WO2009095808A1 - A cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium flakes comprising at least one fluorescent agent, entrapped in an hybride matrix comprising at least one metal oxide, at least one hydrophobic group linked to the at least one metal oxide and at least one organic surfactant.

Description

A COSMETIC COMPOSITION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for application to keratinous substances, for example the skin, hair, lips, nails or eyelashes.

Background

Fluorescent materials are very important to the cosmetics industry. They can produce very brilliant, very lively colors which cannot be produced with conventional coloring substances. Of the various available fluorescent materials, fluorescent organic molecules are the most effective as regards intensity of fluorescence. Their use can produce highly fluorescent compositions containing a small quantity of fluorescent agent.

Said organic molecules are, however, difficult to formulate as they are generally soluble in a very limited number of solvents. Their intensity of fluorescence may also depend greatly on the solvent used in the formulation and they are strongly fluorescent in only a small number of solvents. Thus, they are of limited possible use in cosmetic formulations. They may also present problems with safety when they come into contact with keratinous substances.

In order to overcome those disadvantages, the encapsulation of organic molecules in various organic matrices (US-A-6 586 013) or inorganic matrices (JP-06-47273 and JP-08-239310) has been envisaged. However, all of the matrices used until now are porous to a certain extent and allow the molecule to diffuse outwardly. That molecule can thus find its way into the continuous liquid medium of the formulation, which may result in contact with the keratinous substances. WO 04/0812222 discloses a method of preparing substantially leachless, agent- encapsulating sol-gel particles. The method comprises emulsifying an inner phase containing at least one agent and at least one first sol-gel precursor in an outer phase containing a dispersing medium, for obtaining initial sol-gel particles encapsulating the at least one agent, and reacting the initial sol-gel particles with at least one second sol-gel precursor, thereby obtaining the substantially leachless, agent-encapsulating sol-gel particles. The particles that are obtained are spherical and of small size. A surfactant is used to make the emulsion and is washed and does not form part of the particles.

WO 05/009604 discloses microcapsules having a core material encapsulated within a microcapsular shell. The core material comprises at least one active ingredient, and the microcapsular shell comprises at least one inorganic polymer comprising polymerized precursors obtained by in-situ polymerization of said precursors.

US 2007/0077216 Al assigned to the applicant discloses a cosmetic composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, fluorescent particles comprising molecules of at least one fluorescent organic compound trapped inside a matrix at least partially formed by at least one metal oxide, said composition comprising less than

100 mg/1 of said fluorescent organic compound or compounds dissolved in a liquid phase of the medium. The matrix may also include a small proportion of organic groups such as phenyl or alkyl groups. The function of said organic groups is to create an interaction, for example via Van der Waals forces or hydrogen bonds, with the fluorescent organic molecules to limit their discharge into the medium of the formulation.

Summary

There is a need to further improve particles in which a fluorescent agent, for example a fluorescent dye, is entrapped in order to obtain particles with no bleeding and with good optical properties, for example good fluorescent properties, with many kinds of organic fluorescent molecules.

Exemplary embodiments of the present invention thus provide a cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium flakes comprising at least one fluorescent agent, for example a fluorescent dye, entrapped in a hybrid matrix comprising at least one metal oxide, at least one hydrophobic group linked to the at least one metal oxide, and at least one organic acid.

The flakes of the invention have a very low bleeding level in any kind of solvent currently used in cosmetics. The flakes according to the present invention are preferably obtained thanks to a sol-gel method. Surfactant

The flakes comprise in the matrix at least one organic surfactant. The organic surfactant is advantageously used in the process to better disperse the fluorescent agent inside the matrix. It will also reduce the amount of bleeding and create also hydrophobic environment around the fluorescent agent.

The surfactant interacts and disperses the fluorescent agent inside the matrix. In order to avoid bleeding phenomenon the formation of a ionic complex between the fluorescent agent and surfactant is advantageous. The organic surfactant may also enhance fluorescence fluorescent agent.

In the case of cationic surfactant, alkyl betaine, tetraalkylammonium salt or heterocyclic ammonium salt are preferred.

Examples of these cationic surfactants are sold under the commercial name DEHYQUART (COGNIS), QUARTAMIN (Kao) ARQUAD (Akzo Nobel). In the case of aminoacid derivative surfactant, alkyl subtstituted amino acids, acylated amino acid or alkoxylated amino acids are preferred.

Preferred natural amino acids include glutamate, sarcosinate, glycinate, lysine. Most preferred aminoacid is glutamate.

The amino-acid derivative surfactant may be present under a non ionic, anionic or amphoteric form in the flakes. Typical commercial examples of these surfactants could be found in the PYROTER range of product from NIHON EMULSION or AMISOFT range from AJINOMOTO.

Preferred surfactants are PYROTER GPI 25 (POE25 Glyceryl Monopyro glutamate Monoisostearate) from NIHON EMULSION and AMISOFT HSI l PF (Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate) from AJINOMOTO.

A mixture of surfactant could also be used inside the flakes. For example, a mixture of cationic surfactant and amino-acid derivative surfactant may be used.

Weight content of surfactant within the flakes may be between 0.01% and 50%, preferably between 0.1% and 40 %, most preferably 1 to 30 %. Organic acid

The matrix may comprise an organic acid. The organic acid may be a monoacid, a diacid or a triacid. The organic acid is advantageously used in the sol gel process as a catalyst to hydrolysis and condensation instead of usual inorganic acids such as hydrogen chloride or nitric acid. It will further help to create a hydrophobic environment inside the matrix together with the at least one organic groups linked to the metal oxide.

Thanks to the presence of the hydrophobic groups and organic acid less than lOOmg/1 of the organic compound may be dissolved in a liquid phase of the medium. This amount could be determined with a centrifugation methods defined below.

The organic acid may also enhance fluorescence of the fluorescent agent. Preferably the organic acid is selected in the group constituted of carboxylic acid, sulfonic and amino acids and combinations thereof, preferably carboxylic and natural amino acids.

The organic acid may be selected from the group consisting of adipic acid, ascorbic acid, benzoic acid, oleic acid, caprylic acid, citric acid, glycyrhizinic acid, gluconic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, salicylic acid, tartaric acid, steraric acid, cerinic acid, sorbic acid, tannic acid, dehydroacetic acid, nicotinic acid, palmitic acid, phytic acid, propionic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, meleic acid, linoleic acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, formic acid, fumaric acid, and oxalic acid, and combination thereof.

Most preferably, the organic acid is selected from the group consisting of formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, sorbic acid, glutamic acid and gluconic acid.

The organic acid may be present in neutral form or in salt form, preferably ammonium, sodium or potassium salt.

The weight amount of the at least one organic acid in the particles may range from 0,01 and 20%, preferably 0,1 and 5%.

Particles The shapes of particles are preferably flakes, for example hybrid silica flakes.

An advantage of flakes compared to spherical particles is that they may adhere better to the skin or other keratinous material in which the composition is applied. The specific surface of ftakes is higher than for spherical particles.

The means thickness of the flakes may range from 0.1 μm to 15μm, preferably from 0.1 to lOμm. The mean length of the flakes may range from 0,lμm to 5mm, preferably 1 to 500μm. The aspect ratio (mean length A/ mean thickness T) may range from 2 to 1000.

The flakes may be present in a composition of the invention at a weight concentration in the range 0.5% to 95%, preferably in the range 1% to 70%, more preferably in the range 5% to 30%.

The absorption of oil from the flakes used in a composition of the invention is preferably very low. Typically, it is in the range 10 ml/10Og [milliliters per 100 grams] to 300 ml/100g, preferably in the range 20 ml/10Og to 150 ml/100g.

Fluorescent agent

The fluorescent agent is preferably an organic fluorescent molecule.

Fluorescent organic molecule may have different chemical natures and may or may not be colored.

For example, molecules of the fluorescein, pyrazine, coumarin, naphthalimide, triazine, oxazine, dioxazine, sulforhodamine, azo compound, azomethinic compound, stilbene derivative, oxazole derivative, benzoxazole, imidazole or pyrene families can be used in the present invention.

The fluorescent molecules may be hydrosoluble, liposoluble, or soluble in other solvents such as alcohols.

The fluorescent molecules of the invention are preferably completely or partially hydrosoluble, i.e. soluble in water at a concentration of at least 1 mg/1 [milligram per liter] preferably at least 10 mg/1.

The fluorescent agent may be in the flakes in a weight amount ranging from 0,01 to 50%, preferably 0,1 to 20% most preferably 0,5 to 5%.

The fluorescent agent may also be an optical whitening agent absorbing light between 300 nm [nanometers] and 400 nm and emitting light between 400 nm and 700 nm, preferably between 400 nm and 500 nm. Such optical whitening agents are commercially available from Ciba Specialty Chemicals from the Uvitex® or Tinopal® range, from CLARIANT from the Leucophor® range, from Bayer Chemicals from the Blankophor® range or from BASF from the Ultraphor® range.

The fluorescent agent may also be colored molecules, which may be selected in the FDA list: D&C Yellow 7, 8, 10, 11, D&C Red 3, 21, 322, 27, 28, D&C Green 5, 6, 8, D&C Orange 5, D&C Violet 2, and ext D&C Violet 2.

The fluorescent agent may also be a ultraviolet filter, a photochrome or thermochrome agent.

Matrix To obtain a transparent matrix, a silicon alkoxide is preferably used. The silicon alkoxide contains at least one Si (OR) group in which the organic group R is preferably an alkyl chain containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

The matrix used in a composition of the invention is insoluble in the continuous medium of the composition. The flakes are thus insensitive to the solvents and to temperature conditions.

Advantageously, less than 2%, preferably less than 1% and more preferably less than 0,5% by weight of fluorescent agent contained in the matrix is discharged after the flakes containing them have been left for at least one hour in the liquid phase in which fluorescent agent is soluble. The liquid phase is at a temperature of 25°C. The concentration of the flakes in the medium is 1% by weight relative to the weight of the liquid phase. With such discharge-free properties, the liquid phase in which the fluorescent agent is soluble preferably contains less than 100 mg/1 of fluorescent agent dissolved in the continuous medium, preferably less than 50 mg/1 and more preferably less than 10 mg/1.

The matrix contains at least one hydrophobic group linked to the at least one metal oxide. The hydrophobic group is preferably chosen in the list consisting of alkyl, phenyl, alkylhalide, vinyl or glycidoxy groups and combinations thereof, preferably in the list consisting of methyl, ethyl and propyl groups.

Additional compounds A composition of the invention may contain one or more additional compounds selected from those described hereafter. Polyglycerolated Silicone Elastomer

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen atom linked to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds containing ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogen atoms linked to different silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, especially in order to have good miscibility with compound (B).

The organic groups linked to silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. The said organic group is preferably chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, or dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups. Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to formula (B') below: C_1nH_21n._!- O-[Gly]n-C_mH_2m_₁ (B') in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferably ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; GIy denotes: -CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂-O- or -CH₂-CH(CH₂OH)-O-

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1. Compound (C) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1,000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1,000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer may be conveyed in gel form in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830" and "KSG-840" by the company Shin-Etsu. The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to

40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to

20% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight based on the weight of the composition.

Additional Emulsifying Silicone Elastomer

The composition according to the invention may comprise an additional emulsifying silicone elastomer different from the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer described above.

The term "emulsifying silicone elastomer" means a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain other than a polyglycerolated chain as described above.

In particular, the additional emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers. The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (Cl) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patents U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups linked to silicon atoms of the compound (Al) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2- phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (Al) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane- laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (Cl) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si — H bonds of a polysiloxane. The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon- based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non- spherical particles.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in patents U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487.

Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", "KSG-32", "KSG-33", "KSG- 210", "KSG-310", "KSG-320", "KSG-330", "KSG-340" and "X-226146" by the company Shin-Etsu, or "DC9010" and "DC9011" by the company Dow Corning. The additional emulsifying silicone elastomer may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight based on the weight of the composition.

Non-Emulsifying Spherical Silicone Elastomer

The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-emulsifying spherical silicone elastomer. The term "non-emulsifying" defines elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.

The non-emulsifying spherical silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking coupling reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin compound; or by a crosslinking coupling reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high- energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam. Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patent application EP0295886A. In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of a catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane- methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethy lsilo xane-methy lpheny lsilo xane-methy lvinylsilo xane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3- trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogens linked to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for the compound (A2).

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.

Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure, especially of linear-chain or branched-chain structure, or cyclic structure.

Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, especially in order to have good miscibility with compound (A).

It is advantageous for compound (B2) to be added in an amount such that the molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all of the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefm complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in from 0.1 to 1,000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1,000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).

Other organic groups may be linked to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles. The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles may also be in powder form, especially in the form of spherical powder.

Non-emulsifying spherical silicone elastomers are especially described in patent applications JP61-194009 A, EP0242219 A, EP0285886 A and EP0765656 A.

Non-emulsifying spherical silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names "DC 9040", "DC 9041", "DC 9509", "DC 9505" and "DC 9506" by the company Dow Corning.

The non-emulsifying spherical silicone elastomer may also be in the form of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,538,793, the entire content of which is herein incorporated by reference. Such elastomers are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104" and "KSP-105" by the company Shin-Etsu.

Other elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold especially under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin-Etsu; hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, sold especially under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin-Etsu. The non-emulsifying spherical silicone elastomer may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 75% by weight and preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Moisturizer

The composition according to the invention may comprise a moisturizer, in particular a moisturizer that is miscible with water at 25° C. The moisturizer may especially be a polyhydric alcohol chosen in particular from polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. The moisturizer may be chosen, for example, from glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol and 1,2,6-hexanetriol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol Cl-C4)alkyl ethers and mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Cl-C4)alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.

The moisturizer may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight and preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Film-Forming Polymers

The term "film- forming polymer", in general, means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous film that adheres to a support, especially to keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that the said film may be isolated from the said support.

In one embodiment, the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer chosen from the group comprising: . film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil; . film- forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium, in particular polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone oils or in hydrocarbon-based oils; in one embodiment, the nonaqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized at their surface with at least one stabilizer;

. film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often known as "lattices"; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase;

. water-soluble film-forming polymers; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. Among the film- forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type; polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. Film-forming polymers that may be mentioned in particular include acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose-based polymers, for instance nitrocellulose, silicone polymers, in particular silicone resins and silicone-grafted acrylic polymers.

Film-forming polymers are especially described in the international patent application filed under the number PCT/FR03/02849.

The film-forming polymer may be a film-forming linear ehtylenic block polymer, advantageously without styrene.

More preferably, the block polymer comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked together by the way of an intermediary block, comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer at the second block.

Preferably, the block polymer has a polydispersity index I greater than 2. Also preferably, first and second blocks are incompatible one to each other. The term "ethylenic polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising an ethylenic insaturation. The term "block polymer" means a polymer comprising at least two different blocks, preferably at least three different blocks. Such a block polymer is described in the French patent application deposed under No. 03 11337.

The film-forming polymer may also be under the form of a particles dispersion, preferably solid, of a grafted ethylenic polymer in a fatty liquid phase. Such a dispersion is in particular described in international patent application deposed under No. PCT/FR03/03709.

The term "grafted polymer" means a polymer having a skeleton comprising at least a pendant lateral chain or situated in the end of the chain, and preferably pendant.

Advantageously, the grafted ethylenic polymer comprises an ethylenic skeleton insoluble in said fatty liquid phase, and lateral chains bounded in covalent manner to said skeleton and soluble in said dispersible medium.

The film- forming polymer may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0,1% to 60% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0,1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 0,5% to 20% by weight, and still more preferably from 0,5% to 10% by weight.

Sunscreens

The composition according to the invention may comprise a photoprotective system capable of screening out UV radiation. According to the invention, the photoprotective system may consist of one or more organic screening agents and/or one or more mineral (nano)pigments.

The organic screening agents are chosen especially from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,367,390, and patent applications EP 0 863 145, EP 0 517 104, EP 0 570 838, EP 0 796 851, EP 0 775 698, EP

0 878 469, EP 0 933 376, EP 0 507 691, EP 0 507 692, EP 0 790 243, EP 0 944 624; benzophenone derivatives; β,β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 0 669 323 A and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264; p- aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in patents or patent applications U.S. Pat. No. 5,237,071, U.S. Pat.

No. 5,166,355, GB 2,303,549,. DE 197 26 184 and EP 0 893 119; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described especially in patent application WO93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 1 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents, mention may be made of those denoted hereinbelow under their INCl name:

Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives • PABA,

• Ethyl PABA,

• Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

• Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "Escalol 507" by ISP, • Glyceryl PABA,

• PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF.

Salicylic Derivatives

• Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries, • Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer,

• Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "Dipsal" by Scher,

• TEA salicylate sold under the name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.

Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives

• Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann LaRoche,

• Isopropyldibenzoylmethane. Cinnamic Derivatives

• Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann LaRoche,

• Isopropyl methoxycinnamate, • Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan E

1000" by Haarmann and Reimer,

• Cinoxate,

• DEA methoxycinnamate,

• Diisopropyl methylcinnamate, • Glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

β,β-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives

• Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N539" by BASF, • Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul N35" by BASF.

Benzophenone Derivatives:

• Benzophenone- 1 sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400" by BASF,

• Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "Uvinul D50" by BASF, • Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name "Uvinul M40" by BASF,

• Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF,

• Benzophenone-5,

• Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay, • Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by

American Cyanamid,

• Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF,

• Benzophenone- 12,

• n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate. Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives

• 3 -Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex,

• 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck,

• Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex,

• Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex, • Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid manufactured under the name

"Mexoryl SX" by Chimex,

• Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.

Benzimidazole Derivatives

• Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck,

• Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Haarmann and Reimer.

Triazine Derivatives

• Anisotriazine sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by Ciba Specialty Chemicals,

• Ethylhexyltriazone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T 150" by BASF,

• Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V.

• 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine.

Benzotriazole Derivatives

• Drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie, • Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form under the trade name "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trade name "Tinosorb M" by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

Anthranilic Derivatives

• Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.

Imidazoline Derivatives • Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazo line propionate.

Benzalmalonate Derivatives

• Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann LaRoche

4,4-Diarylbutadiene Derivatives

• 1,1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

• and mixtures thereof.

The organic screening agents that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following compounds:

• Ethylhexyl salicylate,

• Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

• Octocrylene, • Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid,

• Benzophenone-3,

• Benzophenone-4,

• Benzophenone-5,

• n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, • 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,

• Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid,

• Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, • 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

• Anisotriazine,

• Ethylhexyltriazone,

• Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, • Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol,

• Drometrizole trisiloxane,

• 1,1 -Dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

• and mixtures thereof.

The mineral screening agents are chosen from pigments or even nanopigments

(mean size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides such as, for example, nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron oxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide, which are all UV photoprotective agents that are well known per se. Standard coating agents are, moreover, alumina and/or aluminum stearate. Such coated or uncoated metal oxide nanopigments are described in particular in patent applications EP0518772 A and EP0518773 A.

The photoprotective system may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Fibers

The composition may also contain fibers.

The term "fiber" should be understood as meaning an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is greater than D and preferably very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle within which the cross section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L/D (or shape factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500 and better still from 5 to 150.

Examples of fibers that may be used in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to, those of synthetic, natural, mineral or organic origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, hollow or solid. They may have any shape and may especially have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the intended specific application. In particular, their ends are blunted and/or polished to prevent injury.

In particular, those fibers having a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm, are used. Their cross section may be within a circle of diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from

100 nm to 100 μm and better still from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or yarn count of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of yarn. The fibers according to the invention preferably have a yarn count chosen in the range of from 0.01 to 10 denier, preferably from 0.1 to 2 denier, and more preferably from 0.3 to 0.7 denier.

Examples of suitable fibers include, but are not limited to, those described in the French patent application filed under the number 0450074 and patent applications FR2844710 A and EP 1201221 A.

The fibers may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Oils

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one oil. The oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils.

The oil may be chosen from volatile oils and non- volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups. The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom and especially containing Si — O groups.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or a non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150° C. to 260° C. and preferably ranging from 170° C. to 250° C.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrocarbon-based volatile oil chosen especially from hydrocarbon-based oils with a flash point ranging from 40° C. to 102° C, preferably ranging from 40° C. to 55° C. and preferably ranging from 40° C. to 50° C. Hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and especially C8- C16 branched alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C8-C16 branched esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isododecane.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear or cyclic silicones containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0,1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 1% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non- volatile oil. Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used include, but are not limited to, liquid paraffin (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, beauty- leaf oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil; esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid or of stearic acid; fatty esters, especially of C12-C36, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, and glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially of C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.

The non volatile oil may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0,1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 0,5% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 50% by weight.

Structuring Agents

The term "structuring agent" means a compound capable of increasing the viscosity of the composition. The structuring agent makes it possible especially to obtain a composition that can have a texture ranging from fluid to solid textures.

Examples of suitable structuring agents include, but are not limited to, thickeners (aqueous-medium thickeners; oily-medium thickeners), organogelling agents, waxes, pasty compounds and gums.

Suitable aqueous-medium thickeners include, but are not limited to:

• hydrophilic clays,

• hydrophilic fumed silica, • water-soluble cellulose-based thickeners,

• carob gum, scleroglucan gum, gellan gum, or rhamsan gum,

• maltodextrins, starch and their derivatives,

• polyglyceryl (meth)acrylate polymers sold under the names "Hispagel" or "Lubragel" by the companies Hispano Qimica or Guardian, • crosslinked acrylamide polymers and copolymers, such as those sold under the names "PAS 5161" or "Bozepol C" by the company Hoechst, "Sepigel 305" by the company SEPPIC, • crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymers sold under the name "Salcare SC95" by the company Allied Colloid,

• associative polymers and especially associative polyurethanes.

Such thickeners are described especially in patent application EP 1400234 A, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

Suitable oily-medium thickeners include, but are not limited to:

• organophilic clays;

• hydrophobic fumed silicas;

• alkyl guar gums (with a C1-C6 alkyl group), such as those described in EP0708114 A,

• polymers having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000, comprising: a) a polymer skeleton containing hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing at least one hetero atom and, optionally, b) at least one pendent fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, which are optionally functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in patent applications WO02/056847 and WO02/47619; in particular, polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,783,657; • the silicone-based polyamide resins as described in patent application

EP 1266647 A and in the French patent application filed under the number 0216039. Such thickeners are especially described in patent application EP 1400234 A. The organogelling agents may be chosen from those described in patent application WO03/105788. The organogelling agents that may be used in the composition disclosed herein may be, for example, chosen from those described in the document "Specialist Surfactants" edited by D. Robb, 1997, pp. 209-263, Chapter 8 by P. Terech, European patent applications EP-A-I 068 854 and EP-A-I 086 945, or alternatively in patent application WO-A-02/47031. Mention may be made, for example, among these organogelling agents, of amides of carboxylic acids, such as tricarboxylic acids, for instance cyclohexanetricarboxamides (see European patent application EP-A-I 068 854), diamides with hydrocarbon-based chains each comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the hydrocarbon-based chains may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one substituent chosen from ester, urea and fluoro groups (see patent application EP-A-I 086 945) and, for example, diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, such as diaminocyclohexane in trans form, and of an acid chloride, for instance N₅N'- bis(dodecanoyl)-l,-2-diaminocyclohexane, N-acylamino acid amides, for instance the diamides resulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance those described in document WO-93/23008 the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference and such as N-acylglutamic acid amides in which the acyl group is a C8 to C22 alkyl chain, such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide, manufactured or sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name GP-I, and mixtures thereof.

Structuring agents may also include waxes. The term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25° C)₅ with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C₅ which may be up to 120° C. By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to render it miscible with any oils present and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.

The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20° C. using a texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, traveling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

Examples of suitable waxes include, but are not limited to, hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30° C. and better still greater than 45° C. As waxes that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of beeswax, camauba wax or candelilla wax, paraffin, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite; synthetic waxes, for instance polyethylene wax or Fischer-Tropsch wax, silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms.

Gums may also be used as viscosifying agents. These gums may be high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or cellulose gums or polysaccharides, and the pasty substances are generally hydrocarbon-based compounds, for instance lanolins and derivatives thereof, or PDMSs.

The viscosifying agents may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1.% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and most preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition

Aqueous Phase The composition may employ an aqueous phase comprised of water, or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvent(s), for instance alcohols and especially, linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and polyols, for instance glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, or alternatively hydrophilic C2 ethers and C2-C4 aldehydes.

The water or the mixture of water and of hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1% to 95% by weight and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Non-crosslinked Surfactant

The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one non- crosslinked surfactant, so long as it is not chosen from polyglycerolated non-crosslinked silicone-based surfactants. The non-crosslinked surfactant may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric non-crosslinked surfactants.

The nonionic non-crosslinked surfactant may be chosen from: • a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polymethyl (C8-C22)alkyl dimethyl methyl siloxane.

The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of formula (I) below:

in which:

• PE represents (— C2H4O)x— (C3H6O)y— R, R being chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not simultaneously being 0

• m ranging from 1 to 40

• n ranging from 10 to 200

• o ranging from 1 to 100

• p ranging from 7 to 21 • q ranging from 0 to 4 and preferably:

• R=H

• m=l to 10

• n=10to 100 • o=l to 30

• p=15

• q=3.

A C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol that may be mentioned is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by the company Goldschmidt. • a dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxane. It contains no alkyl groups with a chain length of more than 8 carbon atoms, especially C8-C22.

Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those corresponding to formula (II) below:

in which: • Rl, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a radical — (CH2)x— (OCH2CH2)y— (OCH2CH2CH2)z— OR4, at least one radical Rl, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2- C4 acyl radical;

• A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; • B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;

• x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

• y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

• z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (II), Rl=R3=methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R4 is in particular a hydrogen.

Examples of compounds of formula (II) that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (III):

(CHs)₃SiO - [(CH₃)₂Si0]_A - (CH₃SiO)_B - Si(CH₃)₃

I (HI)

(CH₂)₂-(OCH₂CH₂)_y-OH in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

Examples of silicone compounds of formula (II) that may also be mentioned include the compounds of formula (IV): HO - (CH₂CH₂O)y-(CH₂)₃ - [(CHs)₂SiO]A' - [(CHs)₂Si] - (CH₂)₃ - (OCH₂CH₂)y - OH

(IV) in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015 , KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

Nonionic non-crosslinked surfactants that may also be mentioned include fatty acid esters of polyols, for- instance sorbitol or glyceryl mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or stearates, glyceryl or polyethylene glycol laurates; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate); polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (stearate or oleate) of sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl or octyl) ethers. Anionic non-crosslinked surfactants that may be mentioned include carboxylates

(sodium 2-(2-hydroxyalkyloxy) acetate)), amino acid derivatives (N-acylglutamates, N- acylglycinates or acylsarcosinates), alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and oxyethylenated derivatives thereof, sulfonates, isethionates and N-acylisethionates, taurates and N-acyl N- methyltaurates, sulfo succinates, alkylsulfo acetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglycoside (acyl-D-galactoside uronate), and fatty acid soaps, and mixtures thereof.

Amphoteric and zwitterionic noncrosslinked surfactants that may be used include betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates and alkylamphoacetates, and mixtures thereof. Such surfactants are described especially in patent application WO02/056854.

Additional non-crosslinked surfactants work via steric stabilization. Examples of such surfactants include, but are not limited to, those obtained by grafting inulin, an essentially linear fructose based polymeric carbohydrate, with hydrophobic chains. The effectiveness of these surfactants is based on their role in stabilizing hydrophobic particles and oil droplets against flocculation and/or coalescence by a mechanism referred to as steric stabilization. Such surfactants are described in patents EP1086197 Bl and U.S. Pat. No. 6,534,647. They are available as Inutec® surfactants from ORAFTI, Tienen, Belgium. The non-crosslinked surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Fillers

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, especially in an amount of from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. The term "fillers" should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or texture of the composition.

The fillers may be mineral or organic, of any shape, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders, (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder, polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate. Coated Pigments

Advantageously, the composition may comprise pigments treated with a hydrophobic agent. The hydrophobic treating agent may be chosen from silicones, for instance methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, triethoxy caprylylsilane, triethoxysilylethyl po Iy dimethylsiloxy ethyl hexyl dimethicone; fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate or the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; perfluoroalkyl phosphates, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers (described especially in patent application JP05-339125 A); amino acids; N-acyl amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate or isostearyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described especially in patent application EP 1086683 A, the entire content of which is hereby incorporated by reference.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue. Other colorants may be encapsulated with water soluble materials or water insoluble materials. Products such as SUNSIL materials, encapsulated with silicone, are available from Sunjin Chemical Company. Additional dyestuffs coated with nylon or polymethyl methacrylate are also available from Sunjin Chemical Company.

The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Additional colorant

In addition to the fluorescent flakes, the composition may include at least one additional colorant. The term "colorant" is used to designate any organic or inorganic additive capable of producing a color effect. The additional colorant may be present at a concentration of 0.01% to 20% by weight, for example 0.05% to 10% by weight, e.g. 0.1% to 7% by weight, e.g. 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As examples of colorants, there are liposoluble colorants, hydrosoluble colorants, pigments, and pearlescent nacres commonly used in dermatological or cosmetic compositions, and mixtures thereof.

By way of example, the liposoluble colorants are Sudan red, DC red 17, DC green 6, β-carotene, soy oil, Sudan brown, DC yellow 11, DC violet 2, DC orange 5, and quinoline yellow.

The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, covered or uncovered.

The pigments may be selected from inorganic pigments, titanium oxide, possibly surface-treated, the oxides of zirconium or cerium, and also the oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue.

Amongst organic pigments, mention can be made of carbon black, the pigments listed in the D&C classification, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

Nacreous pigments may be selected from white nacreous pigments such as titanium-covered mica, or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-specified type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The pigments may be subjected to surface treatment.

Effect pigments may also be used, for example interference pigments.

The composition according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying or basifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, agents for preventing hair loss, antidandruff agents and propellants, or mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

A person skilled in the art will be able to select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.

A composition according to the invention may contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying or basifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, agents for preventing hair loss, antidandruff agents and propellants, or mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. A person skilled in the art will be able to select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended application of the composition.

Packaging and/or applicator devices

The composition may be packaged in multiple forms, with or without an applicator, depending on its dosage form.

The composition may be packaged in a packaging device such as a box, receptacle, or case, that is leaktight, at least before first use. The packaging device may be made at least in part using a thermoplastic material, or in a variant without using any thermoplastic material. The packaging device may comprise a polyolefm. When the composition is for application by means of an applicator, the applicator may comprise, for example, a foam, an optionally flocked endpiece, a felt, a brush, a comb, a paintbrush, or a piece of woven or non- woven fabric.

The composition may also impregnate a substrate, e.g. a paper, or a woven or non- woven fabric.

When present, the applicator may be received removably on the packaging device containing the composition. In a variant, the applicator may be permanently secured to the packaging device containing the composition. The packaging device may comprise a piston or any other means for enabling the applicator to be fed with the composition. The packaging device may comprise a dispenser member such as a pump or a valve, for example when the composition is liquid.

When present, the applicator may comprise a stem connected to a member for closing the packaging device, which closure member may also constitute a handle member, where appropriate. The closure device containing the composition may be provided with a catch or any other fastener means, e.g. magnetic means or snap-fastener means.

The packaging device may also be provided with fastener means engaged by screw- fastening, friction or snap-fastening.

The packaging device may comprise sealing means such as, for example: an annular sealing lip or an elastomer gasket, either injection-molded onto the device or fitted thereto.

The packaging device containing the composition may carry a label or printing, e.g. showing a trademark or a logo, with the printing being performed, for example, by hot- or cold-transfer or by silkscreen printing or by some other printing technique. The packaging device containing the composition may comprise a card package or a blister pack, e.g. being made in part out of transparent plastics material.

Makeup method

The invention also provides a method of applying makeup and/or a non-therapeutic care product to the skin, the lips, and/or keratinous fibers, the method comprising applying a composition as defined above to the skin, the lips, and/or keratinous fibers. Before performing the application, a measurement of optical properties may be performed in order to formulate the composition accordingly.

Cosmetically acceptable medium The composition of the invention comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable medium.

The terms "physiologically acceptable medium" are synonymous of "cosmetically medium" and are used to designate a medium that is not toxic and that is suitable for application to the skin, to the lips, or to keratinous material of human beings. The acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the substrate onto which the composition is to be applied and also on the way in which the composition is to be packaged.

In exemplary embodiments, the composition of the invention may comprise a fatty phase, for example comprising 5% to 80% by weight, or 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils that may be used in the composition may be selected from those conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

The composition may include an oil, for example an oil selected from:

^• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; • hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and the liquid fraction of shea butter;

^• synthesized ethers and esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils having formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 where Rl represents the residue of a fatty acid or a fatty alcohol having 8 to 28 carbon atoms, and R2 represents an optionally branching hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-docecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldocecyl hydroxystearate, diisotearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, hepatanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptaonoate, and diethyleneglycol diisononanoate; and esters of pentaerythritol such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; ^• linear or branching hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as optionally volatile paraffin oils and derivatives thereof, Vaseline, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

^• fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetylic alcohol, stearylic alcohol, and mixtures thereof (cetylstearylic alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol, or linoleic alcohol;

^• partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295 912;

^• silicone oils such as optionally volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having a linear or cyclic silicone chain, that are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, for example cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl, alcoxy, or phenyl groups, either pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, the groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl- siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and

^• mixtures thereof.

When the composition is in the form of an emulsion having a fatty phase, it may also comprise an emulsifier, and optionally a coemulsifϊer. As examples of emulsifϊers and coemulsifϊers suitable for use in the invention, mention can be made of O/W emulsifϊers such as fatty acid esters and polyethylene glycol, for example PEG-100 stearate, and fatty acid esters and glycerine such as glyceryl stearate, and also W/O emulsifϊers such as oxyethylene poly(methylcetyl)(dimethyl)methylsiloxane available under the commercial name Abi WE09 from the supplier Degussa Goldschmidt or the mixture of ethylene glycol acetyl stearate and glyceryl tristearate sold by the supplier Guardian under the trade name Unitwix. Mention can be also made of emulsifying silicone elastomer as described previously.

The emulsifier and optionally the coemulsifϊer are generally present in the composition at a proportion lying in the range 0.3% to 30% by weight, and for example lying in the range 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one wax, at least one gum, and at least one pasty fatty substance of vegetable, animal, mineral, or synthetic origin, optionally treated with silicone.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone, and/or fluorinated waxes, optionally made up of ester or hydroxyl functions. They may be of natural origin.

The wax may represent 0.01% to 10% by weight, or 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In an embodiment, the composition may be free of any wax.

The composition may also comprise at least one optionally coated organic or inorganic filler, for example as an anti-shine agent, for example zinc and zirconium oxide, silica, alumina, boron nitride, talc, sericite, mica, clays, starch and derivatives thereof, for example the starch cross-linked with octenylsuccincic anhydride and sold by the supplier

National Starch under the name DRY FLO PLUS (28-1160), aqueous dispersions of acrylic styrene, particles of melamine- formaldehyde or urea-formaldehyde resin, aqueous dispersions of polytetrafluoroethylene, microdispersions of waxes, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and 1-triacontene, hydrodispersible polymers containing LCST units, silicone resins and waxes, for example microbeads of silicone resin such as those sold under the name TOSPEARL by the supplier Toshiba Silicone, expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and for example the microspheres sold under the name EXPANCEL by the supplier Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the supplier Matsumoto, microspheres of expanded vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, and methacrylate terpolymer, polyamide particles, e.g. Nylon® particles or those sold under the name ORGASOL by the supplier Atochem, microbeads of cellulose, fibers, powers of polyethylene, microspheres based on acrylic copolymers such as microspheres of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the supplier Dow

Corning under the name POLYTRAP, and mixtures thereof.

The filler, when used as an anti-shine agent, may be present at a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example a concentration lying in the range 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Naturally, the anti-shine agent and the quantity of agent used should be selected by the person skilled in the art so as to avoid deteriorating the looked-for properties. The composition may also contain at least one additive that is conventional in the field of cosmetics, such as fillers, e.g. selected from the above list, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrosoluble or liposoluble agents, preservatives, hydrating agents such as polyols and for example glycerin, sequestering agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, physical and chemical sun filters, for example against UVA and/or UVB, odor absorbers, (acidic or basic) pH adjusters, and mixtures thereof.

The quantities of these various additives are those conventionally used in the field in question, for example 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

In any event, the additives, and the proportions thereof, should be selected in such a manner as to avoid degrading the properties looked for in the invention.

As active agents, mention can be made in particular of the following:

^• agents known for their activity on aging of the skin such as keratolytic and peeling-enhancing agents, e.g. α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, α-aceto acids, β-aceto acids, retinoids and esters thereof, retinal, retinoic acid, and derivatives thereof; • vitamins, such as for example vitamins A, B3, PP, B5, E, Kl and/or C, and derivatives of said vitamins, and for example their esters;

^• free radical scavengers;

^• sun filters;

^• hydrating agents such as polyols; • ceramides;

^• DHEA and derivatives thereof;

^• the coenzyme QlO;

^• dipigmenting and lightening agents acting in complementary biological manner such as kojic acid, extracts of Scutellaria, mulberry, licorice, and/or camomile, derivatives of para-aminophenols, arbutine and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof;

^• agents suitable for use on fatty or mixed skin, such as salts of zinc, and for example zinc oxide and zinc gluconate;

^• antibacterial agents such as salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as n- octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, triclosan, lipacid, capryloylglycine, clove extract, octopirox, hexamidine, azelaic acid, and derivatives thereof;

^• anti-acne agents, or indeed; ^• extracts from phlebotonic plants such as extracts of ruscus and/or horse chestnut; xanthic bases such a caffeine.

The composition of the invention may be presented in any of the dosage forms used in the field of cosmetics, and normally used for topical application: direct, inverse, or multiple emulsions; gels; creams; solutions; suspensions; lotions; free powders; compacts; and sticks.

More precisely, it may be in the form of an optionally gelled oily solution of an emulsion having a liquid or semiliquid consistency of the lotion type obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or conversely an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O), a triple emulsion (W/O/W/ or 0/W/O), or a suspension or an emulsion of soft, semi-solid, or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or indeed microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or a vesicular dispersion of ionic type (liposomes or oleosomes) and/or of non-ionic type (niosomes) and/or a dispersion of nanocapsules or nanospheres. The cosmetic composition of the invention may be presented in the form of a skin- care, makeup, and/or sunscreen composition.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of makeup for the face, for example the skin and/or the lips, e.g. in the form of a foundation.

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a skin-care and/or makeup composition for the skin, the lips, and/or keratinous fibers.

For example, the composition may be in the form of a concealer gel, a skin-care cream, or a photoprotective lotion, for example against UV.

PROPOSED EXAMPLES The proportions are in weight except if the contrary is specified.

Synthesis of fluorescent flakes

Flake A 56.8g of pure water, 42g of isopropanol, 36g of tetramethoxysilane and 21.4g of methyltrimetoxysilane were mixed. After that, 1.7g of acetic acid was added to the solution. It was mixed at room temperature for 1 hour. The sol solution obtained was put in an incubator at 50⁰C for 135hours. At that time, hydrolysis and polymerization occurred. 1Og of this solution was picked up. Organic fluorescent dye (D&C Red 28) 0.015g, DEHYQUART L80(COGNIS) 0.075g, GLYCERETH-25 PCA ISOSTEARATE (PYROTER GPI-25 from Nihon Emulsion) 0.3g and hexylene glycol 5g were added to this sol solution and it was mixed well. Then the solution was applied on a stainless substrate (SUS304 100mm x 100mm x 0.5mm) by spin coat at 800rpm and a film was obtained. Next, the film was dried for 60 seconds at 250° C.

After that, 0.3g flakes were gathered and put in a glass bottle. 0.05g of triethylamine was added and the mixture was put in the incubator at 80⁰C for 1 hour. Then, it was dried at 120⁰C for 4 hours.

Flake B

56.8g of pure water, 40.2g of isopropanol, 48g of tetramethoxysilane 48.Og and 10.7g methyltrimethoxysilane 10.7g were mixed. After that, 1.7g of acetic acid was added to the solution. It was mixed at room temperature for 1 hour. The sol solution obtained was put in an incubator at 50⁰C for 167hours. At that time, hydrolysis and polymerization occurred.

1Og of this solution was picked up. Organic fluorescent dye (D&C Orange 5) 0.015g,

DEHYQUART L80(COGNIS) 0.075g, GLYCERETH-25 PCA ISOSTEARATE (PYROTER GPI-25 from Nihon Emulsion) 0.3g and hexylene glycol 5g were added to this sol solution and it was mixed well. Then the solution was applied on a stainless substrate

(SUS304 100mm x 100mm x 0.5mm) by spin coat at 800rpm and a film was obtained.

Next, the film was dried for 60 seconds at 250° C.

After that, 0.3g flakes were gathered and put in a glass bottle. 0.05g of triethylamine was added and the mixture was put in the incubator at 80⁰C for 1 hour. Then, it was dried at

120⁰C for 4 hours. Cosmetic Composition 1 Powder Foundation

Cosmetic Composition 2 Lipgloss

This cosmetic formulation gives a red and intense fluorescent color after application on lips. Cosmetic Composition 3

Nail Enamels

This cosmetic formulation gives a red-orange fluorescent color after application on nails.

Although the present invention herein has been described with reference to particular embodiments, it is to be understood that these embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and applications of the present invention. It is therefore to be understood that numerous modifications may be made to the illustrative embodiments and that other arrangements may be devised without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium flakes comprising at least one fluorescent agent, entrapped in an hybride matrix comprising at least one metal oxide, at least one hydrophobic group linked to the at least one metal oxide and at least one organic surfactant.

2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least fluorescent agent is selected in the group constituted by fluoresceins, pyrazines, coumarins, naphthalimides, triazines, oxazines, dioxazines, sulforhodamines, azo compounds, azomethinic compounds, stilbene derivatives, oxazole derivatives, benzoxazole, imidazole, pyrene or combinations thereof.

3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one fluorescent agent is in the flakes in a weight amount ranging from 0,01 to 50 %, preferably 0,1 to 20 %, most preferably 0,5 to 5 %.

4. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one metal oxide is selected from oxides of silicon, titanium, aluminum, zirconium or mixtures thereof, most preferably oxides of silicon

5. A cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the weight amont of the at least one metal oxide in the flakes ranges from 0,01 to 20 %, preferably 0,1 to 5%.

6. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claim 1 to 9, wherein the hydrophobic group is chosen in the list consisting of alkyl, phenyl, alkylhalide, vinyl or glycidoxy groups and combinations thereof.

7. A cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the hydrophobic group is chosen in the list consisting of methyl, ethyl and propyl groups.

8. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 7, wherein the organic acid is selected in the group constituted of carboxylic acid, sulfonic and amino acids and combinations thereof, preferably carboxylic and natural amino acids.

9. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 8, wherein the at least one organic surfactant is a cationic or amino- acid derivative surfactant.

10. A cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the surfactant is selected among alkyl betaine, tetra alkylamonium salt or heterocyclic ammonium salt.

11. A cosmetic composition according to claim 9, wherein the surfactant is selected among alkyl substituted amino acids, acylated amino acids or alkoxylated amino acids.

12. A cosmetic composition according claim 9, wherein the surfactant is selected among glutamate, sarcosinate, glycinate or lysine, preferably glutamate

13. A cosmetic composition according to claims 9 to 12 comprising a mixture of cationic surfactant and amino acid derivative surfactant.

14. The cosmetic composition of anyone of claims 1 to 13, the weight amount of surfactant within the flakes ranging from 0,01 and 50 %, preferably 0,1 and 40 %, most preferably 1 to 30 %.

15. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 14, wherein the flakes have a mean length ranging from 0,1 μm to 5mm, preferably 1 to 500 μm.

16. The composition of anyone of claims 1 to 15, wherein the mean thickness of the flakes ranges from 0,1 μm to 15μm, preferably 0,1 to lOμm, most preferably 0,1 to 5μm.

17. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 16, the cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one an organic solvent, preferably selected among water, an alcohol or an oil.

18. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 17, the cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one oil.

19. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claim 1 to 18, the medium comprising at least one film forming polymer.

20. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 19, the cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional coloring substance preferably selected from titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

21. A cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 20, wherein said flakes are present in an amount of 0.5% to 95% by weight, with respect to the total composition weight, preferably 1% to 70%, most preferably 5% to 30% .

22. A cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 21, further comprising at least one additional powdered substance preferably selected from talc, mica, silica, polyamide and polymethylmethacrylate.

23. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 22, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is configured for application to the nails.

24. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claiml to 22, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is configured for application to the skin.

25. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 25, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium is configured for application to the lips.

26. A method for making up and/or caring for keratinous substances, comprising applying thereto a cosmetic composition according to claim 1.

27. A packaging and dispensing device comprising composition as defined in claims 1 to 25 contained in a receptacle.