WO2003101407A1

WO2003101407A1 - Use of honeysuckle extracts for producing cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and/or for protecting sensitive skin

Info

Publication number: WO2003101407A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/005214
Authority: WO
Inventors: Stefan Gallinat; Jeannine Immeyer; Ludger Kolbe; Christopher Mummert; Claudia Mundt; Uwe Schoenrock; Kirsten Venzke
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2002-06-03
Filing date: 2003-05-17
Publication date: 2003-12-11
Also published as: DE10224456A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of honeysuckle extracts for producing cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care, and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and/or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.

Description

description

Use of Jelängerjelieber flower extract for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory

Skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive, determined skin

The present invention relates to the use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.

The invention also relates to the use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of skin damage and / or negative skin conditions with one or more appearances from the group of

Deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages,

^■ inflammatory skin conditions, even including atopic eczema, polymorphic Lichtder- Matose, sunburn, psoriasis, vitiligo,

^Skin conditions characterized by sensitive, itchy or irritated skin,

^■ Skin conditions, characterized by irritated skin caused by shaving and

^■ Conditions of the skin appendages, characterized by scaling of the hair.

The invention further relates to the use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract and preparations containing Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for immunostimulation of the skin, advantageously also for immunostimulation in the sense of treating injured skin, in particular for treating wounds.

Furthermore, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "stinging potential".

PAWI \ 2001 \ 201095A The problem of "sensitive skin" affects a growing number of adults and children. Sensitive skin is a combination of various symptoms, such as hyper-reactive and intolerant skin. But atopic skin can also be subsumed under it. These skin conditions are often not entirely correct by those affected , referred to as "allergic" skin. Although an allergic disease can lead to symptoms of sensitive skin, the appearance of "sensitive skin" is not limited to allergy sufferers.

The skin, especially the epidermis, as a barrier organ of the human organism, is particularly exposed to external influences. According to today's scientific understanding, the skin represents an immunological organ, which as an immunocompetent peripheral compartment plays its own role in inductive, effective and regulative immune processes of the whole organism.

The epidermis is richly equipped with nerves and nerve end devices such as Father Pacini lamellar bodies, Merkel cell neurite complexes and free nerve endings for sensation of pain, cold, heat and itching.

In people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, a neurosensory phenomenon called "stinging" (<engl.> "To sting" = injure, burn, pain) can be observed. This "sensitive skin" differs fundamentally from "dry skin" with thickened and hardened hom layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" to sensitive skin are reddening, tension and burning of the skin as well as itching.

Itching in atopic skin and itching in skin diseases are to be regarded as a neurosensory phenomenon.

"Stinging" phenomena can be regarded as disorders to be treated cosmetically. On the other hand, severe itching, especially severe itching in the case of atopy, can also be described as a more serious dermatological disorder. Typical disturbing neurosensory phenomena associated with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" are reddening of the skin, tingling, tingling, tension and burning of the skin and itching. They can be caused by stimulating environmental conditions such as massage, tenside effects, weather influences such as sun, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, heat radiation and UV radiation, such as the sun.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977) P.J. Frosch and A.M. Kligman describe a method for estimating the "stinging potential" of topically administered substances. As positive substances, e.g. Lactic acid and pyruvic acid are used. When measured by this method, however, amino acids, in particular glycine, were also found to be neurosensory active (such substances are called "Stinger").

According to previous knowledge, such a sensitivity to very specific substances occurs individually in different ways. This means that a person who experiences "stinging effects" when in contact with a substance is very likely to experience it repeatedly with each subsequent contact. Contact with other "Stingers" can just as easily be without any reaction.

Many more or less sensitive people also suffer from erythematous skin symptoms when using some deodorant or antiperspirant preparations.

Erythematous skin symptoms also occur as a side effect with certain skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical rash in the appearance of acne is regularly more or less red.

If the skin is exposed to the sun or an artificial radiation source for too long, then after a latency period of 2 to 3 hours, depending on the sensitivity of the person, a reddened skin against the unexposed skin, the erythema solar, develops. In the sunburn that arises in this way, a distinction is made between ^■ 1st degree: erythema (reddening, feeling of warmth) subsides after 2 to 3 days and disappears with increasing frequency

Pigmentation, ■ 2nd degree: blistering on the skin forms blisters with burning and itching, the epidermis is pushed off flatly

3rd degree: cell damage there is profound cell damage, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis is rejected over a large area. The 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called solar dermatitis.

The formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength. The erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. While the UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day) or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, regardless of the time of year, time of day or geographical factors. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the layer on the back.

It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.

Since the contributions of the various wavelength ranges of UV light to light-induced skin changes have not been completely clarified, it is increasingly assumed today that preventive protection against both UV-A and UV-B rays, for example by applying light protection filter substances in the form a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the skin is of fundamental importance. Cosmetic or dermatological agents, applied to the skin in a thin layer, should protect them from the negative effects of solar radiation. Sunbathing is perceived by most people as pleasant, and the adverse consequences are initially ignored. However, awareness of the negative effects of excessive sun exposure has developed in recent years, which is why more and more protective sunscreens are used.

The sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the effect of light. In addition to the effects of UV rays already described, the subsequent reaction of the skin also leads to reduced sebum production and drying of the skin. The so-called aftersun preparations are used to treat the skin, and their use is generally recommended after each exposure to the sun. These are generally emulsions or aqueous hydrogels which, in addition to the usual moisturizing substances, can also contain special active ingredients, such as, for example

^■ anti-inflammatory and cooling substances,

^■ locally anesthetic substances and / or

^■ disinfectants to prevent possible skin infections.

Are used for. B. derived from plants anti-inflammatory or anti-inflammatory agents such as azulene and bisabolol (chamomile), glycyrrhizin (licorice root), hamamelin (witch hazel) or total extracts, for. B. from aloe vera or chamomile. These show good results with lighter forms and localized erythema reactions. The same applies to creams with a high content of essential oils or panthenol.

The prior art lacks preparations which are sustainable and long-lasting, but also over long periods of time in the treatment, care and prophylaxis of diverse skin conditions, characterized by sensitive, sensitive, vulnerable and / or manifestations of the skin which differ from the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin Skin, are effective. Preparations which have an anti-inflammatory effect in addition to the skin-care effect are advantageous here.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, active ingredients and preparations containing such active ingredients should be made available for cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "stinging".

Furthermore, such active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be made available which can be used for immune stimulation of the skin, advantageously also for immune stimulation in the sense of the effect promoting wound healing.

According to the invention, the shortcomings of the prior art are eliminated by using Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection in the case of sensitive, determined dry skin.

When using cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract, an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - is possible. Cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract also serve, surprisingly, to soothe sensitive or irritated skin.

Jelangerjelieber bleed extract has already been used for the external treatment of skin irritation (Kim K. Y .; Gale Encyclopedia of Alternative Medicine; Honeysuckle), but the oral use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract has always been in the foreground (Kim K. Y .; Gale Encyclopedia of Alternative Medicine; Honeysuckle). For example, infusions of the flowers of the Jelängerjelieber plant in cough, catarrh and asthma and syrup preparations from the flowers in lung and spleen diseases (Illustrated Herbai; Honeysuckle).

Jelangerjelieber bleed extract is obtained from the flowers of the Lonicera caprifolium plant (Jelängerjelieber, garden honeysuckle). The plant contains natural antibiotics and salicylic acid. In contrast to the strongly sweet-smelling flowers, the other medicinally used parts of the plant are bitter because they contain bitter substances; the saponine strain, the leaves tannins and the flowers inositols. Infusions of the leaves are laxative, but also anti-spastic. For this reason, these infusions are used in the treatment of asthma. When colds start, leaves of Jelängerjelieber in oil are used. The vasodilatory effect of this preparation increases blood flow to the Dennis. The skin is well supplied with blood and the feeling of cold subsides. The ingredients of the flowers are mostly extracted in infusions. They are used for cough, catarrh and asthma; Syrup preparations from the flowers are generally used for lung and spleen diseases. In addition to these predominantly internal applications, Jelängerjelieber extracts are also used for the external treatment of skin irritation and skin infections.

From the previous uses of the flowers of the Jelanger Jelieber for the preparation of infusions and syrups for oral use, it was not foreseeable even for the person skilled in the art that Jelanger Jelieber bleed extract in the use according to the invention is equally outstandingly suitable for anti-inflammatory and skin care. Especially in the area of skin care of physiological skin conditions and for the treatment and prophylaxis of disturbed and atypical skin conditions, i.e. However, the use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract is new due to age and disease-related skin conditions. The use of Jelangerjelieber blood extract in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations is particularly advantageous in particular for certain erythema diseases and other skin diseases with inflammatory courses

The Jelangerjelieber bleed extract is advantageously used in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, with a content of 0.0005-50.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-20.0% by weight, particularly advantageously 0.1-3.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, for cosmetic purposes To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin. Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol ^® 1789 brand and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also known as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:

where R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a single hydrogen atom. This is particularly preferred 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ^I , 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid- tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone) , which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula

is reproduced, whereby

R represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC alkyl groups,

X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,

Ri is a branched or unbranched CrCι ₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which

A represents a branched or unbranched CrC ^ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C _r

C - alkyl groups, R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10, R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched CrC ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more CC - Represents alkyl groups when X represents the NH group, and a branched or unbranched CC ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more CC ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, a Ammonium group or a group of formula

means in which

A represents a branched or unbranched C 1 -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C.

C - alkyl groups, R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10 when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly advantageous UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula

is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diocylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

The European patent application 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used advantageously and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein Ri, R ₂ and Ai represent a wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2 -hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6 - (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', ^1, 1', 3 ', ^5, 5' 5 _'l Heptamethylsiloxy- 2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl- 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA Chemical GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked. The UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

»3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;

■ esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

■ esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

■ as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

^■ salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;

^■ sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 and is characterized by the following structure:

It can also be of considerable advantage to use polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to incorporate further UV-A and / or UV-B filters into cosmetic or dermatological preparations, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

It is advantageous according to the invention to add the molar ratio of the substances mentioned under (a) and (b) in the range from 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, particularly preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 choose.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to use cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for cosmetic or dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention, customary antioxidants can be used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, Penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, biirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols , Catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene - hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakharzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. Z nO, ZnSO) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances ,

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract is carried out in the usual way, namely in such a way that the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract the affected skin is applied.

Jelangerjelieber bleed extract can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the type water-in-oil (W / O) or of the type oil-in-water (OW), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the type water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for example in the form of a Creams, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain, for example, fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are usually used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to extract Jelangerjelieber bleed into aqueous systems. or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions are usually inconceivable without the customary auxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, deodorizing substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring effect, thickeners, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common constituents a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or more medicaments in an effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law) for a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (Si0 ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals, like mixtures of such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous within the meaning of the present invention, although not mandatory, if the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that they have been treated to be water-repellent on the surface. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are provided with a thin hydrophobic layer by methods known per se.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) sSi-R '-> n TiO ₂ (surface)

is generated, n and m are ^" stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic residues. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic micropigments, are to be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally classified according to Art and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups: Anionic surfactants,

■ cationic surfactants,

Amphoteric surfactants and

■ non-ionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X- (at pH = 2) X- = any anion, eg CI ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^' B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate 6. Alaninate

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium C ₁₂ . ₁₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium and sodium _C12 - ₁ 3 pareth,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can be also preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzene zyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Benzyldimethylstea- rylammoniumchlorid, also alkyltrialkylammonium, such as for example Ce tyltrimethylammoniumchlorid or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyce desters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides and cocoglycoside. 6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters

8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can be present in the preparations according to the invention in a concentration between 1 and 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

■ Mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

^■ alkyl benzoates;

■ Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stylate, 2-ethylhexyl paletate, Octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of C ₁₂ are particularly advantageous. _15- alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ -i ₅ alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ . -, _5- Alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxyl units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R-ι - R (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), m can assume values from 2 - 200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ - R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4), n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (for example decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and those of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to choose silicone oils of a similar constitution to the compounds described above, the organic side chains of which are derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglycery 1-4-1 sostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether , Diethy- glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore alcohols of low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions particularly advantageously contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of gums, polyaccharides, celulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group. Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.

The use of derivatized gums such as e.g. Hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Vegegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as e.g. Stearylalkonium hectorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

The polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates) b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkolol amide polyglycols))

The anionic emulsifiers include a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate) b) fatty alcohol sulfates c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

The cationic emulsifiers include a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, e.g. Distearyldimonium Chloride

The amphoteric emulsifiers include a) alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids b) betaines, sulfobetaines c) imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, which include beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and poiypropoxylated products, for example:

^■ the fatty alcohol ethoxylates

^■ ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,

^■ polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',

The fatty acid ^ethoxylates of the general formula - R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,

^■ the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula

^■ R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R \ the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of the ethoxylated sorbitan esters of cholesterol ethoxylates of the ethoxylated triglycerides of alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30, the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid esters, the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-R ' , the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H, the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters of the propoxylated Sorbi Tan esters of the cholesterol propoxylates of the propoxylated triglycerides of the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH of the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ on which these sulfates are based -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H of the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX “-Y _m -H, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula

RO-Xn-YπrR ', the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula - R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',

The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula

R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 14.5- 15.5 if the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:

Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) - stearyl ether (Steareth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20 .

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20), Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17 ) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),

Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) - cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:

Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate , Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,

Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate , Polyethylene glycol (20) oleate The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides (evening primrose = evening primrose)

It is also advantageous to use the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl capethylene / caprinate 20, glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glycery, lisostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also advantageous to choose the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (2Ö) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C - Atoms, diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms and sorbitan esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl stearate Glycerylmonoiso-, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglycerylmono- isostearate, propylene glycol caprylate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, sorbitan, sorbitan, sorbitan monocaprylate, Sorbitanmonoisooleat, sucrose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.

, Examples O / W cream

, Examples O / W cream

, Examples W / O emulsions

Examples W / O emulsions

See examples of HDDispersions

, Example (gel cream)

7.Example (W / O cream)

Claims

claims:

1. Use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of sensitive skin and / or for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of a negative change in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin.

2. Use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to claim 1 for the treatment, care and prophylaxis of the skin damage and / or negative skin conditions with one or more appearances from the group of

Skin conditions characterized by sensitive, itchy or irritated skin,

^■ Skin conditions, characterized by irritated skin caused by shaving and

■ Conditions of the skin appendages, characterized by scaling of the hair.

3. Use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to claim 1 and / or 2 for immune stimulation of the skin, including immune stimulation in the treatment and care of broken skin, in particular for the treatment of wounds.

4. Use of Jelangerjelieber bleed extract for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, characterized by a very low "stinging potential", for the treatment and care of sensitive, sensitive and vulnerable skin.

5. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that Jelangerjelieber bleed extract is used in whole or in part in the form of its components. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one or more of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that Jelangerjelieber bleed extract is used, with a content of 0.0005-50.0% by weight, preferably 0.01-20.0 % By weight, particularly advantageously 0.1-3.0% by weight, correspondingly, based on the total weight of the composition.