US1693174A - Ballet slipper and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

Nov, 27, 1928. 1,693,174

S. CAPEZIO BALLET SLIPPER AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Oct. 22, 1927 0. I I b 2 I l a 20 zo gls II a 1 v 17 IO Patented Nov. 27, 1928,

UNITED STATES 1,693,174 PATENT OFFICE;

SALVATORE GAPEZIO, OF EAST IPATERSON, NEW JERSEY.

BALLET SLIPPER AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME.

Application filed October 22, 1927. Serial No. 227,908.

This invention relates to the art of making ballet slippers for toe dancers, and has special reference to the provision of a ballet slipper embodying improvements in the construction and contour of the slipper bottom and to the method of making the same.

In the manufacture of ballet or toe dancing slippers, an embryo slipper is first produced by attachingas by sewing the slipper upper to the sole thereof while both are snugly fitted onto and stretched over a shaping form or last. This embryo assembly is then removed from the last and turned; and after inserting and attaching the shank of the slipper to the embryo assembly to form the completed assembly, the slipper is closely fitted onto a second forming device or last which may be similar to the first, on which the slipper, some of the parts of which are in a moist and-pliable condition, is permitted to dry and set for an extended period of time, such for example as 48 hours. \Vhen removed from the last, the slipper assumesand retains the shape and form characteristic of toe dancing slippers.

In prior methods of manufacturing these ballet slippers, the construction and configuration of the shaping forms or lasts employed were such as to impart to the bottom of the completed slipper a longitudinal curvature for producing a relatively high arch combined with a transverse curvature over the frontal area of the slipper bottom opposite in direction to the longitudinal curvature when viewed from the top of the slip-per The configuration thus imparted to the slipper bottom was a longitudinal convexity combined with a transverse concavity over the frontal area of the slipper bottom, this being produced by the use of lasts the tread or uppe" surface of which was transversely bellied or convexed, particularly at the front or sole portion thereof.

I have discovered that this configuration of opposing transverse and longitudinal curvatu-res thus imparted to the slipper bottoms is the source of a number of defects and disadvantages inherentin ballet slippers of prior manufacture. A prime desideratum in ballet slippers is the provision of a slipper bottom which possesses a high flexibility along a lrmgitudinal curvature, since such a flexibility permits the greatest comfort and ease in dancing when the dancer is both on toes an and off toes. However, by imparting to the slipper bottom transverse and longitudiging into the foot of the dancer.

nal curvatures of opposite directions, the desired curvilinear flexibility along a transverse axis of the slipper bottom is greatly resisted, with the result that the slipper does not fit when new and in most cases has to be conditioned for use by the dancer by hand bending or breaking of the sole and shank sections of the slipper.

This transverse curvature formed in the slipper bottoms of the prior art produced a transverse concavity in the shank of the slip per (viewed from the inside) and a transverse convexity for the sole of the slipper (viewed from the outside), both of which give rise to further objections. The convexity of the outer sole produces a rocking and therefore unstable support for the dancer and the transverse concavity of the inner shank produces a shape which does not readily conform to the dancers foot and one which is difiicul't to flatten because the high points thereof occur at the sides of the dancers foot,

while the full weight of the dancer is applied at the ball or central part of the foot. The upturned sides of the shank moreover have the effect of cramping and biting or dig- This cramping eflect is all the more aggravated by the fact that in order not to cause too great a resistance to longitudinal flexure, the shanks of the prior art are made smaller in lateral dimensions than the corresponding dimension of the slipper bottom, so that these upturned edges of the shank are in a position to affect the sides of the dancers foot.

The prime object of my presentinvention centers about the provision of a new and improved slipper bottom and a novel method for making the bottoms of ballet slippers whereby all of the foregoing disadvantages and 0 jections are efiectively obviated and overcome. In accordance with my present invention, the ballet slipper bottom in either one or both of the slipper shaping steps is given a contour so that the transverse curvature, at least at the frontal portion of the slipper bottom, is not in an opposing direction from and is preferably in the same direction as the longitudinal curvature, such curvatures being longitudinally convex and transversely convexewhen viewed from the upper side of the slipper. To accomplish this object, I have designed a new last over which the slipper bottom as well as the slipper upper is shaped and to the shape of which it is conformed; and the novel construction of such forming means or last is a further feature of my invention.

With the configuration of the slipper bottoms thus produced, I am enabled to make ballet or toe dancing slippers having the desired bending fiexure or longitudinal flexibility, so that it is unnecessary to break in the slipper prior to use. Furthermore, the construction and configuration are moreover such that tipping from side to side is prevented and a balancing support for the foot is obtained. Moreover, the resulting configuration produces an arch which not only instantly conforms to the shape of the foot, fitting the same snugly when the dancer is on or off toes and with a gripping support, but one which eliminates cramping and provides for a maximum of wearing comfort.

To the accomplishment of the foregoing and such other objects as will hereinafter appear, my invention consists in the elements and their relation one to the other as hereinafter more particularly described; reference being had to the accompanying drawings which show the preferred embodiment of my invention, and in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a toedancing slipper embodying the principles of my invention and showing parts broken away.

Figs. 2 and 3 are transverse and longitudinal cross-sectional views showing the last and the embryo slipper applied thereto in the first forming or shaping step used in the manufacture of the slipper- Figs. 4 and 5 are transverse and perspective'views, With parts in cross-section, of the last and the completed slipper in the second forming or shaping step used in the manufacture of the slipper, and

Fig. 6 is a top plan diagrammatic View of the last showing the sole and shank applied thereto. I

' Referring now more in detail to the drawings, and having reference first to Fig. 1 thereof, the improved ballet or dancing slipper of my invention comprises in its completed construction an upper 10 which is attached to an outer sole 11 and an inner shank 12, the toe dancing slipper also preferably embodying an improved reinforced and cushion toe construction generally designated as 14 and described more particularly and claimed inmy copending application Ser. No.

227,907 filed October 22, 1927.

The outer sole 11 and the inner shank 12 comprise compositely the improved slipper bottom of my present invention, this composite construction having a longitudinal curvature indicated by the dot-dash line 15 and a transverse curvature over a substantial frontal area thereof in the same direction as the longitudinal curvature and indicated by the dot-dash line 16. These curvatures may be *described with reference to the interior of the shoe as being longitudinally and transverse- 1y convex, the longitudinal convexity producing a relatively high arch and the transverse convexity producing the desired balancing foot support and other characteristics referred to hereinabove and described further in detail hereinbelow. 4

Referring now to Figs. 2 and 3 of the drawings, I show the first lasting or shaping step of the process of manufacturing the improved slipper of my invention. The sole 11 is first applied to the tread or upper surface portion 17 of a shaping form or last 18, the sole 11 being made to conform to the last by rendering the sole pliable through a moistening operation. and by temporarily attaching the sole to the tread portion of the last as by nails 19, 19. The upper surface or. tread portion 17 of the last is concave along both the major longitudinal axis and the minor transverse axis at least over the frontal or sole portion of the last, as is clearly shown in Figs.

with this configuration of the last it will be manifest that the sole 11 assumes a similar configuration or shape for properly shaping and dimensioning the embryo slipper assembly in this first operation.

The upper 10 consisting of a plurality of layers of fabric such as an outer cover layer 10 and a pair of lining layers 10, 10 is then stretched over the body of the last 18 and applied to the marginal edge or rim of the sole 11, as by means of the peripheral line of stitching 20. At the toe section of the upper the layers of fabric further include a plurality of canvas sheets 21, 21 which are impregnated or coated with a paste or other medium which upon drying imparts a stiffening to the toe of the slipper; and in accordance with my invention as described and claimed in my aforesaid copending application, the cover or outer layer 10 is provided with a strengthenin or reinforcing stitched formation 22 extending both over the front and bottom or underlying portions of the slip-per toe, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 3 of the drawings. In this first shaping operation the lining layer 10", which in the completed slipper forms the innermost lining layer, is left unattached at the toe, as is clearly shown in Fig. 3 of the drawings. The sole 11 is peripherally channelled as at 11 to provide a stitch guide and anchor, and the sole 11 is also provided with a marginal circumferential recess or channel 11" for seating the unattached edge portions of the layers constituting the upper. After the attachment of the upper to the sole, the embryo assembly is removed ready for the next shaping operation.

, Referring now to Figs. 4 and 5 of the drawings, I show the second and final shaping step of the method. The slipper after it is removed fromthe last 18 is first turned inside out. The inner shank .12 is then applied in position, the meeting or adjoining inner faces of the sole 11 and shank 12 being first coated with a suitable paste or other adhesive. As shown and described in my aforesaid copending application, I embody a cushioning medium or pad in the toe of the slipper, and this is done by now inserting a cushioning pad 10 at the toe section of the slipper over which the still free or unattached section of the illner lining 10 is applied, the inner face of the said lining section being preferably coated with a flexible cement. The bottom or free edge of the toe section of the lining 10 is understood that most of the sections of the and transversely,

upper as well as the sole and shank are now in a moist state; and with the parts assembled as described; the slipper is now ready for the second shaping operation.

For thesecond shaping operation, I employ a second last 23 having a body and tread portion substantially similar to the last 18 used in the first operation. However, where I embody a cushioning pad in the slipper toe I make the toe of the last 23 relatively blunt, as shown at 23 in Fig. 5, in comparison with the more pointed last toe as shown at 18 in Fig. 3 of the drawings. The tread portion 24 of the last 23 is also concaved longitudinally particularly over the frontal area of the last, as clearly shown in Figs. 5 and 4 respectively of the drawings.

In carrying out the second shaping operation the last 23 is snugly fitted into the completed slipper formation, a snug and hugging fit of the slipper onto the surfaces of the last being obtained in any desired way, as by hammering the last into and on the now well moistened and pliable slipper construction. The upper 10 and the sole 17, having received the dimensioning and forming shape imparted thereto during the first operation, readily assume the condition and configuration shown in Figs. 4 and 5 of the drawings. Both the sole 11 and the shank 12 nest together and conform to the longitudinal and transverse hollow or concavity of the last tread 24, as shown in said Figs. 4 and 5 of the drawings. The slipper is then permitted to remain on the last for a period of time, such as 48 hours, until the slipper is dried and set. When the slipper is removed, it retains the configuration imparted to it by both the side walls and tread face ofthe last in this shaping opera tion.

The improved construction of the slipper bottom will now be manifest from a consideration of the functions produced by the shaping lasts employed and by the advantageous characteristics of the slipper produced. It will be evident first from a consideration of Fig. 1 of the drawings that the similarity in curvatures of the sole and shank indicated by the major and minor axes 15 and 16 permits the optimum longitudinal flexure or bending of the slipper bottom. This curvilinear flexibility about a transverse axis produces a number of desirable results. The flexibility inhibits the need incident to prior shoes of first breaking in the shoe, since it permits that curving yieldability which is characteristic of used shoes. Such longitudinal flexibility moreover provides for equal comfort when the dancer is on-toes and when off toes, and facilitates or allows the pointing of the toes from any extreme angle with the least amount of effort, such flexibility therefore giving rise to great poise, charm and expression in the act of dancing. Furthermore, the inner convexity of the frontal area of the shank 12 as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawings, results in presenting the high point of the shank at the center or ball of the foot so that as the dancer lands on the tread part of the foot the full weight of the dancer is exerted at the central portion of the shank, causing the same to yield comfortably and flatten out under pressure. Conversely as the dancer moves to a toe dancing position the composite shank and sole resume the convex shape due to the inherent resiliency of these parts, so that the shoe instantly conforms to the shape of the foot, fitting snugly and with a gripping support and afl'ording complete comfort when the dancer is on her toes. It will now also be manifest that the transverse convexity of the slipper bottom which yields under pressure to a flattening out of the same eliminates the outer sole convexity inherent in slippers of rior construction, and thus eliminates the roc ing and tipping characteristic of prior slippers, the slipper of my invention on the contrary producing a fully balanced foot support.

Another important advantage of my invention is indicated in Fig. 6 of the drawings, wherein I show the relative dimensions and arrangement of the shank 12 and sole11 on the last 23. It will be noted that the sole 11 is substantially smaller, both lengthwise and crosswise, than the shank 12, and that the front or sole portion of the shank 12 is equal in dimensions, particularly transversely with the tread portion 24 of the last 23. This is also clearly shown in Figs. 4 and 5 of the drawings. By making the shank convex transversely, I am enabled to increase the lateral or transverse dimension thereof in comparison with that of the prior art, so that the width of the shank is substantially equal tothe width ofthe shp- I lit per bottom. In prior art constructions this since the increasing of the width thereof re- 'sulted in reducing the longitudinal flexibility and thus increasing the resistance to comfortable wear. Where, however, the curvatures of the body of the slipper bottom are made in accordance with the present invention, permitting the maximum degree of longitudinal flexure, the width of the shank may be increased to its maximum limit. Thereby it will be seen that the lateral edges 12, 12 of the shank closely abut the side walls of the upper and are removed from possible contact with the dancers foot. All cramping and digging into the dancers foot incident to slippers of the prior art are therefore effectively obviated.

The manner of making ballet slippers for I toe dancers embodying the improvements'of my present invention and the many advantages thereof will in the main be fully apparent from the above detailed description thereof. It will also be apparent that nu merous changes in the process or method and the materials and devices used therein may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention. For example, it is apparent that the first forming or shaping operation need not be similar to the second forming Or shaping operation so long as the sole of the shoe is given the proper predetermined shape and dimensions. It will further be apparent that the concavity of the tread section of the last 23 may be varied within wide limits. It will be further apparent that the convexity of the sole and shank combination p indicated in Fig. 4 of the drawings may be of less degree andmay even be so slight as to result in substantial transverse flatness of the combination. By making the last concave, such flatness may be produced and a number of the advantages of my invention may be secured thereby. However, I prefer to produce the efiect of convexity described for at least the shank portion 12 and preferably for both the shank 12 and the sole 11 to secure most of the advantages of the construction.

It will also be apparent that while I have shown and described my invention in its preferred form, that many changes and modifications may be made in the structure disclosed without departing from the spirit of the invention, defined in the following claims.

I claim:

1. A ballet slipper for toe dancers comprising an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, said shank being convex longitudinally of the slipper to produce a relatively high arch and being convex transversely of the slipper over a substantial frontal areathereof to produce a balancing foot support.

2. A ballet slipper for toe dancers compris ing an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, said shank being convex longitudinally of the slipper to produce a relatively high arch and being convex transversely of the slipper over a substantial frontal area thereof to produce a balancing foot support, the width of the frontal portion of the shank being coextensive with the width of the slipper bottom at such frontal portion.

3. A ballet slipper for toe dancers comprising an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, said shank being convex longitudinally of the slipper to produce a relatively high arch and being convex transversely of the slipper over a substantial frontal area thereof to produce a balancing foot support, and the said sole conforming in shape to that of the shank.

4:. A ballet slipper. for toe dancers comprising an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said soleand shank, said. shank being convex longitudinally of the slipper to produce a relatively high arch and being convex transversely of the slipper over a substantial frontal area thereof to produce a balancing foot support, the frontal portion of the shank having a width such that the side edges of the shank snugly fit the said upper.

' 5. A ballet slipper for toe dancers comprising an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, said sole and shank being united together face to face and being shaped convexly longitudinally of the slipper to provide a substantially high arch and convexly transversely of the slip-per at least at the frontal area thereof to rovide a balancing foot support.

6. A ballet slipper for toe dancers comprising an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, the

said shank having longitudinal and lateral dimensions greater than those of the sole, said sole and shank being united together inner face to inner face and being shaped convexly longitudinally of the slipper to provide a substantially high arch and convexly transversely of the slipper at least at the frontal area thereof to provide a balancing foot support.

7. A ballet slipper for toe dancers comprising an outer sole,-an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, said shank being shaped convexly longitudinally of the slipper to provide a substantially high arch and convexlytransversely of the slipper at least at the frontal area thereof to provide a balancing foot support, the said shank being ourvilinea-rly flexible along both longitudinal and transverse axes.

8. A ballet slipper for toe dancers comprising an outer sole, an inner shank and an upper attached to said sole and shank, said sole and shank being united together face to face and being shaped convexly longitudinally of the slipper to provide a substantially high a balancing foot support, the sole and shank being flexible along both a longitudinal and transverse curvature. I

9. In the method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers, the steps of finally shaping the slipper to the last which consist in applying the slipper to a last having a tread portion which is longitudinally concave and laterally concave at least over the frontal portion thereof and of causing the shank of the slipper to conform longitudinally and transversely to the concavities of the tread portion of the last.

10. In the method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers, the steps of finally shaping the slipper to the lastwwhich consist in applying the slipper to a last having a tread portion which is longitudinally concave and laterally concave over the frontal portion thereof and of causing the shank and sole of the slipper to conform longitudinally and transversely to the concavities of the tread portion of the last.

11. In the method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers, the steps of finally shaping the slipper to the last which consists in inserting in the slipper a shank having frontal lateral dimension-s equal to that of a last, in applying the slipper to the last, the last having a tread ortion which is longitudinally concave an laterally concave overthe frontal portion thereof and of causing the shank of the slipper to conform longitudinally and transversely to the concavities of the tread portion ofthe last. 12. The method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers which consists in causing a sole to conform in shape to a longitudinally and transversely convex tread portion of a last, in then attaching an upper to said sole to produce an embryo slipper in then turning the embryo slipper and afiixing a shank to and withln the sli per, and in then causing said shank to co orm in shape to a second last convexed both longitudinally and laterally similar to the first last.

13. The method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers which consists in causing a sole to conform in shape to a longitudinally and transversely convex tread portion of a last, in then attaching an upper to said sole to produce an embryo slipper, in then turning the embryo slipper and affixing a shank to and within the slipper, and in then causlng said shank and sole to conform in shape to a second last convexed both longitudinally and laterally similar to the first last.

14:. The method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers which consists in impressing a sole into a longitudinally and laterally convex tread portion of a last, attaching an upper to said sole while on the last to produce an embryo slipper, in removing the embryo slipper from the last and applying a cushioning pad and a shank to the front and bottom sections respectively of the slipper, and in then shaping the slipper on a second last similar in tread configuration to said first last, the said second last having a blunt toe and said first last having a pointed toe.

15. The method of making ballet slippers for toe dancers which consists in impressing a sole into a longitudinally and laterally convex tread portion of a last, attaching an upper to said sole while on the last to produce an embryo slipper, in removing the embryo slipper from the last and applying a cushioning pad and a shank to the front and bottom sections respectively of the slipper, and in then shaping the slipper on a second last iimilar'in tread configuration to said first ast.

Signed at New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, Q,ct., A.

SALVATORE CAPEZIO.

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