WO2003082222A2

WO2003082222A2 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical low-viscosity (atomizable) o/w emulsions containing phospholipids

Info

Publication number: WO2003082222A2
Application number: PCT/EP2003/002983
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jörg SCHREIBER; Mirko Tesch
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2002-03-28
Filing date: 2003-03-21
Publication date: 2003-10-09
Also published as: DE10213955A1; WO2003082222A3; EP1492490A2

Abstract

The invention relates to low-viscosity, in particular atomizable, oil-in-water type microemulsions containing phospholipids. Said microemulsions comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are essentially composed of poorly volatile constituents and contain at least one phospholipid, at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W/O emulsifier. The emulsions are obtained as follows: the aqueous phase with its constituents is added to the oily phase with its constituents, in particular the phospholipid, the O/W emulsifier and optionally the W/O emulsifier, whereby the phases are mixed together to obtain a gel state; if a low-visosity O/W microemulsion is desired, other parts are added to the aqueous phase and the phases are mixed; said phases can, if so desired contain additional adjuvants, additives and/or active ingredients.

Description

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity (sprayable) O / W emulsions

The present invention relates to low-viscosity, in particular sprayable OΛ / V emulsions containing phospholipids, processes for their preparation and their use for cosmetic or pharmaceutical purposes. They are used topically in particular, can serve as a wipe or tissue soaking medium, or can be sprayed or foamed.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood to mean that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

Medical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products. Common manifestations of cosmetic or dermatological preparations are finely dispersed multiphase systems in which one or more fat or oil phases are present in addition to one or more water phases. Of these systems are as _¬ derum the actual emulsions, the most widely used.

In simple emulsions there are finely dispersed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) enclosed in an emulsifier shell in one phase. The droplet diameters of the common emulsions are in the range from approx. 200 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such "macroemulsions" are milky white and opaque without any additional coloring additives.

In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers is harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like any chemical substance, can cause allergic or hypersensitive reactions in individual cases.

It is known, for example, that certain light dermatoses are triggered by certain emulsifiers, but also by various fats, and simultaneous exposure to sunlight. Such light dermatoses are also called "Mallorca acne". One object of the present invention was therefore to develop sun protection products.

Thus, the present invention relates as special embodiments to cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations, in particular to skin care cosmetic and dermatological light protection preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. While rays with a wavelength shorter than 290 nm (the so-called UVG range) are absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight. To protect against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, most of which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, -amino benzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can also cause damage. It has been shown that UVA radiation leads to damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely, and that it can be seen as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

However, UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin's metabolism.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers can be incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

UV absorbers or UV reflectors are most inorganic pigments that are known to be used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications.

Because of their good sprayability, phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity O / W emulsions are also suitable for other cosmetic dermatological applications, for example deodorants, so that the present invention relates in a particular embodiment to phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity O / W emulsions as the basis for cosmetic deodorants.

Cosmetic deodorants are used to eliminate body odor that arises when the fresh, odorless sweat is decomposed by microorganisms. The usual cosmetic deodorants are based on different active principles.

In so-called antiperspirants, the formation of sweat can be reduced by astringents - predominantly aluminum salts such as aluminum hydroxychloride (aluminum chlorohydrate).

The use of antimicrobial substances in cosmetic deodorants can reduce the bacterial flora on the skin. Ideally, only the odor-causing microorganisms should be effectively reduced. The sweat flow itself is not affected by this, in the ideal case only the microbial decomposition of the sweat is temporarily stopped.

The combination of astringents with antimicrobial substances in one and the same composition is also common.

Deodorants should meet the following conditions: 1) They should cause reliable deodorization. 2) The natural biological processes of the skin must not be impaired by the deodorants.

3) The deodorants must be harmless in the event of an overdose or other improper use.

4) They should not accumulate on the skin after repeated use. 5) They should be easy to incorporate into common cosmetic formulations.

Both liquid deodorants, for example aerosol sprays, roll-ons and the like, and solid preparations, for example deodorant sticks, powders, powder sprays, intimate cleansers, etc. are known and customary.

The use of lecithin-containing, low-viscosity O / W emulsions as a basis for deodorant or antiperspirant preparations is also known. Their relatively high content of emulsifiers, with the disadvantages described, was previously a problem that had to be remedied. It was therefore a further object of the present invention, _¬ wrap preparations to ent, which are suitable as a basis for cosmetic deodorants and antiperspirants, and not have the disadvantages of the prior art.

Furthermore, it was an object of the invention to develop cosmetic bases for cosmetic deodorants which are distinguished by good skin tolerance.

A further object of the present invention was to provide products based on lecithin-containing, low-viscosity O / W emulsions with the widest possible range of applications. For example, the basis for preparation forms such as cleaning emulsions, face and body care preparations, but also very medicinal-pharmaceutical forms of administration should be created, for example preparations for acne and other skin symptoms.

In a particular embodiment, the invention therefore relates to cleaning emulsions, in particular facial cleaning emulsions, preferably make-up removers, for example eye make-up removers.

Such preparations are known per se. These are usually mixtures of cosmetic oils or aqueous preparations of surface-active substances, the function of which is to solubilize the impurity or the make-up body and to remove it from the skin.

Waterproof eye make-up, for example mascara, can only be removed satisfactorily with make-up removers on an aqueous basis using special surfactants. However, these aspects often have only limited physiological tolerance. When such substances come into contact with the mucous membrane, in particular the mucous membrane of the eyes, these substances cause irritation, which is manifested, for example, in reddening of the eyes. Reactions of this kind are typical for products containing surfactants.

An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy such problems. In another embodiment, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations. In particular, the present invention relates to hair cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair and the scalp. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to preparations which serve to strengthen the individual hair and / or to give the hair style overall hold and fullness.

Roughly generalized, human hair can be divided into the living part, the hair root, and the dead part, the hair shaft. The hair shaft in turn consists of the medulla, which, due to developmental history, has become insignificant and receded for modern humans and is often completely absent with thin hair, furthermore the cortex surrounding the medulla and the cuticle surrounding the whole of the medulla and cortex.

The cuticle in particular, but also the keratinous area between the cuticle and cortex as the outer covering of the hair, are particularly exposed to environmental influences, by combing and brushing, but also by hair treatment, in particular hair coloring and hair shaping, e.g. Perm method, exposed.

In the case of particularly aggressive stress, for example bleaching with oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide, in which the pigments distributed in the cortex are oxidatively destroyed, the interior of the hair can also be affected. If human hair is to be dyed permanently, in practice only oxidizing hair dyeing processes can be considered. In oxidative hair dyeing, the dye chromophore is formed by the reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, less often diamines) and bases (mostly p-phenylenediamine) with the oxidizing agent, mostly hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide concentrations around 6% are usually used.

It is usually assumed that, in addition to the coloring effect, the hydrogen peroxide also has a bleaching effect. Similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the areas where melanin granules were present can be detected in oxidatively colored human hair. The fact is that the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide not only with the color precursors, but also with the Hair substance react and may cause damage to the hair.

Even washing hair with aggressive surfactants can stress the hair, at least reduce its appearance or the appearance of the hairstyle overall. For example, certain water-soluble hair components (e.g. urea, uric acid, xanthine, keratin, glycogen, citric acid, lactic acid) can be leached out by washing the hair.

For these reasons, hair care cosmetics have been used for some time, which are intended to be rinsed out of the hair again after exposure, and others which are intended to remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated in such a way that they not only serve to care for the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of the hairstyle, for example by giving the hair more volume, fixing the hairstyle over a longer period of time or improving its manageability.

The combability of the hair, for example, can be decisively improved by quaternary ammonium compounds. Such connections are drawn onto the hair and are often still detectable on the hair after several washes.

However, the prior art lacked active ingredients and preparations which damage the damaged hair. gave care in a satisfactory manner. Preparations which should give the hairstyle fullness also often proved to be inadequate, at least they were unsuitable for use as hair care preparations. Preparations of the prior art which fix the hairstyle generally contain, for example, viscous constituents which run the risk of awakening a feeling of stickiness which often has to be compensated for by skillful formulation.

The task was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. Finally, the path to internally applicable emulsions, for example for the parenteral administration of active pharmaceutical ingredients and for parenteral nutrition, should also be opened by the present invention.

A particular object of the present invention was to provide finely dispersed oil-in-water preparations with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological applications, for example, can find the uses described above. Another object of the invention was to enrich the limited supply of finely dispersed oil-in-water preparations of the prior art.

A particular object of the present invention was to provide low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed oil-in-water systems with the lowest possible emulsifier content, which do not have the disadvantages of the prior art and which are suitable for a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological Applications, for example the uses described above can find. Another object of the invention was to enrich the limited range of low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed phospholipid-containing systems of the oil-in-water type of the prior art.

A further object of the invention was to enrich the limited supply of low-viscosity preparations based on finely dispersed phospholipid-containing systems of the oil-in-water type of the prior art, which can be sprayed or can also serve as impregnation medium for wipes, tissues or from one Pumpoamer can be used as foam.

Lecithin-containing emulsions for cosmetic, pharmaceutical, parenteral applications are known from the literature. These are often obtained by high pressure homogenization. It is disadvantageous that high shear forces arise on the droplets and metal abrasion occurs which can only be removed with difficulty from the corresponding dosage forms. Ultrasound can also be used to produce emulsions. The disadvantage is that these methods are expensive because of the high energy input. High pressure homogenization or ultrasound for the production of parenteral emulsions for cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications are described in the literature. Int. J. Pharm. 163, 1998, 81; J. Pharm. Belg. 52, 1997, 110; J. Pharm. 82, 1993, 1069; J. Pharm. 83, 1994, 72; Pari and cosmetics. 10, 1994, 652; 3, 1995, 152; Pharm. Res. 12, 1995, 1273; SÖFW 9, 1994, 530.

Low-viscosity microemulsions for oral applications based on lecithin / ethanol / propylene glycol are described in WO 92/02207. There, the thickening to the microemulsion gel with gelatin as a water-soluble polymer is also described. The disadvantage for cosmetic applications is the lack of a cosmetic oil phase. Transparent oil-in-water emulsions containing lecithin thickened with gelatin are also described in FR 2618351. Transparency is achieved by aligning the refractive indices of water and oil phase. There is therefore no microemulsion here.

EP 406162 B1 describes a method for producing a nanoemulsion with triglycerides or fatty acid esters. On page 2, lines 36-43 and on page 3 lines 18-28, it is emphasized that the emulsifier lecithin should have a lamellar liquid-crystalline structure, which is then processed with a high-pressure homogenizer to form the nanoemulsion.

DE 3930928 C2 describes pharmaceutical formulations containing cyclosporin based on a microemulsion. In addition to cyclosporin, propylene glycol or glycofurol is advantageously used as the hydrophilic component as the microemulsion concentrate. On page 6 lines 7 to 12 it is stated that these concentrates represent O / W or W / O macroemulsions. The gel state which can advantageously be run through, which is not to be regarded as a macroemulsion, or the final formation of low-viscosity, lecithin-containing emulsions is not mentioned. Furthermore, short-chain ethers such as Transcutol and Glycofurol are not very suitable for cosmetic purposes due to their penetration.

DE 3302898 describes lecithin-containing systems containing fatty acids and protein condensates from a fatty acid, ethoxylated sterols. The choice of ingredients and the manufacturing process can only be used to a limited extent. DE 4410710 describes emulsions with lecithin and a hydrophobic co-emulsifier (W / O emulsifier). Low-viscosity (sprayable) emulsions containing O / W emulsifiers, W / O emulsifiers and phospholipids have not been described as advantageous.

DE 3129340 describes emulsions with lecithin and saponoside as emulsifiers, which are further stabilized by aloe juice. A generally applicable process without these substances is not described.

WO 0037042 describes a method for producing low-viscosity transparent lecithin-containing microemulsions. A process for the preparation of sprayable emulsions is not described.

Lecithin organogels are described in the literature. Colloid Polymer Science 268,

1990, 356; Colloid J. 58, 1996, 117; Colloid polym. Be. 268, 1990, 356; Int. J. Pharm. 137, 1996, 17; J. Phys. Chem. 92, 1988, 829; J. Pharm Sei. 81, 1992, 871; J. Contr.

Rel. 34, 1995, 53; Proced. Intern. Symp. Control. Rel. Bioact. Mater. 17, 1990, 421;

Progr. Colloid Polym. Be. 105, 1997, 204; Progr. Colloid Polym. Be. 106, 1997, 228;

Skin. Pharmacol. 9, 1996, 124.

These organogels are obtained by adding small amounts of water to a mixture of organic solvent and lecithin. Thereby arise from inverse

Micelles when water is added, cylinder-like water-filled micelles ("wormlike micelles") that loop together and thus explain the high viscosity of these mixtures. (Colloid Polym. Sci. 268, 1990, 356).

Strictly speaking, these lecithin gels are not microemulsion gels, since the dispersed phase is not in droplet form and, furthermore, there is no corresponding viscosity-increasing substance for the continuous phase. Furthermore, it is not described that these gels can also be obtained in the presence of an O / W emulsifier.

It is not described that these gels can be converted to other colloid chemical phases in the presence of water, e.g. O / W macroemulsions.

It is not described that in the presence of an O / W emulsifier gel-like

Preparations can be obtained which can be converted into low-viscosity, phospholipid-containing O / W emulsions by dilution with water.

It is not described that in the presence of an O / V emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier it is possible to obtain gel-like preparations which can be specifically controlled by Dilute with water and convert to low-viscosity, phospholipid-containing O / W emulsions.

The object of the invention was to avoid the disadvantages mentioned.

These tasks are solved according to the invention.

The invention relates to a process for the preparation of low-viscosity, in particular sprayable, phospholipid-containing emulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a water phase and an oil phase, which are composed essentially of non-volatile constituents, containing at least one

Phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one W / O emulsifier, can be obtained in such a way that part of the water phase with its constituents is added to the

Oil phase with its components, in particular the phospholipid and the O / W

Emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier is added, the phases being mixed with one another and a gel state being obtained which is characterized by further

Addition of the water phase is converted into a low-viscosity O / W emulsion, where the phases may contain further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients if desired.

The water phase is expediently metered or added dropwise to the oil phase until there is an increase in viscosity or a gel is formed, and the remaining water phase is then metered in. The phospholipid is advantageously dissolved in the oil phase (possibly in the heat). However, it is also possible to dissolve the phospholipid in the oil at room temperature. The O / W emulsifier can be added directly to the oil phase or only at the stage of gel formation or after production of the "pure" phospholipid organogel. The water phase can be added at room temperature or at elevated temperature.

The droplet diameters of the preparations according to the invention are preferably in the ranges mentioned at the beginning. “Leeithine” here also means the phospholipids, which include, for example, the following substances: phosphatidic acids, the actual Leeithine, cardolipins, lysophospholipids, lysolecithins, plasmalogens, phosphosphingolipids, sphingomyeline. Preferred substances are described below.

Phosphatidic acids are glycerol derivatives which are esterified in the 1-sn and 2-position with fatty acids (1-sn position: mostly saturated, 2-position: mostly mono- or polyunsaturated), on the other hand at atom 3-sn with phosphoric acid and by the general structural formula

O II CH ₂ - OC— R _!

R O - C - H

O

II CH ₂ - O— P— OH I OH marked.

In the phosphatidic acids found in human or animal tissue, the phosphate residue is mostly esterified with amino alcohols such as choline (lecithin = 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine) or 2-aminoethanol (ethanolamine) or L-serine (cephalin = 3-sn-phosphatidylethanolamine or sn -Phosphatidyl-L-serine), with myo-inositol to the phosphoinositides common in tissues [1- (3-sn-phosphatidyl) -D-myo-inositol], with glycerin to phosphatidylglycerols. Leeithine (= 3-sn-phosphatidylcholine) are particularly preferred.

Leeithine are due to the general structural formula

characterized, wherein R and R ² typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds represent.

Cardiolipins (1,3-bisphosphatidylglycerols) are phospholipids made from two phosphatidic acids linked via glycerol.

Lysophospholipids are obtained when an acyl residue is split off from phospholipids by phospholipase A (e.g. lysolecithins).

Lysophospholipids are characterized by the general structural formula

OII CH, - OC - R, I ^{2 1}

HO-C-HO

I II

CH ₇ - O— P— OH ² I

OH

Lysolecithins, for example, are characterized by the general structural formula

where R and R ^{2 are} typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

The phospholipids also include plasmalogens in which an aldehyde (in the form of an enol ether) is bound in the 1 position instead of a fatty acid; the O-1-sn-alkenyl verb corresponding to the phosphatidylcholines. z. B. are called phosphatidal cholines.

The basic structure of the phosphosphingolipids is based on sphingosine or phytosphingosin, which are characterized by the following structural formulas: CH ₂ OH CH ₂ OH

H ^ C ^ NH ₂ H ^ C ^ NH ₂

H - C - OH H ^ C - OH

_H - ^C ^ _C ^ H Hθ " ^C ^ _c - ^H

I I

(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃

(Sphingosine) (phytosphingosine)

Modifications of sphingolipids are characterized, for example, by the general basic structure

in which R ^ and R ₃ independently of one another represent saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, R _{2 is} selected from the group: hydrogen atom, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, sugar residues, phosphate groups esterified or unesterified with organic radicals, sulfate groups esterified or unesterified with organic radicals and Y represents either a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or another heterofunctional radical.

sphingophospholipids

RT and R ₃ represent alkyl radicals, R ₄ represents an organyl radical.

Sphingomyeline are organylphosphorylated sphingolipids of the type

Leeithine are particularly preferred phospholipids. Lecithin types to be used advantageously are selected from crude lecithins which have been deoiled and / or fractionated and / or spray dried and / or acetylated and / or hydrolyzed and / or hydrogenated. They are commercially available. Soy lecithins are preferred.

Phospholipids to be used advantageously according to the invention can be purchased, for example, under the trade names Phospholipon 25 or Phospholipon 90 (Nattermann), Emulmetik 120 (Lucas Meyer), Sternpur E (Stern), Sternpur P (Stern), Nathin 3KE (Stern), Phospholipon 90 H (Nattermann / Rhone-Poulenc), Lipoid S 100 (Lipoid).

In the presence of the O / W emulsifier and, if appropriate, the W / O emulsifier, novel gels, in which other colloid chemical phases are also present, can arise than in the "pure" lecithin organogels known in the literature, such as lamellar liquid crystals, cubic phases , bicontinuous microemulsion gels, O / W microemulsion gels, inverse hexagonal phases, hexagonal phases, inversely micellar phases.

All of these are characterized by an increase in viscosity, e.g. cream-like preparations are referred to here as "gels". When the water phase is further added to the gel, the viscosity decreases and a low-viscosity O / W emulsion is formed.

The intermediate gel formation according to the invention (i.e. the corresponding colloid chemical phase) and its targeted degradation by dilution with water (i.e. the conversion of the colloid chemical phase into another) enables the production of finely divided O / W emulsions. This makes it possible for the first time to use a large number of OΛV emulsifiers and W / O emulsifiers. Furthermore, the greater variability in the choice of O / W emulsifiers and W / O emulsifiers favors a greater variety of cosmetic oil phases. Furthermore, the intermediate gel formation results in hydrophilic, lipophilic and surface-active domains within the gel, so that active substances of different polarities can be solubilized much more easily in parallel, since the active substances voluntarily dissolve in the corresponding domain in accordance with their hydrophilicity / lipophilicity.

The following weight percentages, each based on the total weight of the preparations, are preferred for the modified organo-gels:

Phospholipid 0.1 - 50%

O / W emulsifier: 0.1-70%

W / O emulsifier 0.1-70%

Oil phase: 5 - 90%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-35% water * ad 100%

The weight ratio of phospholipid / (O / W emulsifier / W / O emulsifier) in the preparations according to the invention can vary, for example from 1:30 to 2: 1. The ratio of phospholipid / OW emulsifier is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1. The ratio of phospholipid / OW emulsifier is particularly preferably 1: 6 to 1: 1, 3. The ratio of (phospholipid + W / 0 emulsifier) to O / W emulsifier can vary, for example 1:30 to 2: 1, the ratio (phospholipid + W / O emulsifier) to O / W emulsifier is preferably 1: 6 to 1: 1, 3.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are emulsions of the oil-in-water type which comprise a discontinuous oil phase and a continuous water phase, optionally containing at least one W / O emulsifier - containing at least one phospholipid and containing at least one Q / W emulsifier the O / W emulsifier (s) is advantageously chosen or are selected from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-Ö - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl - or

Alkenyl radical and n represent a number from 10 to 50 of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols, the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or Alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 10 to 80 of the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 40, of the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO- ( -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80, of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO- ( -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (0) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of

10 to 80 represent the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50, - of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 100 the cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 50, the ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 150, the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -C0OH or their cosmetic or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkane or alkenoic acids and a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 comprising, for example of the sorbeth type, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -S0 ₃ -H on which these sulfates are based, with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R represent a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 50, the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) n-R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 10 to 80 of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number of 10 to 80 represent the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 10 to 80, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated tiger, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 80 of the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the cholesterol propoxylates with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 100 of the propoxylated triglycerides with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to

100 of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n represent a number from 3 to 50, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 50, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula RO-Xn-Ym-H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Represent alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another are numbers from 5 to 50, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently represent mutually branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another numbers from 5 to

100 represent the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-Xn-Ym-R ', where R and R' independently represent branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and each have either an oxyethylene group or one oxy propylene group and n and m independently of one another represent numbers from 5 to 100, the fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical, where X and Y are not identical are and each represent either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently of one another are numbers from 5 to 50, the polyglycerol methyl glucose ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or

Hydroxycarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 - 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms of the glycerol fatty acid citrates of the water-dispersible silicone emulsifiers - the polyglycerol esters

if desired containing one or more W / O emulsifiers, this W / O emulsifier being selected from the group of

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and π is a number from 1 to 10

the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30

- The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 20,

the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

where R and R 'are independent of each other branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number from 1 to 20,

- The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-C00 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (ö) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 40 .

- The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 40 of the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _π -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical and n is a number from 1 to 30,

the polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenoic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 10

cholesterol ethoxylates with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 10,

- The ethoxylated glycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 to 30

the ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation between 1 and 30,

- The monoglycerol ether of the type R-0-CH ₂ -C (H) 0H-CH ₂ 0H where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radical and

the monoglycerol ester of the type RC (0) OCH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OH where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or Represent alkenyl radical

the diglycerol ester of the type RC (0) OCH ₂ -C (H) OH-CH ₂ OC (0) R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number from 1 to 30 or represent

the polyglycerol mono- or di- or polyester, where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,

the pentaerythritol ester, the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals,

the propylene glycol ester, the fatty acids independently of one another being branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,

the sorbitan ester, where the fatty acids independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl residues,

the fatty alcohols R-OH and fatty acids RCOOH, where R represents a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical,

the silicone emulsifiers such as dimethicone copolyol, alkyl dimethicone copolyol (cetyl dimethicone copolyol), alkyl methicone copolyols, (lauryl methicon copolyol), octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides of methyl glucose esters, the fatty acids independently representing branched or unbranched alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or alkenyl radicals.

The total emulsifier content is preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is particularly advantageous if the O / W emulsifier or the O / W emulsifiers are selected or are selected from the group of fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical with 5-30 C

Atoms and n represent a number from 10 to 25 of the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols with HLB values of 11-16 of the polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula R-0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _π -R ', where R and R 'are independently branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n are a number from 10 to 25, the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -H , where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 25, of the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5-30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 50, of the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ - CH ₂ -0-) _n -C (O) -R \ where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals with 5-3 0 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 10 to 50, the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids with 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of ethoxylation between 3 and 40 - the ethoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 30 of the cholesterol ethoxylates with HLB values of 11-16, the ethoxylated triglycerides with HLB values of 11-16, of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or

Alkenyl radical with 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 10 to 20, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester based on branched or unbranched alkanoic or alkenic acids and having a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 80, for example of the sorbeth type, of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of these sulfates on which all general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number of 3 to 30 represent the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _π -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 30, - the polypropylene glycol ether the general formula

RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -0-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 40 represent the propoxylated wool wax alcohols with HLB values of 1 1 - 16, - of the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _π -H, where R is a branched or unbranched

Represent alkyl or alkenyl radicals with 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n a number from 10 to 40, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-R ', where R and R 'independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 30, of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) nC (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 5-30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 10 to 50, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty acids with 6 to 26 carbon atoms and a degree of propoxylation between 3 and 50 ^' - the propoxylated sorbitan esters with a degree of propoxylation of 3 to 80 of the cholesterol propoxylates with HLB values of 11 - 16, the propoxylated triglycerides with HLB Values of 1 1 - 16, the alkyl ether approx rbonic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n represent a number from 10 to 30, the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable cations, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 30. the polyglycerol methyl glucose ester of the type polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate - the glycerol fatty acid citrate of the type glyceryl stearate citrate the water-dispersible silicone emulsifier type bis PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 dimethicone + caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride (Abil Careinester 85) of the type polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 1-16.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (Steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (Steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (Steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - stearyl ether (Steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (21) stearyl ether (Steareth-21 )

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol 16) isostearyl ether (Iso steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) (isoceteth-7), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Iso-laureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetylstearyl ether (cetearethglycol-16) 17) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) - stearate, Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (δO) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate 20, polyethylene glycol glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also favorable to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate. Abil Care 85 can be selected as the silicone emulsifier.

The following optional W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or un branched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl linoleate, triglycerol diisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate,

Glyceryl mono-oleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate,

Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, methyl propanediol, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isobhenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol

Chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate,

Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate,

PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22-dodecyl glycol copolymer,

Methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, alkyl methicone copolyol, alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside, PEG-40-

Sorbitan perisostearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.

It is possible according to the invention to keep the total emulsifier content less than 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations according to the invention. It is preferred to keep the total content of emulsifiers less than 10% by weight, in particular less than 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Glycerol, chitosan, Fucpgel, 2-methyl-propanidol, lactic acid, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, polyethylene glycol, acids and their salts such as sodium pyrolidonecarboxylic acid, glycine can advantageously be used as skin moisturizers. Use hyaluronic acid, urea, sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium salts. Glycerin alone and in combination with one of the previously mentioned moisturizers is particularly advantageous.

It can be shown that skin-moistening ingredients containing phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity (sprayable) O / W emulsions have excellent properties for moisturizing, smoothing and reducing the flaky skin.

The following emulsifiers are used particularly advantageously. Ethoxylated fatty acid esters and fatty acid glycerides, in particular PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil isostearate PEG-45 palm kernel oil glycerides

Ethoxylated sorbitan esters, especially PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate PEG-20 sorbitan monooleate

Polyglycerol esters, especially polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate

Ethoxylated glycerol esters, in particular PEG-20 glyceryl laurate PEG-20 glyceryl steart

Fatty acid ethoxylates, in particular PEG-20 monostearate

Fatty alcohol ethoxylates, in particular

Ceteareth-12

Oleth- 15 The oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, iso-octyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisonoπanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl, ethyl-2-ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexyl Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Examples of advantageous are dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene glycol caprylate / caprate, di- C12-13 alkyl tartrate, caprylic / capric diglyceryl succinate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isonoanoate, cocoglyceride, mineral oil, hydrogenated, iso-cyclo-hexane, polydecylanocanoate, polydecylane squalene, C ₁₂ .ι ₅ alkyl benzoate and mixtures of these oil phases. Furthermore, waxes can also be part of the oil phase, such as, for example, methyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, Ca o-alkyl stearate, C _18-3 6-acid triglyceride. In such cases, the preparations according to the invention may also be obtained as micro-dispersions of solid wax particles. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

For the phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity (sprayable) O / W emulsions according to the invention, the following amounts by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations, are preferred:

Phospholipid: 0.01-10%, especially 0.1-5.0%

O / W emulsifier: 0.01-60%, in particular 0.1-10%

W / O emulsifier 0.01-60%, especially 0.1-10%

Oil phase: 0.01 - 50%, especially 0.1 - 30%

Additives for the oil phase: 0.01-20%, especially 0.1-15% additives for the water phase: 0.01-80%, especially 0.1-60%

Water ad 100%

The weight ratio phospholipid / (O / W emulsifier / W / O emulsifier) in the preparations according to the invention can vary, e.g. from 1:30 to 2: 1. The ratio of phospholipid / OW emulsifier is preferably 1:15 to 1: 1. The ratio of phospholipid / OW emulsifier is particularly preferably 1: 6 to 1: 1, 3. The ratio of (phospholipid + W / O emulsifier) to O / W emulsifier can vary, for example 1:30 to 2: 1, the ratio (phospholipid + W / O emulsifier) to O / W emulsifier is 1: 6 to 1: 1, 3.

The microemulsion gels according to the invention advantageously contain electrolytes, in particular one or more salts with the following anions: chlorides, furthermore inorganic oxo-element anions, of which in particular sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates. Electrolytes based on organic anions can also be used advantageously, for example lactates, acetates, benzoates, propionates, Tartrate, Citrate and others. Comparable effects can also be achieved with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and its salts.

Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as cations of the salts. There is no need to mention that only physiologically acceptable electrolytes should be used in cosmetics. On the other hand, special medical applications of the microemulsions according to the invention can, at least in principle, require the use of electrolytes, which should not be used without medical supervision.

Sodium and potassium chloride, sodium and potassium bromide, magnesium and calcium chloride, magnesium and calcium bromide, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Salt mixtures as they occur in the natural salt from the Dead Sea are also advantageous. All of these salts are beneficial because they stimulate endogenous lipid synthesis.

The concentration of the electrolyte or electrolytes should be, for example, approximately 0.1-10.0% by weight, particularly advantageously approximately 0.3-8.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparations described below can be phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity (sprayable) O / W emulsions according to the invention.

If the preparations according to the invention form the basis for cosmetic deodorants / antiperspirants, all common active ingredients can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example the layered silicates described in patent application DE-P 40 09 347, of which montmorillonite in particular , Kaolinite, llite, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the microemulsions according to the invention. Advantageous substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasane), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3.7.1 LTrimethyl 2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) and those described in patent publications DE-37 40 186, DE-39 38 140, DE-42 04 321, DE-42 29 707, DE-42 29 737, DE-42 37 081, DE-43 09 372, DE-43 24 219 described effective agents.

The customary antiperspirant active ingredients can likewise advantageously be used in the phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity O / W emulsions according to the invention, in particular astringents, for example basic aluminum chlorides.

The cosmetic deodorants according to the invention can be in the form of aerosols, that is to say from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations sprayable by a pump device, or in the form of liquid compositions which can be applied by means of roil-on devices, but also in the form of low-viscosity phospholipid-containing substances which can be applied from normal bottles and containers O / W emulsions.

Suitable blowing agents for cosmetic deodorants according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customary, known volatile, liquefied blowing agents, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Compressed air can also be used advantageously.

Of course, the person skilled in the art knows that there are non-toxic propellant gases per se which would in principle be suitable for the present invention, but which should nevertheless be dispensed with, in particular fluorochlorohydrocarbons (CFCs), because of their deliberate effect on the environment or other associated circumstances.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that when blowing agents which are soluble in the oil phase, for example conventional propane-butane mixtures, the phospholipid-containing, low-viscosity (sprayable) O / W emulsions according to the invention are not simply sprayed as aerosol droplets , but develop into fine-bubble, rich foams as soon as such systems loaded with such blowing agents experience pressure relief. Such post-foaming preparations are therefore also regarded as advantageous embodiments of the present invention with independent inventive activity.

When using blowing agents which are insoluble in the oil phase, the preparations according to the invention are sprayed as aerosol droplets.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active compound combinations according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UVA filter substance and / or at least one UVB filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to create cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 to 9% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic and / or dermatological purposes To provide preparations that protect the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as sunscreens.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( Siö ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides.

For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments can advantageously be superficial treated ("coated"), whereby, for example, an amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is to be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.

According to the invention, z. B. titanium dioxide pigments coated with octylsilanol. Suitable titanium dioxide particles are available under the trade name T805 from Degussa. Also particularly advantageous are Ti0 ₂ pigments coated with aluminum stearate, e.g. B. those available under the trade name MT 100 T from TAYCA.

Another advantageous coating of the inorganic pigments consists of dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), a mixture of fully methylated, linear siloxane polymers which are blocked at the end with trimethylsiloxy units. Zinc oxide pigments which are coated in this way are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

It is also advantageous to coat the inorganic pigments with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane, in particular dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units, and silica gel, which is also referred to as simethicone. It is particularly advantageous if the inorganic pigments are additionally coated with aluminum hydroxide or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2). Titanium dioxides coated with simethicone and alumina are particularly advantageous, the coating also being able to contain water. An example of this is the titanium dioxide available from Merck under the trade name Eusolex T2000.

An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bis-octyltriazole], which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are di-benzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the brand Parsol ^® 1789 and before Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain a plurality of UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [e.g. 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol )], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or its salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3 -bornylidene methyl) -benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, individually or in any combination with one another.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif

have, are advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention, for example that described in the European patent application EP 570 838 A1 nen s-triazine derivatives, the chemical structure of which by the generic formula

is reproduced, whereby

R represents a branched or unbranched CrC ^ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more dC ₄ alkyl groups, X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group, Ri represents a branched or unbranched Cι -C ₁₈ alkyl, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl, optionally substituted with one or more dC- ₄ - alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₈ -alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C _! -C ₄ - alkyl groups,

R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10, R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, a C -C ₂ -cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more Ci-Ci - ^{1 represents} alkyl groups when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched CrC ^ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C _r C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A is a branched or unbranched d-cis-alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ -

Represents cycloalkyl or aryl, optionally substituted with one or more dC ^ - alkyl groups, R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula

is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and under the trade name UVA SORB HEB is available from Sigma 3V.

Advantageous for the purposes of the present invention is a symmetrically substituted s-triazine, ^4,4, 4 "- (1, 3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2- ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein R, R ₂ and A ^ represent a wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonotone) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl ) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethyl carboxyl) - phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4 - (2-ethyl-carboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6 - (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazione, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3rd , 5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4-

(1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is the 2,2'-Me ethylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyfpropylj-phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

^■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

^■ 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine;

^■ esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

^■ esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

■ 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) - methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which, for example, under the

Trade name Parsol® SLX is available from Hoffmann La Röche.

■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. For example: “Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;

■ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof. Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI- Name Bisimidazylate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo

Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer; ^• Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimizazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or Triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI-

Name Bisimidazylate, which is available for example under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer. 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo -bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4 -di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-boronylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS.- No .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

A further light protection filter substance erfindcingsgemäß to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, obtainable (octocrylene) from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539th

It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to incorporate further UV-A and / or UV-B filters into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. the Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc ,

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from the GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as the Tricontayl PVP and the like.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of Titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide. The amounts given for the above combinations can be used.

An astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, advantageous active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress.

According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications are used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional antioxidants. It is advantageous to use antioxidants as the only class of active ingredient, for example when cosmetic or dermatological application is in the foreground, such as combating the oxidative stress on the skin. However, it is also advantageous to provide the preparations according to the invention with one or more antioxidants if the preparations are to serve another purpose, e.g. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, ß-carotene, Lycopiπ) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cy - stone, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, himinath) in their low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-Hy droxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid , Linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (Vitamin A - palmitate) and konyferylbenzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ^ selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stiibenoxide, trans Stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Water-soluble antioxidants can be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

An astonishing property of the preparations according to the invention is that they are very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin against oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to derive their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:

Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheaply the vitamin B ^ the vitamin B _{12 and} the vitamin D. _{1 (} but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), especially gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglan- dine, thymol, camphor, Extracts or other products of vegetable and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit ^® and Neocerit ^® .

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin should serve.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

The active ingredient (s) are furthermore advantageously selected from the group which comprises catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as, for example, the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). Their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or Catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins are a group of compounds which are to be regarded as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman -3,5,7-triol) Also epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Plant extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec, especially the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) -Epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

^'Some of the more important flavones which also preferably can be used in inventive preparations are listed in the table below:

OH substitution positions

2 '3' 4 '

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z to Z _{7 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ^ to Ze are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the Group of the mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly _! , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly _{1 (} Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be advantageous It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl radicals.

Z _t to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure door

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

where Gly ^ Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously, if appropriate. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to choose the flavone glycosides from the group α-glucosyl rutin, α-glucosyl myrcetin, α-glucosyl iso-quercitrin, α-glucosyl iso-quercetin and α-glucosyl-quercitrin. According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Also advantageous according to the invention are naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (S'.δJ-trihydroxy ^ '- methoxyflavanon ^ -rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (S.S '^'. Δy-Pentahydroxyflyvon-S-rutinosid, Quercetin-3-rutinosid, Sophorin, Birutan, Rutabion, Taurutin, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-Di-hydroxy-3 ', 4 ', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3', 4 ', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy- -L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), dihydrorobinetin

(3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3', 4 ', 5,7- Tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomareϊn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (ß-D glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredient (s) from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bio-quinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are classified as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or according to the number of C- Atoms referred to as U-5, U-10, U- 15, etc. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Q10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are named accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives, phsophocreatine are also preferred active substances in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate and creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and the derivatives esterified on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols.

Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula OW

C-R /

0

I

(H ₃ C) ₃ N - CH ₂ - C - CH ₂ - COO-

H where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It can also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Further advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned which can be used in the preparations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting. The active ingredients can be used individually or in any combination with one another.

Active substances can be contained in the preparations in the amounts of 0.0001-25% by weight, preferably 0.001-20% by weight, in particular 0.01-10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Although the use of hydrophilic active substances is of course also favored according to the invention, a further advantage of the preparations according to the invention is that the high number of very finely divided droplets makes especially oil-soluble or lipophilic active substances biologically available with particularly great effectiveness.

It is also advantageous to select the active substances from the group of refatting substances, for example purcellin oil, Eucerit and Neocerit. It is also possible and possibly advantageous to add detergent surfactants to the preparations according to the invention. Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or water-free or anhydrous cleaning agent concentrates intended for aqueous cleaning can contain cationic, anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example conventional soaps, for example sodium fatty acid salts, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkylbenzenesulfonates, sulfoacetates, sulfobetaine Sarcosinates, amidosulfobetanes, sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinic acid half-esters, alkyl ether carboxylates, protein fatty acid condensates, alkyl betanes and amidobetaones, fatty acid alkanolamides, polyglycol ether derivatives.

Cosmetic preparations, which are cosmetic cleaning preparations for the skin, can be in liquid or semi-solid form, for example as gels. They preferably contain at least one anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The surface-active substance can preferably be present in the cleaning preparations in a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally electrolytes and auxiliaries, as are usually used therefor. The ^'surface active agent loading can vorzugt present in a concentration between 1 and 50 wt .-% in the cleansing preparations, based on the total weight of the preparations. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts, for example, are advantageous to use.

In addition to the aforementioned surfactants, the preparations according to the invention for cleaning the hair or skin contain water and, if appropriate, the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, plant extracts , Vitamins, active ingredients and the like. In spite of their oil content, the preparations according to the invention surprisingly have very good foaming, high cleansing power and have a highly regenerative effect on the general skin condition. In particular, the preparations according to the invention have a skin-smoothing effect, reduce the feeling of dryness of the skin and make the skin supple.

If the preparations according to the invention are to be used for hair care, they can contain the usual constituents, usually for example film-forming polymers. Such polymers with at least partially quaternized nitrogen groups (hereinafter referred to as “film formers”) are preferably those which are selected from the group of substances which, according to the INCI nomenclature (International Nomenclature Cosmetic | ngredient), has the name “ Polyquaterium ,, wear, for example:

Polyquaternium-2 (Chemical Abstracts No. 63451-27-4, e.g. Mirapol® A-15) Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of the acrylamide and the ß-methacryloxyethyl-trimethylammonium methosulfate, CAS No. 26006-22-4)

Polyquaternium-6 (homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, CAS No. 26062-79-3, e.g. Merquat® 100

Polyquaternium-7 N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propen-1-aminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS no. 26590-05-6, e.g. Merquat® S Polyquaternium-10 Quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, CAS no. 53568-66-4, 55353-19-0, 54351-50-7, 68610-92-4, 81859-24-7, e.g. Celquat® SC-230M, Polyquaternium-11 vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer / di- ethyl sulfate reaction product, CAS no. 53633-54-8, e.g. Gafquat® 755N Polyquaternium-16 vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolinium methochloride copolymer, CAS No. 29297-55-0, e.g. Luviquat® HM 552 Polyquatemium-17 CAS No. 90624-75-2, e.g. Mirapol® AD-1 Polyquaternium-19 Quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol Polyquaternium-20 water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether Polyquaternium-21 polysiloxane-polydimethyl-dimethylammonium acetate copolymer, for example Abil® B 9905

Polyquaternium-22 dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, CAS no.

53694-7-0, e.g. Merquat® 280 polyquaternium-24 polymer quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose, reaction product with an epoxy substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, CAS no. 107987-23-5, e.g. Quatrisoft®

LM-200 polyquatemium-28 vinyl pyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride-

Copolymer, e.g. Gafquat® HS-100

Polyquaternium-29 e.g. Lexquat® CH Polyquaternium-31 CAS no. 136505-02-7, e.g. Hypan® QT 100 Polyquaternium-32,, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -Ethanami- nium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS no. 35429-19-7 Polyquaternium-37 CAS-No. 26161-33-1 cetyl trimethyl ammonium salts such as CTAB, CTAC.

Preparations according to the invention for hair care advantageously contain 0.01-5% by weight of one or more film formers, preferably 0.1-3% by weight, in particular 0.2-2% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. Such embodiments of the preparations according to the invention care for hair damaged or damaged by environmental influences or prevent such environmental influences. Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention give the hairstyle loose fullness and firmness without being tacky.

Accordingly, the preparations according to the invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as a skin protection emulsion, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient lotion, day or night emulsion, etc.

The preparations according to the invention also make an excellent contribution to smoothing the skin, in particular if they are provided with one or more substances which promote smoothing of the skin. It may be possible and advantageous to use the preparations according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations. Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations. The transitions between pure cosmetics and pure pharmaceuticals are fluid. According to the invention, all classes of active substances are in principle geeginet as pharmaceutical active substances, lipophilic active substances being preferred. Examples are: antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids, vitamins, etc.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, virucides, perfumes, anti-foaming substances, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used particularly advantageously.

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids, alcohols, diols or low C number polyols, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, percentages or parts relate to the weight of the preparations or the respective mixture. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Phosphatidylcholine (Phospholipon 90, Rhone-Poulenc / Nattermann) was used as lecithin in the examples.

example 1

Facial Care Product

Wt .-%

Lecithin 1,800

PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 5,200

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 2

Anti-acne lotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000 Example 3

Hair Tonic

Wt% lecithin 3,000

Oleth-15 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 4

Body lotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 5

Basis for shaving cream

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 6

Aftershave lotion

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q p.

Water ad

100000

Example 7

Facial cleansing water

Wt% lecithin 2,000

Decaglyeeryl monolaurate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 8

Shower oil, low foaming

Wt% lecithin 3,500

PEG-20 glyceryl laurate 3,500

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 9

Pump sprayer for deodorant / AT products wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 monostearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 10

Cleansing emulsion against oily skin

Wt% lecithin 3,000

PEG-20 glyceryl stearate 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 11

Refreshing preshave lotion wt .-%

Lecithin 4,000 Ceteareth-12 3,000 Glycerin 5,000 Dicaprylyl Ether 7,000 Preservation q.s. Water ad

100000

Example 12

Abschminklotion

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 13

Basis for the solubilization of perfume fragrances (perfume atomizers)

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 14

Basis for the treatment of the scalp

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 15

Basis for a sun protection spray

% By weight lecithin 1,000

Polyglyceryl-10 stearates 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 16

Basis for a body spray

Wt .-%

Lecithin 1,000

Oleth-15 6,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad 100,000

Example 17

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

Oleth-15 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 18

Tüchertränkmedium

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dioctylcyclohexane 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 19

Wt .-%

Lecithin 3,000

PEG-45 palm kernel oil Glycerides 4,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 20

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Octyl dodecanol 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 21

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 22

Wt .-%

Lecithin 2,000

PEG-20 Sorbitan Monooleat 5,000

Glycerin 5,000

Cetearyl isononanoate 7,000

Conservation q.s.

Water ad

100000

Example 23

Shower emulsion

Wt% lecithin 0.500

Lauryl ether sulfate (25%) 40,000

Glycerin 5,000

Dicaprylyl ether 7,000

Sodium chloride 7,000.

Water ad

100000

Example 24

Shower base

Wt .-%

Lecithin 0.870

Lauryl ether sulfate (25%) 69,600

Glycerin 8,600

Dicaprylyl ether 8,700

Sodium chloride 12,230

Claims

claims:

1. A process for the preparation of low-viscosity, in particular sprayable, phospholipid-containing emulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a

Water phase and an oil phase, which essentially consist of low volatility

Components are composed, containing at least one phospholipid and at least one oil-in-water emulsifier and optionally at least one

W / O emulsifier, obtainable in such a way that part of the water phase with its components to the oil phase with its components, in particular the phospholipid and

O / W emulsifier and optionally the W / O emulsifier is given, the

Phases are mixed with one another and a gel state is obtained which is converted into a low-viscosity O / W emulsion by further addition of the water phase, the phases optionally containing further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the phospholipid used are phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylcholine, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, or in combination.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier is chosen as the O / W emulsifier.

4. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as O / W emulsifier ceteth-15, ceteth-16, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-16, isoceteth-20, isosteareth-20, steareth-20, oleth-15, laureth -15, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-25 stearate, PEG-20 oleate, PEG-20 sorbitan stearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan oleate,

Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, PEG-30 cholesteryl ether, PEG-60 evening primrose glyceride, bis PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 dimethicone + caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride (Abil Care 85), PEG-45 palm kernel oil glyceride, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glycerol isostearate PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 dimethicone + Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride selected or combinations of the above can be selected.

5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a combination of at least one OΛ / V emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier is selected

6. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a combination of at least one polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier is selected.

7. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one non-ethoxylated O / W emulsifier is chosen as the O / W emulsifier.

8. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as the non-ethoxylated O Λ / emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglycerol-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 laurate or combinations of the aforementioned are selected.

9. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a combination of at least one non-ethoxylated O / W emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier is chosen.

10. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a combination of at least one polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier and a W / O emulsifier is selected.

11. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that as W / O emulsifier glyceryl stearate, glycerol isostearate, glyceryl linoleate, diglycerol isostearate, triglycerol diisostearate, sorbitan isostearate, propylene glycol isostearate,

Propylene glycol stearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, steareth-2, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl caprinate, glyceryl caprylate, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, PEG-5-cholesteryl ether PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose-distearate, methacrylate-22-methoxy-glycodeglyp, methacrylate-22, Dodecyl glycol copolymer, methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone Copolyols, alkyl methicon copolyols, alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside can be used.

12. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that one or more skin moisturizers such as glycerol, chitosan, Fucogel, 2-methylpropanediol, polyethylene glycol, lactic acid, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, acids such as sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, hyaluronic acid, amino acids and the corresponding salts of Acids, urea, electrolytes, preferably salts of inorganic and / or organic acids, especially sodium, potassium,

Magnesium and calcium salts can be used.