DE102010038358A1 - Double salt antiperspirant roll-ons - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions which are particularly suitable for application with a roller applicator and which have high storage stability, a non-greasy skin feel and particularly fast drying characteristics, at least one antiperspirant active ingredient, at least one double salt of the alum type with the general Formula MIMIII (SO4) 2 x2O (with MI = a monovalent cation, selected from potassium, sodium, rubidium, cesium and ammonium ions; MIII = a trivalent cation selected from aluminum, gallium, indium , Scandium, titanium and vanadium ions; x = rational number in the range from 0 to 12, including 0) and 0.0005-5% by weight of at least one silicon oxide-containing compound selected from hydrophobically modified silicas and hydrophobically modified ones Layered silicates and at least one polysaccharide contain.

Description

The present invention relates to antiperspirant roll-ons of the type of oil-in-water cosmetic emulsions, which are particularly suitable for application with a roll applicator and have a high storage stability, a non-greasy feel on the skin and a particularly rapid drying characteristics, wherein the emulsions contain a low content of oil or fat phase and at least one polysaccharide.

Antiperspirant or antiperspirant compositions are an important part of daily personal hygiene. They should ensure that the sweat production is reduced and formed sweat does not lead to unpleasant body odor. Antiperspirant active ingredients, in particular based on aluminum salts, are already well known in the art. The use of alum, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, as a deodorizing agent for reducing body odor is known. However, the known active ingredients are still in need of improvement in their sweat-reducing or deodorizing action.

The object of the present application was therefore to provide an antiperspirant cosmetic composition with improved antiperspirant and deodorant action.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the stated object is achieved by compositions comprising a mixture of at least one alum-type double salt having the general formula M ^I M ^III (SO ₄ ) ₂ .xH ₂ O (where M ^I = a monovalent cation, selected from potassium, sodium, rubidium, cesium and ammonium ions; M ^III = a trivalent cation selected from aluminum, gallium, indium, scandium, titanium and vanadium ions; x = rational number in the range of 0 to 12, inclusive 0) and at least one antiperspirant active selected from aluminum chlorhydroxides, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates and mixtures thereof.

All information on the states of aggregation of the starting materials used (solid, liquid ...) in this application are based on normal conditions. "Normal conditions" in the sense of the present application, a temperature of 20 ° C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar. Melting point data also refer to a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.

• a. mindestens einen schweißhemmenden Wirkstoff, ausgewählt aus Aluminiumchlorhydroxiden, Aluminiumzirconiumchlorhydraten und Mischungen hiervon,
• b. mindestens ein Doppelsalz vom Alaun-Typ mit der allgemeinen Formel M^IM^III(SO₄)₂·xH₂O, wobei M^I ein einwertiges Kation, ausgewählt aus Kalium-, Natrium-, Rubidium-, Cäsium- und Ammonium-Ionen, darstellt, M^III ein dreiwertiges Kation, ausgewählt aus Aluminium-, Gallium-, Indium-, Scandium-, Titan- und Vanadium-Ionen, darstellt und x eine rationale Zahl im Bereich von 0 bis 12, einschließlich 0, darstellt;
• c. 0,0005–1 Gew.-%, mindestens einer Siliciumoxid-haltigen Verbindung, ausgewählt aus hydrophilen Kieselsäuren und/oder hydrophob modifizierten Kieselsäuren und/oder Schichtsilikaten,
• d. mindestens ein Polysaccharid,

wobei die Zusammensetzung als Creme, Gel, Lösung oder auf einem Substrat imprägniert konfektioniert ist.A first object of the present invention are hydrous emulsions containing, by weight

• a. at least one antiperspirant active selected from aluminum chlorhydroxides, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates and mixtures thereof,
• b. at least one alum-type double salt having the general formula M ^I M ^III (SO ₄ ) ₂ .xH ₂ O, where M ^{I is} a monovalent cation selected from potassium, sodium, rubidium, cesium and ammonium ions, M ^{III represents} a trivalent cation selected from aluminum, gallium, indium, scandium, titanium and vanadium ions, and x represents a rational number in the range of 0 to 12, inclusive 0;
• c. 0.0005-1% by weight, of at least one silicon oxide-containing compound selected from hydrophilic silicas and / or hydrophobically modified silicas and / or phyllosilicates,
• d. at least one polysaccharide,

wherein the composition is formulated as a cream, gel, solution or impregnated on a substrate.

The antiperspirant active ingredient a) is selected from aluminum chlorhydroxides, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates and mixtures thereof.

Preferred antiperspirant active ingredients a) are water-soluble. According to the invention, water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active are soluble in 95 g of water at 20 ° C.

Particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 1-6H ₂ O] _n , preferably [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 2-3H ₂ O] _n , which may be in unactivated or activated (depolymerized) form, and aluminum chlorohydrate of the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ Cl ₂ .1-6H ₂ O] _n , preferably [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ Cl ₂ 2-3H ₂ O] _n , which may be in unactivated or activated (depolymerized) form. The preparation of preferred antiperspirant active ingredients is for example in US 3887692 . US 3904741 . US 4359456 . GB 2048229 and GB 1347950 disclosed.

Also preferred are aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum or aluminum zirconium glycol complexes, e.g. Aluminum or aluminum zirconium-propylene glycol complexes, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex, aluminum hydroxide, further selected from

Aluminiumzirconiumchlorhydraten as Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrat, the aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes, such as Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrexglycin, sodium aluminum, Aluminiumchlorhydroxyallantoinat and sodium aluminum Chlorhydroxylactat. Antiperspirant active ingredients which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from what are known as "activated" aluminum chlorhydroxides and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, which are also referred to as "enhanced activity" as antiperspirant active ingredients.

Such agents are known in the art and are also commercially available. Their production is for example in GB 2048229 . US 4775528 and US 6010688 disclosed. Activated aluminum chlorhydroxides and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates are typically produced by heat treating a relatively dilute solution of the salt (eg, about 10% by weight of salt) to increase its HPLC peak 4-to-peak 3 area ratio. The activated salt can then be dried to a powder, in particular spray-dried. In addition to the spray drying z. B. also suitable for drum drying. Activated aluminum chlorhydroxides and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates typically have a HPLC peak 4-to-peak 3 area ratio of at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.7, more preferably at least 0.9, with at least 70% of the aluminum attributable to these peaks.

Activated aluminum chlorhydroxides and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates do not necessarily have to be used as a spray-dried powder. Antiperspirant active ingredients which are likewise preferred according to the invention are nonaqueous solutions or solubilisates of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, for example according to US 6010688 characterized by the addition of an effective amount of a polyhydric alcohol having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably propylene glycol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol, against the loss of activation against the rapid degradation of the HPLC peak 4: peak 3-area ratio of the salt are stabilized. For example, preferred are compositions containing by weight (USP): 12-45% by weight, based on the total composition, of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, 55-82% by weight of at least one anhydrous polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol, more preferably propylene glycol. Also particularly preferred are complexes of activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts with a polyhydric alcohol containing 20-50% by weight, more preferably 20-42% by weight, activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 2-16% by weight % molecularly bound water, the remainder to 100 wt .-% is at least one polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Propylene glycol, propylene glycol / sorbitol mixtures and propylene glycol / pentaerythritol mixtures are preferred such alcohols. Such inventively preferred complexes of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt with a polyhydric alcohol are, for. B. disclosed in US 5643558 and US 6245325 ,

Further preferred antiperspirant active substances are basic calcium aluminum salts, as used, for example, in US Pat US 2571030 are disclosed. These salts are prepared by reacting calcium carbonate with aluminum chlorhydroxide or aluminum chloride and aluminum powder or by adding calcium chloride dihydrate to aluminum chlorhydroxide.

Further preferred antiperspirant active compounds are aluminum-zirconium complexes, as described, for example, in US Pat US 4017599 are disclosed, which are buffered with salts of amino acids, in particular with alkali and Erdalkaliglycinaten.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts, as described, for example, in US Pat US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 5-78% by weight (USP) of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, an amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid in such an amount to give an (amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid) (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 2 : 1-1: 20 and preferably 1: 1 to 1:10 provide, as well as a water-soluble Calcium salt in an amount to provide a Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 1: 1-1: 28 and preferably 1: 2-1: 25.

Particularly preferred solid activated antiperspirant salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 48-78 wt .-% (USP), preferably 66-75 wt .-% of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16 wt .-%, preferably 4-13 wt .-% molecularly bound water ( Water of hydration), further enough water-soluble calcium salt, that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much amino acid that the amino acid becomes (Al + Zr) Weight ratio 2: 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 48-78 wt .-% (USP), preferably 66-75 wt .-% of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16 wt .-%, preferably 4-13 wt .-% molecularly bound water ( Water of hydration), further enough water-soluble calcium salt, that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and enough glycine that the glycine is (Al + Zr) Weight ratio 2: 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, so much water-soluble calcium salt that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much hydroxyalkanoic acid that the hydroxyalkanoic acid becomes (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Preferred water-soluble calcium salts for the stabilization of antiperspirant salts are selected from calcium chloride, calcium bromide, calcium nitrate, calcium citrate, calcium formate, calcium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium ascorbate, calcium lactate, calcium glycinate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred amino acids for the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts are selected from glycine, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, β-alanine, valine, cysteine, serine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, β-amino-n-butanoic acid and γ-amino-n-butanoic acid and the salts thereof, each in the d-form, the l-form and the dl-form; Glycine is particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxyalkanoic acids for the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts are selected from glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts, as described, for example, in US Pat US 6902723 containing 5-78% by weight (USP) of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, an amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid in such an amount to give an (amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid) (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 2 : 1-1: 20 and preferably 1: 1 to 1:10, and a water-soluble strontium salt in such an amount to have a Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 1: 1-1: 28, and preferably 1: 2 -1: 25 provide.

Particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further, enough water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much amino acid that the amino acid becomes (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further enough water soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1 1:28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much glycine that the glycine to (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2: 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10, is.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further enough so much water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and enough hydroxyalkanoic acid that the hydroxyalkanoic acid becomes (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further preferred activated aluminum salts are those of the general formula Al ₂ (OH) _6-a Xa in which X is Cl, Br, I or NO ₃ and "a" is a value of 0.3 to 5, preferably of 0.8 to 2 , 5 and more preferably 1 to 2, such that the molar ratio of Al: X is 0.9: 1 to 2.1: 1, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat US 6074632 are disclosed. These salts generally associate some hydration water, typically 1 to 6 moles of water per mole of salt. Particularly preferred is aluminum chlorohydrate (ie, X is Cl in the aforementioned formula) and especially 5/6 basic aluminum chlorohydrate wherein "a" is 1 such that the molar ratio of aluminum to chlorine is 1.9: 1 to 2.1: 1 ,

Preferred activated aluminum-zirconium salts are those which are mixtures or complexes of the aluminum salts described above with zirconium salts of the formula ZrO (OH) _2-pb Y _b represent wherein Y is Cl, Br, I, NO ₃ or SO _4, b is a rational number from 0.8 to 2 and p is the valence of Y, as described, for example, in US 6074632 are disclosed. The zirconium salts also typically associate some hydration water associatively, typically 1 to 7 moles of water per mole of salt. Preferably, the zirconium salt is zirconyl hydroxychloride of the formula ZrO (OH) _2-b Cl _b , wherein b is a rational number of from 0.8 to 2, preferably from 1.0 to 1.9. Preferred aluminum-zirconium salts have an Al: Zr molar ratio of 2 to 10 and a metal: (X + Y) ratio of 0.73 to 2.1, preferably 0.9 to 1.5. A particularly preferred salt is aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate (ie, X and Y are Cl), which has an Al: Zr ratio of 2 to 10 and a molar metal: Cl ratio of 0.9 to 2.1. The term aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate includes the tri-, tetra-, penta- and octachlorohydrate forms.

Zirconium salts preferred according to the invention have the general formula ZrO (OH) _2-a Cl _a .x H ₂ O where a = 1.5-1.87; x = 1-7, where a and x are rational numbers. These zirconium salts are, for example, in the Belgian script BE 825146 disclosed.

Further preferred antiperspirant active substances are in US 6663854 and US 20040009133 disclosed.

The antiperspirant active ingredients can be present both in solubilized and in undissolved, suspended form.

If the antiperspirant active ingredients are suspended in a water-immiscible carrier, it is preferred for reasons of product stability that the active ingredient particles have a number average particle size of 0.1-200 .mu.m, preferably 1-100 .mu.m, particularly preferably 3-80 .mu.m and extraordinarily preferably 5-60 μm. Preferred aluminum salts and aluminum zirconium salts have a metal-to-chloride molar ratio of 0.9-1.3, preferably 0.9-1.1, more preferably 0.9-1.0. Preferred aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates generally have the empirical formula Al _n Zr (OH) _{[(3n + 4-m (n + 1)]} (Cl) _{[m (n + 1)]} where n = 2.0-10.0 3.0-8.0, m = 0.77-1.11 (corresponding to a molar metal (Al + Zr) to chloride ratio of 1.3-0.9), preferably m = 0.91 1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 1.1-0.9), and particularly preferably m = 1.00-1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 1.0-0.9), furthermore very preferably m = 1.02-1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 0.98-0.9) and more preferably m = 1.04-1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 0.96-0.9).

In general, some of the water of hydration is associatively bound to these salts, typically 1-6 moles of water per mole of salt, corresponding to 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of water of hydration.

Usually, the preferred aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates are associated with an amino acid to prevent polymerization of the zirconium species during manufacture. Preferred stabilizing amino acids are selected from glycine, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, β-alanine, cysteine, valine, serine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, β-amino-n-butanoic acid and γ-amino-n-butanoic acid and the salts thereof, each in the d-form, the l-form and the dl-form; Glycine is particularly preferred. The amino acid is contained in the salt in an amount of 1-3 moles, preferably 1.3-1.8 moles, per mole of zirconium.

Preferred antiperspirant salts are aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate (Al: Zr = 2-6, M: Cl = 0.9-1.3), in particular salts having a molar metal to chloride ratio of 0.9-1.1, preferably 0.9 -1.0.

Also preferred according to the invention are aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate-glycine salts which are stabilized with betaine ((CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ). Particularly preferred corresponding compounds have a total molar (betaine + glycine) / Zr ratio of (0.1-3.0): 1, preferably (0.7-1.5): 1, and a molar Ratio of betaine to glycine of at least 0.001: 1. Corresponding compounds are disclosed in, for example US 7105691 , In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the particularly effective antiperspirant salt comprises a so-called "activated" salt, in particular one with a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content, in particular with a peak 5 surface of at least 33%, particularly preferred at least 45%, based on the total area under peaks 2-5, measured by HPLC of a 10% by weight aqueous solution of the active ingredient under conditions in which the aluminum species are resolved into at least 4 consecutive peaks (with peaks 5). Preferred aluminum zirconium salts having a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content (also referred to as "E ⁵ AZCH") are disclosed, for example, in US Pat US 6436381 and US 6649152 , Furthermore, those activated "E ⁵ AZCH" salts whose HPLC peak has a 4-to-peak 3 area ratio of at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.7, particularly preferably at least 0.9, are preferred.

Further particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are those aluminum zirconium salts having a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content, which are additionally stabilized with a water-soluble strontium salt and / or with a water-soluble calcium salt. Corresponding salts are, for example, in US 6923952 disclosed. Further preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from astringent titanium salts, as used, for example, in US Pat GB 2299506 A are disclosed.

The antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as nonaqueous solutions or as glycolic solubilisates.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient is present in an amount of 5-40% by weight, preferably 10-38% by weight and more preferably 13-35% by weight on the total weight of the anhydrous active substance (USP) in the total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an astringent aluminum salt, especially aluminum chlorohydrate, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine or Microdry from Reheis, Microdry sold 323 from Summit as Chlorhydrol ^® as well as in activated form as Reach ^® 501 from Reheis. Under the name ^Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered, which is likewise particularly preferred. Also particularly preferred are activated aluminum chlorohydrates which are available under the names ^Reach® 101 and ^Reach® 103 from Reheis / Summit. The use of aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal ^® 36 GP or, in activated quality than Reach ^® 908 as a powder in the trade, may be particularly preferred in the present invention.

As the deodorizing agent whose action is synergistically improved together with one of the above-mentioned antiperspirant active ingredients and together with a silica-containing compound selected from hydrophobically modified silicic acids and hydrophobically modified layered silicates, at least one alum-type double salt is the general one formula M ^I M ^III (SO _{4) 2} · xH ₂ O., wherein M ^I is a monovalent cation selected from potassium, sodium, rubidium, cesium and ammonium ions, M ^III is a trivalent cation selected from aluminum , Gallium, indium, scandium, titanium and vanadium ions, and x represent a rational number in the range of 0 to 12, including 0.

Particularly preferred are the double salts with M ^III = aluminum ion, in particular KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O , NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O , NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .9H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .10H ₂ O, NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .11H ₂ O and NH ₄ Al (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ , RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1 1H ₂ O and RbAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ 3H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NaAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and KSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ . 4H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NH ₄ Sc (SO ₄ ) ₂ x 12H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ , RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and RbSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ .9H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NaSc (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and KGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O , NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NH ₄ Ga (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ , RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and RbGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NaGa (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, KTi ( SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and KTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ 5H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NH ₄ Ti (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ , RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 8H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .10H ₂ O, RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .11H ₂ O and RbTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ , NaTi (SO ₄ ) _2. 1H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .4H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ x 6H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ .9H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ x 10H ₂ O, NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and NaTi (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O.

Particularly preferred are KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .3H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ . 4H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .5H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .6H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, KAl SO ₄ ) ₂ · 9H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 10H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 11H ₂ O and KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O.

Salts with a water content of less than 12 molecules per molecule of alum are produced by heating alum. From a temperature of about 60 ° C up to 25% of the water of crystallization already escape, preferred temperatures for further dewatering are 500 ° C or less, preferably 300 ° C or less, more preferably 250 ° C or less, most preferably 200 ° C or less, most preferably 90-150 ° C. Completely dewatered alums (also called fired alum) or partially dewatered alums may be better dispersed, at least in higher concentrations, than alums having a water of crystallinity less than 12 molecules per molecule and may therefore be preferred for the spray compositions of the present invention. After completion of the dewatering process to the desired level of water of crystallization, the alum is brought to the desired particle size by milling or other crushing and screening processes. Alum particles which have a number-average particle size of 0.1-150 μm, preferably 1-80 μm, particularly preferably 5-60 μm and extraordinarily preferably 10-30 μm, are preferred for the compositions according to the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the double salt of the alum type b) is selected from KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .1H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .2H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .9H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .10H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .11H ₂ O and KAl ( SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, as well as mixtures thereof.

The amounts mentioned and water of crystallization relate to the raw material used in the preparation of the compositions according to the invention. Since the compositions according to the invention are emulsions, the double salts are dissolved in the aqueous phase and thus have no crystal water content in the product but are dissociated.

To improve the antiperspirant and deodorant action of the combination of aluminum chlorhydroxides and aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, the compositions according to the invention contain 0.0005-1% by weight, based on the total composition, of at least one silicon oxide-containing compound selected from hydrophilic silicic acids and / or hydrophobically modified silicic acids and / or phyllosilicates.

Preferred hydrophobicized phyllosilicates are selected from hydrophobized montmorillonites, hydrophobized hectorites and hydrophobized bentonites, particularly preferably disteardimonium Hectorite, stearalkonium hectorite, quaternium-18 hectorite and quaternium-18 bentonite. These hydrophobized phyllosilicates are preferred in the form of a gel in an oil component, preferably in cyclomethicones and / or a non-silicone oil component, such as. For example, propylene carbonate. The gelation takes place by the addition of small amounts of activators, in particular ethanol or propylene carbonate, but also water. Such gels are for example available under the trade name Bentone ^® or Thixogel. Preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one activator in a total amount of 0.1-3% by weight, preferably 0.3-2.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Further preferred compositions of the invention contain at least one activator selected from ethanol, propylene carbonate and water and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.1-3 wt .-%, preferably 0.3-2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition of the invention. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one hydrophobicized layered silicate in a total amount of 0.5-7% by weight, preferably 1-3.5% by weight, particularly preferably 2-3% by weight, in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Hydrophobically modified silicas which are preferred according to the invention are selected from hydrophobically modified pyrogenic silicic acids, eg. As the commercial products of Aerosil ^® series from Evonik Degussa, particularly preferably silica silylate, and silica dimethyl silylate. Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one hydrophobically modified silicic acid, preferably at least one hydrophobically modified pyrogenic silicic acid, in a total amount of 0.5-3.5% by weight, preferably 0.8-3% by weight, more preferably 1-2.5 wt .-%, most preferably 1.5-2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Further inventively preferred compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one hydrophobized fumed silica and at least one hydrophilic silica.

Water-containing antiperspirant compositions, formulated as a cream, gel, suspension or solution, usually contain, in addition to the perspiration-reducing active ingredients, at least one cosmetic oil as a carrier for the particulate, sweat-reducing active ingredient.

Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the water-containing carrier d) comprises at least one cosmetic oil.

Cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from silicone oils, to which z. As dialkyl and alkylaryl, such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, low molecular weight phenyl trimethicone and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane include. Particularly preferred are volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning (vapor pressure at 20 ° C about 13-15 Pa) are included. Likewise particularly preferred are volatile linear silicone oils having 2-10 siloxane units, in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L ₄ ) and any mixtures of two and three of L ₂ , L ₃ and / or L _{4 are} preferred such mixtures, as they are for. B. in the commercial products Dow Corning ^® 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Another preferred volatile silicone oil is a low molecular weight phenyl trimethicone having a vapor pressure at 20 ° C of about 2000 Pa as available, for example, from GE Bayer Silicones / Momentive under the name Bayilone Fluid PD 5.

Volatile silicone oils are excellently suitable carrier oils for antiperspirant compositions which are preferred according to the invention, since they give them a pleasant feel on the skin and a low level of clothes soiling. Antiperspirant compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are therefore by a content of at least one volatile silicone oil of 30-95 wt .-%, preferably 40-93 wt .-%, particularly preferably 50-90% by weight, exceptionally preferably 55-85% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In addition to or instead of the at least one volatile silicone oil, at least one volatile non-silicone oil may also be present. Preferred volatile non-silicone oils are selected from C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoparaffins, especially isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to C ₁₀ -C ₁₃ isoparaffin mixtures, in particular those having a vapor pressure at 20 ° C. of about 300-400 Pa, preferably 360 Pa. This at least one volatile non-silicone oil is also preferred in a total amount of 30-95% by weight, preferably 40-93% by weight, more preferably 50-90% by weight, most preferably 55-85% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Because of the drier skin feel and the faster release of the active ingredient, volatile silicone oils, isoparaffins, in particular isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane, and mixtures of volatile silicone oils and isoparaffins, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane or isoeicosane, are particularly preferred ,

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one carrier oil b) which is liquid under normal conditions comprises at least one isoparaffin oil, in particular isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the carrier oil which is liquid under normal conditions b) is a mixture of b) i) a volatile silicone oil selected from cyclomethicones and linear polydimethylsiloxanes having 2-10 siloxane units, and b) ii) at least one isoparaffin oil, Isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosan.

In addition to the abovementioned substances, which are commonly referred to as "volatile" silicone oils, as well as the abovementioned volatile non-silicone oils, antiperspirant compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention may further comprise at least one nonvolatile cosmetic oil selected from nonvolatile silicone oils and non-volatile non-silicone oils. The at least one non-volatile oil compensates for the negative effect of the volatile oil on the residue behavior according to the invention preferred antiperspirant compositions. Due to the relatively rapid evaporation of the volatile. Oils can be solid, insoluble constituents, especially the antiperspirant active ingredients, visible on the skin as an ugly residue. These residues can be successfully masked with a nonvolatile oil. In addition, with a mixture of non-volatile and volatile oils, parameters such as skin feel, residue visibility and suspension stability can be fine-tuned and better adapted to consumer needs.

Of course, it is also possible to formulate hydrous antiperspirant compositions with a low level of volatile oils or even without volatile oils.

Preferred nonvolatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g. Example under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid having kinematic viscosities (25 ° C) in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 6-50 cSt, or even 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M (with a kinematic viscosity (25 ° C) of about 350 cSt.

Silicone oils which are likewise preferred according to the invention are selected from silicones of the formula (Sil-1), where x is selected from integers of 1-20.

A preferred silicone oil of formula (Sil-1) is available under the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone in various grades, viscosities and volatilities. A non-volatile phenyl trimethicone is available, for example, from Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 556.

Natural and synthetic hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes or polydecenes, the ^®, for example, under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ^® from Albemarle or Nexbase 2004G from Nestle are available, as well as 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (obtainable, for. example, under the. tradenames Cetiol ^® S from Cognis) also belong to the present invention the preferred non-volatile non-silicone oils.

Further non-volatile non-silicone oils which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _8-22 -alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® EB, and Benzoesäureoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® BOD. Benzoic acid ester oils of this type are particularly suitable for masking antiperspirant active substance residues, since their refractive index comes very close to the particularly effective aluminum-zirconium mixed salts.

Further non-volatile non-silicone oils which are preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24th

Other preferred non-volatile non-silicone oils are selected from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. As the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate).

Further non-volatile non-silicone oils which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable, the use of natural oils, eg. Example, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, olive oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. As the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues.

Further non-volatile non-silicone oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₆ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2 ethylhexylsuccinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further non-volatile non-silicone oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or non-volatile non-silicone oils having 6-30 carbon unsaturated fatty alcohols with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also preferred are isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate , Erucyl oleate and erucyl erucate.

Further inventively particularly preferred non-volatile non-silicone oils are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 alkanols such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®). Further non-volatile non-silicone oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with monohydric or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which may be esterified if desired, z. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57), PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E), and Glycereth-7 -diisononanoat. Further inventively particularly preferred non-volatile non-silicone oils are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1 ,

Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ - C ₆ alkanols.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the carrier oil which is liquid under normal conditions is selected from volatile silicone oils, nonvolatile silicone oils, volatile hydrocarbon oils, branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _{8- 30} -fatty acids, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of _monohydric or polyhydric C _8-22 alkanols, addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols, C ₈ -C ₂₂ Fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

It may be extraordinarily preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils in order to achieve optimum fine-tuning of the product properties, in particular the residue behavior, the feel of the skin or the release of the active ingredient.

Further oil component types which are particularly preferred according to the invention are isoparaffin oils, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane. Isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane are among the volatile oil components. Since they evaporate relatively quickly after application to the skin, the hydrophobic loading of the antiperspirant active ingredient particles is reduced. Such volatile oil components thus assist the release of the antiperspirant active.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, a proportion of the oil components of at least 80% by weight has a refractive index n _D of 1.39-1.51. It is particularly preferred if 5-40-50 wt .-%, most preferably 10-12-25-30 wt .-% of the oil components has a refractive index n _D of 1.43-1.51, preferably 1.44-1 , 49, more preferably 1.45-1.47-1.485, at 20 ° C (measured at λ = 589 nm).

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one oil in a total amount of 30-80 wt .-%, preferably 40-75 wt .-%, particularly preferably in a total amount of 50-73 wt .-%, most preferably in a total amount of 56-70% by weight, each based on the total weight of the composition.

The oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are distinguished by a content of at least one polysaccharide. Surprisingly, it has been found that the polysaccharide content accelerates the drying of the emulsion on the skin. Compared with a polysaccharide-free emulsion emulsions of the invention are perceived by the test persons as faster drying on the skin.

Polysaccharides which are suitable according to the invention are understood to mean both unmodified polysaccharides, such as, for example, xanthan or starch, and chemically modified polysaccharide derivatives, such as, for example, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, and physically modified polysaccharides, for example a starch pregelatinized by thermal treatment. Preferred polysaccharides according to the invention are selected from starches, in particular from corn, potatoes and wheat, their constituents such as amylose and amylopectin, starch hydrolysates and starch degradation products, such as maltodextrin, the physically or chemically modified starch derivatives, in particular the anionic starch derivatives Aluminiumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, Natriumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, Calciumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, Distärkephosphaten, Hydroxyethylstärkephosphaten , Hydroxypropyl starch phosphates, sodium carboxymethyl starches and sodium starch glycolate, cellulose, the chemically modified cellulose derivatives methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl methyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose. Polysaccharides which form gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, especially sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya gum, carrageenans, locust bean gum, linseed gums and agar-agar, may be used may also be included, but are less preferred. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are free of polysaccharide gums.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polysaccharide in a total amount of 0.01-1.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-0.5 and particularly preferably 0.09-0.2 wt. %, in each case based on the total weight of the emulsion, and is selected from anionic and nonionic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the anionic polysaccharide is selected from aluminum starch octenyl succinate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, calcium starch octenyl succinate, distarch phosphates, hydroxyethyl starch phosphates, hydroxypropyl starch phosphates, sodium carboxymethyl starches, sodium starch glycolate and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic polysaccharide is selected from starches, starch hydrolysates, cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylethylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose and mixtures thereof.

Further particularly preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one polysaccharide in a total amount of 0.01-1.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-0.5 and particularly preferably 0.09 -0.2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion is included. It was particularly surprising that a faster drying of the emulsion on the skin could be achieved even with relatively small amounts of polysaccharide.

The oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention preferably contain a minor amount of an oil or fat phase of 0.5-6.5 weight percent, based on the weight of the total emulsion. The low level of dispersed oil or fat phase results in an improved, non-greasy skin feel.

According to the invention, the oil or fat phase comprises in addition to the at least one oil component which is liquid at 20 ° C. and is selected from linear and branched saturated mono- or polyhydric C ₃ -C ₃₀ -alkanols which have been etherified with at least one propylene oxide unit per molecule, Propylene glycol monoesters of branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkanecarboxylic acids and branched saturated C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkanols, at least one perfume. In addition, even at 20 ° C, solid or pasty fat components may be included. By definition, the emulsifiers do not belong to the oil or fat phase. The 20 ° C liquid oil components selected from linear and branched saturated mono- or polyhydric C ₃ -C ₃₀ alkanols etherified with at least one propylene oxide unit per molecule preferably include propanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butanol , Butanediol, pentanol, capric alcohol, caprylic alcohol, caprylyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 , 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, or 20 propylene oxide units are etherified.

Preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil component i) is selected from adducts of at least 6 propylene oxide units per molecule of mono- or polyhydric C _3-30 alkanols, in particular butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

Particularly preferred inventive antiperspirant oil-in-water emulsions wherein the oil component i) is selected (from PPG-3 myristyl ether commercial product Witconol ^® APM), PPG-13 butyl ether, PPG-14 butyl ether (commercial product Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (commercial product Breox ^® 625), PPG-10 butanediol (commercial product Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® e commercial product), and mixtures thereof.

Further preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil component i) in a total amount of 0.1-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.3-3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5- 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion is included.

Further preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil component ii) is selected from propylene glycol monoesters of branched saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ -alkanecarboxylic acids.

Oil components ii) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoisopalmitate, propylene glycol monoisobehenate, propylene glycol monoisoarachinate, propylene glycol monoisomyristate, propylene glycol monoisocaprate, propylene glycol monoisocaprate and propylene glycol monoisocaprylate and mixtures thereof.

Further preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the oil component iii) is selected from branched saturated C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ -alkanols. Oil components iii) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isomyristyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, isoarachidyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, isocapryl alcohol, isocaprinyl alcohol, isocaprylyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

It has surprisingly been found that the storage stability of the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention can be further increased by the addition of at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 3-6. Such lipophilic emulsifiers normally stabilize water-in-oil emulsions.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 3-6 is selected, which is selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -alkanols containing 1-4 ethylene oxide Units per molecule are etherified with steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth, and beheneth each having 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule being preferred.

Most preferred are steareth-1, steareth-2, steareth-3, ceteth-1, ceteth-2, ceteth-3, myristeth-1, myristeth-2, laureth-1 beheneth-2, beheneth-3 and beheneth-4, in particular steareth-2.

Further oil-in-water emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 3-6 in a total amount of 1.8-3% by weight, preferably 2-2.8 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 2.4-2.6 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total emulsion is included.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the storage stability of the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention can be further increased by the addition of at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 12-18. Further inventively preferred compositions are characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 3-6 in a total amount of 1.8-3 wt .-%, based on the weight of the total emulsion, is contained is selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkanols etherified with 7-40 ethylene oxide units per molecule, with steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth each having 7-40 ethylene oxide units per molecule are preferred.

Particularly preferred nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range of 12-18 are selected from steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth each having 7-40 ethylene oxide units per molecule, especially steareth-15, steareth-20 , Steareth-21, arachideth-20, arachideth-21, beheneth-20, beheneth-21, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, ceteth-15 and myristeth-15.

Further preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 in a total amount of 1-2% by weight, preferably 1.2 to 1.8 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 1.5-1.7 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total emulsion contained.

Further compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain steareth-2 as nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 3 to 6 and at the same time as nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18 steareth-21. Such emulsions are characterized by a particularly favorable storage and temperature stability.

Further preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the weight ratio of nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range of 3-6 and nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value in the range of 12-18 from 0.9 to 3, preferably 1.3-1.9.

Further oil-in-water emulsions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that steareth-2, steareth-21 and PPG-15 stearyl ether are contained. Such emulsions are characterized by a particularly high storage and temperature stability and at the same time contribute to an improved, non-sticky skin feeling.

Exceptionally preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to steareth-2, steareth-21 and PPG-15-stearyl ether, aluminum starch octenyl succinate is contained as polysaccharide. This polysaccharide is available, for example, under the trade names Dry Flo and Dry Flo Plus from National Starch. Further oil-in-water emulsions which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, in addition to steareth-2, steareth-21 and PPG-15-stearyl ether, at least one distarch phosphate is contained. This polysaccharide is available, for example, under the trade name Maize PO 4 PH "B" from Agrana. Such emulsions are characterized by a particularly high storage and temperature stability, an outstanding, non-sticky skin feel and optimal drying properties on the skin.

The proportion of water in the composition according to the invention is preferably at least 60 wt .-%, preferably 65 to 90 wt .-%, particularly preferably 70-85 wt .-%, most preferably 75-80 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Further inventively preferred oil-in-water emulsions are characterized in that a total of at most 3 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total emulsion, of monovalent C ₁ -C ₃ alkanols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. The emulsions according to the invention can be destabilized under certain conditions by an addition of ethanol or isopropanol, in particular in higher amounts, for example 5 wt .-% and more, in their storage and / or temperature stability.

The oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention have been developed in particular for roll-on products, that is to say for application with a ball applicator or roll-on applicator. For optimum dispensing properties, the emulsion must not be too viscous or too viscous. Oil-in-water emulsions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized by a viscosity in the range of 1000-5000 mPas, preferably 1500-4000 mPas and particularly preferably 1700-2200 mPas. These viscosity data refer to measurements with a Brookfield viscometer, 1 day after preparation of the emulsion with spindle RV 4, at a shear rate (spindle speed) of 20 s ^-1 without helipath at an ambient temperature and a sample temperature of 20 ° C be performed.

wobei die Struktur (AA-1) folgendermaßen gekennzeichnet ist:
R¹–R⁶ = unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, die linear oder verzweigt sein kann und die substituiert sein kann mit OH-Gruppen oder Alkoxy-Gruppen mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen, oder eine Alkenylgruppe mit 2 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, die linear oder verzweigt sein kann und die substituiert sein kann mit OH-Gruppen oder Alkoxy-Gruppen mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen,
R⁷–R¹¹ = unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom, insbesondere ein Chloratom, oder eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, die linear oder verzweigt sein kann und die substituiert sein kann mit OH-Gruppen oder Alkoxy-Gruppen mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere mit einer Methoxygruppe,
m = 0 oder 1 ist,
n, 0, p = unabhängig voneinander ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 10 sein können, wobei mindestens einer der Werte n, 0, p ≠ 0 ist.In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the antiperspirant active ingredients, at least one deodorising aromatic alcohol of the structure (AA-1),

wherein the structure (AA-1) is characterized as follows:
R ¹ -R ⁶ = independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and which may be substituted by OH groups or alkoxy groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and which may be substituted by OH groups or alkoxy groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
R ⁷ -R ¹¹ = independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, in particular a chlorine atom, or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and which may be substituted by OH groups or alkoxy groups having 1 to 5 Carbon atoms, in particular with a methoxy group,
m = 0 or 1,
n, 0, p = can independently be integers from 0 to 10, wherein at least one of the values n, 0, p ≠ 0.

Deodorizing aromatic alcohols of structure (AA-1) preferred according to the invention are selected from phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol (3-phenoxy-propan-2-ol), anisalcohol, 2-methyl-5-phenyl-pentan-1-ol, 1,1 -Dimethyl-3-phenyl-propan-1-ol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethane-1-ol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 4-phenylbutan-1-ol, 5-phenylpentan-1-ol, 2-benzylheptane 1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3- (3'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3-phenylpropane-1 ol, 2-ethyl-3- (3'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (2'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propane -1-ol, 3- (4'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3- (2 '-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3- (4'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3', 4'-dimethylphenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-Ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dimethoxyphenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-allyl-3-phenyl-propan-1-ol and 2-n-pentyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol.

Particularly preferred alcohols of structure AA-1 are those in which m = 0. Further particularly preferred alcohols of the structure AA-1 are those in which at least one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ or R ⁶ ≠ H.

Further particularly preferred alcohols of the structure AA-1 are those in which m = 0 and at least one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ or R ⁶ ≠ H.

Examples of the C ₁ - to C ₅ -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds used according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, amyl, isoamyl. Ethyl, methyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, amyl, isoamyl are preferred alkyl radicals, particularly preferred are methyl and n-pentyl. C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkoxy radicals preferred according to the invention are for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group. Furthermore, as preferred examples of a C ₁ - to C ₅ -hydroxyalkyl group, a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group may be mentioned. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group.

According to preferred examples of halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred deodorant aromatic alcohols of structure (AA-1) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from anisalcohol, 2-methyl-5-phenyl-pentan-1-ol, 1,1-dimethyl-3-phenyl-propan-1-ol, 3 -Phenylpropan-1-ol, 4-phenylbutan-1-ol, 5-phenylpentan-1-ol, 2-benzylheptan-1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol and 2-n-pentyl -3-phenyl-1-ol. Extraordinary preference is given to 2-benzylheptan-1-ol.

wobei die Struktur (AA-1) folgendermaßen gekennzeichnet ist:
R¹–R⁶ = unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, die linear oder verzweigt sein kann und die substituiert sein kann mit OH-Gruppen oder Alkoxy-Gruppen mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen, oder eine Alkenylgruppe mit 2 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, die linear oder verzweigt sein kann und die substituiert sein kann mit OH-Gruppen oder Alkoxy-Gruppen mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen,
R⁷–R¹¹ = unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Halogenatom, insbesondere ein Chloratom, oder eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen, die linear oder verzweigt sein kann und die substituiert sein kann mit OH-Gruppen oder Alkoxy-Gruppen mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere mit einer Methoxygruppe,
m = 0 oder 1 ist,
n, 0, p = unabhängig voneinander ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 10 sein können, wobei mindestens einer der Werte n, 0, p ≠ 0 ist.In summary, compositions according to the invention which contain at least one deodorising aromatic alcohol of the structure (AA-1) are preferred,

wherein the structure (AA-1) is characterized as follows:
R ¹ -R ⁶ = independently a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and which may be substituted by OH groups or alkoxy groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or an alkenyl group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and which may be substituted by OH groups or alkoxy groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms,
R ⁷ -R ¹¹ = independently of one another a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, in particular a chlorine atom, or an alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched and which may be substituted by OH groups or alkoxy groups having 1 to 5 Carbon atoms, in particular with a methoxy group,
m = 0 or 1,
n, 0, p = can independently be integers from 0 to 10, wherein at least one of the values n, 0, p ≠ 0.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one further deodorant active ingredient in addition to the at least one deodorant double salt of the alum type b). Preferred such deodorant active ingredients are selected from mineral deodorant active ingredients, odor absorbers, inorganic moisture absorbers, deodorizing ion exchangers, germ-inhibiting substances, prebiotic active substances and enzyme inhibitors and, particularly preferred, combinations of said deodorant active ingredients.

The mineral deodorant or moisture absorbents preferably include odor-absorbing and / or moisture-absorbing silicates such. As zeolites, hydrated sodium aluminum silicates, magnesium aluminum silicates, kaolin, illite, smectite clays, clay, green clay, mica, talc, unmodified bentonites, unmodified hectorites and montmorillonites, but also antibacterial copper salts and zinc salts, especially zinc chlorides and zinc sulfates.

Unmodified silicates serve as odor absorbers or moisture absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention. The silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention include, above all, unmodified phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, illite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum.

Such mineral deodorant agents or moisture absorbents are preferably in a total amount of 0.1-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.7-2 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

Further advantageous odor absorbers are, for example, zinc ricinoleate, cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll.

According to the invention, germ-inhibiting or antimicrobial active ingredients are understood as meaning those active substances which reduce the number of skin germs participating in the formation of the odor or inhibit their growth. These organisms include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci.

Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinyl undecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic esters of mono-, di- and triglycerin (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil).

Further preferred deodorant active substances are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs that lead to a include healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active substances, which are in the publications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 are disclosed as being prebiotic effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.

The enzyme inhibitors include substances which inhibit the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, cystathionine-beta-lyase esterases, lipases and / or lipoxygenase, e.g. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one additional deodorant active ingredient is selected from arylsulfatase inhibitors, β-glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, cystathionine-beta-lyase inhibitors, esterase inhibitors, lipase inhibitors and lipoxigenase inhibitors. Inhibitors, α-Monoalkylglycerinethern with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, in particular α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, prebiotic components, Trialkylcitronensäureestern, in particular triethyl citrate, active compounds, the number of reduce skin odors from the group of staphylococci, corynebacteria, anaerococci, micrococci and peptinophiles or inhibit their growth, zinc compounds, in particular zinc phenolsulfonate and zinc ricinoleate, organohalogen compounds, in particular triclosan, chlorhexidine, chlorhexidine gluconate and the like and benzalkonium halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetylpyridinium chloride, odor absorbers, in particular silicates and zeolites, sodium bicarbonate, lantibiotics, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one additional deodorant active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.2-7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3-5 wt. % and most preferably 0.4-1.0% by weight, more preferably 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8 and 0.9% by weight, based on the total weight of the active substance in the total composition.

Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that at least one further mineral deodorant active ingredient or sweat absorbent or moisture absorbent is contained, with particularly preferred compositions containing the additional mineral oil (s) Deodorantwirkstoff / e or sweat absorbents or moisture absorbents / ien in a total amount of 0.1-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.7-2 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that 0.01-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition , a mineral mixture obtained from a natural mineral water, a thermal water or a natural healing water is included. The term "natural mineral water" is based on the definition of the German mineral and table water ordinance (MinTafWV, § 2). The mineral mixture is the solid residue of said waters. Mineral mixtures particularly preferred according to the invention are derived from the thermal waters of La Toja (Spain), Bad Blumau, Bad Radkersburg, Aachen, Wiesbaden (all Germany), Carlsbad (Czech Republic), La Bourboule, Enghien-les-bains, Allevard-les-bains, Digne , Nyrac-les-bains, Ions le Saunier, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort, les Fumades, Saint Christau, Uriage-les-bains, La Roche-Posay (all France) or the natural mineral or medicinal waters of Evian, Volvic, Vichy, Avène , Vittel (all France), Gerolstein or Fachingen (Germany).

Antioxidant substances can counteract the oxidative decomposition of the welding components and in this way inhibit odor development. Preferred antioxidants are imidazole and imidazole derivatives (eg urocaninic acid), peptides, such as e.g. B. D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg., Anserin), carotenoids, carotenes (eg, α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thio compounds (eg thioglycerol, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl , Propyl, amyl, butyl, lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids , Nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol / kg to μmol / kg), furthermore metal chelators ( for example, α-hydroxy fatty acids, EDTA, EGTA, lactoferrin), H umic acids, bile acids, bile extracts, catechins, bilirubin, biliverdin and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg. Gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinone and its derivatives (eg arbutin), ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and its derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphates, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherols and their derivatives (for example tocopheryl acetate, linoleate, oleate and succinate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50, tocopherolan), vitamin A and derivatives (e.g., vitamin A palmitate), the benzylic resin coniferyl benzoate, rutin, rutinic acid, and their derivatives, disodium rubinyldisulfate, cinnamic acid and its derivatives, kojic acid, chitosan glycolate and salicylate, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid re and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, selenium and selenium derivatives (eg. Selenium methionine), stilbenes and stilbene derivatives (eg, stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide). Suitable derivatives (salts, esters, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) and mixtures of these active substances or anhydrous plant extracts containing these antioxidants can be used according to the invention.

Preferred lipophilic, oil-soluble antioxidants from this group are tocopherol and its derivatives, in particular tocopheryl acetate, and carotenoids, as well as butylhydroxytoluene and butylhydroxyanisole.

The total amount of antioxidants in preferred compositions according to the invention is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight and in particular 0.1-2% by weight, based on the total composition.

Complex-forming substances can also support the deodorizing effect by stably complexing the catalytically active heavy metal ions (eg iron or copper). Suitable complexing agents are selected from the aforementioned complexing agents.

Further preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from monomers, oligomers or polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable salts of these substances is contained. Many of these active ingredients are used as anti-aging active ingredients and / or have a favorable effect on the moisture balance of the skin and / or have a skin-calming effect. The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from alanine, arginine, Asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, Sarcosine, series, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate. The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the amino acids, in particular the preferred amino acids mentioned, are derivatized at the amino group is preferably selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl -, nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift PDHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred amino acids or amino acid derivatives are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Particularly preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be acylated and / or esterified. Numerous of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors, repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), the synthesis of collagen in dermal Fibroblasts induced to release. Such amino acid oligomers are preferably used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and is available as such from ProCyte Corporation. Furthermore, analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used, wherein a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by suitable other amino acids. For the substitution of Gly, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable according to the invention. The inventively preferred amino acids that can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom that is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Vzal, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. under the name Eyeliss of Sederma is available, but also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma represents. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapeptides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute for Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids which can replace Gln include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg include a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7) Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g. B. Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, e.g. For example, the commercial products Phytokine from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab. Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined. Also possible is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particular preference is given to cationic protein hydrolyzates whose protein content on which they are based has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives used in the present invention, some of those mentioned under the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (Seventh Edition, 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Washington, DC) and U.S. Patent Nos. 4,170,199 and 4,200,299 are known Commercially available products listed include: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Exceptionally preferred are the plant-based cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation. The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5'-3 ') bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one of the raw materials Photosome ^™ or Ultrasome ^™ in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and particularly preferably 1.0 -4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion.

Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances in a total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances are in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, pulverulent Substrates such as silica gel, in particular Aerosil types, talc, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, microsponges, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene Copolymers which may be crosslinked include polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

Cosmetic emulsions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, in a total amount of 0.000001-5 wt%, preferably 0.00001-2 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-1 wt%, and most preferably 0.005-0.5 wt%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise as cosmetic active ingredient at least one DNA oligonucleotide or one RNA oligonucleotide. These components are associated with positive effects especially in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging treatment.

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine). 5'-triphosphate).

An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide. Preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or RNA oligonucleotide in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-1.0 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, based on the total emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one natural betaine compound. These components have positive effects especially in skin moisturizing treatment. Naturally preferred natural betaine compounds according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOR-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl. Preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances. These components are associated with positive effects especially in the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging treatment, but also in skin-moisturizing, whitening, sebum-regulating and soothing treatment.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate into consideration. The emulsions according to the invention preferably contain the at least one vitamin A component in a total amount of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total emulsion.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichnung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichnung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin 63. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (I) eingesetzt werden.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Preferably, riboflavin or its derivatives are used in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin 63. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are listed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).

(I)

(I)

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder ”Hautvitamin” bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0, 5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The vitamin C group includes vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives, in particular the esters of ascorbic acid with organic and inorganic acids and their salts, and the acetals with glucose or other sugars, in particular ascorbyl glucoside.

Vitamin C and / or at least one of its derivatives is preferably used in a total amount of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition. The use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred. The use of at least one member of the vitamin C Group in combination with tocopherols and / or other members of the vitamin E group may also be preferred.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in a total amount of 0.05-1% by weight based on the entire composition.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin 67 (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, and tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the present invention agents.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances in a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.25 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. These components are associated with positive effects especially in the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging treatment, but also in the skin moisturizing or moisturizing, whitening, sebum-regulating and anti-acne treatment. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucic acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, gularic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are preferably selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid and / or at least one derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5% by weight. 5 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract. These components are associated with positive effects especially in the anti-wrinkle and anti-aging treatment, but also in the skin moisturizing or moisturizing, whitening, sebum-regulating and anti-acne treatment.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7 rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4 ', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside), diosmin (3', 4 ', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire emulsion is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids. These components are associated with positive effects especially in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging treatment. For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from soybean, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein. Isolates SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic active ingredient is at least one isoflavonoid and / or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight. and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire composition is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one polyphenol and / or at least one polyphenol-rich plant extract. These components are associated with positive effects especially in anti-wrinkle, anti-aging and sebum-regulating skin treatment.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, that is, the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, ie Derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and also the tanning agents resulting therefrom by self-condensation. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance, but as extracts of tanning-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the cores of the Chardonnay grape, available from Croda.

Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one polyphenol and / or at least one polyphenol-rich plant extract in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, in each case based on the Polyphenolaktivsubstanz in the entire emulsion.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances. These components are associated with positive effects especially in anti-wrinkle and anti-aging treatment. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain silymarin as cosmetic active ingredient. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was previously regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans. These components are associated with positive effects, especially in skin-calming treatment.

Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that silymarin is used in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight. % and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain ectoin as cosmetic active ingredient. This component is associated with positive effects, especially in skin moisturizing or moisturizing treatment. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. Particularly preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that ectoine in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one repellent, that is to say an insect repellent.

Of the active ingredients commonly used today in insect repellents, about 15, N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (DEET) is referred to as the best all-round repellent. It acts defensively against mosquitoes, brakes, sandflies, ticks, lunatics, mites, fleas and bedbugs, with the duration of action - as with all repellent agents - different lengths compared to the different species. Commercially available DEET preparations, for example, are effective against mosquitoes for about 6 to 8 hours, but only for about 2 to 4 hours against ticks. Another common repellent active is ethyl 3- (N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (also referred to as repellent 3535). Repellent 3535 is effective against mosquitoes (Aedes aegypti, Anopheles albimanus), tsetse flies (Glossinae) and brakes (Tabanidae). Also common is dimethyl phthalate (Palatinol M, DMP), which is effective against mosquitoes (especially Aedes and Anopheles species), lice, ticks and mites, but is mainly used in combination with other repellent agents.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are substances which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters preferred according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or unsymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarboxylic acid esters and -carbonsaureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. It may optionally be particularly preferred if the benzoxazole derivatives in pigmentary, ie undissolved form - for example in particle sizes of. 10 nm to 300 nm - present. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4`- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- 4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester, to polymers ge bound UV filters, z. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX) , Triazine derivatives, such as. For example, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA), dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^® available), 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl -1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1,3,5-triazin-2- yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6 - (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazole -2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. : 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzo triazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] -phenol (CAS-No .: No. 155633-54-8) having the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} - 6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2- hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methyl-propenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[ 4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1 , 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the above components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise , and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bionylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4`methoxyphenylpropan-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B filters Thus, in another preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B- Filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio correspondingly between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). The hydrophobic coating agents are especially silicones and especially special. Trialkoxyoctylsilane or simethicone in question. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-10% by weight. % and most preferably 2 or 3-7 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 2-4 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one self-tanning active ingredient. According to the invention preferred self-tanning active ingredients are selected from dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and mixtures of these components, in particular mixtures of dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose. Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active compound in a total amount of 0.01-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight, particularly preferably 1.0-5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 2.0-4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise as cosmetic active ingredient at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂₀ -carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract and licorice extract, and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The invention extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-lightening active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention contain as cosmetic active ingredient at least one skin-soothing active ingredient. Skin-soothing active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example obtainable under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. B. sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania Spinosa oil with the INCI name "Blocked grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil", as z , B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, as described for. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) are available from Solabia, Alginhydrolysaten as z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides Al, are available from Codif, extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as described for. B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as described, for. B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE of the company Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as described, for , B. under the trade name phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) are available from the company Vincience, aminodicarboxylic acids having a carbon chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic, aminosuccinic (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

Further preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one skin-soothing active ingredient in a total amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total emulsion.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention as cosmetic active ingredient contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient. According to the invention preferred moisturizing agents are selected from deoxy sugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides which comprise at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) from Solabia and Glycofilm ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, e.g. the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, furthermore urea, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea (eg available under the trade name Hydrovance), betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ), glycosaminoglycans, particularly preferred Hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin-4-sulphate and chondroitin-6-sulphate, as well as any mixtures of these substances.

Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, based in each case on entire emulsion, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention comprise as cosmetic active ingredient at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient. Sebumregulierende agents preferred according to invention are selected from Azelaic acid, Azelainsäurederivaten, in particular the Azelainsäurederivat Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, which is for example available as commercial product Azeloglicina of Sinerga, sebacic acid, 10-Hydroxydecansäure, 1,10-Decandiol, mixtures of Sebacinsäure, 10-Hydroxydecansäure and 1 , 10-decanediol, as are available, for example, as the commercial product Acnacidol PG from Vincience, glycyrrhizin, also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic glycoside, which is 2-beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and their salts, tannic acid (tannic acid) and their salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as are available, for example, as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF from Biesterfeld, further from extracts of Spiraea ulmaria how they z. As in the product Seboregul the company Silab are included, further water and oil soluble extracts of Hamamelis, burdock and nettles, Zimtbaumextract (z. B. Sepicontrol ^® A5 by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract (z. B. Laricyl ^® from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques), yeast protein hydrolysates, such as. B. in the commercial products of the Asebiol ^® series of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques are available, in particular Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, pyridoxines, niacinamides, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT (Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Disodium Azelate, Biotin) and PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, as described, for example, in US Pat. B. in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" of Cosmetochem is included (INCI: Aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol).

Preferred emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight and most preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the entire emulsion according to the invention, included.

Further oil-in-water emulsions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oil or fat phase comprises at least one perfume.

As perfume component perfumes, perfume oils or perfume oil ingredients can be used. Perfume oils or fragrances can according to the invention individual fragrance compounds, eg. As the synthetic products of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, benzylsalicylate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate and jasmecyclate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C-atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. The alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes such as limonene and pinene. Preferably, however, mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance.

Such perfume oils may also contain natural fragrance mixtures as are available from vegetable sources, e.g. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are Muskateller sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and laudanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during the Vaporizing, whereby the odor impressions are subdivided into "top note", "middle note or body" as well as "base note" (end note or dry out). Since odor perception is also largely based on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance does not consist solely of volatile compounds, while the base note consists for the most part of less volatile, ie adherent fragrances. For example, in the composition of perfumes, more volatile fragrances can be bound to certain fixatives, preventing them from evaporating too quickly. In the subsequent classification of the fragrances in "more volatile" or "adherent" fragrances so nothing about the olfactory impression and whether the corresponding fragrance is perceived as a head or middle note, nothing said. Adhesive-resistant fragrances which can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil, Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine oil, copaia balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil, Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja Oil, Thyme oil, Ve rape oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, lemon oil, lemon oil and cypress oil.

But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol , Bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol , Isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor, karvakrol, karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthyl ketone, methyl-n nonylacetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, Muskon, β-Na phthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, isoamyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, Santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cimat alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

The more volatile fragrances include in particular the lower-boiling fragrances of natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butadione, citral, citronellal, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde and terpinyl acetate.

Particularly preferred cosmetic emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one perfume component in a total amount of 0.00001 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-1.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition.

Further preferred oil-in-water emulsions according to the invention are characterized in that they are packaged in a container with ball applicator or roll-on applicator.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention, for the antiperspirant treatment of the skin, in particular the armpit skin and / or the skin of the feet.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention for the antiperspirant treatment of the skin, in particular the armpit skin and / or the skin of the feet, with a non-greasy feel on the skin.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention for antiperspirant treatment of the skin, especially the armpit skin and / or the skin of the feet, with accelerated drying.

Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for antiperspirant treatment of the skin, in particular the underarm skin and / or the skin of the feet, which is characterized in that an inventive oil-in-water emulsion in an effective amount to the Skin is applied.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an oil-in-water emulsion of the invention for deodorizing, anti-wrinkle, Antiageing, anti-pimple, anti-acne, sebum-regulating, skin moisturizing or moisturizing , Sunscreen, insect repellent, self-tanning or lightening treatment of the skin.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an oil-in-water emulsion of the invention for deodorizing, anti-wrinkle, Antiageing, anti-pimple, anti-acne, sebum-regulating, skin moisturizing or moisturizing , Sunscreen, insect repellent, self-tanning or lightening skin treatment with non-greasy skin feel.

Another object of the present invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an oil-in-water emulsion of the invention for deodorizing, anti-wrinkle, Antiageing, anti-pimple, anti-acne, sebum-regulating, skin moisturizing or moisturizing , Sunscreen, insect repellent, self-tanning or lightening skin treatment with accelerated drying.

Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method of deodorizing, anti-wrinkle, Antiageing, anti-pimple, anti-acne, sebum-regulating, skin moisturizing, sunscreen, insect repellent, self-tanning or lightening Skin treatment, characterized in that an oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention is applied to the skin in an effective amount.

Examples:

Preparation of emulsions according to the invention

The emulsions according to the invention can be prepared by various preparation methods. Production methods which are preferred according to the invention are shown below.

Method 1

About one third of the total amount of water (phase 1) and the oil component (s) and the optional emulsifier (s) and any other oil or fat components (phase 2) are separated from each other to a temperature between 70-80 ° C heated. Then phase 1 is slowly added to phase 2 and emulsified for 45-60 minutes at low speed or homogenized on a small scale. Subsequently, the batch is cooled to 40-45 ° C. Subsequently, further ingredients and 15-20 wt .-% of the total amount of water is heated to 40-45 ° C, for. Approach given and homogenized. Subsequently, the remaining portion of the total amount of water together with the polysaccharide and optionally temperature-sensitive agents and additives, such as preservatives, added to the batch, homogenized at high speed and cooled to 25 ° C with slow stirring.

The antiperspirant active ingredients are not sensitive to temperature under the mentioned production conditions and can be incorporated at 40-50 ° C.

The duration of the individual homogenization steps is 0.5-10 minutes, preferably 1-8 minutes, more preferably 2-5 minutes.

Method 2

About one third of the total amount of water (phase 1) and the oil component (s) and the optional emulsifier (s) and any other oil or fat components (phase 2) are separated from each other to a temperature between 70-80 ° C heated. Then Phase 2 slowly becomes Phase 1 and everything emulsified for 45-60 minutes at low speed or homogenized on a small scale. Subsequently, the batch is cooled to 40-45 ° C. Subsequently, further ingredients and 15-20 wt .-% of the total amount of water is heated to 40-45 ° C, added to the mixture and homogenized. Subsequently, the remaining portion of the total amount of water together with the polysaccharide and optionally temperature-sensitive agents and additives, such as preservatives, added to the batch, homogenized at high speed and cooled to 25 ° C with slow stirring.

The antiperspirant active ingredients are not sensitive to temperature under the mentioned production conditions and can be incorporated at 40-50 ° C.

The duration of the individual homogenization steps is 0.5-10 minutes, preferably 1-8 minutes, more preferably 2-5 minutes.

Method 3

About 20% of the total amount of water are heated together with the / the oil component (s) and the optionally containing emulsifiers to a temperature between 70-80 ° C and emulsified at low speed or homogenized on a small scale.

Subsequently, another 10-20% of the total amount of water is heated to 70-80 ° C, added, homogenized everything at high speed and then emulsified for 0.5-2 hours. Subsequently, another 10-20% of the total amount of water is heated to 70-80 ° C, added and homogenized everything at high speed. The batch is cooled to 40-50 ° C. A portion of other ingredients - if these raw materials are stable at this temperature - with another 10-20% of the total amount of water heated to 40-50 ° C, added to the approach and homogenized everything at high speed. Subsequently, the remaining portion of other ingredients, if these raw materials are stable at this temperature, heated with another 10-20% of the total amount of water to 40-50 ° C, added to the mixture and homogenized everything at high speed.

Then the batch is cooled to 30-35 ° C. Subsequently, the remaining portion of the total amount of water is added, homogenized at high speed and slowly cooled with stirring.

If further ingredients are sensitive to temperature, they are first added together with the polysaccharide and optionally further (temperature-sensitive) additives, for example preservatives, to the batch, everything is homogenized at high speed and cooled to 25 ° C. with slow stirring.

The antiperspirant active ingredients are not sensitive to temperature under the mentioned production conditions and can be incorporated in all processes at 40-50 ° C.

The duration of the individual homogenization steps in all processes is 0.5-10 minutes, preferably 1-8 minutes, more preferably 2-5 minutes.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without, however, limiting it to it. All data in% by weight, unless stated otherwise. Example 1 Antiperspirant Emulsions (O / W) According to the Invention INGREDIENTS (EU-INCI) A B C ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE 13.0 13.0 13.0 POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SULFATE KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O 1.5 1.5 1.5 TALC 1.0 - - BENTONITES - 1.0 - hectorites - - 5.0 STEARETH-2 2.5 2.5 2.5 STEARETH-21 1.5 1.5 1.5 PERFUME 1.1 1.1 1.1 PPG-15 STEARYLETHER 0.5 0.5 0.5 BISABOLOL 0.1 0.1 0.1 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER DIMETHYL SILANE 0.1 0.1 0.1 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 AQUA ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The emulsion according to Example 1 had a viscosity of 1800 mPas on the first day after the preparation, measured with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 s-1, without helipath, at 20 ° C. ambient temperature and 20 ° C. sample temperature. Example 2 Antiperspirant Emulsion (O / W) According to the Invention INGREDIENTS (EU-INCI) A B C ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE 26.0 26.0 26.0 POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SULFATE KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O 1.0 1.0 1.0 TALC 1.0 - - BENTONITES - 10 - hectorites - - 20 STEARETH-2 2.4 2.4 2.4 STEARETH-21 1.5 1.5 1.5 PERFUME 1.0 1.0 1.0 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER 0.5 0.5 0.5 ALLANTOIN 0.1 0.1 0.1 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 ALOE BARBADENSIS 0.1 0.1 0.1 AQUA ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The emulsion according to example 2 had a viscosity of 2000 mPas on the first day after preparation, measured with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 s-1, without helipath, at 20 ° C. ambient temperature and 20 ° C. sample temperature. Example 3 Antiperspirant Emulsion (O / W) According to the Invention INGREDIENTS (EU) A B C ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY 23.7 23.7 23.7 POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SULFATE KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O 2.0 2.0 2.0 TALC 2.0 - - BENTONITES - 0.5 - hectorites - - 3.0 STEARETH-2 2.4 2.4 2.4 STEARETH-21 1.6 1.6 1.6 PERFUME 1.2 1.2 1.2 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER 0.5 0.5 0.5 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 AQUA ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The emulsion according to example 3 had a viscosity of 2200 mPas on the first day after preparation, measured with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 s-1, without helipath, at 20 ° C. ambient temperature and 20 ° C. sample temperature. Example 4 Antiperspirant Emulsion (O / W) According to the Invention INGREDIENTS (EU) A B C ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE 20.0 20.0 20.0 POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SULFATE KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O 2.0 2.0 2.0 TALC 0.5 - - BENTONITES - 15 - hectorites - - 1.0 STEARETH-2 2.3 2.3 2.3 STEARETH-21 1.5 1.5 1.5 PERFUME 1.0 1.0 1.0 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER 0.5 0.5 0.5 ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 ALLANTOIN 0.1 0.1 0.1 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 AQUA ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The emulsion according to example 4 had a viscosity of 1700 mPas on the first day after the preparation, measured with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 s-1, without helipath, at 20 ° C. ambient temperature and 20 ° C. sample temperature. Example 5 Antiperspirant Emulsion (O / W) According to the Invention INGREDIENTS (EU) A B C ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE 20.0 20.0 20.0 POTASSIUM ALUMINUM SULFATE KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O 2.0 2.0 2.0 TALC 1.0 - - BENTONITES - 1 0 - hectorites - - 5.0 STEARETH-2 2.3 2.3 2.3 STEARETH-21 1.5 1.5 1.5 PERFUME 1.0 1.0 1.0 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER 0.5 0.5 0.5 DISTARCH PHOSPHATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 ALLANTOIN 0.1 0.1 0.1 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 AQUA ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The emulsion according to Example 5 had a viscosity of 1800 mPas on the first day after preparation, measured with a Brookfield viscometer, spindle RV 4, 20 s-1, without helipath, at 20 ° C. ambient temperature and 20 ° C. sample temperature.

The emulsions according to Examples 1-5 were each filled into a bottle with a roll applicator and were ready for sale.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

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Claims (10)

Hydrous emulsion containing, based on its weight a. at least one antiperspirant active selected from aluminum chlorhydroxides, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates, and mixtures thereof, b. at least one alum-type double salt having the general formula M ^I M ^III (SO ₄ ) ₂ .xH ₂ O, where M ^{I is} a monovalent cation selected from potassium, sodium, rubidium, cesium and ammonium ions, M ^{III represents} a trivalent cation selected from aluminum, gallium, indium, scandium, titanium and vanadium ions, and x represents a rational number in the range of 0 to 12, inclusive 0; c. 0.0005-1% by weight, of at least one silicon oxide-containing compound selected from hydrophilic silicas and / or hydrophobically modified silicas and / or phyllosilicates, d. at least one polysaccharide, wherein the composition is made up as a cream, gel, solution or impregnated on a substrate. A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the double salt of the alum type b) is selected from KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ , KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 1H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 2H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 3H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 4H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 5H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 6H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ · 7H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .8H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .9H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .10H ₂ O, KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .11H ₂ O and KAl ( SO ₄ ) ₂ · 12H ₂ O, as well as mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the aqueous emulsion comprises at least one cosmetic oil. A composition according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that the at least one polysaccharide in a total amount of 0.01-1.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-0.5 and particularly preferably 0.09-0, 2 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the emulsion, is contained and is selected from anionic and nonionic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof. A composition according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that the anionic polysaccharide is selected from aluminum starch octenyl succinate, sodium starch octenyl succinate, calcium starch octenyl succinate, distarch phosphates, hydroxyethyl starch phosphates, hydroxypropyl starch phosphates, sodium carboxymethyl starches, sodium starch glycolate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, characterized in that the nonionic polysaccharide is chosen from starches, starch hydrolysates, cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylethylcellulose, hydroxyethylmethylcellulose and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, characterized in that it contains at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range 3-6 selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ Alkanols etherified with 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule, with steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth, arachideth and beheneth each having 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule being preferred. Composition according to Claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7, characterized in that at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 3-6 in a total amount of 1.8-3% by weight, based on the weight of the total emulsion selected from linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkanols etherified with 7-40 ethylene oxide units per molecule, with steareth, ceteth, myristeth, laureth, trideceth , Arachideth and beheneth each having 7-40 ethylene oxide units per molecule are preferred. A composition according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8, characterized in that as nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 3-6 steareth-2 and simultaneously as a nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 12-18 steareth-21 is included. A composition according to claim 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or 9, characterized in that at least one further mineral deodorant active or sweat-absorbent or moisture-absorbent in a total amount of 0.1-5 wt .-%, preferably 0 , 5-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.7-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.