EP1432384A2 - Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques, automoussantes, sous forme de mousse, a moussage ulterieur ou moussantes, contenant des cires et/ou des lipides solides et/ou semi-solides a temperature ambiante - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques, automoussantes, sous forme de mousse, a moussage ulterieur ou moussantes, contenant des cires et/ou des lipides solides et/ou semi-solides a temperature ambiante

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Publication number
EP1432384A2
EP1432384A2 EP02800061A EP02800061A EP1432384A2 EP 1432384 A2 EP1432384 A2 EP 1432384A2 EP 02800061 A EP02800061 A EP 02800061A EP 02800061 A EP02800061 A EP 02800061A EP 1432384 A2 EP1432384 A2 EP 1432384A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
wax
waxes
foam
solid
foaming
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02800061A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Heidi Riedel
Andreas Bleckmann
Rainer Kröpke
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP1432384A2 publication Critical patent/EP1432384A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in particular skin-care cosmetic and dermatological preparations.
  • Foams or foam-like preparations belong to the disperse systems
  • Emulsions are two- or multi-phase systems of two or more liquids which are insoluble or only slightly soluble in one another.
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • the liquids are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally only of limited stability
  • Foams are structures made of gas-filled, spherical or polyhedral cells, which are delimited by liquid, semi-liquid, highly viscous or solid cell bridges.
  • the cell bridges connected via so-called nodes, form a coherent framework.
  • the foam lamellae (closed-cell foam) stretch between the cell bars. If the foam lamellae are destroyed or flow formation at the end of foam in the cell walls back, one obtains an open-cell foam Foams are thermodynamically unstable since can be obtained by reducing the surface top ⁇ surface energy. The stability and thus the existence of a foam is thus dependent depending how far it is possible to prevent its self-destruction to ver ⁇ .
  • Cosmetic foams are generally dispersed systems composed of liquids and gases, the liquid being the dispersant and the gas the dispersed substance. Foams made from low-viscosity liquids are temporarily stabilized by surface-active substances (surfactants, foam stabilizers). Such surfactant foams have a large inner surface a strong adsorption capacity, which is used, for example, in cleaning and washing processes. Accordingly, cosmetic foams are used in particular in the areas of cleaning, for example as shaving cream, and hair care
  • foam gas is blown into suitable liquids, or foam formation is achieved by violent beating, rubbing, splashing or stirring the liquid in the gas atmosphere in question, provided that the liquids contain suitable surfactants or other surface-active substances (so-called foaming agents) that besides interfacial activity also possess a certain film formation ability
  • Cosmetic foams have the advantage over other cosmetic preparations that they allow a fine distribution of active ingredients on the skin.
  • cosmetic foams can generally only be achieved by using special surfactants, which are often not very skin-friendly
  • After-foaming cosmetic preparations are also known per se. They are first applied to the skin in a fluid form from an aerosol container and develop after a short delay only there under the influence of the after-foaming agent contained, for example a shaving foam after-foaming preparations are often in special embodiments such as after-foaming shaving gels or the like
  • German Offenlegungsschnft DE 197 54 659 discloses that carbon dioxide is a suitable active ingredient for stabilizing or increasing the epidermal ceramide synthesis rate, which can serve to strengthen the permeability bar, reduce the trans-epidermal water loss and increase the relative skin moisture.
  • the C0 2 is dissolved in water, which is then used to rinse the skin.
  • the prior art has hitherto known no cosmetic or dermatological principles into which a gaseous active ingredient could be incorporated in sufficient, ie effective, concentration
  • self-foaming, foam-like, after-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations which contain at least one wax and / or a lipid solid or semisolid at room temperature remedy the disadvantages of the prior art
  • “self-foaming”, “foam-like”, “post-foaming” or “foamable” is to be understood to mean that the gas bubbles (as desired) are present in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the preparations not necessarily macroscopically must have the appearance of a foam
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can represent, for example, macroscopically visible dispersed systems composed of gases dispersed in liquids.
  • foams according to the invention especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized by the large increase in volume of the system
  • the invention makes it possible for the first time to access a substantial, compact cream foam which is distinguished by a long storage period and by an extraordinarily high stability and a compact appearance.
  • the use of the waxes and / or lipids according to the invention supports the entry of gases and achieves a stabilizing and significantly foam-increasing effect over a longer storage period even at higher temperatures (for example 40 ° C.). It was particularly surprising that the use of special Surfactants can be dispensed with The introduction of gases is surprisingly extraordinarily increased compared to the prior art. For example, foam enhancement can be achieved with up to 100% increased gas volume without using conventional foaming agents such as surfactants according to the prior art
  • the invention is therefore also the
  • foam reinforcement is to be understood to mean that the introduction of gases into the foams according to the invention is extraordinarily increased compared to the entry into preparations which are otherwise the same and which do not contain waxes and / or lipids according to the invention absorb a higher gas volume than preparations which do not contain waxes and / or lipids according to the invention
  • Foam enhancement also means that the stability of the foamed preparations (the “foam stability”) is significantly improved over preparations which are otherwise the same and which do not contain waxes and / or lipids according to the invention, ie the use according to the invention breaks the Foam delayed
  • foam enhancement in the sense of the present invention means that the cosmetic properties of the foams according to the invention are also significantly improved in comparison to preparations which do not contain waxes and / or lipids according to the invention Foams ("foam creams") which, despite their compactness and richness, are easy to distribute and absorb quickly
  • the novel preparations are in all respects very befriedi ⁇ constricting preparations represents It was particularly surprising that the inventive schaumformigen preparations - even with an unusually high volume of gas - are extremely stable. Accordingly, they are particularly suitable to serve as the basis for forms of preparation with a variety of uses.
  • the preparations according to the invention show very good sensory properties, such as, for example, the spreadability on the skin or the ability to be absorbed into the skin, and are furthermore distinguished by an above-average skin care.
  • Wax is - like "resin” - a collective name for a number of natural or artificially obtained substances, which generally have the following properties: kneadable at 20 ° C, hard to brittle hard, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, however not glassy, melting above 40 ° C without decomposition, already a little above the melting point, relatively low viscosity and not stringy, strongly temperature-dependent consistency and solubility and polishable under light pressure. If, in borderline cases, more than one of the properties mentioned above is not fulfilled for a substance, it is not a wax as defined by this definition. Waxes differ from similar synthetic or natural products (e.g. resins, plastic masses, etc.) mainly in that they are usually between 30 and 90 ° C, in exceptional cases up to about 200 ° C, in the molten liquid , low viscosity state and are practically free of ash-forming compounds.
  • waxes are compounds which are characterized in that, together with the other oil components of the preparations according to the invention (such as polar, liquid compounds, UV filters and their solvents, etc.), they form a mass which is spreadable or flowable at room temperature, which has a viscosity of more than 500 mPa-s at 20 ° C.
  • Advantageous waxes and / or lipids according to the invention are, for example, paraffin hydrocarbons, synthetic or semi-synthetic waxes or wax esters and vegetable waxes and mixtures thereof with melting points or solidification points of 25 to 125 ° C.
  • compositions according to the invention are also those listed below: Class Subgroup Examples Natural waxes Vegetable waxes Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, Japanese wax,
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax, china wax, bumblebee wax and other insect waxes, in particular those mentioned below.
  • Beeswax z. B. is an excretion product from the glands of honeybees that they use to build honeycombs. Yellow (cera flava), brown or red so-called raw wax can be obtained, for example, by melting the honeycomb freed from the honey by centrifuging, separating the melt from solid impurities and allowing the raw wax thus obtained to solidify.
  • the raw wax can be bleached completely white by treatment with oxidizing agents (cera alba).
  • Beeswax consists of cerin, which is easily soluble in alcohol, a mixture of cerotinic acid CH 3 (CH 2 ) 24 COOH and melissic acid CH 3 (CH 2 ) 2 8COOH as well as a myri- an ester mixture of approx. 70 esters of C ⁇ 6 - to C 3 6-acids and C 2 4 to C 36 - alcohols.
  • the essential constituents of beeswax are myricyl palmitate, myricylcerotinate and paraffin.
  • Other insect waxes such as bumblebee wax, shellac wax or china wax are essentially mixtures of different esters. China wax z. B.
  • Shellac wax is obtained from Lac, the secretion of the female patent scale lice (Kerria lacca), which is found in huge colonies (Lac is derived from the Hindhi word "Lakh” for 100,000) on trees and shrubs in South Asia (India, Burma, southern China)
  • the shellac wax accessible through solvent extraction contains the essential constituents myricylic alcohol, melissic acid and other wax alcohols and acids or their esters.
  • Plant waxes are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. Cuticular waxes of lower and higher plants, algae, lichens, mosses and fungi, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, rice wax, sugar cane wax, fruit waxes, e.g. B. apple wax, flower waxes, leaf waxes of conifers, coffee wax, flax wax, sesame wax, jojoba oil and the like.
  • Candelilla waxes e.g. B. are brownish to yellowish brown, hard wax-like masses, which are soluble in lipophilic solvents.
  • Candelilla wax contains odd numbered aliphatic hydrocarbons (approx. 42%), esters (approx. 39%), wax acids and wax alcohols. It can be obtained, for example, from the shredded, fleshy leaves of a spikeless milkweed species (Euphorbia cerifera) by boiling them with aqueous sulfuric acid.
  • Carnauba wax is a yellowish, greenish or dark gray mass, which can be obtained in various qualities obtained through selection from the leaves of the Brazilian fan palm Copemicia prunifera or Carnauba palm (Carnauba cerifera), for example by wax dust from the withered fronds. burstet, melted, filtered and broken into pieces after solidification.
  • Carnauba wax can be lightened by bleaching agents. It contains approx. 85% esters, each containing approx. 2-3% free wax acids (carnauba-behenic, lignocene, mehlssinic and cerotinic acid), long-chain alcohols , Diols and saturated hydrocarbons
  • Japanese wax also Japanese tallow or Cera japonica
  • Chinese wax is colorless or yellowish, pure vegetable fat that can be obtained, for example, in Japan from the fruits of a tree-shaped Su-mach wax (Rhus succedanea) by boiling out.
  • the main components of Japanese wax are palmitic acid glycerine esters and esters of Japanese acid (Heneicosandisaure, C- 21 H 40 O 4 ), phellogenic acid (Docosa ⁇ disaure, C 22 H 42 O 4 ) and T ⁇ cosandisaure (C 23 H 44 ⁇ 4 )
  • Parto wax is a by-product of pulp and paper production from esparto grass (Graminaceae), which is native to Mediterranean countries. It consists of about 15 to 17% wax acids (e.g. cerotin and melissic acid) and 20 to 22% alcohols and hydrocarbons and 63 to 65% from esters
  • modified waxes and synthetic waxes are also advantageous according to the invention.
  • Preferred modified waxes are, for example, beeswax esters, in particular the alkyl beeswaxes available from KOSTER KEUNEN under the trade names BW Ester BW 67, BW Ester BW 80
  • Preferred synthetic waxes are, for example Bienenwachskomponete under the trade designation B 85 available SCHLICKUM and silicone waxes konbasis which are distinguished by the following structural ⁇ structure such dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxanes B, where x is a number between 18 and 24
  • the behenoxy dimethicone is particularly advantageous, for which x means 21 from the above structural formula and which is available under the trade name Abil® Wax 2440 from Th Goldschmidt AG.
  • a wax is also preferred Silicone base available under the trade name Siliconyl Beeswax from KOSTER KEUNEN
  • fatty acids and / or fatty acid mixtures for example C 16 36 fatty acids, in particular those which are available under the trade name Syncrowax AW1C from Croda GmbH
  • ester waxes are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • cetylricinoleate is particularly preferred.
  • esters of glycol in particular glycol esters of lignoceric acid (CH 3 (CH2) 22 COOH), cerotic acid (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 2 COOH) and / or montanic acid (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 26 COOH)
  • Glycol esters of montanic acid (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 26 COOH) are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • An advantageous glycol mononate is e.g. B. in a mixture with butylene glycol montanate under the trade name Wax E Pharma from Clariant.
  • wax components from the group of glycerides, in particular from the group of triglycerides.
  • the glycerides and triglycerides listed below are particularly advantageous:
  • shea butter also known as karite fat or galamutter, is particularly preferred (CAS No. 68920-03-6).
  • Shea butter is the fat of the seeds or kernels of the family of the Sapotaceae plant belonging to the Butyrospermum Parkii plant, which contains approximately 34 to 45% by weight of solid fatty acids (primarily stearic acid) and approximately 50 to 60% by weight of liquid fatty acids (primarily Containing oleic acid).
  • the waxes are further preferably selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with 14 up to 40 carbon atoms, particularly preferred are behenyl alcohol (C22H45OH) cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of Cet alcohol (C 15 H 33 OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], cetyl arachidol [2-hexadecyl-1-ecoscosanol (C 3 ⁇ H 73 OH),] and / or 2-tetradecyloctadecanol (C 32 H 65 OH).
  • Advantageous embodiments of the two last-mentioned fatty alcohols are available under the trade names Isofol 36 and Isofol 32 from Condea
  • paraffin waxes or mineral waxes such as ceresin, ozokent and the like
  • animal waxes such as walrus, lanolin (wool wax), root fat and the like
  • micro wax a wax product from the mineral wax which settles in crude oil storage tanks and in oil lines and which contains heavy petroleum oils in lubricating oil distillates and in distillation residues, which deoils and by treatment with sulfuric acid, aluminum chloride or bleaching earth is brightened
  • microwax In contrast to coarse-crystalline paraffin wax, microwax has a very fine crystal structure, which is why it is sometimes referred to as microcrystalline paraffin (microparaffin), ceresine or hard petrolatum and is similar in properties to ozocent. It is advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use microwax in mixtures with ordinary Paraffin and / or other waxes to use
  • ozone crystals (earth waxes), light yellow, brown, gray-black or black, amorphous, ointment-like soft to brittle, hard masses with melting points between 50 and 100 ° C.
  • the hard, high-melting grades are almost odorless, the softer smell partly pleasantly aromatic partly petroleum-like
  • Ceresin is also an advantageous wax for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Ceresin (Zeresin, mineral wax, cera mineralis alba) is a colorless, odorless, tasteless wax with a melting point of 58 to 80 ° C (cleaned 70 to 75 ° C).
  • Ceresin is a mixture of normal, branched-chain and ring-shaped saturated hydrocarbons, which is obtained by refining ozokerite earth wax (hydrocarbon wax) of fossil origin.
  • paraffin waxes are solid mixtures of purified, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons (paraffins) that are colorless, odorless and tasteless. Also advantageous is hard paraffin (Paraffinum solidum), a solid crystalline mass.
  • paraffin waxes are solid mixtures of purified, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons (paraffins) that are colorless, odorless and tasteless.
  • hard paraffin Paraffinum solidum
  • a solid crystalline mass for semi-solid paraffin wax qualities with melting points from 45 to 65 ° C, names like soft paraffin are used, for those with melting points from 38 to 60 ° C and boiling points> 300 ° C, names like petrolatum are used; a well-known brand for the latter is petroleum jelly.
  • Vaseline is also an advantageous wax for the purposes of the present invention. Vaseline is commercially available as yellow and white petroleum jelly and is a mineral fat.
  • the total amount of waxes and / or lipids in the range from 0.05 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation , to choose.
  • C at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms
  • the one or more emulsifiers A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are wholly or partly neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or tetrahanolamine)
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or tetrahanolamine
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or tetrahanolamine
  • the emulsifier or emulsifiers B are preferably selected from the following group PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 diastearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl tolate, PEG-40 -Sorb ⁇ tanlanolat, PEG-15-Glycerylr ⁇ c ⁇ noleat, PEG-20-Glycerylstearat, PEG-20-Glyceryl ⁇ sostearat, PEG-20-Glyceryloleat, PEG-20-Stearate, PEG-20-Methylglucosesesqu ⁇ stearat, PEG-30-Glyceryllaostearate, PEG-30-Glyceryllaurate , PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stea
  • the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group behenyl alcohol (C 22 H 45 OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (C 16 H 33 OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols, which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax).
  • cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C such as abc, where a, b and c can independently represent rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3. Particularly preferred is a weight ratio of about 1 1 1
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C is advantageous for the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C to be in the range from 2 to 20% by weight from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation
  • the gas phase of the preparations contains carbon dioxide or consists entirely of carbon dioxide. It is particularly advantageous if carbon dioxide represents one or the active ingredient in the preparations according to the invention
  • compositions according to the invention already develop into fine-blown foams during their manufacture - for example during stirring or during homogenization - fine-bubble, rich foams of outstanding cosmetic elegance are obtainable according to the invention.
  • skin-compatible preparations are available according to the invention, with valuable ingredients being particularly good can be spread on the skin
  • the formulations according to the present invention contain further emulsifiers.
  • Those emulsifiers are preferably used which are suitable for the preparation of W / 0 emulsions, which may be present either individually or in any combination with one another
  • the further emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of the hydrophilic emulsifiers. According to the invention, particular preference is given to mono-, di-fatty acid esters of sorbitan
  • the total amount of the further emulsifiers is advantageously chosen to be less than 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation
  • Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention are free from mono- or diglyceryl fatty acid esters.
  • Particularly preferred preparations according to the invention which do not contain glyceryl stearate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl dnsostearate, Contain glyceryl oleate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl alcoholate and / or glyceryl laurate
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of nonpolar lipids with a polarity> 30 mN / m and cyclic or linear silicone oils.
  • Particularly advantageous nonpolar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • hydrocarbons paraffin oil and other hydrogenated polyolefins such as hydrogenated polyisobutenes squalane and squalene are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention
  • the content of the lipid phase is advantageously chosen to be less than 50% by weight, preferably between 2.5 and 30% by weight, particularly preferably between 5 and 15% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. It may also be advantageous, although not mandatory if the lipid phase contains up to 40% by weight - based on the total weight of the lipid phase - of polar lipids (with a polarity ⁇ 20 mN / m) and / or medium polar lipids (with a polarity of 20 to 30 mN / m)
  • Particularly advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are all native lipids, such as, for example, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palmol coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, distelol, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, avocadool and the like, and those listed below
  • medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are those listed below.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain inorganic particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances and / or inorganic gel formers
  • Advantageous inorganic particulate hydrophobic and / or hydrophobized and / or oil-absorbing solid substances can for example be selected from the group
  • the inorganic fillers (such as talc, kaolin, zeo the, boron nitride),
  • the inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water in particular oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, manganese, aluminum, cerium
  • the inorganic pigments based on silicon oxides such as in particular the types Aeros ⁇ l- 200, Aerosil 200 V
  • the silicate derivatives such as sodium silicoaluminate or fluoro magnesium silicate (submica types), calcium aluminum borosilicate).
  • Silica dimethyl silylate is particularly preferred.
  • Aerosils to be used particularly advantageously according to the invention are available, for example, under the trade names Aerosil® 130 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® 200 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil 255 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® 300 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® 380 (Degussa Hüls) B-6C ( Suzuki Yushi) CAB-O-SIL Fumed Silica (Cabot) CAB-O- SIL EH-5 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL HS-5 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL LM-130 (Cabot) CAB-O- SIL MS-55 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL M-5 (Cabot) E-6C (Suzuki Yushi) Fossil Flour MBK (MBK) MSS-500 (Kobo) Neosil CT 11 (Crosfield Co) Ronasphere (Rona / EM Industries ) Sil
  • silica dimethylsilylate eg Aerosil ® R972 (Degussa Hüls) Aerosil® R974 (Degussa Hüls) CAB-O-SIL TS- 610 (Cabot) CAB-O-SIL TS-720 (Cabot) Wacker HDK H15 (Wacker-Chemie) Wacker HDK H18 (Wacker-Chemie ) Wacker HDK H20 (Wacker-Chemie))
  • silica silylates e.g.
  • Aerosil R 812 (Degussa Hüls) CAB-O-SIL TS-530 (Cabot) Sipernat D 17 (Degussa Hüls) Wacker HDK H2000 (Wacker-Chemie)
  • very advantageous inorganic gel formers can be selected from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic layered silicates.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain mixtures of different modified and / or unmodified layered silicates
  • Layered silicates which are also called phyllosates, are to be understood in the context of this application to be silicates and aluminosilicates in which the silicate or aluminate units are linked to one another via three SiO-0 or Al-O bonds and a corrugated sheet or layer structure form
  • the fourth S ⁇ -0 or Al-O valence is saturated by cations Between the individual layers there are weaker electrostatic interactions, eg hydrogen bonds.
  • the layer structure is largely characterized by strong, covalent bonds
  • the stochiometer of the leaf silicates is (S ⁇ 2 0 5 2 ) for pure silicate structures and (Al m S ⁇ 2 m ⁇ 5 ( 2 + m )) for alumosilicates m is a number greater than zero and less than 2
  • the charge balance is preferably balanced by H + , alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ions.
  • Aluminum is also known and advantageous as a counter ion. In contrast to the aluminum silicates, these compounds are called aluminum silicates. Also “aluminum aluminum silicates”, in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network and as a counter ion , are known and may be of advantage for the present invention
  • layered silicates are Montmo ⁇ llonit Nao33 ((Al ⁇ ⁇ 7Mgo33) (OH) 2 (S l 4 ⁇ 1 o)) often simplified AI 2 0 3 * 4S ⁇ 0 2 * H2 ⁇ * nH2 ⁇ or AI 2 [(OH) 2 / S ⁇ 4 0 ⁇ o] n H 2 0
  • Kaolinite AI 2 (OH) 4 (S ⁇ 2 ⁇ 5) llit (K, H 3 O) y (Mg 3 (0H) 2 (Si 4 y Al y O 10 )) and (K, H 3 0) y (AI 2 (OH) 2 (S ⁇ 4 y Al y O 10 )) m ⁇ t y 0.7 - 0 9
  • Very advantageous inorganic gel formers in the sense of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmonllonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum®) Types) and sodium-magnesium silicates (Lapon ⁇ te® types)
  • montmonllonites bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites
  • magnesium-aluminum silicates Veegum®) Types
  • sodium-magnesium silicates Lapon ⁇ te® types
  • Montmonllonites are clay minerals belonging to the dioctahedral smectites and are masses that swell but do not become plastic.
  • the layer packs in the three-layer structure of the montmonllonites can be reversibly incorporated in water (in 2-7 times the amount), inter alia, substances such as alcohols , Glycols, pydin, ⁇ -picolm, ammonium compounds, hydroxyaluminosilicate ions etc. swell
  • Synthetic magnesium silicates or bentonites which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are sold, for example, by Süd-Chemie under the trade name Optigel®.
  • An aluminum silicate which is advantageous in the sense of the present invention is sold, for example, by R.T. Vanderbilt Comp, Ine, under the trade name Veegum®.
  • the various Veegum® types, all of which are advantageous according to the invention, are distinguished by the following compositions
  • Bentone® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents that are made up of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special types of montmononite.
  • Bentone® types are sold, for example, by Kronos Titan and can be used advantageously in the sense of the present invention: Bentone® 27, an organically modified montmoonlonite, Bentone® 34 (dimethyldioctylammonium bentonite), which is produced according to US Pat. No.
  • Bentone® 38 is an organically modified montmoonlonite, a cream-colored to white powder, Bentone® LT, a purified clay mineral Bentone® Gel MIO an organically modified montmo ⁇ llonite, which is offered in fine suspension in mineral oil (SUS-71) (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3 3% wetting agent), bentone ® Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite suspended in isopropylmynstat (10% bentonite 86.7% isopropyl my ⁇ stat, 3 3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel CAO, an organically modified montmonllonite, which is absorbed in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% ricinusol and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone® Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmonllonite, which in paste form for further processing, especially for the production of cosm 10% benton
  • preparations can advantageously also contain one or more hydrocolloids from one or more of the following groups
  • organic natural compounds such as agar agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, algmate, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casem,
  • organic modified natural substances such as carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose or the like,
  • organic, fully synthetic compounds such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously comprise copolymers which are distinguished by the following structural formula (I)
  • R 1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 4 to 40 carbon atoms
  • R 2 -OCH 3 or - ⁇ (CH 2 CH 2 0) x R 1 ,
  • X is an integer from 1 to 100
  • n an integer from 100 to 250
  • Particularly advantageous copolymers for the purposes of the present invention are those for which n is an integer from 150 to 200. It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if, in addition, R 1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 8 to 12 carbon atoms represents
  • Polyether-1 is also particularly advantageous according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual. Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are preparations for the care of the skin, they can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment of the skin and / or hair and as Serve make-up product in decorative cosmetics Another advantageous embodiment of the present invention consists in after-sun products
  • cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as a skin protection cream, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations
  • the preparations according to the invention can also represent “cleansing foams” which are used, for example, to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild wash foam - possibly also for impure skin -
  • cleaning foams can advantageously also be used as so-called “ ⁇ nse off” preparations which are rinsed off the skin after use
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of a foam for the care of the hair or the scalp, in particular a foam for inserting the hair, a foam which is used for blow-drying the hair, a hairdressing and treatment foam
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • Aerosol containers according to the invention are spray devices with a filling of the liquid or pulp-like substances which are under the pressure of a propellant (compressed gas or aerosol packs).
  • propellant compressed gas or aerosol packs
  • Such containers can be equipped with valves of very different designs, which allow the contents to be removed as foam.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously be taken from propellant gas-free, mechanically operated pump atomizers (pump dispensers).
  • pump dispensers Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are pump systems that work without compressed gas, but with a filter that causes special turbulence.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore preferably be removed, for example, from two-chamber aerosol containers and applied to the skin.
  • Packaging materials which are advantageous according to the invention are containers in which there is a chamber with a filling of the liquid or slurry-like preparations under the pressure of a standing primary blowing agent located in a second chamber.
  • Such containers can be equipped with valves of very different designs, which make it possible to remove the contents of the first chamber as an emulsion or gel in any position - even with the valve downwards.
  • An advantageous embodiment are BiCan ® aerosol containers, in which the product is enclosed in a flexible bag made of metal or plastic inside the can.
  • Post-foaming compositions according to the invention are non-foamed, that is to say immediately after they emerge from an aerosol container, two- or multi-phase systems - generally emulsions. They can already be rubbed lightly, for example in the hands or when applied and rubbed on the Skin, but also by stirring or other foam processes to foam
  • the self-foaming can be delayed after exiting the pressure packaging
  • the pressure gas containers used are primarily cylindrical vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, content ⁇ 1000 mL), protected or non-splintering glass or plastic (content ⁇ 220 mL) or splintering glass or plastic (content ⁇ 150 mL) in question, when choosing pressure and fracture resistance, corrosion resistance, easy fillability, if necessary stencilability etc., but also aesthetic aspects, handiness, printability etc. play a role
  • the maximum permissible operating pressure of metal spray cans at 50 ° C is 12 bar and the maximum full volume at this temperature is approx. 90% of the total volume.
  • Cans made of tinplate, aluminum and glass are particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • metal cans can be coated on the inside (silver or gold lacquered), for which purpose all commercially available interior protective lacquers are suitable.
  • Polyester, epoxyphenol and polyamideimide lacquers are also preferred for the purposes of the present invention
  • Foil laminations made of polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP) and / or polyethylene terephthalate (PET) inside the cans are advantageous, especially for cans made of tinplate
  • the pressurized gas containers are usually one- or two-part, but usually three-part cylindrical, conical or differently shaped. If plastics are used as spray-container material, they should be gas-tight, impact-resistant and resistant to chemical and sterilization temperatures and stable against internal pressure above 12 bar. In principle for spray - Containers- Polyacetals and polyamides are suitable
  • Valves advantageous according to the invention can be designed with or without a riser pipe.
  • the individual parts from which valves according to the invention are usually constructed preferably consist of the following materials
  • Sealing natural or synthetic elastomers or thermoplastic (sleeve gaskets, film-lined from PE or PP) inner and outer seals e.g. from Perbunan, Buna, neoprene, butyl, CLB, LDPE, Viton, EPDM, chlorobutyl, bromobutyl and / or various compounds Cone PA, POM, brass and various special materials
  • Standard bores e.g. 0.25 to 0 70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm
  • various shaft diameters e.g. 0.25 to 0 70 mm or 2 x 0.45 to 2 x 1.00 mm
  • Spring metal particularly preferably V2A, stainless steel, plastic and also elastomer
  • Riser pipe plastic (polymer resin), e.g. PE, PP, PA or polycarbonate
  • Advantageous spray heads for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, foam heads for upright use (holding the can vertically) or foam heads for overhead use with one or more channels
  • the usual "classic" volatile, liquefied propellants such as dimethyl ether (DME) and / or linear or branched chain hydrocarbons with two to five carbon atoms (such as in particular ethane, propane, butane, isobutane and / or pentane) are suitable as blowing agents, all of these or can be used in a mixture with one another
  • Compressed air and other pressurized gases such as air, oxygen, nitrogen, hydrogen, helium, krypton, xenon radon, argon, laughing gas (N 2 0) and carbon dioxide (C0 2 ) are also advantageous as propellants in the sense of the present invention (both individually and in any mixtures with each other)
  • the gases mentioned can be used individually or in any mixtures with one another
  • the volume fraction of propellant gas is advantageously selected in the range from 0.1 to 30% by volume, based on the total volume of filling material and propellant gas (corresponding to a volume fraction of 70 to 99 9% by volume filling material)
  • particularly preferred propellant gas is carbon dioxide.
  • Foams which contain carbon dioxide as one or the active ingredient and are obtainable from preparations according to the invention are particularly advantageous
  • foams according to the invention are foamed with the aid of linear or branched-chain, halogenated or non-halogenated hydrocarbons.
  • Very particularly advantageous foams are produced by foaming the preparations according to the invention with carbon dioxide, oxygen, compressed air, helium, krypton, Xenon, radon, argon and / or nitrogen (both individually and in any mixture with each other) available
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, for example preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances Fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those sold under the trade names Koncyl-L Koncyl-S and Konkaben LMB by available from Lonza), parabens, phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or derivatives thereof are the antioxidant or antioxidants, is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from Be ⁇ 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation , to choose.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, with Active ingredients are antioxidants that can protect the skin from oxidative stress
  • active substances within the meaning of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as, for example, alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavo- noide, creatine, taunn and / or ß-alanine
  • Recipes according to the invention which contain, for example, known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (in particular ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageously suitable for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described in skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and the formation of wrinkles due to dryness, itching, reduced oily fat (e.g.
  • formulations according to the invention can also have an anti-wrinkle effect or considerably increase the effect of known anti-wrinkle active ingredients. Accordingly, formulations in the sense of the present invention are particularly advantageously suitable for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those which occur, for example, during skin aging they are suitable against the appearance of dry or rough skin
  • the present invention therefore relates to products for the care of the naturally aged skin and for the treatment of the consequential damage of light aging, in particular the phenomena listed above
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol diols or polyols with low C Number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, Glycenn, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and moisturizers
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol diols or polyols with low C Number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, Glycenn, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or mono
  • Moistunters are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or the hydration of the horn after application or distribution on the skin surface - to influence the layer positively
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water loss
  • Advantageous Moistunzer for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycene, lactic acid, pyrrohdonecarboxylic acid and urea. It is also particularly advantageous to use polymeric Moistunzer from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides for example hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and is available, for example, under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, especially if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases they are identical to the dyes approved for foodstuffs.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 0 3 , Fe 3 0 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colounsts, Bradford, England, 1971
  • formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to use one or more substances as the dye.
  • 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'- phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red
  • 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1- naphthol-4-sulfo-acid calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1, 2'-azonaphthal ⁇ n-1'-sulfo acid, calcium and Ba ⁇ - salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2 -naphthylcarboxylic acid
  • ollosh natural dyes such as paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are preferred. 1 Natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example,
  • pearlescent pigments are, for example, powdered pigments or castor sol dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica.
  • the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163, for example, is particularly advantageous
  • pearlescent pigment types based on ghmer / metal oxide are also advantageous, for example
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • Other metal oxides such as. B. silica and the like.
  • Ronaspheren Ti0 2 and Fe 2 0 3 coated Si0 2 particles
  • iron pearlescent pigments are manufactured by mica which without the USAGE ⁇ dung.
  • Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF
  • effect pigments which are sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech.
  • the god particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140 77007, 77289 77491)
  • the dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously in the range from, for example, 0.1% by weight. % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations
  • UV protection substances For example, day creams or makeup products usually use UV A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection for the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable
  • the preparations preferably contain, in addition to one or more UV filter substances according to the invention, at least one further UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance.
  • the formulations may also contain one or more organic and / or or contain inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be in the water and / or oil phase
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature and / or one or more silicone derivatives as a further phase.
  • Oil-free formulations in the sense of the present invention can advantageously also contain other lipophilic components - such as lipophilic active ingredients
  • Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diophenylacrylate (INCI octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethyl- hexylsalicylate, octylsacylate, INCI octyl sahylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate (4-methoxycinnamate), 4-me
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (T ⁇ 0 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe 2 0 3 ), zirconium (Zr ⁇ 2 ), silicon (S ⁇ 0 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 0 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 0 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaS0 4 )
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions.
  • Dispersion auxiliaries and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can then consist of the pigments being coated with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer.
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also alumina, CAS No. 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 3 ) 6 , Sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (S ⁇ 2 ) (also silica, CAS No. 7631-86-9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 0 3 )
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al aluminum hydroxide Al
  • Al oxide hydrate also alumina, CAS No. 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate NaP0 3
  • NaP0 3 sodium metaphosphate
  • silicon dioxide S ⁇ 2
  • Silica also silica, CAS No. 7631-86-9
  • iron oxide Fe 2 0 3
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauenic acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethyl units) and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed
  • An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-b ⁇ s- (6- (2H-benzot ⁇ azol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI bisoctyl-t ⁇ azol], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH
  • Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methande ⁇ vate, in particular 4- (tert -Butyi) -4'-methoxyd ⁇ benzoylmethan (CAS No. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as, for example
  • Neo Hehopan AP is available from Haarmann & Reimer, • Salts of 2-phenylbenz ⁇ m ⁇ dazol-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or T ⁇ -ethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No.
  • Terephtalidene dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex, • sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene- methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornyl ⁇ denmethyl) sulfonic acid and its salts
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, T ⁇ azinden ⁇ vate, such as
  • Dioctylbutylamidot ⁇ azon (INCI Dioctylbutamidot ⁇ azone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V,
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-b ⁇ s- (6- (2H-benzotr ⁇ azol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemikahen GmbH
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzot ⁇ azol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( t ⁇ methyls ⁇ lyl) oxy] d ⁇ - s ⁇ loxanyl] propyl] -phenol (CAS No. 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Tnsiloxane
  • the UV filter substances can be ole-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous ole-soluble filter substances are, for example, • 3-benzyl camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzyl) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor,
  • 4-Amino benzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester, 2,4,6-trianiline (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) - 1,3 5-tr ⁇ az ⁇ n, • esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
  • Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are, for example
  • Sulphonic acid derivatives of 3-benzyl-iodide camphor such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornyl-iodomethyl) benzenesulphonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornyl-iodomethyl) sulphonic acid and their
  • Astire accordance with the invention to be used advantageously üchtschutzfiltersubstanz is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-d ⁇ phenylacrylat (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ® N 539
  • Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane vate [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4 '-methoxyd ⁇ benzoylmethan], Benzotnazolde ⁇ vate [for example the 2,2'-methylene-b ⁇ s- (6- (2H-benzot ⁇ azol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) - phenol)], phenylene -1, 4-b ⁇ s- (2-benz ⁇ m ⁇ dazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1, 4-d ⁇ (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornyl ⁇ denmethyl) - Benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-B ⁇ s - ⁇
  • Emulsion I wt% vol%
  • Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agent and swelling of the hydrocolloid and the polymer with stirring in the water phase combining the fat phase heated to 75 ° C with the water phase heated to 70 ° C, adding the particulate hydrophobic, hydrophobized solid substances with stirring, homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator Principle) at 65 ° C. 45 mm stirring while gassing with nitrogen at 0.7 bar and cooling. Adding the additives at 30 ° C (perfume, active ingredients). Homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 27 ° C.
  • Example 2 (foam-shaped O / W lotion): Emulsion II wt -% vol -%
  • Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.50 PEG-30 stearate 3.00
  • Predispersion of the inorganic gelling agents and swelling of the hydrocolloid and the polymer with stirring in the water phase Combination of the fat and pigment phase heated to 78 ° C with the water phase heated to 75 ° C.
  • Add the aluminum starch octenyl succinate, the manioc starch of the perfume and the active ingredients at 30 ° C.
  • Homogenization using a gear rim dispersing machine (rotor-stator principle) at 25 ° C.
  • Example 5 (foam-shaped O / W cream): Emulsion V wt% vol%
  • Example 7 (foam-shaped sun protection cream): Emulsion VII% by weight% by volume

Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, automoussantes, sous forme de mousse, à moussage ultérieur ou moussantes, qui contiennent au moins une cire et/ou un lipide solide ou semi-solide à température ambiante.
EP02800061A 2001-09-27 2002-08-16 Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques, automoussantes, sous forme de mousse, a moussage ulterieur ou moussantes, contenant des cires et/ou des lipides solides et/ou semi-solides a temperature ambiante Withdrawn EP1432384A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10147820 2001-09-27
DE10147820A DE10147820A1 (de) 2001-09-27 2001-09-27 Selbstschäumende, schaumförmige, nachschäumende oder schäumbare kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an Wachsen bzw. bei Raumtemperatur festen und/oder halbfesten Lipiden
PCT/EP2002/009156 WO2003028676A2 (fr) 2001-09-27 2002-08-16 Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques, automoussantes, sous forme de mousse, a moussage ulterieur ou moussantes, contenant des cires et/ou des lipides solides et/ou semi-solides a temperature ambiante

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