WO1996011665A1 - Cosmetic make-up compositions - Google Patents
Cosmetic make-up compositions Download PDFInfo
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- WO1996011665A1 WO1996011665A1 PCT/US1995/011830 US9511830W WO9611665A1 WO 1996011665 A1 WO1996011665 A1 WO 1996011665A1 US 9511830 W US9511830 W US 9511830W WO 9611665 A1 WO9611665 A1 WO 9611665A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
Definitions
- the present invention relates to cosmetic make-up compositions and more particularly, to pigmented foundation make-up compositions and blushers having improved product stability, oil/shine control and moisturisation effectiveness.
- the compositions incorporate an amphiphilic material which is capable of forming liquid crystals.
- a foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts of the body to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores, imperfections, fine lines and the like.
- a foundation composition is also applied to moisturize the skin, to balance the oil level of the skin and to provide protection against the adverse effects of sunlight, wind and the harsh environment.
- Make-up compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil and wax compositions.
- US Patent No. 3,444,291 discloses a method of filling and camouflaging skin cavities by applying a composition which includes 65 to 75 parts by weight of a microcrystalline wax and about 25 to 35 parts of a mineral oil.
- the composition includes a colourant, preferably a coal tar dye, for example, D &C Red No. 17, which matches the colour of the user's skin.
- a spreadable, flowable and greaseless cosmetic cover-up composition is taught in US Patent No 4,486,405. That composition is characterized by the presence of a first and a second alkoxylated surfactant present in substantially the same concentration. 96/11665
- US Patent No. 4,804,532 recites a facial cosmetic powder which utilizes crystalline silica in much lower concentration than that employed in the then prior art compositions.
- This powder used as a blush or a facial coating, is said to be effective in hiding skin wrinkles, lines and pores.
- the composition is a mixture of a colour phase and a diluent phase.
- the colour phase is formed by blending crystalline silica with colourants.
- the resultant colour phase is mixed with the diluent phase, essentially formed from nacreous materials such as talc and mica, to form the composition.
- US Patent No. 4,659,562 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition which includes, as a binding agent therefore, an intimate mixture of from 5 to 95 weight percent of a mixture of finely divided silica and about 5 to 95 weight percent of finely divided polyethylene fibres.
- the composition is recited to maintain its uniformity over the areas of the skin to which it is applied. That is, it is said to be "creaseproof.
- the composition of the '562 patent includes colourant in admixture with nacreous agents.
- US Patent No. 5,143,722 discloses a cosmetic make-up composition
- a cosmetic make-up composition comprising water-in-oil emulsions comprising pigment coated with polysiloxane, a silicone phase, a water phase and a polydiorganosiloxane- polyoxyalkylene copolymeric surfactant.
- Foundations in the form of oil-in-water emulsions are well known in the art. These have, however, not been successful from the viewpoint of moisturisation and shine/oil control.
- humectants such as water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants and glycerine have been incorporated into skin and hair gel compositions for use as moisturisation agents. These compositions have provided improvements in moisturisation, absorption, skin feel, residue and skin care characteristics compared with conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions. There is still a need, however, for enhanced moisturisation both in the short and longer term and also increased emulsion stability and oil/shine control.
- Liquid crystals are a special phase of matter.
- the liquid crystal phase exists between the boundaries of the solid phase and the isotropic liquid phase (i.e. an intermediate between the three dimensionally ordered crystalline state and the disordered dissolved state).
- the isotropic liquid phase i.e. an intermediate between the three dimensionally ordered crystalline state and the disordered dissolved state.
- some of the molecular order characteristics of the solid phase are retained in the liquid state because of molecular association structure and long range intermolecular order.
- the ability of some compounds to form a liquid crystalline mesophase had been observed nearly a century ago. Since that time many compounds exhibiting liquid crystalline properties have been synthesized and have been used to encapsulate and act as a delivery vehicle for drugs, flavours, nutrients and other compounds.
- a make-up composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
- oil-in-water emulsions of the present invention provide improved moisturisation together with excellent product stability and reduced shine.
- the make-up composition according to the present invention comprises volatile silicone oil and/or hydrocarbon oil, pigment, organic amphiphilic material capable of forming lyotropic liquid crystals in product or on the skin and optionally, non-volatile oil.
- the composition is in the form of an oil-in- water emulsion.
- a first essential component of the oil-in-water emulsion is a volatile silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil.
- the silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30%, preferably at least about 20%, . especially at least about 25% by weight.
- Suitable volatile silicone oils include cyclic and linear volatile polyorganosiloxanes.
- volatile refers to those materials which have a vapour pressure greater than that of cetyl alcohol at 25°C, and preferably have a vapour pressure of at least lrrinrHg at 100°C or less, preferably at 60°C or less.
- Non-volatile refers to those materials which have a vapour pressure at least equal to cetyl alcohol at 25°C (see the description of various volatile silicones in Todd, et al.. "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Toiletries 27-32 (1976)).
- Preferred cyclic silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably containing from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms.
- Preferred linear silicone oils include the polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms.
- the linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25°C, while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.
- silicone oils useful in the present invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by the Union Carbide Corporation).
- SF.202 manufactured by General Electric
- SWS-03314 manufactured by Stauffer Chemical
- Suitable volatile hydrocarbon oils for use herein include isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, isodecane, decane, hexadecane, dodecane, tetradecane and octadecane.
- Particularly suitable for use herein are branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons sold under the trade name Permethyl (RTM) and commercially available from Presperse Inc., P.O. Box 735, South Plainfield, N.J. 07080, U.S.A.
- a second component which is preferably incorporated in the compositions of the invention is a non-volatile oil.
- Suitable non-volatile oils can be selected from hydrocarbon waxes and oils, microcrystalline waxes, silicone waxes, esters of fatty acids with fatty alcohols and polyalkylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
- Suitable hydrocarbons for use herein include paraffin oil, soft paraffin wax and petrolatum.
- Preferred non ⁇ volatile oils for use herein are esters of fatty acids with fatty alcohols and polyalkylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols.
- the alcohol portion of the esters suitable for use herein include methanol, isobutanol, 2-ethylhexanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, xylitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, sucrose, sorbitol or sorbitan.
- the fatty acid portion of the esters suitable for use herein include lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid stearic acid, oleic acid and behenic acid. Especially prefered from the viewpoint of moisturisation are optionally hydroxy substituted C8-C50 unsaturated fatty acids or esters thereof, e.g.
- the non-volatile oil is present in the compositions at a level of from about 0% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% to about 6%, by weight.
- the non-volatile oil comprises a wax or mixture of waxes and liquid oils having a melting completion temperature of at least about 30°C.
- a further essential component of the compositions herein is an organic amphiphilic material which is capable of forming smectic lyotropic crystals in product or when the product is applied on the skin at ambient or elevated temperatures.
- the amphiphilic material is capable of forming smectic lyotropic liquid crystals at a temperature in the range from about 20°C to about 40°C.
- the amphiphilic material is present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, by weight.
- liquid-crystal forming amphiphilic materials suitable for use herein contain both hydrophilic and lipophilic groupings and exhibit a marked tendency to adsorb at a surface or interface, i.e. they are surface-active.
- Surface-active materials are divided into nonionic (no charge), anionic (negative charge), cationic (positive charge) and amphoteric (both charges) based on whether or not they ionize in aqueous media.
- liquid crystals are also referred to as anisotropic fluids, a fourth state of matter, surfactant association structure or mesophases. Those terms are often used interchangeably.
- liquid crystals as used herein means “smectic lyotropic liquid crystals” unless otherwise specified.
- lyotropic herein means a liquid crystalline system containing a solvent. In preferred embodiments herein the polar solvent is water or a solution of humectant in water. Smectic lyotropic liquid crystals are to be distinguished from thermotropic, heat, magnetically induced or cholesteric liquid crystals.
- the liquid crystals used herein are preferably lamellar, hexagonal, rod or vesicle structures or mixtures thereof.
- liquid crystalline phase utilized in the compositions of the invention can be identified in various ways.
- a liquid crystal phase flows under shear and is characterised by a viscosity that is significantly different from the viscosity of its isotropic solution phase.
- Rigid gels do not flow under shear like liquid crystals.
- liquid crystals show identifiable birefringence, as, for example, planar lamellar birefringence, whereas when isotropic solutions and rigid gels are viewed under polarized light, both show dark fields.
- Suitable means for identifying liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction, NMR spectroscopy and transmission electron microscopy.
- the organic amphiphilic material preferred for use herein can be described as a liquid, semi-solid or waxy water-dispersible material having the formula X-Y where X represents a hydrophilic, especially nonionic moiety and Y represents a lipophilic moiety.
- Organic amphiphilic materials suitable for use herein include those having a weight average HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) in the range from about 2 to about 15, preferably from about 8 to about 15.
- HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
- Preferred organic amphiphilic materials employed herein have a long saturated or unsaturated branched or linear lipophilic chain having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms such as oleic, lanolic, tetradecylic, hexadecylic, isostearylic, lauric or alkyl phenyl chains.
- the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic material forming the liquid crystal phase is a nonionic group, a polyoxyethylene, a polyglycerol, a polyol ester, oxyalkylated or not, and, for example, a polyoxyalkylated sorbitol or sugar ester, can be employed.
- hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic material forming the liquid crystal phase is an ionic group, advantageously there can be used, as the hydrophilic group, a phosphatidylcholine residue as found in lecithin.
- Nonionic amphiphilic components preferred for use herein are selected from:
- R is selected from aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chains of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon radicals of lanolin alcohols and the 2-hydroxy alkyl residue of long chain, alpha-diols, and Gly represents a glycerol residue;
- polyethoxylated fatty alcohols for example those of the formula Rl (C2 R4 ⁇ ) x OH wherein R is C12-C30 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl and x averages from about 0 to about 20, preferably from about 0.1 to about 6, more preferably from about 1 to about 4;
- polyol esters and polyalkoxylated polyol esters and mixtures thereof, the polyols preferably being selected from sugars, C2-C6 alkylene glycols, glycerol, polyglycerols, sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and wherein the polyalkoxylated polyol esters contain from about 2 to about 20 preferably from about 2 to about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (especially ethylene oxide) per mole of polyol ester;
- organic amphiphilic materials suitable for use herein include Cg-C30 alkyl and acyl-containing amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants as set out below.
- N-alkyl amino acids e.g., sodium N-alkylaminoacetate
- N-lauroylglutamic acid cholesterol ester e.g., Eldew CL-301 Ajinomoto
- Anionic Acylglutamates e.g., disodium N-lauroylglutamate
- Sarcosinates e.g., sodium lauryl sarcosinate. Grace, Seppic;
- Taurates e.g., sodium lauryl taurate. sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
- Carboxylic acids and salts e.g., potassium oleate; potassium laurate; potassium- 10-undecenoate; potassium 1 l-(p-styryl) - undecanoate);
- Ethoxylated carboxylic salts e.g., sodium carboxy methyl alkyl ethoxylate
- Phosphoric acid esters and salts e.g., lecithin; DEA-oleth-10 phosphate
- Acyl isethionates e.g., sodium 2-lauroyloxyethane sulfonate
- Alkane sulfonates e.g., branched sodium x-alkane sulfonate (x/1);
- Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (MacKanate El, Mclntyre Group
- Sulfuric acid esters e.g., sodium 2-ethylhept-6-enyl sulfate; sodium 11- heneicosyl sulfate; sodium 9-heptadecyl sulfate).
- Alkyl sulfates e.g., ME A alkyl sulfate such as MEA-lauryl sulfate
- Alkyl Imidazolines e.g., alkyl hydroxy ethyl imidazoline, stearyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline (supplier Akzo, Finetex and Hoechst));
- Ethoxylated Amines e.g., PEG-n alkylamine, PEG-n alkylamino propylamine, Poloxamine, PEG-cocopolyamine, PEG- 15 tallow amine
- Alkylamines e.g., dimethyl alkylamine; dihydroxyethyl alkylamine dioleate
- Alkylbenzyl dimethylammonium salts e.g., stearalkonium chloride
- Alkyl betaines e.g., dodecyl dimethyl ammonio acetate, oleyl betaine
- Heterocylic ammonium salts e.g., alkylethyl morpholinium ethosulfate
- Tetraalkylammonium salts e.g., dimethyl distearyl quaternary ammonium chloride (Witco)
- Bis-isostearamidopropyl hydroxypropyl di ammonium chloride Schercoquat
- Nonionic Surfactants Ethoxylated glycerides
- Monoglycerides e.g., monoolein; monolinolein; monolaurin; 1-dodecanoyl- glycerol monolaurin; 1, 13-docosenoyl-glycerol monoerucin diglyceride fatty acid (e.g., diglycerol monoisostearate Cosmol 41, fractionated. Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd.);
- Polyglyceryl esters e.g., triglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TS-T122), diglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TST-T101); Polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers (e.g., sucrose monooleate (Ryoto, Mitsubishi-Kasei Food Corporation), cetostearyl glucoside (Montanol, Seppic), ⁇ octyl glucofiiranoside esters, alkyl glucoside such C o-C ⁇ 6 (Henkel));
- Diesters of phosphoric acid e.g., sodium dioleyl phosphate
- Alkylamido propyl betaine e.g., cocoamido propyl betaine
- Amide e.g., N-(dodecanoylaminoethyl)-2-pyrrolidone
- Amide oxide e.g., 1, 1 Dihydroperfluorooctyldimethylamine oxide
- N-trimethylammoniododecanamidate Ammonio carboxylates e.g., dodecyldimethylammonioacetate,
- Polyoxyethylene (C 0 ) e.g., pentaoxyethylene glycol p-n-octylphenyl ether hexaoxyethylene glycol p-n-octylphenyl ether nonaoxyethylene glycol p-n-octylphenyl ether
- Polyoxyethylene (CJO) e.g., pentaoxyethylene glycol p-n-decylphenyl ether, decyl glyceryl ether, 4-oxatetradecan-l, 2-diol, nonaoxyethylene glycol p-n-decylphenyl ether
- Polyoxyethylene ( Ci i) e.g.,
- Highly preferred organic amphiphilic materials for use herein are selected from sugar esters and polyalkoxylated sugar esters and phophatides such as lecithin.
- the sugar esters for use in this invention can be classified as hydrocarbyl and alkyl polyoxyalkylene esters of cyclic polyhydroxy saccharides wherein one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the saccharide moiety is substituted with an acyl or polyoxyalkylene group.
- Hydrocarbyl sugar esters can be prepared in well-known fashion by heating an acid or acid halide with sugar, i.e., by a simple esterification reaction.
- the sugars employed in the preparation of the sugar esters include monosaccharides, di-saccharides and oligo-saccharides well known in the art, for example, the dextrorotatory and levorotatory forms of glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose and xylose.
- Typical di-saccharides include maltose, cellibiose, lactose, and trehalose.
- Typical tri-saccharides include raffinose and gentianose.
- the monosaccharides are preferred for use herein, especially sucrose.
- Sucrose can be esterified at one or more of its eight hydroxyl groups to provide the sucrose esters useful herein.
- sucrose When sucrose is combined with an esterification agent in a 1 : 1 mole ratio, sucrose monoesters are formed; when the ratio of esterification agent to sucrose is 2:1, or greater, the di-, tri-, etc., esters are formed, up to a maximum of the octa-ester.
- Preferred sugar esters herein are those prepared by the esterification of sugars at a mole ratio of esterification agent:sugar of 1:1 and 3:1 i.e., the mono-acyl and di- or tri- acyl sugar esters.
- the respective esters of di-saccharide sugars, especially sucrose, wherein the acyl groups contain from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms are especially preferred.
- Preferred sugar esters herein are sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose monopalmitate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose monooleate, sucrose monolinoleate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose distearate, sucrose dilaurate and sucrose dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
- Sucrose oleates, laurates and palmitates have been found to be particularly efficacious in the compositions herein, especially sucrose monooleate and sucrose dilaurate.
- the mono- and di-acyl esters preferably comprise at least about 40%, more preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of the total sugar ester mixture.
- Other sugar esters suitable for use in the compositions of this invention are the alkyl polyoxyalkylene sugar esters wherein one hydroxyl group is substituted with a Cg-C ⁇ g alkyl group and wherein one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the sugar molecule are replaced by an ester or ether substituent containing the moiety [(CH2) ⁇ -0] y wherein x is an integer from 2 to about 4, preferably 2, and wherein y is an integer from about 1 to about 50, preferably 8 to 30 polyoxyalkylene substituents.
- sugar esters wherein the polyoxyalkylene substituent is a polyoxyethylene substituent containing from about 8 to about 30 polyoxyethylene groups.
- Such materials wherein sorbitan is the sugar moiety are commercially available under the tradename "Tweens".
- Such mixed esters can be prepared by first acylating a sugar at a 1 : 1 mole ratio with a hydrocarbyl acid halide followed by reaction with the corresponding polyoxyalkylene acid halide or alkylene oxide to provide the desired material.
- the simple polyoxyalkylene ester of di-saccharides, especially sucrose, wherein the polyoxyalkylene groups contain up to about 20 alkylene oxide moieties are another useful class of sugar esters herein.
- a preferred sugar ester of this class is sorbitol trioleate ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
- Mixtures of sugar esters with other polyol esters, eg. glycerol esters, are also suitable for use herein, for example, Palm Oil Sucroglyceride (Rhone-Poulenc).
- lecithin refers to a material which is a phosphatide.
- Naturally occurring or synthetic phosphatides can be used.
- Phosphatidylcholine or lecithin is a glycerine esterified with a choline ester of phosphoric acid and two fatty acids, usually a long chain saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 16-20 carbons and up to 4 double bonds.
- Other phosphatides capable of forming lamellar or hexagonal liquid crystals can be used in place of the lecithin or in combination with it.
- phosphatides are glycerol esters with two fatty acids as in the lecithin, but the choline is replaced by ethanolamine (a cephalin), or serine ( - aminopropanoic acid; phosphatidyl serine) or an inositol (phosphatidyl inositol). While the invention herein is exemplified with lecithin, it is understood that these other phosphatides can be used herein.
- lecithins can be used.
- American Lecithin Company supplies a Nattermann Phospholipid, Phospholipan 80 and Phosal 75.
- Other lecithins 96/11665 can be used.
- Lecithins are supplied dissolved in ethanol, fatty acids, triglycerides and other solvents. They are usually mixtures of lecithins and range from 15% to 50% of the solution as supplied.
- Natural lecithins are derived from oilseeds such as sunflower seeds, soybeans, safflower seeds and cottonseed. The lecithins are separated from the oil during the refining process.
- the organic amphiphilic compound has been found to be especially valuable herein for providing shine/oil control of oil-in-water make-up compositions. While not being limited by theory, it is the ability of the liquid crystals in the compositions to bind sebum from the skin which helps to provide improved shine control.
- the ratio of volatile silicone oil to organic amphiphilic material is at least about 1.5:1.
- Suitable pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or organic. Also included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte finishing agents, and also light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are iron oxides, acylglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending upon the type of make-up composition, whether foundation or blusher, a mixture of pigments will normally be used.
- the foundation composition can also include at least one matte fmishing agent.
- the function of the matte finishing agent is to hide skin defects and reduce shine.
- Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Ed., as silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, attapulgite and the like may be utilized.
- a matte finishing agent is low lustre pigment such as titanated mica (mica coated with titanium dioxide) coated with barium sulfate.
- inorganic components useful as a matte finishing agent low lustre pigment, talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
- Materials suitable for use herein as light- scattering agents can be generally described as spherical shaped inorganic materials having a particle size of up to about 100 microns, preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical silica particles.
- the total concentration of the pigment may be from about 5 to about 25% by weight and is preferably from about 5 to about 20% by weight of the total composition, the exact concentration being dependent to some extent upon the specific mixture of pigments selected for use in a foundation make-up or blusher to achieve the desired shades.
- the preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight of titanium dioxide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight of titanium dioxide.
- Suitable pigments for use herein are treated pigments.
- the pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.
- Preferred pigments for use herein are water-dispersible pigments such as those sold under the tradename Softex.
- a preferred component of the compositions herein is a humectant.
- the humectant herein is present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 20% preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of composition.
- Suitable humectants are selected from glycerine and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant having a viscosity at 25°C of 300,000 to 1,100,000 cps; a specific gravity at 25°C of 1 to 1.2g/ml, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58%; and, a free water content from 5 to 20%.
- the humectant is incorporated at least partly into the oil phase of the oil-in-water emulsion so as to form a multiphase humectant-in-oil-in-water dispersion.
- the oil phase preferably comprises from about 0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight of humectant on a composition basis.
- the humectant is introduced into the oil phase in the form of a mixture with or incorporated within a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material. Humectant can also be introduced via the liquid crystal internal solvent phase.
- Polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having the desired properties are marketed by Guardian Chemical Corporation under the trademark "Lubrajel”.
- the "Lubrajels” identified as “Lubrajel DV”, “Lubrajel MS”, and “Lubrajel CG” are preferred in the present invention.
- the gelling agents sold under these trademarks contain about 1% propylene glycol.
- humectants include sorbitol, panthenols, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, alkoxylated glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, and glucose ethers, and mixtures thereof.
- Urea is also suitably added as a humectant in the internal aqueous phase.
- the panthenol moisturiser can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4- dihydroxy-N- [3 -hy droxypropyl)]-3 ,3 -dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and Vitamin B complex.
- glycerine is 1,2,3- propanetriol and is a product of commerce.
- the balance of the composition of the present invention is water.
- the composition preferably comprises from about 10% to about 60%, preferably from about 20% to about 50% by weight of water.
- the ratio of organic amphiphilic material to water is preferably in the range from about 2:1 to about 1:6, more preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:5.
- the ratio of organic amphiphilic material to total oil is in the range from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 1:1 to about 1:4.
- the make-up compositions of the present invention can also comprise a paniculate cross-linked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling oil while helping to provide effective moisturization benefits.
- the cross-linked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice with at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout and entrapped within the copolymer lattice.
- the hydrophobic polymer can take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (N2-BET) in the range from about 50 to 500, preferably 100 to 300m2/g and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.
- the cross-linked hydrophobic polymer when used herein is in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight and is preferably incorporated in the internal silicone-containing oil phase.
- the active ingredient can be one or more or a mixture of skin compatible oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, moisturizing agents and sunscreens.
- the polymer material is in the form of a powder, the powder being a combined system of particles.
- the system of powder particles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in average diameter, agglomerates of fused unit particles of sized in the range of about 20 to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clusters of fused agglomerates of sizes in the range of about 200 to 1,200 microns in average diameter.
- the powder material of the present invention which can be employed as the carrier for the active ingredient can be broadly described as a cross-linked "post absorbed" hydrophobic polymer lattice.
- the powder preferably has entrapped and dispersed therein, an active which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas.
- the lattice is in paniculate form and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the active material.
- the lattice may contain a predetermined quantity of the active material.
- the polymer has the structural formula: 18
- the hydrophobic polymer is a highly crosslinked polymer, more particularly a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.
- the material is manufactured by the Dow Corning Corporation, Midland. Michigan, USA, and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM) . It is an ultralight free- flowing white powder and the particles are capable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while at the same time maintaining a free-flowing powder character.
- the powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron that are fused into agglomerates of 20 to 100 microns and the agglomerates are loosely clustered into macro-particles or aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 micron size.
- the polymer powder is capable of containing as much as four times its weight of fluids, emulsions, dispersions or melted solids.
- Adsorption of actives onto the polymer powder can be accomplished using a stainless steel mixing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is added to the powder and the spoon is used to gently fold the active into the polymer powder.
- Low viscosity fluids may be adsorbed by addition of the fluids to a sealable vessel containing the polymer and then tumbling the materials until a consistency is achieved. More elaborate blending equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders can also be employed.
- the preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerine.
- the weight ratio of humectant : carrier is from about 1 :4 to about 3:1.
- Microsponges 5647 is also suitable as a highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.
- compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent at a level preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%.
- the gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20°C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s.
- Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water- soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylalcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.
- cellulose ethers e.g. hydroxy ethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose
- polyvinylpyrrolidone polyvinylalcohol
- polyquaternium-10 guar gum
- guar gum hydroxypropyl guar gum
- xanthan gum xanthan gum
- hydrophilic gelling agents are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade mark of Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981.
- Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically- modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Aery lates/ 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for use herein. Other suitable gelling agents suitable for use herein are oleogels such as trihydroxystearin and aluminium magnesium hydroxy stearate. The gelling agents herein are particularly valuable for providing excellent stability characteristics over both normal and elevated temperatures.
- Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydrox ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triemanolamin
- the make-up compositions herein can additionally comprise an emollient.
- Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present invention include natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable, and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.
- Suitable emollients for use herein include, for example, C1-C24 esters of C -C30 saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A- 3988255, Seiden, issued October 26 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolins, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame
- Preferred emollients are selected from cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl acetate, trioctyl citrate, PEG isoceteth-3 acetate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, caprylic/ capric triglyceride, mineral oil, PPG-20 methylglucose ether, and lanolin alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- These emollients may be used independently or in mixtures and may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount from about 1% to about 30% by weight, and preferably are present in an amount from about 5% to about 15% by weight of the total composition.
- compositions may also contain cholesterol.
- cholesterol is incorporated at a level of from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight.
- composition may also contain additional materials such as, for example, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and oil-in-water emulsifiers as appropriate.
- additional materials such as, for example, fragrances, fillers such as nylon, sun-screens, preservatives, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and oil-in-water emulsifiers as appropriate.
- UV absorbing agents can be present in a concentration in the range of between about 1% and about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of composition.
- the UV absorbing agents constitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorbing agents can be present in the composition in a concentration range of between about 4% and about 6% by weight.
- benzophenone-3, octyl dimethyl PABA (Padimate O) and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
- a chelating agent can also be incorporated in the make-up composition.
- a chelating agent is preferably present in the composition in a concentration in the range of between about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the chelating agent is present in a concentration in the range of between about 0.03% and about 0.07% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
- the chelating agents that may be included in the composition is trisodium EDTA.
- the preservative concentration in the foundation composition is in the range of between about 0.2% and about 0.8% by weight, preferably between about 0.4% and about 0.6% by weight.
- Suitable preservatives for use herein include diazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben and ethyl paraben, and mixtures thereof.
- the make-up compositions of the present invention can be in the form of foundations, blushers, concealers, compact powders, and the like, preferably as foundations and blushers.
- phase A and the components of phase B are mixed together with high speed shear mixing until homogeneous.
- the components of phase C and then phase D are added to the mixture of phases A and B with mixing until dispersed.
- the components of phase E are added with mixing until homogeneous.
- phase F The resulting batch is heated to 70°C while mixing is continued.
- the components of phase F are heated to about 70°C and then are added to the aqueous mixture (A+B+C+D+E).
- the batch is mixed until homogeneous.
- the mixture is then cooled to room temperature with slow stirring.
- the resulting make-up composition is ready for packaging.
- compositions of the examples exhibit improved product stability, improved oil/shine control and moisturisation effectiveness.
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
MX9702689A MX9702689A (en) | 1994-10-12 | 1995-09-18 | Cosmetic make-up compositions. |
EP95933843A EP0778765A4 (en) | 1994-10-12 | 1995-09-18 | Cosmetic make-up compositions |
US08/817,155 US6013269A (en) | 1994-10-12 | 1995-09-18 | Cosmetic make-up compositions |
JP8513220A JPH10507196A (en) | 1994-10-12 | 1995-09-18 | Makeup composition for makeup |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
GB9420535A GB9420535D0 (en) | 1994-10-12 | 1994-10-12 | Cosmetic make-up compositions |
GB9420535.8 | 1994-10-12 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO1996011665A1 true WO1996011665A1 (en) | 1996-04-25 |
Family
ID=10762714
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/US1995/011830 WO1996011665A1 (en) | 1994-10-12 | 1995-09-18 | Cosmetic make-up compositions |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0778765A4 (en) |
JP (1) | JPH10507196A (en) |
CA (1) | CA2202528A1 (en) |
GB (1) | GB9420535D0 (en) |
MX (1) | MX9702689A (en) |
WO (1) | WO1996011665A1 (en) |
Cited By (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1468668A2 (en) * | 2000-02-15 | 2004-10-20 | Dija Zeist B.V. | An O/W emulsion and a controlled release preparation for the skin |
WO2006031271A2 (en) * | 2004-06-24 | 2006-03-23 | Dpt Laboratories, Ltd. | Pharmaceutically elegant, topical anhydrous aerosol foam |
EP1878420A1 (en) * | 2005-04-28 | 2008-01-16 | Japan Science and Technology Agency | Skin regeneration promoter |
WO2009063016A1 (en) * | 2007-11-16 | 2009-05-22 | Unilever Plc | Topical composition |
KR101993575B1 (en) * | 2019-01-17 | 2019-06-26 | 연세대학교 산학협력단 | Composition comprising tetradecane as active ingredients for improving skin wrinkle, skin moisturizing or skin elasticity |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2017056506A1 (en) * | 2015-09-30 | 2017-04-06 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic |
JP6321105B2 (en) * | 2015-09-30 | 2018-05-09 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic |
JP6661451B2 (en) * | 2016-04-12 | 2020-03-11 | 大東化成工業株式会社 | Composite powder, method for producing the same, and cosmetic containing the composite powder |
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US4767625A (en) * | 1985-09-02 | 1988-08-30 | Kao Corporation | Lamella type single phase liquid crystal composition and oil-base cosmetic compositions using the same |
US4999348A (en) * | 1987-12-11 | 1991-03-12 | Estee Lauder Inc. | Liquid crystal containing cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions and methods for utilizing such compositions |
US5085856A (en) * | 1990-07-25 | 1992-02-04 | Elizabeth Arden Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion lipstick comprising a phospholipid and glycerol fatty acid esters emulsifying system |
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JPS54110335A (en) * | 1978-02-17 | 1979-08-29 | Miyasoi Takeji | Makeeup cosmetics |
JPS5721310A (en) * | 1980-07-10 | 1982-02-04 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Eye makeup cosmetic |
JP2581920B2 (en) * | 1987-05-18 | 1997-02-19 | 有限会社野々川商事 | Cosmetics |
JPS63287712A (en) * | 1987-05-20 | 1988-11-24 | Mitsubishi Pencil Co Ltd | Liquid cosmetic |
JP2654030B2 (en) * | 1987-10-19 | 1997-09-17 | マックス・ファクター株式会社 | Paste makeup cosmetics |
JPH03284610A (en) * | 1990-03-30 | 1991-12-16 | Kao Corp | Emulsion cosmetic |
JP3649341B2 (en) * | 1990-06-15 | 2005-05-18 | 株式会社資生堂 | COMPOSITE AND COMPOSITE COMPOSITION, EMULSION COMPOSITION, AND EMULSION COMPOSITION |
JPH0794366B2 (en) * | 1990-09-14 | 1995-10-11 | 花王株式会社 | Method for producing O / W gel cosmetic |
LU87814A1 (en) * | 1990-09-27 | 1992-05-25 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DISPERSION OF LIPID VESICLES AS WELL AS MELANIC PIGMENTS, AND ITS USE |
FR2673372B1 (en) * | 1991-02-28 | 1993-10-01 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION CAPABLE OF REDUCING SKIN DEFECTS. |
GB9301297D0 (en) * | 1993-01-23 | 1993-03-17 | Procter & Gamble | Cosmetic make-up compositions |
US5356627A (en) * | 1993-02-01 | 1994-10-18 | Estee Lauder, Inc. | Waterproof cosmetic compositions |
EP0793475A1 (en) * | 1993-02-09 | 1997-09-10 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Cosmetic compositions |
WO1996003107A1 (en) * | 1994-07-21 | 1996-02-08 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Oil-in-water cosmetic composition |
-
1994
- 1994-10-12 GB GB9420535A patent/GB9420535D0/en active Pending
-
1995
- 1995-09-18 WO PCT/US1995/011830 patent/WO1996011665A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1995-09-18 JP JP8513220A patent/JPH10507196A/en not_active Ceased
- 1995-09-18 EP EP95933843A patent/EP0778765A4/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1995-09-18 MX MX9702689A patent/MX9702689A/en unknown
- 1995-09-18 CA CA 2202528 patent/CA2202528A1/en not_active Abandoned
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US4767625A (en) * | 1985-09-02 | 1988-08-30 | Kao Corporation | Lamella type single phase liquid crystal composition and oil-base cosmetic compositions using the same |
US4999348A (en) * | 1987-12-11 | 1991-03-12 | Estee Lauder Inc. | Liquid crystal containing cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions and methods for utilizing such compositions |
US5085856A (en) * | 1990-07-25 | 1992-02-04 | Elizabeth Arden Co., Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion lipstick comprising a phospholipid and glycerol fatty acid esters emulsifying system |
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Title |
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See also references of EP0778765A4 * |
Cited By (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1468668A2 (en) * | 2000-02-15 | 2004-10-20 | Dija Zeist B.V. | An O/W emulsion and a controlled release preparation for the skin |
EP1468668A3 (en) * | 2000-02-15 | 2005-02-02 | Dija Zeist B.V. | An O/W emulsion and a controlled release preparation for the skin |
WO2006031271A2 (en) * | 2004-06-24 | 2006-03-23 | Dpt Laboratories, Ltd. | Pharmaceutically elegant, topical anhydrous aerosol foam |
WO2006031271A3 (en) * | 2004-06-24 | 2006-06-01 | Dpt Lab Ltd | Pharmaceutically elegant, topical anhydrous aerosol foam |
US8211449B2 (en) | 2004-06-24 | 2012-07-03 | Dpt Laboratories, Ltd. | Pharmaceutically elegant, topical anhydrous aerosol foam |
EP1878420A1 (en) * | 2005-04-28 | 2008-01-16 | Japan Science and Technology Agency | Skin regeneration promoter |
EP1878420A4 (en) * | 2005-04-28 | 2009-08-12 | Japan Science & Tech Agency | Skin regeneration promoter |
WO2009063016A1 (en) * | 2007-11-16 | 2009-05-22 | Unilever Plc | Topical composition |
KR101993575B1 (en) * | 2019-01-17 | 2019-06-26 | 연세대학교 산학협력단 | Composition comprising tetradecane as active ingredients for improving skin wrinkle, skin moisturizing or skin elasticity |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
MX9702689A (en) | 1997-06-28 |
JPH10507196A (en) | 1998-07-14 |
CA2202528A1 (en) | 1996-04-25 |
GB9420535D0 (en) | 1994-11-30 |
EP0778765A1 (en) | 1997-06-18 |
EP0778765A4 (en) | 2000-04-19 |
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