US2275574A - Beaded welting - Google Patents

Description

March 10, 1942. w. c. VIZARD BEADED WELTING Filed May 27, 1941 3 Sheets-Sheet l Wiiiiaazz a Vizar 22y wa 7 W March 10, 1942. w, c, VIZARD BEADED WEL'IING Filed May 2'7, 1941 :s Sheets-Sheet 2 March 10, 1942. w c, WZARD I 2,275,574

BEADED WELT ING Fild May 27, 1941 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Mar. 10, 1942 BEADED WELTING William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignor to Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass, at copartnership composed of Perley E. Barbour, Walter, G. Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour Application May 27, 1941, Serial No. 395,403

13 Claims.

This invention relates to shoe welting and its process of manufacture, and pertains more particularly to beaded welting of the type having a raised flange or head located between the fiat welt extension and the shoe upper when the welting is built into the shoe. The general purpose of the invention is to provide at minimum cost a neat and dressy welt formed of a single piece of stock and having an integral upstanding bead and contiguous sewing edge so fashioned as to provide an inner longitudinal shoulder which fills the welt crease and ensures that the welting is snugly secured to the upper and innersole without excessive heating or distortion of the welt during its application to the shoe.

The principal advantage of the improved process of manufacture resides in the substantial saving of material as contrasted with the stock heretofore required in making'beaded welting of comparable width, quality and service. For example, a popular brand of welting made in accordance with Arnold and Vizard Patent No. 1,828,728 and sold in substantial quantities under the name stormwelt, requires a fillet 9 in width and in thickness; whereas a preferred form of welting herein disclosed is made from a fillet 1%" by /8". As welting is made in strands of unlimited length, any slight reduction in the strand width necessary to produce one-half inch welting represents a very substantial saving to the manufacturer, especially when thestock is a good grade grain leather as herein recommended.

A welt made by the methods hereinafter described not only is economical to manufacture,

easy to apply and stylish in appearance after application, but also affords a closer and firmer support for the upper, hugging the welt crease and holding that inseam line firmly and evenly, so that separation of the bead from the upper leather is prevented. The close fitting characteristics of the improved welt result from the oblique slitting of the inner edge of the welt strip and the spreading of the divided flanges to form a relatively wide flesh surface presenting a sloping shoulder which lays closely into the welt crease when the welt is applied to the lasted upper of the shoe.

Other features and advantages of the improved welting and its method of manufacture will be apparent from the ensuing description of the recommended embodiments of the invention illustrated in the accompanying drawings, and will be pointed out in the appended claims. In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a leather fillet formed with a. narrow groove in its grain surface;

Fig. 2 is a similar View showing the cuttings made in the flesh portions of the fillet preliminary to the bending and molding of the bead and sewing edge;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a finished welt strip made from the fillet of Figs. 1 and 2;

Figs. 4 and 5 are fragmentary sectional views through the toe portion of a lasted upper and finished shoe, respectively, showing the application thereto of the welt of Fig. 3;

Fig. 6 is a view similar to Fig. 2, illustrating an optional mode of cutting a fillet slightly wider than that of Fig. 1;

Fig. '7 is a view similar to Fig. 2, showing a modified form of fillet used in producing a reverse welt strip;

Fig. 8 is a perspective view of a reverse welt made from the fillet of Fig. 7;

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 4 illustrating the application of the reverse welt to a lasted upper;

Figs. 10 and 11 are views similar to Figs. 2 and 3, respectively, illustrating a modified type of Goodyear beaded welting;

Figs. 12 and 13 are similar views, showing a further modification; and

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary sectional view of a finished shoe equipped with the welt of Fig. 11.

In the particular embodiment chosen for the purpose of illustration in Figs. 1 to 5 inclusive, half-inch beaded welting having a quarter-inch welt extension and a quarter inch bead is produced from a fillet wide and g thick. The, grain face of the fillet 2| is scored with a central, longitudinal V-shaped groove 22, approximately e" wide at the surface and deep (Fig. l), and the following cuts are made in the flesh portion of the fillet: a lateral cut 23 extending inward from the outer edge of the fillet, parallel to the faces thereof and 'f%" from the bottom surface; a vertical cut 24 spaced from said outer edge of the fillet and extending from the bottom of the fillet to the cut 23 remote from its apex, thereby freeing a rectangular strip 25; and an oblique cut 26 along the inner edge of the fillet, starting on a line from the bottom of the fillet and extending inwardly and downwardly from said inner edge to an apex located /8 therefrom and 2" from said bottom (Fig. 2). The cut-away strip 25 is suitable for use as stitchdown welting, so that there is no wastage of the leather stock.

The cuts 23, 24 and 26 thus form the welt extension 21 having a grain surface; a solid triangular flange or bead portion 28 having an outer grain surface 29 and an inner flesh surface 30 (Fig. 3); a triangular flange or flesh flap 3|; a flat sided flesh lip 32; and a thin hinge 33 between the apex of slit 26 and the bottom of the fillet. After removal of the strip 25, the bead 28 is bentupwardly of the Welt extension on the. groove 22; the fiap 3| is bent downwardly and outwardly of the fillet on the hinge 33, and against the bottom of the fillet to which it is cemented along the line 34 (Fig. 3); the lip 32 is folded downwardly and inwardly of the fillet against the side of the flap 3! whichpreviousl-y constituted its inner edge; andthe .flapandllip are cemented together to form-attwo-partsewing having-a longitudinal shoulder 35, and a longitudinal crease or groove 36 formed-inthe bottom of the welt by bending the lip inwardly from the apex- 0f cut-'23.

When'embodied ina-Goodyear welt-shoe as shown-in Figs.-4 and 5, the'sloping flesh surface 3110f the bead and the-protrudingflesh shoulder of the sewingedge'snugly engage the upper 31 and fit-into the welt-crease, so that the weltingmay be tightlysecured tothe lip 38 of innersole 39 by the usual inseam stitch 40 which passes along the groove or' crease 36 and through the base 'of the "sewing edge. The improved welt is thus inseamed with a minimum of -welt beating or distortion by sewing, and "maybe" outseamed to the outsole-4| bythe customarystitch 42 without any appreciable 'reduction in the thickness of-the welt extensionil'due to excessive beating. ThB'WEltBXCBHSiOIl in the completed shoe, although only-5% thick inFig. 3,

accordingly has a=finalthickness equivalent to that'of the-regular Goodyearwelt after it is beaten.

The beaded welting 'just described "will thus serve --all the purposesof 'more expensive welting of this type and possesses thead'ditional advan tage of a more perfect iseamifiller beneath the feather-4'2 of the innersole; and it will be noted that the visible surfaces "of the welt extension and bead present-the desiredappearance of grain leather, while'the' inner fieshsurface'of'the bead lends itself morereadily to close-fitting engagement with'the upper. It "will also -be appreciated that the wi'de'sloping' bead surface 29 may be attractively ornamentedor decorated to en- "hance the style and appearance of the. finished "shoe.

In the optional .method of manufacture shown. in Fig. 6, a: fillet 5 2," wide and of the. same 'thicknessas that offFigs "1 and 2, has ,avertical cut extending downwardlyifrom the grainsurface, 5%" .from' the outer edge of'the fillet, and a lateral cut 45 extending inwardly of the fillet fromthe apex of cut' l liand corresponding to cut 23of Fig. 2, thereby'freeing anL-fshape'd strip fldwhich is suitable for use as a caulk w'elt. The remaining bead welt" strip 41" is cut, shaped and finished-inthe same'manner as previously explained.

The reverse --welt illustrated in .Figs. "7 i to 9,

as a modified form of this invention, is" made from a fillet 5| which may be 5" wide and -2 thick; and the fillet has a V-shaped groove 52 and an oblique inner edge out 56, corresponding to the cuts 22 and 26 respectively of Fig. 2, and providing a triangular bead portion 53 and flesh flap 54 corresponding to the bead 28 and flap 3i of the previous embodiment. Similarly, the flap 54 is bent downwardly onits narrow hinge until its bottom surface abuts the bottom surface of the fillet proper to which it is cemented, and that operation produces the crease-filling shoulder-55 as shown in Fig. 8.

Inthis case, the contiguous fiesh surfaces of the bead .-5.3.,and folded flap 54 are placed against the lasted upper and secured by the inseam stitch :51 before the bead is bent relative to the weltextension 58, as indicated by the full lines of 9; anditwill be noted that the inseam :followsthe groove 52 in the grain surface of the welt and passes through the base of the triangular bead. When'thus inseamed, the welt extension-:53 is bent upwardly on thegroove 52 "tothe dotted line position of Fig. 9, and the outsole may be appliedand outseamed thereto as in'Fig. '5. This operation closes the groove "5'2-and conceals the stitching 51, so that a shoe equipped with this reverse -weltalso presents a smooth grain surfaceyon the exposed faces of the bead and-welt extension.

, The modifications illustrated in Figs. 10 to '14 are essentially similar in purposetothe welting of Figs. 1 to 5 and 'possess substantially the sameadvantageswith a still further saving in material cos-ts, inasmuch-as thisrmodifiedbeaded welting may :be made-from afillet -in--width 'and /3" in thickness. -Such welting stock is thus no larger'than'that used "for "plain Goodyear welting, yet itis' formed'with a bead and a seam-filling, shouldered 'sewing "edge, and "has an effective width of"a:regular-half inch welt.

The filletBl ofyFigs. 10 and 11 has a V-shaped groove 62 in its .grain surface, spaced inwardly from its outer edge, and corresponding to the gro0ve'l22 of'Fig. 2; an angular base out including an oblique'leg 63 extending upwardly .and inwardly of .thefillet from its bottom surface, and a lateral .leg .fiflextending inwardly from the apex oftheleg153, paral1el"to and approximately 'forty-thousandths of .an inch'from said'bottom surface. "The angular cut enters the .base of the fillet '1 "from its --o.uter edge, and'forms a flesh lip 65 approximately%"long and corresponding .in purpose to the jlip"32 of "Fi .2.

'Thelinnere'dge of ffilletfil has anoblique out 66,1'like cut 1,26. of providing a triangular Tfie'sh .Zflap '6'! and ,a "triangular bead t8 and crease-filling .shouider 6.9, -corresponding to the flap 3 I, bead T28 and, 'shoulderf35 of said ffigure.

The bead '68is turned upwardly,. ,the flaps? and lip are foldeddownwardly. and inwardly, respectively, and cemented together, and the finished welt (Fig.11) 'is app1iedi-tothejshoe (Fig. .14) all in themannerexplainedinconnection withlFigs. 1 to 5. This modifiedweltingprm videsa normal width weltextension land a bead which, although appreciablysmallerthan that in Fig. 3, islargeenough. tofillthe .welt crease. and hold auniform seamline, and toprovide a dressed.and'finishedappearance ,in the completed shoe;'jthe sewing edgev is .of adequate thickness for proper' inseam stitching and pulls up tightly under ithe feather .H ,of the insole "l2; and the reduced thickness under; the we'ltextension will be made uniform by the light beating to which the welting is subjected by the shoe manufacturer. All these advantages are obtained in a beaded welting which may be sold to the shoe manufacturer at approximately the cost of ordinary Goodyear welting, and the welt shown in Figs. 11 and 14 is therefore preferred for general use.

In the additional modification illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13, the fillet H is similar in size to that of Fig. 10, and has a corresponding V-shaped groove 12 in its grain surface and oblique cut 13 in its inner edge, forming the bead portion 14 and the flesh flap 15 which are spread apart to present a wide flesh surface for application to the shoe upper. The base of fillet H is not provided with a foldable flesh lip, as previously described, but a triangular slot 16 is formed in its bottom surface to provide a stitch-receiving groove and to permit the bead to be bent upwardly on the top groove 12 (Fig. 14). It will be understood that the bending of the bead relative to the welt extension 11 moves the sewing edge or flap 15 inwardly, thereby increasing the effective width of the welt strip, and that this flap is bent downwardly beneaththe feather of the innersole to fill the welt crease, when the welt is applied to the lasted upper and secured by the inseam stitch.

In each of the several illustrated embodiments of this invention, a fillet of grain leather is grooved on its grain surface and also on its flesh surface, and an oblique slit is out in its inner edge, to produce a solid, triangular shaped bead which may be easily bent upwardly with respect to the welt extension, and a triangular flesh flap IR constituting a sewing edge which may be folded downwardly and, as preferred, cemented to the bottom of the fillet, thus spreading the flanges which are divided by said oblique cut-and presenting a wide convex surface for application to the shoe upper.

The slit or groove in the bottom of the fillet pemits the bead to be bent upwardly more easily, and the upward folding of the bead stretches the flesh part of the leather at the base of the sewing flange and renders it more pliable, thus facilitating the insertion of the inseam stitches which enter at the bottom crease or groove and pass through the base of the sewing edge.

The welt thus formed presents a grain surface on the welt extension and on the outer, exposed side of the bead, and a flesh surface on the inside of the bead and the sewing flap; and said flesh surface engages the upper of the shoe and the bottom flange or sewing edge fits snugly into the welt crease, so that the attached welt firmly holds the inseam line and prevents spreading or grinning of the head.

The respective optional forms of the improved welt possess special advantages according to the type, grade and selling price of the shoes in which they are to be incorporated and the style effect which is desired. For example, the flesh shoulders of the two-part sewing edge illustrated in Figs. 3 and 11 contribute particularly to a tight fit of the welt in the shoe; the form of Fig. 8 presents the fit and appearance of a Goodyear welt in a reverse welt application; and the welts of Figs. 11 and 13 provide firmness and style with great economy, and form a bead having a flat and nearly upright inner face which avoids the necessity of making an extra size up on sole patterns, as in the case of previous beaded welting, which tends to round out during application.

Although the improved welting is preferably made of a good grade of grain leather, it will be understood that many of the advantages of the welts herein described will be attained by the use of ungrained leather or other welting material; and it will also be understood that this invention is not intended to be limited to the specific materials, structures or processes above set forth, except as stated in the following claims.

I claim:

1. Beaded leather welting comprising a flat welt extension having a grain surface, an integral, solid bead projecting above the welt extension along the inner side of the welt, said bead having an inner flesh face, and an integral sewing flange disposed below the bead along said welt side, said flange having an inner face constituting a continuation of the inner face of the bead and the flange face having a protruding longitudinal shoulder adapted to fill the welt crease of a shoe to which the welting is applied.

2. Beaded leather welting formed from a flat fillet and comprising a flat welt extension having a grain surface, a solid triangular bead projecting above the welt extension along the inner side of the welt, said bead having a flat Outer grain face and a flat inner flesh face, and a sewing flange of flesh stock disposed below the bead along said welt side and having an inner face constituting a continuation of the inner face of the bead.

3. Beaded leather welting formed from a flat fillet and comprising a flat welt extension having a grain surface, a solid triangular bead projecting above the welt extension along the inner side of the welt, said bead having a flat outer grain face and a flat inner flesh face, and a sewing flange of flesh stock disposed below the bead along the inner side of the Welt and having an inner face constituting a continuation of the inner face of the bead, said flange including a substantially triangular flap folded downwardly and outwardly of the inner edge of said fillet and a lip folded downwardly and inwardly from the bottom of the fillet and secured to said flap.

4. Beaded leather welting formed from a flat fillet and comprising a, flat welt extension, a bead projecting above the welt extension along the inner side of the welt, and a two-part sewing flange composed of a substantially triangular flap folded downwardly from the inner edge of the fillet and a flat sided lip folded inwardly from the bottom of the fillet and cemented to the bottom of the folded flap.

5. A method of making beaded welting which consists in cutting an oblique slit extending forwardly and downwardly from the inner edge of the fillet to provide substantially triangular upper and lower flanges, and spreading said flanges so that the upper flange projects above the body of the welt to form a bead and the lower flange is folded downwardly to form a sewing edge.

6. A method of making beaded leather welting which consists in forming a longitudinal groove in the upper surface of the fillet along the inner margin of a welt extension thereof, cutting an oblique slit extending forwarding and downwardly from the inner edge of the fillet to provide substantially triangular upper and lower flanges, spreading said flanges so that the upper flange projects above the welt extension to form a bead and the lower flange is folded downwardly and forwardly of the fillet and against the bottom thereof to form a sewing edge, and cementing said lower flange to said fillet bottom.

7. A method of making beaded leather Weltens-t s t- QDS Q 11ZhlJ LT.GlJ- inten n f a dl ten yri om .the;.; n ed ;o *..the :fi l tt e an ular b a r rt o an -ia t a11y-triane 1ar fie hrfle hi i e to the .baseof-th fillet adjacent the zapexot said slit, making a longitudinal cut in the bottorn. of he e t -p@ m :b nd of he: ady qr and toiiorm a ,crease for il seam stitching and endin h ea rt o a o gv Said ro ve elative to the welt extension to provide an upstanding triangular bead having, an outer grain face and an inner fiesh face.

Amethod of Ina-king beaded: leather welting which consists ;in. forming a longitudinal groove inv the grain surface. ,of-sa fillet along the inner margin of a .welt lextensionthereof,cutting an oblique slit extending forwardlyand downwardly from the inner edge of the filletto provide a substantially, triangular bead portionand a substantially triangular fiesh fiap hinged to the base of ,the fillet adjacent the, apex of said slit, making .;a, longitudinal cut in thebottom of the fillet to permit bending of the bead portion and to form a crease for inseamstitching, folding the flap downwardly andoutwardly 'on said hingeand .against the bottonr of the. fillet and, cementing it thereto, and bending the bead portion upwardly along said groove relative to the ,weltexten- ,sion, thereby to providean upstanding triangular bead havingan outer grain face and an inner flesh iace, ,anda depending sewing .flange: of gflesh stock.

j9. A method of n akingbeaded leather weltin Which consists in forming a longitudinal groove in the grain surface of a nuet along the inner margin of a welt extension thereof, cutting an oblique slit extending forwardly and downwardly from the inner edgeof the fillet to .provide .asubstantially triangular bead portion and a substantially triangular flesh flap hinged to the base of the fillet adjacent the apex of said slit, cutting-the bottom of the fillet upwardly, and inwardly thereofo'to iorm a longitudinal lip and a stitching creaseatythe apex of said out, bendingthe bead portion upwardly along said groove relative to, the welt extension to providean upwhen L-lateraLslit extending inwardlyof the fillet par- ,allel to said bottom.

,il. A;.;method according to claim 9 in which ,the cutting ofzthesbottom of the fillet involves .a lateral cut extending inwardly from the outer edgebfthe fillet parallel to the bottom, and a vertical cut extending upwardly from ,thebottom andjoining the lateral out, remote from its apex, thereby,freeingarectangular strip. from the fillet.

i2. A-method according to claim, 9 in which the cutting of the bottom of the fillet involves .avertical cut extending downwardly from the top ofthe filletnear the outeraedge thereof, a lat- .eralcut extending inwardly-of the fillet 'from theapex of, said vertical cut and parallelto said bottom, and a vertical cut extending upwardly fromisaid bottom and joining the lateral cut remote from its apex, thereby freeing an L-shaped .strip fromthe outermargin of the fillet.

13, Ina Goodyear welt shoehaving an innersole. formed with a featheredge and a sewing lip, a iwpe whavin a ma e ng s feather andflli fin a o t .s e 2 beaded W l strip W a I substantially'fiat welt extension engaging said outer sole, a solid, substantially trianguiarbeadprojecting above the welt extension along theinner side of, the, strip and having a substan- ,tial ly flat inner, surface engaging the upper, and a sewing flange disposed below said bead along said strip side and having a longitudinal shoulder snugly fitting the welt crease of the shoe, below -the-featherof the inner-sole, the welt strip being inseamed to the innersole by stitching passing -thro h;the sewing lip thereof and'the base of said sewingfiange to holdsaidfiange in the welt crease.

WILLIAM C. VI ZARD.

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