US 685524 A
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N0. 685,524. Patented 0ct.'29, I90|.-
WOVEN FABRIC FUR INSDLES.
(Application mea nec. a, 1900.1
"Vm/m* 'WW STATES WILLIAM MCILWAIN, or PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.
WOVEN FABRIC FOR INSO'LES.
SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 685,524, dated October 29, 1901.
Application filed December 3, 1900.V Serial No. 38,404. (Specimens.)
To all whom t may concern:
Be it known that I,- WILLIAM MCILWAIN, a citizen of the United States, residing in the city and county of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Woven Fabrics for Insoles, dac., of which the followingis a specification.
My invention consists of a fabric that is especially adapted for the manufacture of insoles for boots or shoes, the object being to vprovide a fabric that produces an insole possessing the requisite stiffness and durability, while both faces have the necessary softness and pliability.
Figure l represents a face'view of an insole made from a fabric embodying myinvention. Fig. 2 represents a face View of a portion of fabric embodying my invention. Fig. 3 represents a longitudinal section thereof taken on the line .fr x of Fig. 2. v Fig. 4 represents a face view of one ply of the fabric, the binder warp-threads being omitted. Fig. 5 represents a longitudinal section thereof taken on the line y y of Fig. 4.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the figures.
Referring to the drawings, A designates the insole of a shoe, the same consisting of a piece of fabric that is so woven that both faces thereof are soft and pliable, as is desirable, and which also possess the necessary stiifness and durability throughout. The said fabric is woven double or two ply, both plies being composed of the same medium-weight thread, so that both faces are the same in iineness,
the weight of the thread employed being such that the requisite smoothness and pliability are imparted.
In Figs. 4 and 5 portions of asingle ply are shown to illustrate the Weave, B being the warp and C the weft, the warp being composed of single threads, while the vweft consists of two threads. The two plies are united by binder-warps D, composed of two threads each of the same weight as that of the single warp-threads composing either ply. These binder-warps D .occur at intervals-for instance, after every fourth single warp of both plies, as shown in Fig. 2. The said binder warps together pass alternately to opposite sides of the fabric between adjacent wefts C,
of-that is to say, the binder-warps D form part of the exposed faces of the fabric, as well as the warp-threads B. This distinL guishes my fabric from the ordinary two-ply fabrics that are joined by binder-warps, for, as far as I am informed, these binder-warps are always of a much lighter weight thread, and which, therefore, owing to their size, do not form part of the face of the fabric, as in my invention. It is further 'understood that the exposed faces of the plies can be plain or twilled, as the specific weave thereof does not alter 'or change the character of my fabric, which consists, as before stated, in employing a medium-weight thread for the weft, the warp, and the binder-warp.
In Fig. 4 I have shown a ytwilled face, and in Fig. 2, where I have shown one face of the completefabric, the same Weave inthe ply whose face is shown, is retained. Furthermore, from Fig.A 3 it willbeseen how the binder-,warps D form part of the face of the fabric, as their exposed side is iiush with the exposed side of the warps B. The fabric thus formed I have found in practice is sti enough to answer the purpose for which an insole is intended; but by the use of medium-Weight threads the face possesses smoothness and pliability necessary in the insole of a shoe. This stidness is secured -by the manner of Weaving in connection with the mediumweight threads, the wefts C being composed of two threads throughout and the binderwarps being also composed of two threads and occurring after every fourth single warp of both plies. The two plies are also bound with greater safety and security by using a medium-weight binder-warp, as said plies are not apt to become separated by the breaking of the binder-warp, as it is when made of fine thread. The fabric for an linsole should beso c0n- IOO 'structed that it presents a soft face and should possess a certain degree of stiffness, so that when the sizing is applied it will be stiffeued sufficiently to serve as an insole.
The advantage of my invention is that I first produce a fabric either face of which can be used as an insole, because I use throughout medium-weight threads, which afford the requisite softness. Further,by` using mediumweight thread for both plies and the same weight thread as a binder-warp and by working two binder-warps as one I am enabled to bind the two plies together sufficiently strong and with the requisite security. Furthermore, as before stated, the binder-warps form part of the face of the fabric, and the requisite stiffness is imparted owing tothe fact thatboth plies are composed of medium-weight threads, which plies are secured together at every other pick by two binder-warps of the same weight working as one. It is understood that the fabric is saturated with a suitable sizing liquid either before or after the sole is cut out.
In my fabric I use binders of two threads of the same weight as the warp-threads, which I consider an improvement over other binders for the following reasons: In the construction of this fabric it is essential that it be a multiple-ply fabric made of medium-weight yarns, for the reason that a single cloth would of necessity have to be made of such heavyweight yarns in order to produce the necessary thickness of the fabric as to render the face of the cloth harsh and uneven. A smoothness and pliability in the fabric requires the use of medium-weight yarns, and in order to effect the desired thickness of the fabric it is absolutely necessary to make it multiple ply. lVhile I have shown that a multiple-ply cloth is necessary to the proper construction of the fabric, yet the ultimate purpose of this fabric (it being cut up into small pieces) requires that it should have all the qualities of durability and compactness which are found in a cloth of single ply. It is for this specific pur- Y pose that my binders are an improvement.
ceases Heretofore a binder-thread has had but one distinct feature-this is, to join the two plies together-and is itself buried out of sight below the face of the goods. In my use of the double binders it not only binds the plies into one compact cloth, but it (the binder) has also the additional and important characteristic of being in itself a part of each of the two faces of the fabric. This results in a greater number of threads appearing on the surface or face of the fabric than otherwise would. It is obvious that such arrangement must add to the smoothness of the face of the fabric. Also as smoothness of surface to the cloth is required the two-thread binder is an improvement over a single-thread binder, for in the use of a single binder the weft of the cloth which is bound alternately is drawn down to a more or less extent by the pull of the binding-thread, thereby detracting from the smoothness of the face of the goods. In using a two-thread binder the fact of it being double equalizes the depression in the cloth made by the binding, and thereby preserves the evenness and smoothness of the face of the fabric.
I am aware that two-plylfabrics have been made in which the threads of both plies were of the same-weight thread; but as far as I am informed the binders have always been of considerably lighter-weight threads and never appear on the face of the fabric, While in my fabric they are face-warps, as well as binders-in fact, are just as much face-warps as the other warps, being a full beam and appearing as a face-warp at every other pick on both faces of the completed fabric.
I'Iaving thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-
l. A multiple-ply fabric consisting of medium -weight warp and Weft threads, and binder warps consisting of a plurality of threads of the same weight Working as one and uniting the wefts of both plies at every other pick.
2. A multiple-ply fabric, each ply of which is composed of medium-weight warp and weft threads, and face-warps binding said plies and consisting of threads of the same weight as the other warps.
Jol-IN A. WIEDERSHEIM, WM. C. WIEDERSHEIM.