WO2004026222A2

WO2004026222A2 - Compositions which are used to care for skin suffering from a hormonal imbalance and which contain one or more resveratrol oligomers, particularly $g(e)-viniferin, and/or certain derivatives thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2004026222A2
Application number: PCT/FR2003/002755
Authority: WO
Inventors: Alain Fructus
Original assignee: Af Consulting
Priority date: 2002-09-20
Filing date: 2003-09-19
Publication date: 2004-04-01
Also published as: AU2003283474A1; AU2003283474A8; FR2844714A1; WO2004026222A3; FR2844714B1

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions which are used to care for skin suffering from a hormonal imbalance and which contain one or more resveratrol oligomers, particularly ε-viniferin, and/or certain derivatives thereof. Hormonal imbalances have negative effects on the condition of the skin, nails, hair, lips, external genital organs, oral mucous membranes, and the menopause essentially causes relatively significant hormonal imbalances. Products containing those hormones which the skin lacks have been developed solely in the pharmaceutical field as said hormones are prohibited for use in cosmetics. Non-steroid phytohormones have also been used, but most research with said products has been carried out by means of oral treatment. There has been no very explicit research relating to topical treatments. Retinoids represent another category of molecules which are used to treat the cutaneous symptoms of hormonal imbalances but retinoid acid is prohibited in cosmetics as it is teratogenic and extremely irritant. However, research has been carried out, and patents issued, relating to products based on a stilbene, namely Resveratrol. A test performed on the skin of post-menopausal women, non-substituted, shows that ε-viniferin (a dimer of Resveratrol) and a vegetable extract containing same produce hormonal and retinoid effects on the deficient skin. This type of activity has never been described before. The invention relates to cosmetic products, pharmaceutical products and food supplements which are intended to prevent and combat the negative effects caused by a hormonal imbalance affecting the skin and the appendages thereof. The inventive compositions contain at least one Resveratrol oligomer and/or one derivative and/or one vegetable extract containing same.

Description

Title of the invention: Compositions for skin care undergoing a hormonal imbalance, and containing one or more oligomers of Resveratrol, in particular rε-N iferine and / or some of their derivatives.

The present invention relates to cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions intended to prevent and combat the negative effects of a hormonal imbalance in the skin and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the lips, and / or the external genitalia, and / or the oral mucous membranes, hormonal imbalance due to age and / or to a pathology.

These compositions are characterized in that they contain one or more oligomers of Resveratrol, and more particularly Pε-VMferine, and / or the glucosides and / or the corresponding esters of these oligomers and / or the natural extracts containing them. Hormonal imbalances exert certain negative effects on the condition of the skin, nails, hair, lips,: dryness, thinning of the dermis and epidermis, fine lines and wrinkles, yellow and brittle nails, weakened hair, gingivitis , for example at the time of menopause. Menopause in essence generates more or less significant hormonal imbalances. Many bibliographic reviews deal with the subject, for example: "Skin and Hormones" by Dr. JJ. Legrand in Les Nouvelles Esthétiques of November 1990 (pages 6 to 8), "Hormones and skin aging" by P. Mauvais-Jarvis and Bruno de Lignières at the Congress of the French Society of Cosmetology held in Blois in 1988 (pages 11 to 23 of the report), "Hormones and skin aging" by Pr.M. Faure, in Abstract Dermato-N ° 443-20 February 2001, pages 11 and 12, "Ovarian hormones and skin aging" B.de Lignères, Gynecol.Obstet. (l 991) 86,451 -4. Apart from menopause which is physiological, pathologies can manifest themselves, such as hyperandrogenism, with also negative manifestations on the skin and its appendices (see on this subject the Thematic Day held in Lyon on May 23, 1997 and the report published in Abstract Dermato N ° 334, week of October 27, 1997, pages 11 to 18). Naturally, skin product manufacturers for the care thought to introduce in their preparations hormones that are lacking in the skin, for example for ^"îémmes postmenopausal not receiving hormone replacement therapy or to supplement these treatments. The clinical tests have been carried out: "Treatment of aging symptoms in perimenopausal females ith ostrogen compounds. A pilot study" JB Schmidt et Al, Maturitas, 1994 Nov, 20: 1, 25-30, "Effect of a conjugated ostrogen (Premarin) cream on aging facial cream. A comparative study with a placebo cream "Creidi P. et Al., Maturitas, 1994 Oct, 19: 3, 211-23. But these hormones are not authorized in cosmetic products and can therefore only be developed in pharmaceutical products, of which it is known that the development time is very long and the cost very high.

The manufacturers then turned to non-steroid phytohormones which are found in certain plants: they are essentially isoflavones such as Genistein and Diadezin and their glucosides which are found for example in soybeans, the yam, and the red clover. Extracts are commercially available, such as "Lipobelle Soyaglycon" from the Arnaud Group or "Isoflavones de soja" from Greentech. However, few studies have been published on the benefits of isoflavones on the skin. We can cite those of J.Franchi: "Studies of the properties of isoflavones on dermal cells in in vitro culture" IH ^th National Congress of Phyto-aromatherapy, organized by the Mediterranean Association of Phytotherapy and Medicinal Plants, Montpellier, 15-16 September 2001, studies that relate to the dermis only. Most of the other studies relate to food supplements in hormone replacement therapy (Cassidy et al., 1994, Nochols et al., 1995, Petrakis et al., 1996, Pansini et al., 1997, Porter et al. , 1998, Hargraves et al., 1999). Retinoids represent another category of molecules used to treat skin symptoms of hormonal imbalances: retinoic acid is prohibited in cosmetics because it is teratogenic and it is very irritating, retinol and its esters are widely used, but chemically unstable and much less active .

Stilbenes are another class of biomolecules with a number of properties and are quite common in plants. The best known and most studied is Resveratrol, which is 3,4,5 '-hydroxy-stilbene, and which is found in variable quantities in a large number of plants. A number of these plants also synthesize oligomers of Resveratrol, defined as oligostilbenes when they have a stilbene bond, and stilbenoids when stilbene double bonds are involved in a condensation reaction. The following compounds may be cited as examples: ε- Viniferine, Ampelopsin A and C, Amurensins I, J, K, L, and M, Balanocarpol, Betulifol A and B, Canaliculatol, Caraganaphenol A, Cassigerol, Copalliferol A, Distichol, Flexuosol A, Gnetins C, E, I, and K, Heimiol A, Hemsleyanols A, B, C, D, E, and F, Heyneanol A,

Hopéaphenol, Isohopeaphenol, Kob'ophenol A et B, Miyabenol C, Pallidol 5, Parviflorol, Piceid, Stemonoporol, Suffruticosols A and B, Naticaffinol, Naticanols A, B and C, Naticaphenol A, α-Niniferine, Nisitifuran A, Resveratrol is claimed for many biological activities:

Antioxidant, “Antioxidant action of Resveratrol on lipoperoxidation” J.P. Blond et Al, Sciences des Aliments, 15 (1995), 347-358

Anti-inflammatory, "Molecular and cellular effects of Resveratrol in inflmmation" J. Schwager et Al, MIS 2002, Rennes, France, May 22-23, 2002

Naso-relaxant, "Endothelium-dependent vasodilatator effects of Resveratrol, a natural phenolic component of red wines, in rat aorta" Orallo et Al, Cardiovascular pharmacology PA-56pp.l27

It is also claimed in patents of skin care products such as patent FR 2766176 (Caudalie) which claims esters from C4 of Resveratrol or oligomers for their anti-radical, antioxidant, vasoprotective activity. Patent US 08 / 900,795 (Unilever) claims the presence of Resveratrol to prevent the proliferation of keratinocytes and stimulate their differentiation. Patent FR 2777186 (L'Oréal) claims from 0.001 to 10% of hydroxystilbenes and hydroxyalkylated derivatives to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts, and inhibit the expression of proteases of the extracellular matrix and metalloproteinases. L'Oréal claims the same compounds in the same proportions in patent FR 2,777,184 for reducing the adhesion of microorganisms to the skin and mucous membranes, and in patent FR 2277183, increasing the peeling of the skin. and finally in patent FR 2796278 the inhibition of the glycation of proteins. Patent FR 2778337 (LΝSERM) claims polyhydroxylated stilbenes, monomers or polymers as antagonists of the arylhydrocarbon receptor ligands. US Patent 60 / 085,821 (Oklahoma Medical Reseach Foundation) claims Resveratrol and Piceatannol as a myeloperoxidase inhibitor. Patent FR 15098000 (Actichem) describes Resveratrol and its oligomers as inhibitors of the 5-Reductase enzyme.

E-Niniferin is cited in the scientific literature as having a number of biological activities:

-Antibacterial activity (Sultanbawa et al., Phytochemistry; 26; 3; 1987; 799-

802) -Anti-tumor and hepatoprotective activity (Masayaoshi Ohyama et al., Bioorganic

& Medicinal Chemistry Lettërs; 9; 1999; 3057-3060)

-Anti-fungal (Bala AE. A et al, Journal of Physiopathology; Jan. 2000, vol 148, n ° l, pp 29-32) -Inhibition of the growth of lung cancer cells A 549, and induction of their apoptosis (Sheng-Zhi and Xu-Guang, Acta Academiiae Medicinae Shanghai, Sept 1998, vol 25, n ° 5, pp 327-330)

-Protection of hepatocytes against attacks by CC14 (Oshima Y. et al, Experimentia; vol 51; n ° l; pp 63-66; 1995)

-Cytotoxic and antimutagenic power, (Kim HJ et al., Arch.Pharm Res. 2002 Jun; 25 (3): 293-9) E-Niniferine is claimed in patents (already cited) alongside Resveratrol: Caudalie , IΝSERM and Actichem. Another oligomer is α-Niniférine which is a quadimer of Resveratrol We also know a certain number of biological properties:

- Inhibitor of the prostaglandin H2 synthase cyclooxygenase activity (Lee-SeungHo et al., Planta Medica; vol 64; n03; pp 204-207 (1998)

- Inhibition of Protein Kinase C (Xu-G et al, Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica; vol 29; n ° 11; pp 818-822, 1994) and (Kulanthaivel P. et al, Planta Medica; vol 61; n ° l; pp41-44, 1995)

- Antagonist of the action of 20-hydroxyecdysone (Keckeis-K et al. Cellular and Molecular Life Sciences, Feb 2000, vol 57, n ° 2, pp 333-336)

- Inhibition of the L-dopa oxidase activity of tyrosinase (Kang Bo Seong et al, Medical Science Research, April 1998, vol 26, n ° 4, p 235-237)

The chemical formula of ε-Niniferine is e C ₂₈ H ₂₂ O ₆ (CAS: 62218-08-0)

Variable amounts are found in a large number of plants (in free form or of glucosides), for example in the following plants:

- Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex pumila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum, Hopea parvifloraus Irisii, Iriskeiii, Iriske Parthenocissus tricuspitada, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Natica rassak, Natica affinis, Nitis amurensis, Nitis betulifolia, Nitis flexuosa, Nitis heyneana, Nitis quinquangularis, Nitis

Nitis vinifera (Nitaceae) It has been observed that these resveratrol oligomers, in particular Pε-viniferin, and the plant extracts containing them, have particular properties with respect to human skin and which have never been described in the literature or in patents. These properties are described below and the use in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions of Resveratrol oligomers, and / or their glucosides, and / or their formic or acetic esters having these properties is the subject of the present invention. at). Activities, of the hormonal type, most often resulting in effects which resemble those produced by retinoids, and making it possible to combat the effects of hormonal variations having negative effects on the skin, the lips, the hair, the nails, the external genitals, the oral sphere, and in particular the effects of menopause b). Activities which make it possible in particular to combat the effects of chronological and / or photoinduced aging, c). Activities that reduce wrinkles and fine lines, wilting of the skin, d). Activities which make it possible to combat the reduction in the thickness of the epidermis and the dermis, e). Activities that help fight the loss of skin suppleness. Examples of plant extracts containing resveratrol oligomers and examples of compositions of cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplements will be described below to illustrate the present invention, without these examples being limiting thereof.

Example of plant extract rich in ε-Niniferine: vine shoot extract. Use for example the vine shoot extract as prepared according to patent FR2795965, and the main characteristics of which are as follows: Beige powder ε-Niniferin content: 15%

Content of α-Niniferine: 0.1 to 1%

Water insoluble product.

Product soluble in ethoxydiglycol and butylene glycol.

This product is called Niniférol® in the following experiment and the following examples. Other types of vine shoot extracts can be prepared with a total content of resveratrol oligomers which can vary from 1% to 50% and with an e-Niniferine content which can vary from 1% to 40%. Experience: Study of the hormonal and retinoid activity of ε-Niniferine and

Ninifol® in comparison with soy isoflavones, by measurement of the effect of these products on the expression of human skin genes, from a 56-year-old woman, menopausal and unsubstituted. The method used: the “real-time reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction RT-PCR”, quantitative method, to study the effects of the test compounds on the expression of selected genes coding for proteins typical of the differentiation / proliferation of epidermis : Filaggrine, Loricrine, Keratin 11,

Calgranulin B. The compounds to be studied are applied to the surface of skin explants taken from a postmenopausal woman during cosmetic surgery, it being specified that this person is 56 years old and has never undergone any hormonal treatment. replacement.

After 24 hours of incubation, the expression of the genes coding for the proteins mentioned above is evaluated and compared with the expression of these genes in skin explants from the same subject and from the same areas, and treated with placebo. . The evaluation is carried out from the ARΝ messengers extracted, reverse transcribed into cDΝA followed by quantification by quantitative PCR (Q-PCR).

A first series of Q-PCRs is carried out on the βactin marker to verify the homogeneity of the preparations to be compared. Then, duplicates are carried out using pairs of primers specific for the sequences of the selected genes and of βactin (reference marker) and the differential expressions are quantified.

Results.

The expression below shows the expression of the 4 genes with respect to the expression of Actin in each test and with respect to this ratio obtained with the solvent of the products tested:

We see that e-Niniférine always has a strong effect on the expression of the 4 genes tested and is always very different from the effects produced by soy isoflavones.

For the 2 genes that soy isoflavones practically do not modulate (Loricrin and

Keratin 11), Viniferol® has an effect as marked as Pε-Niniférine. The increase in the expression of the Calgranulin B gene and the decrease in the expression of the Fillagin, Loricrin and Keratin 11 genes clearly show a blocking effect on cell differentiation and a stimulation of cell proliferation, effects which are relate directly to the types of hormonal and retinoid effects.

The ε-Niniferine pure or contained in a plant extract such as Viniferol® is therefore capable of inducing in a skin deficient in hormones, effects similar to those produced by natural hormones, effects also similar to those obtained. action of retinoic acid.

Another form of vine shoot extract.

In order to make Viniferol® hydrodispersible and therefore easier to introduce into pharmaceutical and / or dermo-cosmetic compositions, it will be subjected to the following treatment:

20g of Viniferol® are dissolved in 20g of absolute ethyl alcohol.

In addition, 2 g of a sodium acrylate (Simugel®) are mixed in 58 g of water.

The first mixture is slowly mixed with the second and the whole is subjected to conventional lyophilization according to the rules of the art.

A powder is obtained which is easy to disperse in water or in an emulsion.

This powder is called: Viniferol L®.

This product contains 90% Viniférol®.

Alternatively, the sodium acrylate can be replaced with a sugar such as inulin.

The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dietary supplement compositions of the present invention can be presented in an appropriate form according to the rules of the art in use, in another form in the form of liquids, pastes, creams, emulsions, lotions, d oils, gels, masks, solids, powders, sprays, aerosols, presented in suitable containers such as vials, bottles, jars, boxes, ampoules, capsules, pencils, stick holders. The cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions of the present invention may be composed of an oil / water or water / oil emulsion, of emulsion with twin phases, of micro-emulsion, of PIT emulsion, of nano-emulsion, of multiple water / oil / water or oil / water / oil emulsion, pseudo-emulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases using gelling agents), aqueous gel, fatty gel, hydro-alcoholic gel, fatty phase, suspension, solid or liquid soap, foaming solution, of one of the preceding forms containing micro-capsules, nano-capsules, liposomes. The compositions of the present invention in the case of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical or dietary supplement application can therefore also comprise cosmetic or pharmaceutical adjuvants or dietary supplement conventionally used as components of the oily phase, gelling agents, emulsifiers , electrolytes, humectants, sequestrants, emollients, moisturizers, film-forming agents, insoluble pigments, dyes, sunscreens, active ingredients or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetology, dermatology and food supplements. a) Oily phase

The oily phase of the emulsions of the present invention may contain, for example: hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or mineral oils such as isohexadecane and isododecane; natural oils such as sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, hydrogenated castor oil, avocado oil, hydrogenated palm oil; triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, caprylic / caprylic linoleic triglyceride, caprylic / capric succinic triglyceride; silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone and dimethiconol; fatty alcohols such as stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol and hexadecylic alcohol fatty acids such as stearic acid, palmitic acid of fatty acid esters such as dioctyl succinate, glyceryl dioleate, myristyl myristate and isopropyl myristate of waxes such as beeswax, paraffin, carnauba wax, ozokerite lanolin and its derivatives (oil, alcohol, waxes); their mixtures. b) Gelling agents The gelling agents which can be used in the composition of the present invention can be chosen from the gelling agents known in the art, which can be used in emulsions and in gels.

The emulsions and gels can be prepared using one or a combination of several gelling agents chosen from acceptable gelling agents in preferably dermatological pharmaceutical or cosmetic products including: polysaccharide gums such as modified cellulose derivatives, carrageenan derivatives, d derivatives alginates and guar derivatives polysaccharide gums obtained by fermentation of bacteria such as Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum and Gellan gum acrylic polymers such as carbomers, polyacrylates, polymetacrylates and their derivatives quaternized polymers PVP and PVP-derived polymers, mixtures thereof

In the emulsions or gels comprising the composition of the present invention, the gelling agent or the combination of gelling agents represents approximately 0.1 to 30%, and preferably approximately 0.25 to 25%, by weight of the composition. c) Emulsifiers The emulsifiers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention can be chosen from emulsifiers known in the art, usable in oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or multiple emulsions, or emulsions with lamellar phases, or microemulsions, or nanoemulsions, or PIT emulsions.

The emulsion compositions can be prepared using an emulsifier chosen from emulsifiers acceptable in cosmetics, including:

Sucroesters such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose distearate

Sorbitan esters and ethoxylated sorbitan esters such as sorbitan stearate or polysorbate

Glycerol esters, ethoxylated glycerol esters and polyglycerols such as glyceryl oleate or PEG-20 glyceryl stearate or polyglyceryl-10-stearate

Ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as ceteth-12 or steareth-6

Sesquioleates like sorbitan sesquioleate

Emulsifiers based on silicone oil such as silicone polyols Ethoxylated plant sterols; or a mixture of one or more of the emulsifiers mentioned above.

The amount of emulsifiers optionally present in the water-in-oil or oil-in-water composition is preferably either: approximately 0.5 to 15% by weight of the composition. The amount of emulsifiers optionally present in the multiple water-in-oil-in-water emulsion of the present invention is preferably: approximately 7 to 20% by weight of the composition. d) Other components of the formulation

The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise one or more other compounds which will be known to those skilled in the art, for example: electrolytes for the stabilization of water-in-oil emulsion such as sodium chloride or magnesium sulfate , preferably in an amount ranging from about 0.2 to 4% by weight of the composition; humectants such as glycerin or propylene glycol or PEG or sorbitol, preferably in an amount ranging from approximately 1 to 10% by weight of the composition; sequestrants such as tetrasodium EDTA, preferably in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of the composition; emollients such as fatty acid ethers or fatty acid esters, preferably in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition; hydrating agents such as hyaluronic acid, NaPCA, preferably in an amount ranging from approximately 0.01 to 5% by weight of the composition; film-forming agents to facilitate spreading on the surface of the skin, such as oat, wheat, collagen and almond protein hydrolysates, preferably in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition; insoluble pigments such as titanium oxide, rutile titanium oxide, anatase titanium oxide, pyrogenic titanium oxide, micronized titanium oxide, titanium oxide surface-treated with silicones or by amino acids, or by lecithin, or by metal stearates, iron oxide, iron oxide surface-treated with silicones, or by amino acids, or by lecithin or by stearates metals, zinc oxide, micronized zinc oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide, preferably in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition; and mixtures thereof. sunscreens such as Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Benzylidene Camphor sulfonic acid, Octyl Salicylate, Octyl Triazone, 3-Benzylydene Camphor, Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane. active ingredients intended to strengthen the activity of products in other areas of skin care and its annexes, such as for example and without being limiting, Vitamins A, C, E, bacterial extracts, agents anti-inflammatory like enoxolone or ursolic acid, ceramide (III, II) or pseudo-ceramides, peptides like pyroGlu-Glu-Asp-Ser-GlyOH or Gly-His-Lys or Arg- Gly-Asp-Ser, alpha or beta hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid.

In everything which follows or what precedes, the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise stated.

In the compositions which are the subject of the present invention, the content of oligomers of Resveratrol, and / or their glucosides and / or their formic or acetic esters can be present in the proportion of 0.001 to 40%. When the oligomers of Resveratrol and / or their glucosides are contained in a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts, the compositions which are the subject of the present invention may contain from 0.01% to 80%. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention may appear in the examples which follow, and are given purely by way of illustration and in no way limitative. Example 1: Face care cream for dry and very dry skin. The following fatty phase is prepared:

Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl Glucoside 4g Jojoba Oil 4g

Caprylic / Capric Triglycérides 4g Jojoba Esters lg

Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 4g

Isocetyl Stearate 4g

Cetyl ricinoleate 4g

Shea Butter lg Silicone oil (Phenyl Trimethicone) 5g

Silicone oil (Dimethicone) '2g

Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate 3 g

This mixture is brought to 70 ° C and well homogenized. Furthermore, the following aqueous phase is prepared: Purified water QSl00g

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate / Propylene Glycol 5g Cellulose 2g

Silica balls coated with metal oxides lg

Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80 1.25g

Sodium hyaluronate 0.1g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 70 ° C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 ° C., is poured slowly onto the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with fairly vigorous stirring. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fatty phase. The oil in water emulsion is formed.

The following mixture is also prepared:

Viniferol® 2g

Butylene glycol 10g

Viniférol® is dissolved in butylene glycol with vigorous stirring. The mixture is then added to the still hot emulsion.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., successively add with moderate stirring:

Preservatives: 0.15g

Perfume: 0.45g After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C with slow stirring.

A white emulsion of pleasant consistency is thus obtained, suitable for dry and very dry skin of menopausal women. Example 2. Oil Water Emulsion The fatty phase consists of: Dimethicone Copolyol & Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 3 g

Isodecyl Neopentanoate ^; 5g

Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 5g

Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 5g Jojoba oil 5g

Cetyl alcohol lg

Stearic Acid lg

Beeswax lg Glycerol Stearate 0.5g

Silicone oil (Dimethicone) 2g This fatty phase is heated to 70 ° C and well homogenized. Furthermore, the following aqueous phase is prepared:

Purified water Q. S.100g Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g

Glycerin 3 g

Sorbitol 2g

Carbomer 0.25g

Xanthan Gum 0.2g Biosaccharide Gum-1 0 5g

Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g

Methyl Paraben 0.25g

Propyl Paraben 0.15g

10% soda 0.5g All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 70 ° C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 70 ° C., is poured slowly onto the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with fairly vigorous stirring. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fatty phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Then added with vigorous stirring:

Viniferol L® 3g

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C, add successively with moderate stirring: Perfume: 0.35g

After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C with slow stirring.

We get a creamy white, creamy, very fresh touch, to fight against the effects of chronological aging. Example 3. Water Oil Emulsion with lamellar phases.

The fatty phase consists of:

Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside 6g

Octyl Stearate 2g Beeswax 1.5g

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 2.5g

Jojoba oil 4g

Shea Butter 4g

Silicone oil (Dimethicone) 2g This fatty phase is heated to 80 ° C and well homogenized. Furthermore, the following aqueous phase is prepared:

Purified water Q. S. 100g

TetrasodiumEDTA 0.05g

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate & Propylene Glycol 10g Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g

Methyl Paraben 0.25g

Propyl Paraben 0.15g

O-Cymen-5-ol 0.1g

All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 80 ° C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 80 ° C., is poured slowly onto the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with fairly vigorous stirring. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fatty phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed. The following mixture is then added:

Sophora davidii extract 15g

Propylene glycol 15g

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring.

When the temperature reaches 40 ° C, add successively with moderate stirring: Perfume: 0.35%

After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C with slow stirring. A very smooth white cream is obtained, with lamellar phases, which can facilitate the penetration of the active ingredients and prolonged hydration. It is ideal for body care and in particular for restoring the suppleness of the skin. EXAMPLE 4 Hair Care Product The following gel is prepared:

Demineralized water 65.1g

Carbomer 0.3g

Sodium hydroxide 0.15g

We add the following solution: PEG-400 2g

0.25g methyl paraben

Biosol 0.1g

The following solution is prepared which is added to the preceding gel: Ethyl alcohol perfumery 20g ε-Viniferin at 95% 0.2g

Finally, the following ingredients are added:

Polysilicone-3 10g

L-Palmitoyl Carnitine 0.1g

This gives an excellent daily treatment gel for hair, beard, eyelashes, eyebrows and all other defective hairs.

EXAMPLE 5 Dental Care Product

The following solution is prepared:

Glycerin 20g

Viniferol® 3g This solution is then kneaded with the following ingredients:

Alumina 40g

Xanthan gum lg

Water Q.S. 100g

Aroma lg Aspartame 0.5g

Sodium benzoate 0.5g

We obtain a toothpaste useful for dental hygiene and the care of gingivitis. EXAMPLE 6 Care Product for the Leyres

The following components are melted at 80 ° C:

White beeswax 8g

Ozokerite 6g Capric / Caprylic triglycerides 21g

Carnauba wax 5g

Candellila wax 7g

Cetyl alcohol 10g

Castor oil 34.49g Viniferol® 5g

Tocopherol acetate 0.5 g

Pearlescent pigment Mica Titanium dioxide 2g

Aluminum coloring agent CI 15.985 0.01g

Aluminum lacquer dye CI 45410 0.5 Natural flavor 0.5g

The melt is then poured into suitable molds (to give a stick shape), cooled and then removed from the mold. We obtain useful sticks to reduce wrinkles and fine lines on the lips and around the lips. Example 7: Nail Care Product The following Oil Water Cream is prepared: The fatty phase consists of:

Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 3g

Isononyl Neopentanoate 5g

Polyisobutene Hydrogenated 1.5g Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 1.5g

Jojoba oil 1.5g

Dimethiconol Behenate 1.5g

Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone Crosspolyler 10g This fatty phase is heated to 60 ° C and well homogenized. Furthermore, the following aqueous phase is prepared:

Purified water Q.S. 100g

Sodium chloride 0.5g

Glycerin 2g Sorbitol 2g

Polyefhylene Glycol 400 2g ε-Viniférine Pentaacetate 3 g

Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g

All the ingredients of the aqueous phase are dissolved in water and the whole is brought to 60 ° C.

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 60 ° C., is poured slowly onto the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with fairly vigorous stirring. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fatty phase. The water-in-oil emulsion is formed.

Then, the emulsion is cooled with moderate stirring. When the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the following are added with moderate stirring: Perfume: 0.35% After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C. with slow stirring.

We obtain a white cream, very smooth, for the care of damaged, cracked, brittle nails.

Example 8: treating foundation.

The following fatty phase is prepared: Cetyl alcohol lg

Silicone oil 4g

Glyceryl Stearate lg

Stearic Acid lg

Tocopherol acetate 0.5g Jojoba oil 3g

Perfluoro Polymethyl Isopropyl Ether 0.5g

Cetearyl Octanoate 6g

Diisostéaryl Malate 8g This fatty phase is heated to 80 ° C and well homogenized. Furthermore, the following aqueous phase is prepared:

Purified water Q. S. 100g

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g

0.2g sodium dehydroacetate Xanthan gum 0.3g

The fatty phase, homogeneous and heated to 80 ° C., is poured slowly onto the aqueous phase brought to the same temperature, with fairly vigorous stirring. Stirring is continued for 10 minutes after the end of the introduction of the fatty phase. The oil-in-water emulsion is formed.

Pigments and talc are then added, which are mixed vigorously while hot: Titanium Oxide 6.3 g Mixture of Yellow Iron Oxide and Talc 4, lg

Mixture of Red Iron Oxide and Talc 0.2g

Mixture of Brown Iron Oxide and Talc 1.5g

Talc 5g

When the colored emulsion is perfectly homogeneous, cooling begins with moderate stirring.

When the temperature is around 45 ° C, the following well-homogenized mixtures are added:

Polyethylene Glycol 400 2g

Methyl Paraben 0.25g Propyl Paraben 0.15g

Bronopol 0.1g

Dichlorobenzyl alcohol 0, 12g

Then: Butylene Glycol 5g Viniferol® 0.5g

After good homogenization and when the temperature reaches 40 ° C., the following are added with moderate stirring:

Perfume: 0.35%

After homogenization, the emulsion is cooled to 30 ° C with slow stirring. We obtain a foundation for makeup treating wrinkled skin. Example 9. Food supplement. Ingestible capsules contain the following mixture: Viniferol® 0.05g Malto-dextrin 0.3g

Inulin 0.15g

Regular oral intake of these capsules is indicated to prevent and combat disorders due to hormonal disturbances. EXAMPLE 10 Shaving Foam

The following ingredients are kneaded by heating them together to 90 ° C: Demineralized water Q.S.100g

Stearic Acid 8g

Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.5g Myristamine Oxide 1.5g

Triethanolamine 3.5% »

Ethoxylated lanolin 50 moles lg

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 4g

Methyl Paraben 0.2g Propyl Paraben Ô, lg

Butylene Glycol 5g

Hopea parviflora extract 5g

When the mixture is well homogeneous, it is cooled with slow but powerful stirring. When the temperature is 40 ° C, add with stirring: Perfume lg

When the mixture is at ambient temperature, the product is conditioned in 18 bar aluminum aerosol cans, a suitable valve is crimped and a propane / butane propellant mixture is set at 2.5 / 2.7 bar so that 'there are 5 g of gas per 100 g of the total mixture. By opening the valve fitted with a "foam" diffuser, a very smooth shaving foam is obtained, for very fine dermes and epidermis. Hair removal or post-hair removal products can also be prepared in the same way. Example 11. Sun protection product. The following fatty phase is prepared:

Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol '4g

Polysorbate 20 0.2g

Jojoba oil lg Ozokerite 2g

Isostearyl Neopentanoate 4g

Octyl Methoxycinnamate 8g

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmefhane 2g 4-Methyl Benzylydene Camphor 3 g

Tocopherol acetate 0.5g

This fatty phase is heated to 75 ° C until homogenized, then allowed to cool to 60 ° C. The following aqueous phase is prepared: Demineralized water Q.S. 100g

Sclerotium Gum 0.2g

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05g

Sodium chloride 0.8g

Polyefhylene Glycol 400 2g Methyl Paraben 0.25g

Propyl Paraben 0.1g

Biosol 0.1g

The aqueous phase is heated to 60 ° C. It is then poured slowly with vigorous stirring into the fatty phase at the same temperature. The mixture is stirred at this temperature for approximately 20 minutes. The water in silicone emulsion is formed. Then, it is cooled with gentle stirring.

When the temperature is 40 ° C, the following mixture is added: Butylene Glycol 5g

Viniferol L® lg We homogenize and then add:

Perfume 0.5g

Homogenized and then allowed to cool to room temperature.

A sunscreen with a medium protection index is obtained, very suitable for wrinkled, withered skin, which has lost its flexibility. The above examples are obviously not limiting. In Example 4, which deals with hair, beard, eyelashes and other defective hairs, it is very possible to add permanent, semi-permanent or temporary dyes to the formulation in order to obtain a treating color. Similarly in Example 6, in the fatty stick formula for reducing wrinkles and fine lines on the lips and around the lips, the proportion of dyes can be increased to the detriment of the fatty phase in order to obtain a make-up treating the lips and around lips. Example 8 of a foundation treating wrinkled skin can be applied to the face and to any other part of the human body, including the external genital areas.

The make-up treating the nails can be obtained by adding Viniferol or ε-Viniferine acetate or glucoside or ester, or a plant extract containing it, or a mixture of several plant extracts containing it in a conventional composition of nail polish. Example 9 which relates to a food supplement can also apply to a dietetic product.

Claims

claims

1) Cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions intended to prevent and / or combat the negative effects of a hormonal imbalance in the skin and / or the hair, and / or the nails, and / or the lips, and / or the external genital organs, and / or the oral mucous membranes, imbalance due to age and / or a pathology, and characterized by the fact that they contain one or more oligomers of Resveratrol, and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters, and / or one or more plant extracts containing them.

2) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that the oligomers or oligomers of Resveratrol, and or their glucosides and / or their esters are present in the proportion of 0.001% to 40%.

3) Compositions according to claims 1 and 2 and characterized in that the oligomer (s) of Resveratrol are present in the form of acetates.

4) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that they contain a plant extract or a mixture of plant extracts containing one or more oligomers of Resveratrol and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters.

5) Compositions according to claim 1 and characterized in that the plant extract or the mixture of plant extracts is present in the proportion of 0.01% to 80%. 6) Compositions according to Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain plant extracts (alone or as a mixture) which are chosen from the following extracts:

Balanocarpus zeylanicus, Caragana chamlagu, Caragana sinica, Carex fedia, Carex humilis, Carex kobomugi, Carex pendula, Carex purnila Thunb, Cyphostemma crotalarioides, Cupressus, Gnetum hainanense, Gnetum ula, Gnetum venosum,

Hopea parviflora, Iris clarkei, Neobalanocarpus heimii, Paeoni lactiflora, Parthenocissus tricuspitada, Shorea disticha, Shorea hemsleyana, Sophora davidii, Sophora leachiana, Sophora nuttaliana, Vatica rassak, Vatica af inis, Vitis amuleanis, Vitis amurensis, Vitis amurensolia quinquangularis, Vitis coignetiaeNitis vinifera (Vitaceae).

7) Compositions according to claims 1 to 6 characterized in that oligomers of Resveratrol, defined as oligostilbene when they have a stilbene bond, and stilbenoids when stilbene double bonds are involved in a condensation reaction, can include the following compounds: ε-Viniferin, Ampelopsin A and C, Amurensins I, J, K, L, and M, Balanocarpol, Betulifol A and B, Canaliculatol, Caraganaphenol A, Cassigerol, Copalliferol A, Distichol, Flexuosol A, Gnetins C, E, I, and K, Heimiol A, Hemsleyanols A, B, C, D, E, and F, Heyneanol A, Hopéaphenol, Isohopeaphenol, Kobophenol A and B, Miyabenol C, Pallidol 5,

Parviflorol, Piceid, Stemonoporol, Suffruticosols A and B, Vaticaffinol, Vaticanols A, B and C, Vaticaphenol A, α-Viniferin, Visitifùran A, Vitisin A

8) Compositions according to Claims 1 to 7, and characterized in that the plant extract is a vine shoot extract containing from 1% to 50% of resveratrol oligomers and / or their glucosides, and / or their esters .

9) Compositions according to Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the vine shoot extract contains from 1% to 40% of ε-Viniferin.

10) Compositions according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they are intended to combat the effects of menopause. 11) Compositions according to Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they are intended to combat the effects of chronological and / or photoinduced aging,

12) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11 characterized in that they are intended to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, wilting of the skin

13) Compositions according to Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are intended to combat the reduction in the thickness of the epidermis and of the dermis

14) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11 characterized in that they are intended to combat the loss of flexibility of the skin.

15) Compositions according to claims 1 to 14, characterized in that they are intended for care and / or make-up treating the face. 16) Compositions according to claims 1 to 14, characterized in that they are intended for care and / or make-up dealing with the body

17) Compositions according to claims there 14, characterized in that they are intended for care and / or make-up treating lips and lip contours.

18) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are intended for the care and / or coloring of hair and hair.

19) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are intended for shaving and / or hair removal. 20) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are intended for oral care.

21) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are intended for care and / or makeup treating external genital areas. 22) Compositions according to claims there 11, characterized in that they are intended for care and / or makeup treating nails.

23) Compositions according to claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are intended for sun protection of the skin.

24) Cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions according to claims 1 to 23 and characterized in that they can be in the form of liquids, pastes, creams, emulsions, lotions, oils, gels, masks, solids, powders, sprays, aerosols, presented in suitable containers such as vials, bottles, jars, boxes, ampoules, capsules, pencils, stick holders. 25) Cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food supplement compositions according to claims 1 to 24 and characterized in that they can be composed of oil / water or water / oil emulsion, emulsion with twin phases, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nano-emulsion, multiple water / oil / water or oil / water / oil emulsion, pseudo-emulsion (dispersion of two immiscible phases using gelling agents), aqueous gel, fatty gel , hydro-alcoholic gel, fatty phase, suspension, solid or liquid soap, foaming solution, of one of the preceding forms containing micro-capsules, nano-capsules, liposomes. 26) Compositions according to claims 1 to 25 characterized in that they are in the form of food or diet supplements.