US28754A - Congress boot - Google Patents

Description

UNITE@ STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HENRY S. HOLMES, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

CONGRESS BOOT..

Specification of Letters Patent No. 28,754, dated June 19, 1860.

T o all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY S. HOLMES, of Lynn, inthe county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture of Congress Gaiters; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description thereof, reference being had to It-he accompanying drawing, making part of this speciication.

My .invention relates to that class of gaiters commonly called Congress gaiters or boots, that is to say, boots or gaiters provided with elastic gores of shirred cloth. In the manufacture of these, it has been the practice of the operatives in sewing the gores yto the gaiter tops and linings to baste one side of the gore to the corresponding 'part of the gaiter top, first turning the edge of the gaiter top inward, vand then to stitch the two together. And in like manner the other side of the gore to the corresponding part of the Ygaiter top. This done the gore on the other side of the gaiter is secured in the same manner. The gores being thus united to the gaiter top, the lining has then to be united to the gaiter top and to the gores; a piece of suitable size and shape having been cutout of it on either side to correspond with the size and shape ofthe gores. This they effect by turning in the edges of the lining and hemming it down to t-he gores; the upper edges of the lining being then secured to the gaiter top by stitching a piece of binding ribbon to the outside of the gaiter top and turning itover the edge of the gaiter top and lining and hemniing it down upon the latter, from which it will be apparent that the present mode of securing the gores to the gaiter top and lining is at once costly, laborious, and exceedingly troublesome, and at the same time requires the employment of experienced and skilful hands; for the reason, that, inasmuch as the gores are secured to the gaiter top and.

to the linings by two separate and distinct seams, there must of necessity be an unequal tension or strain upon the gores from the two seams as it is almost impossible so to sew it, as that the two shall draw from the same points and in the same lines; and any departure from such points and lines must necessarily cause an unequal tension between them, and therefore unequal wear and unequal it accompanied by puckerings in the gores and breakage in the strands of the shirred or elastic cloth, examples of which may be found in almost every boot of this kind that has been worn a few times; and which, in a great measure, has been the cause of their not being more generallyused, as the gores from this cause are almost always bursting away either from the gaiter tops-or from the lining.

The object of my invention is to remedy these defects, and at the same time, lto produce a neater, stronger and better boot, at much less cost, because of the great saving of time and labor in its production, by dispensing with the various manipulations just described. And it consists in uniting thegores to the gaiter top and vlining by a single seam common to all in a manner `to be hereafter described, by means of which the tension may either be made equal on the gaiter topand lining, or it may be a regular uneven tension on the two, that is -to say, a greater but regular and uniform strain may be thrown on the gaiter top `than on the lining -and vice versa, as maybe required or deemed advisable.

To'euable others skilled in the art to make and use my improvement, I will now proceed to describe it in detail, here premising that -in the following description the employment of a sewing machine is presupposed, as they are now generally used in the manufacture of Ygaiters.

In the accompanying drawing Figure l, represents a plan of one half of the heel part of the gaiter top as cut out preparatory to being secured to the gore; and also the corresponding part of the lining. Fig. 2, a plan of a half of the front part of the gaiter top and the corresponding lining. Fig. 3, a plan of the gore. Fig. 4c, represents an end view of the edges of the half of the heel part of the gaiter' top, lining and gore, properly arranged and showing in red lines the seam which unites them together. Fig. 5, a plan of the same, the top and lining being turned over, preparatory to the other edge of the gore being secured to the corresponding half of the front part of the gaiter top and lining. Fig. 6, represents an edge view of the gore, front half of the gaiter top and lining as arranged preparatory to being sewed together. Fig. 7, represents a plan of one half of the gaiter, ready to be secured to the other half so as to form the complete gaiter top. Fig. 8, represents a section taken through the line 0c, of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9, a view of the gaiter top manufactured on my improved plan and lined at the bottom with a leather strip.

The cloth or other suitable material for the gaiter top, having been properly cut out into pieces of the requisite size and shape preparatory to being fashioned into gaiters, and also the corresponding pieces of the lining (as shown in Figs. l and 2): A gore (a) turned with its left side outward is placed over the outer side of one of the top pieces, for instance a half of the heel part (b) and after the edge of the gore has been properly adjusted over the corres onding edge of the top piece, the lining Zn)Y which is also turned with its right side inward, is placed over the gore (a) and top piece (b), and the three passed together under the needle of a sewing machine, so as to be united by a seam common to all, as shown in Fig. 4, which done, the top piece (Z2) and its lining (b) are turned over, so as to present the right side outward, as shown in Fig. 5, whereby the seam which unites them to the gore becomes inclosed and in a measure hidden. To the other edge of the gore (a) is then secured in a similar manner the corresponding front half (c) of the gaiter top and its lining (0') whereupon the top (c) and lining (0') are turned over with the right side outward, thereby inclosing the seam which unites them to the gore. One half of the gaiter top being thus completed, as shown in Fig. 5, a corresponding gore is secured in like manner to the two parts of the other half, that is to say, the other half (front and heel) of the gaiter top and lining: which when completed the two halves are sewed together in the usual way in front and rear: the lining is then turned over and the upper edge of the front and rear part of the lining and top sewed together in the same manner, a tug front and rear having previously been interposed between them; thus finishing the gaiter top ready to be soled.77 The principal difference in the appearance of gaiters manufactured on this plan is, that the seams which unite the gores to the body of gaiters are not visible-they being inclosed between the top and lining; while in all other Congress gaiters there is a stitching on the outer side of the gaiter top around the gores.

From the foregoing description of my improved plan of securing the gore to the gaiter top and lining it will be readily perceived that there is a great saving of time, labor and trouble, as compared with the old and Well known methods of securing the gores. Moreover it dispenses with various and tedious manipulations and also with skilled labor, as it can be done readily by new hands; and at the same time presents this advantage, that, the whole sewing may be effected solely by a machine, there being no hemming or other finishing requisite to be executed by handwhich heretofore has greatly enhanced the cost of manufacturing Congress gaiters.

Having thus described my improvement what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is- Securing the edges of the gores to the gaiter top and lining by a seam common to all, in the manner and for the purposes substantially as herein set forth.

In testimony whereof, I hereunto set my hand to this specification.

HENRY S. HOLMES.

itnesses ISAAC NEWHULL, I. HUNNAY.

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