WO1995013413A1 - Textile fabric - Google Patents

Textile fabric Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO1995013413A1
WO1995013413A1 PCT/GB1994/002450 GB9402450W WO9513413A1 WO 1995013413 A1 WO1995013413 A1 WO 1995013413A1 GB 9402450 W GB9402450 W GB 9402450W WO 9513413 A1 WO9513413 A1 WO 9513413A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
filaments
filament
yarns
yarn
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB1994/002450
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Nicholas Brown
Original Assignee
Nicholas Brown
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Nicholas Brown filed Critical Nicholas Brown
Priority to AU81118/94A priority Critical patent/AU8111894A/en
Publication of WO1995013413A1 publication Critical patent/WO1995013413A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile fabric, in particular to a textile fabric having moisture transmissive properties, especially suitable for the manufacture of clothing for sport or outdoor wear.
  • the present invention provides a fabric having three or more, preferably three, interlocking layers of different yarns, each layer using yarns having filaments of greater diameter than the preceding layer, so that the fabric has a gradient of filament or fibre packing density across the layers.
  • Such a fabric has water transmissive properties.
  • the fabric may be knitted from three or more yarns to provide the layered structure.
  • the fabric is produced by warp knitting, for example by tricot or raschel warp knitting.
  • the present invention provides a warp knitted fabric knitted using three or more, preferably three, bars, each bar using a yarn having filaments or fibres of greater diameter than the yarn on the preceding bar, so that the fabric has a layered structure exhibiting a gradient of filament or fibre packing density.
  • the layers are integrated into a unitary body by the knitting process, and so the desired gradient is exhibited by taking average values across the fabric.
  • the fabric In its natural state, the fabric has hydrophilic properties, with water being transmitted to the most densely packed side of the fabric, where on average the filaments are finer.
  • the least densely packed layer In manufacturing clothing using such a fabric, the least densely packed layer would normally be next to, or facing towards, the skin, so as to transport perspiration from the user's body to the outside of the clothing.
  • the fabrics of the invention may be treated with a water repellent composition to provide a fabric whose water transmissive properties are reversed from that of the untreated fabric.
  • the fabric can be treated with a waterproofing composition such as disclosed in US Patent No. 51 69891 .
  • the coating of the filaments of the yarns with such a composition reverses the water transmission properties.
  • An article of clothing so coated would thus be worn with the most densely packed layer closest the wearer's skin, so that it sheds water.
  • the fabric As the fabric is formed by warp knitting, the fabric retains an open structure and as such remains “breathable", whether it is being used in hydrophilic mode - transmitting perspiration away from the "skin” side, or hydrophobic mode - shedding water from the "outdoor” side.
  • the transmission properties are due to filament sizes not filament type (polymer, porosity, etc) and so the fabric can be produced from yarns of the same overall composition but using different filament sizes.
  • Either face of the fabric may be brushed or sueded to produce a desired feel or texture to the fabric without destroying the water transmissive properties.
  • a textile fabric in accordance with the preferred embodiment of the present invention has a filament-packing density gradient structure formed by 3-bar warp knitting the fabric from three yarns with filaments of different diameters.
  • the smallest diameter filaments, placed in one outer layer can be tightly packed. Filaments of slightly greater diameter, placed in the middle layer, cannot be packed so tightly, so are more highly spaced.
  • the largest diameter filaments, placed in the opposite outer layer become least densely packed.
  • the warp knit fabric is characterised by having a gradient in the packing density of the constituent filaments, resulting from the fact that the denier of the filaments on average progressively increases from one face of the fabric to the other.
  • a three bar knitting machine is operated with a different denier yarn on each bar, and then instituting a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament underiaps appear on the technical back.
  • the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap.
  • An alternative procedure is to overfeed the back bar so that it protrudes through the surface of the technical back as a pile. Then the technical back of the fabric is raised to pull the course filament yarn into the raised face.
  • the yarns used may have a spread of filament dimensions, ranging from micro to greater than 1 denier.
  • the smallest diameter filaments are in 50/70 yarns (where the first number refers to the weight in grams of 1 0,000m of filament and the second number refers to the number of individual filaments making up the yarn).
  • the increasingly larger diameter filaments or fibres are typically 60/40 and 50/20 yarns respectively.
  • a breathable waterproof fabric has been a composite of several layers, each layer using yarns of different polymers each having different properties.
  • a fabric in accordance with the present invention can be formed from many types of fibres or filaments. Especially suitable are polyesters, but other synthetic fibres commonly used in the clothing industry, such as polyamides or rayons, may also be used.
  • the form of the fibres or filaments may be varied to suit particular applications, for example air-textured or trilobal, or plain. Natural fibres, such as wool, silk or cotton may also be used.
  • the fibres or filaments can be made up into multi-filament yarns or staple yarns, which can be used individually or in combination.
  • Each Example is based on the use of a 28 needle per inch tricot warp knitting machine with 3 bars, set up so that the raised face is technical back and the fine filament face is technical face.

Abstract

A textile fabric has a filament-packing density gradient structure formed by 3-bar warp knitting the fabric from three yarns with filaments or different diameters. The smallest diameter filaments, placed in one outer layer, can be tightly packed. Filaments of slightly greater diameter, placed in the middle layer, cannot be packed so tightly, so are more highly spaced. The largest diameter filaments, placed in the opposite outer layer, become least densely packed. Thus the warp knit fabric has a gradient in the packing density of the constituent filaments, resulting from the fact that the denier of the filaments on average progressively increases from one face of the fabric to the other. The fabric has hydrophilic properties, with water being transmitted to the most densely packed side of the fabric, where on average the filaments are finer. In manufacturing clothing using such a fabric, the least densely packed layer would normally be next, or facing, to the skin, so as to transport perspiration from the user's body to the outside of the clothing.

Description

TEXTILE FABRIC
The present invention relates to a textile fabric, in particular to a textile fabric having moisture transmissive properties, especially suitable for the manufacture of clothing for sport or outdoor wear.
The present invention provides a fabric having three or more, preferably three, interlocking layers of different yarns, each layer using yarns having filaments of greater diameter than the preceding layer, so that the fabric has a gradient of filament or fibre packing density across the layers.
Such a fabric has water transmissive properties.
The fabric may be knitted from three or more yarns to provide the layered structure. Preferably the fabric is produced by warp knitting, for example by tricot or raschel warp knitting.
In a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a warp knitted fabric knitted using three or more, preferably three, bars, each bar using a yarn having filaments or fibres of greater diameter than the yarn on the preceding bar, so that the fabric has a layered structure exhibiting a gradient of filament or fibre packing density. In such a fabric the layers are integrated into a unitary body by the knitting process, and so the desired gradient is exhibited by taking average values across the fabric.
In its natural state, the fabric has hydrophilic properties, with water being transmitted to the most densely packed side of the fabric, where on average the filaments are finer. In manufacturing clothing using such a fabric, the least densely packed layer would normally be next to, or facing towards, the skin, so as to transport perspiration from the user's body to the outside of the clothing. The fabrics of the invention may be treated with a water repellent composition to provide a fabric whose water transmissive properties are reversed from that of the untreated fabric. For example, the fabric can be treated with a waterproofing composition such as disclosed in US Patent No. 51 69891 . The coating of the filaments of the yarns with such a composition reverses the water transmission properties. An article of clothing so coated would thus be worn with the most densely packed layer closest the wearer's skin, so that it sheds water.
As the fabric is formed by warp knitting, the fabric retains an open structure and as such remains "breathable", whether it is being used in hydrophilic mode - transmitting perspiration away from the "skin" side, or hydrophobic mode - shedding water from the "outdoor" side.
The transmission properties are due to filament sizes not filament type (polymer, porosity, etc) and so the fabric can be produced from yarns of the same overall composition but using different filament sizes.
Either face of the fabric may be brushed or sueded to produce a desired feel or texture to the fabric without destroying the water transmissive properties.
A textile fabric in accordance with the preferred embodiment of the present invention has a filament-packing density gradient structure formed by 3-bar warp knitting the fabric from three yarns with filaments of different diameters. The smallest diameter filaments, placed in one outer layer, can be tightly packed. Filaments of slightly greater diameter, placed in the middle layer, cannot be packed so tightly, so are more highly spaced. The largest diameter filaments, placed in the opposite outer layer, become least densely packed. Thus the warp knit fabric is characterised by having a gradient in the packing density of the constituent filaments, resulting from the fact that the denier of the filaments on average progressively increases from one face of the fabric to the other.
To obtain such a gradient, a three bar knitting machine is operated with a different denier yarn on each bar, and then instituting a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament underiaps appear on the technical back. To achieve this, the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap. An alternative procedure is to overfeed the back bar so that it protrudes through the surface of the technical back as a pile. Then the technical back of the fabric is raised to pull the course filament yarn into the raised face.
The yarns used may have a spread of filament dimensions, ranging from micro to greater than 1 denier. Typically the smallest diameter filaments are in 50/70 yarns (where the first number refers to the weight in grams of 1 0,000m of filament and the second number refers to the number of individual filaments making up the yarn). The increasingly larger diameter filaments or fibres are typically 60/40 and 50/20 yarns respectively.
It is a feature of the fabrics of the present invention that they can be warp- knitted from yarns all of the same polymer and still retain their moisture transmissive properties. Hitherto, a breathable waterproof fabric has been a composite of several layers, each layer using yarns of different polymers each having different properties.
A fabric in accordance with the present invention can be formed from many types of fibres or filaments. Especially suitable are polyesters, but other synthetic fibres commonly used in the clothing industry, such as polyamides or rayons, may also be used. The form of the fibres or filaments may be varied to suit particular applications, for example air-textured or trilobal, or plain. Natural fibres, such as wool, silk or cotton may also be used. For knitting, the fibres or filaments can be made up into multi-filament yarns or staple yarns, which can be used individually or in combination.
The following Examples set out specifications for producing fabrics in accordance with the present invention. Each Example is based on the use of a 28 needle per inch tricot warp knitting machine with 3 bars, set up so that the raised face is technical back and the fine filament face is technical face.
Example 1
CONSTRUCTION TO OBTAIN GRADIENT
Institute a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament overlaps appear on the technical back. To achieve this, the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap.
YARNS COUNTS EMPLOYED: FRONT 50/70
MIDDLE 60/40 BACK 50/20
TYPE OF FILAMENTS EMPLOYED: PLAIN
TYPE OF YARN: MULTI-FILAMENT YARN
SPREAD OF FILAMENT DIMENSION: MICRO and > 1 DENIER
FINISHING: RAISED AND SHEARED Example 2
CONSTRUCTION TO OBTAIN GRADIENT
Overfeed the back bar so that it protrudes through the surface of the technical back as a pile. Then raise the technical back of the fabric to pull the course filament yarn into the raised face.
YARNS COUNTS EMPLOYED: FRONT 50/48 MIDDLE 60/40 BACK 70/20
TYPE OF FILAMENTS EMPLOYED: PLAIN
TYPE OF YARN: MULTI-FILAMENT YARN
SPREAD OF FILAMENT DIMENSION: ALL > 1 DENIER
FINISHING: RAISED AND SUEDED
Example 3
CONSTRUCTION TO OBTAIN GRADIENT
Institute a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament overlaps appear on the technical back. To achieve this, the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap.
YARNS COUNTS EMPLOYED:
FRONT 50/70 MIDDLE 60/40 BACK 50/20
TYPES OF FILAMENTS EMPLOYED : AIR-TEXTURED
TYPE OF YARN: MULTI-FILAMENT YARN
SPREAD OF FILAMENT DIMENSION: MICRO and > 1 DENIER
FINISHING: PLAIN
Example 4
CONSTRUCTION TO OBTAIN GRADIENT
Institute a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament overlaps appear on the technical back. To achieve this, the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap.
YARNS COUNTS EMPLOYED:
3 GRADES OF STAPLE YARNS IN THE SAME MATERIAL SELECTED TO
ACHIEVE A GRADIENT IN FIBRE DIMENSION
TYPES OF FILAMENTS EMPLOYED: WOOL, SILK,
TYPE OF YARN: STAPLE YARNS
SPREAD OF FILAMENT DIMENSION: ALL > 1 DENIER
FINISHING: RAISED AND SHEARED
Example 5
CONSTRUCTION TO OBTAIN GRADIENT
Institute a bar movement such that the finest filament overlaps appear on the technical face, and the largest filament overlaps appear on the technical back. To achieve this, the yarns from the back, middle and front guide bars must lie in ascending order as they wrap around the needle to form the overlap.
YARNS COUNTS EMPLOYED : Front 50/70 Middle 60/40 Back 50/20
TYPES OF FILAMENTS EMPLOYED : PLAIN
TYPE OF YARN: MULTI-FILAMENT YARN
SPREAD OF FILAMENT DIMENSION: MICRO and > 1 DENIER
FINISHING: RAISED AND SUEDED

Claims

CLAIMS:
1 . A fabric having three or more interlocking layers of different yarns, each layer using a yarn having filaments or fibres of greater diameter than the preceding layer, so that the fabric has a gradient of filament or fibre packing density across the layers.
2. A warp knitted fabric knitted using three or more bars, each bar using a yarn having filaments or fibres of greater diameter than the yarn on the preceding bar, so that the fabric has a layered structure exhibiting a gradient of filament or fibre packing density.
3. A fabric according to claim 1 or 2, which has three interlocking layers.
4. A fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the yarns, or the fibres or filaments of each yarn, are coated with a water-repellent agent.
5. Articles of clothing manufactured from a fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4.
PCT/GB1994/002450 1993-11-09 1994-11-08 Textile fabric WO1995013413A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU81118/94A AU8111894A (en) 1993-11-09 1994-11-08 Textile fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB939323029A GB9323029D0 (en) 1993-11-09 1993-11-09 Textile fabric
GB9323029.0 1993-11-09

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1995013413A1 true WO1995013413A1 (en) 1995-05-18

Family

ID=10744838

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/GB1994/002450 WO1995013413A1 (en) 1993-11-09 1994-11-08 Textile fabric

Country Status (3)

Country Link
AU (1) AU8111894A (en)
GB (1) GB9323029D0 (en)
WO (1) WO1995013413A1 (en)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2746818A1 (en) * 1996-04-02 1997-10-03 Adidas Ag Double warp fabric for sportswear
CN103266407A (en) * 2013-05-22 2013-08-28 东华大学 Moisture guide quick-drying elastic liner fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN104630982A (en) * 2015-02-16 2015-05-20 无锡爱依特纺织有限公司 Production method of color-gradient warp knitting fabric
CN109402858A (en) * 2018-12-29 2019-03-01 常熟市正方宜织造有限公司 One-pass molding one-way wet-guide two-needle bar warp-knitted face fabric and preparation method thereof

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112726203B (en) * 2020-12-24 2023-07-25 深圳大学 Temperature-adaptive humidity-control temperature-regulating double-layer knitted fabric and preparation method thereof

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2851348A1 (en) * 1977-11-30 1979-06-07 Eiser Ab Textile fabrics used for mfg. armchair settees or bed loose covers - are warp knitted and consist of two layers interlocked by pile yarns of polypropylene strips
JPS62199837A (en) * 1986-02-20 1987-09-03 東洋紡績株式会社 Cloth
US4941514A (en) * 1987-02-10 1990-07-17 Tamfeld Oy Ab Multi-weft paper machine cloth with intermediate layer selected to control permeability
EP0429802A2 (en) * 1989-11-30 1991-06-05 Guilford Mills, Inc. Textile fabric with opposed absorbent and non-absorbent layers and method of fabricating same
US5169891A (en) * 1988-10-21 1992-12-08 Nicholas Brown Coating compositions comprising a blend of an ethylene vinyl acetate polymer with a fatty acid and emulsions
JPH05230770A (en) * 1992-02-14 1993-09-07 Kuraray Co Ltd Water vapor permeable waterproof fabric

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2851348A1 (en) * 1977-11-30 1979-06-07 Eiser Ab Textile fabrics used for mfg. armchair settees or bed loose covers - are warp knitted and consist of two layers interlocked by pile yarns of polypropylene strips
JPS62199837A (en) * 1986-02-20 1987-09-03 東洋紡績株式会社 Cloth
US4941514A (en) * 1987-02-10 1990-07-17 Tamfeld Oy Ab Multi-weft paper machine cloth with intermediate layer selected to control permeability
US5169891A (en) * 1988-10-21 1992-12-08 Nicholas Brown Coating compositions comprising a blend of an ethylene vinyl acetate polymer with a fatty acid and emulsions
EP0429802A2 (en) * 1989-11-30 1991-06-05 Guilford Mills, Inc. Textile fabric with opposed absorbent and non-absorbent layers and method of fabricating same
JPH05230770A (en) * 1992-02-14 1993-09-07 Kuraray Co Ltd Water vapor permeable waterproof fabric

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Week 8741, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 87-287557 *
DATABASE WPI Week 9340, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 93-317996 *

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2746818A1 (en) * 1996-04-02 1997-10-03 Adidas Ag Double warp fabric for sportswear
CN103266407A (en) * 2013-05-22 2013-08-28 东华大学 Moisture guide quick-drying elastic liner fabric and manufacturing method thereof
CN104630982A (en) * 2015-02-16 2015-05-20 无锡爱依特纺织有限公司 Production method of color-gradient warp knitting fabric
CN104630982B (en) * 2015-02-16 2016-10-05 无锡爱依特纺织有限公司 A kind of production method of gradient color WARP-KNITTING
CN109402858A (en) * 2018-12-29 2019-03-01 常熟市正方宜织造有限公司 One-pass molding one-way wet-guide two-needle bar warp-knitted face fabric and preparation method thereof

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AU8111894A (en) 1995-05-29
GB9323029D0 (en) 1994-01-05

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