH.

All Embodiments with two discreetly separated Containing phases at the latest after mixing these both discrete phases of the invention Active substance complex have in common that in the outer packaging of all Individual components a detailed instruction manual for determining the initial state of the hair and based thereon Recommendation for the optimal mixing ratio the compositions is included.

Examples and proofs of effect

All Quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

1. Proof of effect

preparation

strands from Alkinco (1.0 g, code 6634) were mixed with 2.0 g of a solution from 10.0% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO) for 2 minutes shampooed. It was then under flowing for 1 minute Water rinsed from 23 ° C and the strand of hair dried with a hairdryer. It was followed by a conventional Permanent waving treatments with 2.0 g of the commercial product Poly Lock-Normal Perm. As part of this perming treatment, the fibers became in a first step for 40 minutes at room temperature the reducing solution (containing 7.9% by weight of thioglycolic acid) suspended, with pure water at a temperature of 23 ° C rinsed under running water for 1 minute, dried with a towel and then at room temperature for 10 minutes with 2.0 g of an oxidizing solution fixed. The oxidation solution contained 2.6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide. After the oxidative treatment, the fibers were again used for Rinsed under running water at 23 ° C for 1 minute and then dried with a hair dryer. The permanent wave treatment was totally under identical conditions performed twice.

a) aftertreatment

The Strands were each at a temperature of 32 ° C 30 minutes in a 1% aqueous solution of respective active ingredients with 0.2 wt .-% Ceteareth-25 as an emulsifier at a pH of 7, which with sodium hydroxide or hydrochloric acid was set, dived. In the case of the drug complex out Amaranth seed oil and squalene or not according to the invention Olive oils were the quantities of each active ingredient in Wt .-% noted and in each case with 0.2 wt .-% ceteareth-25 as Emulsifier offset. After treatment with the respective active substance composition each strand of hair was rinsed with clear water for 1 minute, air-dried and allowed to rest for 16 hours.

b) Proof of the hair-structuring effect using HP-DSC

By means of a DSC analysis (Perkin Elmer DSC-7), the following melting points shown in Table 1 were determined. A detailed description of the method can be found for example in the DE 196 173 95 A1 Active substance or active substance complex Melting point in ° C 1. Without active ingredient 149.0 2. Olive oil (1.0% by weight) 151.3 3. Squalene (0.1% by weight) 149.3 4. Polyquaternium-10 (0.1% by weight) 149.5 5. Amaranth seed oil (0.5% by weight) 155.2 6. Olive oil (0.5% by weight) and camelina oil (0.5% by weight) and squalene (0.1% by weight) 158.0 7. Amaranth seed oil (0.8% by weight) and sea buckthorn oil (0.2% by weight) 159.1

The Significance level of drug complexes 5 to 7 over the value without active substance is> 99%.

The active substance complexes from the above table (the serial numbers 5 to 7 against the solutions of the serial numbers 1 to 4) were further examined in the half-page test. For this purpose, 40 test persons with different hair bases (dyed, normal, permed, bleached, permed and bleached, etc.) were each washed with 10.0 g of a solution of 10.0% by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2EO) for 2 minutes and washed with dried the towel. The prepared hair was parted in the middle. 2.5 g of the respective test solutions were sprayed onto each half as a non-aerosol. After 3 minutes, the hairs were washed again for 2 minutes. Subsequently, the wet and after drying with a hair dryer, the dry hair of 4 hairdressing professionals was assessed. The compositions of the active compound complexes with the serial numbers 5 to 7 were in the wet and dry combabilities, as well as Handle in wet and dry hair, the volume and shine assessed much better. Furthermore, in these complexes of active ingredients, a clearly long-lasting effect with regard to the volume, the gloss and the configurability of the hairstyle and the hold of the hairstyle. 2. Further Formulation Examples: Shampoo: 1 2 3 Citric acid, anhydrous 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (25%) 50.0 50.0 50.0 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate 7.0 7.0 7.0 salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 D-panthenol (75%) 0.2 0.2 0.2 Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Euperlan PK 3000 AM 2.0 2.0 2.0 Cetiol HE 2.0 2.0 2.0 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2.0 2.0 2.0 Polymer JR 400 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sea Buckthorn Oil 0.1 0.2 - Amaranth seed oil 0.5 - - macadamia nut oil 0.2 - - olive oil - 0.4 0.25 squalene - 0.05 0.01 Camelina oil - - 0.25 Sodium Chloride 0.5 0.5 0.5 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Aufbaucreme: Sea Buckthorn Oil 0.2 Dehyquart F 75 2.0 Amaranth seed oil 0.5 Varisoft W 75 PG 1.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.5 Emulmetic 100 0.4 amodimethicone 0.2 Cutina CP 0.7 stearamidopropyldimethylamines 1.0 cetyltrimethylammonium 0.75 Citric acid, anhydrous 0.5 methylparaben 0.2 phenoxyethanol 0.2 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 Gluadin W 20 1.0 Perfume 0.4 Salcare SC 96 1.0 water Ad 100 Leave in Treatment: Synthetic K 0.25 Sepigel 305 2.6 Sea Buckthorn Oil 0.1 Dehyquart F 75 0.5 Neutrol TE 0.75 Amaranth oil 0.75 Perfume 0.3 D-panthenol 75% 0.5 Luviskol K 30 0.5 Gafquat 755 N 0.5 Dow Corning 1401 1.0 Ethanol 96% 15.0 water Ad 100 Intensivhaarkur: Varisoft W 75 PG 1.5 macadamia nut oil 1.0 Dehyquart F 75 2.0 stearamidopropyldimethylamines 1.0 Sea Buckthorn Oil 1.5 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0 Cutina GMS-V 1.0 Citric acid anhydrous 0.3 cetyltrimethylammonium 1.25 Salcare SC 96 0.5 Perfume 0.4 squalene 0.01 Gluadin W 20 1.0 water Ad 100

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

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Claims (6)

Cosmetic compositions containing a combination of active ingredients containing palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid, characterized in that within the mixture of these fatty acids and / or their glycerides at least 50 wt .-% of the fatty acids and / or their glycerides from the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and Linoleic acid must exist. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized that in addition to the fatty acids Palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid and / or its glycerides continue to be at least a linolenic acid is included. Cosmetic composition according to one of the claims 1 or 2, characterized in that as fatty acids and / or their glycerides are natural oils and their mixtures be used. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of the claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the active ingredient combination continues Sqalen contains. Method of treating keratinous fibers by characterized in that a composition according to a of Applicability 1 to 4 applied to the keratinic fibers and after a contact time of a few seconds all the way to Rinsed again for 45 minutes. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4 for the care, conditioning and the Maintaining the natural lipid coat keratinischer Fibers.