US2240902A - Garment construction - Google Patents

Description

May 6, 1941. H. FISHMAN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 17, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. man/Z 23 22m y 5, 1941- H. FISHMAN 2,240,902

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Fi1ec1 Feb. 17, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR flyvwqn, fig/1 mall A ORNEY.

May 6, 1941. H. FISHMAN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Feb. 17, 1940 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR. 2333 1 W ll Patented May 6, 1941 GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Hyman Fishman, Philadelphia, Pa., assignor to Freedman-Roedelheim'Company, Philadelphia, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania Application February 17, 1940, Serial No. 319,477

7 Claims.- ((21. 2-415) The'present invention relates to a "garment construction, and it relates more particularly to a new and useful construction for sport shirts or the like, which are generally continuous across the front and may be donned or doffed by being pulled over the wearers head.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, there is shown in the accompanying drawings one form thereof which is at present preferred, since the same has been found in practice to give satisfactory and reliable results, although it is to be understood that the various instrumentalities of which the invention consists can be variously arranged and organized and that the invention is not limited to the precise arrangement and organization of the instrumentalities as herein shown and described.

Referring to the drawings, wherein like reference characters indicate like parts,

Figure 1 represents a front elevational view of a garment, constituting an illustrative embodiment of the present invention, as it appears when worn.

Figure 2 represents a rear elevational view of the garment illustrated in Figure 1.

Figure 3 represents a front elevational view of the same garment illustrated in Figure 1, when worn closed at the throat, with a necktie mounted thereon.

Figure 4 represents a horizontal sectional 'view taken through the breast portion of the garment, as on line 4--4 of Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arrows.

Figure 5 represents a slightly enlarged vertical sectional View taken through the center of the garment, as on line 55 of Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arrows.

Figure 6 represents an enlarged sectional View taken through the shoulder portion of the garment. as on line 6-6 of Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arrows; a portion of the collar also being shown in section.

Figure '7 represents an enlarged sectional view taken through the top edge of the lapel-portion of the garment, as on line 1-4 of Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arrows.

Figure 8 represents an "enlarged horizontal sectional view taken through the pocket portion of the garment, as on line S -8 of Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arrows.

Figure 9 represents an enlarged vertical sectional view taken through the pocket portion of the garment, as on line 9-9 of Figure 1,1ooking in the direction of the arrows. 1

Figure 10 represents an enlarged sectional View taken on either one of lines Ill-4B of Figure 1, looking in the direction of the arrows.

The thicknesses of fabrics and the seams shown in the foregoing sectional views have been .purposely enlarged and exaggerated in relation to the rest of the garment, so as better to illustrate their presence, and the nature and constructional details thereof.

The particular illustrativeembodiment of the present invention shown in the accompanying drawings comprises a sport shirt constructed from a plurality of suitably cut fabric panels or sections, preferably of woven cloth, folded and marginally sewed together in a predetermined manner compositely to form the shirt of the present invention.

As illustrated in Figure l, the shirt is generally continuous across the front portion, and includes three connected main front panels 2|), 2| and 22, which cover the front of the wearers torso. The lowermost panel 20 covers the Waist zone of the wearer, and is of generally rectangular shape with its upper margin being disposed at breast height, extending straight across the full width of the shirt, and terminating under the wearers arm-pits. To this straight upper margin of the lowermost panel 23 are secured the straight lower margins of the separate left and right breast panels 2| and 22, said breast panels being overlapped at the center of the garment.

These breast panels 2| and 22 are separately constructed, and each consists of a single layer of fabric folded back to the left or to the right along a vertical fold line 23 or 23 to provide a double thickness of fabric preferably at least coextensive with the central overlap zone at the breast portion of the garment. The underlying or folded back portions of these breast panels 2| and 22, which have been identified in Figures 1, 4, 5 and 6 by the numerals '25 and 25 respectively, preferably extend in their respective left or right directions sufiiciently to provide double thickness throughout the overlap zone, and may terminate slightly beyond said zone at the vertical edges 21 and 28 respectively, each disposed a substantial distance away from the side edges of the front portions of the breast panels.

One of the many possible forms of construction for the straight seam 29 which joins the lower margins of the breast panels to the upper margin of the lower panel is illustrated partly in section and partly in rear elevation in Figure 5, and will be seen to include an upper row of plain stitching 36 extending through all the juxtaposed plies of fabric, and a parallel lower row of hemstitching 3| which binds all the raw edges of the material and extends through to the front of the panel 20.

The side end zones of the upper margins of the breast panels 2| and 22 are sewed at the seams 32 to the corresponding side end zones of the upper margin of the shoulder panel 33, disposed on opposite sides of the collar portion of the garment. As particularly illustrated in Figure 6, this shoulder panel 33 may be made from two juxtaposed identical pieces of fabric 34 and 35, whose margins adjoining the breast panel margins may be inturned at the seams 32 and secured thereto by'para-llel rows of stitching 36 and 37, with only the last-applied row of stitching 31 showing through on the outside of the garment. If desired, the folded- back portions 25 and 26 of the breast panels 2| and 22 may be preliminarily secured in their folded positions by stitching 38 at their upper margins, said stitching 38 being subsequently concealed in the seams 32.

The shoulder panel 33 extends up over the shoulders of the wearer and part way down the back, terminating at its lower extremity in the straight seam 39, which extends horizontally across the full shoulder width of the garment, and connects the upper margin of the back panel 4|! to the lower extremity of said shoulder panel. At the seam 33, the lower margins of the juxtaposed shoulder panels 34 and 35 may be inturned and embrace the upper margin of the back panel 40, with the adjacent plies of fabric being secured by the row of stitching 4|, which shows through on the outside of the garment.

If desired, the upper margin of rear panel 49 may be preliminarily gathered or shirred before being secured to the lower margin of the shoulder piece 33 (which latter preferably remains unshirred) by means of a row of basting stitches 42 of shorter overall length than the extended length of the top margin of said back 'panel. This shirred effect may be accentuated towards the central zone of the garment, and

may be gradually diminished progressively to-' wards both sides, until it finally disappears completely at the end zones, all as more particularly illustrated in Figure 2.

A turned-down collar 43, formed separate and distinct from the breast panels 2| and 22, is secured :to the cut-out upper central marginal zone of the shoulder panel 33, and defines the neck opening of the garment. This collar 43 may be constructed in any suitable manner, as for instance in the manner shown in Figures and 6, wherein the collar will be seen to be made up from a plurality of juxtaposed similar outer panels 44 and 45 and inner panel 45, whose outermost peripheral portions are all inturned and sewed together by the concealed stitching 41. The inner panel 48 acts as a collar-stiffening medium giving the collar slightly more body and rendering it somewhat lesslimp than the rest of the garment, without however destroying its free flexibility.

The seam 48 at the basal edge portion of the collar, which marks the junction of the collar and the shoulder panel 33, is illustrated partly in section and partly in elevation in Figure 5. At this seam, the lower margin of the top collar panel 45 may be preliminarily turned in and held in position by the stitching 49, and after the inturned lower margins of the collar panels 44 and 46 have been sewed against one side of the upper margins of the juxtaposed shoulder panels 34 and 35 by the subsequently concealed stitching 50, the prepared lower margin of the collar panel 45 may then be secured against the opposite side of the shoulder panels 34 and 35 by the parallel row of stitching 5|.

As illustrated in Figures 1 and 5, the seam 48 along the basal edge of the collar extends beyond the shoulder-panel 33 at the shoulder seams 32, and continues for a slight distance along the top margins of the panels 2| and 22 up to the end points 52 at the base of the collar 43. The upper margins of the breast panels 2| and 22, however, do not terminate with the collar seam 48, but continue therebeyond in alignment therewith up to the generally rectangular panel corners 53, where they terminate.

The construction along the upper marginal portions of the breast panels between the points 52 and 53 is illustrated in section in Figure {7. As will be seen from this figure, the juxtaposed margins of the panel 22 and its folded back portion 26 may be inturned and sewed together by the concealed stitching 54.

The rear panel 40 of the garment is marginally secured along the side seams 55 to the adjacent side margins of the front panel 23, thus forming a tubular portion. The arm holes of the garment, whose lowermost portions are disposed at a slightly higher elevation than the front horizontal seam 29, are defined by side edges of the breast panels 2| and 22, shoulderpiece 33, and the upper corner portions of the back panel 4|]. To the edges of these arm holes, are marginally secured short tubular sleeve-elements 56, although longer sleeves may be employed if desired. The outer lower corners of the breast panels 2| and 22 extend underneath these sleeves, and are caught in the side-seams 55.

The hem of the garment, formed by the lowjust outside the overlap zone of the breast panels profiected downwardly. As illustrated in Figures 1, 8 and 9, each pocket may be made from a relatively small panel 59 having its vertical central zone folded inwardly to provide an inwardly extending pleat 6!], and having its side and lower marginal portions inturned and peripherally sewed to the juxtaposed panel 20 by the stitching 6|. The upper border of the pocket-panel 58 has superposed thereover a strip of fabric 62 whose upper margin is folded down over, and hides, the top edge of the panel 59, and is secured in position by the stitching 63, and whose lower marginal portion may be inturned and sewed to the panel 59 by the stitching 64, which also crosses the central pocketpleat 60 thereby securing it against unfolding.

The garment of the present invention may be worn either open at the throat as illustrated 'in Figure 1, or it may be worn closed at the throat as illustrated in Figure 3. When worn open at the throat, the upper corner portions of the breast panels 2| and 22 in the vicinity of the neckopening are folded outwardly and downwardly away from each other to formthe crossed lapels illustrated in Figure '1. In'this position, the gently rounded fold-zones of the lapels are oppositely inclined and intersect below the wearers neck. In the illustrated embodiment, these lapel fold-zones do not run directly into the horizontal garment seam 29, but terminate a short distance above said seam, with the lowermost more or less vertical portions of the breast panel edges 23 and 24 joining the lowerends of the lapel fold-zones with the horizontal garment seam 29. If desired, however, these lapel fold-zones may run directly into and terminate directly at the seam 29.

When the garment is to be worn closed at the threat, the lapel portions are unfolded, bringing the end points 52 of the base of the collar in approximate registration with each other, and causing the now generally horizontal upper margins of the breast panels 2| and 22 to more or less overlap. This brings the collar points relatively closer together, and draws the collar up around the wearers neck. When thus rearranged, the top left corner of the outer breast panel 22 is hidden under the downturned collar, and the visible left edge 23 of this panel extends in a generally vertical direction upwardly from the right side of the left pocket 58, and disappears underneath the point of the collar 43.

Also, the overlap zone becomes generally rectangular in outline. The collar 43 may be held in this new position, with the lapels flattened or unfolded, by means of a necktie 65 which extends around the wearers neck underneath the turned-down collar 43. In the illustrated ernbodiment of the present inventionno buttons or other fastening means are provided for holding the garment closed at the throat, the necktie B5 alone serving to hold the garment closed at the throat.

It will thus be seen that the garment illustrated in the accompanying drawings may be optionally worn open at the throat with crossed overlapping lapels as illustrated in figure 1, or it may be worn closed at the throat as illustrated in Figure 3, and in both instances the garment presents a well-tailored and attractive appearance, and yet affords maximum comfort at all times. Due to construction, the garment is yieldable and adapts itself to the wearers movements, and is especially well suited to be worn when participating in sport activities.

The lower pendent portion of the garment is preferably constructed full in width so as to lit the wearers trunk nore or less loosely, and it may be Worn either outside the wearers lower garment, as illustrated in Figure 1, .or it may be worn tucked inside the waistband of the Wearers lower garment, as illustrated in Figure 3.

Although the garment has been illustrated on a masculine wearer, it may be worn by members of either sex, and is especially suitable for feminine Wear by reason of its fullness and yieldability around the breast zone, and-by reason of the modest appearance which it presents when thus worn. If the garment is intended for solely feminine wear, then it may be constructed With the breast panels overlapped in a reverse its hereinabove-describe'd other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential attributes thereof, and it is therefore desired that the present embodiments be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, reference being had to the appended claims rather than to the foregoing description to indicate the scope of the invention.

Having thus described the invention, what is hereby claimed as new and desired to be secured by Letters Patent is:

1. A garment of the character described adapted alternatively to be worn open at the throat or closed at the throat, comprising a generally rectangular front panel adapted to cover the F front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the garment, said panel having a straight upper margin at breast height extending across the full width of the garment and terminating under the wearers arm-pits, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and forming therewith a generally'tubular portion, separate and distinct left and right breast panels disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment and having their lower margins permanently sewed to said breastheight upper margin of said front panel, the zone of overlap of said breast panels being generally rectangular in outline when the panels are flat, a shoulder panel extending across the full shoulder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel and having the opposite end zones of its upper margin sewed to juxtaposed upper marginal portions of said breast panels, and a relatively flexible turned-down collar sewed to the central upper marginal portion of said shoulder panel and to upper marginal portions of said breast panels, said collar terminating short of the upper corners of the breast panels defining the upper limits of said overlapped zone, said upper corner portions being foldable downwardly and outwardly away from each other to provide crossed lapels when the garment is to be worn open at the throat, and being adapted to be unfolded to draw the collar closer around the wearers neck when said garment is to be worn closed at the throat.

2. A garmentof the character described having a generally rectangular front panel adapted to cover the front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the gar ment, said panel having a straight upper margin at breast height extending across the full width of said garment and terminating under the wearers arm-pits, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and form ing therewith a generally tubular portion, separate and distinct left and right breast panels disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment and having their lower margins permanently sewed to said breast-height upper margin of said front panel, upper corner portions of said overlapped breast panels nearest the center of the garment being folded downwardly and outwardly away from each other to provide crossed lapels, the lower ends of said lapels terminating generally in proximity to said breast-height upper margin of said front panel, a turned-down collar separate and distinct from said breast panels defining the neck opening of the garment, said collar having the opposite end zones of its basal edge portion sewed to upper marginal portions of said breast panels above said 'lapels, and a shoulder panel extending across the full shoulder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel and having the opposite end zones of its upper margin sewed to upper marginal portions of said breast panels and having its central upper marginal zone sewed to the central zone of the basal edge portion of said collar.

3. A garment of the character described having a generally rectangular front panel adapted to cover the front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the garment, said panel having a straight upper margin at breast height extending across the full width of said garment, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and forming therewith a generally tubular portion, separate and distinct left and right breast panels disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment, said breast panels each consisting of a single piece of fabric having a portion thereof folded backwardly to provide double thickness of material at least approximately co-extensive with the overlap zone, each of said backwardly-folded portions terminating in an edge disposed a substantial distance away from the side edge of the front portion of the corresponding breast panel, the lower margins of said breast panels being permanently sewed to said breast-height upper margin of said front panel, a shoulder panel extending across the full shoulder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel, and having the left end zone of its upper margin sewed to the juxtaposed left end zone of the upper margin of said left breast panel, and having the right end zone of its upper margin sewed to the juxtaposed right end zone of the upper margin of said right breast panel, and a turned-down collar defining the neck opening of said garment, said collar being separate and distinct from the aforesaid breast panels and having the central zone of its basal edge portion sewed to the central upper marginal zone of saidshoulder panel and having the left and right end zones of its basal edge portion sewed to upper marginal portions of said left and right breast panels respectively.

4. A garment of the character described having a generally rectangular front panel adapted to cover the front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the garment, said panel having a straight upper margin at breast height extending across the full width of said garment and terminating under the wearers arm-pits, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and forming therewith a generally tubular portion, separate and distinct left and right breast panels disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment and having their lower margins permanently sewed to said breastheight upper margin of said front panel, a shoulder panel extending across the full shoulder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel, and having the left end zone of its upper margin sewed to the juxtaposed left end zone of the upper margin of said left breast panel, and having the right end zone of its upper margin sewed to the juxtaposed right end zone of the upper margin of said right breast panel, and a turneddown collar defining the neck opening of said garment, said collar being separate and distinct from the aforesaid breast panels and having the central zone of its basal edge portion sewed to the central upper marginal zone of said shoulder panel and having the left and right end zones of said basal edge portion sewed to upper marginal portions of said left and right breast panels respectively, the opposite ends of the basal edge portion of said collar terminating short of the respectively adjacent ends of the upper margins of said breast panels.

5. A garment of the characterdescribed having a generally rectangular front panel adapted to cover the front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the garment, said panel having a straight upper margin at breast height extending horizontally across the full width of said garment, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and forming therewith a tubular portion, separate and distinct left and right breast panels disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment, and having their lower margins permanently sewed to said breast-height upper margin of said front panel, a pair of horizontally spaced pockets associated with said front panel, said pockets being spaced apart a distance more or less approximately equal to the maximum horizontal dimension of the overlap zone of said breast panels, with the upper edges of said pockets being in approximate registration with the breast-height horizontal seam at the upper margin of said front panel, a shoulder panel extending across the full shoulder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel and having the opposite end zones of its upper margin sewed to upper marginal portions of said left and right breast panels, and a collar defining the neck opening of said garment formed separate and distinct from the aforesaid breast panels, said collar being permanently affixed to the central upper marginal zone of said shoulder panel and to upper marginal portions of said breast panels.

6. A garment of the character described having a front panel adapted to cover the front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the garment, said panel having an upper margin at breast height extending across .the full width of said garment, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and forming therewith a generally tubular portion, separate and distinct left and right breast panels disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment and having their lower margins permanently sewed to said breast-height upper margin of said front panel, upper corner portions of said overlapped breast panels nearest the center of the garment being folded downwardly and outwardly away from each other to provide crossed lapels, the lower ends of said lapels terminating generally in proximity to said breastheight upper margin of said front panel, a turned-down collar separate and distinct from said breast panels defining the neck opening of the garment, said collar having the opposite end zones of its basal edge portion sewed to upper marginal portions of said breast panels above said lapels, and a shoulder panel extending across the full shoulder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel and having the opposite end zones of its upper. margin sewed to upper marginal portions of said breast panels and having its central upper marginal zone sewed to the central zone of the basal edge portion of said collar.

7. A garment of the character described having a substantially rectangular front panel adapted to cover the front waist zone of the wearer and being continuous across the front of the garment, said panel having a straight upper margin at breast height extending across the full width of said garment, a rear panel sewed along its sides to the sides of said front panel and forming therewith a generally tubular portion, left and right breast portions disposed above said front panel and overlapped at the central zone of said garment and having the lower margins thereof sewed to said breast-height upper margin of said front panel, said breast portions having upper corner zones near the center of the garment folded downwardly and outwardly away from each other to form crossed lapels, the lower ends of said lapels terminating generally in proximity to the lower margins of said breast portions, a turned-down collar portion extending between upper parts of said breast portions and defining the neck opening of said garment, and a shoulder panel extending across the full shouder width of said garment and having its lower margin sewed to the upper margin of said rear panel and having the opposite end zones of its upper margin sewed to upper marginal portions of said breast portions and having its central upper marginal zone sewed to a lower edge of said collar portion.

HYMAN FISHMAN.

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