WO2008015367A2

WO2008015367A2 - Cosmetic treatment process using an anhydrous composition in the form of a film comprising a film-forming polymer and a conditioning agent

Info

Publication number: WO2008015367A2
Application number: PCT/FR2007/051779
Authority: WO
Inventors: Véronique MAHE; Jean-Yves Legendre
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2006-08-04
Filing date: 2007-08-03
Publication date: 2008-02-07
Also published as: WO2008015367A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising - a first step of treatment of the keratin fibres, - and a second treatment step consisting in applying to said fibres an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and at least one conditioning agent and in bringing the fibres thus treated in contact with an aqueous liquid or a fluid comprising water vapour.

Description

Cosmetic treatment method using an anhydrous composition in the form of a film comprising a film-forming polymer and a conditioning agent

The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, consisting in using on keratin fibers that have been previously treated, an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one film-forming polymer and at least one conditioning agent in the presence of a liquid or an aqueous fluid. The invention also relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one film-forming polymer and at least one particular conditioning agent. The hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, discoloration, perms and / or straightening. For example, in the case of a permanent or relaxing, it has been observed that the quality of the hair is often altered. The essential consequences of this alteration are a reduction of their cosmetic properties, such as their brilliance, as well as a degradation of their mechanical properties, in particular a degradation of their resistance due to a swelling of the hair during the rinsing between step d application of a composition containing a reducing agent (reduction step) and the step of applying a composition containing an oxidizing agent (oxidation step). This degradation can also result in an increase in the porosity of the hair.

The hair is thus weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as brushings.

In the same way, the coloration or the discoloration, which are processes generally carried out in strongly alkaline medium, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide is another example of chemical treatment which generally leads to a significant degradation of the fibers.

In addition, such treatments often make the hair difficult to discipline, in particular they are difficult to disentangle or comb, and the hair, even abundant, have difficulty maintaining a good-looking hairstyle due to the fact that the hair lacks vigor and nervousness.

Thus, to overcome all of the disadvantages described above, it may be particularly advantageous for a user to apply care products that can condition the hair as a result of these treatments, in particular to provide them with body, lightness, softness as well as to improve their ability to disentangle. These hair care products may in particular be in the form of gels, creams, lotions, serum or shampoos.

However, the use of these care compositions generally have the disadvantage of altering, reducing or even eliminating the effects conferred by the chemical treatments previously carried out which has the particular effect of reducing their behavior over time.

For example, the artificial colors of the hair made by a coloring treatment may fade due to the subsequent application of a care composition. Thus the reflections can be faded to lead to less bright colors and less aesthetic. In the case of a perm, the use of a care composition can alter or decrease the degree of curling of the hair. On the other hand, it may also be of interest for a user to use a care composition following a conventional cosmetic treatment that does not damage the hair to impart additional cosmetic properties. Such treatments may consist for example in the application of a fixing composition, a cream or a shampoo.

Finally, it may be particularly advantageous for a user to treat the hair successively with the aid of various care compositions in order to confer additional or complementary cosmetic properties or to reinforce the cosmetic properties conferred by a first treatment. care.

However, the successive use of these care compositions generally has the disadvantage of leading to an increase in the hair.

Thus there is a real need to have a treatment method that applied to hair that has been previously treated, does not have all the disadvantages described above, that is to say, which does not affect the cosmetic effects related to previous hair treatments and which gives the hair additional or complementary satisfactory cosmetic properties.

Surprisingly and advantageously, the Applicant has just discovered that by carrying out a cosmetic treatment process consisting in applying to hair that has been previously treated, an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising a water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and a conditioning agent in the presence of an aqueous liquid or a fluid comprising water vapor, it was possible not only to maintain the effects provided by the previous hair treatments but also to give the hair additional or additional cosmetic properties without weighing them down, such as, for example, shine, smoothing, detangling or a styling effect. This method makes it possible to lead to a satisfactory cladding of the hair during the disintegration of the film in the presence of the fluid. The sheath obtained is in the form of a homogeneous deposit, smooth and has excellent adhesion to the hair which allows distribute the conditioning agent evenly over all the fibers to be treated.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic treatment method as described below. Another subject of the invention also consists of a multi-compartment device or kit comprising a first compartment comprising at least aqueous liquid and a second compartment comprising at least one anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer or hydrodispersible and at least one conditioning agent.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly upon reading the description and examples which follow. According to the invention, the process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, comprises:

a first step of treatment of the keratinous fibers,

a second treatment step of applying to said fibers an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer having a solubility in water measured at 25 ° C. of at least 0, 1 gram / liter and at least one conditioning agent, and contacting the thus treated fibers with an aqueous liquid or a fluid comprising water vapor.

According to a particular embodiment, the fluid comprises water vapor and possibly liquid water or one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents that can be liquid and / or gaseous, or possibly liquid water and one or more solvents. cosmetically acceptable that can be liquid and / or gaseous.

According to another particular embodiment, the aqueous liquid comprises water with optionally one or more cosmetically acceptable liquid solvents. By cosmetically acceptable solvent is meant in the sense of the present invention, a liquid or gaseous solvent compatible with keratinous fibers and in particular the hair.

As a solvent which can advantageously be used for the production of the fluid, mention may be made in particular of cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, for example alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol or phenyl ethyl alcohol. or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and diethylene glycol monobutyl ether.

Preferably, the fluid comprises only water vapor.

Preferably, the aqueous liquid is water.

According to one embodiment of the method, the fluid has a temperature greater than at least 35 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 40 ^° C, and even more preferably has a temperature between 45 ° C and 150 ^° C.

According to a particular embodiment, the liquid or the fluid is brought into contact with the water-soluble film and the keratinous fibers for a time ranging from one minute to 120 minutes, preferably for a duration ranging from 5 minutes to 60 minutes and even more preferably for a period of from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. Of course, the application of the fluid or the liquid can be repeated several times on the same fiber, each operation being carried out according to a duration as indicated above.

The cosmetic composition in the form of a film and the aqueous liquid or the fluid comprising water vapor can be applied to the keratinous fibers simultaneously or sequentially. Preferably, the cosmetic composition in the form of a film is applied sequentially and the aqueous liquid or the fluid comprising water vapor on the keratinous fibers.

More particularly, the cosmetic composition in the form of a film is applied to the keratin fibers, and then the aqueous liquid or fluid comprising water vapor on the fibers. Once these operations have been carried out, it is preferable to massage the fibers in order to promote the disintegration of the film and the distribution of the conditioning agent thus released on all the fibers to be treated.

The production of a fluid comprising water vapor can be done using any apparatus known per se and provided for this purpose. However, according to the present invention, it is preferable to use a diffusion device (for example, a device generating an aqueous mist from ultrasound which is sold under the name MICROMIST by TAKARA BELMONT) or any other equivalent device, which In this case, it is particularly suitable (point, regular and homogeneous treatment of the fibers, without risk of overheating, with integrated post-cooling treatment).

According to one embodiment of the method, the first step of treatment of the keratinous fibers may consist of a dyeing or bleaching process, a method of fixing and / or maintaining the hairstyle, a permanent, a straightening, a method of care or a washing process.

The cosmetic composition in the form of a film according to the invention may be applied to the keratinous fibers immediately after the first fiber treatment step or after a pause time which can be between 10 seconds and one hour, preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes, and even more preferably between 1 minute and 15 minutes.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition in the form of a film is applied to the keratinous fibers immediately after the first fiber treatment step. Preferably, the treatment method according to the invention comprises a possible exposure time for the first step.

Alternatively, once the exposure time has elapsed, the fibers can be rinsed, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed again before being dried or allowed to dry. The drying can be carried out with the helmet, the hair dryer and / or the hair straightener.

The fibers can thus be dry or wet before the second process step of the process according to the invention. According to this variant, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises an additional step of rinsing the keratinous fibers between the first and the second fiber treatment step.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "film" is understood to mean a fine and grippy solid. By "end" is meant a solid having a thickness of at most 1000 μm. This film is generally of adequate size to be easily manipulated by the user. It can have a shape of square, rectangle, disk or any other form. Each film generally has a thickness of 10 μm to 1000 μm, preferably 20 to 500 μm and better still 50 to 300 μm. It may have an area of 10 to 800 cm ² and preferably 100 to 600 cm ² .

Furthermore, the term "anhydrous composition" in the sense of the present invention, a composition containing less than 10% by weight of water, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the film, and even more preferably less than 1% by weight of water. Preferably, the anhydrous composition does not contain water.

In addition, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers" means polymers having a solubility in water measured at 25 ° C. of at least 0.1 gram / liter (g / L). a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is preferably greater than or equal to 1 g / L. The polymers for constituting these films may be of synthetic or natural origin, and may be modified by chemical reactions, if appropriate. These polymers must be physiologically acceptable, that is, compatible with the hair and the scalp.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of a auxiliary filming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on human keratin fibers such as the hair.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers used in the cosmetic composition in the form of a film may be for example chosen from (1) protein-type polymers, such as wheat or soy proteins; keratin, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; casein; albumin; collagen; glutelin; glucagon; gluten; zein; gelatines and their derivatives; (2) polymers derived from chitin or chitosan, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers of chitin or chitosan; (3) polysaccharide polymers such as in particular (i) cellulosic polymers, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; and (ii) starches and their derivatives; (4) acrylic polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and copolymers thereof; (5) vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam, polyvinyl alcohols; (6) polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates, carrageenans, ulvans and other algal colloids; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate; and mixtures of these polymers. As water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, caprolactams, pullulan, pectin, mannan and galactomannans, glucomannans and their derivatives may also be mentioned.

Of course, the films according to the invention may comprise one or more of these polymers.

Preferably, the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymers used are polysaccharide polymers such as, in particular, cellulosic polymers as well as starches and their derivatives. Advantageously, the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymers used are maltodextrins (such as N-Lite marketed by National Starch), polyvinylpyrrolidone, cellulose derivatives such as Syntapharm's Metolose, Aqualon's KLUCEL), marketed starch derivatives. by the company National Starch and Chemicals under the name AMAZE or alginates (such as Kelcosol or Manucol of ISP).

The water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer (s) is (are) present in the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 99% by weight, preferably a content ranging from 5 to 95% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 90% by weight and even more particularly from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The conditioning agent may be selected from a quaternary ammonium salt, an amino silicone, a non-cellulosic cationic polymer, an oil of vegetable origin, a ceramide and a fatty acid ester.

As quaternary ammonium salts, there may be mentioned, for example: those which have the following general formula (I): +

^R 8 _N , ^R 10

N X-R ₉ R ₁₁

(I)

in which the radicals Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic radicals are for example chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy (C ₂ -C ₆₎ alkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C ₂ 2) amidoalkyl (C 2 -C ₆₎ alkyl (C ₂ -C ₂₂₎ acetate hydroxyalkyl having from about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C2-C6) sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;

the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (II) below:

in which R ₁ represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R n represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, X ^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides , phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates. R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R _M denotes a methyl radical, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example sold under the name Rewoquat ^® W 75 by Rewo;

the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III):

++

R ₁₇ R 19

I ⁷ I

R ₁₆ -N- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -NR ₂₁ 2X-

K-18 R_20

(III)

in which R ₁₆ denotes an aliphatic radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₇ , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R 20 and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such diammonium quaternary salts include propane dichloride, diammonium dichloride;

the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:

in which :

R22 is selected from alkyl and Ci -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals Ci -C ₆ alkyl;

R23 is selected from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radicals R ₂₇ ,

the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₈ - C -

linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals R 29,

- the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals, C ₇ -C ₂₁ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X ^" is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is

0 then R23 is R27 and when z is 0 then R25 is R29.

The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R 27, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 25 is a hydrocarbon radical R 29, it preferably

1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂ 4, R 26 and R ₂ s, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from C ₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anion X ^" is even more particularly chloride or methylsulphate, The ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in the composition according to the invention in which:

R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,

- x and y are equal to 1;

z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;

- R23 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C -

methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ hydrocarbon radicals

- the hydrogen atom;

- R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₈ - C -

- the hydrogen atom;

- R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals in C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

For example, compounds of formula (IV), for example diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylammoniumammonium, monoacyloxyethylammonium, and the like may be mentioned. hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl) or methane sulphonate. methyl, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART ^® by Henkel, Stepanquat® ^® by the company Stepan, Noxamium ^® by CECA Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

As mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of methyl diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium sulphate and 15 to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulphate, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical has from about 12 to 22 atoms, are preferred. carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or sodium aminopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL ^® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

In all the foregoing, the term "silicone" means, in accordance with the general acceptance, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of silanes. suitably functionalized, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, especially C ₁ -C ₁₀ radicals, and in particular methyl radicals, fluoroalkyl radicals whose alkyl part is C ₁ -C ₁₀ , aryl radicals and in particular phenyl radicals. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "amino silicone" means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones used in the film-form composition according to the present invention are chosen from:

(a) compounds of the following formula (V):

(R1) a (T) 3-a-Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) _b (R ¹ ) 2-b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R ¹ ) a

(V) wherein,

T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH), or C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, and preferably methyl or C ₁ -C ₅ alkoxy, preferably methoxy, a is the number 0 or a number integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 at 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and in particular from 1 to 10;

Ri is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:

-N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2) 2; -N (R2) 2; -N ⁺ (R2) ₃ Q-;

-N ⁺ (R2) (H) ₂ Q-; -N ⁺ (R2) ₂ HQ-;

-N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N ⁺ (R 2) (H) 2 Q ", wherein R may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a radical C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, and Q- represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (V) are chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (VI):

wherein R, R ', R ", identical or different, denote an alkyl radical in C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, preferably CH _3; alkoxy C ₁ - C _4, preferably methoxy; or OH; A represents a linear or branched C ₃ -C 8, preferably C ₃ -C ₆ , alkylene radical, m and n are integers dependent on molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.

According to a first possibility, R, R ', R ", identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical, A represents a C ₃ alkylene radical and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the The compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone".

According to a second possibility, R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents an alkylene radical. C ₃ . The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 10 ⁶ . More in particular, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.

In this category of compounds, mention may be made inter alia of the product Belsil®ADM 652 sold by Wacker. According to a third possibility, R, R ", different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R, R" is an alkoxy radical, R 'represents a methyl radical and A represents a radical. C3 alkylene. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1/1, 1 and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being ranging from 1 to 1000. More particularly, mention may be made of FluidWR® 1300, sold by Wacker.

It should be noted that the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 μl of a 0.5% solution are injected by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry).

A product corresponding to the definition of the formula (V) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (VII):

(CH ₃ ),

(VII) wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (V).

Such compounds are described for example in EP 95238; a compound of formula (VII) is for example sold under the name

Q2-8220 by the company OSI.

(b) the compounds of formula (VIII) below:

R - CH, - CHOH CH ₂ - N ⁺ (R ³ ) ₃ Q

R = RR ³

I

R - Si - - O - Si - O - Si - - O - Si - R ³

R = R ^J R ³ R ³

(VIII) wherein,

R ³ represents a monovalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon radical, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl radical;

R ⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially an alkylene radical C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a divalent C ₁ -

Ci s, for example C ₁ -C ₈ ;

Q ^" is a halide ion, especially chloride; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular 20 to 50. Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087.

A compound in this class is that sold by Union Carbide under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56".

c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XII):

FL - R ₈

in which :

R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₅ alkenyl radical or a 5 or 6-membered ring; carbon atoms, for example methyl;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially an alkylene radical C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a divalent C ₁ -

C ₁₈ , for example Ci-Cs connected to Si by an SiC bond;

R ₈ , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical or a C ₂ -C ₈ alkenyl radical, a radical -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;

X - is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.); r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100; These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.

The ceramide that may be contained in said composition is preferably a compound of formula (XIII) below:

in which :

- Ri denotes either a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C9-C30, this radical may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, these hydroxyl groups optionally being esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid C ₁₆ - C30 ; is a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', where R denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₁ -C ₁₀ mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals of which the sum of the carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical;

- R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical (glycosyl) _n , (galactosyl) _m or sulfogalactosyl, wherein n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 inclusive and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8 inclusive;

- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₁₆ - C27, saturated or unsaturated, this radical may be substituted by one or more alkyl radicals C ₁ -C ₁₄ ; R3 can also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical whose hydroxyl group may optionally be esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid;

- R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₇ hydrocarbon radical, or a radical -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -O-R ₆ in which R ₆ denotes a C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon radical; - R ₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₁ -

C4 mono or polyhydroxylated. The ceramides preferably used in the process of the present invention, in particular correspond to formula (I) in which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from optionally hydroxylated C 16 -C 22 fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom; and R ₃ denotes an optionally hydroxylated saturated C ₁₅ linear radical, and they are more particularly chosen from

N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-stearoylphytosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds, and more preferably from N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-2-hydroxypalmitoyl-dihydro-sphingosine and N-stearoylphytosphingosine.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.

The cationic polymers that can be used in the composition in the form of a film are preferably chosen from polymers containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that are part of the polymer chain or directly connected thereto, and that have a molecular weight. number average between 500 and about 5,000,000, and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers: (1) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylate or methacrylic esters or amides with amino functional groups, comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:

R ₅ R ₅

in which:

R 1 and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₆ , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;

X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (C 1 _{- 4} ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name Hercofloc ^® by Hercules, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in Patent Application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name

BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or non-quaternized copolymers, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat ^®" by ISP, for example, "Gafquat ^® 734" or "Gafquat ^® 755", or alternatively the products known as "Copolymer ^® 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patent Nos. 2,077,143 and

2,393,573, the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone such as the product sold under the name Gaffix ^® VC 713 by the company ISP, and - the vinylpyrrolidone / quaternized dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide such as in particular the product sold under the name " GAFQUAT ^® HS 100 "by the company ISP;

(3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

Preferably, the non-cellulosic cationic polymer is chosen from among homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide, polyammonium quaternary polymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with cationic units and polyamidoamines.

The oils of plant origin that can be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition can be chosen from vegetable oils chosen from almond, peanut, wheat germ, flax, apricot kernel, nuts, palm, pistachio, sesame, carnation, pine, castor oil, soya, avocado, safflower, coconut, hazelnut, olive, grape seed, blackcurrant seed, sunflower seed, rapeseed, cade , corn germ, peach kernels, coffee, jojoba, argan, evening primrose, borage, cotton, shea, shorea, macadamia and essential oils.

The fatty esters may be chosen from esters of a C 8 -C 30 fatty acid and of C 1 -C 30 alcohol, esters of a C 1 -C 7 acid or diacid and a C 8 -C 8 fatty alcohol. C30. Among these esters, mention may be made of palmitate of ethyl, isopropyl, 2-ethylhexyl and 2-octyldecyl, isopropyl, butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl myristate, sodium stearate. butyl and hexyl, hexyl-2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononanoate and dioctyl malate.

The conditioning agent is used in the cosmetic composition in the form of a film in an amount of from 0.1 to 99.5% by weight, preferably in an amount of from 0.3 to 90% by weight, in particular an amount ranging from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 1 to 80%, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition anhydrous. The anhydrous cosmetic composition may comprise at least one plasticizer which may be chosen from glycerine, sorbitol, mono and / or disaccharides, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, penthylene glycol or polyethylene glycol. The plasticizer can be used in a quantity ranging from

0, 1 to 40% by weight and preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film may also comprise an acidifying agent such as citric acid.

According to a variant of the invention, the cosmetic composition in the form of a film is deposited on a non-water-soluble support which is inert with respect to the composition, and with respect to the composition when it is brought into the presence fluid. Preferably, the non-water-soluble support is chosen from polyurethanes, thermoplastic elastomers of the styrene-butadiene-styrene, styrene-ethylene-butadiene-styrene, ethylene-vinyl acetate or co-ester ester type, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, silicones, sheets or metal films, such as aluminum, composite films or films comprising polytetrafluoroethylene, polyamide block polyether copolymers, polyvinylidene chloride, nylon, isobutylene-styrene elastomers, tyrene-isoprene. Such carriers are marketed in particular under the brand name: BAYDUR®, DALTOFLEX®, UROFLEX®, HYPERLAST®, DESMOPAN®, ESTANE®, LASTANE®, TEXIN®, CARIFLEX®, KRATRON®, SOLPRENE®, ELVAX®, ESCORENE®, OPTENE ®, ARNITEL®, HYTRL®, or RITEFLEX®. Alternatively, the support may be in the form of a nonwoven, in particular cellullose, viscose, cotton or synthetic fibers.

The nature and shape of the support will be appropriately chosen to allow the user to put the film in contact with the surface to be treated, to allow the massage on the surface without risk for the latter and with maximum comfort .

The thickness of the support may be between 0.01 mm and 2 mm, preferably between 0.02 and 0.2 mm.

Preferably, the film-form composition is unsupported.

The method of the invention may comprise final additional steps such as the application of a cosmetic product, a rinsing step or a drying step. In particular, the application of the cosmetic composition in film form and the liquid or fluid is preferably followed by a rinsing step.

It is also possible to carry out multiple applications of the cosmetic composition in the form of a film according to the invention in order to obtain a superposition of layers to achieve properties. Deposition specific in terms of chemical nature, mechanical strength, thickness, appearance, touch.

In particular, according to one embodiment of the method, it is possible to apply successively to fibers having been previously treated a first cosmetic composition in the form of a film in accordance with the invention, to apply a second cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and at least one conditioning agent different from that included in the first composition and bringing the fibers thus treated into contact with an aqueous liquid or a fluid comprising water vapor.

The present invention also relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and at least one cationic conditioning agent chosen from quaternary ammonium salts and amino silicones.

According to the invention, the anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film dissolves in the presence of an aqueous liquid or a fluid comprising water vapor. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or kit, comprising a first compartment (A) comprising an aqueous liquid and a second compartment (B) comprising at least one anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one film-forming polymer water-soluble or water-dispersible and at least one conditioning agent.

Preferably, the multi-compartment device or kit may comprise a third compartment comprising at least a second anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and at least one conditioning agent different from that included in the present invention. first anhydrous cosmetic composition. The examples which follow are intended to illustrate the invention, without being limiting in nature.

I. Examples of preparing a film

Example 1

An anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of film (A) according to the invention was prepared from the following compounds:

Modified starch sold under the name Amaze by the company National Starch & Chemicals 35% Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the name

PVP K-90 by the company ISP 55%

• Propylene glycol 5%

Quaternium 80 sold at 60% M.a. in propylene glycol under the name ABIL QUAT 3272 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 5%

The ingredients are dissolved in water by stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The mixture is then coated on a silicone support in a small thickness and quickly dried under an air flow tunnel at 80 ^° C. The film thus formed is separated from the silicone support and then cut into unit films of 15 cm × 15 cm and thickness of about 0.1 millimeter.

EXAMPLE 2 An anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of film (B) according to the invention was prepared from the following compounds:

Modified starch sold under the name AMAZE by National Starch & Chemicals 38.5% • Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the name

PVP K-90 by the company ISP 55%

• Propylene glycol 5%

Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride sold in 25% aqueous solution of M.A. under the name Dehyquart A OR by the company COGNIS 0.5%

• Polyquaternium-6 sold in aqueous solution containing 40% of MA under the name MERQUAT 100 of NALCO 0.5%

• Citric acid 0.2% • Polysorbate 20 0.3%

The ingredients are dissolved in water by stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The mixture is then coated on a silicone support in a small thickness and quickly dried under an air flow tunnel at 80 ^° C. The film thus formed is dry and separated from the silicone support and then cut into 15 cm single films.

15 cm thick and about 0, 1 millimeter.

II. Example of application of a film on permanent hair

1. Operating procedure

The hair-like anhydrous cosmetic composition described in Example 2 is applied to hair which has been previously permanent and then rinsed and dewatered. During this application, the hair is carefully coated with the cosmetic composition in the form of a film.

The hair is then placed in contact with a device for vapor diffusion of an aqueous fluid for a period of 10 minutes at a temperature equal to 45 ^° C. After diffusion of the vapor, it is observed that the film melted in the hair. The hair is then rinsed and dried.

This process was performed on 6 people with hair that was previously permanent and then rinsed and wrung out.

2. Results

An expert evaluated the softness as well as the design and tone of curls on permanent hair after treatment and without treatment. The notation goes from 0 to 5 and an average of notes has been calculated. The results are summarized in the table below.

Permanent hair having been treated with an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film and brought into contact with a fluid comprising water vapor according to the process according to the invention are softer and the hair curls are more tonic and much better only for permanent hair that has not been treated. III. Example of application of a film on conditioned hair

1. Operating procedure

A cosmetic composition of conditioner is applied to damaged damp hair. We do not rinse the hair after this operation. The anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film described in Example 1 is then applied. During this application, the hair is carefully coated with the cosmetic composition in the form of a film.

The hair is then placed in contact with a device for vapor diffusion of an aqueous fluid for a period of 10 minutes at a temperature equal to 45 ^° C. After diffusion of the vapor, it is observed that the film has melted into the hair . The hair is then rinsed and dried.

This process was carried out on 6 people with damaged wet hair.

2. Results

An expert evaluated shine, discipline and styling effect on damaged wet hair after treatment and before treatment (i.e., hair on which a conditioner was just applied). The notation goes from 0 to 5 and an average of notes has been calculated. The results are summarized in the table below.

The damaged wet hair that has been treated with a shampooing composition and then with an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film is brighter, more disciplined and has a styling effect that is greater than the same treatment that does not include a step of applying a cosmetic composition in the form of a film according to the invention.

Claims

1. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, characterized in that it comprises: a first step of treatment of the keratinous fibers,

a second treatment step of applying to said fibers an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer having a solubility in water measured at 25 ° C. of at least 0, 1 gram / liter and at least one conditioning agent and contacting the thus treated fibers with an aqueous liquid or with a fluid comprising water vapor; said anhydrous composition comprising a water content of less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Treatment process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fluid comprising water vapor and optionally liquid water or that the aqueous liquid further comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents.

3. Treatment process according to claim 1, characterized in that the fluid comprises only water vapor.

4. Treatment process according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fluid has a temperature greater than at least 35 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 40 ⁰ C, and even more preferably has a temperature between 45 ° C and 150 ^° C.

5. Treatment process according to claim 1, characterized in that aqueous liquid is water.

6. Treatment process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the liquid or the fluid is brought into contact with said fibers and the water-soluble film for a period of between 1 minute and 120 minutes, preferably during a duration between 5 and 60 minutes and even more preferably for a period ranging from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

7. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said fibers are brought into contact with the aqueous liquid or with the fluid comprising water vapor simultaneously or sequentially with the application of said anhydrous cosmetic composition.

8. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step of treatment of keratinous fibers consists of a staining or decolouring process, a method of fixing and / or maintaining the hairstyle, a permanent, a straightening, a method of care or a washing process.

9. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a possible pause time between the first step and the second step of treatment of keratinous fibers.

10. Treatment process according to claim 9, characterized in that the pause time is between 10 seconds and one hour, preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes, and even more preferably between 1 minute and 15 minutes.

1. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film is applied to the keratin fibers immediately after the first treatment step.

12. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a possible exposure time for the first step of treatment of keratinous fibers.

13. The method of treatment according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a further step of rinsing the keratinous fibers between the first step and the second step of treating the keratinous fibers.

14. The treatment method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer or polymers are chosen from protein-type polymers, polymers derived from chitin or chitosan, saccharide polymers, acrylic polymers or copolymers, vinyl polymers, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam and mixtures thereof.

15. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer or polymers is or are present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from from 5 to 95% by weight, more preferably in a content ranging from 10 to 90% by weight and even more preferably in a content ranging from 60 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. The treatment method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the conditioning agent (s) is (are) chosen from a quaternary ammonium salt, an aminosilicone, a non-cellulosic cationic polymer, a non-cellulosic plant origin, a ceramide and a fatty ester.

17. The treatment method as claimed in claim 16, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from: those which have the following general formula (I):

y N s X-

R ₉ R ₁₁

(I)

wherein the Rs to Rn radicals, which may be the same or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C2-C6) sulfates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates;

quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline;

the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (II):

++

^R 17 ^R 19

R ₁₆ -N- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -NR ₂₁ 2X-

^R l 8 ^R 20

(H)

in which R ₁₆ denotes an aliphatic radical containing about 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R 17, R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates;

the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function.

18. The treatment method as claimed in claim 17, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium salts are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function of formula (IV) below:

in which :

R23 is selected from:

O II

the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R _7x - C -

- the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R ₂ 8, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals, C ₇ -C ₂₁ linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ^" is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29.

19. The treatment method as claimed in claim 18, characterized in that the radical R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1 and r, s and t are equal to 2, the radical R 23 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₆ - C -

methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals,

- the hydrogen atom; the radical R25 is chosen from:

O II

the radical R ₂₈ - C -

- the hydrogen atom; the radicals R24, R26 and R ₂ s, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl radicals; , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

20. Treatment process according to claim 16, characterized in that the amino silicone is chosen from: a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):

(R1) _a (T) 3-a-Si [OSi (T) 2] n- [OSi (T) b (R ¹ ) 2-b] m-OSi (T) 3-a- (R ¹ ) a

in which: T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl or C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, and preferably methyl, or C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, preferably methyl, a denotes the number 0 or a whole number; from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2,000, and especially from 1 to 10;

R ¹ is a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL wherein q is a number from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2) 2;

-N (R2) 2;

-N ⁺ (R2) ₃ Q-; -N ⁺ (R2) (H) ₂ Q-; -N ⁺ (R2) ₂ HQ-; -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N ⁺ (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, wherein R ² may denote a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical, and Q- represents a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. b) silicones corresponding to the following formula (VIII): R ⁴ - CH ₂ CHOH CH ₂ - N ⁺ (R ³ ) ₃ Q

R ^; RR ^ά

I

R ³ - Si - O - Si - O - Si - O - Si - R ³

R ³ R ^J R ³ R ³

(VIII) wherein,

R ⁴ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially an alkylene radical C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a divalent C ₁ - Cis, for example C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl;

Q- is a halide ion, especially chloride; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8; s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular 20 to 50. c) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XII):

R ₈ -

in which :

R ₇ , which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₈ alkenyl radical or a 5 or 6-membered ring; carbon atoms;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, especially an alkylene radical Ci-Ci ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a divalent C ₁ - Ci _8; Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, a radical -R6-NHCOR7; X- is an anion such as a halide ion or an organic acid salt; r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100;

21. Treatment process according to claim 16, characterized in that the ceramide is a compound of formula (XIII) below:

GOLD,

II I ³

R ₁ - CN - CH-CH-O -R ₂

⁴ (XIII)

in which: - Ri denotes either a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C9-C30, this radical may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, these hydroxyl groups optionally being esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid C ₁₆ - C30; is a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', where R denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₁ -C ₁₀ mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals of which the sum of the carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical;

- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₁₆ - C27, saturated or unsaturated, this radical may be substituted by one or more alkyl radicals C ₁ -C ₁₄ ; R3 can also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical whose hydroxyl group may optionally be esterified with a C16-C30 α-hydroxy acid; R ₄ denotes a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₆ -C ₂₇ hydrocarbon-based radical, or a -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -O-Re radical in which R ₆ denotes a C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon radical; ;

- R ₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C ₁ - C ₄ mono or polyhydroxylated.

22. The method of treatment according to claim 21, characterized in that the ceramide is a compound of formula (XIII) wherein R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 16 -C 22 fatty acids optionally hydroxylated; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R ₃ denotes an optionally hydroxylated saturated C ₁₅ linear radical.

23. Treatment process according to claim 20, characterized in that the ceramide is chosen from:

N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine,

N-2-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoylphytosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.

24. The treatment method as claimed in claim 16, characterized in that the oils of plant origin are chosen from almond, peanut, wheat germ, flax, apricot kernel and walnut oils. palm, pistachio, sesame, carnation, pine, castor oil, soya, avocado, safflower, coconut, hazelnut, olive, grape seed, blackcurrant seed, sunflower, colza, cade, corn germ, peach kernels, coffee, jojoba, argan, evening primrose, borage, cotton, shea, shorea, macadamia and essential oils .

25. The treatment method as claimed in claim 16, characterized in that the non-cellulosic cationic polymer is chosen from among homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium halide and polyammonium quaternary polymers. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with cationic units and polyamidoamines.

26. The treatment method as claimed in claim 16, characterized in that the fatty ester is chosen from ethyl, isopropyl, ethyl-2-hexyl and 2-octyldecyl palmitate, and isopropyl myristate. butyl, cetyl and 2-octyldecyl, butyl and hexyl stearate, hexyl and 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononanoate and dioctyl malate.

27. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the conditioning agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 99.5% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 0, 3 to 90% by weight, in particular in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably in an amount ranging from 1 to 80%, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

28. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition comprises at least one plasticizer.

29. Treatment process according to claim 28, characterized in that the plasticizer is selected from glycerin, sorbitol, mono and / or disaccharides, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, penthylene glycol or polyethylene glycol.

30. Treatment process according to claim 28 or 29, characterized in that the plasticizer is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight and preferably in a quantity ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the anhydrous cosmetic composition.

31. Treatment process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film has a thickness ranging from 10 to 1000 microns, preferably from 20 to 500 microns, and even more preferably from 50 to 300 microns. .

32. The method of treatment according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition Anhydrous cosmetic comprises a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

33. The method of treatment according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a film is free of a water-insoluble support layer.

34. A multi-compartment device or kit comprising a first compartment (A) comprising an aqueous liquid and a second compartment (B) comprising at least one anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and at least one conditioning agent.

35. Multi-compartment device or kit according to claim 34, characterized in that it comprises a third compartment comprising at least a second anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a water-soluble film comprising at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming polymer and at least one agent different from that included in the first anhydrous cosmetic composition.