EP1359239A1 - Method and device for knitting tubular articles provided with an elastic yarn and thereby manufatured article - Google Patents

Method and device for knitting tubular articles provided with an elastic yarn and thereby manufatured article Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1359239A1
EP1359239A1 EP03291020A EP03291020A EP1359239A1 EP 1359239 A1 EP1359239 A1 EP 1359239A1 EP 03291020 A EP03291020 A EP 03291020A EP 03291020 A EP03291020 A EP 03291020A EP 1359239 A1 EP1359239 A1 EP 1359239A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wire
thread
needles
elastic
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP03291020A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1359239B1 (en
Inventor
Bruno Jean Bugis
Dominique Parigot
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
EUROPEENNE de la MAILLE ET DES TISSUS TECHNIQUES (SEMTT) Ste
EUROP de la MAILLE ET DES TISS
Europeenne de la Maille Et Des Tissus Techniques (Semtt) Ste
Original Assignee
EUROPEENNE de la MAILLE ET DES TISSUS TECHNIQUES (SEMTT) Ste
EUROP de la MAILLE ET DES TISS
Europeenne de la Maille Et Des Tissus Techniques (Semtt) Ste
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Application filed by EUROPEENNE de la MAILLE ET DES TISSUS TECHNIQUES (SEMTT) Ste, EUROP de la MAILLE ET DES TISS, Europeenne de la Maille Et Des Tissus Techniques (Semtt) Ste filed Critical EUROPEENNE de la MAILLE ET DES TISSUS TECHNIQUES (SEMTT) Ste
Publication of EP1359239A1 publication Critical patent/EP1359239A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1359239B1 publication Critical patent/EP1359239B1/en
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/38Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B15/48Thread-feeding devices
    • D04B15/50Thread-feeding devices for elastic threads
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B65CONVEYING; PACKING; STORING; HANDLING THIN OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL
    • B65HHANDLING THIN OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL, e.g. SHEETS, WEBS, CABLES
    • B65H59/00Adjusting or controlling tension in filamentary material, e.g. for preventing snarling; Applications of tension indicators
    • B65H59/38Adjusting or controlling tension in filamentary material, e.g. for preventing snarling; Applications of tension indicators by regulating speed of driving mechanism of unwinding, paying-out, forwarding, winding, or depositing devices, e.g. automatically in response to variations in tension
    • B65H59/384Adjusting or controlling tension in filamentary material, e.g. for preventing snarling; Applications of tension indicators by regulating speed of driving mechanism of unwinding, paying-out, forwarding, winding, or depositing devices, e.g. automatically in response to variations in tension using electronic means
    • B65H59/388Regulating forwarding speed
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/26Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel stockings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/28Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel gloves
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/38Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B15/44Tensioning devices for individual threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/38Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B15/54Thread guides
    • D04B15/56Thread guides for flat-bed knitting machines
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/66Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements
    • D04B15/80Devices for determining or controlling patterns ; Programme-control arrangements characterised by the thread guides used
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B35/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, knitting machines, not otherwise provided for
    • D04B35/10Indicating, warning, or safety devices, e.g. stop motions
    • D04B35/14Indicating, warning, or safety devices, e.g. stop motions responsive to thread breakage
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B65CONVEYING; PACKING; STORING; HANDLING THIN OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL
    • B65HHANDLING THIN OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL, e.g. SHEETS, WEBS, CABLES
    • B65H2701/00Handled material; Storage means
    • B65H2701/30Handled filamentary material
    • B65H2701/31Textiles threads or artificial strands of filaments
    • B65H2701/319Elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of knitting gloves and similar articles including elastic fibers in their texture, as well as a device implementing the method and a product obtained by this method.
  • the articles concerned by the present invention are articles made by knitting a fabric from one or more threads. These articles can present a knitting mode forming different types of "armor", that is, the structure and spatial organization of the thread or wires within the knitted fabric.
  • armor that is, the structure and spatial organization of the thread or wires within the knitted fabric.
  • One of the most common armor is for example the one called “jersey” and includes many knitted derivatives according to variants more or less close.
  • the present invention applies to articles knitted so as to obtain a shape comprising one or more tubular parts obtained directly during knitting, that is to say without the need to close the fabric, for example by sewing or gluing, to obtain this tubular shape.
  • Such articles of clothing may be used for reasons of comfort or aesthetics, but also include specific technical characteristics for protection, safety, or efficiency, especially in the industrial field.
  • knitted glove item will thus be used for designate all the items specified above.
  • Such articles may have a single tubular shape as socks, or several tubular forms such as gloves, mittens, or socks with separate toes. These different forms tubulars can optionally be made separately and then assembled between them, or carried out continuously during knitting.
  • Such articles may also include extensions making for example a cuff or sleeve, covering all or part of the coated limb, by example the forearm or the arm.
  • Such sleeves can be made in as integral extensions to gloves or as separate articles usable in themselves.
  • Machines performing knitting operations are called knitting looms rectilinear, and are very specially adapted to this type of shape.
  • This kind of profession is specialized to the point that some machines are for example specially designed to knit in parallel the two articles of the same pair of gloves.
  • These machines can often be directly parameterized to choose the size of the article to be produced, so as to make any choice which different sizes of the same article model.
  • the thread hooked by the needles is unwound a coil in a vertical position.
  • This wire then passes through a berth, where it is pinched by mechanical means so as to maintain tension sufficient.
  • This wire then passes through a callback device called system "Fisherman", which dampens the variations in voltage occurring during calls of thread, by the needles at each change of direction of the carriage of knitting.
  • the wire then passes through a wire guide mounted on a sliding system led by a cart that guides it in front of the needles of each needle, at the as the knitting progresses.
  • threads can be unwound from several reels, and brought in the same way to the guide-wire to be taken together by the needles. Some of these threads can also be taken only by some needles, for example to make an edge or a zone with ribs, inserting an elastic thread taken by a needle on three, or to achieve different mesh effects in the texture of the knit obtained.
  • Some of these threads may also be guided by a thread guide at "To vanish", so as to appear only on one side of the texture obtained, for example for reasons of comfort or aesthetics.
  • bottom threads knitted together by needle beds screwed to screw. These needles are supported and guided in parallel grooves formed on the surface of a support, the assembly constituting a "needle bed”.
  • Gold such son are usually quite thick and sheathed or "gimped" in a non-elastic fiber braid, and an unsightly appearance. Moreover Rib knitting gives elasticity in one direction, matching a large thickness of the textile and low flexibility.
  • One of the aims of the invention is to propose knitted articles having a more uniform elasticity in their structure, or better flexibility and an unchanged appearance, to be able to make more articles comfortable and benefit from a greater choice of aesthetics.
  • One of the aims of the invention is to propose knitted articles having a greater elasticity in the structure of their fabric, thereby reducing the number of sizes to be produced and / or stored for the same article template.
  • a knitted article intended to clothe the hand or foot, characterized in that it comprises at least two tubular knitted parts directly in their tubular form from a plurality of wires comprising at least a first wire, called a ground wire, and a second wire, called a wire of elasticity, inserted according to a non-zero tension and substantially constant, the elastic thread being made from natural or artificial rubber or elastane or a material having similar elasticity and deformability.
  • the elasticity thread is included only in certain regions of the knitted article.
  • the elastic yarn is a non-elastane yarn sheathed, vanished during knitting.
  • the article is knitted according to a gauge included between 3 and 16 needles per inch.
  • the article is knitted in a jersey weave or derived from this armor.
  • the article makes a piece of clothing intended to cover the hand or the foot, and having at least two parts of forms tubular joining in at least a portion to form a tubular portion communicating with these two tubular parts.
  • the article has the shape of a glove, or a mitten, or a sock or stocking, the article having at least two fingers separated.
  • Another object of the invention is to propose a knitting device glove-making or tubular-style making articles with improved elasticity of the structure itself of their knitting.
  • a knitting device of shaped articles tubular comprising means for supplying at least one wire, bottom, from a wire source to a movable wire guide, which presents this wire near the ends of a succession of needles aligned so parallel and coplanar in two needle beds arranged opposite each other and each carried by a needle bed to allow the knitting of one side of tubular shapes, each of these needles being able to move along its longitudinal axis for gripping this thread in fastening means and bringing it back back during a wire call, passing it through a loop of wire previously formed around this needle, thus forming a new loop overtaking the previous one and then releasing it from the means snap and slide this same needle through this new loop, characterized in that it comprises supply means, said supplier, of at least one yarn of elasticity, spandex or natural rubber or artificial or a material with similar mechanical characteristics, since a source of yarn of elasticity up to the yarn guide for this yarn of elasticity to be grasped by all or some of the needles together with at least one ground
  • the supplier comprises means of restraint of the elastic thread, these retaining means being controlled by means of control responsive to the movement of the needles, or the wire guide, or means for measuring the tension in the elastic thread or in at least one thread background.
  • the retaining means comprise a retainer mechanism in contact with the elasticity wire and moving simultaneously with it and without slippage, moving this mechanism retaining device being controlled by a set value to be obtained for the voltage of this elastic yarn downstream of the supplier.
  • the movement of the holding mechanism is regulated by regulating means responsive to maintain a voltage substantially constant in the elastic wire at the output of the supplier.
  • the device comprises detection means breakage or drop in tension of the elastic thread between the supplier's exit and the wire guide, these detection means being used by means of command to control the stopping of the knitting when the elastic yarn is broken or that its voltage drops below a certain value.
  • the device comprises input means at least one computer or electronic data representing a value set point for regulating means acting within the supplier to regulate the tension of the elastic thread.
  • Another object of the invention is to propose a method allowing the producing, by a straight knitting machine, articles having elasticity improved the structure of the knitting.
  • This goal is achieved by a process of knitting shaped articles tubular by at least one bed of needles parallel to each other knitting at least a ground wire, characterized in that it comprises the provision of at least one wire of elasticity, made of elastane or natural or artificial rubber or a material similar mechanical characteristics, by means of supply, so-called supplier, from a source of yarn and up to a thread guide moving near the ends of parallel and coplanar needles, the needles belonging to two needles beds arranged opposite each other and served by the mobile wire guide on a trolley to ensure continuity knitting of two opposite faces of the tubular shapes, at least one part of these needles grasping the elastic thread and at least one ground wire in the same cycle of movement to constitute a new loop in bringing these threads through another loop previously formed of the same way, this elastic thread being dispensed at the exit of the supplier in maintaining a non-zero voltage and substantially constant.
  • the tension in the elastic thread is maintained at a value ranging from 2 grams to 6 grams.
  • the elastic thread is presented in front of the needles a guide wire, the position of the elastic wire relative to the wire of bottom in front of the needles to obtain a fabric where one of these two son appears mainly on one side, the other thread appearing predominantly on the other side.
  • the elastic thread is presented in front of the needles by a trimming wire guide, this trimming wire guide being positioned so to leave a maximum distance of 4.3 mm, according to the axis of the needles, between the wire guide and the teeth formed by the upper edge of the needle bed support carrying the needles.
  • a specialized machine operating according to the invention realizes an article (9) of tubular shape using two beds needles, or needle beds (1, 2), the needles being parallel and coplanar between they are in the same bed.
  • These two needle beds, or needle beds are rectilinear type and arranged opposite each other, often at an angle of 90 ° between the planes of the two needle beds, the ends of the needles being directed towards the center and upwards.
  • These needles knit in one continuous operation both sides of a flattened tubular shape (9), while ensuring continuity between the two ends of these two needle beds.
  • knitting is made by running in front of the needles (11, 12, 13) a wire (36) driven by a wire-guide trolley (3), which each needle (11) hangs in turn in a hook (111) at its end, advancing (d11) along its axis longitudinal.
  • the hook (111) can be closed by closure means like a palette (112).
  • the needle (12) back (d12) away from the carriage path, and thus returns the wire (36) to through an old loop (m121), or mesh, formed around this same needle and belonging to a previous row made in a previous passage of the wire.
  • the wire drawn through this old loop (m121) then forms a new loop (m122), through which the needle slips when it returns to its position (13) of rest after having released the means wire hooking.
  • the continuity between the two faces of the tubular form is ensured by example by the continuous and successive passage of the thread in front of the two beds of needles, guided in this by a wire guide (3) movable on a carriage.
  • the seizure of thread by a last needle of a needle bed is then followed by the seizure of the thread by a needle facing him in the other needle bed, which becomes the first needle of this other needle bed during this new passage.
  • the invention proposes to integrate one or more elastic threads (37) directly into the main mesh, assembled with the background wire or vanished during knitting.
  • the invention makes it possible to article (91 to 95; FIGS. 3a to 3e) tubular having high elasticity according to an extremely uniform structure, while knitting directly all or part of the article in its final form.
  • Such an elastic thread is formed of at least one fiber elastane, or natural rubber, or a material with the characteristics similar elasticity and deformation.
  • this elastic yarn can be chosen from different thicknesses, or titrations. In the embodiment described here and for the tests carried out by the inventor, this titration can be understood in a range from 28,000m / kg to 50,000m / kg or in a range from from 22 decitex to 150 decitex.
  • An article according to the invention is thus a knitted article comprising one or several tubular portions knitted directly in their tubular form, and having an elasticity thread included at a non-zero tension and substantially constant in all or part of the fabric.
  • Such an article can in particular include such a thread of elasticity only certain regions. These regions can be chosen made to get reinforcements in some parts, for example in the form of stripes or localized areas. These regions can be made for reasons of strength, comfort, sealing, or according to characteristics specific to the wires used. It is possible, for example, to make gloves with stripes including threads conductors, so as to avoid any discharge of static electricity when handling electronic components. The inclusion of a wire elasticity in these scratches can then compensate for stiffness largest of these regions, and thus maintain some comfort or certain holding of the fabric on the hand.
  • An article according to the invention may comprise one or more threads of elasticity, adjoining one or more background threads.
  • These ground strands can be made of any material normally used for the knitting of such tubular shaped articles.
  • these ground strands may include materials based on aramid, meta-aramid, para-aramid, PBO, PBI, polyester, polyamide, cotton, wool, glass thread, yarn metal, polypropylene, chlorofibers, polyethylene, polyolefins, acrylic, or viscose.
  • Bottom threads may comprise fibers of one or more materials intimately mixed, that is to say at the time of manufacture or preparing the yarn, before reeling and supplying the loom to knitting.
  • Bottom yarns such as yarns of elasticity
  • This assembly can join several ground wires together, or several threads of elasticity between them, or a mixture of threads and threads elasticity.
  • Yarns of elasticity as well as conventional yarns stocked by a conventional system can also be knitted by vanisage.
  • FIG. machine A machine according to the invention for knitting directly from such articles (9) of tubular form, is shown in FIG. machine, the one or more bottom wires (36) are unwound from reels (6) or coils gathered. These bottom wires (36) then pass through a docking station, where a clamp (5) for tension adjustment holds them sufficiently for their sufficient voltage, for example to prevent them from tangling.
  • ground wires then pass through a selected guiding device by elastic means, for example a spring steel wire having a ring at its end, and called the fisher system (4).
  • Bottom threads are then brought to the wire guide (3), which presents them together successively in front of each needle of the needle (1, 2).
  • This fisherman system presents a large range of motion that helps dampen variations in tensions in the ground wires, during wire calls due to the displacement (d3) of the wire or traction guide (d12) of each needle (12) on the wire during its movement cycle.
  • Such a docking station is able to maintain tension sufficient to prevent the threads from getting entangled or to ensure uniform size between the different stitches of a fabric.
  • this device does not provide a sufficiently constant voltage during operation to ensure a homogeneous distribution of the wire elastic in the fabric.
  • the invention provides an arrival circuit different from that which exists on such knitting machines.
  • the yarn (37) of elasticity is dispensed to the yarn guide (3) according to a determined and constant voltage by a wire supply device, said supplier (7).
  • This supplier comprises means for retaining the elastic thread, which are controlled by electronic processing means. These means of restraint are controlled so as to maintain a constant voltage and not zero in the yarn (37) of elasticity at the exit of the supplier (7).
  • This order can be done for example by a motor with constant effort or by a motor not in step with the tension of the output wire or the amplitude of the movements of the different pieces making the knitting.
  • This voltage can be programmed from digital way by entering a set value, through means of typed as a keyboard (not shown).
  • these retaining means comprise at least one minus one piece (72) of revolution on which the elastic thread is in contact without sliding, and whose movement is retained or controlled so as to vary the tension of the thread.
  • This contact without slip can for example be obtained by winding the elastic yarn in one or more turns (721) around this piece (72) of revolution.
  • the supplier has means (73) for detecting the output voltage of the wire, to which are enslaved the retaining means via the processing means.
  • the movements of these retaining means are enslaved to the movements of the knitting machine, for example depending on the movement of the thread guide.
  • the piece (72) of revolution is retained in its accompanying motion of the wire by an actuator or motor applying a constant angular force and regulated according to the value of entered instruction for the tension to be obtained.
  • the supplier has detection means connected (75) to control means adapted to trigger a stop of the knitting machine.
  • Vanisage is a known method of knitting, which consists in keeping a thread, said plaiting wire, in a position specific and distinct in relation to the ground wires, within the wire guide, for get this thread visible only on one side of the fabric.
  • Such a thread guide (3) to be vanished is represented in FIG. 5, and comprises two different passages for knitting yarns.
  • a passage (306) of ground wire has a duct of substantially circular section, while the passage 307) has the shape of an elongate shape in the direction of moving the wire guide and protruding on either side of the lead passage background.
  • the wire to be vanished (37) will be driven by its inertia at the end (307g, 307d) of the slot located behind the wire (36) background, regardless of the direction of travel.
  • This specific position at the exit of the thread guide for example behind the background wires in relation to the direction of travel of the carriage causing the wire guide, makes it possible for the needles to catch this vanishing wire always in the same position with respect to the background wire, for example by a specific and distinct part of the needle.
  • the vanishing wire may for example being folded down by the movable pallet (112) which closes the hook (111) of the needle, instead of going by itself inside the hook. Hanging the wire of vanishing by a part of the needle distinct from that hanging the wire of bottom, or at a different time, pulls the bottom thread and the plumbing wire always in the same position relative to each other. This particularity allows in particular to achieve an armor where the vanishing wire is visible only on one side of the fabric.
  • the thread elasticity by vanisage, for example turned inward of the form tubular. This makes it possible, for example, to keep the bottom wires turned towards outside, and thus to obtain on the outside of the article the desired aesthetic rendering when choosing these background wires.
  • the fact that elastic fibers are all on the same side of the fabric also allows for good sliding of mesh between them during the extension, which ensures a good flexibility and regularity to the fabric during its deformations.
  • the invention also proposes to modify certain settings of knitting looms specifically used for such items in the case of an insertion of elastic thread by vanisage.
  • the the distance between the needles (12, 13) and the vanishing wire guide constitutes a parameter set at the factory, which can affect the quality and regularity of the mesh.
  • the invention proposes to substantially reduce this distance.
  • the needle does not wear mesh "Previous” that can close the valve (112) of the needle on the wire elasticity (37).
  • the yarn of elasticity must be grasped only the hook of the needle, which requires a different setting, including particular a fine and maximum approach of the wire guide with respect to the advanced needles in work.
  • this restoring of the thread guide with respect to needles has been tested and will be quantified here for a knitting machine type Matsuya SGT (registered trademark), in gauge of 10 needles per inch and make articles up to sizes L and LL.
  • Matsuya SGT registered trademark
  • the distance modified will be defined by the free space, in the axis of the needles, between the outer surface of the plumbing wire guide and the upper edge (100) of the edge closer to the support (10) receiving the needles (11) of each needle bed (1), as illustrated in Figure 4.
  • the value of this distance is causing about 4.9 millimeters. In the experiments carried out, good results were obtained in reducing this distance to less than 4.5 mm, and in particular 4.3 mm.

Abstract

A knitted article (9) for wear on the hand or foot has at least two sections (910 - 915) that are knitted directly in tubular shape from a number of yarns, including a basic (36) yarn and an elastic (37) yarn of natural or artificial rubber, or a material with similar elasticity and deformation capacity, knitted in under a constant tension. The elastic yarn can be incorporated in certain sections of the article along, and the knit has a gauge of 3 - 16 needles per inch and can be a jersey or similar stitch. The knitting machine has a feeder (7) for the elastic yarn containing a retaining element (72) that responds to changes in tension.

Description

La présente invention concerne un procédé de tricotage de gants et articles similaires incluant des fibres élastiques dans leur texture, ainsi qu'un dispositif mettant en oeuvre le procédé et un produit obtenu par ce procédé.The present invention relates to a method of knitting gloves and similar articles including elastic fibers in their texture, as well as a device implementing the method and a product obtained by this method.

Les articles concernés par la présente invention sont des articles réalisés par tricotage d'une étoffe à partir d'un ou plusieurs fils. Ces articles peuvent présenter un mode de tricotage formant différents types « d'armures », c'est-à-dire de structure et d'organisation spatiale du ou des fils à l'intérieur de l'étoffe tricotée. Une des armures les plus courantes est par exemple celle appelée « jersey » et comporte de nombreux dérivés tricotés selon des variantes plus ou moins proches.The articles concerned by the present invention are articles made by knitting a fabric from one or more threads. These articles can present a knitting mode forming different types of "armor", that is, the structure and spatial organization of the thread or wires within the knitted fabric. One of the most common armor is for example the one called "jersey" and includes many knitted derivatives according to variants more or less close.

La présente invention s'applique à des articles tricotés de façon à obtenir une forme comprenant une ou plusieurs parties tubulaires obtenues directement lors du tricotage, c'est-à-dire sans qu'il soit besoin de refermer l'étoffe, par exemple par couture ou collage, pour obtenir cette forme tubulaire.The present invention applies to articles knitted so as to obtain a shape comprising one or more tubular parts obtained directly during knitting, that is to say without the need to close the fabric, for example by sewing or gluing, to obtain this tubular shape.

Des productions courantes entrant dans cette catégorie sont, en particulier, tous les types de chaussettes (94) ou bas ou moufles, lorsqu'ils sont réalisés sous forme tubulaire directement au tricotage.Current productions falling into this category are, in particular, all types of socks (94) or stockings or mittens, when they are made in tubular form directly to knitting.

D'autres productions de forme plus complexes entrant dans cette catégorie sont tous les types de gants (91) ou mitaines (92), ou chaussettes (95) à un ou plusieurs orteils séparés, lorsque au moins une partie tubulaire est réalisée en tant que telle directement au tricotage, par exemple pour former un doigt (911 à 915, 921 à 925) ou un orteil (951 à 955) ou un poignet (916, 926) ou un manchon (917), ou une manchette (93) avec doigt comme décrit dans le brevet FR 02 02572. Ces articles peuvent également comporter des manchons (917) ou parties tubulaires remontant plus ou moins loin sur le membre à couvrir, tels que des gants montants ou des bas ou collants à orteils séparés.Other more complex form productions coming into this category are all types of gloves (91) or mitts (92), or socks (95) with one or more separate toes, where at least a portion tubular is produced as such directly to knitting, for example to form a finger (911 to 915, 921 to 925) or a toe (951 to 955) or a wrist (916, 926) or a sleeve (917), or a cuff (93) with as described in patent FR 02 02572. These articles can also have sleeves (917) or tubular parts extending more or less far away on the limb to be covered, such as upright gloves or socks or separate toe tights.

De tels articles d'habillement peuvent être utilisés pour des raisons de confort ou d'esthétique, mais également comporter des fibres de caractéristiques techniques spécifiques pour des usages de protection, de sécurité, ou d'efficacité, en particulier dans le domaine industriel.Such articles of clothing may be used for reasons of comfort or aesthetics, but also include specific technical characteristics for protection, safety, or efficiency, especially in the industrial field.

Bien que concernant pour une grande part des articles d'habillement du corps humain ou animal, des articles similaires peuvent être utilisés pour revêtir des objets ou dispositifs variés, et entrent dans la catégorie concernée par l'invention dès lors qu'ils comportent des formes tubulaires tricotées susceptibles d'être réalisées par les mêmes types de machines.Although concerning a large part of the clothing items of the human or animal body, similar articles may be used to coat various objects or devices, and fall into the category concerned by the invention since they comprise tubular knitted shapes likely to be performed by the same types of machines.

Dans l'ensemble de la présente description, le terme de « article tricoté à formes tubulaires », ou « article de ganterie tricotée » sera ainsi utilisé pour désigner l'ensemble des articles spécifiés ci-dessus.Throughout this description, the term "knitted article tubular shapes ", or" knitted glove item "will thus be used for designate all the items specified above.

Dans le domaine de la fabrication d'articles de ganterie en fil tricoté, il est connu d'utiliser des machines, ou métiers à tricoter, spécifiques, qui permettent la réalisation d'une ou plusieurs formes tubulaires, en une opération continue. De tels articles peuvent comporter une seule forme tubulaire comme des chaussettes, ou plusieurs formes tubulaires comme des gants, des moufles, ou des chaussettes à orteils séparés. Ces différentes formes tubulaires peuvent éventuellement être réalisées séparément puis assemblées entre elles, ou réalisées de façon continue lors du tricotage. De tels articles peuvent également comprendre des prolongements réalisant par exemple une manchette ou une manche, couvrant tout ou partie du membre revêtu, par exemple l'avant-bras ou le bras. De tels manchons peuvent être réalisés en tant que prolongements intégrés à des gants ou constituer des articles séparés utilisables en eux-même.In the field of the manufacture of knitted yarn goods, it is is known to use machines, or knitting machines, specific, which allow the realization of one or more tubular shapes, in one operation keep on going. Such articles may have a single tubular shape as socks, or several tubular forms such as gloves, mittens, or socks with separate toes. These different forms tubulars can optionally be made separately and then assembled between them, or carried out continuously during knitting. Such articles may also include extensions making for example a cuff or sleeve, covering all or part of the coated limb, by example the forearm or the arm. Such sleeves can be made in as integral extensions to gloves or as separate articles usable in themselves.

Les machines réalisant des opérations de tricotage, telles qu'expliqué par la suite en référence aux figures, sont appelées métiers à tricoter rectilignes, et sont très spécialement adaptées à ce type de forme. Ce type de métier est spécialisé au point que certaines machines sont par exemple spécialement prévues pour tricoter en parallèle les deux articles d'une même paire de gants. Ces machines peuvent souvent être directement paramétrées pour choisir la taille de l'article à produire, de façon à réaliser au choix n'importe laquelle des différentes tailles d'un même modèle d'article. Machines performing knitting operations, as explained subsequently with reference to the figures, are called knitting looms rectilinear, and are very specially adapted to this type of shape. This kind of profession is specialized to the point that some machines are for example specially designed to knit in parallel the two articles of the same pair of gloves. These machines can often be directly parameterized to choose the size of the article to be produced, so as to make any choice which different sizes of the same article model.

Ces machines ont également été perfectionnées et adaptées de façon spécifique pour pouvoir réaliser une forme complexe en une opération continue. Par exemple pour la réalisation d'un gant (91), les formes (912 à 915) tubulaires des différents doigts sont réalisées séparément mais sur la même machine à partir de l'extrémité, puis réunies entre elles une fois leur longueur suffisante, pour passer du tricotage des quatre doigts séparés au tricotage de la paume, puis réunir celle-ci avec le pouce (911) pour former la grande paume (910) puis le poignet (916). Un tel mode de tricotage est en particulier décrit dans le brevet FR 02 02572.These machines have also been perfected and adapted so specific to achieve a complex shape in one operation keep on going. For example for producing a glove (91), the shapes (912 to 915) tubulars of the different fingers are made separately but on the same machine from the end, then joined together once their length enough to switch from knitting the four separate fingers to knitting the palm, then join it with the thumb (911) to form the large palm (910) then the wrist (916). Such a mode of knitting is in particular described in patent FR 02 02572.

Dans de telles machines, le fil accroché par les aiguilles est dévidé d'une bobine en position verticale. Ce fil passe alors par un poste d'embarrage, où il est pincé par des moyens mécaniques de façon à maintenir une tension suffisante. Ce fil passe alors à travers un dispositif de rappel appelé système « pêcheur », qui amortit les variations de tension se produisant lors des appels de fil, par les aiguilles à chaque changement de direction du chariot de tricotage. Le fil passe alors par un guide-fil monté sur un système coulissant entraíné par un chariot qui le guide devant les aiguilles de chaque fonture, au fur et à mesure de l'avancement du tricotage.In such machines, the thread hooked by the needles is unwound a coil in a vertical position. This wire then passes through a berth, where it is pinched by mechanical means so as to maintain tension sufficient. This wire then passes through a callback device called system "Fisherman", which dampens the variations in voltage occurring during calls of thread, by the needles at each change of direction of the carriage of knitting. The wire then passes through a wire guide mounted on a sliding system led by a cart that guides it in front of the needles of each needle, at the as the knitting progresses.

Selon les produits à fabriquer, plusieurs fils peuvent être dévidés de plusieurs bobines, et amenés de la même façon jusqu'au guide-fil pour être pris ensemble par les aiguilles. Certains de ces fils peuvent également être pris seulement par certaines aiguilles, par exemple pour réaliser un bord ou une zone présentant des côtes, en insérant un fil élastique pris par une aiguille sur trois, ou pour réaliser différents effets de maille dans la texture du tricot obtenu.Depending on the products to be manufactured, several threads can be unwound from several reels, and brought in the same way to the guide-wire to be taken together by the needles. Some of these threads can also be taken only by some needles, for example to make an edge or a zone with ribs, inserting an elastic thread taken by a needle on three, or to achieve different mesh effects in the texture of the knit obtained.

Certains de ces fils peuvent également être guidés par un guide-fil à « vaniser », de façon à n'apparaítre que d'un seul côté de la texture obtenue, par exemple pour des raisons de confort ou d'esthétique.Some of these threads may also be guided by a thread guide at "To vanish", so as to appear only on one side of the texture obtained, for example for reasons of comfort or aesthetics.

Avec un métier à tricoter rectiligne, tels qu'utilisés couramment pour réaliser de tels articles de ganterie tricotés, il est possible d'utiliser un ou plusieurs fils, dits fils de fond, tricotés ensemble par des lits d'aiguilles en vis à vis. Ces aiguilles sont soutenues et guidées dans des rainures parallèles formées à la surface d'un support, l'ensemble constituant une « fonture ». With a straight knitting machine, as commonly used for make such knitted glove items, it is possible to use one or several threads, called bottom threads, knitted together by needle beds screwed to screw. These needles are supported and guided in parallel grooves formed on the surface of a support, the assembly constituting a "needle bed".

Dans de nombreuses applications, il est possible à certains fils de n'être accrochés que par une partie des aiguilles de chaque fonture, alors que d'autres fils de fond seront accrochés par d'autres aiguilles ou par toutes. En utilisant un fil de fond de laine ou assimilé et un fil doté d'une certaine élasticité, il est alors possible de réaliser une étoffe dont certaines régions présentent des côtes autorisant une déformation élastique de l'étoffe par extension perpendiculairement aux côtes. Une telle technique est utilisée en particulier pour permettre à certaines parties d'un vêtement d'être resserrées sur le membre à revêtir, dans le but de maintenir le vêtement en place. Un bord présentant de telles côtes est couramment réalisé à l'extrémité d'une chaussette ou d'un gant. De telles côtes sont réalisées en utilisant un fil de fond élastique, accroché par seulement certaines aiguilles, par exemple à raison d'une sur trois.In many applications, it is possible for some children to to be hooked only by a part of the needles of each needle bed, while other ground wires will be hung by other needles or by all. In using a wool yarn or the like and a yarn with a certain elasticity, it is then possible to produce a fabric which some regions have ribs allowing elastic deformation of the fabric by extension perpendicular to the ribs. Such a technique is used in particular to allow certain parts of a garment to be tightened on the to wear, in order to keep the garment in place. A board with such ribs is commonly performed at the end of a sock or glove. Such ribs are made using a background wire elastic, hooked by only certain needles, for example because one in three.

Or de tels fils sont le plus souvent assez épais et gainés ou « guipés» dans une tresse de fibre non élastique, et d'un aspect peu esthétique. De plus le tricotage en côtes donne une élasticité dans une seule direction, assortie d'une épaisseur importante du textile et d'une faible souplesse.Gold such son are usually quite thick and sheathed or "gimped" in a non-elastic fiber braid, and an unsightly appearance. Moreover Rib knitting gives elasticity in one direction, matching a large thickness of the textile and low flexibility.

Un des buts de l'invention est de proposer des articles tricotés présentant une élasticité plus uniforme dans leur structure, ou d'une meilleure souplesse et d'un aspect inchangé, pour pouvoir réaliser des articles plus confortables et bénéficier d'un plus grand choix d'aspect en matière d'esthétique.One of the aims of the invention is to propose knitted articles having a more uniform elasticity in their structure, or better flexibility and an unchanged appearance, to be able to make more articles comfortable and benefit from a greater choice of aesthetics.

Pour satisfaire la clientèle d'un d'article donné, il est le plus souvent nécessaire de fabriquer et commercialiser différentes tailles du même article. Cette variété de tailles oblige à changer un certain nombre de réglages lors de la fabrication. Cette variété oblige également à référencer et stocker plus d'articles que si le nombre de tailles nécessaires était moins important, ce qui constitue un coût à tous les stades depuis la conception et la fabrication jusqu'à la vente au client final.To satisfy the customer of a given article, it is most often necessary to manufacture and market different sizes of the same item. This variety of sizes makes it necessary to change a number of settings when the making. This variety also requires to reference and store more more articles than if the number of sizes needed was smaller, which is a cost at all stages from design and manufacture to the sale to the end customer.

Un des buts de l'invention est de proposer des articles tricotés présentant une plus grande élasticité dans la structure même de leur étoffe, permettant ainsi de réduire le nombre de tailles à produire et/ou stocker pour un même modèle d'article.One of the aims of the invention is to propose knitted articles having a greater elasticity in the structure of their fabric, thereby reducing the number of sizes to be produced and / or stored for the same article template.

Ces buts sont atteints par un article tricoté destiné à vêtir la main ou le pied, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte au moins deux parties tubulaires tricotées directement sous leur forme tubulaire à partir d'une pluralité de fils comprenant au moins un premier fil, dit fil de fond, et un deuxième fil, dit fil d'élasticité, inséré selon une tension non-nulle et sensiblement constante, le fil d'élasticité étant réalisé à partir de caoutchouc naturel ou artificiel ou d'élasthanne ou d'un matériau présentant une élasticité et une capacité de déformation similaire.These goals are achieved by a knitted article intended to clothe the hand or foot, characterized in that it comprises at least two tubular knitted parts directly in their tubular form from a plurality of wires comprising at least a first wire, called a ground wire, and a second wire, called a wire of elasticity, inserted according to a non-zero tension and substantially constant, the elastic thread being made from natural or artificial rubber or elastane or a material having similar elasticity and deformability.

Selon une particularité, le fil d'élasticité n'est inclus que dans certaines régions de l'article tricoté.According to one feature, the elasticity thread is included only in certain regions of the knitted article.

Selon une particularité, le fil d'élasticité est un fil d'élasthanne non gainé, vanisé lors du tricotage.According to one feature, the elastic yarn is a non-elastane yarn sheathed, vanished during knitting.

Selon une particularité, l'article est tricoté selon une jauge comprise entre 3 et 16 aiguilles par pouce.According to a feature, the article is knitted according to a gauge included between 3 and 16 needles per inch.

Selon une particularité, l'article est tricoté selon une armure en jersey ou dérivée de cette armure.According to one feature, the article is knitted in a jersey weave or derived from this armor.

Selon une particularité, l'article réalise une pièce d'habillement destinée à recouvrir la main ou le pied, et présentant au moins deux parties de formes tubulaires se rejoignant en au moins une partie pour former une partie tubulaire communiquant avec ces deux parties tubulaires.According to one feature, the article makes a piece of clothing intended to cover the hand or the foot, and having at least two parts of forms tubular joining in at least a portion to form a tubular portion communicating with these two tubular parts.

Selon une particularité, l'article présente la forme d'un gant, ou d'une mitaine, ou d'une chaussette ou bas, l'article comportant au moins deux doigts séparés.According to one feature, the article has the shape of a glove, or a mitten, or a sock or stocking, the article having at least two fingers separated.

De plus, il est connu d'insérer dans la structure d'un textile des fibres élastiques pour leur donner une certaine élasticité, mais ces techniques ne sont pas adaptables en l'état aux machines à tricoter utilisées pour réaliser de tels articles à formes tubulaires.In addition, it is known to insert into the structure of a textile fibers elastics to give them some elasticity, but these techniques are only not adaptable as is to the knitting machines used to produce such tubular shaped articles.

Un autre but de l'invention est de proposer un dispositif de tricotage d'articles de ganterie ou de chausserie à formes tubulaires permettant la réalisation d'articles présentant une élasticité améliorée de la structure même de leur tricot. Another object of the invention is to propose a knitting device glove-making or tubular-style making articles with improved elasticity of the structure itself of their knitting.

Ce but est atteint par un dispositif de tricotage d'articles à formes tubulaires, comportant des moyens de fourniture d'au moins un fil, dit fil de fond, depuis une source de fil jusqu'à un guide-fil mobile, lequel présente ce fil à proximité des extrémités d'une succession d'aiguilles alignées de façon parallèle et coplanaire en deux lits d'aiguilles disposés l'un en face de l'autre et portés chacun par une fonture pour permettre le tricotage d'une face des formes tubulaires, chacune de ces aiguilles pouvant se déplacer le long de son axe longitudinal pour saisir ce fil dans des moyens d'accrochage et le ramener en arrière au cours d'un appel de fil, en le passant au travers d'une boucle de fil précédemment formée autour de cette aiguille, formant ainsi une nouvelle boucle dépassant de la précédente, puis en le libérant des moyens d'accrochage et pour glisser cette même aiguille au travers de cette nouvelle boucle, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte des moyens de fourniture, dit fournisseur, d'au moins un fil d'élasticité, en élasthanne ou caoutchouc naturel ou artificiel ou d'un matériau de caractéristiques mécaniques similaires, depuis une source de fil d'élasticité jusqu'au guide-fil pour que ce fil d'élasticité soit saisi par tout ou partie des aiguilles en même temps qu'au moins un fil de fond, le guide-fil étant rendu mobile sur un chariot assurant le passage devant chacun des deux lits d'aiguilles pour assurer la continuité entre les deux faces des formes tubulaires tricotées, le fournisseur laissant échapper le fil d'élasticité vers le guide-fil en lui appliquant une tension non nulle et sensiblement constante pendant et entre les opérations successives d'appel de fil subies par ce fil d'élasticité.This goal is achieved by a knitting device of shaped articles tubular, comprising means for supplying at least one wire, bottom, from a wire source to a movable wire guide, which presents this wire near the ends of a succession of needles aligned so parallel and coplanar in two needle beds arranged opposite each other and each carried by a needle bed to allow the knitting of one side of tubular shapes, each of these needles being able to move along its longitudinal axis for gripping this thread in fastening means and bringing it back back during a wire call, passing it through a loop of wire previously formed around this needle, thus forming a new loop overtaking the previous one and then releasing it from the means snap and slide this same needle through this new loop, characterized in that it comprises supply means, said supplier, of at least one yarn of elasticity, spandex or natural rubber or artificial or a material with similar mechanical characteristics, since a source of yarn of elasticity up to the yarn guide for this yarn of elasticity to be grasped by all or some of the needles together with at least one ground wire, the wire guide being made mobile on a carriage ensuring the passage in front of each of the two needle beds to ensure continuity between the two faces knitted tubular shapes, the supplier letting out the thread elasticity towards the wire guide by applying a non-zero tension and substantially constant during and between successive calls for wire undergone by this elastic thread.

Selon une particularité, le fournisseur comporte des moyens de retenue du fil d'élasticité, ces moyens de retenue étant commandés par des moyens de commande réagissant au mouvement des aiguilles, ou du guide-fil, ou de moyens de mesure de la tension dans le fil d'élasticité ou dans au moins un fil de fond.According to a particularity, the supplier comprises means of restraint of the elastic thread, these retaining means being controlled by means of control responsive to the movement of the needles, or the wire guide, or means for measuring the tension in the elastic thread or in at least one thread background.

Selon une particularité, les moyens de retenue comportent un mécanisme de retenue au contact du fil d'élasticité et se déplaçant simultanément avec lui et sans glissement, le déplacement de ce mécanisme de retenue étant asservi à une valeur de consigne à obtenir pour la tension de ce fil d'élasticité en aval du fournisseur.According to a particularity, the retaining means comprise a retainer mechanism in contact with the elasticity wire and moving simultaneously with it and without slippage, moving this mechanism retaining device being controlled by a set value to be obtained for the voltage of this elastic yarn downstream of the supplier.

Selon une particularité, le mouvement du mécanisme de retenue est régulé par des moyens de régulation réagissant pour maintenir une tension sensiblement constante dans le fil d'élasticité à la sortie du fournisseur.According to one feature, the movement of the holding mechanism is regulated by regulating means responsive to maintain a voltage substantially constant in the elastic wire at the output of the supplier.

Selon une particularité, le dispositif comporte des moyens de détection de casse ou de baisse de tension du fil d'élasticité entre la sortie du fournisseur et le guide-fil, ces moyens de détection étant utilisés par des moyens de commande pour commander l'arrêt du tricotage lorsque le fil d'élasticité est rompu ou que sa tension baisse en dessous d'une valeur déterminée.According to one feature, the device comprises detection means breakage or drop in tension of the elastic thread between the supplier's exit and the wire guide, these detection means being used by means of command to control the stopping of the knitting when the elastic yarn is broken or that its voltage drops below a certain value.

Selon une particularité, le dispositif comporte des moyens de saisie d'au moins une donnée informatique ou électronique représentant une valeur de consigne pour les moyens de régulation agissant au sein du fournisseur pour réguler la tension du fil d'élasticité.According to one feature, the device comprises input means at least one computer or electronic data representing a value set point for regulating means acting within the supplier to regulate the tension of the elastic thread.

Un autre but de l'invention est de proposer un procédé permettant la réalisation, par un métier à tricoter rectiligne, d'articles présentant une élasticité améliorée de la structure même du tricot.Another object of the invention is to propose a method allowing the producing, by a straight knitting machine, articles having elasticity improved the structure of the knitting.

Ce but est atteint par un procédé de tricotage d'articles à formes tubulaires par au moins un lit d'aiguilles parallèles entre elles tricotant au moins un fil de fond, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte la fourniture d'au moins un fil d'élasticité, en élasthanne ou caoutchouc naturel ou artificiel ou d'un matériau de caractéristiques mécaniques similaires, par des moyens de fourniture, dits fournisseur, à partir d'une source de fil d'élasticité et jusqu'à un guide-fil se déplaçant à proximité des extrémités d'aiguilles parallèles et coplanaires, les aiguilles appartenant à deux lits d'aiguilles disposés l'un en face de l'autre et desservis par le guide-fil mobile sur un chariot de façon à assurer la continuité du tricotage de deux faces opposées des formes tubulaires, au moins une partie de ces aiguilles saisissant le fil d'élasticité et au moins un fil de fond en un même cycle de mouvement pour constituer une nouvelle boucle en ramenant ces fils à travers une autre boucle précédemment formée de la même façon, ce fil d'élasticité étant dispensé à la sortie du fournisseur en conservant une tension non nulle et sensiblement constante. This goal is achieved by a process of knitting shaped articles tubular by at least one bed of needles parallel to each other knitting at least a ground wire, characterized in that it comprises the provision of at least one wire of elasticity, made of elastane or natural or artificial rubber or a material similar mechanical characteristics, by means of supply, so-called supplier, from a source of yarn and up to a thread guide moving near the ends of parallel and coplanar needles, the needles belonging to two needles beds arranged opposite each other and served by the mobile wire guide on a trolley to ensure continuity knitting of two opposite faces of the tubular shapes, at least one part of these needles grasping the elastic thread and at least one ground wire in the same cycle of movement to constitute a new loop in bringing these threads through another loop previously formed of the same way, this elastic thread being dispensed at the exit of the supplier in maintaining a non-zero voltage and substantially constant.

Selon une particularité, la tension dans le fil d'élasticité est maintenue à une valeur allant de 2 grammes à 6 grammes.According to one feature, the tension in the elastic thread is maintained at a value ranging from 2 grams to 6 grams.

Selon une particularité, le fil d'élasticité est présenté devant les aiguilles par un guide-fil de vanisage, la position du fil d'élasticité par rapport au fil de fond devant les aiguilles permettant d'obtenir une étoffe où l'un de ces deux fils apparaít majoritairement sur une face, l'autre fil apparaissant majoritairement sur l'autre face.According to one feature, the elastic thread is presented in front of the needles a guide wire, the position of the elastic wire relative to the wire of bottom in front of the needles to obtain a fabric where one of these two son appears mainly on one side, the other thread appearing predominantly on the other side.

Selon une particularité, le fil d'élasticité est présenté devant les aiguilles par un guide-fil de vanisage, ce guide-fil de vanisage étant positionné de façon à laisser une distance maximale de 4.3 mm, selon l'axe des aiguilles, entre le guide-fil et les dents formées par l'arête supérieure du support de fonture portant les aiguilles.According to one feature, the elastic thread is presented in front of the needles by a trimming wire guide, this trimming wire guide being positioned so to leave a maximum distance of 4.3 mm, according to the axis of the needles, between the wire guide and the teeth formed by the upper edge of the needle bed support carrying the needles.

La description des types d'articles concernés par l'invention, ainsi que de l'art antérieur et des caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention, se réfère aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :

  • la figure 1 représente une vue partielle en éclaté d'un dispositif selon l'invention comprenant un fournisseur à tension constante alimenté en fil élasthanne ;
  • la figure 2 représente un détail du mode de tricotage en armure jersey dans le cas d'un seul fil de fond et sans vanisage ;
  • les figures 3a à 3e représentent des exemples de types d'articles à formes tubulaires réalisables selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 4 représente une vue, en extrémité, des deux fontures et du guide-fil à vaniser ;
  • la figure 5 représente une vue en perspective d'un guide-fil à vaniser.
The description of the types of articles concerned by the invention, as well as the prior art and features and advantages of the invention, refers to the appended drawings, in which:
  • FIG. 1 represents an exploded partial view of a device according to the invention comprising a constant-voltage supplier powered by elastane yarn;
  • Figure 2 shows a detail of the knitting mode in jersey weave in the case of a single thread and without lapping;
  • FIGS. 3a to 3e show examples of types of articles with tubular shapes that can be produced according to the invention;
  • FIG. 4 represents a view, at the end, of the two needle beds and the guide wire to be vanished;
  • Figure 5 shows a perspective view of a guide wire to be vanished.

Le principe du tricotage sera tout d'abord décrit, de façon à faciliter la compréhension de l'ensemble.The principle of knitting will first be described, in order to facilitate the understanding of the whole.

Ainsi qu'illustré en figure 1, une machine spécialisée fonctionnant selon l'invention réalise un article (9) de forme tubulaire en utilisant deux lits d'aiguilles, ou fontures (1, 2), les aiguilles étant parallèles et coplanaires entre elles au sein d'une même fonture. Ces deux lits d'aiguilles, ou fontures, sont de type rectiligne et disposés l'un en face de l'autre, souvent selon un angle de 90° entre les plans des deux fontures, l'extrémité des aiguilles étant dirigée vers le centre et vers le haut. Ces aiguilles tricotent en une opération continue les deux faces d'une forme (9) tubulaire aplatie, tout en assurant une continuité entre les deux extrémités de ces deux lits d'aiguilles. Pour cela, le tricotage se fait en faisant courir devant les aiguilles (11, 12, 13) un fil (36) entraíné par un chariot guide-fil (3), que chaque aiguille (11) vient accrocher à son tour dans un crochet (111) situé à son extrémité, en avançant (d11) le long de son axe longitudinal. Le crochet (111) peut être fermé par des moyens de fermeture comme une palette (112). Une fois qu'elle a accroché le fil, l'aiguille (12) se recule (d12) en s'éloignant du trajet du chariot, et ramène ainsi le fil (36) à travers une ancienne boucle (m121), ou maille, formée autour de cette même aiguille et appartenant à une rangée précédente réalisée lors d'un précédent passage du fil. Le fil attiré à travers cette ancienne boucle (m121) forme alors une nouvelle boucle (m122), à travers laquelle l'aiguille se glisse lorsqu'elle revient à sa position (13) de repos après avoir libéré le fil des moyens d'accrochage.As illustrated in FIG. 1, a specialized machine operating according to the invention realizes an article (9) of tubular shape using two beds needles, or needle beds (1, 2), the needles being parallel and coplanar between they are in the same bed. These two needle beds, or needle beds, are rectilinear type and arranged opposite each other, often at an angle of 90 ° between the planes of the two needle beds, the ends of the needles being directed towards the center and upwards. These needles knit in one continuous operation both sides of a flattened tubular shape (9), while ensuring continuity between the two ends of these two needle beds. For this, knitting is made by running in front of the needles (11, 12, 13) a wire (36) driven by a wire-guide trolley (3), which each needle (11) hangs in turn in a hook (111) at its end, advancing (d11) along its axis longitudinal. The hook (111) can be closed by closure means like a palette (112). Once she has hooked the thread, the needle (12) back (d12) away from the carriage path, and thus returns the wire (36) to through an old loop (m121), or mesh, formed around this same needle and belonging to a previous row made in a previous passage of the wire. The wire drawn through this old loop (m121) then forms a new loop (m122), through which the needle slips when it returns to its position (13) of rest after having released the means wire hooking.

La continuité entre les deux faces de la forme tubulaire est assurée par exemple par le passage continu et successif du fil devant les deux lits d'aiguilles, guidé en cela par un guide-fil (3) mobile sur un chariot. La saisie du fil par une dernière aiguille d'une fonture est alors suivie par la saisie du fil par une aiguille lui faisant face dans l'autre fonture, qui devient ainsi la première aiguille de cette autre fonture lors de ce nouveau passage.The continuity between the two faces of the tubular form is ensured by example by the continuous and successive passage of the thread in front of the two beds of needles, guided in this by a wire guide (3) movable on a carriage. The seizure of thread by a last needle of a needle bed is then followed by the seizure of the thread by a needle facing him in the other needle bed, which becomes the first needle of this other needle bed during this new passage.

Lors du tricotage de tels articles à formes tubulaires, l'invention propose d'intégrer un ou plusieurs fils (37) élastiques directement dans la maille principale, assemblés avec le fil de fond ou vanisés lors du tricotage. En amenant au guide-fil, en même temps que le ou les fils de fond, un tel fil élastique maintenu sous une certaine tension, l'invention permet de réaliser un article (91 à 95 ; figures 3a à 3e) tubulaire présentant une grande élasticité selon une structure extrêmement uniforme, tout en tricotant directement tout ou partie de l'article dans sa forme définitive.When knitting such tubular articles, the invention proposes to integrate one or more elastic threads (37) directly into the main mesh, assembled with the background wire or vanished during knitting. In bringing to the thread guide, along with the thread or threads, such a thread elastic tension maintained under a certain tension, the invention makes it possible to article (91 to 95; FIGS. 3a to 3e) tubular having high elasticity according to an extremely uniform structure, while knitting directly all or part of the article in its final form.

Un tel fil élastique, dit fil (37) d'élasticité, est formé d'au moins une fibre d'élasthanne, ou de caoutchouc naturel, ou d'un matériau aux caractéristiques d'élasticité et de déformation similaires. Selon les applications et la taille ou les possibilités de déformation souhaitées pour l'article fini, ce fil d'élasticité peut être choisi de différentes épaisseurs, ou titrages. Dans le mode de réalisation décrit ici et pour les essais réalisés par l'inventeur, ce titrage peut être compris dans une plage allant de 28 000m/kg à 50 000m/kg ou dans une plage allant de 22 décitex à 150 décitex.Such an elastic thread, called elastic thread (37), is formed of at least one fiber elastane, or natural rubber, or a material with the characteristics similar elasticity and deformation. Depending on the applications and size or desired deformation possibilities for the finished article, this elastic yarn can be chosen from different thicknesses, or titrations. In the embodiment described here and for the tests carried out by the inventor, this titration can be understood in a range from 28,000m / kg to 50,000m / kg or in a range from from 22 decitex to 150 decitex.

Un article selon l'invention est ainsi un article tricoté comportant une ou plusieurs partie tubulaires tricotées directement sous leur forme tubulaire, et comportant un fil élasticité inclus sous une tension non nulle et sensiblement constante dans tout ou partie de l'étoffe. Un tel article peut en particulier comporter un tel fil d'élasticité seulement certaines régions. Ces régions peuvent être choisies réalisées pour obtenir des renforts dans certaines parties, par exemple sous forme de rayures ou de zones localisées. Ces régions peuvent être réalisées pour des raisons de solidité, de confort, d'étanchéité, ou en fonctions de caractéristiques spécifiques aux fils employés. Il est possible, par exemple, de réaliser des gants comportant des rayures incluant des fils conducteurs d'électricité, de façon à éviter toute décharge d'électricité statique lors de la manipulation de composants électroniques. L'inclusion d'un fil d'élasticité dans ces rayures peut alors permettre de compenser une raideur plus importante de ces régions, et conserver ainsi un certain confort ou une certaine tenue de l'étoffe sur la main.An article according to the invention is thus a knitted article comprising one or several tubular portions knitted directly in their tubular form, and having an elasticity thread included at a non-zero tension and substantially constant in all or part of the fabric. Such an article can in particular include such a thread of elasticity only certain regions. These regions can be chosen made to get reinforcements in some parts, for example in the form of stripes or localized areas. These regions can be made for reasons of strength, comfort, sealing, or according to characteristics specific to the wires used. It is possible, for example, to make gloves with stripes including threads conductors, so as to avoid any discharge of static electricity when handling electronic components. The inclusion of a wire elasticity in these scratches can then compensate for stiffness largest of these regions, and thus maintain some comfort or certain holding of the fabric on the hand.

Ces régions peuvent également être réalisées pour des raisons d'esthétique, pour obtenir un aspect différent de l'étoffe dans ces régions, ou pour obtenir une déformation de l'étoffe produisant un certain effet de forme ou de texture, par exemple des fronces ou un plissé.These areas can also be realized for reasons aesthetics, to obtain a different aspect of the fabric in these regions, or to obtain a deformation of the fabric producing a certain effect of form or texture, for example puckering or pleating.

Un article selon l'invention peut comporter un ou plusieurs fils d'élasticité, adjoint à un ou plusieurs fils de fond. Ces fils de fond peuvent être constitués de toute matière habituellement utilisée pour le tricotage de tels articles à formes tubulaires. Ces fils de fond peuvent en particulier inclure des matières à base d'aramide, de méta-aramide, de para-aramide, de PBO, de PBI, de polyester, de polyamide, de coton, de laine, de fil de verre, de fil métallique, de polypropylène, de chlorofibres, de polyéthylène, de polyoléfines, d'acrylique, ou de viscose.An article according to the invention may comprise one or more threads of elasticity, adjoining one or more background threads. These ground strands can be made of any material normally used for the knitting of such tubular shaped articles. In particular, these ground strands may include materials based on aramid, meta-aramid, para-aramid, PBO, PBI, polyester, polyamide, cotton, wool, glass thread, yarn metal, polypropylene, chlorofibers, polyethylene, polyolefins, acrylic, or viscose.

Les fils de fond peuvent comprendre des fibres d'une ou plusieurs matières mélangées intimement, c'est-à-dire lors de la fabrication ou d'une préparation du fil, avant mise en bobine et approvisionnement du métier à tricoter.Bottom threads may comprise fibers of one or more materials intimately mixed, that is to say at the time of manufacture or preparing the yarn, before reeling and supplying the loom to knitting.

Les fils de fond, comme les fils d'élasticité, peuvent également être assemblés ou retordus lors du tricotage, c'est-à-dire approvisionnés à partir de bobines différentes mais assemblés avant tricotage, avant le guide-fil ou dans le guide-fil. Cet assemblage peut réunir plusieurs fils de fond entre eux, ou plusieurs fils d'élasticité entre eux, ou un mélange de fils de fond et de fils d'élasticité.Bottom yarns, such as yarns of elasticity, can also be assembled or twisted during knitting, that is to say, supplied from different bobbins but assembled before knitting, before the thread guide or in the guide-wire. This assembly can join several ground wires together, or several threads of elasticity between them, or a mixture of threads and threads elasticity.

Les fils d'élasticité ainsi que des fils classiques approvisionnés par un système classique peuvent également être tricotés par vanisage.Yarns of elasticity as well as conventional yarns stocked by a conventional system can also be knitted by vanisage.

Une machine selon l'invention, permettant de tricoter directement de tels articles (9) de forme tubulaire, est représentée en figure 1. Dans une telle machine, le ou les fils (36) de fond sont dévidés à partir de bobines (6) ou bobinots réunis. Ces fils (36) de fond passent alors par un poste d'embarrage, où une pince (5) de réglage de tension les retient suffisamment pour leur donner une tension suffisante, par exemple pour éviter qu'ils ne risquent de s'emmêler.A machine according to the invention for knitting directly from such articles (9) of tubular form, is shown in FIG. machine, the one or more bottom wires (36) are unwound from reels (6) or coils gathered. These bottom wires (36) then pass through a docking station, where a clamp (5) for tension adjustment holds them sufficiently for their sufficient voltage, for example to prevent them from tangling.

Les fils de fond passent alors à travers un dispositif de guidage retenu par des moyens élastiques, par exemple un fil d'acier à ressort comportant un anneau à son extrémité, et appelé système pêcheur (4). Les fils de fond sont alors amenés jusqu'au guide-fil (3), qui les présente ensemble successivement devant chacune des aiguilles des fontures (1, 2). Ce système pêcheur présente une grande amplitude de mouvement qui permet d'amortir les variations de tensions dans les fils de fond, lors des appels de fil dus au déplacement (d3) du guide-fil ou à la traction (d12) de chaque aiguille (12) sur le fil au cours de son cycle de mouvement.The ground wires then pass through a selected guiding device by elastic means, for example a spring steel wire having a ring at its end, and called the fisher system (4). Bottom threads are then brought to the wire guide (3), which presents them together successively in front of each needle of the needle (1, 2). This fisherman system presents a large range of motion that helps dampen variations in tensions in the ground wires, during wire calls due to the displacement (d3) of the wire or traction guide (d12) of each needle (12) on the wire during its movement cycle.

Un tel poste d'embarrage est capable de maintenir une tension suffisante pour éviter que les fils ne s'emmêlent ou assurer une taille uniforme entre les différentes mailles d'une étoffe. Toutefois, lorsque l'on essaie de remplacer un fil de fond par un fil d'élasticité, on constate de façon évidente que ce dispositif ne permet pas d'obtenir une tension suffisamment constante au cours du fonctionnement pour assurer une distribution homogène du fil élastique dans l'étoffe.Such a docking station is able to maintain tension sufficient to prevent the threads from getting entangled or to ensure uniform size between the different stitches of a fabric. However, when we try to replace a ground wire with a wire of elasticity, one can see clearly that this device does not provide a sufficiently constant voltage during operation to ensure a homogeneous distribution of the wire elastic in the fabric.

De même, la régularité varie de façon peu prévisible lorsque l'on change la tension moyenne dans le fil. De plus, un tel système de retenue par frottement dans une pince est peu stable en fonction des conditions atmosphériques et de la composition ou de l'état de surface de la fibre élastique. Ce système d'embarrage ne permet donc pas de déterminer de façon précise une valeur quantifiée pour la tension, non plus que de garder un même réglage sur une période de temps importante.In the same way, the regularity varies in a way that is unpredictable when one changes the average voltage in the wire. In addition, such a restraint system friction in a clamp is unstable depending on the conditions atmospheric and the composition or surface condition of the fiber elastic. This docking system therefore does not make it possible to determine precise way a quantified value for the tension, as well as to keep a same setting over a long period of time.

Pour obtenir une régularité et une précision suffisante dans la tension du fil (37) d'élasticité, l'invention prévoit un circuit d'arrivée différent de ce qui existe sur de tels métiers à tricoter. Dans le mode de réalisation expérimenté par l'inventeur, le fil (37) d'élasticité est dispensé au guide-fil (3) selon une tension déterminée et constante par un dispositif de fourniture de fil, dit fournisseur (7).To obtain a regularity and a sufficient precision in the tension of the yarn (37) of elasticity, the invention provides an arrival circuit different from that which exists on such knitting machines. In the experimented embodiment by the inventor, the yarn (37) of elasticity is dispensed to the yarn guide (3) according to a determined and constant voltage by a wire supply device, said supplier (7).

Ce fournisseur comporte des moyens de retenue du fil élastique, qui sont pilotés par des moyens de traitement électronique. Ces moyens de retenue sont commandés de façon à maintenir une tension constante et non nulle dans le fil (37) d'élasticité à la sortie du fournisseur (7). Cette commande peut se faire par exemple par un moteur à effort constant ou par un moteur pas à pas asservi à la tension du fil en sortie ou à l'amplitude des mouvements des différentes pièces réalisant le tricotage. Cette tension peut être programmée de façon numérique par saisie d'une valeur de consigne, à travers des moyens de saisie comme un clavier (non représenté). This supplier comprises means for retaining the elastic thread, which are controlled by electronic processing means. These means of restraint are controlled so as to maintain a constant voltage and not zero in the yarn (37) of elasticity at the exit of the supplier (7). This order can be done for example by a motor with constant effort or by a motor not in step with the tension of the output wire or the amplitude of the movements of the different pieces making the knitting. This voltage can be programmed from digital way by entering a set value, through means of typed as a keyboard (not shown).

Dans un mode de réalisation, ces moyens de retenue comportent au moins une pièce (72) de révolution sur laquelle le fil élastique est en contact sans glissement, et dont le mouvement est retenu ou commandé de façon à faire varier la tension du fil. Ce contact sans glissement peut par exemple être obtenu par un enroulement du fil élastique en une ou plusieurs spires (721) autour de cette pièce (72) de révolution. Le fournisseur comporte des moyens (73) de détection de la tension de sortie du fil, auxquels sont asservis les moyens de retenue par l'intermédiaire des moyens de traitement.In one embodiment, these retaining means comprise at least one minus one piece (72) of revolution on which the elastic thread is in contact without sliding, and whose movement is retained or controlled so as to vary the tension of the thread. This contact without slip can for example be obtained by winding the elastic yarn in one or more turns (721) around this piece (72) of revolution. The supplier has means (73) for detecting the output voltage of the wire, to which are enslaved the retaining means via the processing means.

Dans une variante, les mouvements de ces moyens de retenue sont asservis aux mouvements du métier à tricoter, par exemple en fonction du mouvement du guide-fil.In a variant, the movements of these retaining means are enslaved to the movements of the knitting machine, for example depending on the movement of the thread guide.

Dans une variante, la pièce (72) de révolution est retenue dans son mouvement d'accompagnement du fil par un actionneur ou un moteur appliquant un effort angulaire constant et régulé en fonction de la valeur de consigne saisie pour la tension à obtenir.In a variant, the piece (72) of revolution is retained in its accompanying motion of the wire by an actuator or motor applying a constant angular force and regulated according to the value of entered instruction for the tension to be obtained.

Dans le cas d'une rupture du fil d'élasticité en aval du fournisseur, ou d'une variation trop importante de sa tension, le fournisseur comporte des moyens de détection reliés (75) à des moyens de commande aptes à déclencher un arrêt du métier à tricoter.In the case of a rupture of the elastic thread downstream of the supplier, or excessive variation in its voltage, the supplier has detection means connected (75) to control means adapted to trigger a stop of the knitting machine.

Selon les applications, il est possible d'utiliser un guide-fil de type guide-fil à vaniser, recevant le fil d'élasticité de façon à obtenir un tricotage incluant ce fil d'élasticité par vanisage. Le vanisage est un procédé connu de tricotage, qui consiste à maintenir un fil, dit fil de vanisage, dans une position spécifique et distincte par rapport aux fils de fond, au sein du guide-fil, pour obtenir que ce fil ne soit visible que d'un côté de l'étoffe.Depending on the application, it is possible to use a wire guide type guide wire to be vanished, receiving the yarn of elasticity so as to obtain a knitting including this thread of elasticity by vanisage. Vanisage is a known method of knitting, which consists in keeping a thread, said plaiting wire, in a position specific and distinct in relation to the ground wires, within the wire guide, for get this thread visible only on one side of the fabric.

Un tel guide-fil (3) à vaniser est représenté en figure 5, et comporte deux passages différents pour les fils à tricoter. Un passage (306) de fil de fond présente un conduit de section sensiblement circulaire, alors que le passage (307) de fil à vaniser présente la forme d'une forme allongée dans le sens de déplacement du guide-fil et dépassant de chaque côté du passage de fil de fond. Ainsi, lors du déplacement du guide-fil, le fil à vaniser (37) sera entraíné par son inertie à l'extrémité (307g, 307d) de la fente située en arrière du fil (36) de fond, quel que soit le sens de déplacement.Such a thread guide (3) to be vanished is represented in FIG. 5, and comprises two different passages for knitting yarns. A passage (306) of ground wire has a duct of substantially circular section, while the passage 307) has the shape of an elongate shape in the direction of moving the wire guide and protruding on either side of the lead passage background. Thus, during the movement of the wire guide, the wire to be vanished (37) will be driven by its inertia at the end (307g, 307d) of the slot located behind the wire (36) background, regardless of the direction of travel.

Cette position spécifique à la sortie du guide-fil, par exemple derrière les fils de fond par rapport au sens de déplacement du chariot entraínant le guide-fil, permet d'obtenir que les aiguilles accrochent ce fil de vanisage toujours dans la même position par rapport au fil de fond, par exemple par une partie spécifique et distincte de l'aiguille. Le fil de vanisage peut par exemple être rabattu par la palette (112) mobile qui referme le crochet (111) de l'aiguille, au lieu de passer de lui-même à l'intérieur du crochet. Le fait d'accrocher le fil de vanisage par une partie de l'aiguille distincte de celle accrochant le fil de fond, ou à un instant différent, permet de tirer le fil de fond et le fil de vanisage toujours dans la même position l'un par rapport à l'autre. Cette particularité permet en particulier de réaliser une armure où le fil de vanisage n'est visible que d'un seul côté de l'étoffe.This specific position at the exit of the thread guide, for example behind the background wires in relation to the direction of travel of the carriage causing the wire guide, makes it possible for the needles to catch this vanishing wire always in the same position with respect to the background wire, for example by a specific and distinct part of the needle. The vanishing wire may for example being folded down by the movable pallet (112) which closes the hook (111) of the needle, instead of going by itself inside the hook. Hanging the wire of vanishing by a part of the needle distinct from that hanging the wire of bottom, or at a different time, pulls the bottom thread and the plumbing wire always in the same position relative to each other. This particularity allows in particular to achieve an armor where the vanishing wire is visible only on one side of the fabric.

Dans le procédé selon l'invention, il peut être intéressant d'insérer le fil d'élasticité par vanisage, par exemple tourné vers l'intérieur de la forme tubulaire. Cela permet par exemple de conserver les fils de fond tournés vers l'extérieur, et donc d'obtenir à l'extérieur de l'article le rendu esthétique voulu lors du choix de ces fils de fond. Le fait que les fibres élastiques soient toutes sur la même face de l'étoffe permet également un bon coulissement des mailles entre elles lors de l'extension, ce qui assure ainsi une bonne souplesse et régularité à l'étoffe lors de ses déformations.In the method according to the invention, it may be advantageous to insert the thread elasticity by vanisage, for example turned inward of the form tubular. This makes it possible, for example, to keep the bottom wires turned towards outside, and thus to obtain on the outside of the article the desired aesthetic rendering when choosing these background wires. The fact that elastic fibers are all on the same side of the fabric also allows for good sliding of mesh between them during the extension, which ensures a good flexibility and regularity to the fabric during its deformations.

Pour obtenir de bonnes performances en matières de régularité et fiabilité du procédé, l'invention propose également de modifier certains paramètres des métiers à tricoter spécifiquement utilisés pour de tels articles de ganterie dans le cas d'une insertion de fil élastique par vanisage. La distance entre les aiguilles (12, 13) et le guide-fil de vanisage constitue un paramètre réglé en usine, qui peut influer sur la qualité et la régularité de la maille. De façon à obtenir que les aiguilles accrochent le fil d'élasticité avec suffisamment de fiabilité, en particulier au moment de chaque départ ferme, l'invention propose de réduire sensiblement cette distance. To obtain good performances in matters of regularity and reliability of the process, the invention also proposes to modify certain settings of knitting looms specifically used for such items in the case of an insertion of elastic thread by vanisage. The the distance between the needles (12, 13) and the vanishing wire guide constitutes a parameter set at the factory, which can affect the quality and regularity of the mesh. In order to get the needles to hang the thread of elasticity with sufficient reliability, especially at the time of each firm departure, the invention proposes to substantially reduce this distance.

En effet lors d'un tricotage avec vanisage, le fil de vanisage est le plus souvent reçu par l'aiguille plus tard que le fil de fond, ce qui rend plus délicat son accrochage par le crochet (111). De façon habituelle, cet accrochage est facilité ou assuré par la fermeture de la palette (112) qui obture le crochet, cette palette étant rabattue par le fil constituant la maille (m121) précédente lorsque l'aiguille (12) se retire (d12) pour créer une nouvelle boucle (m122). Or, pour réaliser un article comportant un fil d'élasticité vanisé dans toute sa structure, ou dans des parties d'extrémité, il peut être nécessaire de débuter un tricotage en insérant ce fil d'élasticité dès le commencement. Un tel commencement est appelé départ ferme et utilise un mode de tricotage spécifique destiné à éviter le démaillage du bord ainsi créé, que ce soit à une extrémité fermée d'une forme tubulaire ou sur un bord devant rester libre.Indeed during a knitting with vanisage, the wire of vanisage is the most often received by the needle later than the background thread, making it more delicate its hooking by the hook (111). In the usual way, this hanging is facilitated or ensured by closing the pallet (112) which closes the hook, this pallet being folded back by the wire constituting the mesh (m121) preceding when the needle (12) retracts (d12) to create a new loop (m122). However, for to produce an article comprising a vanished elastic thread throughout its structure, or in end parts, it may be necessary to start knitting by inserting this elastic thread from the beginning. Such a beginning is called firm departure and uses a specific knitting mode designed to avoid demisting the edge thus created, whether at a closed end of a tubular shape or on an edge to remain free.

Lors d'un tel départ ferme, l'aiguille ne porte pas de maille « précédente » qui puisse refermer le clapet (112) de l'aiguille sur le fil d'élasticité (37). En conséquence, le fil d'élasticité doit être saisi uniquement par le crochet de l'aiguille, ce qui nécessite un réglage différent, comportant en particulier une approche fine et maximale du guide-fil par rapport à l'avancée des aiguilles en travail.During such a firm departure, the needle does not wear mesh "Previous" that can close the valve (112) of the needle on the wire elasticity (37). As a result, the yarn of elasticity must be grasped only the hook of the needle, which requires a different setting, including particular a fine and maximum approach of the wire guide with respect to the advanced needles in work.

A titre d'exemple, ce repostionnement du guide-fil par rapport aux aiguilles a été testé et sera ici quantifié pour un métier à tricoter de type Matsuya SGT (marque déposée), en jauge de 10 aiguilles par pouce et pouvant réaliser des articles jusqu'aux tailles L et LL. Sur cette machine, la distance modifiée sera définie par l'espace libre, dans l'axe des aiguilles, entre la surface externe du guide-fil de vanisage et l'arête supérieure (100) du bord le plus proche du support (10) recevant les aiguilles (11) de chaque fonture (1), ainsi qu'illustré en figure 4. Sur une machine de ce type installée avec l'option vanisage, la valeur de cette distance est à l'origine d'environ 4,9 millimètres. Dans les expérimentations réalisées, de bons résultats ont été obtenus en réduisant cette distance à une valeur inférieure à 4,5 mm, et en particulier de 4,3 mm.As an example, this restoring of the thread guide with respect to needles has been tested and will be quantified here for a knitting machine type Matsuya SGT (registered trademark), in gauge of 10 needles per inch and make articles up to sizes L and LL. On this machine, the distance modified will be defined by the free space, in the axis of the needles, between the outer surface of the plumbing wire guide and the upper edge (100) of the edge closer to the support (10) receiving the needles (11) of each needle bed (1), as illustrated in Figure 4. On a machine of this type installed with the option vanishing, the value of this distance is causing about 4.9 millimeters. In the experiments carried out, good results were obtained in reducing this distance to less than 4.5 mm, and in particular 4.3 mm.

Pour les titrages d'élasthanne mentionnés plus haut, un fournisseur de type Memminger EFS (marque déposée) a donné de bons résultats avec une tension de 2 à 3 grammes. Pour d'autres types d'articles ou pour obtenir des articles d'une « tenue» différente, les tensions utilisées peuvent également aller jusqu'à une valeur de 4 à 6 grammes.For the elastane titrations mentioned above, a supplier of Memminger type EFS (registered trademark) has given good results with a tension of 2 to 3 grams. For other types of articles or to obtain articles of a different "hold", the voltages used may also be go up to a value of 4 to 6 grams.

Il doit être évident pour les personnes versées dans l'art que la présente invention permet des modes de réalisation sous de nombreuses autres formes spécifiques sans l'éloigner du domaine d'application de l'invention comme revendiqué. Par conséquent, les présents modes de réalisation doivent être considérés à titre d'illustration, mais peuvent être modifiés dans le domaine défini par la portée des revendications jointes, et l'invention ne doit pas être limitée aux détails donnés ci-dessus.It must be obvious to those versed in the art that the present invention allows embodiments under many other specific forms without distancing it from the scope of the invention as claimed. Therefore, the present modes of realization should be considered as an illustration, but can be modified in the field defined by the scope of the attached claims, and the invention should not be limited to the details given above.

Claims (17)

Article (91, 92, 93, 94, 95) tricoté destiné à vêtir la main ou le pied, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte au moins deux parties tubulaires (910 à 915) tricotées directement sous leur forme tubulaire à partir d'une pluralité de fils comprenant au moins un premier fil (36), dit fil de fond, et un deuxième fil (37), dit fil d'élasticité, inséré selon une tension non-nulle et sensiblement constante, le fil d'élasticité étant réalisé à partir de caoutchouc naturel ou artificiel ou d'élasthanne ou d'un matériau présentant une élasticité et une capacité de déformation similaire.Knitted article (91, 92, 93, 94, 95) for clothing the hand or the foot, characterized in that it comprises at least two tubular parts (910 to 915) knitted directly in their tubular form from a plurality of wires comprising at least a first wire (36), said ground wire, and a second wire (37), said elastic wire, inserted at a non-zero voltage and substantially constant, the elastic wire being produced from natural or artificial rubber or elastane or a material with similar elasticity and deformability. Article selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le fil d'élasticité n'est inclus que dans certaines régions de l'article tricoté.Article according to claim 1, characterized in that the elastic thread is included only in certain regions of the knitted article. Article selon l'une des revendications 1 à 2, caractérisé en ce que le fil d'élasticité est un fil d'élasthanne non gainé, vanisé lors du tricotage.Article according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the elastic yarn is an unsheathed elastane yarn, vanished during knitting. Article selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu'il est tricoté selon une jauge comprise entre 3 et 16 aiguilles par pouce.Article according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it is knitted according to a gauge of between 3 and 16 needles per inch. Article selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'il est tricoté selon une armure en jersey ou dérivée de cette armure.Article according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is knitted in a jersey weave or derived from this weave. Article selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce qu'il réalise une pièce (91, 92, 95) d'habillement destinée à recouvrir la main ou le pied, et présentant au moins deux parties (911, 912, 921, 922, 951, 952) de formes tubulaires se rejoignant en au moins une partie (910, 920, 950) pour former une partie tubulaire communiquant avec ces deux parties tubulaires.Article according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it produces a clothing part (91, 92, 95) intended to cover the hand or foot, and having at least two parts (911, 912, 921, 922, 951, 952) of tubular shapes joining at least a portion (910, 920, 950) to form a tubular portion communicating with these two tubular portions. Article l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce qu'il présente la forme d'un gant (91), ou d'une mitaine (92), ou d'une chaussette (95) ou bas, l'article comportant au moins deux doigts séparés.Article according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a glove (91), or a mitten (92), or a sock (95) or stockings, the article having at least two separate fingers. Dispositif de tricotage d'articles à formes tubulaires, comportant des moyens de fourniture d'au moins un fil (36), dit fil de fond, depuis une source (6) de fil jusqu'à un guide-fil mobile (3), lequel présente ce fil à proximité des extrémités d'une succession d'aiguilles alignées de façon parallèle et coplanaire en deux lits (1, 2) d'aiguilles disposés l'un en face de l'autre et portés chacun par une fonture pour permettre le tricotage d'une face des formes tubulaires, chacune de ces aiguilles (11, 12, 13) pouvant se déplacer (d11) le long de son axe longitudinal pour saisir ce fil dans des moyens (111) d'accrochage et le ramener (d12) en arrière au cours d'un appel de fil, en le passant au travers d'une boucle (m121) de fil précédemment formée autour de cette aiguille ( 12), formant ainsi une nouvelle boucle (m 122) dépassant de la précédente, puis en le libérant des moyens d'accrochage et pour glisser cette même aiguille au travers de cette nouvelle boucle, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte des moyens de fourniture, dit fournisseur (7), d'au moins un fil (37) d'élasticité, en élasthanne ou caoutchouc naturel ou artificiel ou d'un matériau de caractéristiques mécaniques similaires, depuis une source (8) de fil d'élasticité jusqu'au guide-fil (3) pour que ce fil (37) d'élasticité soit saisi par tout ou partie des aiguilles en même temps qu'au moins un fil de fond, le guide-fil (3) étant rendu mobile sur un chariot assurant le passage devant chacun des deux lits d'aiguilles pour assurer la continuité entre les deux faces des formes tubulaires tricotées, le fournisseur (7) laissant échapper le fil d'élasticité vers le guide-fil en lui appliquant une tension non nulle et sensiblement constante pendant et entre les opérations successives d'appel de fil subies par ce fil d'élasticité.Device for knitting tubular articles, comprising means for supplying at least one wire (36), said ground wire, from a source (6) of wire to a movable wire guide (3), which has this wire near the ends of a succession of needles aligned in parallel and coplanar manner in two beds (1, 2) of needles arranged opposite each other and each carried by a needle bed to allow knitting a face of the tubular shapes, each of these needles (11, 12, 13) being movable (d11) along its longitudinal axis to seize this thread in means (111) of attachment and bring it back ( d12) back during a wire call, passing it through a loop (m121) of wire previously formed around this needle (12), thereby forming a new loop (m 122) exceeding the previous one , then by releasing the attachment means and to slide this same needle through this new loop, ca characterized in that it comprises means of supply, said supplier (7), of at least one yarn (37) of elasticity, made of elastane or natural or artificial rubber or a material of similar mechanical characteristics, since source (8) of elastic thread to the thread guide (3) so that the thread (37) of elasticity is grasped by all or some of the needles together with at least one thread, the guide -fil (3) being made mobile on a carriage ensuring the passage in front of each of the two needle beds to ensure continuity between the two faces of the knitted tubular shapes, the supplier (7) allowing the elastic thread to escape towards the guide by applying to it a non-zero and substantially constant tension during and between the successive thread-calling operations undergone by this elasticity thread. Dispositif selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que le fournisseur (7) comporte des moyens (72) de retenue du fil d'élasticité, ces moyens de retenue étant commandés par des moyens de commande réagissant au mouvement des aiguilles, ou du guide-fil, ou de moyens de mesure de la tension dans le fil d'élasticité ou dans au moins un fil de fond.Device according to claim 8, characterized in that the supplier (7) comprises means (72) for retaining the elastic yarn, these retaining means being controlled by control means responsive to the movement of the needles, or the guide- thread, or means for measuring the tension in the elastic thread or in at least one thread. Dispositif selon l'une des revendications 8 à 9, caractérisé en ce que les moyens de retenue comportent un mécanisme de retenue au contact du fil d'élasticité (37) et se déplaçant simultanément avec lui et sans glissement, le déplacement de ce mécanisme de retenue étant asservi à une valeur de consigne à obtenir pour la tension de ce fil d'élasticité en aval du fournisseur.Device according to one of claims 8 to 9, characterized in that the retaining means comprise a retaining mechanism in contact with the elastic thread (37) and moving simultaneously with it and without sliding, the displacement of this mechanism of Withholding being slaved to a set value to be obtained for the tension of this elastic yarn downstream of the supplier. Dispositif selon l'une des revendications 8 à 10, caractérisé en ce que le mouvement du mécanisme de retenue est régulé (74) par des moyens de régulation réagissant pour maintenir une tension sensiblement constante dans le fil d'élasticité à la sortie du fournisseur.Device according to one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the movement of the retaining mechanism is regulated (74) by regulating means responsive to maintain a substantially constant tension in the elastic wire at the output of the supplier. Dispositif selon l'une des revendications 8 à 11, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte des moyens (73) de détection de casse ou de baisse de tension du fil d'élasticité entre la sortie du fournisseur et le guide-fil, ces moyens de détection étant utilisés par des moyens de commande pour commander (75) l'arrêt du tricotage lorsque le fil d'élasticité est rompu ou que sa tension baisse en dessous d'une valeur déterminée.Device according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that it comprises means (73) for detecting breakage or drop in tension of the elastic wire between the output of the supplier and the wire guide, these means detection means being used by control means to control (75) the stopping of the knitting when the elasticity thread is broken or its tension decreases below a determined value. Dispositif selon l'une des revendications 8 à 12, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte des moyens de saisie d'au moins une donnée informatique ou électronique représentant une valeur de consigne pour les moyens de régulation agissant au sein du fournisseur (7) pour réguler la tension du fil d'élasticité.Device according to one of claims 8 to 12, characterized in that it comprises means for capturing at least one computer or electronic data representing a set value for the regulation means acting within the supplier (7) for regulate the tension of the elastic thread. Procédé de tricotage d'articles à formes tubulaires par au moins un lit (1, 2) d'aiguilles parallèles entre elles tricotant au moins un fil (36) de fond, caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte la fourniture d'au moins un fil (37) d'élasticité, en élasthanne ou caoutchouc naturel ou artificiel ou d'un matériau de caractéristiques mécaniques similaires, par des moyens de fourniture, dits fournisseur (7), à partir d'une source (8) de fil d'élasticité et jusqu'à un guide-fil (3) se déplaçant à proximité des extrémités d'aiguilles (11, 12, 13) parallèles et coplanaires, les aiguilles appartenant à deux lits d'aiguilles disposés l'un en face de l'autre et desservis par le guide-fil (3) mobile sur un chariot de façon à assurer la continuité du tricotage de deux faces opposées des formes tubulaires, au moins une partie de ces aiguilles saisissant le fil d'élasticité et au moins un fil de fond en un même cycle de mouvement pour constituer une nouvelle boucle (m122) en ramenant ces fils à travers une autre boucle (m121) précédemment formée de la même façon, ce fil d'élasticité étant dispensé à la sortie du fournisseur en conservant une tension non nulle et sensiblement constante.Process for knitting tubular articles by at least one bed (1, 2) of needles parallel to one another knitting at least one thread (36), characterized in that it comprises the provision of at least one yarn (37) of elasticity, of elastane or natural or artificial rubber or of a material of similar mechanical characteristics, by means of supply, said supplier (7), from a source (8) of yarn elasticity and up to a wire guide (3) moving near the ends of needles (11, 12, 13) parallel and coplanar, the needles belonging to two needle beds arranged one in front of the other and served by the wire guide (3) movable on a carriage so as to ensure the continuity of the knitting of two opposite faces of the tubular shapes, at least a portion of these needles grasping the elastic thread and at least one thread of background in the same cycle of movement to constitute a new loop (m122) in bringing these son through another loop (m121) previously formed in the same way, the elastic wire being dispensed at the output of the supplier maintaining a non-zero voltage and substantially constant. Procédé selon la revendication 14, caractérisé en ce que la tension dans le fil (37) d'élasticité est maintenue à une valeur allant de 2 grammes à 6 grammes.Method according to claim 14, characterized in that the tension in the yarn (37) of elasticity is maintained at a value ranging from 2 grams to 6 grams. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 14 à 15, caractérisé en ce que le fil (37) d'élasticité est présenté devant les aiguilles par un guide-fil de vanisage, la position du fil d'élasticité par rapport au fil (36) de fond devant les aiguilles (1, 2) permettant d'obtenir une étoffe où l'un de ces deux fils apparaít majoritairement sur une face, l'autre fil apparaissant majoritairement sur l'autre face.Method according to one of Claims 14 to 15, characterized in that the yarn (37) of elasticity is presented in front of the needles by a vanishing thread guide, the position of the elastic yarn with respect to the thread (36) bottom in front of the needles (1, 2) to obtain a fabric where one of these two son appears mostly on one side, the other wire appearing mainly on the other side. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 14 à 16, caractérisé en ce que le fil (37) d'élasticité est présenté devant les aiguilles par un guide-fil de vanisage, ce guide-fil (3) de vanisage étant positionné de façon à laisser une distance (dv) maximale de 4.3 mm, selon l'axe des aiguilles, entre le guide-fil (3) et les dents (101) formées par l'arête supérieure du support (10) de fonture portant les aiguilles.Method according to one of claims 14 to 16, characterized in that the yarn (37) of elasticity is presented in front of the needles by a guide-wire of vanisage, this guide-thread (3) of vanisage being positioned so as to leave a maximum distance (dv) of 4.3 mm, along the axis of the needles, between the wire guide (3) and the teeth (101) formed by the upper edge of the support (10) of needle-bedding carrying the needles.
EP03291020.0A 2002-05-03 2003-04-25 Method and device for knitting tubular articles provided with an elastic yarn and thereby manufatured article Expired - Lifetime EP1359239B1 (en)

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0205569 2002-05-03
FR0205569A FR2839321B1 (en) 2002-05-03 2002-05-03 METHOD AND DEVICE FOR KNITTING TUBULAR ARTICLES INCLUDING AN ELASTIC FIBER, AND ARTICLE PRODUCED THEREBY

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Cited By (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114481428A (en) * 2022-03-03 2022-05-13 浙江斯坦格运动护具科技有限公司 High-elastic sun-proof cool ice sleeve

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EP0431984A1 (en) * 1989-10-31 1991-06-12 Ets J. Le Borgne S.A. Double faced elastic knitwear
EP0498062A1 (en) * 1991-02-05 1992-08-12 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Fabric manufactured from textile threads and joint bandage manufactured therefrom
WO1995004177A1 (en) * 1993-07-30 1995-02-09 Giuseppe Drisaldi Process and machine for manufacturing elastic bands as well as bands thus obtained
DE19642051A1 (en) * 1995-10-12 1997-04-17 Du Pont Method and device for knitting or knitting knitwear from inelastic yarn and bare elastomeric yarn and construction of a tailored knitwear
EP0773314A1 (en) * 1995-11-07 1997-05-14 Le Bourget (Etablissements JP Saltiel et ses Fils) Improved hosiery article, like lady's stocking or panty
DE19801643A1 (en) * 1998-01-17 1999-07-22 Stoll & Co H Flatbed knitter to knit a hosiery stretch fabric
US6155084A (en) * 1996-10-11 2000-12-05 World Fibers, Inc Protective articles made of a composite fabric
FR2801495A1 (en) * 1999-11-30 2001-06-01 Cognon Morin Orthesis garment, for treatment of oedemas and haematoses following liposuction, comprises reinforced zone(s) to exercise extra compression on specific areas by including extra elastic yarns

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US3788103A (en) * 1972-11-13 1974-01-29 Matsuya Tekkoshe Kk Method of knitting gloves
EP0431984A1 (en) * 1989-10-31 1991-06-12 Ets J. Le Borgne S.A. Double faced elastic knitwear
EP0498062A1 (en) * 1991-02-05 1992-08-12 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Fabric manufactured from textile threads and joint bandage manufactured therefrom
WO1995004177A1 (en) * 1993-07-30 1995-02-09 Giuseppe Drisaldi Process and machine for manufacturing elastic bands as well as bands thus obtained
DE19642051A1 (en) * 1995-10-12 1997-04-17 Du Pont Method and device for knitting or knitting knitwear from inelastic yarn and bare elastomeric yarn and construction of a tailored knitwear
EP0773314A1 (en) * 1995-11-07 1997-05-14 Le Bourget (Etablissements JP Saltiel et ses Fils) Improved hosiery article, like lady's stocking or panty
US6155084A (en) * 1996-10-11 2000-12-05 World Fibers, Inc Protective articles made of a composite fabric
DE19801643A1 (en) * 1998-01-17 1999-07-22 Stoll & Co H Flatbed knitter to knit a hosiery stretch fabric
FR2801495A1 (en) * 1999-11-30 2001-06-01 Cognon Morin Orthesis garment, for treatment of oedemas and haematoses following liposuction, comprises reinforced zone(s) to exercise extra compression on specific areas by including extra elastic yarns

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114481428A (en) * 2022-03-03 2022-05-13 浙江斯坦格运动护具科技有限公司 High-elastic sun-proof cool ice sleeve

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FR2839321B1 (en) 2005-05-27
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