WO2001035915A1 - Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes - Google Patents

Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001035915A1
WO2001035915A1 PCT/FR2000/003149 FR0003149W WO0135915A1 WO 2001035915 A1 WO2001035915 A1 WO 2001035915A1 FR 0003149 W FR0003149 W FR 0003149W WO 0135915 A1 WO0135915 A1 WO 0135915A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition according
film
composition
polyurethanes
cosmetic
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2000/003149
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Henri Samain
Christine Dupuis
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR0015762-7A priority Critical patent/BR0015762A/en
Priority to AU17113/01A priority patent/AU1711301A/en
Priority to EP00979714A priority patent/EP1233741A1/en
Priority to CA002391640A priority patent/CA2391640A1/en
Priority to JP2001537708A priority patent/JP2003527339A/en
Priority to KR1020027006283A priority patent/KR20020050285A/en
Priority to MXPA02004996A priority patent/MXPA02004996A/en
Publication of WO2001035915A1 publication Critical patent/WO2001035915A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyurethane (A) with particular characteristics. It also relates to a process for shaping or maintaining hair using this composition, as well as its use for the formulation of hair cosmetic products, such as styling products such as hairsprays, sprays or mousses, in order to obtain the maintenance or shaping of the hairstyle.
  • hair cosmetic products such as styling products such as hairsprays, sprays or mousses
  • compositions for spraying in an aerosol or in a pump bottle such as lacquers, sprays or foams, essentially consisting of a more often alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and of a film-forming polymer soluble in water or in alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.
  • these hair formulations such as mousses, gels and especially sprays and aerosol lacquers intended to maintain the shape of the hairstyle do not yet allow the hairstyle to resist satisfactorily the various natural movements of life such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.
  • the polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic film-forming polymers, which lead to the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.
  • the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally less than 2% and the holding of the hairstyle is not ensured over time.
  • these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers and obtained more flexible and non-friable coatings.
  • these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that after deformation, they recover very little of their initial shape. If the holding of the hairstyle is improved, it is not yet satisfactory since the shape of the hairstyle changes over time.
  • compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as for example a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer.
  • film-forming polymers such as for example a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer.
  • these compositions are not yet entirely satisfactory, insofar as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties.
  • Cosmetic compositions are therefore sought, in particular for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle which provides the hair, in addition to lasting fixation, with good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance.
  • the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen such that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity of 50%, has a mechanical profile defined by at least:
  • Another object of the present invention relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
  • Yet another object of the present invention relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions, with a view to obtaining maintenance or shaping of the hairstyle.
  • the polyurethanes (N) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Sanyo under the name PA Marin UA310 and PA Marin UA200, as well as the polyurethane marketed by Zeneca under the name ⁇ eorez R987.
  • the PN Marin UA200 and ⁇ eroez R987 polyurethanes are polyether polyurethanes, and the PA Marin UA310 polyurethane is a carbonate polyurethane.
  • the term film obtained by drying at room temperature (22 ⁇ 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity level of 50% ⁇ 5% means the film obtained under these conditions from a mixture with 6% of active material (ma) of polymer N with ethanol or water, the quantity of mixture being adapted to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 ⁇ 50 ⁇ . Drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days.
  • the polymers N which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol.
  • the other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form.
  • the film is cut into test pieces of rectangular shape, length 80 mm and width 15 mm:
  • the tests are carried out on a device marketed under the name Lloyd or marketed under the name Zwick under the same temperature conditions and humidity only for drying, i.e. a temperature of 22 ⁇ 2 ° C and a relative humidity of 50 ⁇ 5%.
  • test pieces are drawn at a speed of 20mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 ⁇ 1 mm.
  • the specimen is stretched by 150% ( ⁇ max ), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (I 0 ) - the stress is relaxed by imposing a return speed equal to the traction speed, ie 20mm / min and the elongation of the test piece is measured as a percentage, after return to zero load ( ⁇ ;).
  • R; (( ⁇ m ax - ⁇ ; ) / ⁇ max ) x 100
  • the specimen having undergone the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds, and its percentage elongation rate is measured ( ⁇ 30 o).
  • R 3 00 (( ⁇ m ax - ⁇ 3 where) / ⁇ max) X 100
  • the glass transition temperature is evaluated using the MDSC 299 device sold by TA Instrument, in standard mode. Preferably, the glass transition temperature is less than 10 ° C.
  • the film-forming polyurethane (s) (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the film-forming polyurethane (A) is chosen from the group comprising polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyurethane carbonates.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols or water-solvent mixtures (s), these solvents being preferably CC 4 alcohols.
  • composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins , anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, and any other additive conventionally used in the compositions cosmetics intended to be applied to the hair.
  • additives chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins , anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, and any
  • compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump dispensers or in aerosol devices, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a hairspray or mousse for fixing or treating hair.
  • the compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes.
  • composition according to the invention when packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or a foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures.
  • propellants such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures.
  • Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as a propellant.
  • Mixtures of propellants can also be used.
  • dimethyl ether is used.
  • the propellant is present at a concentration between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and, more particularly, at a concentration between 10 and 60%.
  • compositions according to the invention can be applied to dry or damp hair.
  • compositions are produced in accordance with the invention.
  • Composition 1 is a composition of Composition 1:
  • PA Marin UA 310 marketed by Sanyo 6% m.a
  • PA Marin UA 200 marketed by Sanyo 6%
  • Composition 3 is a composition of Composition 3:
  • Neorez R987 marketed by Zeneca 6%
  • compositions 1 ′ to 3 ′ are used in accordance with the invention and identical to compositions 1 to 3, except that they contain 1.5% of m.a. instead of 6%.

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least a film-forming polyurethane (A) selected such that the material resulting from drying said polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at room temperature and at a relative humidity rate of 50 %, has a profile defined by at least: (a) an ultimate elongation (εr) not less than 500 %; (b) an instantaneous recovery (Ri) ranging between 30 and 85 %; (c) a recovery (R300) at 300 seconds ranging between 50 and 100 %; (d) a glass transition temperature less than 45 °C.

Description

COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE CAPILLAIRE PROCURANT DE BONNES PROPRIETES DE TENUE ET COMPRENANT DES POLYURETHANNES HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION PROVIDING GOOD HOLD PROPERTIES AND COMPRISING POLYURETHANES
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L'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un polyuréthanne (A) aux caractéristiques particulières. Elle vise également un procédé de mise en forme ou de maintien des cheveux à l'aide de cette composition, ainsi que son utilisation pour la formulation de produits cosmétique capillaire, comme des produits de coiffage tels que les laques, les sprays ou les mousses, en vue d'obtenir le maintien ou la mise en forme de la coiffure.The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one polyurethane (A) with particular characteristics. It also relates to a process for shaping or maintaining hair using this composition, as well as its use for the formulation of hair cosmetic products, such as styling products such as hairsprays, sprays or mousses, in order to obtain the maintenance or shaping of the hairstyle.
Parmi les produits capillaires pour la fixation des cheveux les plus répandus sur le marché de la cosmétique, on peut citer les compositions à pulvériser en aérosol ou en flacon pompe tels que les laques, les sprays ou les mousses, essentiellement constituées d'une solution le plus souvent alcoolique ou hydroalcoolique et d'un polymère filmogène soluble dans l'eau ou dans l'alcool, en mélange avec divers adjuvants cosmétiques.Among the hair products for fixing hair that are most widespread on the cosmetic market, there may be mentioned compositions for spraying in an aerosol or in a pump bottle, such as lacquers, sprays or foams, essentially consisting of a more often alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and of a film-forming polymer soluble in water or in alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuvants.
Toutefois, ces formulations capillaires telles que les mousses, gels et surtout les sprays et les laques aérosols destinées à maintenir la forme de la coiffure ne permettent encore pas à la coiffure de résister de manière satisfaisante aux différents mouvements naturels de la vie comme la marche, les mouvements de tête ou les coups de vent.However, these hair formulations such as mousses, gels and especially sprays and aerosol lacquers intended to maintain the shape of the hairstyle do not yet allow the hairstyle to resist satisfactorily the various natural movements of life such as walking, head movements or gusts of wind.
Les polymères utilisés pour la formulation de ces produits capillaires sont des polymères filmogenes anioniques, amphotères ou non ioniques, qui conduisent à la formation de films possédant un caractère plus ou moins dur et cassant.The polymers used for the formulation of these hair products are anionic, amphoteric or nonionic film-forming polymers, which lead to the formation of films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.
Lorsque le polymère est trop cassant, le pourcentage d'allongement à la rupture mesuré sur le film est faible, c'est-à-dire en général inférieur à 2 % et la tenue de la coiffure n'est pas assurée dans le temps. Pour remédier à ce problème, on a déjà mélangé ces polymères avec des plastifiants et obtenu des revêtements plus souples et non friables. Toutefois, ces films sont déformables et plastiques, c'est-à-dire qu'après déformation, ils ne récupèrent que très peu de leur forme initiale. Si la tenue de la coiffure est améliorée, elle n'est pas encore satisfaisante puisque la forme de la coiffure évolue dans le temps.When the polymer is too brittle, the percentage of elongation at break measured on the film is low, that is to say generally less than 2% and the holding of the hairstyle is not ensured over time. To remedy this problem, these polymers have already been mixed with plasticizers and obtained more flexible and non-friable coatings. However, these films are deformable and plastic, that is to say that after deformation, they recover very little of their initial shape. If the holding of the hairstyle is improved, it is not yet satisfactory since the shape of the hairstyle changes over time.
Des résultats plus satisfaisants en terme de tenue ont été obtenus avec des compositions comprenant une association de polymères filmogenes, tels que par exemple un polymère polyvinylcaprolactame et un polymère acrylique. Toutefois, ces compositions ne donnent encore pas entièrement satisfaction, dans la mesure où les cheveux perdent certaines de leurs propriétés cosmétiques naturelles. En outre, il serait souhaitable d'augmenter encore le pouvoir fixant.More satisfactory results in terms of resistance have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers, such as for example a polyvinylcaprolactam polymer and an acrylic polymer. However, these compositions are not yet entirely satisfactory, insofar as the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties. In addition, it would be desirable to further increase the fixing power.
On recherche donc des compositions cosmétiques, en particulier pour le maintien et/ou la fixation de la coiffure qui procurent à la chevelure, outre une fixation durable, de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques, notamment un bon démêlage, de la douceur et un aspect agréable.Cosmetic compositions are therefore sought, in particular for maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle which provides the hair, in addition to lasting fixation, with good cosmetic properties, in particular good disentangling, softness and a pleasant appearance.
De manière surprenante et inattendue, la Demanderesse a découvert qu'il était possible de remédier aux problèmes techniques évoqués ci-dessus, en utilisant des polymères particuliers.Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the Applicant has discovered that it is possible to remedy the technical problems mentioned above, by using specific polymers.
L'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un polyuréthanne filmogène (A) choisi de telle sorte que le matériau obtenu par séchage de ce polymère en milieu aqueux ou alcoolique, à température ambiante et à un taux d'humidité relative de 50 %, présente un profil mécanique défini par au moins:The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen such that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity of 50%, has a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(a) un taux d'allongement à la rupture (εr) supérieur ou égal à 500 %;(a) a rate of elongation at break (ε r ) greater than or equal to 500%;
(b) une recouvrance instantanée (R;) comprise entre 30 et 85 %, (c) une recouvrance (R3oo) à 300 secondes comprise entre 50 et 100 %,(b) an instant recovery (R;) of between 30 and 85%, (c) a recovery (R 3 oo) at 300 seconds of between 50 and 100%,
(d) une température de transition vitreuse inférieure à 40 °C. Un autre objet de la présente invention concerne un procédé de mise en forme ou de maintien de la coiffure comprenant la mise en œuvre de cette composition.(d) a glass transition temperature below 40 ° C. Another object of the present invention relates to a method of shaping or maintaining the hairstyle comprising the use of this composition.
Encore un autre objet de la présente invention concerne l'utilisation de cette composition pour la fabrication de compositions cosmétiques capillaires, en vue d'obtenir un maintien ou une mise en forme de la coiffure.Yet another object of the present invention relates to the use of this composition for the manufacture of hair cosmetic compositions, with a view to obtaining maintenance or shaping of the hairstyle.
Les polyuréthannes (N) particulièrement visés par la présente invention sont ceux distribués par Sanyo sous l'appellation PA Marin UA310 et PA Marin UA200, ainsi que le polyuréthanne commercialisé par Zeneca sous l'appellation Νeorez R987.The polyurethanes (N) particularly targeted by the present invention are those distributed by Sanyo under the name PA Marin UA310 and PA Marin UA200, as well as the polyurethane marketed by Zeneca under the name Νeorez R987.
Les polyuréthannes PN Marin UA200 et Νeroez R987 sont des polyuréthannes polyéthers, et le polyuréthanne PA Marin UA310 est un polyuréthanne carbonate.The PN Marin UA200 and Νeroez R987 polyurethanes are polyether polyurethanes, and the PA Marin UA310 polyurethane is a carbonate polyurethane.
Nu sens de la présente invention, on entend par film obtenu par séchage à température ambiante (22 ± 2°C) et à un taux d'humidité relative de 50 % ± 5%, le film obtenu dans ces conditions à partir d'un mélange à 6 % de matière active (m. a.) de polymère N avec de l'éthanol ou de l'eau, la quantité de mélange étant adaptée pour obtenir dans une matrice en téflon, un film d'épaisseur de 500 ± 50 μ . Le séchage est poursuivi jusqu'à ce que le poids du film n'évolue plus, ce qui représente environ 12 jours. Les polymères N solubles ou partiellement solubles dans l'éthanol sont testés dans l'éthanol. Les autres polymères sont testés dans l'eau sous forme soluble ou dispersée.Naked sense of the present invention, the term film obtained by drying at room temperature (22 ± 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity level of 50% ± 5% means the film obtained under these conditions from a mixture with 6% of active material (ma) of polymer N with ethanol or water, the quantity of mixture being adapted to obtain, in a Teflon matrix, a film with a thickness of 500 ± 50 μ. Drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which represents approximately 12 days. The polymers N which are soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. The other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form.
Nu sens de la présente invention, le taux d'élongation à la rupture et le taux de recouvrance sont évalués aux moyens des essais décrits ci-après.Naked sense of the present invention, the rate of elongation at break and the recovery rate are evaluated by means of the tests described below.
Pour effectuer les essais de traction, le film est découpé en éprouvettes de forme rectangulaire, de longueur 80 mm et de largeur 15 mm:To carry out the tensile tests, the film is cut into test pieces of rectangular shape, length 80 mm and width 15 mm:
Les essais sont réalisés sur un appareil commercialisé sous l'appellation Lloyd ou commercialisé sous l'appellation Zwick dans les mêmes conditions de températures et d'humidité que pour le séchage, c'est-à-dire une température de 22 ± 2 °C et un taux d'humidité relative de 50 ± 5 %.The tests are carried out on a device marketed under the name Lloyd or marketed under the name Zwick under the same temperature conditions and humidity only for drying, i.e. a temperature of 22 ± 2 ° C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%.
Les éprouvettes sont étirées à la vitesse de 20mm/mn et la distance entre les mors est de 50 ± 1 mm.The test pieces are drawn at a speed of 20mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 ± 1 mm.
Pour déterminer la recouvrance instantanée (R;), on procède comme suit:To determine the instant recovery (R;), proceed as follows:
- on étire l'éprouvette de 150 % (εmax) c'est-à-dire 1,5 fois sa longueur initiale (I0) - on relâche la contrainte en imposant une vitesse de retour égale à la vitesse de traction, soit 20mm/mn et on mesure l'allongement de l'éprouvette en pourcentage , après retour à charge nulle (ε;).- the specimen is stretched by 150% (ε max ), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (I 0 ) - the stress is relaxed by imposing a return speed equal to the traction speed, ie 20mm / min and the elongation of the test piece is measured as a percentage, after return to zero load (ε;).
La recouvrance instantanée en % (R;) est donnée par la formule ci- après:The instant recovery in% (R;) is given by the following formula:
R; = ((εmax - ε;)/ εmax) x 100R; = ((ε m ax - ε ; ) / ε max ) x 100
Pour déterminer la recouvrance à 300 secondes, on maintient à contrainte nulle pendant 300 secondes supplémentaires, l'éprouvette ayant subi les opérations précédentes, et on mesure son taux d'allongement en pourcentage (ε30o).To determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the specimen having undergone the preceding operations is maintained at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds, and its percentage elongation rate is measured (ε 30 o).
La recouvrance à 300 secondes en % (R30o) est donnée par la formule ci-après:The recovery at 300 seconds in% (R 30 o) is given by the following formula:
R300 = ((εmax - ε3oθ)/ εmax) X 100R 3 00 = ((ε m ax - ε 3 where) / ε max) X 100
La température de transition vitreuse est évaluée à l'aide de l'appareil MDSC 299 commercialisé par TA Instrument, en mode standard. De préférence, la température de transition vitreuse est inférieure à 10 °C.The glass transition temperature is evaluated using the MDSC 299 device sold by TA Instrument, in standard mode. Preferably, the glass transition temperature is less than 10 ° C.
Dans les compositions conformes à l'invention, le ou les polyuréthannes filmogenes (A) sont, de préférence, présents à des concentrations comprises entre 0,05 et 20 % en poids, plus préférentiellement comprises entre 0,1 et 15 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement entre 0,25 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.In the compositions according to the invention, the film-forming polyurethane (s) (A) are preferably present at concentrations of between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
De manière avantageuse, le polyuréthanne filmogène (A) est choisi dans le groupe comprenant les polyuréthannes les polyuréthannes polyéthers, les polyuréthannes carbonates.Advantageously, the film-forming polyurethane (A) is chosen from the group comprising polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyurethane carbonates.
Le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable est, de préférence, constitué par de l'eau ou un ou plusieurs solvants cosmétiquement acceptables tels que des alcools ou des mélanges eau-solvant(s), ces solvants étant de préférence des alcools en C C4.The cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably constituted by water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents such as alcohols or water-solvent mixtures (s), these solvents being preferably CC 4 alcohols.
Parmi ces alcools, on peut citer l'éthanol, l'isopropanol. L'éthanol est particulièrement préféré.Among these alcohols, mention may be made of ethanol and isopropanol. Ethanol is particularly preferred.
La composition de l'invention peut également contenir au moins un additif choisi parmi les silicones, les épaississants, les tensioactifs anioniques, non ioniques, cationiques ou amphotères, les parfums, les conservateurs, les filtres solaires, les protéines, les vitamines, les provitamines, les polymères non fixants anioniques, non ioniques, cationiques ou amphotères, les huiles minérales, végétales ou synthétiques, les céramides, pseudocéramides, les silicones volatiles ou non, linéaires ou cycliques, modifiées ou non, et tout autre additif classiquement utilisé dans les compositions cosmétiques destinées à être appliquées sur les cheveux.The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins , anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile, linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, and any other additive conventionally used in the compositions cosmetics intended to be applied to the hair.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels composés à ajouter à la composition selon l'invention de mamère telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition conforme à l'invention ne soient pas ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'addition envisagée.Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention, such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not , altered by the proposed addition.
Ces compositions peuvent être conditionnées sous diverses formes, notamment dans des flacons pompes ou dans des dispositifs aérosols, afin d'assurer une application de la composition sous forme vaporisée ou sous forme de mousse. De telles formes de conditionnement sont indiquées, par exemple, lorsqu'on souhaite obtenir un spray, une laque ou une mousse pour la fixation ou le traitement des cheveux. Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent aussi se présenter sous la forme de crèmes, de gels, d'émulsions, de lotions ou de cires.These compositions can be packaged in various forms, in particular in pump dispensers or in aerosol devices, in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a hairspray or mousse for fixing or treating hair. The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes.
Lorsque la composition selon l'invention est conditionnée sous forme d'aérosol en vue d'obtenir une laque ou une mousse, elle comprend au moins un agent propulseur qui peut être choisi parmi les hydrocarbures volatils tels que le n-butane, le propane, l'isobutane, le pentane, un hydrocarbure chloré et/ou fluoré et leurs mélanges. On peut également utiliser en tant qu'agent propulseur le gaz carbonique, le protoxyde d'azote, le diméthyléther (DME), l'azote, l'air comprimé. On peut aussi utiliser des mélanges de propulseurs. De préférence, on utilise le diméthyl éther.When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or a foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and their mixtures. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air can also be used as a propellant. Mixtures of propellants can also be used. Preferably, dimethyl ether is used.
Avantageusement, l'agent propulseur est présent à une concentration comprise entre 5 et 90 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition dans le dispositif aérosol et, plus particulièrement, à une concentration comprise entre 10 et 60 %.Advantageously, the propellant is present at a concentration between 5 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device and, more particularly, at a concentration between 10 and 60%.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent être appliquées sur des cheveux secs ou humides.The compositions according to the invention can be applied to dry or damp hair.
L'invention va être plus complètement illustrée à l'aide de l'exemple non limitatif suivant.-The invention will be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following nonlimiting example.
Tous les pourcentages sont des pourcentages relatifs en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition et m.a. signifie matière active.All the percentages are relative percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and m.a. means active ingredient.
EXEMPLE :EXAMPLE:
On réalise les compositions suivantes conformes à l'invention.The following compositions are produced in accordance with the invention.
Composition 1 :Composition 1:
PA Marin UA 310 commercialisé par Sanyo 6 % m.aPA Marin UA 310 marketed by Sanyo 6% m.a
Ethanol qsp 100 g Composition 2 :Ethanol qs 100 g Composition 2:
PA Marin UA 200 commercialisé par Sanyo 6 %PA Marin UA 200 marketed by Sanyo 6%
Ethanol qsp 100 gEthanol qs 100 g
Composition 3 :Composition 3:
Neorez R987 commercialisé par Zeneca 6 %Neorez R987 marketed by Zeneca 6%
Ethanol qsp 100 gEthanol qs 100 g
Les paramètres définissant le profil mécanique des compositions sont rassemblés dans le tableau I ci-après. The parameters defining the mechanical profile of the compositions are collated in Table I below.
Tableau ITable I
Figure imgf000009_0001
Figure imgf000009_0001
On utilise des compositions 1 ' à 3' conformes à l'invention et identiques aux compositions 1 à 3, si ce n'est qu'elles contiennent 1,5 % de m.a. au lieu de 6 %.Compositions 1 ′ to 3 ′ are used in accordance with the invention and identical to compositions 1 to 3, except that they contain 1.5% of m.a. instead of 6%.
Après conditionnement de ces solutions dans des flacons pompes et applications de 10 pressions sur des mèches de cheveux naturels de 5 grammes préalablement lavés et séchés, on constate que ces compositions fixent bien la coiffure et donnent aux cheveux un toucher gainé agréable. After conditioning of these solutions in pump bottles and applications of 10 pressures on locks of natural hair of 5 grams previously washed and dried, it is found that these compositions fix the hairstyle well and give the hair a pleasant sheathed feel.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition cosmétique comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un polyuréthanne filmogène (A) choisi de telle sorte que le matériau obtenu par séchage de ce polymère en milieu aqueux ou alcoolique, à température ambiante et à un taux d'humidité relative de 50 %, présente un profil mécanique défini par au moins:1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one film-forming polyurethane (A) chosen such that the material obtained by drying this polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium, at ambient temperature and at a relative humidity level 50%, has a mechanical profile defined by at least:
(a) un taux d'allongement à la rupture (εr) supérieur ou égal à 500 %; (b) une recouvrance instantanée (R;) comprise entre 30 et 85 %,(a) a rate of elongation at break (ε r ) greater than or equal to 500%; (b) an instant recovery (R ; ) of between 30 and 85%,
(c) une recouvrance (R3oo) à 300 secondes comprise entre 50 et 100 %,(c) a recovery (R 3 oo) at 300 seconds of between 50 and 100%,
(d) une température de transition vitreuse inférieure à 40 °C.(d) a glass transition temperature below 40 ° C.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée par le fait que la température de transition vitreuse inférieure à 10 °C.2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the glass transition temperature below 10 ° C.
3. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que ou les polyuréthannes filmogenes (A) sont, de préférence, présents à des concentrations comprises entre 0,05 et 20 % en poids, plus préférentiellement comprises entre 0,1 et 15 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement entre 0,25 et 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polyurethanes (A) are preferably present at concentrations between 0.05 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0, 1 and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 0.25 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait que le ou les polyuréthanne(s) filmogène(s) (A) est (sont) choisi(s) dans le groupe comprenant les polyuréthannes polyéthers, les polyuréthannes carbonates.4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polyurethane (s) (A) is (are) chosen from the group comprising polyether polyurethanes, polyurethane carbonates .
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle contient en outre des additifs cosmétiques conventionnels choisis les silicones, les épaississants, les tensioactifs anioniques, non ioniques, cationiques ou amphotères, les parfums, les conservateurs, les filtres solaires, les protéines, les vitamines, les provitamines, les polymères non fixants anioniques, non ioniques, cationiques ou amphotères, les huiles minérales, végétales ou synthétiques, les céramides, pseudocéramides, les silicones volatiles ou non, linéaires ou cycliques, modifiées ou non, et tout autre additif classiquement utilisé dans les compositions cosmétiques destinées à être appliquées sur les cheveux.5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains conventional cosmetic additives chosen from silicones, thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sunscreens, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric non-fixing polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-linear or cyclic silicones, modified or not, and any other additive conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the hair.
6. Dispositif aérosol contenant une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes. ' 6. Aerosol device containing a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. '
7. Procédé de maintien ou de mise en forme de la coiffure, caractérisé par le fait qu'il comprend la mise en œuvre d'une composition conforme à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5.7. Method for maintaining or shaping the hairstyle, characterized in that it comprises the use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
8. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, pour la fabrication d'un produit cosmétique capillaire, en vue de maintenir et/ou de fixer la coiffure. 8. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, for the manufacture of a hair cosmetic product, with a view to maintaining and / or fixing the hairstyle.
PCT/FR2000/003149 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes WO2001035915A1 (en)

Priority Applications (7)

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BR0015762-7A BR0015762A (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic composition comprising polyurethanes, aerosol device, styling or styling process and use of a composition
AU17113/01A AU1711301A (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes
EP00979714A EP1233741A1 (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes
CA002391640A CA2391640A1 (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes
JP2001537708A JP2003527339A (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Hair cosmetic composition providing excellent retention properties and comprising polyurethane
KR1020027006283A KR20020050285A (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes
MXPA02004996A MXPA02004996A (en) 1999-11-19 2000-11-10 Cosmetic hair composition providing good resistance properties and comprising polyurethanes.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR99/14590 1999-11-19
FR9914590A FR2801203B1 (en) 1999-11-19 1999-11-19 HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION PROVIDING GOOD HOLD PROPERTIES AND COMPRISING POLYURETHANES

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FR2831437B1 (en) * 2001-10-26 2004-02-06 Oreal COSMETIC HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NON-ASSOCIATIVE FIXING POLYURETHANE AND ANIONIC OR NON-IONIC ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE, AND COSMETIC TREATMENT METHOD
US20050209428A1 (en) * 2002-06-19 2005-09-22 Krishnan Tamareselvy Breathable polyurethanes, blends, and articles
FR2872428B1 (en) * 2004-07-01 2006-09-15 Oreal PRESSURIZED CAPILLARY COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ELASTOMERIC FILMOGENIC POLYMER
WO2006003027A1 (en) * 2004-07-01 2006-01-12 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a tensioning agent and an elastomeric film-forming polymer
FR2872410B1 (en) * 2004-07-01 2006-12-15 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A TENSOR AND ELASTOMERIC FILMOGENIC POLYMER
FR2872424B1 (en) * 2004-07-01 2006-12-29 Oreal NON-RINSE COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ELASTOMERIC FILMOGENIC POLYMERS, ITS USE FOR PACKAGING KERATINIC MATERIALS
FR2872425B1 (en) * 2004-07-01 2006-12-22 Oreal RINSE COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ELASTOMERIC FILMOGENIC POLYMERS, USE THEREOF FOR CONDITIONING KERATINIC MATERIALS

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RU2002116369A (en) 2004-01-20
BR0015762A (en) 2002-08-06
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CN1167404C (en) 2004-09-22
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AU1711301A (en) 2001-05-30

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