DE19642090A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological gels based on microemulsions - Google Patents

Abstract

Microemulsion gels a) based on water in oil type microemulsions, comprising an oil phase which is essentially composed of not easily volatile components, an aqueous phase containing one or more polyethoxylated W/O emulsifiers and/ or one or more polyproxylated W/O emulsifiers and/or one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W/O emulsifiers and/or one or more monoesters, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W/O emulsifiers and/or one or more monoethers, diethers, polyethers of polyols as W/O emulsifiers and /or one or more dimethicone copolyols as W/0 emulsifiers and/or one or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W/O emulsifiers and/or one or more sorbitan esters as W/O emulsifiers and/or one or more methyl glucose esters as W/O emulsifiers, and also comprising if desired one or more O/W emulsifiers, obtained in such a way that a mixture of basic components comprising an aqueous phase, an oil phase, one or more inventive emulsifiers is produced, being the HLB value of the emulsifier or emulsifier combination being located between 2 and 14.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological gels on the basis of microemulsions, in particular those gels for cosmetic and dermatological purposes preparations. As a particular embodiment, the present invention relates cosmeti or dermatological gels based on microemulsions of the water-in-oil type, Process for their preparation and their use for cosmetic and medical Purposes.

Under cosmetic skin care is to be understood in the first place that the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganis against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, Electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, it can lead to increased absorption of toxic or allergenic Substances or infestation of microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic Skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also the fat and what caused by daily washing to balance the skin's loss of energy. This is especially important when the natural Re generational wealth is insufficient. In addition, skin care products to the environment Protect rivers, especially from sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.

Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more Me medicines in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, the clean sub divorce between cosmetic and medical use and Products referred to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).  

Usual, and in recent times increasingly widespread cosmetic and the Matological preparation forms are gels.

In the technical sense are understood by gels: Relatively dimensionally stable, slightly ver Formable disperse systems of at least two components, which are usually made a - usually solid - colloid-divided substance from long-chain molecular groupings (eg. Gelatin, silicic acid, polysaccharides) as a scaffold former and a liquid dispersion medium (eg water). The colloidally divided material is often called thickening or Gelling agent referred. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, wherein a individual colloidal particles interact more with one another via electrostatic interaction or less firmly linked. The dispersant, which is the network is characterized by electrostatic affinity to the gelling agent, d. h., a vorwie gend polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar Dispersing agent (especially: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar gelling with gelled preferably nonpolar dispersants.

Strong electrostatic interactions, for example in hydrogen bonds bonds between gelling agent and dispersant, but also between Dispersionsmit Telmolekülen are realized with each other, too strong networking can also Dis lead. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (besides at For example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and it certainly has solid consistency Zen. The water content is in ice-like structural elements, so that gels therefore its name origin [from lat. "gelatum" = "Frozen" over the alchemical expression "gelatina" (16th century) for nhdt. "Gelatin"] are quite fair.

In cosmetic and pharmaceutical galenics are also lipogels and oleo gels (from waxes, fats and fatty oils) and carbogels (from paraffin or petrola tum). In practice, one distinguishes between oleogels, which are practically anhydrous hydrogel, which are virtually fat-free and oil / water gels, which ultimately on O / W or W / O emulsions are based, in which additionally features of a gel structure are realized. Mostly gels are transparent. In the cosmetic or phar Galenic gels are usually characterized by semi-solid, often flowable Consistency.  

In simple emulsions, finely dispersed droplets of the second phase enclosed by an emulsifier shell (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) are present in one phase. The droplet diameters of the usual emulsions are in the range of about 1 .mu.m to about 50 .mu.m. Such "macroemulsions" are, without further coloring additives, milky white colored and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions" whose droplet diameters are in the range of about 10 ^-1 microns to about 1 micron, are again bluish white-colored and opaque, without coloring to rates.

Micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters less than about 10 ^-2 microns, is reserved to appear clear and transparent.

The droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions dage gene is in the range of about 10 ^-2 microns to about 10 ^-1 microns. Such microemulsions are usually of low viscosity.

Furthermore, so-called surfactant gels are common preparations of the prior art. This refers to systems that, in addition to water, have a high concentration of emulsifier typically more than about 25% by weight, based on the total composition mensetzung. Solubilized in these Tensidgele, technically also "surfactant gels" called, oil components, microemulsion gels are obtained, which are also called "ringing By addition of nonionic emulsifiers, for example Alkylpolyglycosides, cosmetically elegant microemulsion gels can be obtained. Also Here the high content of emulsifiers is disadvantageous.

Advantage of microemulsion gels is that in the disperse phase drugs finely dispersed before can lie. Another advantage is that they spray because of their low viscosity can be bar. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, ent speaking products by high cosmetic elegance.

It is known per se, the droplets of a low-viscosity, especially thin liquid To link microemulsion with cross-linking substances to this Way to get the three-dimensional network of a gel.

In Nachr. Chem. Techn. Lab. 43 (1995) No. 1, p. 9 et seq. Are used for crosslinking micro Emulsion droplets described chain-shaped, hydrophilic molecules, which at the two  Chain ends each have a hydrophobic residue. Those hydrophobic residues dive into Microemulsion droplets, wherein the hydrophilic chain regions in the continuous Water phase present. In the strict sense, it is probably not necessary that the hydrophobic "Dipping" leftovers. It may also be sufficient in individual cases, if by hydro phobe interaction the hydrophobic residues with the surface of the microemulsions contact droplets and stick more or less strongly to this.

As crosslinkers a.a.O. Polyoxyethylene glycols with oleyl groups as the hydrophobic end groups indicated.

A disadvantage of microemulsions, and thus of the microemulsion gels of the prior art The technique is that always a high content of one or more emulsifiers turned must be set, since the small droplet size is a high interface between the Conditionally conditioned, which must be stabilized usually by emulsifiers.

In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, as in the last case any chemical substance, can be allergenic in individual cases or reactions due to hypersensitivity of the user.

So it is known that certain light dermatoses by certain emulsifiers, but also caused by various fats, and simultaneous exposure to sunlight. Such light dermatoses are also called "Mallorca Acne". An object of the present The present invention was therefore to develop sunscreen products.

Thus, the present invention relates to cosmetic and special embodiments dermatological sunscreen preparations, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is all commonly known. While rays with a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple sunburn, or even more or less severe Burns.  

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight is generally the en gere range viewed around 308 nm.

To protect against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known in which it mostly derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamon acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole han delt.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA Be rich, it is important to have available filter substances, as well as its rays Cause damage. Thus, it has been proven that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue results in what prematurely ages the skin and that they are the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions you can see. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can ver by UVA radiation be strengthened.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the Photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism intervene.

To prevent these reactions, the cosmetic or dermatological In addition, antioxidants and / or radical scavengers may be incorporated in formulations.

UV absorbers or UV reflectors are the most common inorganic pigments known terweise be used in cosmetics for the protection of the skin from UV rays. there are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum miniums, cers and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

Microemulsion gels are also suitable for other cosmetic dermatological applications For example, deodorants, so that the present invention in a particular Embodiment microemulsion gels as a basis for cosmetic deodorants.

Cosmetic deodorants serve to eliminate body odor that arises when the odorless fresh sweat is decomposed by microorganisms. The usual Cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.  

In so-called antiperspirants can by astringents - predominantly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (Aluchlorhydrat) - the formation of the sweat reduces who the.

By using antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants, Bak reduced on the skin. It should ideally only the smell verur effective microorganisms are effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is there by not affected, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of the sweat temporarily stopped.

The combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in and the same composition is in use.

Deodorants should fulfill the following conditions:

• 1) They should cause a reliable deodorization.
• 2) The natural biological processes of the skin are not allowed by the deodorant be affected.
• 3) The deodorants must be in case of overdose or other undetermined harmless according to the application.
• 4) They should not accumulate on the skin after repeated use.
• 5) They should be well incorporated into common cosmetic formulations.

Both known and customary are liquid deodorants, for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like as well as solid preparations, for example deodorant sticks ("Sticks"), powder, powder sprays, intimate cleaners, etc.

Also, the use of microemulsions as a basis for deodorizing or anti Transpirant acting preparations are known. Their relatively high content of emulsified But with the disadvantages outlined above, it has been an evil that has to be remedied.

Another object of the present invention was thus to develop preparations which are suitable as a basis for cosmetic deodorants or antiperspirants are, and do not have the disadvantages of the prior art.  

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to provide cosmetic bases for cosmetic Develop deodorants that are characterized by good skin compatibility.

It has also been an object of the present invention to provide micro-based products To provide emulsion gels with a wide variety of applications available. For example, bases for formulations such as cleaning emulsions, Ge face and body care preparations, but also pronounced medical-pharmazeu be created, for example, preparations for acne and other skin conditions.

In a particular embodiment, the invention therefore relates to microemulsions for Moisturizing the skin, or to stabilize sensitive drugs such. B. Vitamin C or enzymes.

Waterproof eye makeup, such as mascara, is made up with makeup removers aqueous base to be satisfactorily removed only with special surfactants. These surfactants but often have only limited physiological compatibility. For a contact sol These substances are associated with the mucous membrane, in particular the ocular mucosa to irritation, which manifests itself for example in a redness of the eyes. Reactions the This type is typical of surfactant-containing products.

An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy such problems fen.

In a further embodiment, the present invention relates to hair cosmetics preparations. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations care for the hair and scalp. In a preferred embodiment the present invention Formulations that serve to fortify the individual hair and / or give the hairstyle a total of support and fullness.

The human hair can, roughly generalized, be divided into the living part, the hair root, and the dead part, the hair shaft. The hair shaft in turn consists of the medulla, which, however, developmentally conditioned for the modern Humans have become insignificant and regressed, and with thin hair often entirely  missing, the cortex surrounding the medulla, and the medulla whole and cortex enveloping cuticle.

Especially the cuticle, but also the keratinous area between the cuticle and the cortex as the outer shell of the hair are particularly stressed by environmental influences, by Combing and brushing, but also by hair treatment, in particular hair coloring and Hair deformation, z. B. permanent wave method exposed.

For particularly aggressive conditions, such as bleaching with oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide, in which the pigments distributed in the cortex are oxidatively destroyed the interior of the hair can also be affected. Should menschli If hair is permanently dyed, in practice only oxidizing hair dye is used be considered. In oxidative hair dyeing, the formation of the dye takes place Chromophores by reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, more rarely Di amine) and bases (usually p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly water peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% will usually be used det.

It is usually assumed that in addition to the coloring effect, a bleaching agent kung carried by the hydrogen peroxide. In oxidatively dyed human hair, Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes at the sites where Mela ningranula templates, detectable. The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen per oxide react not only with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and there may cause damage to the hair under certain circumstances.

Even the hair washing with aggressive surfactants can stress the hair, at least its appearance or the appearance of the hairstyle total herabset Zen. For example, certain water-soluble hair constituents (eg urea, Uric acid, xanthine, keratin, glycogen, citric acid, lactic acid) by shampooing be leached out.

For these reasons, some hair care cosmetics are used for some time, wel are intended to be rinsed out after exposure to the hair, partly those which should remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated so that They not only serve the care of the individual hair, but also the appearance of the hair  improve overall quality, for example by giving the hair more fullness to fix the hairstyle over a longer period of time or to improve its manageability fibers.

By quaternary ammonium compounds, for example, the combability of the Improve hair decisively. Such compounds attract hair and are often detectable after several washes on the hair.

The state of the art, however, lacked active ingredients and preparations which to provide the damaged hair in a satisfactory manner care. Also proven Preparations that should give abundance to the hairstyle are often considered inadequate, at least they were unsuitable for use as hair care preparations. The hairstyle Fixing preparations of the prior art, for example, usually contain viscous components which are liable to give a feeling of stickiness, wel often has to be compensated by clever formulation.

Task was therefore to remedy these disadvantages of the prior art create.

A particular object of the present invention was to gel-like preparations Base of finely dispersed water-in-oil systems with the lowest possible emulsification gatorgehalt to provide, which are not the disadvantages of the prior art and which for various cosmetic and / or dermatological applications tions, for example the uses described above. A white tere object of the invention was the limited supply of gelatinous preparations Base of finely dispersed water-in-oil systems of the prior art.

It is known per se to prepare W / O microemulsion gels. In WO 92/18147 W / O microemulsions described by the addition of water in O / W microemulsions be transferred. However, one needs to prepare these W / O microemulsion gels a high emulsifier concentration.

In WO 94/22420 microemulsion gels are described, the silicone oils and emulsifiers (Dimethicone Copolyol and Cyclomethicone / Dimethicone) and are characterized by a ho Distinguish the content of propylene glycol and glycerol. The dilution of the gel takes place with propellants, so that evaporates after application to the skin, the propellant gas and a  Gel is produced on the skin. This way of making microemulsion gels in the form of an aerosol could not point the way to the invention.

In US 5162378 W / O microemulsions are described which as emulsifiers a Mi 8-20% of cetyl dimethicone copolyols, polyglycerol esters and hexyl laurate contain.

EP 216557 A2 describes translucent W / O microemulsions, wherein Oil phase mineral oils and used as emulsifiers polyglycerol esters. The Transpa rence of these emulsions is achieved by aligning the refractive indices of water and Oil phase reached.

US 5045337 describes W / O microemulsions for the food industry. Which are characterized by very high levels of lipids (90-99.8%). The used Therefore, emulsifiers based on polyglycerol esters can be small in concentration since the amount of solubilized water is only 0.1 to 5%. It is striking that the production of microemulsion gels for the cosmetic or the Matological range with a low content of emulsifiers, wide variation the oil components and the crosslinking of water droplets by polymers is described.

So all these evils were about to remedy.

Surprisingly, all the objects underlying the invention are solved by Mi kroemulsionsgele,

• (a) based on water-in-oil type microemulsions comprising
• - An oil phase, which consists essentially of low volatility components is composed, and a water phase
• containing:
  one or more polyethoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more monoesters, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W / O-Emul gators and / or
• - One or more monoethers, diethers, polyethers of polyols as W / O-Emul gators and / or
• one or more dimethicone copolyols as W / O emulsifiers and / or  
• - One or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W / O emulsifiers and or
• one or more sorbitan esters as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more methyl glucose esters as W / O emulsifiers
• - if desired, further containing one or more O / W emulsifiers
• - obtainable by mixing a mixture of the basic components send water phase, oil phase, one or more of the invention Emulsifiers is produced, wherein the HLB value of the emulsifier or the Emulsifier combination is in the range of 7-14,
• (b) wherein the droplets of the discontinuous water phase are replaced by one or more several crosslinker substances are interconnected, whose molecules are characterized by at least one hydrophobic region, which an exp tion, which is suitable, the distance of the microemulsion droplets below other, and by at least one hydrophilic region, which with the microemulsion droplets in hydrophilic interaction is able to occur.

The weight percentages of the emulsifiers are preferably <20%, especially be preferably 0.1-10% based on the total weight of the microemulsion.

It is equally advantageous if the crosslinker, in the context of before lying description also referred to as thickener, an independent gel network forms in which the microemulsion droplets then by hydrophilic interaction are held (then there are so-called associative thickeners), or whether the Zu cohesion of the network by cross-linking with the microemulsion droplets in the Kno tenpunkten of the network is effected.

In Fig. 1 this principle of the invention for W / O microemulsions is illustrated: the microemulsion droplets of a W / O microemulsion shown as hatched circles who connected by the crosslinker molecules shown as lines, which carry at both ends symbolized by rectangles hydrophilic radicals. It can be seen that in principle a water droplet can also harbor a plurality of hydrophilic residues, which ensures greater crosslinking and three-dimensionality of the network.

The crosslinker substances used according to the invention generally follow Struktursche mata as follows:

wherein B can symbolize a hydrophobic region of the respective crosslinker molecule and A are each hydrophilic regions, which also differ within a molecule may be of a chemical nature.

But also structural schemes like

and analogously formed, even more complex structures fall well within the framework of hereby presented invention.

Also within the scope of the present invention are structural schemes such as follows:

wherein Z represents a central unit which may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic and usually consists of an oligo- or polyfunctional molecular residue.

Of course, thickeners with a higher degree of branching fall into the frame of the present invention.

For example, Z in Scheme (10) may consist of a glyceryl residue whose three OH functions go into the areas B, which in turn, for example, from (SiOMe₂) chains consist of equal or unequal length, and their terminal group z. B. with a ethoxylated group is covalently linked. Between the functional group (here O-atom) and the hydrophobic group (here SiOMe₂) may also contain other groups (alkyl, Aryl, hetaryl, saturated, unsaturated).

Also, partial substitution of glycerol is conceivable, whereby structures may arise, wel che scheme (9) correspond.

Advantageously, the hydrophobic groups B can be chosen so that the crosslinking in the is totally oil-soluble or at least dispersible in oil, in which case the hydrophilic portion of the Groups A should be overcompensated.  

For the structural scheme (1), for example, the following more specific structural schemes be followed:

wherein R₁, R₂, independently, may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals forming the water-soluble / dispersible part of the polymer. These radicals can z. Polyols (e.g., sorbitol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sucrose, polyglycerol), glucans, sugars, carboylate groups, sulfonate groups, sulfate groups, with hydroxy groups and / or sulfonic acid groups and / or carboxylate groups, and / or or sulfate-substituted aromatics or heteroarmates or SiR (OH) _n groups.

x means a number that allows the whole molecule to be soluble in oil or at least dispersible, typically selected from the range greater than 10, advantageous from the range 20-5000. In some cases, the number x can also significantly higher values, even several millions. This is the expert in itself known and needs no further explanation.

For the structural scheme (10), for example, the following more specific structure mata are followed:

wherein R₁, R₂, R₃ independently of one another may represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic radicals which form the water-soluble / dispersible part of the polymer. These radicals can z. B be polyols (glycerol, pentaerythritol, sucrose, polyglycerol), glucans, sugars, carboylate groups, sulfonate groups, sulfate groups, with hydroxyl groups and / or sulfonic acid groups and / or carboxylate groups and / or sulfate groups substituted aromatics or heteroarmata or SiR (OH) _n groups. x, y, z are numbers that allow the whole molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in oil, typically selected from the range greater than 10, preferably from the range 20-5000.

Partial substitution is also conceivable, one or more of the indices x, y, z the Can assume zero value and one or more of the radicals R₁, R₂ or R₃ What can represent hydrogen atoms.

For the structural scheme (11), for example, the following more specific structure mata are followed:

wherein R₁, R₂, R₃, R₄ independently of one another can represent branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic or aromatic radicals which form the water-soluble / dispersible part of the polymer. These radicals can z. For example, be polyols (glycerol, pentaerythritol, sucrose, polyglycerol), glucans, sugars, carboxylate groups, sulfonate groups, sulfate groups, with hydroxy groups and / or sulfonic acid groups and / or carboxylate groups and / or sulfate groups sub stituierte aromatics or Heteroarmaten or SiR (OH) _n groups. x, y, v and z are numbers that allow the whole molecule to be soluble or at least dispersible in oil, typically selected from the range greater than 10, preferably from the range 20-5000.

Again, it goes without saying that partial substitution is conceivable, with one or more of the indices x, y, z and v can assume the value zero and one or more of the Radicals R₁, R₂, R₃ or R₄ can represent hydrogen atoms. The go Substances, of course, translate into other structural schemes.

It is also advantageous to choose thickeners that branch at the polymer ends so that dendrimers are obtained.

Particularly suitable crosslinkers have been found to be selected from the group

• - The dimethicone copolyols of the general formula R-Si (CH₃) ₂O- (Si (CH₃) ₂O) _n -Si (CH₃) ₂R ', wherein R and R' independently branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic or heteroaromatic hydrophobic groups may represent to the hydrophilic groups are bonded koralent, so that in total the radicals R and R 'are water-soluble or dispersible, which may have the structures mentioned below for hydrophilic groups. It is also possible to choose for R and R 'exclusively hydrophilic groups without hydrophobic partial structures, in which case R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or chain-shaped aliphatic, aromatic, heteroaromatic groups.

Preferred dimethicone copolyols have the general formula (A)

R-Si (CH₃) ₂O- (Si (CH₃) ₂O) _n -Si (CH₃) ₂R ',

wherein n is chosen so that the entire molecule is fat-soluble / dispersible and preferably in the range of 30-10⁷ is selected and the radicals R and R 'independently each other, the following structural elements mean:

R, R '= (CH₂) _y - (O-CH₂-C (OH) H-CH₂) _x OH
R, R '= (CH₂) _y - (OC₂H₄) _x -OH

where y z. B. values of 0-106, preferably 1-30, in particular 2 to 20, and x z. B. values from 1 to 10⁷, preferably 2 to 10⁶, in particular 3 to 150.

Particularly preferred are dimethicone copolyols of the above formula A, wherein R, R '= CH₂CH₂CH₂ (OCH₂CH₂) ₁₂OH and n = 148 means and hereinafter called A1 becomes.

It may also be advantageous if the invention or the verwen use Thickeners on physiological efficacy in the sense of a cosmetic or phar has or has a pharmaceutical effect. For example, the hydrophilic ones End groups of the polymer carry the framework of alginates.

The amount of thickeners according to the invention should preferably be in the range from 0.3 to 30 Wt .-%, in particular 1 to 10 wt .-% amount, each based on the total weight the microemulsion.

The practice of preparing a microemulsion gel according to the invention is demge moderately advantageous therein, after selection of suitable raw materials, d. h., Water and oil phase, a or more W / O emulsifiers used in the invention, one or more inventions Thickener used according to the invention and optionally further substances, the individual components together with stirring and by cooling the mixture to get said gels. In this case, during the cooling liquid crystalline areas or other phases known to those skilled in the art.

Furthermore, the thickener can also be added to a room temperature or by Cooling obtained low-viscosity W / O microemulsion are added.

This inventive method is particularly well suited when the erfindungsge W / O microemulsion gels contain heat-sensitive or readily volatile substances should be spent. Moreover, this is at relatively low temperatures through feeding methods compared to conventional methods energy-saving.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are microemulsion gels,

• (a) based on water-in-oil type microemulsions comprising  
• - a continuous oil phase and a discontinuous water phase
• containing at least one
  one or more polyethoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more monoesters, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more monoethers of polyols and their esters as W / O Emulga gates and / or
• one or more sorbitan esters as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• one or more silicone emulsifiers as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W / O emulsifiers and or
• one or more methyl glucose esters as W / O emulsifiers,
• - Wherein this W / O emulsifier is selected from the group of
• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -H, wherein R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 10
• - The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -R ', where in R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 1 to 30
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 20,
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -C (O) -R ', wherein R and R' independently ver branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 1 to 20 represent
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -C (O) -R ', wherein R and R' independently ver branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n Represent number from 1 to 40,
• - The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 1 to 40 represent len
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 30,
• the polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester based on branched or un branched alkane or alkenoic acids and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10 having
• the cholesterol ethoxylates having a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,
• - The ethoxylated glycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 30
• ethoxylated triglycerides having a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 30,
• - The monoglycerol ether of the type R-O-CH₂-C (H) OH-CH₂OH wherein R is a ver branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl and represent
• - The monoglycerol ester of the type RC (O) OCH₂-C (H) OH-CH₂OH wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical put
• - The diglycerol ester of the type RC (O) OCH₂-C (H) OH-CH₂OC (O) R ', where where R and R 'independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl Hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represents a number from 1 to 30 or  
• - The polyglycerol mono- or di- or -polyester, wherein the fatty acids inde pendent gig each branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alke represent nyl residues,
• - The pentaerythritol ester wherein the fatty acids branched independently or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• - The propylene glycol ester, wherein the fatty acids ver ver independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• - The sorbitan ester, wherein the fatty acids branched independently or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• - The fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical,
• - the silicone emulsifiers
• - The methyl glucose ester, wherein the fatty acids ver independently ver branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals
• if desired, containing one or more O / W emulsifiers
• - a total emulsifier content preferably less than 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the emulsion, comprising
• - obtainable by mixing a mixture of the basic components send water phase, oil phase, one or more of the invention W / O emulsifiers, if desired one or more O / W emulsifiers wherein the HLB value of the emulsifier or the emulsifier combination in the range of 7-14,
• (b) wherein the droplets of the discontinuous water phase are replaced by one or more several crosslinker substances are interconnected, whose molecules are characterized by at least one hydrophobic region, which an exp tion, which is suitable, the distance of the microemulsion droplets below other, and by at least one hydrophilic region, which with the microemulsion droplets in hydrophilic interaction is able to occur.

According to the invention, the emulsifier / emulsifier mixture in egg is particularly advantageous used in an HLB range of 7-14.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). In particular, preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (4) stearate.

As esterified fatty acid ethoxylates can be selected advantageously Polyethylene glycol (12) dilaurate, polyethylene glycol (8) distearate.

It is also favorable, the ethoxylated sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol col (20) sorbitan trioleate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan trisostearate to choose.

As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethyleneglycol (5) phytosterol ver be used.

As ethoxylated triglycerides can advantageously polyethyleneglycol (20) glyceryl tristearate ver be used.

Furthermore, it is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group poly to choose ethylene glycol (5) glyceryl stearate.

As the monoglycerol ether, 2-ethylhexyl glycerol ether can be advantageously used.

It is also low diglycerol esters from the group of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxy to choose fatty acids.

Sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan monooleate have proved successful as sorbitan esters.  

As optional, yet inventively advantageous O / W emulsifiers can be used:
higher ethoxylated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
higher ethoxylated diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms,
higher ethoxylated sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms,
higher ethoxylated esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms,
higher ethoxylated Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäuren saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms,
higher ethoxylated triglycerides of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.

Furthermore, polyglycerol mono- and diesters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms or polyglycerol esters or ethers of methyl glucose esters. Furthermore, it is also possible to use ionic O / W emulsifiers, such as, for example, Salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, acyl glutamates and acyl sarcosinates.

The oil phase of the microemulsion gels according to the invention is advantageously selected from Group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unreacted branched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and ge saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a ketone length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isoisono nanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmit  oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, see above such as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsatd branched, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides, for example, before Partially selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and naturli oils, z. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, Ko coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Sin ne of the present invention to use.

It may also be advantageous to add waxes to the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-calcium triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in terms of to use present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) ver than according to the invention ver used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial in terms of to use the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotrisiloxan, Polydime thylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

It is possible according to the invention to reduce the total content of emulsifiers to less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion gels according to the invention.  

It is preferred that the total content of emulsifiers is less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the microemulsion gels. It is possible in an individual case that the aforementioned concentration limits easily be exceeded or fallen below and still receive the relevant emulsion types become. This comes in light of the wide range of suitable emulsifiers and oil components for the skilled person not unexpected, so he knows that in such Exceeding or falling below the ground of the present invention is not left.

The microemulsion gels according to the invention advantageously contain electrolytes, in particular one or more salts having the following anions: chlorides, also inorganic oxo-Ele ment anions, of these in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminum minate. Also on organic anions based electrolytes can be used advantageously For example, lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, tartrates, citrates and on more. Similar effects are also due to ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its To achieve salts.

Preferred cations of the salts are ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, earth alkali metal, - magnesium, iron or zinc ions used. There is no need for Him mention that in cosmetics only physiologically acceptable electrolytes are used should. Special medical applications of the microemulsions according to the invention on the other hand, at least in principle, may require the use of electrolytes, which should not be used without medical supervision.

Particularly preferred are potassium chloride, common salt, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and Mi. from it. Also advantageous are salt mixtures as in natural salt occur from the Dead Sea.

The concentration of the electrolyte (s) should be about 0.1-10.0% by weight, especially before partially about 0.3-8.0 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the preparation.

The microemulsion gels of the invention also excellently contribute to the skin Smoothing in, in particular, if they are provided with one or more substances, that promote skin smoothing.  

Make microemulsion gels of the invention basics for cosmetic deodorant Antien / antiperspirants, so all the usual active ingredients can be used to advantage the, for example, odor maskers such as the common perfume ingredients, odor Sorber, for example, those described in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 Phyllosilicates, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, IIit, beidellite, nontronite, Sa ponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. germ inhibiting agents are also suitable in the microemulsions of the invention to be worked. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, tri ethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11.trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those disclosed in the patent DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 described effective agents.

The usual Antitranspiranswirkstoffe can also be advantageous in the invention microemulsion gels, in particular astringents, for example basic aluminum chlorides.

The cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can in the form of aerosols, ie from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or sprayable by a pumping device Present preparations or in the form of roll-on devices can be applied liquid Compositions, but also in the form of ordinary bottles and containers portable microemulsion gels.

As a propellant for inventive, sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic Deodorants are the usual known volatile, liquefied propellants, at For example, hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) suitable alone or in Mi can be used together. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are nontoxic propellants per se, in principle Lich would be suitable for the present invention, but still because of consideration environmental impact or other circumstances, especially chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).  

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are used in the Form of a sunscreen. Preferably, these contain in addition to the inventions In addition to the active ingredient combinations according to the invention at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic Pigment.

However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, such cosmetic and dermatological preparations the main purpose of which is not the Protection against sunlight, but still containing a content of UV-protective substances th. B. in day creams usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances is working.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may contain substances which are UV rays absorb in the UVB range, wherein the total amount of the filter substances z. B. 0.1 % By weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 6% by weight is based on the total weight of the preparations.

The UVB filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances z. B. to call:

• - 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, for. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-meth oxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, salicylate;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethyl hexyl ester);
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine

As water-soluble substances are advantageous:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, eg. As sodium, potassium or Triethanolammonium salts,  
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzene zophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their Salts.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used according to the invention is intended to be Of course, not limiting.

The invention also relates to the combination of a UVA filter according to the invention with a UVB filter or a cosmetic or dermatological according to the invention preparation, which also contains a UVB filter.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters in preparations according to the invention zen, which usually contain in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations th are. Such substances are preferably derivatives of dibene zoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Also preparations containing these Contain combinations are the subject of the invention. It can be the same quantities be used on UVA filter substances, which called for UVB filter substances were.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments, commonly used in cosmetics to protect the skin be used before UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, egg sens, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, and Ab conversions in which the oxides are the active agents. Particularly preferred is these are pigments based on titanium dioxide. It can be for the above Combinations mentioned quantities can be used.

An amazing feature of the present invention is that Zu prepare very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin wherein beneficial agents are antioxidants which protect the skin from oxidative bean protection.  

According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants tien. As cheap, but nevertheless optional to use antioxidants all for kosmeti and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxi dantias are used. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only active ingredient class, such as when a cosmetic or dermatological application The focus is on combating oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also favorable to use the microemulsion gels according to the invention with a content of one or more antioxidants, if the preparations are different Serve purposes, for. B. as deodorants or sunscreens.

Particularly advantageous antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of
Amino acids (eg histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanine) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg. , Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg, α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg, dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil, and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthio dipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, Heptahio ninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, α-hydroxypalmitic acid, phytic acid, lacto ferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg., Citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated Fatty acids and their derivatives (eg gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitates, Mg ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbyl acetates), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and benzylic resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid, and the like their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO₄) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable Deri vate (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these ge called active ingredients.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, water-soluble Antioxi danties are used.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations be preferably carries 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-20 wt .-%, esp especially 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s) is present Partly, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the one or more Antioxidants represent advantageous, their respective concentrations from the field from 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Of course, it is known to those skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic preparations usually not without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. Including among For example, bodying agents, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional Active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, Alcohol, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic sub punching etc.

According to the invention, active substances can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active substances, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. Hydrocor tison-17-valerate, vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very low the vitamin B₁, the vitamin B₁₂ the vitamin D₁, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F ge), in particular the γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaensäu re and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. As evening primrose oil, Bor retschöl or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

Although of course the use of hydrophilic agents according to the invention is a further advantage of the microemulsion gels according to the invention that the high number of finely divided droplets just oil-soluble or lipophilic active ingredients with be particularly great effectiveness bio-available.

It is also advantageous to the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances select, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

It is also possible and optionally advantageous to prepare the preparations according to the invention Add detergent surfactants. Aqueous cosmetic cleansing compositions according to the invention or water-based or anhydrous detergents intended for aqueous cleaning Concentrates may be cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants contain, for example, conventional soaps, z. Fatty acid salts of sodium, alkylsul fate, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfobetaines, sarco sinate, amidosulfobetalne, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic monoesters, alkyl ether car boxylates, protein-fatty acid condensates, alkyl betaines and amidobetaines, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleansing preparations for the skin can be in liquid or solid form. They contain preferably minde at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactant or Mixtures thereof, at least one electrolyte and auxiliaries according to the invention, such as they are usually used for this. The surfactant may be preferred in a concentration between 1 and 50 wt .-% in the cleaning preparations vorlie gene, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active sub punch or mixtures thereof, if appropriate, electrolytes and auxiliaries, as is customary be used for it. The surface-active substance may preferably be in a Concentration between 1 and 50 wt .-% in the cleaning preparations, be based on the total weight of the preparations. For example, cetyl tri are advantageous to use methylammonium salts.  

The invention provided for the cleaning of the hair or the skin Zu Compositions contain water and given except the aforementioned surfactants if the customary in cosmetics additives, such as perfume, thickener, color substances, deodorants, antimicrobials, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing agents and Sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts, vitamins, agents and like.

The preparations according to the invention, in spite of their oil content, in amazing Wei se high cleaning power and act highly regenerating or moistening in be train to the general skin condition. In particular, the invention Zube act skin smoothing, reduce the skin's dryness and make the skin smooth.

If the microemulsion gels according to the invention are to be used for hair care, k They contain the usual ingredients, usually for example film-forming poly mers. Of such polymers having at least partially quaternized nitrogen groups (hereinafter referred to as "film former"), preferably those who are elected who own from the group of substances which according to the INCI nomenclature (International No menclature Cosmetic Ingredient) bear the name "Polyquaternium", for example:

Polyquaternium-2 (Chemical Abstracts No. 63451-27-4, eg Mirapol® A-15)
Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of acrylamide and β-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, CAS No. 26006-22-4)
Polyquaternium-6 (homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propene-1-aminium chloride, CAS No. 26062-79-3, eg Merqua® 100
Polyquaternium-7 N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propene-1-aminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS-No. 26590-05-6, z. B. Merqua® S
Polyquaternium-10 Quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose, CAS-No. 53568-66-4, 55353-19-0, 54351-50-7, 68610-92-4, 81859-24-7, e.g. Celqua® SC-230M,
Polyquaternium-11 vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer / diethylsulfate reaction product, CAS-No. 53633-54-8, z. Gafqua® 755N
Polyquaternium-16 vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolinium methochloride copolymer, CAS-No. 29297-55-0, z. Eg Luviqua® HM 552
Polyquaternium-17 CAS no. 90624-75-2, z. Eg Mirapol® AD-1
Polyquaternium-19 Quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol
Polyquaternium-20 water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether
Polyquaternium-21 polysiloxane-polydimethyl-dimethylammonium acetate copolymer z. B. Abil® B 9905
Polyquaternium-22 Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer CAS-No. 53694-7-0, z. Eg Merqua® 280
Polyquaternium-24 polymer quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, reaction product with an epoxide substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, CAS no. 107987-23-5, e.g. Eg Quatrisoft® LM-200
Polyquaternium-28 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, e.g. Eg Gafquat® HS-100
Polyquaternium-29 z. Lexquat® CH
Polyquaternium-31 CAS no. 136505-02-7, e.g. Eg Hypan® QT 100
Polyquaternium-32 N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] ethanaminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS-No. 35429-19-7 polyquaternium-37 CAS-No. 26161-33-1

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention for hair care contain 0.2-50% by weight. one or more film formers, preferably 5-30% by weight, in particular 10-25% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. Such embodiments The preparations according to the invention tend to be damaged by environmental influences or damaged hair or prevent such environmental influences. Furthermore, the inventor Preparations of the hairstyle according to the invention loose body and firmness, without sticky too Act.

It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as Basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis apply corresponding requirements for the formulation of medicinal preparations. The Transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. When Pharmaceutical agents are according to the invention basically all classes of active ingredients suitable, lipophilic active ingredients are preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti  phlogistika, antibiotics, antimycotics, blood circulation promoting agents, keratolytics, Hormones, steroids, vitamins etc.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can kos Contain metic excipients, such as those commonly used in such preparations be, for. As preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, substances for Ver preventing foaming, dyes, pigments that have coloring properties, others, not thickeners falling under the definition of thickeners according to the invention, oberflä chenaktiven substances, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or humid tende substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents tel.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of the abovementioned solvents ver applies.  

As other ingredients can be used fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably esters of fatty acids with lower C-number alcohols, z. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with Low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or low C number polyols, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products.

The microemulsion gels of the invention are z. B. Herge by the following methods provides:

• a) The oil phase is mixed at RT with the emulsifier or the emulsifier combination and touched. It is advantageous to heat the mixture when solid ingredients are added become. To this on RT RT microemulsion is the water at RT phase added in portions with stirring. This microemulsion is given to the inventor The thickener according to the invention with stirring and receives a gel. Dissolves the thickener bad, He can also be given from the outset to the oil phase.
• b) The oil phase is mixed with the emulsifier or the emulsifier combination according to the invention tion and heated in a range of z. 40-85 ° C. Add to this mixture in portions, the 40-85 ° C hot water phase and cooled to RT. The thickener can be added at any time during production.

All quantities, percentages or parts are, unless otherwise stated on the weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixture.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.  

The following figures are% by weight.

Examples 1 to 10 relate to low-viscosity microemulsions, the examples 11 to 22 include the novel Mikoemulsionsgele.

The dimethicone copolyol used is unique in the description with A1 defined as thickener or crosslinker.

example 1

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity Decaglyceryldiisostearate 10.0 dicaprylyl 80.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 2

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil 9806) 10.0 cyclomethicone 15.0 PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate 2.0 sorbitol 5.0 propylene glycol 5.0 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 20.0 Elfacos E200 5.0 Water ves 38.0

Example 3

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate 5.0 sorbitan 2.5 To 2-ethylhexylcyclohexane 82.5 Water ves 10.0

Example 4

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity Sodium isostearoyl lactylate 5.0 Glycerol isostearate 2.0 dicaprylyl 83.0 water 10.0

Example 5

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 4.5 PEG-2 disostearate 2.5 dicaprylyl 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 6

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 6.0 propylene glycol stearate 2.5 dicaprylyl 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 7

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0 Polyglycerol 10-isostearate 5.0 dicaprylyl 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 8

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0 Lauryl glucoside 4.0 octyldodecanol 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 9

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0 PEG-20 sorbitan stearate 5.0 Cetearylisononanoate 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 10

W / O microemulsion, low viscosity 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin 2.0 Steareth-15 5.0 Caprylic Capric Triglycerides 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Example 11

W / O microemulsion, gel Cetyl dimethicone copolyol (Abil 9806) 10.0 cyclomethicone 14.0 PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate 2.0 sorbitol 5.0 propylene glycol 20.0 Aluminum Chlorohydrate 20.0 Elfacos E200 5.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0 Water ves 37.0

Example 12

W / O microemulsion, gel Decaglyceryldiisostearate 10.0 Picaprylylether 78.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone Copolyol 2.0

Example 31

W / O microemulsion, gel PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0 Lauryl glucoside 4.0 octyldodecanol 81.0 Water ves 11.0 Dimethicone Copolyol 1.0

Example 14

W / O microemulsion, gel Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0 PEG-20 sorbitan stearate 5.0 Cetearylisononanoate 81.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone Copolyol 2.0

Example 15

W / O microemulsion, gel 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin 2.0 Steareth-15 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 81.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone Copolyol 2.0

Example 16

W / O microemulsion, gel PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate 5.0 sorbitan 2.5 To 2-ethylhexylcyclohexane 80.5 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Example 17

W / O microemulsion, gel Sodium isostearoyl lactylate 5.0 Glycerol isostearate 2.0 dicaprylyl 81.0 water 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Example 18

W / O microemulsion, gel Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 4.5 PEG-2 disostearate 2.5 dicaprylyl 81.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Example 19

W / O microemulsion, gel Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 6.0 propylene glycol stearate 2.5 dicaprylyl 79.5 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Example 20

W / O microemulsion, gel PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0 Polyglycerol 10-isostearate 5.0 dicaprylyl 81.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Example 21

W / O microemulsion, gel PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0 Lauryl glucoside 4.0 octyldodecanol 81.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Example 22

W / O microemulsion, gel Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0 PEG-20 sorbitan stearate 5.0 Cetearylisononanoate 81.0 Water ves 10.0 Dimethicone copolyol 2.0

Water 23

W / O microemulsion, gel 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin 2.0 Steareth-15 5.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 83.0 Water ves 10.0

Claims (2)

1. microemulsion gels,

• (a) based on water-in-oil type microemulsions comprising
• - An oil phase, which is essentially composed of semivolatile constituents, and a water phase
• containing:
  one or more polyethoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more monoesters, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W / O Emul gators and / or
• - One or more monoethers, diethers, polyethers of polyols as W / O emulsifiers and / or emulsifiers
• one or more dimethicone copolyols as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• one or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• one or more sorbitan esters as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more methyl glucose esters as W / O emulsifiers
• - if desired, further containing one or more O / W emulsifiers
• obtainable in such a way that a mixture of the basic components comprising aqueous phase, oil phase, one or more of the emulsifiers according to the invention is prepared, the HLB value of the emulsifier or of the emulsifier combination being in the range of 7-14,
• (B) in which the droplets of the discontinuous water phase are interconnected by one or more crosslinker substances whose molecules are characterized by at least one hydrophobic region having an expan sion, which is suitable to bridge the distance of the microemulsion droplets unterein other, and by at least one hydrophilic region which is capable of hydrophilic interaction with the microemulsion droplets.

2. microemulsion gels,

• (a) based on water-in-oil type microemulsions comprising
• a continuous oil phase and a discontinuous water phase
• containing at least one
  one or more polyethoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated W / O emulsifiers and / or
  one or more monoesters, diesters, polyesters of polyols as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more monoethers of polyols and their esters as W / O Emulga factors and / or
• - One or more sorbitan esters as W / O emulsifiers
• one or more silicone emulsifiers as W / O emulsifiers and / or
• - One or more fatty alcohols or fatty acids as W / O emulsifiers
• - Wherein this W / O emulsifier is selected from the group of
• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -H, wherein R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 10
• - The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -R ', where in R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 1 to 30
• - the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 20,
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -C (O) -R ', wherein R and R' independently ver branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 1 to 20 represent
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -C (O) -R ', wherein R and R' independently ver branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n Represent number from 1 to 40,
• - The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH₂-CH₂-O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 1 to 40 represent len
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH₂-CH (CH₃) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 30,
• - The Polyoxyethylensorbitanfettsäureester, based on branched or un-branched alkane or alkenoic acids and a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10 comprising
• the cholesterol ethoxylates having a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,
• - The ethoxylated glycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 30
• ethoxylated triglycerides having a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 30,
• - The monoglycerol ether of the type RO-CH2-C (H) OH-CH2OH wherein R represents a ver branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and
• - The monoglycerol ester of the type RC (O) OCH2-C (H) OH-CH2OH where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical
• - The diglycerol ester of the type RC (O) OCH2-C (H) OH-CH2OC (O) R ', where where R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30 or represent
• the polyglycerol mono- or di- or polyesters, where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• the pentaerythritol ester wherein the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• the propylene glycol ester, wherein the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• the sorbitan ester, wherein the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• the fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical,
• - the silicone emulsifiers
• the methyl glucose ester, wherein the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,
• if desired, containing one or more O / W emulsifiers
• a total emulsifier content preferably less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, comprising
• - Obtainable in such a way that a mixture of the basic components, comprehensive water phase, oil phase, one or more of the W / O emulsifiers of the invention, if desired, one or more O / W emulsifiers is prepared, wherein the HLB value of the emulsifier or the emulsifier combination is in the range of 7-14,
• (B) in which the droplets of the discontinuous water phase are interconnected by one or more crosslinker substances whose molecules are characterized by at least one hydrophobic region having an expan sion, which is suitable to bridge the distance of the microemulsion droplets unterein other, and by at least one hydrophilic region which is capable of hydrophilic interaction with the microemulsion droplets.