US 3829901 A
A method of fabricating a coat, jacket, or other item of apparel in which an outer shell is provided with a lining involves application of a connecting strip or strips to the outer shell, and separate prefabrication of the outer shell and the lining. The method comprises the steps of carrying out the various operations of construction of the shell of the coat on one production line, including the sewing of a fastening strip extending from the bottom edge of an armhole to the bottom edge of the shell on the inner face thereof, fabricating the lining on a separate and distinct production line, and then assembling the lining on the inner face of the shell by sewing its edges to edges of the shell and strip.
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United States Patent 1 Massetti et al.
[ Aug. 20, 1974  Filed:
. METHOD FOR FABRICATION OF LINED WEARING APPAREL  Inventors: Abraham Massetti, Jessup; Rocco N.
Ciullo, Scranton, both of Pa.
 Assignee: U.S. Industries, Inc., New York,
Apr. 25, 1973  Appl. No.: 354,352
 References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 4/1928 Blumenthal 2/93 5/1953 Persico 7/1961 Bubes 2/93 Primary Examiner-Werner l-i. Schroeder Attorney, Agent, or Firm-D. Paul Weaver  ABSTRACT A method of fabricating a coat, jacket, or other item of apparel in which an outer shell is provided with a lining involves application of a connecting strip or strips to the outer shell, and separate prefabrication of the outer shell and the lining. The method comprises the steps of carrying out the various operations of construction of the shell of the coat on one production line, including the sewing of a fastening strip extending from the bottom edge of an armhole to the bottom edge of the shell on the inner face thereof, fabricating the lining on a separate and distinct production line, and then assembling the lining on the inner face of the shell by sewing its edges to edges of the shell and strip.
The wearing apparel hereof comprises an outer shell with an inner surface, having a connecting or fastening strip affixed to its inner surface in such manner that the connecting strip has a free edge. The free edge of the connecting strip is employed in the connection of a prefabricated lining to the shell.
2 Claims, 3 Drawing Figures PATE NIE 10201914 D W A l B M G W. W m0 E ,D D A P m S L ED HN A METHOD FOR FABRICATION OF LINED WEARING APPAREL BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION extent thereof is widespread. The method of fabricating or constructing such garments which is now followed in the industry, is to make the coat, with the lining assembled therein, as a continuous operation. Thus, the shell of the garment must have the lining attached thereto at a particular stage in its manufacture, and subsequent operations are performed after the lining is so attached. All of the operations in this sequence of production are ordinarily carried out by the same operator.
This now prevalent method cannot be conducted with a high degree of efficiency so far as the time of the operator is concerned inasmuch as the sequence requires differentiation of operations. Moreover, maximized efficiency in fabrication is achieved by specialization of the skills of individual operators.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to the applying of lining to the shell of a coat and is concerned primarily with a new and novel method in which the shell and lining are fabricated independently of one another, after which the lining is attached to the shell by sewing the same to a specially provided attachment strip. This includes stitching of an inner edge of the lining to the strip, the strip extending from the lower edge of an armhole of the garment or other predetermined location thereon, to the bottom edge of the shell. The strip, in such method, has been theretofore incorporated in the shell by a prior operation within the terms of this method.
With the foregoing conditions in mind, the present invention comprehends the following objectives: (1) to provide a method of constructing a partially lined coat which may be carried out with a high degree of efficiency in the time consumed in fabricating the coat by reducing the number of handling operations; (2) to provide a method of the type noted in which the shell and lining of the coat are fabricated separately, after which the lining is attached to the shell by a unique method and means; (3) to provide, in a method of the character aforesaid, the step of stitching a strip on the inner face of the shell as an operation in the production of the shell, and which strip extends from an armhole or other predetermined location, to another predetermined location of the shell; and (4) to provide, in a method of the kind described, the step of assembling the lining on the shell in which an edge of the lining is sewed to the strip.
. The invention may be further summarized as contem- "plating the attachment of a strip of material in blind stitch fashion to the inner surface of the outer shell of a garment as a step in the manufacture of said garment outer shell, whereby the strip is subsequently utilized as a means for incorporation in the garment of a separately fashioned lining for the shell.
The foregoing is achieved, in a particularized embodiment of the invention, by constructing the garment shell of a coat, with the sleeves omitted, on one production line, during the operations of which a pair of fabric strips are sewed to the inner face of the shell on lines extending from the lower edge of the arrnholes to the bottom edge of the shell. The lining comprises two sections which are fabricated on other and different production lines. Each of these sections of lining are then assembled in the shell by sewing what is to become the inner edges thereof, after assembly, to the strips, with the remaining edges being sewed to the peripheral edges of the oppositely disposed areas of the shell to be lined.
Other and further objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from a consideration of the following specification when read in conjunction with the annexed drawing.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF TI-IE'DRAWING FIG. I is a disassembled elevational view illustrating a portion of the interior of a coat shell, a fastening strip to be attached thereto, and a section of lining;
FIG. 2 is a diagrammatic depiction of the steps of the method of this invention; and I FIG. 3 is a view of the inside of a garment such as a coat with one piece of lining fully assembled therein, and another section partially completed.
DESCRIPTION OF A PREFERRED EMBODIMENT Referring to the drawing in more detail, a portion of the outer shell of a coat is illustrated in FIG. 1 and designated generally by reference character l0. It is the inner face 100 of the shell 10 which appears in this figure. The shell 10 includes a central back panel 11a, a portion of which is shown at 11, and front panels 12 which are sewed at opposite sides to the back panel 11 along seams 13. The front panels 12 have bottom edges defined by hems l4, sides or outer edges 15, and top edges 16. The shell portion 10 is formed with arrnholes 17. This description of form and structure, insofar as it relates to the outer shell of the garment, is by way of designation of the environment of this invention, and is common to prior art coats as well.
Unique to coats and the like constructed within the teachings of this invention is a fabric fastening strip 18, shown in FIG. 1 in an isolated condition. The strips 18 are of a length, in this form of the invention, equal to the distance from the lower edge of one of the arrnholes 17 to the bottom edge 14 of the garment. The position to be assumed by the strips 18 when sewn to the shell 10 are indicated by broken lines 19 in FIG. 1. It will be observed that each of the strips 18 includes strip side edges 18a and 18b.
One of the sections of lining to be attached to the shell 10 is also shown in an isolated state in FIG. 1, and designated by reference numeral 20 therein. The lining section 20 has an inner edge 21, a bottom edge 22, an
shell 10, At a convenient stage in these operations, one of the strips 18 is sewed to the inner face of the front panel 12 along the areas represented by each pair of lines 19. The strip 18 is sewn intermediate the side edges 18a and 18b along a line of stitching 180 so that the areas between the central stitching line and the side edges 18a and 18b are free and access thereto may be had for additional sewing operations.
The block26 represents that separate and independent production of the lining sections 20 occurs. Such sections are of course, formed in opposite hand fashion for the two sides of the coat.
As inferred in the annexed illustration of the invention, after the shell and linings have been separately produced, as on production lines and 26, the lining sections being assembled with the shell by sewing each lining 20 to the inner face of each front portion of the shell 10. This is accomplished through stitching of the edge 21 to the fastening strip 18 along one free edge of the strip and on one side of the central line of stitching 18c which attaches the strip to the shell. With the linings thus attached to the strips, the attachment of the bottom edges 22 to the bottom edges 14, the outer edges 23 to the outer edges 15, the curved edges 24 to the corresponding portions of the armholes l7, and the respective top edges 24a together follows without necessity for particular skills in alignment or stitching procedures.
Subsequent conventional operations such as the adding of sleeves and a collar are then performed.
1. A method of manufacturing a lined jacket or like article of apparel comprising the steps of constructing a jacket outer shell having arm holes, attaching to the interior of said shell during the construction thereof a pair of flexible material narrow strips which extend substantially from the bottoms of the shell arm holes to the lower edge of the shell by single lines of stitching which substantially bisect the strips longitudinally to thereby create longitudinal free edge portions on the strips on opposite sides of the lines of stitching, separately constructing a jacket lining for subsequent application to the interior of the shell including lining side sections, and then attaching the separately constructed lining to the shell by stitching interior edges of said lining side sections to corresponding free edge portions of seams in substantially parallel relation thereto.
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