US3162157A

US3162157A - Blind stitching means

Info

Publication number: US3162157A
Application number: US123343A
Authority: US
Inventors: Jr Rosario John Chinnici
Original assignee: PEERLESS SEWING MACHINE CO
Current assignee: PEERLESS SEWING MACHINE CO
Priority date: 1961-06-06
Filing date: 1961-06-06
Publication date: 1964-12-22
Anticipated expiration: 1981-12-22

Description

Dec. 22, 1964 R. J. cHlNNlcl, JR

BLIND sTITcHING MEANS 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 6. 1961 www.

Dec. 22, 1964 R. J. CHINNICI', JR

BLIND STITCHAING MEANS '7 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed June 6. 1961 INVENTOR..

4mm/Ev Dec. 22, 1964 R 1 CHlNNlcl, JR 3,162,157

BLIND sTITcHING MEANS Filed June 6, 1961 '7 Sheets-Sheet 5 IN VEN TOR. /PaM/P/a J/w {WMV/@ www. M

Dec. 22, 1964 R. J. cHlNNlcl, JR

BLIND STITCHING MEANS 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed June 6, 1961 S il m\ h CM x .m TML.

INVENTOR. fdr/4,6m JZ//N (MNM/@JR M w. CM

Armen/fr Dec. 22, 1964 R. J. cHlNNlCl, JR

BLIND STITCHING MEANS 7 Sheets-snee?l 5 Filed June 6, 1961 Dec. 22, 1964 R. J. cHlNNlcl, JR

BLIND sTITcHING MEANS 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed June 6. 1961 INVENTOR.

T l D fam/a JA/m/A//Q BY MA w CIM Dec. 22, 1964 R. J. cHlNNlcl, JR

BLIND STITCHING MEANS 7 Sheets-Sheet 7 Filed June 6, 1961 fin. l E.

IN VEN TOR. fame/a Jw //wA//q /k BY United States Patent lilice maar?? Patented Dec. 22 i964.

3,162,157 BLIND STITCHING MEANS Rosario John Chinnici, Jr., Garden City, N Y., assigner to Peerless Sewing Machine Company, New York, NX., a corporation of New York Filed June 6, i961, Ser. No. 123,343 3 Ciainls. (Cl. lib-176) This invention relates to sewing machines and more especially lto such machines equipped to produce stitching that is blind or unseen at a face of the fabric. The invention more particularly relates to such sewing machines -for blind stitching .a piece of material to a flat tape.

Sewing machines have been proposed heretofore for producing blind stitching, thatis, stitching which is not visible or may be only faintly visible at a face of the fabric. Machines for making belt loops, for example, have been constructed with devices for folding a strip of material lengthwise thereof, or for creating a longitudinal hump or ridge therein, through which fold or ridge the needle is passed in such a manner that the stitch is not visible or is only faintly visible at the face of the material which in the stitching operation is within the fold. In stitching a tape to a piece of material, for example to a garment, the fold has been formed longitudinally of the tape and the needle is passed through the arcuate portion of the fold at the exterior face of the thus -folded tape. Having regard to the thickness of the tape, the stitch thereby enters the structure of the tape so as securely to hold the tape to the material of the garment but it does not show or only faintly shows upon the face of the tapeV if, upon completion of the stitching, the tape is unfolded from its longitudinally folded position.v In such machines it is necessary to fold the tape at the folding device from its flat condition in a continuous -fold along the length of the tape and it has been found, after completing the stitching, that the tape does not readily resume its flat condition, especially when the tape is made with elastic elements ordinarily extending lengthwise of the tape in a closely woven structure.

`It also has been proposed, forexample in making belt loops, to fold in a suitable folding device a strip of Inaterial ordinarily with two folds respectively of the longitudinal edge portions of the strip toward the longitudinal center line of the strip, and thereafter to fold or bend the thus folded strip upon a line -crosswise of its length with the folded edge portions disposed outwardly in the bend. 'Ihe stitchingusually is effected by means of two needles piercing the bend at the respective sides of the center line or may be effected in a stepwise motion of -a single needle. In each case the needle is required to pass through the two folded edge portions of the `thus double folded material at either side of the center line as well as through the portions upon which they are folded. It is dicult to control the stitching, especially with elastic fabrics. Such belt loop strips are intended to beextended lengthwise again from the folding on the crosswise line but in their longitudinally folded form retain a somewhat rounded and not a at form.

In the sewing of tapes, particularly elastic tapes, to material for undergarments or the like, especially where this material itself if stretchable or elastic because of its structure usually made by special types` of weave, it isV desirable to maintain the strip or the elastic tape in a llat position and at against the material and to support the tape in this position as the stitching of the tape to the material is effected, so that the tape and the material may be better controlled for the sewing. It is, moreover, important to control the tension placed upon both the strip or the elastic tape and the tension on the material and to effect the feeding movement of these two parts which are to be stitched together in such a manner that, when the stitching is completed and the tape, if elastic, resumes its normal length, the desired amount of shirring will be provided which is suitable for the different forms of garments of this type.

It is an object of the invention to provide asewing machine capable of stitching Ia flat fabric with a stitch which is blind at one face of the fabric without elfecting longitudinal folding of the fabric.

It is another object of the invention to provide a sewing machine for stitching a tape along the length thereof with a -blind stitch at one face thereof without making a longitudinal fold therein.

It is a further object of the invention to stitch together a tape, which may be elastic, and a piece of material along the length of the flat tape applied to the piece with the stitching blind at the exposed face of the tape.

It is a still further object of the invention to provide means for controlling the movement of the flat fabric or tape as well as the piece of material inthe sewing machine, especially in stitching an elastic tape to a piece of material, which will bring the tape into the proper relation to the piece with respect to the length of the piece along which the tape is stitched.

it is an additional object of the invention to provide a puller attachment for la sewing machine which will con' trol the movement of a fabric or tape being stitched, or the movement of the tape and the material to which it is being blind stitched, in such a manner as to compensate for variations in the thickness of the materials and for prominences such as seams in the fabric or tape, or in the material to which it is being sewed.

Itis a feature of the invention in a broad aspect thereof to provide certain novel means to be described in association with a needle plate of a sewing machine which has an extent for supporting in at relation thereto a flat fabric or a flat tape to be stitched, the machine also having a needle supported for movement thereof lengthwise thereof' transversely of the needle plate and means for effecting movement of the flat fabric or the tape in a given direction over a face of the needle plate transversely of the line of movement of the needle. The novel means referred to includes means for effecting delivery of the flat fabric or of the tape from a location at a given side of the plane of the surface of the needle plate upon which the flat fabric or the flat tape bears, or upon which the material to which the tape is sewed bears. It also includes means `disposed adjacent the path of delivery and engaging the flat fabric or tape for changing the direc tion of movementof the fiat fabric or of the tape from an initial direction to the given direction of feeding movement of the at fabric or tape over the needle plate. This means for changing the direction of movement engages the flat fabric or tape so as to effect bending or fold- K ing thereof upon a line extending transversely of the given direction, this'line being adjacent the line of movement Y the fabric or of the tape.

, 3 1 1 of the needle. The disposition is such that the needle pierces the flat fabric at the outer face of the bend or in the outer portion of the arcuate fold of the flat fabric or tape to produce a stitch that is blind at lthe opposite face or the side of the fabric within the fold.

The means for changing the direction of movement of the Hat fabric or flat tape is such as to engage the flat fabric or the flat tape at one face thereof and in such manner that the line upon which the bend is formed or the line of the fold extends transversely of the given direction of movement fully over a transverse dimension of Thus, the need of effecting a longitudinal fold which may thereafter persist in the fabric orin the tape is obviated. The flat fabric or the hat tape as Ait movesr .throughout its extent remains in its flat condition transversely -of its length during the delivery thereof and as it passes the direction changing means, as well as 'after it leaves the direction changing means. The material to be stitched to the flat fabric or tape also remains flat, and is not required to bel stitched to a fold Which is not well supported as in the case of folding upon a longitudinally extending line.

In elastic tapes that are stitched to stretchable material such as is used in the manufacture of undergarments, the

yelastic elements of the tape ordinarily extend lengthwise of the tape and the weave is such that the tape will readily resume its flat condition when bent or folded upon a line extending transversely of'its length. These longitudinal elastic elements which constitute at least part of the warp ofthe tape usually are held quite closely by the transverse threads or weft which ordinarily are liner threads than the elastic elements, so that the construction resists the bending or folding along a longitudinal line to the f form required by conventional machines and also resists restoration of the tape from a thus folded condition to the flat condition. In the operation of the device of the invention the elastic elements of the tape may be readily bent to the form for the stitching and aid in restoring the tape to the at condition after it isrreleased from being bent or folded along the line transversely of its length for accomplishing the blind stitching by pas-sing the needle through the outer face of the bend or the outer arcuateV portion of the fold. When a tape is to be sewed to a of movement, as above mentioned, theinvention provides y a feed roll device disposedadjacent the *path of delivery of the flat fabric or tape as it moves toward the needle plate and the means for changing-the direction of movement ofthe tape; This feed roll device is constructed to engage and move the tape forwardly toward the direc- Vtion changing means while also providing for release of the tape froml the feed roll device so that it may be adjusted readily with respect to this feed roll device and 'to the direction changing'mea'ns and other parts. This feed roll Adevice and the direction changing means are disposed so las to V'engage and control the flat fabric or tape VWithout interfering with the normal feeding movement of the piece of material to which it is to be stitched.

To control the movement of the ii'at fabric or the dat tape as -it is being stitched, or movement of the llat fabric or tape stitched to Va piece of material, the invention provides afpuller rollV device of novel construction which makes it possible to change the forwardV movement of Vthe Vfabric or tape or'of the fabric or tape stitched to the .driving these rollers one from the other while also providing for separating or approaching movement of the rollers one relative to the other in accordance with the variations in the thickness of the tape or of the material or both such as may be caused by purposeful or fortuitous uneven fabric structure or by transverse seams or other causes. The kinematic means is of such construction that when the two puller rollers become separated a greater distance, one of them is rotated at a somewhat greater speed or Ithrough a somewhat greater `angle of rotation in order to pull a somewhat greater length of the yfabric or tape or of the tape and the material through the rollers. Conversely, when the spacing of the rollers becomes reduced, the amount of movement effected by the rollers also is reduced.

These and other objects and features of the invention will be more clearly understood from a description of the drawings to follow, in which:

FIG. l is a side elevation of a sewing machine embodyingthe invention;

FIG. 2 is a front elevation taken at the right in FIG. l',

FIG. 3 is a rear elevation taken at the left in FlG. l;

FIG. 4 is a section on line 4 4 of FIG. 3 showing an improved puller roller device;

FlG. 5 is a section on line 5 5 of FIGv l with certain parts removed;

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary section to enlarged scale taken on line 6 6 of FIG. 5 i

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary section taken on line 7 7 of FlG. 5;

FIG. 8 is a section on line 3 8 of FIG. 5;

FIG. 9 is a section on line 9 of FIG. 5;

FIG. l0 is a plan View showing to enlarged scale a needle plate element and the means for changing the direc tion of movement of the tape;

FlG. 1l is a section on line Il ll of FIG. 5 showing a clutch device;

7 FIG. l2 is a diagrammatic view in vertical section of a modified arrangement of the direction changing means;

FIG. 13 is a plan view from above in FIG. l2.

As shown in FIGS. l, 2 and 3, the sewing machine cornprises a frame 1 which may be mounted on a suitable base 3. The lframe l Iprovides a hollow space 4, FIG. 5, within which a conventional mechanism is disposed for effecting the usual movements of feed dogs and other parts, this mechanism being suitably operatively connected to the conventional means which effects movement of the needle to pierce the fabric or material being sewed. ln the embodiment shown 'the frame 1 provides a W-all 5 extending about the hollow space 4 and serving also for support of bearings and other parts which are necessary for the operation of the feed mechanism and for adjustment of the amount of feed. The top edge 7 of this Wall, FlGS. l and 6, is disposed adjacent and Vsomewhat below the horizout-al plane of movement of the material being sewed. A cover 9 having downwardly flared flanges 1l for protecting the material being sewed from engagement with certain Iparts of vthe mechanism which are disposed at the outer side of the wall S rests upon the upper edge 7 of the wall S and is secured to the wall or the frame by suitable means,'not shown. The top surface of the cover 9 provides a fiat surface in the horizontal plane for support in a conventional manner of the material as it moves from the front of the machine, from the right in FG. l toward the rear of the machine, at the left in FIG. l, past the locav tion of the needle and toward the location of a puller material to accommodate for variationsy in the thickness.l

ofthe fabric ortape 'or of the stitched material. This puller roll Adevice comprises two cooperating rollers and roller device Where this device is used.

In FIG. 5 the cover plate 9 is removed exposing the mechanism Afor effecting the feeding movements and the mechanical connection therefrom to and for operating the pullerrollers. Secured by screws 13 to the frame l is an auxiliary plate l5 which constitutes part of a conventional needle plate. This plate is provided with openings lftherein in which ,a front feed dog i@ moves horizon4 tally as well as with a slight vertical movement in a conventional manner. The front feed dog 19 is disposed ahead of or at the front side of the location of the needle 21, FIGS. l, 5 and 6. At the rear side of the location of the needle rear feed dog 23 is disposed for horizontal and vertical movement in slots 25 which are provided in an element 27 which, in accordance with the invention, is formed as part of the needle plate structure and provides a flat surface in the same plane as the at surface of the auxiliary plate 15, these two surfaces being disposed in the plane of the top surface of the cover plate 9, so that the three surfaces of the cover plate 9, the auxiliary plate 15 and of the element 27 provide the suppolt for the material -being sewed.

The front feed dogs 19 are formed as upwardly projecting portions of a feed bar 29, FIGS. 5 and 8, which is supported for its conventional horizontal and vertical movement by a bracket 31 having vertical guide legs 32 one of which is in bearing relation to a vertical face of the bar 29, the bracket 31 being supported on a 4portion of the frame 1 as shown in FIG. 8. The rear end of the feed bar 29 is provided with a slot 33 in which is disposed a rectangular element 35 which is supported on stud 36 secured in and projecting from a part of frame 1 for oscillating movement of the element 35. The upper and lower faces of the rectangular element 35 are in sliding bearing relation to the adjacent faces of the bar 29 at the slot 33, so that the feed bar 29 may move generally horizont-ally while also moving in pivotal movement upon the stud 36 to provide for the upward and downward movement of the front feed dog 19 concomitant with its horizontal movement within the slots 17.

The horizontal movement of the feed bar 29 is accomplished by conventional means which in this embodiment includes an arcuate arm 37, FIG. 8, secured upon a shaft 39 which, by means to be described, is given an oscillating movement in the vertical plane. A connecting rod 41 connects a stud 43 secured to the feed bar 29 with a mernber 45, FIG. 5 disposed at one lface of the arcuate arm 37, a companion member 47 disposed at the opposite face of the arcuate arm being secured by screws 49 to the member 45. The adjustment of the parts 45, 47 is such that this assembly maybe moved in sliding relation along the arcuate arm 37 to dispose a pin 51 to which rod 41 is pivotally connected at different positions along this arcuate ar-m, thus to produce greater or less horizontal movement of the feed bar 29 and of the dog 19 upon oscillating movement of the shaft 39. This disposition of the .pin 51 is accomplished by means of the curved connecting link 53 which connects the member 45 to a pin 55 carried at the outer end of arm 57 secured on shaft 59, FIGS. 5 and 8. Upon .angular movement of the shaft 59 upward and downward movement along the arcuate arm 37 is given to the member 45 and the pin 51 to secure respectively the greater and less arcuate movement of the pin 51 and therefore `greater and less horizontal movement of the feed bar 29.

To secure the angular movement of the shaft 59 and the arm 57 the shaft 59 extends through suitable bearings in the wall 5 of the frame 1 outwardly thereof. At the outer end of the shaft 59 is secured a manually operable arm 61 carrying a stud 63 upon which is operable a thumb nut 65, FIGS. l and 5. The stud 63 passes through a slot 67 in a plate 69 secured by screws 71 to the outer side of the wall 5 of the frame 1. By loosening the thumb nut 65 the arm 61 may be moved in angular movement about the axis of the shaft 59 upwardly and downwardly, the pin'63 moving along the slot 67, thereby to give angular movement to the arm 57 and upward or downward movement of the pin 51 as above mentioned. When, by this adjustment the desired horizontal movement of the front feed dog 19 is secured, the thumb nut 65 may be operated to clamp the arm 61 in position to the plate 69.

In order to provide the upward and downward movement of the feed dogs 19, the front feed dog bar 29 is provided with a lower parallel portion 73 forming with the 6 main part of bar 29 a wide slot in which slides a bearing member 75 having a circular bore 77 engaged by the circumference of an eccentric '79 secured on shaft 81. The shaft 81 and the parts carried thereby cooperating with the feed dog bar 29are of conventional design and provide for the vertical movement of the front feed dogs` 19 by virtue of the pivotal movement of the bar 29.upon the stud 36 as the shaft 81 rotates, the eccentric 79 being effective to move the bearing member 75 upwardly and downwardly with concomitant upward and downward movement of the bar 29 and its parallel portion 73 engaged by member 75. In the upward and downward movement of the bar 29 the vertical surface thereof engages the bracket 31 in vertical sliding relation thereto.

To accomplish the oscillating movement of the shaft 39 and of the arcuate arm 37 as described, there is secured upon the shaft 81, as shown in FIG. 7, a driving eccentric 83 to the circumferential surface of which is secured an inner face 85 of a ball bearing the outer race 87 of which is secured to the eccentric strap 89. Upon rotation of the shaft 81 to the eccentric 83 effects movement of the center of the eccentric strap 89 about the axis of the shaft 81.

An eccentric arm 91 is rigidly connected to the eccentric strap and engages at its outer and a crank pin 93. The pin 93 is supported in two upright legs 95 of a member 97 securely clamped by bolt 99 upon the shaft 39, the end hub portion of the eccentric arm 91 being disposed between the two legs 95. As the center of the eccentric 83 moves about the center of the shaft 81 to move the pin 93 to and fro horizontally, the legs 95 are pivotally moved about the axis of the shaft 39 to effect oscillating movement of this shaft and oscillating movement of the arcuate arm 37 as above described. The member 97 also is provided with an extension 101 extending downwardly with respect to the shaft 39 and carrying a pin 103, FIG. 7, upon which is pivotally supported a head 105 connecting rod'107. The other end of the connecting rod 107 carries a coupling head 109 and its cooperating cap 111 engaging a pin 113 secured to the downwardly extending arm 115, the pin 113 being disposed in and s lidable along a slot 116-to different positions at which it may be secured by operation of the pin 113, in nut 114. The arm is clamped by the bolt 117 on the shaft 119 of a pull roller mechanism further to be described.

It will be understood that the pivotal movement given to the legs 95 of the member 97 by the eccentric 83 also is effective to move the extension 101 and the pin 103 carried thereby in angular reciprocating movement, thereby to effect reciprocating movement of the head 109 through the connecting rod 107 and corresponding reciprocating movement of the pin 113 and the arm 115 pivotallywith the shaft 119. This action produces continued oscillation of the shaft 119 upon continued rotation of the shaft 81. The shaft 81 extends beyond the space 4 within vthe walls 5 of the frame 1 in FIG. 5, that is toward the right in FIG. 2, and is connected to driving mechanism and power means, not shown and conventional in a sewing machine, to effect rotation of the shaft 81.

Also secured upon the shaft 39 for oscillating movement therewith is a bracket 121, FIG. 9, secured by bolt 123. The bracket 121 is provided with a slot 125 in which is disposed a pin 127 extending parallel to the shaft 39, the pin being adapted to be clamped to bracket 121 in different positions along Vthe slot so as to be moved dierent amounts at the different positions outwardly from the axis of the shaft 39. Alink 129 is pivotally connected to a pin 127 and to a pin 130 secured in the downwardly extending part of a rear feed dog bar 131. The feed dog bar 131 is provided with a slot 135 in which is disposed a slide block 137 carried by theistud 36 secured in frame 1 for oscillating movement of the block on theV axis of this stud. The block 137 functions similarly to the block 35 in providing for pivoting movement ofthe feed dog bar 131 and for the reciprocating movement 7- thereof similar to that of the feed bar 29. -The pin 127, asY it reciprocates in the oscillating movement of shaft 39, cooperates with the link 129 and pin 130 to effect her1- zontal reciprocating movement of the feed dog bar 131 and the resulting reciprocating-movement of the rear feed dog.' 23 carried at the right lhand end of the bar 13 1 and. which, as shown in FIGQ9, is moved generally horizontallyin the. slots 23 as above mentioned.

The vertical movement of the feed dog 23 is accomplished by virtue of a bearing member 139 in engagement with the surfaces of lthe feed bar 131 and its lower portion 141 which deiine slot 143 in which bearing member 139 is disposed. Secured on shaft 81 is eccentric 145 the circumference of which is disposed in the bore ofthe member 139.. It will be understood, similarly to the bearing member. 75, that the mechanismjust described accomplishes the vertical pivotal movement of the feed bar 131 on the stud 343r while allowing for the horizontal movement thereof, so that the feed dog 23 is moved in a conventional manner both horizontally andpvertically in the slots 25. The feed dog bar 131 also is supported by the bracket 31 which provides the upwardly extending legs 32 between which the two feed dog bars 29 and 131 are disposed for the horizontal and vertical movement required thereof.

As maybe seen in'FIGS. l and 2, the needle 21 is supported in a needle carrying structure 151 which is movable downwardly and upwardly upon a cylindrical bar 153 extending downwardly from and supported by a superstructure .155, provision lbeing made for the usual thread guides Vandtension devices which are not part of the present invention, the thread, however, passing through a guide slot 157, FIG. 2, and downwardly to the eye of the needle 21. In the embodiment shown the cylindrical bar 153 is'disposed with its axis inl inclined relation to the vertical and the needle is supported so that its movement is in the direction of its length parallel tothe bar 153.

The sewing machine also is provided with the usual `presser foot 159,- FIGS. 1 and 2, which is of such form and extent as to press upon the material being sewed as it moves in engagement with the

feed dogs

19 and 23. The pressure is exerted upon the presser foot 159 by the toe 161 of a lever 163 supported for pivotal v movement upon a bearing member 16S. suitably supported by the frame 1. The pressure is exerted upon the Vlever 163 by a pressure member 167 guided in housing 168 and biased by a spring or otherwise downwardly in` FIG. 1 to bring a roller 169 carried by the member '167 intoengagement with a circular notch 171 formed at the upper side of the lever 163. The lever 163 also, for convenience in removing the presser foot from the location of the feed dogs, is supported upon stud 173 for swinging movement away from the locationgof these dogs and of the needle toward the left in FIG. 2.

v Theline of movement of the needle which is parallel to the cylindrical bar 153 passes through the plane of the element 27 and of the auxiliary plate 15 ata location between the front feed dog 19 and the rear-.feed dog 23.

lThe element 27 is formed :in this embodiment with an v edge portion 175, FIGS. and 10, the edge 177 of which isstraight and extends at an -angle 'to ythe line fof movement of the material being s ewed along which movement is effected bythe feed dogs 19 Yand 23, this line of movement being generally parallel to the horizontal movement of the feed bars 219 and 131. The edge 177 of the element 27 may be slightly rounded in the thickness of the element, as indicated lby the shading in FGS. 5 and 'As shown -in FIG. V6, theelem'ent 27 isset in a recess 179 cut in the upper face of the auxiliary plate 15. The

CFI

element 27 is secured -to the plate 15 by a slotted head so as to be flush with the surface of the element 27 and for clamping the element in place. The element 27 has an edge 187 extending parallel to the line of movement of the feed dogs in engagement with the adjacent edge 139 of recess 179 provided in the auxiliary plate 15. The opposite edge of the element 27 parallel to the edge 187 engages the opposite edge 19% of recess 179. The

edges

189 and 190 serve as guides for the element 27 so that this element may be moved parallel to the line of feed and disposed in different positions along this line of feeding movement. Thus, a notch 191 formed in the edge portion 175 of the element 27, as shown in FIGS. 5 and 1G, by virtue of the adjustment which is possible in the provision of the screw 181 and the slot 183 is adjustable to different positions relative to the line of movement of the needle in order that this needle shall be brought into the right relation to the flat fabric or the tape to be stitched to provide for the blind stitching which it is the purpose of the invention to secure.

In the embodiment being described the element 27, and particularly the portion 175 and the edge 177 thereof, constitutes means for changing the direction of movement of the flat fabric, illustrated in the drawing by a tape 195. Auxiliary means to be described are provided for controlling the movement of the tape 19S in a path of delivery which in this embodiment is effected toward the location of the needle from below the needle plate and the element 27. The tape, as it approaches the element 27 in this embodiment, moves in a horizontal plane below the element 27 and the auxiliary plate 15 perpendicular to the line of horizontal movement of the feed dogs. When the tape reaches the edge 177 of the element 27 it is turned upwardly, as shown in FIGS. 6 and 10, and then proceeds toward the left, as shown in part in dot and dash lines in FIG. 10. Thus, the tape 195 is bent or folded about the edge 177 and then is moved in the direction designated herein as the given direction parallel to the line of movement of the feed dogs, being brought into this given direction from an initial direction of movement which in this embodiment is vertical, perpendicular to the paper in FIG. l0, upwardly in FIG. 6, at the edge 177 of the element 27 and about a line which is transverse to the given direction of movement. In this embodiment the line of the edge 177 is at 4 to the given direction.

The delivery of the tape 195 toward the needle plate, that is, toward the element 27, is effected in a path extending generally transversely of the plane of the face of the needle plate and of the element 27 upon which the tape and the material are moved in the sewing operation. It will be understood, where the delivery of the tape 195 is horizontal toward the location of the needle and at right angles to the line of movement of the feed dogs as in FIG. l0, the edge 177 of the plate being disposed at 45 to the line of movement of the feed dogs, that the edge 177 also is at 45 to the horizontal delivery of the tape, so that when the tape is turned up over the edge 177V it may proceed in the given direction of movement which is parallel to the movement of the feed dogs and parallel to the movement of the material being sewed.

In order to dispose the tape. as it moves parallel to the given direction of movement properly With respect to the material to which it is to be sewed, an edge guide 197 is supported upon a bracket 199 secured by screw 201 to the frame or" the machine. The guide 197 is held by screw 263 which may be disposed in a slot 265 extending generally horizontally in guide 197 to provide for movement of the guide 197 toward and away from the tape along the line parallel to the edge 177, so that the edge 198 of the guide 197 may be brought into engagement with the adjacent edge 196 of the tape. The bottom edge portion of the guide 197 engages andis siidable along a groove 20d in the element 27. As shown in FIG. l0, the material 207 which is lto be sewed to the tape is fed from the front part of the machine by the feed dog 19,

, in changing its direction.

a portion of this material being broken away in FIG. 10 to show the element 27 and its relation to plate 15. The material is disposed above and in contact with the upper face of the portion of the tape 195 which extends from the edge 177 upon the top surface of the element 27 and toward the left in FIGS. 6 and l0. The feed dog 19 controls the forward movement of the material 207. Since the feed dog 23 is disposed forwardly in the line of movement, that is, toward the rearward side of the machine with respect to the needle 21, the feed dog 23 effects movement of the tape 195 in the forward direction as shown by the arrow in FIGS. 6 and 10.

The stitches 2139 are inserted by the needle adjacent the notch 191 by suitably adjusting the element 27 toward the left or right in FIG. 10 and by suitably adjusting the guide 197 along the inclined line parallel to the edge 177 v of FIG. l0. The tape as a fiat fabric thus may be brought into such relation to the needle 21, as the tape is bent or folded over the edge 177, that the needle passes through the outer part of the bend or fold, that is to say, through the outer arcuate portion of the fold. The needle thus may insert stitches in the tape which, although they appear on the outer surface of the tape at the bend or fold, are blind on the inner side which is ,disposed against the edge 177. These stitches, if it is so desired for decoration or other purpose, may be inserted in the tape without sewing the tape to a piece of material. Ordinarily, however, a piece of material 297 is to be stitched to the tape with blind stitching on the face of the tape which is at the opposite side thereof from the material 267. In such case the needle inserts the stitches through the material and into the fold of the tape, the relation of the tape to the needle being determined by the element 27 and its edge 177 and by guide 197.

It will bei noted that the fold or bend which is made in the flat fabric, in this case the hat tape 195, is along a line which is transverse to the lengthwise extent of the tape and that this fold or bend is made without eecting any longitudinal fold in the tape. The tape is retained in its at condition throughout its extent and width, although it is bent or folded as it moves over the edge 177 Especially with elastic tapes having elastic warp threads running lengthwise of the tape, the fold or bend which is made at the edge 177 without longitudinal folding `or creasing is not retained but the tape resumes its at condition as it proceeds in the given direction of movement, that is, parallel to the line of movement of the feed dogs. To support the tape 195 as it is delivered toward the needle and toward the direction changing edge 177 a tape support and guide plate 211 is disposed beneath the element 2'7 and fastened by screws 212 to the underside of the auxiliary plate 15, the auxiliary Aplate being provided with a recess 213 at its lower side through which the tape may move until it reaches the edge 177 of the element 27. The tape thereupon bends upwardly, as shown in dotted lines in FIG. 6, and then intothe given line of movement toward the left, FIG. 10. The needle 21 then effects the blind stitching as has been described.

To control the delivery of -the tape 195 or a at fabric as it moves toward the direction changing edge 177, the sewing machine of the invention is provided with a feed roll device for effecting undirectional movement of the tape generally toward the needle plate, that is, toward the location where the direction of movement of the tape v 10 223 to which at the left end of the feed roll 215 in FIG. 2 a crank member 225 is secured. The outer portion of this crank member is provided with pin 227 which is adjustably held in slot 229 of the crank member, FIG. 1, to provide a lever arm of greater and less length upon the axis of the feed roll 215. To the pin 227 is pivotally connected a connecting rod231 which at its opposite end is pivotally connected 'to pin 223 which is carried by'an eccentric 235 secured upon the shaft 81, this shaft being extended through the wall 5 of the frame. Upon rotation of the shaft 81 driven in the manner above described, the eccentric 235 is etfective to provide movement of the axis of the pin about the axis of shaft 81 and reciprocating movement of the crank member 225 as well as reciprocating movement of the disc 217, thereby, by virtue of the action of the balls 221 of the clutch, to

produce intermittent unidirectional rotation of the feed roll 215 in the direction of the arrow in FIG. l1.

Cooperating with the feed roll 215 is a presser roll 237 supported for rotation on its axis, this axis being eccentric to the axis of a shaft 239 carrying the eccentric 241 the outer circumference of which engages the inner surface of the presser roll 237. Thus, it will be apparent, upon angular movement of the shaft 239 on itsaxis counterclockwise in FIG. 11, that the presser roll may be moved from the position shown in full lines in FIG. l1 with its periphery in engagement with the periphery of the feed roll 215 to a position shown in dotted line in this figure. This angular movement is effected by means of a hand lever 243, FIGS. 1, 2 and 5, against the bias of a spring 245 one end of which is held by pin 247 to the support 249 which supports the fed roll 215 and presser roll 237 for rotation thereof on their axes, the spring 245 being wrapped about a member 251 carrying lever 243, this member 251 being connected to the eccentric 241. The spring has its outer end engaging the hand lever 243, to bias the lever in the clockwise direction, FIG. 1. Pressure upwardly upon the lever 243 in FIGS. 1 and 2 will effect counterclockwise movement of the presser roll 237 away from the feed roll 215, so that a tape or flat fabric which has been inserted between these

rolls

215 and 237 is not gripped for feeding or delivery movement thereof. Upon release of the hand lever 243 the presser roll 237 returns to engagement with the feed roll 215 or with the fabric or tape disposed therebetween and upon rotation of the shaft 81 intermittent feeding movement of the fabric or tape is effected toward the left in FIGS. 1, 5 and 11.

As shown in FIG. 5 a guide element 253 is provided for guiding the tape 195 from the horizontal left hand movement thereof in FIG. 5 upwardly generally toward the needle plate and its element 27, so that thetape may move through the slot 213 when inserted therein and proceed to the location of the edge 117 about which the tape is to be bent or folded in the manner which has been described. It will be noted that the delivery of the flat fabric or the tape toward the needle and the direction changing element 27 is provided in a path which extends generally transversely to the face of the element upon which the tape or, the fabric is to be stitched and from the side of the plate which is opposite the face thereof. Thus the tape is moved into proper position for the stitching without interference with or by the material to which it is to be sewed. Moreover, the tape itself it brought into the position where it is foldedalong the line transversely f of the length thereof and folding or bending thereof is accomplished without obstructing the view of the operation at the location at which the needle is to penetrate either the tape alone or the material being sewed -to the tape. It is furtherl possible,.because there is no such interference, that the material which is approaching the needle may be lifted from the plane of the needle plate and the surface of the element 27 in order to examine the relation of the needle to the tape, even though the stitching of the material tothe tape has proceeded to a certain extent. This method of delivery of a flat fabric of predetermined width, such as a tape, is such that the desired blind stitching of the tape is accomplished While retaining its dat condition, that is, Without longitudinal folds but merely an easily removed transverse fold orV bend along aline which extends` for the full Width of the Vflat fabric or tape transversely of its length.

of movement that is parallel to the vmovement ofthe feed bars. In suchvca'se, however, to secure the desired change of direction concom-itantly With movement of the tape from the location atrone sidepof the plane of the surface of the element 27, this being the upper surface ofthe needle plate in this embodiment, delivery of the tape would be elected at the. opposite side of the plane, that is, beneath the needle 'plate in lthis embodiment, in the direction generally towardthe front of the machine, that is, toward the right'in FIG. 5, the direction ofmovement of they tape thenrbeingV etected upwardly into engagement withthe thus disposed edge 177, the direction then being changedl from an initial upward movement of the tape over the. bend or fold deiining ledge Y177 into the given direction of movement parallel to the movement of the feed bars 29and 131. The disposition and directions of movement provided in the embodiment shown in the drawings and being described above, however, is preferable because horizontal movement of the tape beneath the .auxiliary plate and the element 27 is secured clear of the operating mechanism of the sewing machine and maybe controlled by the feed roll 215 and its presser roll 237 which also may be disposedso as not to interfere with the other parts of the sewing machine mechanism, as Well kas soV that this feed control device may relative to shaft 265 rotatable in bearings provided in f the arms of a yoke 267. Upon the shaft 119 is clamped a forked arm 269 by bolt 271; In .the oscillating movement of the shaft 119 effected by the eccentric 83, the connecting rod 167 and therbra'cket 115, a pin 27.3 carried upon `a crank disc 275 and kdisposed in a slot 277 formed betweenlthe forks of the arm 269 is given a reciprocating movement to effect oscillating movement of the disc 275. This disc is supported for rotation on the axis of and relative to shaft 265 and is constructed similarly to the disc 217 of FIG. ll with recesses and spring pressed ballsv in the ,recessesl so asto effect intermittent unidirectional rotation of the puller roller 263. The disposition and arrangement of the sockets and balls in the disc 275 is such, as viewed in FJGS. l and 7, that the roller 263 isl rotated clockwise on the shaft 265. By

means to be -described the puller roller 263 is pressed ,downwardly into vengagement with the puller roller 261 and the roller 261Vthen inlayy be krotated counterclockwise onthe `shaft 119, FIG. l, this shaft being supported for this-rotation in brackets 279 and 2&1, FIGS. land 3 Vwhich lextend outwardly from and Vare ksupported by a plated'233 secured by bolts 285 tothe frame 1 ofthe ported for pivotal movement on a pin 28S a lever 289 biased by spring 291 in the clockwise direction in FIG. 3, the right hand portion 293 of the lever being disposed for engagement with a pin 295 carried by an upright 297 slidable in a casing 299, the pin 295 extending through a slot SG1 in a wall of the casing 299. Upon counterclockwise movement of the lever 289, the portion 293 thereof engages the pin 295 to move it and the upright 2&7 upwardly. rhe yoke 267 is secured by bolt 203 to the lower end of upright 297 so that in such upward movement of the upright the puller roller 263 is moved upwardly away from the puller roller 261. Within the casing 299 is disposed a spring, not shown, engaging the upright 297 so as to bias this upright and the yoke 267 carried thereby downwardly, thereby to bring the puller roller 263 into engagement with the puller roller 261 or into engagement with the ilat fabric or tape or with the flat fabric or tape and the material sewed thereto.

in such upward and downward movement of the puller roller 263 and disc 275 and the pin 273 carried thereby are moved upwardly and downwardly. It will be seen in FIG. 4 that the pin 273 thus is moved further outwardly from or brought closer to the axis of vthe shaft 119, thereby correspondingly to change the lever arm about this axis which is eective in the forked arm 269 to apply the force to the pin 273 at a greater or less radius. Thus,

greater or less movement of the pin 273 is effected and the bracket Zigi/support a strucgreater or less angular movement of the disc 275 upon the axis of the shaft 265. In the reciprocating movement of the forked arm 269 and consequent reciprocating angular movement of the disc 275, the roller 253 thereby is given a greater or less angular movement in the direction indicated, counterclockwise in FiG. 4, clockwise in FIG. l, to effect greater or less forward movement of the tape or of the tape and the material stitched thereto.

It will be understood, when the tape or flat fabric or the combined tape or hat fabric and material stitched thereto are of such form and construction that there is variation in the thickness of the tape or of the tape and the material stitched thereto, that separating or approaching movement of the roller 263 with respect to the roller 261 may take place against or under the bias of the spring Within the casing 299. In this embodiment, if a greater thickness of material passes into the bight of the two rollers such as might be caused by a seam, for example, the roller 263 `vill be lited from the roller 261 and the pin 273 will move upwardly in the slot 277 and will be given a greater movement thereby to effect a greater degree of angular movement of the puller roller 263. This will accomplish a greater forward movement of the matenial which is being pulled through by the

rollers

261, 263. When this thick portion of the material being handled has passed the

rollers

261, 263, the roller 263 will drop again toward the roller 261 and less movement of the pin 273 and less rotational movement of the roller 263 will occur to reduce the amount of material pulled forwardly by the rollers in each stioke of the forked arm 2e@ effected from the eccentric S3 as above described. Having regard to the provision of the slot 3&1 and the bias means for the upright 2M, this movement of the roller263 is accomplished with the

rollers

261 and 263 continuously in contact with the tape or with the tape and the material stitched thereto.

Thus, in summary, the puller roller 261 is mounted on the shaft 1.19, this shaft being oscillated through arm driven by connecting rod'lil'? and the connections to they eccentric 83. The puller roller 261 is rotatable relative to the shaft 119; thus oscillation of the shaft 119 does not cause oscillations of the roller 261 which would tend to eifect both forward and reverse feeding movement. The forked'arm 269 which is clamped upon the shaft 119 engages the pin 273 carried upon the crank disc 275 and in each oscillation of the shaiit 1119 this pin 273 and disc 275 will be given an ocillating movement. Within the puller roller 263 ,is disposed a one-way clutch similar to that shown in FIGURE 1l, and described above. Thus upon reciprocating movement of the shaft 119, the puller roller 263 will be moved intermittently a certain amount in one direction only. The roller 263 is supported for slidable movement vertically in the casing 299 so that when a thick place in the stitched fabric reaches the roller 263 this roller will be lifted and this is possible because of the engagement of the pin 273 in the forked yarm 269. When such a thick place reaches this roller device, the peripheral movement of the roller 263 will be increased because the pin 273 will engage the forked arm 269 at a greater radius and, therefore, with the same arc of movement of the shaft 119, the pin will be moved a greater distance and the periphery of the roller 263 will also be moved a greater distance. Thus, a greater forward movement of the material which is thick will be effected by the

rollers

251, 263 as compared with the movement effected by these rollers when the material is thin.

rIlhe feed dog 23 will cooperate with the feed dog 19 to hold the material 207 and tape 195 in somewhat stretched relation as with any sewing machine. However, where the thickness of the tape or the material stitched thereto or their combination, such as at a seam, is greater, the length of surface coming into contact with the puller rollers 261, 253 is increased, but the distance between the puller roller device and the feed dog 23 is not changed; hence the material might buckle in this distance and not be drawn forward uniformly if an ordinary puller device were used in place of the puller device just described. The latter device provides for taking care of such variation in thickness and effectively cooperates with the normal feed dog 23 to maintain the fabric in the desired somewhat stretched condition so that any buckling or folding will not be transmitted back to the feed dog; such buckling or folding might result in the condition that the fold of the tape 19S is not held closely against the element 27 in order that the needle shall pass through only the thickness of the strip to produce a blind stitch upon the exposed face of the tape.

It will be understood that the amount of forward movement of the tape or of the tape and the material stitched thereto may be adjusted by adjusting the position of the pin 113, FIG. 7, along the slot 116 in the bracket 115, in order to accommodate to different types of goods and different degrees of stretchability both of the tape and of the material stitched thereo. The amount of angular movement of the puller rollers Zei, 263 and therefore of the forward pull which is to be effected by these puller rollers thus is adjusted. It will be understood also, having regard to the variation in the stroke which it is possible to obtain for the crank member 225, FIGS. 1 and 2, for feeding the flat fabric or the tape to the direction changing means as described, that the adjustment which is possible to effect the forward pull of the stitched tape and material by the

rollers

261, 263 secures concomitant operation of these two devices. These adjustments also may be effected so as to conform to the forward feeding of the tape and of the material to be stitched thereto by the feeddogs 23 and 19, these two feed dogs being adjustable with respect to each other bythe operation of the lever,61, FIG. 1, and by adjusting the position of pin 127, FIG. 9, in the manner described above.

In the modification of FIG. 12 and 13 the normal needle plate 311 of a conventional sewing machine is utilized on the upper surface 313 of which the material to be sewed is moved in the direction of the arrow, toward the left in'FIGS. l2 and 13. This movement may be effected k by the front feed dog 19 toward the location of the needle 21, FIG. 13. Forwardly of the needle in -the direction of movement, that is, at the rear side of the needle in the machine, the rear feed dog 23 is disposed. The

feed dogs

19 and 23 are moved horizontally and vertically in the manner which has been described above in connection with these feed dogs.

The conventional presser footv for holding the material to be sewed down upon the needle plate is modified in fthe embodiment of FIGS. 12 and 13 and comprises a plate element 315 between which and the top surface 313 of the needle plate the material to be sewed moves toward the left. The plate element 3'15 is provided at its end disposed toward the front of the machine with a diagonal edge 317. In this embodiment this edge is disposed at an angle of approximately 45 with the line of movement of the material, that is, with the horizontal line of movement of the

feed dogs

19 and 23 but may be disposed at other suitable angle. secured thereto by suitable means is disposed a guide 319 spaced from the upper face of the plate element 315 sufficiently to provide for insertion of the tape into the space 321 between the plate element 315 and the guide 319, this tape moving horizontally at right angles to the line of movement of the feedpdogs as it enters the space 321, as shown in FIG. 13. The tape 195 then is turned downwardly over the diagonal edge 317 and then moves horizontally toward the left in FIGS. 12 and 13 beneath the plate element 315.

When the material to which the tape is to be stitched is fed toward the left by the feed dog 19, the tape 195 at its bottom face will engage the top surface of the material and the tape and the material in this relation will pass between the plate element 315 and the needle plate 311 toward the pdller rolls, not shown in FIGS. 12 and 13 but disposed as in FIGS. 1, Sand 7. It will be understood that the tape may be delivered downwardly toward the' needle plate from a holder, not shown, supported above the sewing machine and then may be carried horizontally into the space 321. The horizontal movement is continued, guided by the guide 319 until the tape is bent over the diagonal edge 317 of the plate element 315. This diagonal edge is disposed adjacent the line of movement of the needle 21 transversely of the needle plate and of the plate element and so that the needle may pierce the tape at the bend or fold thereof which is formed along the line of the edge 317 of the plate element. The stitching action is similar to that previously described to secure the blind stitching.

As shown in FIG. 10 the stitches 209 which are exposed at an upper face of the material 207 extend in diagonal relation to the length of the tape 195. This diagonal disposition of thel exposed part of each stitch results from passing the needle through the fold of the tape formed along the inclined edge 177 of the element 27. .Since this fold or the arcuate portion thereof has a cert-am eX- tent about the edge 177 between the part of the tape which is disposed below the element 27 and the part of the tape which is above this element at the edge 177, and because of the angular relation of the direction of movement of these two parts the needle in moving downwardly first will pass through a point on the tape which rs drsposed in a given relation to the upper edge of the iirstV part of the tape moving toward the left in FIG. l0 and then, continuing through the arcuate portion, the needle again will pierce the tape below the edge 177 at a point offset from the first point further toward the upper edge of the tape. The result is that the lower right hand end of the diagonalV exposed part of a stitch 209 as it appears in FIG. 10 is disposed at the first point and the upper left hand end of the next exposed stitch to the right is disposed at the second point of piercing the tape, the thread between these points being blind within the body of the tape. 'The diagonal disposition of the stitches not only contributes to the decorative appearance of the tape at the side where the stitches appear, or at the surface of the material sewed to the tape, but also provides for more easily Veldending the tape and the material stitched thereto in the direction parallel to the length of the tape, especially where the tape is elastic and the material is of such weave that stretching therein may take place. In this oase the stitches do not prevent this stretching and the elastic return of the tape and of the material to their nor- Above the plate element 315 andv v rl mal positions, as is required in undergarments provided with elastic tape. Y

Referring again to FIGS, 3, 4 and '7 showing the puller rollerV mechanism and to FGS. 8 and 9 showing-the mechanism for accomplishing the horizontal reciprocating movements of the

feed dogs

19 and 23, it will be noted, by virtue of providing the extension 101 of the member 977 which is secured-upon the oscillating shaft 39, that both the stroke of the downwardly extending arm M5 and, therefore, of the forked arm 269 are changed whenever the amount of horizontal movement of the feed dogs is changed, this being accomplished by varying the eccentricity of the eccentric 83. The variation of this eccentricity of eccentric 83 and of the eccentric strap 89,

with respect to the axis of the shaft Si is accomplished by conventional means disposed within housing 32S, FIG. 5, which contines a slide member 327 for movement thereof transversely' of the axis of the shaft $1. The construction of this device forms no part of the present in- ,vention but accomplishes the chan-ge of eccentricity upon operation of a push button 329 adapted to be pushed into engagement with a notch 331 for holding a part 33 Y against movement when the shaft 81 is rotated by hand.

The simultaneous adjustment, however,` of the horizontal movement of the feed dogs and the stroke of the Vforked arm 269 is thereby accomplished an increase or decrease of the forward pull of the tape by the puller rollers, or of the tape and the material stitchedrthereto, are secured when the amount of feeding movementof the feed dogs is increased or decreased.

Although ein the embodiment described and shown more particularly in FIGS. 3 and 4 mechanical drive of the upper puller'roller 263 isefected through the arm 115, the forked arm 269, the pin 273fanddisc 275, if desired thefshaft 119 may be .disposed in relation tov the upper pullerroller 263 as thisshaftfis disposed in relation to theflower puller roller 261, FIG, 3. The positions. ofV the forkedV arm 269 and of the crank disc 27S may be inverted, the clutch device being'suitably disposed so that the lower puller roller 261 is positively driven and the upper roller 263 held in engagement with the lower roller 261 is driven thereby by friction. The same advantageas to securing a greater movement of the tape, or of the tape and the material stitched thereto, is provided in such modification. v n v The invention has'been described in connection with a sewing machine designed principallyfor industrial operations, the conventional needle plate having been modified to provide the auxiliary plate and the direction changing element'27 or the plate element 315., It will be understood that the essential features of the invention may be embodied in machines of different design and for different purposes and that diierent devices for effecting the feeding movements accomplished by the feed dogs and for support of the fabric or tape and of the material to be sewed ther-etc may be used to suit different conditions of operation, the essential feature being retained of changing the direction of movement of lthe flat fabric or flat tape from an initial directionv to the given direction as described, so as to form a bend or fold transversely of the fia-t fabric or tapethrough which the stitch may be f passed. Other means than those shown in the drawings also may be provided for feedingtthe tapeito the direction changing means, as well as to effect the change of angular movement of the puller rollers in correspondence with the separation of the rollers to accommodate variations in the thickness of the materials passing therebetween. All such variations are intended to come Within the scope of the appendedclams.

I claim: Y v

l. ln a sewing machine the combination with a needle plate having feed slot therein, said needle plate having an upper surface and an extent for supporting yin fia-trelation to said upper surfacea flat fabric to ybe stitched, said fabric-having a predetermined width, a needle supported for movement lengthwise thereof in a line of move-ment transverse to said upper surface of said needle plate, and means cooperating with said needle plate for effecting feeding movement of the flat fabric lengthwise thereof transversely of its width in a given direction over said upper surface of said needle plate and transversely of the line of movement of the needle, of means for effecting delivery of said fiat fabric lengthwise thereof toward said line of movement of the needle, in a path extending beneath said needle plate in a direction transverse to said given direction, and in a plane generally parallel to said given direction, from a location at the side of said plate opposite to said upper surface thereof, and means disposed adjacent said path of delivery and engaging the flat fabric for changing the direction of movement of said fiat fabric from said direction of said path of delivery to said given direction, said direction changing means engaging said flat fabric in changing said direction of movement thereof to effect folding of said flat fabric upon a line which is in a plane generally parallel to said upper surface of said needle plate and which extends transversely of said given direction in inclined relation both to said given direction and to said direction of said path of delivery, said line being disposed adjacent the line of movement of the needle and so that said needle pierces the fabric adjacent the outer face thereof at said fold to produce a stitch that is blind at the face of the fabric within said fold, said direction-changing means comprising an edge portion of said needle plate providing an edge engage-d by a face of said fiat fabric as it moves lengthwise thereof and over which edge said fabric changes its direction of movement, said edge determining said line which extends transversely of said given direction.

2. In a sewing machine for sewing together a length of a flat fabric of predetermined width and a piece of material in facing relation thereto the combination as defined in claim l in which said means cooperating with said needle plate for effecting feeding movement of the dat fabric comprises a rear feed dog disposed in relation to said line of folding of the fiat fabric spaced forwardly in said given direction of movement of said fabric to engage the lower surface of said flat fabric advancing in said given direction from said direction-changing means in dat relation to said upper surface of said needle plate, and a front feed dog disposed in alignment with said given direction of movement of the fiat fabric and at the front side of said transverse line of folding with respect to said rear feed dog `for feeding said piece of material in said given direction forward'lyinto lapping engagement with said flat fabric adjacent said line of folding so that said piece of material is located on the upper surface. of said flat fabric as said fabric advances in said given direction from said direction-changing means and so that the needle effects stitching of said piece of material to said flat fabric blind at the face of said dat fabric opposite to said lapped material.

3. In a sewing machine the combination as defined in claim 2 which comprises puller means engaging said flat fabric and said piece of material moving in said given direction from said rear feed dog for effecting said movement in said given direction concomitantly with the delivery of said flat fabric by said delivery means to maintain said flat fabric in said at relation to said face of said needle plate for engagement with said rear feed dog and to maintain the bending of said fiat fabric at said line extending transversely of said given direction as said flat fabric moves past said line, said puller means comprising a puller roller supported for rotation on its axis and disposed forwardly of said rear feed dog in said given direction and adjacent said fiat fabric and said piece of material, a backing roller supported for rotation on its axis and disposed adjacent and cooperating with said puller roller for engaging the fiat fabric and the piece of material passing between said rollers as said fabric and material move forwardly from said rear feed dog, and means for undirectionally rotating one of said rollers to effect said movement in said -given direction as aforesaid.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 5 Bosworth Dec. 11, 1877 Arbes Aug. 6, 1901 De Voe Nov. 4, 1919 De Voe Nov. 4, 1919 Hughes Mar. 10, 1925 10 Mueller June 8, 1926 18 Seaman Dec. 24, 1935 Riviere May 11, 1937 Buono Feb. 15, 1938 Sigoda Oct. 31, 1950 Dickerman Feb. 17, 1953 Lakso Ian. 8, 1957 Reimer Sept. 1, 1959 Cantil Apr. 17, 1962 FOREIGN PATENTS Germany Dec. 22, 1933

Claims

1. IN A SEWING MACHINE THE COMBINATION WITH A NEEDLE PLATE HAVING FEED SLOT THEREIN, SAID NEEDLE PLATE HAVING AN UPPER SURFACE AND AN EXTENT FOR SUPPORTING IN FLAT RELATION TO SAID UPPER SURFACE A FLAT FABRIC TO BE STITCHED, SAID FABRIC HAVING A PREDETERMINED WIDTH, A NEEDLE SUPPORTED FOR MOVEMENT LENGTHWISE THEREOF IN A LINE OF MOVEMENT TRANSVERSE TO SAID UPPER SURFACE OF SAID NEEDLE PLATE, AND MEANS COOPERATING WITH SAID NEEDLE PLATE FOR EFFECTING FEEDING MOVEMENT OF THE FLAT FABRIC LENGTHWISE THEREOF TRANSVERSELY OF ITS WIDTH IN A GIVEN DIRECTION OVER SAID UPPER SURFACE OF SAID NEEDLE PLATE AND TRANSVERSELY OF THE LINE OF MOVEMENT OF THE NEEDLE, OF MEANS FOR EFFECTING DELIVERY OF SAID FLAT FABRIC LENGTHWISE THEREOF TOWARD SAID LINE OF MOVEMENT OF THE NEEDLE, IN A PATH EXTENDING BENEATH SAID NEEDLE PLATE IN A DIRECTION TRANSVERSE TO SAID GIVEN DIRECTION, AND IN A PLANE GENERALLY PARALLEL TO SAID GIVEN DIRECTION, FROM A LOCATION AT THE SIDE OF SAID PLATE OPPOSITE TO SAID UPPER SURFACE THEREOF, AND MEANS DISPOSED ADJACENT SAID PATH OF DELIVERY AND ENGAGING THE FLAT FABRIC FOR CHANGING THE DIRECTION OF MOVEMENT OF SAID FLAT FABRIC FROM SAID DIRECTION OF SAID PATH OF DELIVERY TO SAID GIVEN DIRECTION, SAID DIRECTION CHANGING MEANS ENGAGING SAID FLAT FABRIC IN CHANGING SAID DIRECTION OF MOVEMENT THEREOF TO EFFECT FOLDING OF SAID FLAT FABRIC UPON A LINE WHICH IS IN A PLANE GENERALLY PARALLEL TO SAID UPPER SURFACE OF SAID NEEDLE PLATE AND WHICH EXTENDS TRANSVERSELY OF SAID GIVEN DIRECTION INCLINED RELATION BOTH TO SAID GIVEN DIRECTION AND TO SAID DIRECTION OF SAID PATH OF DELIVERY, SAID LINE BEING DISPOSED ADJACENT THE LINE OF MOVEMENT OF THE NEEDLE AND SO THAT SAID NEEDLE PIERCES THE FABRIC ADJACENT THE OUTER FACE THEREOF AT SAID FOLD TO PRODUCE A STITCH THAT IS BLIND AT THE FACE OF THE FABRIC WITHIN SAID FOLD, SAID DIRECTION-CHANGING MEANS COMPRISING AN EDGE PORTION OF SAID NEEDLE PLATE PROVIDING AN EDGE ENGAGED BY A FACE OF SAID FLAT FABRIC AS IT MOVES LENGTHWISE THEREOF AND OVER WHICH EDGE SAID FABRIC CHANGES ITS DIRECTION OF MOVEMENT, SAID EDGE DETERMINING SAID LINE WHICH EXTENDS TRANSVERSELY OF SAID GIVEN DIRECTION.