WO2010103215A1

WO2010103215A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a colouring material, colouring material, and cosmetic treatment method

Info

Publication number: WO2010103215A1
Application number: PCT/FR2010/050355
Authority: WO
Inventors: Valérie Jeanne-Rose
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-03-11
Filing date: 2010-03-03
Publication date: 2010-09-16
Also published as: FR2942963A1; CN102421483B; CN102421483A; FR2942963B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition that includes, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a colouring material comprising a biopolyester comprising repeating patterns of the formula (I), and a colouring dye selected from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes or mineral or organic pigments. The invention also relates to the colouring material as such, and to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinic materials that comprises applying said cosmetic composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a dyestuff, said dyestuff and cosmetic treatment method

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising novel dyestuffs, said dyestuffs and a cosmetic treatment method employing them.

The makeup compositions generally contain dyestuffs, such as pigments or dyes, which impart the desired colors to the deposited makeup. The number of dyestuffs that can be used in cosmetics is particularly limited, in particular because they must be registered on positive regulatory lists, which are different according to the economic zones (Europe, USA, Japan). The widening of the colorimetric range from authorized dyestuffs would therefore be a major asset, even more so if they are coloring matter of natural origin.

Furthermore, it is known that certain dyestuffs such as water-soluble dyes may in certain cases have a tendency to disgorge, which may be the case, for example in the case of makeup compositions such as lipstick or nail polish. , a claw on the lips or on the nails, as well as an alteration of the quality of the make-up.

The object of the present invention is to propose novel dyestuffs which can be used in cosmetics, not having the disadvantages of the prior art.

We have found, surprisingly, that the encapsulation or coating of dye compounds with / with biopolyesters made it possible to obtain dyestuffs having adjustable colorimetric properties; in particular, the modulation of the hue (delta E) may be dependent on the rate of encapsulation / coating and / or the preparation method used.

On the other hand, in the dyestuffs of the invention, the water-soluble or lipophilic dyes can be perfectly immobilized, which implies that their disgorging is particularly limited.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one dyestuff comprising a biopolyester and a dye compound, said biopolyester comprising repeating units of formula (I) as defined above. after and said coloring compound being chosen from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, or inorganic or organic (insoluble) pigments, and mixtures thereof. Another object of the invention is the coloring material as such.

The dyestuffs according to the invention may have a very wide range of riate color in the visible range and I ¹ UV, may depend on the nature of the dye compound, its concentration, and / or the employed preparation method, which allows the use of particularly advantageous in the compositions cosmetics, especially make-up. This is particularly remarkable and advantageous since these dyestuffs may have a substantially identical basic composition, that is to say based on biopolyesters, which makes it possible to simplify their implementation in cosmetic compositions, said materials dyes being easily interchangeable within the same base composition, this making it possible to avoid the adaptations of each composition to the nature of each dyestuff.

The dyestuffs according to the invention also have the advantage of not disgorging in the usual cosmetic media, they include conventional carbon oils or silicone oils. In addition, the dyestuffs advantageously have good coverage.

The biopolyesters that can be used in the preparation of the dyestuffs according to the present invention are preferably polyesters of natural origin or from bioresources.

They comprise repeating units of formula (I):

in which :

R is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom; and

n is between 450 and 1400.

Preferably, R is selected from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl.

The biopolyesters according to the invention may preferably be homopolymers or copolymers comprising only monomers of formula (I).

They can also be copolymers comprising, in addition to monomers of formula (I), additional monomers.

Among the additional monomers, mention may be made of the monomers of formula (T):

in which :

R 'is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom; and m is between 450 and 1400.

Preferably, R 'is selected from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, and even more preferably R' = methyl (lactic acid).

As additional monomers, mention may also be made of ethylenically unsaturated monomers usually used in cosmetics, such as vinyl monomers, in particular (meth) acrylic monomers.

Preferably, in the biopolyesters according to the invention, the monomers of formula (I) represent 30 to 100% by weight, in particular 40 to 95% by weight, or even 55 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 70 to 80% by weight. weight, of the total weight of the biopolyester. The additional monomers can therefore be absent (0%) or be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 70% by weight, in particular 5 to 60% by weight, in particular 45% by weight, and even more preferably 20 to 30% by weight. in weight.

As biopolyesters that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture:

homopolymers or copolymers of polyalkanoates, in particular poly (hydroxybutyrate), and in particular (hydroxybutyrate) or PHB, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyvalerate or PHBV, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyhexanoate; or PHBHx, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctonoate or PHBO, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctadecanoate or PHBOd. The polyalkanoates may in particular comprise the following repeating units, alone or as a mixture:

hydroxybutyrate hydroxyvalerate hydroxyhexanoate

hydroxyoctanoate hydroxyhexadecanoate hydroxyoctadecanoate

copolymers of poly (alkanoates) -poly (lactic acid), comprising at least the following repeating units:

Preferably, the biopolyesters according to the invention have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of between 40,000 and 100,000 g / mol (ie 40 to 100 kDa).

It is of course possible to use in the context of the invention a mixture of organic polymers.

As commercial products, we can mention:

polymers of the type (PHB, PHBV): Monsanto Biopol, Metabolix Metabolix, Tianan Enmat, Copersucar Biocycle, Biomer Biomer L,

a polymer of the type (PHBHx, PHBO, PHBOd): the Nodax of Procter & Gamble.

The coloring compounds that can be used to prepare the dyestuffs according to the invention can be chosen from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes or inorganic or organic (insoluble) pigments. A mixture of coloring compounds can be used.

The dyes likely to be used in the present invention are preferably selected from the following families, alone or in mixture: the family of curcunoids, which notably comprises curcumin, turmeric, curry, saffron and their extracts;

the riboflavin family, which notably comprises riboflavin (or vitamin B2) and its derivatives;

the family of porphyrins, which notably comprises chlorophyll, chlorophylline and their derivatives, especially their cupric complexes;

the family of pigments, which notably comprises vegetable charcoal (Cl Food Black 3);

the carotenoid family, which includes carotenes and xantophylls; beta-carotene, lutein, canthaxanthin, lycopene, apocarotenal (beta-apo-8-carotenal), annatto, bixin, norbixin, annatto, zeaxanthin;

- the betalain family, which includes betanin, beetroot red (beetroot red);

- the anthocyanin family, which includes the elderberry; the family of isotins to which the indigoids belong, and in particular indigo, indirubine, indigotine, halogenoindigo such as dichloroindigo, di-bromoindigo, thioindigos, indigo acetates;

- the family of polyphenols, which includes sorghum (or sorghum extract), - the alizarin family, which includes carminic acid;

azorubine (or carmoisine); amaranth (or azorubine S);

capsantine (or capsorubin or paprika or paprika extract);

caramel (water-soluble dye) and its derivatives.

Among the preferred coloring compounds that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture:

curcumin (fat-soluble pigment):

riboflavin (water-soluble dye)

azorubine (water-soluble dye)

- amaranth (water-soluble dye):

chlorophyll (organosoluble pigment):

lycopene (terpenic dye)

anthocyanins (water-soluble pigments):

with R, the same or different, representing H, OH or OMe; in particular, mention may be made of the following compounds: pelargonidin (R1 = R3 = H, R2 = OH), cyanidin (R1 = R2 = OH, R3 = H), delphinidin (R1 = R2 = R3 = OH); paeonidin (RI = _OCH3, R2 = OH, R3 = H); petunidin (R1 = R2 = OH, R3 = _OCH3); malvidin (R1 = R3 = OCH _3, R2 = OH).

Carminic acid (water-soluble pigment)

- the indigo:

- the following carotenoids

β- Carotene

lutein

Zéaxaπthine

- the bixine:

- Norbixine

- betanine (water-soluble pigment)

- canthaxanthin:

Particularly preferred are the dye compounds selected from carotenoids, anthocyanins, betanin, caramel and annatto (bixin, norbixin).

The dyestuffs according to the invention are preferably in powder form (solid) or in dispersion in an aqueous and / or organic solvent.

They preferably comprise 40 to 95% by weight of biopolyesters and 5 to 60% by weight of coloring compounds. Preferably, they comprise 50 to 90% by weight, or even 55 to 85% by weight of biopolyesters and 10 to 50% by weight, or even 15 to 45% by weight of coloring compounds; they may furthermore comprise additives, solvents or others, for example already present in the dye compounds.

Preferably, in the dyestuffs of the invention, the weight ratio between the dye compounds and the biopolyesters is preferably between 0.05 and 1.2; in particular between 0.1 and 1.0, and more preferably between 0.2 and 0.8; and preferentially between 0.45 and 0.8.

When the biopolymer comprises repeating units of formula (T) in which R = methyl (or poly lactic acid), then preferably this weight ratio is between 0.45 and 1, 2, or even between 0.5 and 1, 0 and even better between 0.5 and 0.8.

The dyestuffs according to the invention can be obtained by different methods. In particular, mention may be made of an emulsion / solvent evaporation process, comprising the steps of: solubilization of the biopolyesters in a suitable solvent, especially dichloromethane and / or ethyl acetate;

solubilization or possible dispersion of the dye compounds in a suitable solvent, in particular water and / or dichloromethane; mixing and forming an emulsion, water-in-oil or oil-in-water in the presence of a suitable surfactant, especially sodium lauryl sulphate or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate;

- evaporation of the solvents; the dyestuff can thus be obtained in the form of a dispersion (powder dispersed in a solvent) or in the form of a powder (dry powder, when all the solvents have been evaporated).

It is also possible to prepare the dyestuffs according to the invention by a melting / grinding process, comprising the steps of: - heating the biopolyesters at a temperature above their melting temperature, so as to make them fluid so as to be able to mix them with the coloring compounds;

addition of the coloring compounds as such or in dispersion / solution in a suitable solvent; mixing, for example with a kneader or an extruder,

cooling at ambient temperature (20-25 ^° C.),

grinding, for example with a cryobrush; it is thus possible to obtain the dyestuff in the form of a dispersion (powder dispersed in a solvent) or, more preferably, in the form of a powder.

The dyestuffs according to the invention may advantageously be used in the cosmetics field.

They may be present in cosmetic compositions in a proportion of 0.1 to

30% by weight, especially 0.5 to 25% by weight, or even 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 15% by weight, and still more preferably 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Said cosmetic composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with cutaneous tissues such as the skin of the face or the body, and keratin materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the skin. nails.

The composition may then comprise, according to the intended application, the usual constituents for this type of composition. The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a liquid fatty phase, which may comprise at least one compound chosen from oils and / or solvents of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, carbonated, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, volatile or non-volatile, singly or in combination to the extent that they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and are compatible with the intended use.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile" is intended to mean any compound capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials, or the lips, in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 1 atm). In particular, this volatile compound has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg).

By contrast, the term "non-volatile" means a compound remaining on the keratin materials or the lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0, 13Pa).

Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention may comprise, in a liquid fatty phase, at least one oil and / or a solvent which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

1 / esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols; advantageously, said ester is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate or has the following formula: R'i-COO-R ' ₂ where:

R '1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and whose hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more a plurality of heteroatoms selected from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions, and

R'2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and of which the hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions.

By "optionally substituted" is meant that R'i and / or R'2 may carry one or more substituents selected, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O and / or N, such as amino, amino , alkoxy, hydroxyl.

Examples of the R'i groups are those derived from preferably higher fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic and isostearic acids. , arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, oleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, R'i is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R ' ₂ is a branched unsubstituted alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preference from 9 to 11 ato- my carbon. In particular, mention may be made of C ₈ -C ₄₈ esters, optionally incorporating into their hydrocarbon chain one or more heteroatoms from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions; and more particularly purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, C ₂ to C ₅ alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate; and the heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, as well as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate (especially El-dew-205SL from Ajinomoto). ; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; branched C8-C16 esters, especially isohexyl neopentanoate.

2 / hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C ₄ to C ₂₄ , the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, maize, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, of bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, jojoba, palm, calophyllum; or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810 ^®", "812 ^®" and "818 ^®" by the company Dynamit Nobel.

3 / alcohols, and especially C6-C32 monoalcohols, in particular C12-C26, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2 -butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and octyldodecanol;

4 / linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, volatile or not, of synthetic or mineral origin, which may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 5 to 100 carbon atoms, and in particular petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, squalane, perhydrosqualine and their mixtures.

It is more particularly possible to mention linear, branched and / or cyclic C5-C48 alkanes, and preferably branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins); especially decane, heptane, dodecane, cyclohexane; as well as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane. 5 / silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile;

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups. having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms; and in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethylthsiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, methylhexyldimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenylthiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The liquid fatty phase may further comprise additional oils and / or solvents, which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils;

- oils of animal origin; - C ₆ to C ₄₀ ethers, especially C ₁₀ -C ₄₀ ; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether;

- C8-C32 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

- Bifunctional oils, comprising two functions selected from ester and / or amide and comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24 carbons, and 4 heteroatoms selected from O and N; preferably the amide and ester functions being in the chain; ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone;

aldehydes which are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde;

The liquid fatty phase may represent 1 to 90% by weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, in particular from 10 to 60% by weight, or even 25 to 55% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. . The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax of vegetable, animal, mineral, synthetic or even silicone origin. In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax can be mentioned alone or as a mixture; Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax; paraffin waxes of lignite; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; the wax of Montan; ozokerites; polyethylene waxes; waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyls, alkoxys and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional dyestuffs which may be chosen from pulverulent compounds such as pigments, fillers, pearlescent agents and flakes, and / or liposoluble or water-soluble dyes.

The dyestuffs, in particular pulverulent, may be present in the composition in a content of from 0.01 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, or even from 1 to 30% by weight. By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized. The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, interferential or not. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, blue. ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon and polyethylene, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, nitrile and the like. boron, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), carbon dioxide precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (SILICA BEADS from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow, 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 , yellow quinoline. They may represent 0.01 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still 0.1 to 6%.

The water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice, methylene blue and may represent 0.01 to 6% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition may furthermore comprise other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions, and which may be chosen from thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, leveling agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers and in particular film-forming liposoluble polymers; surfactants, emulsifiers; fillers, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a suspension, in particular a dispersion of oil in water by means of vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a two-phase or multiphase lotion; a spray; a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and in particular stick or cup, or a compacted solid.

The skilled person may choose the appropriate dosage form and its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account the nature of the constituents used, including their solubility in the support, and the application considered.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin of the body or face, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, and more particularly for the makeup of the lips, eyelashes, hair and / or face. They can therefore be in the form of a care product or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning, cleaning, shaping and / or hair care; they are advantageously in the form of makeup composition, including mascara, lipstick, blush, eyeshadow, foundation.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyebrows and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on the said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above. This process makes it possible in particular to make up said keratin materials, in particular the lips, the face, the eyelids and / or the cheeks, by application of a composition of lipstick, eyeshadow or cheeks, or foundation. according to the invention.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following exemplary embodiments.

Examples 1 to 4

A dyestuff according to the invention is prepared by a melt / grind process.

10 g of poly (3-hydroxybutyhc acid-co-3-hydroxyvalary acid) of Sigma-Aldrich (403121 at 12% of PHV) are heated at a temperature of 350 ^° C., in order to make it fluid. 10 g of dye compound are added hot, the mixture is mixed with a spatula and then allowed to cool in ambient air to 20-25 ^° C., before freeze-drying with dry ice or liquid nitrogen. The desired coloring matter is obtained in the form of a powder. Three natural water-soluble dyes and a fat-soluble dye are used:

Colorimetric measurements are carried out on the dyestuffs according to the invention, in comparison with the close or identical coloring compounds.

Example 5

A dyestuff according to the invention is prepared by an inverse emulsion-solvent evaporation method.

In a flask, 0.2 g of poly (hydroxybutyrate) (PHB) is dissolved in the dichlo- romethane until complete solubilization, then 0.059 g of surfactant (Isolan GPS from Goldschmidt) is added. In a beaker, 0.2 g of Elderberry dye (503267d of Sensient) is dissolved in HPLC water.

The two mixtures are mixed, and emulsified at 6500 rpm for 10 minutes with an ultraturrax. The solvents are evaporated under reduced pressure (rotavarch) for 1 hour at 40 ^° C., then concentrated to dryness and passed to the cryogrind. A saturated violet powder is obtained with a yield of 78%.

Example 6

A dyestuff according to the invention is prepared by a direct emulsion-solvent evaporation method.

In a flask, 0.2 g of poly (hydroxybutyrate) (PHB) is dissolved in dichloromethane until complete solubilization, then 0.2 g of lycopene (400% of Lycored) is added. In a beaker, 0.2 mg of sodium dodecyl sulphate is dissolved in 170 ml of HPLC water.

The two mixtures are mixed and emulsified at 650 rpm for 3 minutes and then at 770 rpm for 10 minutes with a magnetic bar stirrer. The solavnts are evaporated under reduced pressure (rotary evaporator) for 1 hour at 40 ^° C., then centrifuged and filtered. In the end, 15 mg of dyestuff are obtained in the form of a dark orange powder.

Example 7

A cosmetic composition of the lipstick type, comprising (% by weight): - 5% of coloring matter of Example 1 - 15% of polyethylene wax

- 5% octyldodecanol

- 75% Parléam

Example 8

A cosmetic composition of the lipstick type, comprising (% by weight):

- 1% of dyestuff of Example 3 - 4% lithol red B

- 15% polyethylene wax

- 5% octyldodecanol

- 75% spoken

Example 9

A cosmetic composition of mascara, comprising (% by weight):

- Waxes (Carnauba, Candellila, rice bran, vegetable) 24%

- Stearic acid 5.5%

- Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.2% - Arabian Gum 1, 5%

- Thethanolamine 2,4%

- PEG / PPG-17/18 Dimethicone 0.2%

- 0.2% Polyvinyl Alcohol

coloring matter of Example 3 8% - Preservative q.s.

- Water qs 100%

Example 10

A cosmetic composition of eyeshadow is prepared, comprising (% by weight):

coloring matter of Example 4 10%

- DUOCROME BG 20%

- magnesium stearate 2%

- Phenylthymethicone / triisostearin (50/50) 6% - Talc qs 100%

Example 11

A styling gel cosmetic composition comprising (% by weight): dyestuff of Example 4 1%

- Hydroxypropyl guar (RHODIA Jaguar HP 105) 4%

- water qs 100%

Claims

A cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one dyestuff comprising a biopolyester and a dye compound, said biopolyester comprising repeating units of formula (I):

in which :

R is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom; and

n is between 450 and 1400; and said dye compound being selected from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the biopolyester is a homopolymer or a copolymer comprising only monomers of formula (I); or else is a copolymer comprising additional monomers.

3. Composition according to claim 2, in which the additional monomer is chosen from ethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as vinyl monomers, in particular (meth) acrylic monomers, and / or monomers of formula (T):

in which :

R 'is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom; and

m is between 450 and 1400.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the monomers of formula (I) represent 30 to 100% by weight, in particular 40 to 95% by weight, or even 55 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 70 to 80% by weight. % by weight, of the total weight of the biopolyester.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the biopolymer is chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

homopolymers or copolymers of polyalkanoates, in particular poly (hydroxybutyrate), and especially (hydroxybutyrate), polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyvalerate, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyhexanoate, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctonoate, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctadecanoate;

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the biopolymer has a molecular weight (Mw) of between 40,000 and 100.

000 g / mol (ie 40 to 100 kDa).

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the dye compound is selected from the following families, alone or in mixture: - the family of curcunoids, which includes curcumin, turmeric, curry, saffron and their derivatives; extracts;

- the betalain family, which includes betanin, beetroot red (beetroot red);

azorubine (or carmoisine); amaranth (or azorubine S);

capsantine (or capsorubin or paprika or paprika extract);

caramel (water-soluble dye) and its derivatives.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the dye compound is selected from carotenoids, anthocyanins, betanin, caramel and annatto (bixin, norbixin).

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the dyestuff comprises 40 to 95% by weight of biopolyesters and 5 to 60% by weight of dye compounds.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein in the dyestuff, the weight ratio between the dye compounds and the biopolyesters is between 0.05 and 1, 2; in particular between 0.1 and 1.0, and more preferably between 0.2 and 0.8; and preferentially between 0.45 and 0.8.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the dyestuff is present in a proportion of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 25% by weight, or even 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises at least one constituent chosen from oils and / or solvents of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, carbonated, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or or silicone, volatile or non-volatile; waxes of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, or silicone; pigments, fillers, pearlescent agents and flakes, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes; thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, leveling agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers and especially fat-soluble film-forming polymers; surfactants, emulsifiers; fillers, and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, being in the form of a care product or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning, cleaning, shaping and / or hair care.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in the form of makeup composition, including mascara, lipstick, blush, eyeshadow, foundation.

15. A coloring material comprising a biopolyester and a dye compound, said biopolyester comprising repeating units of formula (I):

in which :

R is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom; and

The coloring material according to claim 15, wherein the biopolyester is a homopolymer or copolymer comprising only monomers of formula (I); or else is a copolymer comprising additional monomers.

17. Coloring material according to claim 16, in which the additional monomer is chosen from ethylenically unsaturated monomers, such as vinyl monomers, in particular (meth) acrylic monomers, and / or monomers of formula (T):

in which :

m is between 450 and 1400.

18. Coloring material according to one of claims 15 to 17, wherein the monomers of formula (I) represent 30 to 100% by weight, especially 40 to 95% by weight, or even 55 to 90% by weight, and even better 70 to 80% by weight, of the total weight of the biopolyester.

19. Coloring material according to one of claims 15 to 18, wherein the biopolyester is chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

homopolymers or copolymers of poly (alkanoates), in particular poly (hydroxybutyrate), and especially (hydroxybutyrate), polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyvalerate, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyhexanoate, polyhydroxybutyrate-co- polyhydroxyoctonoate, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctadecanoate; copolymers of poly (alkanoates) -poly (lactic acid), comprising at least the following repeating units:

20. Coloring material according to one of claims 15 to 19, wherein the dye compound is selected from the following families, alone or in mixture:

- the family of curcunoids, which includes curcumin, turmeric, curry, saffron and extracts;

the family of pigments, which notably comprises vegetable charcoal (Cl Food Black 3); the carotenoid family, which includes carotenes and xantophylls; beta-carotene, lutein, canthaxanthin, lycopene, apocarotenal (beta-apo-8-carotenal), annatto, bixin, norbixin, annatto, zeaxanthin;

- the betalain family, which includes betanin, beetroot red (beetroot red);

- the anthocyanin family, which includes the elderberry;

the family of isotins to which the indigoids belong, and in particular indigo, indirubine, indigotine, halogenoindigo such as dichloroindigo, di-bromoindigo, thioindigos, indigo acetates; - the polyphenol family, which includes sorghum (or sorghum extract),

- the alizarin family, which includes carminic acid;

azorubine (or carmoisine); amaranth (or azorubine S);

capsantine (or capsorubin or paprika or paprika extract); caramel (water-soluble dye) and its derivatives.

21. Coloring material according to one of claims 15 to 20, comprising 40 to 95% by weight of biopolyesters and 5 to 60% by weight of coloring compounds.

22. Coloring material according to one of claims 15 to 21, wherein the weight ratio between the dye compounds and the biopolyesters is between 0.05 and 1, 2; in particular between 0.1 and 1.0, and more preferably between 0.2 and 0.8; and preferably between 0.45 and 0.8.

23. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, lips, nails, hair, eyebrows and / or eyelashes, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition such as as defined in one of claims 1 to 14.

24. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 23, for the makeup of said keratin materials, in particular lips, face, eyelids and / or cheeks, by application of a composition of lipstick, eyeshadow or cheeks, or foundation.