US20030166369A1

US20030166369A1 - Durable nonwoven garment exhibiting recoverable extensibility

Info

Publication number: US20030166369A1
Application number: US10/303,211
Authority: US
Inventors: Sergio Diaz de Leon; Lisa Barker
Original assignee: Polymer Group Inc
Current assignee: Avintiv Specialty Materials Inc
Priority date: 2001-04-20
Filing date: 2002-11-25
Publication date: 2003-09-04
Also published as: WO2002086217A1

Abstract

The present invention is directed to a garment comprised of nonwoven fabric, and particularly, to nonwoven fabric garments that exhibit prolonged durability while maintaining acceptable fit and finish. Garments fabricated in accordance with the present invention are particularly suited for use in daily-wear applications, such as in shirts and blouses.

The present nonwoven fabric has been particularly configured to exhibit elastic characteristics, that is, extensibility and recovery, in the cross-direction of the fabric.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a garment comprised of nonwoven fabric, and more particularly, to nonwoven fabric garments that exhibit prolonged durability while maintaining acceptable fit and finish.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The production of conventional textile fabrics used in the fabrication of garments is known to be a complex, multi-step process. The production of fabrics from staple fibers begins with the carding process where the fibers are opened and aligned into a feed stock known as sliver. Several strands of sliver are then drawn multiple times on drawing frames to further align the fibers, blend, improve uniformity as well as reduce the diameter of the sliver. The drawn sliver is then fed into a roving frame to produce roving by further reducing its diameter as well as imparting a slight false twist. The roving is then fed into the spinning frame where it is spun into yarn. The yarns are next placed onto a winder where they are transferred into larger packages. The yarn is then ready to be used to create a fabric.

For a woven fabric, the yarns are designated for specific use as warp or fill yarns. The fill yarn packages (which run in the cross direction and are known as picks) are taken straight to the loom for weaving. The warp yarns (which run on in the machine direction and are known as ends) must be further processed. The packages of warp yarns are used to build a warp beam. Here the packages are placed onto a warper which feeds multiple yarn ends onto the beam in a parallel array. The warp beam yarns are then run through a slasher where a water soluble sizing is applied to the yarns to stiffen them and improve abrasion resistance during the remainder of the weaving process. The yarns are wound onto a loom beam as they exit the slasher, which is then mounted onto the back of the loom. Here the warp and fill yarns are interwoven in a complex process to produce yardages of cloth.

In contrast, the production of nonwoven fabrics from staple fibers is known to be more efficient than traditional textile processes as the fabrics are produced directly from the carding process.

Nonwoven fabrics are suitable for use in a wide-variety of applications where the efficiency with which the fabrics can be manufactured provides a significant economic advantage for these fabrics versus traditional textiles. However, nonwoven fabrics have commonly been disadvantaged when fabric properties are compared, particularly in terms of surface abrasion, pilling and durability in multiple-use applications. Hydroentangled fabrics have been developed with improved properties, which are a result of the entanglement of the fibers or filaments in the fabric providing improved fabric integrity. Subsequent to entanglement, fabric durability can be further enhanced by the application of binder compositions and/or by thermal stabilization of the entangled fibrous matrix. However, the use of such means to obtain fabric durability comes at the cost of a stiffer and less appealing fabric.

U.S. Pat. No. 3,485,706, to Evans, hereby incorporated by reference, discloses processes for effecting hydroentanglement of nonwoven fabrics. More recently, hydroentanglement techniques have been developed which impart images or patterns to the entangled fabric by effecting hydroentanglement on three-dimensional image transfer devices. Such three-dimensional image transfer devices are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,098,764, hereby incorporated by reference, with the use of such image transfer devices being desirable for providing a fabric with enhanced physical properties as well as an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

For specific applications, a nonwoven fabric must exhibit a combination of specific physical characteristics. As an example, fabrics used in apparel should be soft and drapeable, yet withstand home laundering, and be resistant to abrasion (which can result in aesthetically displeasing fabric “pills”). Fabrics used in the fabrication of apparel must also exhibit sufficient strength, tear resistance, and colorfastness to ensure a reasonable life span for the end-use article. These are among the characteristics which have been identified as being desirable for apparel applications including; outerwear, workwear, footwear, and the like.

Heretofore, attempts have been made to develop nonwoven fabrics exhibiting the necessary aesthetic and physical properties. U.S. Pat. No. 3,933,304, discloses a washable spunlaced nonwoven cloth, with this patent contemplating use of a PAE binder composition (polyamide-amine-epichlorohydrin) with inclusion of cotton fiber in the fibrous matrix.

U.S. Pat. No. 3,988,343, discloses a nylon fabric treated with a mixture of acrylic polymer and latex binder with tinting pigments. U.S. Pat. No. 5,874,159 contemplates providing a spunlaced fabric structure with durability by the provision of a bonding material in the form of a thermal plastic polymer, which may be provided in the form of a net, an apertured or punctured film, or molten drop form. The bonding material acts to join layers or laminations from which the fabric is formed.

Nonwoven fabrics manufactured by prior art methodologies have also been found, when incorporated into a garment, to result in articles that have not been acceptably comfortable to wear for protracted periods of time. As a result of the application of a binder to the fibrous nonwoven matrix to impart sufficient durability, such prior art nonwoven fabrics exhibit either no, or limited, recoverable extensibility. Recoverable extensibility of a garment is critical to consumer acceptance in that a garment, such as a shirt or blouse, when initially donned must stretch to accommodate the procedure of placing such item on the body and yet return to a state of fit that is both aesthetically appealing and comfortable. Further, as a person wears such a nonwoven fabric garment, it must accommodate the flexing and stretching of the wearer while again, returning to a state that is both aesthetically appealing and comfortable.

Notwithstanding various attempts in the prior art to develop a nonwoven fabric acceptable for apparel use applications, a need continues to exist for a nonwoven fabric exhibiting aesthetic appeal while obtaining requisite mechanical characteristics.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present nonwoven fabric has been particularly configured to exhibit elastic characteristics, that is, extensibility and recovery, in the cross-direction of the fabric. The cross-direction (CD) is transverse or perpendicular to the machine-direction (MD) of the fabric, that is, the direction in which the fabric is manufactured and processed, typically extending along the longitudinal axis of the fabric. By configuring the present fabric to exhibit cross-direction elasticity, the fabric can be employed in daily-wear applications.

A suitable nonwoven fabric may comprise fibrous elements selected from conventional means well known in the art, including the use of staple fiber, continuous filaments, and combinations thereof. An exemplary nonwoven fabric embodying the principles of the present invention comprises a hydroentangled nonwoven web preferably comprising staple length textile fibers of about 0.8 to 6.0 denier having a basis weight of about 1.0 to 6.0 ounces per square yard, preferably 2.0 to 4.0 ounces per square yard. More preferably, the nonwoven web comprises fibers of about 1.0 to 3.0 denier, with the web having a basis weight of about 2.5 to 3.5 ounces per square yard. Use of polyester fibers is presently preferred, but it is within the purview of the present invention to form the present nonwoven fabric from blends which include at least a portion of synthetic fibers blended with natural fibers, and from substantially continuous filaments of either homogeneous or multicomponent polymeric construction.

In a current preferred embodiment, hydroentanglement is effected so as to impart a rectilinear pattern to the fibrous or precursor nonwoven web, which pattern is preferably oriented at an angle between about 30° and 60° relative to a machine-direction of the web. In a preferred method of formation, the fibrous web is subjected to preliminary hydroentanglement to lend integrity thereto prior to formation of the rectilinear pattern in the web by hydroentanglement on a patterned forming surface.

In order to impart elastic characteristics to the nonwoven fabric used to fabricate the daily-wear garment, a polymeric binder composition is substantially uniformly applied to the nonwoven fabric. Although the specific amount of binder can be varied while keeping with the principles disclosed herein, it is presently preferred that the binder composition comprises between about 17% and about 31%, by weight, of acrylic binder. Subsequent to application of the polymeric binder composition, the nonwoven web is dried to form the present nonwoven fabric. Significantly, the resultant nonwoven fabric exhibits elastic characteristics (i.e., stretch or extensibility, and recovery) in the cross-direction of the fabric. In accordance with the present invention, the fabric exhibits at least about 20% extensibility in the cross-direction with at least about 90% recovery, preferably at least about 50% extensibility in the cross-direction with at least about 90% recovery. The fabric is thus engineered to exhibit a relatively high degree of cross-direction elasticity.

By virtue of the elastic characteristics of the present nonwoven fabric, the fabric can be employed in the fabrication of daily-wear garments as a substitute for knit or woven fabrics in applications where stretch recovery characteristics are desirable. Panels of such fabric may be oriented during the course of fabricating a daily-wear garment such that recoverable extensibility is imparted to the garment to best suit the anticipated stresses placed thereon during the course of donning and protracted wearing of the garment. As will be evident from the following detailed description, the desired elastic properties for the present nonwoven web can be achieved by various combinations of fiber orientation, pattern entanglement, and binder composition add-on. This further facilitates fabricating durable daily-wear garments from different base nonwoven fabrics while still achieving the desired elastic characteristics.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become readily apparent from the following detailed description, the accompanying drawings, and the appended claims.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic view of one form of an apparatus for forming the present nonwoven fabric according to one form of the method of the present invention; and [0019]
FIG. 2 is a diagrammatic, perspective view of a shirt assembly including a nonwoven fabric embodying the principles of the present invention.[0020]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

While the present invention is susceptible of embodiment in various forms, there is shown in the drawings and will hereinafter be described a presently preferred embodiment, with the understanding that the present disclosure is to be considered as an exemplification of the invention, and is not intended to limit the invention to the specific embodiment illustrated. [0021]
U.S. Pat. No. 3,485,706, to Evans, hereby incorporated by reference, discloses a process for effecting hydroentanglement of nonwoven fabrics. [0022]
U.S. Pat. No. 5,098,764, hereby incorporated by reference, discloses a nonwoven fabric having unique characteristics and properties which permit use of the fabric in a wide variety of applications. A method and apparatus for manufacturing the fabric are also disclosed, including a hydroentanglement (sometimes referred to as spun-laced) process by which a precursor nonwoven web of fibers is subjected to hydroentanglement on a forming surface to impart a rectilinear pattern to the web. The present invention can be practiced in accordance with the teachings of this patent, and as appropriate, reference will be made to this patent in connection with the present disclosure. [0023]
U.S. Pat. No. 5,670,234, U.S. Pat. No. 5,674,587, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,827,597, all hereby incorporated by reference, disclose a topographical support member which can be employed for imparting a pattern to a nonwoven fabric during hydroentanglement, with the resultant fabric again having desirable properties which lend it for use in many different applications. Fabrics formed in accordance with the teachings of this fabric are sometimes referred to as “tricot”. [0024]
The present invention contemplates use of the methods disclosed in the above-referenced patents for manufacture of durable daily-wear garments exhibiting elastic characteristics, that is, extensibility and recovery, in the cross-direction of the fabric. Nonwoven fabrics typically exhibit a machine-direction and a cross-direction, that is, with reference to the direction which extends along the length of the fabric, i.e., the direction in which it is manufactured (the machine-direction), and the direction of the fabric which extends perpendicularly to the machine-direction, typically across the width of the fabric. [0025]
Fabrication of a durable daily-wear garment begins with the manufacture or procurement of a suitable nonwoven fabric embodying the principles of the present invention. Manufacture of a suitable nonwoven fabric is initiated by providing a precursor nonwoven web which preferably comprises staple length textile fibers of about 0.8 to about 6.0 denier having a basis weight of about 1.0 to about 6.0 ounces per square yard. While it is contemplated that the present invention can be practiced with the use of synthetic fibers, natural fibers, and blends thereof, as well as continuous filaments of homogeneous and/or multicomponent polymeric composition, use of 100% polyester staple fiber is presently preferred. In current practice of the present invention, polyester staple length fibers having a denier of about 1.5 have been particularly preferred. These fibers are commercially available under the product designation 54W, from Dupont Akra. [0026]
As noted above, various combinations of fiber orientation and binder add-on can be successfully employed in achieving a nonwoven fabric exhibiting the characteristics of the present invention. Thus, the binder add-on or “finish level” of the finished nonwoven fabric can be varied in accordance with the teachings herein. It is desirable to have sufficient add-on to achieve the necessary fabric durability, which durability generally corresponds to the washability of the fabric. [0027]
Stretch or extensibility, and recovery characteristics of the present nonwoven fabric, in the cross-direction, have been selected to facilitate use in daily-wear garments while maintaining the durability and washability of the fabric. It is presently preferred that the nonwoven fabric of the present invention exhibit extensibility in the cross-direction of at least about 50%, and more preferably at least about 60%, with initial recovery of at least about 85%, and initial recovery of at least about 90% being particularly preferred. The following test methodology is employed for testing of fabrics, with this methodology being a modification of ASTM 3107-75, re-approved 1980, hereby incorporated by reference. [0028]
The scope of the present methodology is for measuring stretch or extensibility under a constant weight for a set length of time, and for measuring recovery of stretch in the same fabric. Samples are prepared by cutting 2 inch by 20 inch (MD×CD) from the center, left side, and right side of a fabric sample. Cuts are taken no closer than 6 inches from the edge of the sample. A ruler with measurements in 0.10 inch increments is employed. The test employs one of five standardized weights (2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, or 4.0 pounds) depending upon the basis weight of the fabric, as set forth below. Starting 4 inches from the top each sample, a 10 inch section is bench marked. A clip is attached to the top of the sample and the sample is supported on a rack. Depending upon fabric basis weights, the following test weights are employed: [0029]

Basis Weight (Per Yard²)/Test Weight

1.0-3.9 ounces/(2.0 pounds) [0030]
4.0-4.9 ounces/(2.5 pounds) [0031]
5.0-5.9 ounces/(3.0 pounds) [0032]
6.0-6.9 ounces/(3.5 pounds) [0033]
7.0-7.9 ounces/(4.0 pounds) [0034]
The weight assembly for the correct weight range is attached with a spring clip to the bottom of the sample. The sample is suspended, under the influence of weight, for 15 seconds. The calibrated ruler is used to measure the new, stretched length of the original sample, i.e., the distance between the ends of the original 10 inch marked section of the sample. This reading is recorded as B, in inches. The weight is removed, and the sample removed from the clips and rack. The sample is laid flat on a table or like surface. After 5 minutes to condition the sample, the relaxed length of the original sample, i.e., the distance between the ends of the 10 inch marked section is measured, thus providing record reading C. [0035]
Calculations are made in accordance with ASTM D1774-94, adjusted to 100% initial elongation. [0036]

EXAMPLE

A stretch and recovery 100% PET nonwoven fabric was obtained in the form of a commercially available material specified as M-037X, from Polymer Group, Inc., of Benson, N.C. The M-037X comprised a preformed nonwoven web subjected to hydraulic energy to impart a predescribed image or pattern as shown in FIG. 1 and in accordance with above-referenced U.S. Pat. No. 5,098,764. The process includes an [0037] image transfer device 24 which receives the preformed nonwoven web P and which typically imparts a final pattern to the web. The web is subjected to hydroentanglement from three nozzle assemblies, designated 26, at a line speed of approximately 35 yards per minute, and an entangling pressure of 150 bar.
Subsequent to patterned hydroentanglement, the web received a substantially uniform application of a polymeric binder composition at an [0038] application station 30. The web is then directed over a series of drying rollers 32, operated at 310° F., with manufacture of the nonwoven fabric of the present invention thus completed.

A binder composition, comprising an elastomeric emulsion, having the following formulation has been employed in the bath of the application station.



	Tween 20 (Wetting Agent)	0.2%
	Antifoam Y-30 (Silicone Defoamer)	0.025%
	10% Aqua Ammonia	0.3%
	San Cure 861 (Polyurethane)	0.7%
	Hystretch V-29 (Acrylic Binder)	X% (variable)
	Water	Balance of Bath

The particular material utilized an image transfer device in form of “20×20” pattern prior to binder application. The “20×20” refers to a rectilinear forming pattern having 20 lines per inch by 20 lines per inch configured in accordance with FIGS. 12 and 13 of U.S. Pat. No. 5,098,764 except mid pyramid drain holes are omitted. Drain holes are present at each corner of the pyramid (four holes surround the pyramid). The “20×20” pattern is oriented 45 degrees relative to the machine direction, with a pyramidal height of 0.025 inches and drain holes having a diameter of 0.02 inches. [0040]
The durability of the M-037X greige fabric was confirmed by subjecting the fabric to a wash durability test. The wash durability test comprises subjecting sheets of fabric to a wash cycle including the use of a laundry type detergent, followed by drying the fabric through the use of a residential through-air dryer. A total of 25 test cycles were run, with stretch and recovery testing being performed at the 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 cycle points. The data is provided in TABLE 1 (per AATCC 124). [0041]
Prior to using the greige fabric to construct a shirt assembly, the fabric was pre-treated with a softening agent followed by jet dyeing and mechanical compaction to a level of 7%. Any suitable conventional textile dyeing can be employed, including, but not limited to, jet, beam, continuous range, pad, and garment. In addition, rotary screen printing, heat transfer printing, digital printing, and flexographic printing can be applied solely or in conjunction with a dyeing procedure. It is also within the purview of the present invention that a mechanical treatment or treatments may be employed, either prior to or subsequent to printing and dyeing, to include such processes as sanforizing, micrexing, sanding, sueding, napping, or application of either the Bianchalanni or Scutcher process. [0042]
The nonwoven fabric was then used to fabricate a collared shirt. A needle size of 70 was utilized in conjunction with a Tex 21 perma-spun sewing thread at a range of between 9 to 11 stitches per inch. [0043]
FIG. 2 diagrammatically illustrates a shirt assembly formed in accordance with the present invention. The shirt assembly includes a mutual combination of a front and back nonwoven fabric pieces in the general shape of a human upper torso, with holes present in the assembly corresponding to the location of the head and arms. It is further contemplated that the front and/or back nonwoven fabric piece may comprise independently a plurality of coplanar nonwoven fabric subsections, each subsection oriented such that the recoverable extensibility is best utilized for comfort of the wearer. [0044]
In the preferred embodiment, the [0045] nonwoven fabric 114 of the shirt assembly 110 comprises a plurality of nonwoven fabric sections joined to form a shirt construct. While the nonwoven fabric itself exhibits a substantial degree of elasticity, it is presently contemplated that the shirt assembly is further provided with an elongate elastic member 116 and 117 secured to the nonwoven at arm holes 118. The elongate elastic member cooperates with the nonwoven fabric to closely conform the shirt assembly to the arms of the wearer for the desired fit.
Of particular note, the resulting durable nonwoven fabric shirt, which exhibited favorable recoverable extensibility, offered an equivalent aesthetic appeal as compared to a conventional knit shirt assembly. Further, the same durable nonwoven fabric shirt had a complete weight of about 6 ounces versus the 14 ounce complete weight of the conventional knit shirt. As a result of the greater than 50% reduction in weight between the durable nonwoven fabric shirt and the conventional knit shirt, and a corresponding reduction in thermal retention, it is reasonably expected that the wearer would remain cooler, and therefore more comfortable when exposed to elevated environmental temperatures. [0046]
From the foregoing, it will be observed that numerous modifications and variations can be effected without departing from the true spirit and scope of the novel concept of the present invention. It is to be understood that no limitation with respect to the specific embodiment illustrated herein is intended or should be inferred. The disclosure is intended to cover, by the appended claims, all such modifications as fall within the scope of the claims. [0047]

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A garment comprising a nonwoven fabric, said nonwoven fabric exhibiting an extensibility of at least about 50% and a recovery of at least about 85%, said nonwoven fabric further exhibiting a wash durability of at least 25 cycles.

2. A garment as in claim 1, wherein the nonwoven fabric is comprised of fibers selected from the group consisting of staple length fiber, continuous filament, and the combinations thereof.

3. A garment as in claim 2, wherein the fibers are selected from the group consisting of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and the combinations thereof.

4. A garment as in claim 1, wherein the garment is a shirt.

5. A garment as in claim 4, wherein said third has a weight of about 6 ounces.

6. A garment as in claim 4, wherein said shirt comprises an assembly of a plurality of sections of said nonwoven fabric which define a pair of arm holes, said shirt including a pair of elongate elastic members respectively secured to said arm holes.