US1948177A - Plait for sport coats and the like - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 20, 1934. R. KARASIC PLAIT FOR D'PORT COATS AND THE LIKE Filed May 5, 1953 INVENTOR QEUBEN KARA SIC B Y A TTORNE Patented Feb. 20, 1934 UNiTED STATES PATENT OFFICE 9 Claims.

This invention relates to new and useful improvements in plaits for sport coats and the like.

The invention has for an object the construction of a plait adapted tobe used in sport coats, for example, leather jackets (wind breakers) or other garments which are characterized by a resilient action tending to normally close the plait.

Still further the invention proposes the provision of a resilient frame associated with the plait in a manner so as to normally urge the plait into a closed position.

Furthermore as another object of this invention it is proposed to arrange the resilient frame with a pair of parallel closely spaced flexible members extending through passages along "the mouth of the plait and adapted to seek a neutral position in which the mouth of the plait is closed.

Still further the invention contemplates the arrangement of rigid connecting members upon the ends of the flexible members so as to hold the resilient frame in a unit. 7

As another one of the objects of this invention it is proposed to construct the flexible members of flat flexible strips arranged in a common plane so as to present great resistance to flexing in the plane but readily flexible from said plane.

Still further the invention proposes arranging the resilient frame within the plait in such a manner so that in addition to the flexible member flexing out from the plane mentioned in the previous paragraph may have a slight torque producing a desirable opening of the plait under stress.

Still further the invention proposes an arrangement whereby the resilient frame is cornposed of closely spaced flexible members and an arrangement whereby these flexible members may be held at adjusted spaced relations to each other so as to control the closed position of the plait.

Still further the invention contemplates the association of the resilient frame in plaits vertically upon the back of a wind breaker extending substantially from the shoulder seam to a seam slightly below the arm pits, and wherein the resilient frame is arranged so that the spaced flexible members are substantially in the same plane as the material forming the back of the garment so that the plait when flat is restrained from opening directly edgewise but is capable of opening in a combination edgewise and transverse motion.

Still further the invention proposes the construction of an article as mentioned which is simple and durable and which may be manufactured and sold at a reasonable cost.

For further comprehension of the invention,

(Cl. 2-93) I 1 and of the objects and advantages thereof, reference will be had to the following description and accompanying drawing, and to the appended claims in which the various novel features of the invention are more particularly set forth.

In the accompanying drawing forming a material part of this disclosure:-

Fig. 1 is a rear elevational view of a leather jacket, (Wind breaker) and plaits constructed according to this invention.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary enlarged horizontal sectional view taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary elevational view of the inner side of the leather jacket showing the area of the plait.

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the resilient frame per se used in the plait construction.

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary edge elevational view looking in the direction of the line 5-5 of Fig. 4.

Fig. 6 is a horizontal sectional view of a modifled form of resilient frame, this view being as though taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 4.

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary perspective view of the upper end of the resilient frame constructed according to another modification of the invention.

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary sectional view taken on line 8-8 of Fig. '7.

Fig. 9 is a plan view of Fig. 8 but illustrated with the cap member removed.

Fig. 10 is a front elevational view of the resilient 5 frame shown in Fig. 4.

The plaits according to this invention may be used in conjunction with the various types of garments and may be of various length depending upon their use only. To simply illustrate the invention the plaits have been shown applied to a leather jacket (wind breaker) in Figs. 1-3 inclusive. Fig. 1 illustrates a rear elevational view of the wind breaker which is shown provided with shoulder seams 10 and a substantially horizontal seam 11 extended from an area slightly below the arm pits. Plaits 12 according to this invention are arranged vertically upon the back of the garment between the shoulder seams 10 and the seam 11. The seam 11 is not truly horizontal since it is composed of two component parts diverging downwards from a point 13 at the vertical central line of the back of the garment.

The plaits 12 are arranged immediately adja-, cent the arm portions of the garment so that they may open when the garment is being worn and the arms are stretched outwards which would. produce a stress upon the back of the garment. Since the plaits open this stress may not be communicatecl to the stitching of the garment nor to the material itself, and so the life of the garment will be materially extended. Each of the plaits 12 have adjacent bent portions 1 and upper and lower ends 15 and 16 respectively, which form the mouth of the plait. The connection at the points 15 and i6 is accomplished by the seams 10 and 11 extended transversely across the opposed bent portions 14.

Each bent portion 14 comprises a front layer 1'7 connected by the bend with a rear layer 18. A line of stitches 19 is extended through the front and rear layers 1'? and 18 of each of the bent portions near the bends thereof dividing off a passage 20. A layer of material 21 connects the outer edges of the rear layers 18 of the bent portions. This connection is accomplished by rows of stitches 22 along the edges of the layer of material 21 and the rear layers 18. The upper and lower ends of the layer of material 21 and the rear layers 18 are secured down upon the front layers 17 by the stitches and form the ' seams 10 and 11 respectively. This is clearly illustrated in Fig. 3.

A resilient frame is associated with the plait and comprises parallel closely spaced flexible ./members 23 extending through the passages 20 and rigid end elements 24 connecting the ends of the flexible members 23. The rigid elements 24 are arranged at angles relative to the flexible elements 23 so as to correspond with the direction of the seams 10 and 11 respectively. Thus the rigid elements 24 may be imbedded between the front layers 17 and the rear layers 18 of the plait, but of course within the seams 10 and 11. The elements 24 are rigidly connected with the The flexible elements 23 are of flat construction, shown in Fig. 2, arranged so as to normally assume positions in a common plane. This plane is substantially identical with the plane of the material 17,

1' that is, the material forming the back of the leather jacket. The flexible members 24 will restrain bending away from each other since they are substantially rigid as to edgewise bending but may very easily bend in the front to rear direction.

The operation of the plait may be understood by examining Fig. 1 and assuming that the arms are pulled apart so as to cause the plaits 12 to open. These plaits may open in the manner indicated by the dot and dash lines in Figs. 2 and 4.

"11 so as to substantially maintain the ends of the flexible members 23 rigid and consequently opening of the plait will necessitate simultaneous twisting and frontwards and rearwards twisting of the flexible members 23.

' The plait may also open in another manner which may be understood by examining Fig. 4; in particular. Assume that before stresses appear which will cause the opening of the plait, the flexible members 23 are caused to simultaneously buckle outwards for example when the garment is being worn and follows the curve upon the back of a person. When the stress now comes the flexible members 23 will torque slightly and flex away from each other substantially as illustrated by the dot and dash lines in Fig. 4. The plait of course will also open if the flexible members 23 were pulled open when buckled inwards. In this case it will also be necessary that the flexible members torque slightly first and then flex away from each other.

In Fig. 6 a slight modified form of the invention has been disclosed in which flexible members 23' have been illustrated distinguishing from the flexible members 23 in the fact that each of the members 23 is composed of a pair of flexible members in face contact with each other. This modified form has been disclosed to bring out the fact that any number of flexible members may be used to construct the resilient frame. It should be noticed that the flexible members 23 which are composed of adjacent contacting but free flexible members, are disposed in the same plane and are held at the ends by the rigid elements 24. In other respects this modified form is similar to the preferred form as to details and operation.

In Figs. 7-9 inclusive another modified form and resilient frame has been disclosed in use in a plait according to this invention. This resilient frame is so arranged that the flexible members may be relatively adjusted in the same plane if desired. This is of advantage in the event that the flexible frame is used on plaits of material which is of different thickness. For example, if the plait is constructed in a leather jacket, the leather is quite thick and necessitates that the flexible members 23 be spaced apart more than if the plait were arranged upon very thin cloth material. tion the flexible frame comprises a pair of parallel closely spaced flexible members 23 adapted to extend through the passages of a plait as previously described relative to the preferred form, and said flexible members being connected at the ends by a rigid element which comprises a pair of opposed strips 2'7 adapted to engage upon the opposite sides of the ends of the flexible members 23.

The strips 27 have their inner faces formed roughened or withserrations 28 so as to frictionally grip the ends of the flexible members. The upper corners of the strips 27 are formed with chamfers 29 so as to facilitate the engagement of a clamp cap 30 thereon. This cap is forced over the strips 2'7 and serves to clamp the ends of the flexible members 23 into a rigid unit. If it is desired to change the relative location of the flexible members 23 it is necessary that the cap 30 be forced from its position over the strips 2']. Then the flexible members 23 may be placed at any positions along the strips 27 and the strips 27 may be placed at various angles relative to the lorrgitudinal lengths of the flexible elements 23. fhereafter the cap 30 may be forced back into place and clamp the ends of the flexible members into a rigidunit. It is to be understood that instead of two plaits, any other number of plaits may be provided in the back of various types of garments.

While I have shown and described the preferred embodiment of my invention, it is to be understood that I do not limit myself to the precise construction herein disclosed and the right is reserved to all changes and modifications coming 1 within the the scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by United States Letters Patent is:

According to this form of the inven- 1. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, a line of stitches through the front and rear layers of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing off passages, a layer or material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, extending through said passages, and eleements rigidly connecting the ends of said flexible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits.

2. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, a line of stitches through the front and rear layer of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing off passages, a layer of material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, ex tending through said passages, and elements rigidly connecting the ends of said flexible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits, said flexible members being flat and disposed in substantially a common plane.

3. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, a line of stitches through the front and rear layers of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing off passages, a layer of material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, extending through said passages, and elements rigidly connecting the ends of said flexible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits, said elements extending slightly past said flexible members so as to assume positions upon said sheet material in a manner so that the ends of the resilient frame are substantially rigid and that flexing thereof takes place along the lengths of said flexible members.

4. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, a line of stitches through the front and rear layers of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing off passages, a layer of material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, extending through said passages, and elements rigidly connecting the ends of said flex ible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits, and each of said flexible members comprising a plurality of adjacent strips.

5. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, a line of stitches through-the front and rear layers of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing on. passages, a-layer of.

material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, extending through said passages, and elements rigidly connecting the ends of said flexible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits, and each of said flexible members comprising a plurality of separate strips placed together and acting as a unit.

6. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, a line of stitches through the front and rear layers of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing off passages, a layer of material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, extending through said passages, and elements rigidly connecting the ends of said flexible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits, said elements being removably arranged and adapted to clamp the flexible members in various relative adjusted positions.

'7. A plait for sport coats, garments and the like, comprising adjacent opposed bent portions of sheet material connected at the ends forming the mouth of the plait, each bent portion comprising a front layer connected by the bend with a rear layer, aline of stitches through the front and rear layers of each bent portion near the bends thereof dividing off passages, a layer of material connecting the outer ends of the rear layers of the bent portions, and a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members, extending through said passages, and elements rigidly connecting the ends of said ilexible members and secured on said sheet material at the ends of said plaits, said elements being removably arranged and adapted to clamp the flexible members in various relative adjusted positions, each element comprising opposed clamping strips upon opposite sides of the ends of said flexible members, and a cap engaged upon said strips to clamp the strips and flexible members as a unit.

8. A wind breaker, comprising leather material in the form of a wind breaker and arranged with shoulder seams and a substantially horizontal seam extending a short distance below the arm pits thereof, and vertical plaits arranged between said shoulder seams and said substantially horizontal seam, each of said vertical plaits including a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members extending through passages at the bends of the plait serving to urge the plait closed, and rigid elements connecting the ends of said flexible members and secured upon the material of the wind breaker substantially at the ends of said plaits.

9. A wind breaker, comprising leather material in the form of a wind breaker and arranged with shoulder seams and a substantially horizontal seam extending a short distance below the arms pits thereof, and vertical plaits arranged between said shoulder seams and said substan tially horizontal seam, each of said vertical plaits including a resilient frame comprising parallel closely spaced flexible members extending through passages at the bends of the pleat serving to urge the plait closed, and rigid elements connecting the ends of said flexible members and 5 secured upon the material of the wind breaker substantially at the ends of said plaits, said ele-

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