DE2617919A1 - COSMETIC PRODUCT FOR ACTIVATING THE METABOLISM OF THE SKIN AND METHOD FOR PREPARING THIS PRODUCT - Google Patents

Description

MR / MCN / C0 / 28.926
April 1976

OELAUE

24, avenue Marceau

75008 PARIS, France

"Cosmetic product for activating the metabolism of the skin and method for the preparation of this product."

The present invention relates to a new cosmetic product which stimulates the metabolism and the renewal of skin cells and especially of keratin. The invention also relates to a method for the preparation thereof cosmetic product.

As is known per se, the keratin is produced by peeling of the stratum corneum or the top layer of the outer skin is permanently removed, so that the advantage of the cosmetic Product with a general effect to revitalize the skin and in particular to promote the formation of keratin its effect on the metabolism and the renewal of the cells of the basal layer of the epidermis is striking.

The present invention is particularly cosmetic

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ORIGINAL INSPEGTED

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Product related to the subject matter, which is effective in the above-mentioned manner and is perfectly harmless and tolerable for the skin.

This cosmetic product is characterized in that it contains a cosmetologically effective proportion of nucleotides in conjunction with a suitable carrier, the preferred nucleotide weight proportion of this product being in the order of magnitude of 0.05 to 5 ° .

According to the invention, this cosmetic product is in Form of milk, cream, gel, lotion, serum, beauty mask or the like, depending on the physical condition and the kind of the components of the carrier used.

As is known per se, the nucleotides are specific compounds of phosphoric acid and nucleosides, which in turn by combining a carbohydrate, generally a pentose such as ribose or deoxyribose in the Animals, with products based on purine (adenine or guanine) or pyrimidine-based (cytosine, TJrazil or thymine). It is also known that the nucleotides represent the basic units of nucleic acids, which are macromolecules, wherein these nucleic acids are the main components of the cell nuclei and are used for cell reproduction and biosynthesis of animal or vegetable protein bodies are indispensable. It is therefore understood that the cosmetic product according to the invention is particularly effective for the metabolism and the reproduction of the skin cells, since it is responsible for the formation of nucleic acids necessary basic units of the skin cells.

The applicant has proven that topical application is likely to have an extremely beneficial effect a polycondensation process that leads to the formation of nucleic acids could actually be achieved.

According to another feature of the present invention

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The cosmetic product can be a preservative or contain other active agents than the nucleotides, this active agent in particular among the proteid substances, polypeptides, Amino acids, vitamins, especially those of group B, queen feed juice, pollen, serums or natural ones Extracts of different origin is chosen.

According to the invention, the cosmetic product is through Hydrolysis, prepared by chemical means or by enzymolysis of a starting material which contains nucleic acid, wherein the term nucleic acid includes the nucleic acids themselves as well as the substances that contain the nucleic acids and through Partial hydrolysis can form the latter, namely the natural nucleoproteins and the intermediate products obtained by hydrolysis, which are located between the nucleoprotein state and the nucleic acid state, such as, for example, the nucleins. The composition or the lysate obtained directly by hydrolysis of the starting material can optionally be cosmetic Forming the product without the addition of other substances or the extraction of certain components will. However, it is generally necessary to carry out such an extraction or the appropriate extraction method for the lysate Add ingredients to obtain the carrier of the finished product. In addition, the lysate or the derived modified product further active agents, which are selected from the aforementioned substances, and optionally a Preservatives can be added. According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, one can use the aforementioned Lysate make a secretion of the nucleotides and an enrichment of this lysate in eucleotides before the actual production of the cosmetic product according to the invention is carried out.

A substance rich in nucleic acids, such as yeast, is preferably chosen as the starting substance of the method. Treatment by enzymolysis will generally be used

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prefer, which allows a more selective hydrolysis to be carried out compared to treatment by chemical means, so that the other active substances that may be contained in the starting material are not destroyed or destroyed as little as possible or become degenerate. Depending on the treatment chosen, the agent resulting from the hydrolysis is either a Chemolysate or an enzymolysate or a chemo-enzymolysate.

There are now various examples of use in an unlimited manner of the present invention.

A yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisiae), both chemically and by enzymolysis is treated. The thus obtained. Chemo-enzymolysate is prepared as milk, cream, lotion or gel under such conditions that its content of nucleotides is preferred is between 0.05 and 5 percent by weight.

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EXAMPLE 1 : A night cream is prepared in the following way:

Parts by weight

A - grlycerol monostearate 13> 25

Hexaglycerin distearate. 2.70

Ethyl 2-hexyl acetoxystearate 2.70

Methylphenyl silicone 2.70

Propylene Glycol Eapron 'Caprylic Acid Ester 5.25

Petroleum jelly. 5.25

Myristyl myristic acid ester. 0.60

Cetyl alcohol, 2.10

Polyoxyethylene alcohol 0.80

Soy lecithin 1.30

Fragrance 0.50

B - yeast chemoenzymolysate 2.00

Polyoxyethylene glycol 2.70

Polyoxyethylene sorbitol monostearate .... 3> 30th

Allantoin. 0.20

Preservatives '. .. 0.30

Iiö sl & JC & eB collagen 1.30

Distilled water qsp 100

For this preparation, the mixture of the components A with the exception of the fragrance is melted at a temperature of 65 ⁰ C. After cooling down to 55 ^° C., the fragrance is added to the mixture.

The preservative is dissolved in the heated to 80 ⁰ C water, polyoxyethylene glycol and polyoxyethylene Sorbitplmonostearat are added to this solution and the mixture is cooled to 55 ⁰ C. The allantoin is then dissolved in the agent obtained in this way and the chemo-enzymolysate is added, after which all of the constituents A are mixed with the mass obtained in this way with vigorous stirring. the

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further cooling takes place with constant stirring.

When the temperature reached 4O ⁰ G, the collagen is added and the cooling to room temperature continues.

EXAMPLE 2 A night cream with the following composition is prepared:

Weight parts

A - Grlycerin stearate 8.00

Triglycerides 6.00

Full fat alcohol 2.30

Full fatty acids 0.80

Lactic acid ezethyle is 0.20

Isopropyl myristic acid ester 9.90

Octyl stearate 11 * 90

Polyoxyethylene stearate 0.56

Polyoxyethylene lanolin acid ester 0.40

Tocopherol 0.05

Fragrance 0.08

B - water '47.14

Propylene glycol 0.15

Preservative 0.30

Ent specified horse serum 8.74

C - Soluble collagen 2.00

Yeast chemoenzymolysate. 1.50

100.00

For this preparation the components i. melted and then ^{cooled to 60 0} C before the tokopkerol and the odoriferous substance are added.

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The components of B are separately dissolved and cooled to 6O ⁰ C before the entspezifizierte horse serum is added.

An emulsion is created by Abschttttung of the components A to the entire B components at a temperature of 60 ⁰ C with continuous stirring, is slowly cooled to 40 ⁰ C before the soluble collagen and the chemo-enzymolyzate be added.

EXAMPLE 5 - A day cream is prepared as follows:

Parts by weight

A - Isopropyl myristate 10,000

Saturated branched

Hydrocarbon (squalane) 4,200

Stearin 0.850

Polyoxyethylene sorbitol monostearate .... 0.430 Sorbitol monostearate 2.150

Self-emulsifiable glycerine mono-

stearate 8,700

Isoparaffin 15,000

Cholesterol 0.850

B - water, 54.720

Preservative 0.300

Panthen oil 0.600

Arginine glutamate 0.600

Riboflavin 0.004

Aluminum methionic acid ester 0.296

Yeast chemoenzymolysate 1,300

100,000 In order to prepare such a cream, the

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Ingredients A melted. The components of B are au.fgelo.st under heat and cooled to 60 ⁰ G "before the last three components are B added. The emulsion that forms the cream, is then carried throughout the components A-G ow in the whole components B achieved at a temperature of 6O ⁰ C with constant stirring. After cooling to 40 ⁰ C the G-emic optionally fragrance is added.

EXAMPLE 4 - A day cream with the following composition is prepared as follows:

Weight parts

A - Branched saturated hydrocarbon .. 11.00

Isopropyl myristate 11.00

Vaseline 11.00

Full fat alcohol 3.30

Self-emulsifiable G-lycerin monostearate .. .. 8.30

Polyoxyethylene sorbitol monostearate 2.20

Sorbitol monostearate 4.50

Pine saponifiable vegetable oils 1, 00

B - water 38.40

Propylene glycol 0.60

Preservative 0.30

Triethanolamine 0.04

C - yeast chemoenzymolysate. , 5> 50

Soluble collagen 2.80

Fragrance 0.06

100.00

The preparation is carried out in the following way:., The components A are melted and cooled to 60 ⁰ C before the unsaponifiable vegetable oils "are added to the loading

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constituents B are dissolved separately and then cooled to a temperature of 60 ⁰ G. The emulsion is achieved in that all of the components A ^{are poured into the components B at a temperature of 60 °} C. with constant stirring. The emulsion is cooled while stirring before the constituents C are mixed in separately from one another.

EXAMPLE 5 - A moisturizing cream with the following composition is prepared as follows:

Parts by weight

A - isoparaffin 9.00

Triglycerides 1.00

Silicone paste 1, 50

Wool Fatty Alcohol Linoic Acid Esters. 1.75

Wool fatty acids 0.50

Wool fatty alcohols 1, 75

Sorbitol tristearate 0.90

Propylene glycol monostearate 0.90

Beeswax 0.60

B - yeast dbemoenzymolysate 2.50

Polyoxyethylene glycol 2.70

Soluble calcium lactic acid ester. 1.00

U sodium pyroglutamate 0.50

Preservative 0, JO

Fragrance 0.50

Ammonia at 20 $ 0.25

Distilled water qsp 100

The components A are for this preparation melted, mixed and cooled to 45 ⁰ C.

Components B with the exception of the chemo-enzymolysate

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are dissolved in the heated to 80 ⁰ C water, then cooled to 45 ⁰ G, in which case the chemotherapy enzymolyzate is admixed. All ingredients B are added to ingredients A with vigorous stirring. The mixture is ^{cooled down to JO 0} C with constant stirring and the cooling continues with normal stirring.

EXAMPLE 6 - The moisturizing lotion is prepared as follows:

Parts by weight

A - water 88, 60

Preservative 0.30

Lactic acid 1.50

NaOH at 30IO 1.83

Sodium pyroglutamate 2.50

Urea 2.00

Allantoin. 0.16

Yeast ghemo enzymolysate 2.00

Dye at 1 ^ 0.01

B - polyoxyethylene stearate 0.50

Polyoxyethylene triglycerides 0.50

Fragrance 0.10

100.00

This lotion is prepared in the following way: the preserving agent is dissolved at a temperature of 90 ⁰ C in all of the water and then cooled to 60 ⁰ C before the other components A are dissolved in the solution thus obtained. The components B are added separately at a temperature of 50 ⁰ C uitd the entirety of the constituents A is added to the entire constituents B under constant. Stir poured off.

EXAMPLE 7 the following beauty serum is prepared as follows:

Weight parts

Water 50.00

Preservative 0.30

Arginine glutamate 1.00

Queen feed 0.50

Soluble collagen 4.00

Yeast Chemoenzymolysate 3 »00

Horse serum 41 »20

100.00

I ^{1 For} this preparation, the water is heated if necessary to dissolve the preservative and then cooled to dissolve the other ingredients.

EXAMPLE 8 the gel is prepared as follows:

Weight parts

A- water 86.00

Carboxyvinyl polymer 1, 72

Preservative 0.30

B - water - 8.40

Diisopropanolamine 2.58

C - yeast chemoenzymolysate 1,00

100.00

This preparation is achieved by mixing constituents A, so that a gel is formed, which through the Addition of the constituents B is neutralized with constant stirring. Components 0 are then added with stirring.

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EXAMPLE 9 the cleansing milk is prepared as follows:

Weight parts

A - isoparaffin 12.50

Wool fatty alcohol 1.50

Soy lecithin 0.70

Propylene glycol mono tearate 1.00

Sorbitan trioleate 1.00

Transesterified castor oil 1.00

B - yeast chemoenzymolysate 1.50

Preservative 0.30

Fragrance 0.50

Distilled water q_sp 100

For the preparation of this cleansing milk, the constituents A are melted and then ^{cooled to 40 °} C. and the fragrance is dissolved in the mass thus obtained. At a temperature of 90 ^° C., the preservative is dissolved separately in the distilled water and ^{cooled to 40 °} C., the yeast chemoenzymolysate then being added. The mixture obtained in this way is added to the mixture of constituents A, which also contains the fragrance, with vigorous stirring. This preparation is cooled ^{to 20 ° C. with further stirring.}

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- 1 ¹ ^ -

EXAMPLE 10 the make-up cream is prepared as follows:

G-ewi distort e

A - isoparaffin 9.50

Silicone paste 1.50

Triglycerides 0.90

Wool fatty alcoholic acid ester 1.70

WoH fatty alcohols 2.00

Wool fatty acids 0.50

Sorbitan tristearate 0.80

Propylene glycol monostearate 0.90

Beeswax 0.60

B - titanium oxide 2.10

Microtalk. 2.10

Kaolin. 2.10

Iron oxide 0.90

- Yeast chemoenzymolysate 1.40

Soluble calcium lactic acid ester ...... 1.00

Preservative 0.30

Polyethylene glycol 4.30

Fragrance ... 0.50

Distilled water qsp 100

Ammonia at 20 fi . 0.25

For this preparation, the constituents A are melted and the dyes B are ground in about half of the melt A obtained, the remainder of the melt A then being added to the ground material. The mixture is heated ^{to 55 0 O.}

The preservative is gelbst separated in the heated to 90 ⁰ g of water of Kalziummilchsäureester and ■ polyethylene glycol are added, the solution is cooled to 55 ⁰ O to the Yeast Chemoenzymolysat admix. the

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The aqueous solution thus obtained is added to the mixture A + B with vigorous stirring. The Preparat is fairly quickly cooled to 40 ⁰ O, the fragrance is added and then the cooling continues with constant stirring until it reaches a temperature of 30 ⁰ C. With moderate stirring, the further cooling is continued down to a temperature of 20 ⁰ C,

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Claims (6)

PATENT CLAIMS f \\ - Cosmetic product for stimulating the metabolism of the skin, characterized in that it contains a cosmetologically active proportion of nucleotides in connection with a suitable carrier. 2.- Cosmetic product according to claim 1, characterized that its content of nucleotides is in the order of magnitude of 0.05 to 5 percent by weight. 3.- Cosmetic product according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is used as milk, cream, gel, Lotion, serum, beauty mask or the like. Is present. 4 · - Cosmetic product according to any one of the preceding claims, dad, u raw characterized that there are other Active ingredients, which are particularly among the protein substances, polypeptides, Amino acids, vitamins especially of group B, the queen feed juice, pollen, serums and natural Extracts are selected, and optionally contains a preservative. 5.- Process for the preparation of a cosmetic product according to a of claims 1 to 4 »characterized in that it consists in 'a starting material, which contains nucleoproteins, nucleins and / or nucleic acids, to be treated chemically by hydrolysis and / or enzymolysis, in order to obtain a lysate rich in nucleotides, and the nucleotides of the lysate optionally after separation add a suitable carrier for these nucleotides from this lysate *, or to use only the components of the lysate to form this carrier. 6.- The method according to claim 5, characterized. characterized in that a yeast is used as the starting material. 609846/0896