US2028773A - Universal folder for sewing machines - Google Patents

Description

Jan.. 28, 1936. J, GALKIN 2,028,773

UNIVERSAL FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Aug. 5l, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 L TMI BY ATTORNEY Jan. 28, 1936. .1, GALKIN UNIVERSAL FOLDER FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Aug. 3l, 1934 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 JUSEPH GA/.K//V

' INVENTOR. Eri/)6.1M

ATTORNEY Patented Jian. 28v 1936 SAL FOLDER FR SEE/m6 MACHINES Application AugllSt 31, `1934:, Serial No. 742,338

(Cl. 11E- 147) 4 Claims.

This inventionrelates to a new and improved folder for sewing machines and more particularly to a folder which is adapted for applying waistbands to the waistband portion of trousers.

An object of this invention is to provide a folder which is adapted for applying waistbands consisting of a layer of lining material and an intermediate layer of stifening fabric such as canvas in superimposed relation upon the waistband portion of trousers and cause said waistband to be afxed by machine stitching to the trousers without any folds in the stiifening fabric.

Another object of this invention is to'provide a universal folder designed for applying straight waistbands as well as pleated waistbands to the waistband portion of trousers.

Another object of this invention is to provide a folder having a lower portion designed to receive the waistband fabrics from a supply reel positioned above the operating table of the sewing machine, the said fabrics entering said folder in a direction transverse to the line of stitching and being folded in an oblique direction and caused to leave an upper portion of said folder in a direction parallel with the line of stitching.

Another object of this invention is to position the outer marginal edge of the hemming section of the upper portion of the folder in angular relation with the line of stitching so as to prevent the formation of puckers in the lining material of the waistbands.

Another object of this invention is to provide a folder for applying ready made or pre-formed waistbands to trousers, the said folder being designed for the independent adjustment of the trousers fabric guiding means to permit variation of the width of trouser fabric which is to be inserted between the stiiening fabric and the lining material of the waistband.

With the above and other objects in View, the invention will be hereinafter more particularly described, and the combination and arrangement of parts will be shown in the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the claims which form part of this speciiication.

Reference will now be had to the drawings, wherein like numerals of reference designate corresponding parts throughout the several views, in which:

Figure 1 is a plan view of the folder mounted on the base-plate of a sewing machine.

Figure 2 is a front elevation ofthe folder.

Figure 3 is a side elevation of the folder.

Figure 4 is an enlarged sectional View of a plain waistband as completed on the machine.

Figure 5 is an enlarged sectional view of a pleated waistband as completed on the machine.

The folder l0, as illustrated, consists of a supporting-base Il having slots I2 adapted to receive screws I3 for securing the folder to the base-plate I4 of a sewing machine. These slots are so disposed in the supporting-base Il that the folder I0 may be shifted in a direction crosswise of the line of seam formation to different set positions. Integral with the supporting-base Il is an outwardly flaring angularly bent folding section l5 having a right-angular extension I6 positioned below the base-plate I4 of the sewing machine. The extension I6 comprises a fixed guiding slot I1 serving to receive one edge of a band of stiiening fabric IB from a supply reel (not shown) but positioned above the operating table or base-plate I4 of the sewing machine. The supply reel carries a roll of ready made or pre-formed waistband material made of a layer of lining and a stiffening layer of canvas stitched together lengthwise along one edge. Achannelshaped guideway I9 positioned parallel with the line of stitching has been formed on the extension I6 and serves to receive the rectangular portion of a slide arm 2l) in close engagement. The slide arm 20 has a slot 2l to receive a screw 22 for'securing the arm to the extension I6 in different set positions. A U-shaped guide 23 has been provided for guiding the stitched edge u of the pre-formed waistband material. The guide 23 is permanently united to a bar 24 fastened to the slide arm 20 by screws 25. The guide 23 may thus be shifted in a direction parallel with the guiding slot Il to form between them a path of adjustable width for the particular width of waistband desired. The width of the waistband to be formed is governed by the width of the stiffening fabric i8 shown in Figure 1.

A hemming section 26 has been permanently united to the undersurface of the extension I6, below the guiding slot Il in parallel relation with said guide. The hemming section 26 is substantially U-shaped and has a guiding member or tongue 21 centrally secured therein.

Mounted on the supporting-base Il is a channeleshaped guideway 28 positioned transverse with the line of stitching and serves to receive the rectangular portion of a slide arm 29 in close engagement. The slide arm 2S has a slot 30 to receive a screw 3l for securing the arm to the base Il in different set positions. A U-shaped guide 32 has been provided for guiding the stitched edge of the pre-formed waistband material, The guide 32 is permanently united to 55 the slide arm 2d. rI'he guide 32 may thus be shifted in a direction parallel with the line of stitching of the sewing machine. a. hemming section d3 has been formed from one end portion of a plate 3d mounted above the supporting base il and secured to said base by means of an arm and fastening means 36. The folding edge 3l of the hemming section 33 has been positioned in angular relation with the U-shaped guiding member 32, forming a tapering passageway between these members with the largest end of the taper terminating at the needle 3d. The

hemming section 33 is substantially U-shaped and has a guiding member or tongue centrally so cured thereini The tongue 39 projects outwardly from the'hexnming section 3i' and slopes downwardly and terminates adjacent the needle @t at apoint d.

An independent guide di for the edge of the trouser fabric has been positioned on the baseplate It of the sewing machine and is provided with an edge portion o2 which'extends slightly upward. As shown in Figure 1, the guide di slots d3 serving to receive screws dfi for securing said guide and the. edge portion d2 thereof in various adjusted positions with relation to the folding edge 31 of the heron/ring section The guide di may'thus be adjusted on the basepiate ld and this adjustment permits variation of the width of trouser fabric to be inserted between the stiifening fabric and the lining material of the waistband.

In operation, the roll of pre-formed waistband material 45 above the operating table or baseplate I4 of the sewing machine, is inserted in the lower folding and guiding section lo with the stiifening fabric 3 facing up and with the free edge of the stiiening fabric in contact with the guiding slot il; the stitched edge of lining material di and stiiening fabric i8 being in contact with the U-shaped guide 23. The waistband material is drawn through the lower folding and guiding section 46 and is folded in an oblique 'direction about the angularly bent section i5 and is inserted in the folding and guiding section on the supporting-base H with the lining material facing up and with the free edge of the stiiening fabric in contact 'with a guide channel do formed by an upturned edge 43 of the supportingbase The stiffening fabric goes through 1in-f folded. 'Ihe free edge of the stiifening fabric leaves the guide channel it slightly to the right of the needle 38. AThe stitched edge material il and stiiening fabric it contact with the U-shaped guide. The edgeof the: lining material comes out from. the rear end of the angularly positioned hemming section 33 folded to the desired size or width of waistband and is immediately stitched adjacent the folded edge and is drawn through the folder by a feed mechanisin (not shown).

The object of the angular position of the hemmer section 33 is to cause the underfolded lining material to enter the hemming section 33 with a width less than the desired width of waistband and to leave the folder at the needle with thedesired width so as to cause the lining fabric to be under tension and to lay taut'on thel stiffening fabric. There is a very narrow linear pasto be taut at the point of exit from the folder and prevents the formation of puclrers or foids of lining tions into coacting relationship,

- pre-formed waistband material above the operating table of the sewing machine so as to keep it out of the way of the operator and also to prevent oii from dripping down on the said material if it were placed below the operating table.

The stitching mechanism of the sewing niachine may be of any character but preferably of the type forming zigzag stitching which pass a1- ternately through the folded edge of the iining and through the trouser and stiening fabrics and then only through the trouser and stifening lfabrics 5w and i3; as shown in Figures 4 and 5.

claim: A folder for sewing machines designed for applying waistbands to. trousers, comprising a supporting base member, a folding 'and guiding section for receiving a waistband which is composed of two strips stitched together along one edge, said section being positioned below said base and transverse tothe line of stitching, a folding and guiding section positioned on said base and parallel with line of stitching for receiving said waistband and an intermediate ob= ligue folding section connecting said upper and lower sections into coasting relationship, said inm termediate section being designed to reverse the position of the strips composing said waistband. 2. A folder for sewing machines designed ,for applying waistbands to trousers, comprising a supporting4 base member, a, folding and guiding for the edge of the trouser fabric and means for supporting said independent guide whereby it i may be adjusted to permit variation of the width of trouser fabric inserted the waistband.

A folder for sewing machines designed for between the layers of applying waistbands to trousers, comprising a.v

supporting base member, a folding and guiding section for receiving a waistband which is composed of two strips stitched together along one edge, said section being positioned below said base and transverse to the line of stitching, a folding and guiding section positioned on said base and parallel with the line of stitching for receiving' said waistband and an intermediate oblique folding section connecting said upper and lower secsaid folding member on said base being angularly positioned with relation to the guiding member on said base and forming a tapering passageway for the lining material with the largest end of the taper terminating at the needle and causing the lining layer of said waistband to lay taut in waistband making relationship.

4. A folder for sewing machines designed for applying waistbands to trousers, comprising a supporting base member, a folding and guiding section for receiving a waistband which is cornposed of two strips stitched together along one edge, said section being positioned below said base and*transverse to the line of stitching, a fciding and guiding section positioned on said base and said waistband and an intermediate oblique folding section connecting said upper and lower sections into coacting relationship, said folding member on said base being angularly positioned with relation to the guiding member on said base and forming a tapering passageway for the lining l material with the largest end of the taper terminating at the needle and causing the lining layer of said waistband to lay taut in waistband making relationship, and an independent guide for the edge of the trouser fabric.

JOSEPH GALKIN.

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