WO1998048774A1

WO1998048774A1 - Skin cream with moisturising and absorbing components

Info

Publication number: WO1998048774A1
Application number: PCT/EP1998/002270
Authority: WO
Inventors: Selma Renata Van Blarcum De Graaf; Monica Real Bispo Madeiros
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.
Priority date: 1997-04-30
Filing date: 1998-04-15
Publication date: 1998-11-05
Also published as: AU7644798A; AR015615A1; BR9701968A

Abstract

The present invention refers to a synergetic composition containing moisturising and absorbing ingredients, containing a) an oil-in-water emulsion prepared from self-emulsifying waxes and water; or starting from the reaction products between acids and fatty alcohols with neutralising agents, or from silicone/water emulsions; b) a moisturising ingredients system containing: b.1) 0.0001 to 20 %, by weight, of polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol or any other polyhydric alcohol; b.2) 0.1 to 10 %, by weight, of one or more cyclomethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol; and b.3) 0.001 to 5 %, by weight, of one or more polyol esters; and c) 0.1 to 10 %, by weight, of one or more precipitated and/or agglomerated silica, and/or talcum.

Description

SKIN CREAM WITH MOISTURIZING AND ABSORBING

COMPONENTS

The present invention refers to synergystic combinations of moisturising and absorbing ingredients, which may be widely used in cosmetic formulations in the form of of oil-in-water type emulsions, and hydration and oiliness control facial treatments.

Ever since the origin of mankind's culture, oils and creams have been used in personal cleansing regimes which have attained the status of sacred rituals, for the body's treatment and the skin care.

Up to the 1930's, the variety of materials available for this purpose was reasonably restricted. After the development of chemistry in the field of surfactants, both before and after World War II, the growth of the cosmetic industry was made possible and practicable. In particular, the use of surfactants made it possible and easy to manufacture creams with both aqueous and oily ingredients in their composition.

As in every other technical field, the formulations for skin treatment field became increasingly more specialised.

It became possible to provide tailored compositions which were adpated to each individual's particular needs. For a given skin type it became possible to provide a tailored specific product - creams and lotions are formulated in such a way that one is able, on applying them, to adjust every skin condition. Creams and lotions are emulsions; that is, two-phase compositions containing non-miscible dispersions. With one or more moisturising agents, homogeneous systems can be formed. Usually, such skin treatment compositions are made starting from a number of components whose basic principles or functions in the composition are as follows: consistency providing agents; emulsifiers; active principles or special additives; water; preservatives or conserving agents; fragrances; and pigments or colorants; to name a few.

GB 2275419 describes a make up composition, which may preferably be a pigmented foundation make up composition or blusher, which may be an oil in water composition. The composition contains a silicone gum and conveniently comprises a pre-emulsified silicone/polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricant. However, it is a requirement of such compositions that they comprise a first oil phase which is essentially silicone free.

With regard to the present invention, it has been observed that moisturising ingredients, particularly a methacrylate copolymer, for example Microsponge (trade mark) available from Advanced Polymer Systems, Inc. and Dow Corning, when combined with absorbing ingredients, especially those derived from silicon dioxide, and/or talcum, are able to produce in a cosmetic composition an unexpected beneficial effect, even a synergystic effect, with the beneficial effects of hydration in the dry areas of the facial skin, and also of oil absorption in the skin areas having greater degree of oiliness, specially in the T Zone (i.e. the forehead, nose and chin areas).

As a result, the present combination of moisturising and absorbing ingredients in emulsifying combinations or compositions have the effect of excessive oiliness control and hydration due to the synergism obtained from the combination of the above mentioned active ingredients in an emulsion made from self-emulsifying waxes or from reactions between acids, fatty alcohols, and neutralising agents.

In addition, one of the advantages of applying this new system of ingredients in emulsions is that for consumers having oily or mixed type skin features, they will not need to use two different products for different facial areas.

The present invention can be applied to different skin areas, on which different or distinct effects and benefits will be produced according to the condition of the underlying skin, as follows:

- Moisturising of the drier areas via the release of the moisturising ingredients;

- Formation of a film or facial mask for the treatment of skin surface, that is able to prevent evaporation of water therefrom;

- Absorption of the "tallow" naturally produced by sebaceous glands, consequently eliminating skin gloss, and immediately reducing the "oily skin sensation", as described by consumers whose self-evaluation classified them into the oily or combination skin categories.

Thus, users will be able to benefit not only from the performance of this product as a good hydrating product, but also from its properties of controlling skin oiliness and excessive gloss.

Thus, the main objects of the present invention include to provide: a) A new moisturising and oiliness control system suitable for oily and combination, normal and oily, and dry and oily skins; b) A composition able to eliminate excessive gloss caused by excessive oiliness, caused by glandular hyper-secretion, specially in the T Zone (forehead, nose and chin areas); c) A composition for reducing skin oiliness immediately after its application, whose action will last for up to 3 hours after application; d) A composition for hydrating the skin which may act by forming a film that prevents the evaporation of water content in the corneal layer, thus preventing the skin from becoming dry; e) An oil-free composition, easily absorbed by the facial skin, which is also hypoallergenic, and which may be used day after day without causing the skin to stretch, as may be the case with other cosmetic creams; and f) A composition for rendering the skin smooth and well- balanced in its condition.

The present invention refers to a synergystic combination of moisturising ingredients, based a on polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol or other polyhydric alcohols such as polyethylene glycol, diglycerol, sorbitol or mixtures tiiereof, cyclomethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol, polyol esters, such as for example myristyl myristate and the like, and silica, comprising of: a) An oil-in-water emulsion made from an emulsion of self emulsifying waxes and water, or from the reaction products between acids and fatty alcohols with neutralising agents, or from silicone/ water emulsions; and b) a moisturising ingredient system containing: b. l) 0.0001 to 20 %, by weight, of polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol or another polyhydric alcohol; b.2) 0.1 to 10 %, by weight, of cyclomethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol; b.3) 0.001 to 5%, by weight, of one or more polyol esters; and c) 0.1 to 10% by weight of precipitated and/or agglomerated silica, and/or talcum.

Compositions according to the invention are preferably pigment free, and can be in the form of a skin cream for topical application, but also in the form of a cosmetic facial mask composition, which may be applied and left on the skin for a while, and subsequently washed off.

Compositions according to the invention may also additionally comprise the following optional but preferred ingredients:

Thickeners; - Bactericides;

Fungicides;

Antioxidants;

Fragrance; and

Water.

The present invention is based on the preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion system, typically emulsions with self-emulsifying waxes or acids, or neutralised fatty alcohols, with the addition of moisturising ingredients which can be mainly glycerol acrylate copolymer s, and absorbing ingredients, from which not only a skin hydrating cream, or composition, but also a composition which provides oiliness control is obtained. The technical basis of the present invention consists in the provision of both moisturising and oiliness reducing benefits in creams or cosmetic compositions of the same formulation.

The said cream or composition may contain two components, namely:

- a basic formulation containing moisturising ingredients, which may comprise mainly polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol and any other polyhydric alcohols, cyclomethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol, and polyol esters, and - a basic formulation containing only silica and/or talc;

- the composition according to the invention being formed by combining the component containing the moisturising ingredients (which may be mainly polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol or any other polyhydric alcohols, polyol esters, and cyclomethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol) and the silica/talc absorbent.

The basic formulation may be formulated into a new cream composition for topical application when formulated according to the above described procedure.

The invention will now be described by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which;

Figure 1 shows graphically the hydration and oiliness results from testing composition A;

Figure 2 shows graphically the hydration and oiliness results from testing composition B; and Figure 3 shows graphically the hydration and oiliness results from testing composition E.

Experimental

An estimate of the new skin cream composition's performance was carried out based on assessment of the following parameters:

Skin moisturising analysis and

Skin oiliness analysis.

The experimental tests carried out on compositions according to the present invention have the purpose of evaluating the performance of a skin cream which demonstrates a synergystic effect, which occurs due to the association of the selected moisturising ingredients, namely polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol or any other polyhydric alcohols, polyol esters, and cyclomethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol, and the absorbent or silica component (such as silicon dioxide).

A selection of 20 panellists with ages ranging from 18 to 45 years with combination (oily or normal) to oily skin, took part in the study.

The evaluation was carried out in one single stage, in which the 20 volunteers had their skin moisture condition and skin tallow level measured, during a period of 3 hours under controlled environment conditions (22 ± 2°C), relative humidity of 55 + 5%). Skin tallow-level and moisture measurements were made in forehead regions to the right and to the left, above the eyes, and in the left and right malarzygomatic regions (i.e. below the outer extremity of the eyes). Measurements were done at zero time (i.e. immediately before applying the product), and subsequently at 30 and 60 minutes after applying the product.

After the initial measurement, the product (0.27 g) is distributed on the right half of the face, and the left side of the face is used as control - ie no product is applied to this side of the face.

Moisture measurements were carried out using a CM 820, Courage + K Khazaka Electronic GmbH, through a measurement catheter. They were set by capacitance variations.

The readings were made by applying a catheter to the tested area, with a spring-provided power (3,5 N). The measured area corresponds to 49 mm2. The reading showed the moisture level at the skin surface.

The device's scale is arbitrary, that is, the higher values indicate a greater moisture value. Three valid measurement readings are taken for each area. The maximum variation among the readings should not be greater than 10 % of the value obtained in the measurement. The obtained measurements are represented by the figures 1 , 2, and 3 as shown in the attached graphs. An arithmetical mean of the three obtained values is effected, as being the result of each measurement.

Skin oiliness measurements were obtained using a "Tallowmeter" SM 810, Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH. They were based on fat spots photometry measurements.

The light transmissivity of the plastic film moist with tallow (skin fat) was measured. The film cartridge top of the apparatus for special measurement purposes is applied for 30 seconds to the relevant skin area. The measurement area corresponds to 1 cm2, and the result is presented in a g/cm2 scale. The measurements are done in duplicate. Two valid measurements are made for each area. The maximum variation between the readings should not be greater than 10% of the value obtained in the measurement. An arithmetical mean of the two values is calculated, as a result of each measurement.

The following data of the hydration and oiliness test obtained for creams A, B and E are useful to demonstrate that formulations according to the invention have a synergystic effect on the moisturising and absorbing ingredients.

Starting materials Cream A Cream B Cream E

% p/p %p/p %p/p

SEPIGEL 305 0.1-1.5 0.1-1.5 0.1-1.5

POLAWAX GP 200 1.0-15.0 1.0-15.0 1.0-15.0

CRODAMOL MM 0.001-5.0 ~ 0.001-5.0

SILICA ~ 0.1-10.0 0.1-10.0

MICROSPONGE WITH

GLYCEROL * 0.0001-20 ~ 0.0001-20.0

GERM ALL 115 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0

NIPAGIM 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0

NIPASOL 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0 0.1-1.0

FRAGRANCE 0.05-2.0 0.05-2.0 0.05-2.0

BRIJ 58 0.1-2.5 0.1-2.5 0.1-2.5

IONOL 0.01-1.0 0.01-1.0 0.01-1.0

SILICONE 0.1-10.0 — 0.1-10.0

Water to 100% to 100% to 100%

where; cream A represents a gel cream containing moisturising ingredients, cream B represents a gel cream containing absorbing ingredients, and cream E represents a cosmetic cream according to the invention, containing both the claimed absorbing and moisturizing ingredients.

A suitable species of microsponge is MICROSPONGE 647 GLYCERINE powder, ex Dow Corning. Figures 1-3 show the results of measurements made on composition A, B and E at the zero, and 30 and 60 minutes after application. All compositions had the same base composition, composition A contained the ester (myristyl myristate) at a level of 2.0% by weight, methacrylate copolymer moisturizers at a level of 0.5 % by weight and cyclomethicone at a level of 2.0% by weight which B lacked, whilst B contained the silica at a level of 1.0% by weight component which A lacked. Composition E contained the silica, and the ester, silicone and methacrylate copolymer moisturizer.

In terms of figures 1-3, measurements above zero for the hydration level indicate a higher level of hydration compared to the control, whereas measurements below zero for the oiliness reading indicate a lower level of oiliness compared to the control.

Cream E clearly shows improved levels of hydration at the 30 and 60 minute time intervals, compared to both the individual levels in creams A and B, and also the sumation of the two sets of values. In addition cream E clearly demonstrates improved (ie reduced) levels of oiliness at at least the 30 minute time interval, compared to cream A, cream B, and their summation.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for topical application comprising a synergystic composition which contains moisturising and absorbing ingredients, characterised in that it comprises; a) an oil-in-water emulsion prepared from self-emulsifying waxes and water, or from the reaction products between acids and fatty alcohols with neutralising agents, or silicone/ water emulsions; b) a moisturising ingredients system comprising: b. l) 0.0001 to 20% , by weight, of polymethacrylate copolymer containing glycerol or any other polyhydric alcohols; b.2) 0.1 a 10% , by weight, of one or more cyclopolymethicone and/or dimethicone copolyol; and b.3) 0.001 a 5 % , by weight, of one or more polyol esters; and c) 0. 1 to 10% , by weight, of one or more of precipitated and/or agglomerated silica, and/or talcum.

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 , characterised in that the methacrylate copolymer is a Microsponge (trade mark) polymer.

3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterised in that the polyhydric alcohol is selected from polyethylene glycol, diglycerol or sorbitol, or mixtures thereof.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the polyol ester is myristyl myristate.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterised in that the cosmetic composition is a skin cream.

6. A film or facial mask characterised in that it comprises a cosmetic composition as described in any one of claims 1-4.

7. A method of cosmetic treatment of the face characterised by the use of the composition, film and/or facial mask as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6.