US 2094643 A
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Oct. 5, 1937. Q FELLROTH 2,094,643
GARMENT Filed Jan. 15, 1936 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Inventor Erick O. Felltoth Jlttorneqs Oct. 5, 1937. Q FELLROTH 2,094,643
GARMENT Filed Jan. 15, 1956 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 25 Fig.2 K
Inventor mm 0., Fellvoth Jlttorneqs Oct. 5, 1937. E. o. FELLROTH GARMENT Filed Jan. 15, 1936 5 Sheets$heet 3 Inventor Ecllvoth Erick ,0.
Oct. 5, 1937. Q FELLROTH 2,094,643
GARMENT Filed Jan. 15, 1936 5 SheetsSheet 4 Erick O. Fellroth Jlttorneqs Oct. 5, 1937. E. o. FELLROTH GARMENT Filed Jan. 15, 1936 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Inventor Erick O. Fellvoth Bu M fzw Jlttorneqs Patented Oct. 5, 1937 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE GARMENT Erick 0. Fellroth, Minneapolis, Minn.
Application January 15', 1936, Serial No. 59,249
My invention relates to improvements in garments and particularly to sleeved garments such as coats and shirts.
In the field of sports, golf and trap-shooting 5 being examples, and in many occupational pursuits there is a demand for sleeved garments of neat appearance which are capable of permitting unimpeded arm movement.
It is an'object of my invention to provide a practical and relatively inexpensive garment of such character in which the sleeve structures and the corresponding portions of the body structure immediately adjacent thereto cooperate to provide freedom of arm movement without straining or disarranging the body proper.
To the accomplishment of the foregoing and related ends, the invention, then, consists of the means hereinafter fully described and particularly pointed out in the claims, the annexed drawings and the following description setting forth in detail certain constructions embodying the invention, such disclosed constructions, however, being illustrative only of representative.
structural variations in which the principle of the invention may be used.
In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a front view of a coat or. jacket constructed in accordance with my invention, the right sleeve being shown as swung slightly outward from the side of the body of the 30 garment; Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view of the garment shown in Fig. 1, the right sleeve in this view being shown as extending upwardly; Fig. 3 is also a fragmentary view of the garment shown in Fig. 1, the upper'sleeve portion being removed and the combined under-sleeve and side body insert being shown as detached from the upper sleeve portion and from the corresponding front yoke piece and the back yoke piece of the garment and also as partially detached fro-m the 40 corresponding front body piece and the back body piece of said garment; Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view illustrating the'head of the upper sleeve portion as removed from the structure shown in Fig. 3; Fig. 5 includes fragmentary views in plan of the back yoke and body pieces and plan views of the companion front yoke and body pieces asemployed in the garment shown in Fig. 1, also plan views of companion parts consisting of an upper sleeve portion and a combined lower sleeve and side body insert; Fig. 6 includes a fragmentary view in-plan of a back body piece and yoke patch therefor, also a plan ,view of a companion front body piece and yoke patch, which parts may be substituted for the yoke and body pieces shown in Fig. 5; Fig. 7 is a front view of a shirt embodying my invention; Fig. 8 is a fragmentary view of the right side of the shirt shown in Fig. '7, the upper sleeve portion being removed and the combined under-sleeve and side body insert being shown as detached from the upper sleeve por- 5 tion and as partially detached from front and back body pieces of the shirt; Fig. 9 is a fragmentary view of the head of the upper sleeve portion as removed from the structure shown in Fig. 8 and Fig. 10 includes fragmentary plan views 10 of the back body piece and the companion front body piece of the shirt shown in Fig. 7, also plan views of companion parts, the one an upper sleeve portion and the other a combined under-sleeve and side body insert.
Reference being had to the accompanying drawings, it will be seen that the garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive is of the coat or jacket type having a yoked body buttoned together by buttons W at the front and formed with a collar H and lapels H2. The body of the coat includes a back yoke piece It and front yoke pieces M (right and left), the edges l5 (Fig. 5)
,of the back yoke piece being united to the edges E6 of the front yoke pieces by shoulder seams I1. Also included in the body of the coat is a back body piece is, the same being united at its edge iii to the edge 20 of the back yoke piece I3 by a back yoke seam 2!. Front body pieces 22 (right and left) are united at their edges 23 to the edges 24 of the corresponding front yoke pieces M by the front yoke seams 25. Each sleeve 26 includes an upper sleeve portion 21, the head of which is united at its edge 28 with the edges 29, 30 of the back yoke piece l3 and the corresponding front yoke piece M by a head seam 3i. Completing each sleeve and the corresponding 'side of the body proper of the garment is an elongated insert 32, one end portion thereof, constituting an. undersleeve, united along its longitudinal edges 32a.to the longitudinal edges 34 of the upper sleeve portion 21 by front and back seams 35, 36, the intermediate and the other end portion of said insert 32, constituting a body panel, being united along said longitudinal edges 32 to the edges 31, 38 of the front and back yoke pieces I4, l3 and to the edges 39, 40 of the front and back body pieces 22, I8 by front and back body seams 4|, 42 in continuation of the front and back sleeve seams '35, as.
In the disclosed construction, there is plaiting .fullness in the material of the garment at the locality of the arm pit which provides for the extensibility of the material both lengthwise and circumferentially of the garment at such localdownwardly converging arm pit tabs 43, 44 (Fig.
5) which unite with the upwardly converging extensions 45, 46 of the body pieces l8, 22 to form facing projections 41. (Fig. 3) at front and back of the garment, such projections being adapted to plait lengthwise and circumferentially of the body of the garment immediately in front and in back of the arm pit, the insert 32 being adapted likewise to plait at the arm pit. These plaiting projections 41 have a vertical hinging action which comesinto play when the arm is raised (Fig. 2) so that in addition to their cooperation with the insert 32 of accommodating forward and backward swinging movements of the arm, said projections freely accommodate upward and downward arm movements. In this connection, attention is invited to the location of the points of projections 41 (Fig. 3) as compared with the relatively elevated position of said points, as seen in Fig. 2.
Instead of employing full yoke pieces as in the form of garment illustrated in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive, front and back yoke patches 49, 49 may be employed together" with front and back body pieces 50, 5|, as shown in Fig. 6. In such case, the edges 52 of the body pieces 50, 5| are united by shoulder seams and the yoke patches 48, 49 are united with the body pieces 50, 5| by seam ing the edges 53, 54 of the former to the edges 55, 56 of the latter, thus substantially duplicating the structure provided by the formation of the yoke pieces l3, l4 and body pieces I8, 22, as shown in Fi 5.
Shirts embodying my invention may be constructed of materials of all suitable weights in the same manner as the coat structures above described and in the lighter and more readily plaiting materials may be practically constructed as illustrated in Figs. 7 to 10 inclusive. In these views, the illustrated shirt structure includes a back body piece 60 and right and left front body pieces 6| united at their edges 62 to the edges 63 of said back body piece 60 by shoulder seams 64. Being of the coat-shirt type the meeting edges of the front body pieces 6| are fastened together, as by buttons 95 on the one iece which engage in button holes 66 in the other piece. The garment may be supplied with an attached collar 61, as shown, or constructed in the usual manner with a collar band to which an ordinary detachable collar may be applied. As in the coat structure hereinbefore described, I employ inserts 68, each of which is common to one sleeve and the corresponding side of the body structure, one end portion of each insert constituting an under-sleeve gusset for its respective sleeve and the other end portion a gusset for the side of the garment body. The edge 69 at the head of sleeve portion 10 (Fig. 10) is united to the edges 1| of the body pieces 60, 6| by a head seam, the longitudinal edge portions 12 of said sleeve portion being joined together by an under-sleeve seam 13. Completing the sleeve structure, the longitudinal edges 14 of the one end portion of the insert 68 are seamed to the edge portions 15 of the sleeve portion 10, said seams being continued into the body of the garment .to unite the said edges 14 at the other end portion of said insert 68 to the edge portions 16, 11 of the body pieces 60, 6|,the edge portions 19, 19 of said body pieces 60, 6| being seamed together from the lower tip of the insert 68 to the bottom of the shirt body by a side seam 80. The body pieces 60, 6| are formed with arm pit projections 9| in simulation of the projections 41 on the front and back body portions of the coat structure. At each side of the garment, these projections extend toward each other and join with the insert 68 where it is widest, said insert, as shown, being tapered from about the middle thereof toward each end. Thus, plaiting fullness for freedom of arm movement is provided in the insert 68, at the arm pit and in the front and back body portions of the garment immediately adjacent to the arm pit, the vertical hinging action of the projections 8| being present, though not to the same degree, as in the coat structure. This is due to the fact that the front and back body portions 60, 6| are each in one piece, rather than a fabrication of yoke and body pieces, wherein plaiting fullness for extension lengthwise of the garment is provided. However, in a shirt structure, as usually constructed, the lighter materials with great-, er tolerance in tailoring produces an effect substantially the same as that existing in the coat construction which ordinarily is carried out in the heavier materials and with greater precision in the tailoring thereof.
Changes in the specific form of my invention, as herein disclosed, may be made within the scope of what is claimed without departing from the spirit of the invention.
Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to protect by Letters Patent is:
1. In a garment of the character described, front and back main members, each comprising a yoke piece, and a body piece, said pieces being respectively provided with complementing arm pit tabs and extensions and united bya seam joining them and their tabs and extensions together, the complementing tabs and extensions on said front and back members forming facing projections at either side thereof gathered lengthwise of the garment, said garment having at each side thereof an upper sleeve portion secured at its head to the yoke pieces and having also an insert strip consisting of an undersleeve portion and body panel portion, the undersleeve portion being seamed at its edges to the edges of the upper sleeve portion and the body panel portion being seamed at its edges to the edges of the body pieces proper and to the edges of the facing projections, the seaming of the panel portion to the gathered extensions causing said panel portion to be similarly gathered lengthwise of the garment at the arm pit, the lateral extent of the panel portion between the facing projections on the main members being substantially greater than the normal distance between said projections, said panel portion being thereby gathered circumferentially of the garment together with said projections and adjacent portions of the main members, whereby the garment material at the arm pits and adjacent localities forwardly and rearward ly thereof pleat freely to accommodate upward, forward and rearward arm movement without strain or disturbance of the garment material at other localities upon the body of the wearer.
2. In a garment of the character described, front and back main members formed with arm pit projections facing each other at either side of the garment, said garment having at each side thereof an upper sleeve portion secured at its head to the yoke pieces and having also an insert strip consisting of an undersleeve portion and body panel portion, the undersleeve portion being seamed at its edges to the edges of the upper sleeve portion and the body panel portion being seamed at its edges to the edges of the main members and to the edges of the facing projections thereon, the lateral extent of the panel portion between the facing projections on the main members being substantially greater than the normal distance between said projections, said panel portion being thereby gathered circumferentially of the garment together with said projections and adjacent portions of the main members at the arm pit zone, whereby the garment material at the arm pits and adjacent localities forwardly and rearwardly thereof pleat freely to accommodate upward, forward and rearward arm movement without strain or disturbance of the garment material at other localities upon' the body of the wearer.
ERICK 0. mm