US169468A - Improvement in tailors patterns - Google Patents

Description

4 Sheets- Sheet1. J'. H. NICHOLS. muons PATTERN. Y N 169 468; Patented Nov. 2, 1875.

,WITN ESSE V INVENTOR y, v fi I ATTORNEYS N, PETERS. PHOTO-UTHOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON, D c.

4 Sheets-Sheet 2. J. H. NICHOLS.

muons PATTERN.

- Patented Nov. 2, 1875.

WITNE S S llllllllllllll g ATTORNEYS N PETERS. PHOTO-LITHDGRAPHER. WASHINGTON. D C.

v 4S heetsSheet3. J. H. NICHOLS.

TAILORS PATTERN. No I 169 i 468 I Patented Nov. 2, 1875.

T S r iNVEN-TOR ATTORNEYS N. PETERS, PHOTO-LITHOGkAPnER, WASHINGTON. D

4 sheets sh ete J. H. NICHOLS.

' v muons PATTERN. No.169',468. Patented Nov. 2, 1875.

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v INVENTCIJR ATTORNEYS MPEYERS, FHOTO-LITHOGRAPNER, WASHINGTON. D C.

NITED STATES PATENT QFFICE JAMES H. NICHOLS, OF BoS'roN, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN TAILORS PATTERNS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 169,468, dated November 2, 1875; application filed March 27, 1875.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JAMES H. N IGHOLS, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and valuable Improvement in Means for Cutting Garments; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings making a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

Figurel of the drawings is a representation of the front chart. Fig. 2 is a view of the back chart. Fig. 3 is a view of the sleeve-back chart. Fig. 4. is a view of the sleeve-front chart. Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail.

This invention has relation to means for facilitating the cutting of dress-coats and frockcoats; and it consists in the construction and novel arrangement of a set of charts for the back and front of the body, and the back and front of the sleeve, each chart having the outlines of the largest and smallest sizes in use, said outlines being connected at the corners thereof, and other prominent points of curvature, by either a series of perforations or straight slots, with accompanying scales for the intermediate sizes, as hereinafter shown and described.

In the accompanying drawings, the letter a designates the outline of the largest size in general use on each chart. 12 indicates. the outline of the smallest size. These outlines are determined according to rules the principles of which are well understood.

In the case of the chart of the front of the body, (represented in Fig. l of the drawings,) the shoulder-seams of the largest and Smallest sizes are, respectively, lettered a b the neckoutlines a 12 the front-outlines a 12 the waistseams a b, the side seams a b and the armholes a b It will be observed that the outline of the arm-hole a. of the largest size cuts the outline of the shoulder b of the smallest size at c. A similar intersection at a may be observed in the case of the chart of the back or under sleeve, Fig. 4. From the point where the lines a and a join each other a slotted line or a line of perforations is carried to the point Where the lines b and b join, asuitable scale,

d, being marked upon thechart along said line, to indicate all the intermediate sizes in general use.

If perforations are employed one hole must be made opposite each size-line of the scale, as indicated in the detailed view, Fig. 5 of the drawings, at e 6.

When the size-lines occur very close together, as when the largest outline and the smallest outline approximate each other closely at the lowermost portion of the curves of the armsizes, slots n are preferable.

All the prominent points of the outline a, and such of the intermediate points as may be found desirable, are connected in a similar manner with the corresponding points of the outline b, a slot or a series of perforations being provided in each case, and sealed for the intermediate sizes, as above described.

These charts are preferably constructed of thin board and mounted with metallic binding, and will be found very useful to the trade, as the necessity of scheming the pattern for each separate size is obviated.

Knowing the size required, it is only necessary to lay the chart upon the pattern-paper, and with a pencil mark the points of the Size through the Slots or perforations thereon. Then, removing the chart, connect the points by the outline inthe usual manner.

To a practical cutter the outlines a, and b are merely indicative, and are not absolutely necessary; but the relations of the smaller,

Sizes to the largest size are essential. In the front it will be observed that the graduated distance between the outlines a and b is about twice as great as the distance between the outlines a and b of the side seam; that these outlines are curved, the front circularly, and the line of side seam more Sharply at its upper pir't; and that these lines of curvature,

are easily fixed, in cutting from this chart," by means of intermediate lines m of graduation. So it will be observed that, in like manner, the distance between the large and small Sizes in the outlines of the shoulder and neck in the upper part of the front is much greater than that between the waist-lines of the same sizes; and that in the back-pattern the same relative enlargement is made at the upper portion, the graduations between the outlines of the .lowerportions being comparatively small.

, [n the arm-sizes it is also apparent that the distauce'bet'ween the upper ends of the curves of the large and small sizes is great, while these curves approximate each other very closely in their lower portions, as seen at n. In the sleeves, on the'other hand,the proportionate lengthening for the larger sizes is greater at the wrist end. In other words, it is found that between men of dit'terent sizes generally the greatest differences in size are found Where the parts have the most freedom in growing.

I am aware that diagram patterns, having outlines for the large and small sizes, are not new; and that it is not new, broadly, to connect such outlines with graduated lines of perforations, in the manner shown in the patent granted to Chas. Lucas, June 13,1848. Hence, I vdo not claim such diagrams; but

What I claim, and desire to secure-by Letters Patent, is-- The set of dress and frock coat charts herein described, having independent outlines of the largest and smallest sizes in use, said outlines extending entirely'around each pattern, crossing each other at c and c inthe front and sleeve patterns, spaced farther apart, proportionally, in the upper and front portions of the body and lower portions of the sleeves, and connected by transverse slots or series of perforations with scales for marking the intermediate sizes, as shown and described.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence of two witnesses.

' JAMES H. NICHOLS. Witnesses:

JOHN B. CoRLIss, GEORGE E. UPHAM.

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