US1687459A - Welt and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 9, 1928.

H. LYON WELT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Original Filed Feb. 25., 1924 \in order to present the finished welt of Patented Oct. 9, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT "OFFICE.

HARRY LYON, OF BROCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNO R TO JOHN A. BARBOUR, 0F

BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, AND PERLEY E. BARBOUR, OF QUINCY, MASSA- CHUSETTS, DOING- BUSINESS AS BARBOUR WELTING COMPANY, OF BROCKTON,

MASSACHUSETTS.

WELT AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed February 25, 1924, Serial No. 694,814. Renewed February 29, 1928.

This invention relates to welts for shoes more especially of that type which is pro- Vided with a bead or rib projecting from its upper face and formed to lie in the crease between the upper and the top face of the welt in the finished shoe.

According to this invention the rib or head is completely out from the continuous blank strip of welting and is then so formed and united thereto that the smooth grain surface of the leather is presented over the upper exposed face of the welt including the rib.

The blank strip may be colored in stripes or other pattern formation as may be desired pleasing or distinctive appearance.

' For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may be had to the accompanying drawings in which Figure 1 is a cross section of the blank strip.

Figure 2 is a similar view showing a layer split from the grain side thereof and the opposite face formed with a stitch-receiving groove;

Figure 3 shows in section the base portion of the strip having a section cut to form a portion of the bead. t

Figure 4 shows the remaining base portion beveled.

Figure 5 shows in section the core strip out to form. a

Figure 6 shows a section of the finished welt.

Figure 7 is a detail section through a portion of a finished shoe showing the welt in position.

Figure 8- is a section illustrating a different method of cutting and forming up the head from the blankstrip.

Figure 9 is a similar View of the complete welt made up from the parts shown in Figure 8.

Figures 10 and 11 are fragmentary plans of blank strips colored in various ways.

Figure 12' is a perspective of a section of the completed welt formed in the manner shown in Figure 9 and colored as shown in Figure 10.

A continuous strip of blank welting material built up of sections cut from the hide and fixed together end to end to form a continuous length as by scarfing and cementing in the usual manner is indicated at 1 in Figure 1. A thin layer is cut from the grain side of this strip as shown at 2 in Figure 2, leaving a base or foundation portion 3 in the lower face of which may be formed the stitchreceiving groove 4. A strip 5 is then cut from one edge of this base 3, as shown in Figure 3, and the remaining portion of the base is then beveled as shown at 6 in Figure 4. The strip 5 cut from the base is also beveled to substantially triangular cross section, as shown at 7 in Figure 5. This strip is superposed on the base 3, as shown in Figure 6, and made fast thereto, and the strip 2 is fixed to the upper face of the base 3, arching over and'partly enclosing or wrapping the core strip 5 as shown in Figure 6, thus forming'a bead extending longitudinally of the welt between its side edges and presenting a surface continuous With the surface of the welt at either side thereof and presenting the finished grain side of the leather. This finished welting strip is employed in the usual manner in the shoe, the rib 8 being positioned within the crease between the upper 9 (see Figure 7,) and the upper face of the welt as at 10. The inseam stitches llpass from the groove 4.- through the base portion 3 and the strip 2 inwardly of the rib. The outsole stitches shown at 12 pass through the welt outwardly of the rib 8 and through the outer sole 13. It will thus be seen that the strip 2 is held in position not only'by the cement used when the welt is formed, but also by both the inseam and outsole stitches so that cementing alone is not relied upon to hold the parts in position in the finished shoe' and that the triangular shape of the core strip produces an inner sloping face for the bead which fits snugly against the shoe upper adjacent to the sole.

In place of forming the core strip separate from the cover strip 2 it may be formed integraltherewith as illustrated in Figures 8, 9 and 12. Where this is desired a Waste strip 15 is cut from the blank along one edge leaving a thin flange portion 16 on the grain side ofthe material. A diagonal'incision 17 is made from the lower face of the blank strip and an incision 18 is'made from the opposite edge of the blank strip parallel with the upper face thereof and meeting the incision 17. With this method of cutting the blank strip a core piece .19 of substantially diamond cross section is formed integral with the covering layer 20. This core strip is then partially wrapped within the cover strip as illustrated in Figure 9 and the parts cemented to the upper face of the base 21 to form the completed welt. In appearance this is substantially the same as that produced by the first method described except that the inner wall of the head is steeper. In both cases the use of the core strip which is of nearly the entire thickness of the welt insures a sufficient overlap of the scarfed ends of the individual strips from which the continuous blank is made to insure proper joints in the head portion of the finished welt. If desired the cover strip may be colored to present any desired pattern or distinctive appearance. As shown in Figure 10 a black or other colored stripe is formed between the side edges of the cover strip, and in Figure 11 a series of cross stripes 31 are shown. \Vhen the stripe shown at 30 1s employed, it causes the rib to present the color of the stripe while the marginal portions 10 of the welt outwardly of the rib 8 presents a different color as illustrated in Figure 12. Of course any other desired marking may be employed, depending on the effect desired in the finished welt. The ornamentation of the welt is not claimed in this application but is claimed in the divisional application Serial Number 116,27 5, filed June 16, 1926, for ornamental shoe welt and method of producing the ornamentation.

Having thus described certain embodiments of this invention it should be evident to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from its spirit or scope as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. The method of making a welt which comprises severing a layer from the grain side of a leather strip, and fixing to the upper face of the body of the strip blank the said layer partly wrapped about a leather core strip of greater thickness than said layer, thereby to form a head between its edges on one face of said body. 1 I

2. The method of making a welt which comprises severing from a leather strip blank both a thin layer on the grain side, and a core strip of greater thickness than said layer, and fixing the core and layer partly wrapped t-hereabout to the cut face of the strip blank.

3. The method of making a welt which comprises severing from a leather strip blank both a thin layer on the grain side, and a core strip of substantially the thickness of the remainder of said blank, integral with said layer, and fixing the core and layer to the cut face of the strip blank.

4. A welt comprising a strip base, a leather core strip made fast to one face thereofbetween its side edges, and a leather layer thinner than said core strip and separate from.

said base partially enclosing said core strip and made fast to the surface of said base at one side of said core strip.

5. A welt comprising a strip base, a leather core strip made fast to one face thereof between its side edges, and a leather layer thinner than said core strip and separate from said base partially enclosing said core strip and integral therewith and made fast to the surface of said base at one side of said core strip.

In testimony whereof I have aflixed my signature.

HARRY LYON.

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