WO2011074133A1

WO2011074133A1 - Process for treating keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2011074133A1
Application number: PCT/JP2009/071723
Authority: WO
Inventors: Boni Maxime De; Hiroshi Takahashi
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-12-18
Filing date: 2009-12-18
Publication date: 2011-06-23
Also published as: JP2013514270A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of: applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one polyol; then placing the keratin fibers in an occlusive space; and then heating the keratin fibers, wherein the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of the formula: wherein X is a group selected from the group consisting of O^-, OH, NH₂, O-OH, and O-COO^-. The present invention also relates to the composition itself and a kit to be used for the above process.

Description

DESCRIPTION

PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair, as well as a composition and a kit to be used for the process.

BACKGROUND ART

Due to the many physical stresses (UV, shampoo, brushing, and the like) and chemical stresses (coloration, perm, relaxing,

pollution, and the like) that keratin fibers such as hair must undergo daily, research for effectively repairing damaged keratin fibers has become important in the cosmetic treatments for

keratin fibers.

Repairing damaged keratin fibers is only worthwhile if a real sensation of return to the original state of the keratin fibers is perceived. Furthermore, the repairing treatment should be effective against various stresses, as mentioned before.

Technologies (compositions and/or processes) known as treatments for repairing damaged keratin fibers that have been proposed are still insufficient insofar as they are often temporary and do not achieve proper recovery of keratin fiber integrity.

Polyols are known for their cosmetic properties on keratin fibers. They are. commonly used in hair care products. For example, please refer to US-A-2005-196318.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

Nevertheless, their cosmetic properties on keratin fibers are still insufficient due to their low deposition yield onto the keratin fibers or limited penetration into the keratin fibers.

This means that the efficiency of the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers using a polyol is low and a large amount of polyol is necessary in the formulation used for the cosmetic treatment.

Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a new treatment process for keratin fibers such as hair, using a polyol, even with a relatively small amount thereof, which provides the keratin fibers with good cosmetic effects, in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be persistent against various stresses for a long time.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of:

applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one polyol;

then placing the keratin fibers in an occlusive space; and then heating the keratin fibers,

wherein

the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of the formula:

wherein

X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0^", OH, NH₂, 0- OH, and O-COO^".

The above process may further comprise the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers .

Mechanical tension may be provided to the keratin fibers. The mechanical tension may be provided by using at least one

reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a plate and an iron.

The occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means. The coating means may be rigid or flexible. The coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group

consisting of a film and a sheet.

In the above process, the keratin fibers may be heated at 45°C to 250°C during the step of heating the keratin fibers. The keratin fibers may be heated by at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infra-red ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation. The coating means and/or the reshaping means may comprise the heater. The polyol may be a C2-12 polyol comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups .

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol.

The polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.

The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol,

pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, and 1,5- pentanediol .

The polyol may be an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula (I):

Z-{0(AO)i(EO)_m- (BO)_nH}_a (I)

wherein

Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl group (s) from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups;

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a denotes 3 to 9;

1, m, and n denote the average addition mole numbers of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ 1 ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5; a weight ratio of AO to EO (AO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1; and AO and EO may have been added randomly or in the form of blocks

The composition may comprise the polyol in an amount of 0.001 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition may range from 6 to 11.

Another aspect of the present invention is a composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one polyol,

wherein

wherein X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0^", OH, NH₂, 0- OH, and O-COO^".

The present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:

a device comprising

at least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the occlusive space;

and

a composition comprising at least one polyol,

wherein

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT OF THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide keratin fibers such as hair with good

cosmetic effects, using a polyol, and in particular superior repairing or recovering effects, which can be effective against various stresses for a long time, by using a composition

comprising a polyol in association with a specific heating process for the keratin fibers.

The above specific heating process is performed in a closed or occlusive environment, which limits the evaporation of water or moisture from the keratin fibers and maintains the keratin fibers at higher temperature preferably in the wet state. Accordingly, the keratin fibers can be evenly heated, and the polyol can easily penetrate into or deposit onto the keratin fibers such that it can remain in or on the keratin fibers for a long time even after some stresses such as shampooing.

Since a polyol can easily stay on or in the keratin fibers, the process according to the present invention can exhibit good cosmetic effects by using even a relatively small amount of polyol as compared to a conventional process in which it is difficult for a polyol to stay on or in the keratin fibers.

The composition used in the present invention must not contain any reducing agents such as thiol-compounds . Therefore, malodor derived from the reducing agents can be prevented. Furthermore, the composition used in the present invention must not contain any carbonate ion source as defined above. Therefore, cosmetic treatment is more effective, because there is no possibility of producing carbon dioxide which may form a foam that may inhibit the deposition or penetration of the polyol on or into the

keratin fibers.

(Composition)

The composition used for the present invention comprises at least one polyol.

The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more

hydroxy groups, and does not encompass a saccharide or a

derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar

alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more

hydroxy groups thereof has or have been replaced with at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acylgroup or a carbonyl group.

The polyol may be a C2-12 polyol, preferably a C₂-g polyol,

comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups .

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol may be selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol,

dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol, pentyleneglycol,

hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, and 1, 5-pentanediol .

The polyol may be an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula (I): Z - { 0 ( AO ) i ( EO ) _n- ( BO ) nH } a ⁽D

wherein

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a denotes 3 to 9;

1, m, and n denote the average addition mole numbers of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ 1 ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5; a weight ratio of AO to EO (AO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1; and AO and EO may have been added randomly or in the form of blocks.

The aforementioned alkylene oxide derivatives may be a single type thereof, or a mixture of plural types thereof.

In the alkylene oxide derivative represented by formula (I), Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and a denotes the number of hydroxyl groups of the compound and is 3 to 9. As examples of compounds having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, mention may be made of, for example, in the case of a = 3, glycerin, and

trimethylolpropane; in the case of a = 4, erythritol,

pentaerythritol, sorbitol, alkylglycosides, and diglycerin; in the case of a = 5, xylitol; in the case of a = 6,

dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, and inositol; in the case of a = 8, sucrose, and trehalose; in the case of a = 9, maltitol; mixtures thereof; and the like. Preferably, Z denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl group (s) from a compound having 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, and a satisfies 3 ≤ a ≤ 6. As the compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, glycerin or trimethylolpropane is preferable, and in particular, glycerin is preferable. In the case of a ≤ 2, poor compatibility with oil components such as fats and oils is exhibited, and blending stability in an oil- based formulation tends to be impaired. In the case of 10 ≤ a, stickiness occurs.

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms. As examples thereof, mention may be made of, for example, an

oxypropylene group, an oxybutylene group (an oxy-n-butylene group, an oxyisobutylene group, or an oxy-t-butylene group) , an

oxytrimethylene group, an oxytetramethylene group, and the like. The oxypropylene group and oxybutylene group are preferable, and the oxypropylene group is more preferable. 1 denotes the average addition mole number of AO, and satisfies 1 ≤ 1 ≤ 50, and preferably 2 ≤ 1 ≤ 20. m denotes the average addition mole number of EO, and satisfies 1 ≤ m ≤ 50, and

preferably 2 ≤ m ≤ 20. If 1 is 0, stickiness occurs. On the other hand, if 1 exceeds 50, moisturizing effects are decreased. In addition, if m is 0, moisturizing effects are decreased. On the other hand, if m exceeds 50, stickiness occurs.

The weight ratio of AO to EO (AO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1, and preferably ranges from 1/4 to 4/1. If AO/EO is below 1/5,

stickiness occurs. On the other hand, if AO/EO exceeds 5/1, the moisturizing sensation is decreased. The order of adding AO and EO is not particularly specified. AO and EO can be added

randomly or in the form of blocks. In order to obtain superior effects of preventing skin roughness, AO and EO are preferably added randomly.

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms. As

examples thereof, mention may be made of, for example, an

oxybutylene group (an oxy-n-butylene group, an oxy-isobutylene group, or an oxy-t-butylene group) , an oxytetramethylene group, and the like. The oxybutylene group is preferable. n denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and satisfies 0.5 <n ≤ 5, preferably 0.8 ≤ n ≤ 3, and more preferably 1 ≤ n ≤ 3. If n is below 0.5, stickiness occurs. On the other hand, if n exceeds 5, moisturizing effects are decreased. In formula (I), it is necessary that (BO)_n bonds to the terminal hydrogen atom.

The alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I) can be produced by means of known methods. For example, the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I) can be obtained by additive-polymerizing ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having 3 to 4 carbon atoms to a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, and subsequently reacting with an alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms. When additive-polymerizing ethylene oxide and an alkylene oxide having 3 to 4 carbon atoms to a compound having 3 to 9 hydroxyl groups, the ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide may be polymerized randomly or in the form of blocks.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I), preferable examples of the aforementioned alkylene oxide

derivatives include, for example, an alkylene oxide derivative (polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol) represented by formula (II) shown below: Gly-[0(PO)_s(EO) t-(BO)_uH]₃ (II) wherein

Gly denotes a residue obtained by removing hydroxyl groups from glycerin;

PO denotes an oxypropylene group;

EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

s and t denote the average addition mole numbers of PO and EO, respectively, and have a value ranging from 1 to 50;

the weight ratio of PO to EO (PO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms; and u denotes the average addition mole number of BO, and ranges from

0.5 to 5.

The aforementioned alkylene oxide derivative represented by formula (II) can be obtained by adding propylene oxide and ethylene oxide to glycerin, in the ratio of 3 to 150 mole equivalents of each of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with respect to glycerin, and subsequently, adding the alkylene oxide having 4 carbon atoms in the ratio of 1.5 to 15 mole equivalents thereof with respect to glycerin.

In the case of adding the aforementioned alkylene oxides to glycerin, the addition reactions are carried out with an alkali catalyst, a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, or the like. In general, an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide is preferably employed.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I), more preferable derivatives are obtained by adding 6 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and 3 to 7 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 2 to 4 mol of butylene oxide.

Among the alkylene oxide derivatives represented by formula (I), a further more preferable derivative is polyoxybutylene

polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, which is obtained by adding 8 mol of ethylene oxide and 5 mol of propylene oxide to glycerin, and subsequently, adding 3 mol of butylene oxide, and which has an INCI name of PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin. PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin is

commercially available under the trade name of WILBRIDE S-753 from NOF Corporation. The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 0.005% to 20% by weight, such as from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .

The composition used for the present invention contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of the formula:

wherein

The pH of the composition may range from 6 to 11, preferably between 6.0 and 9.0, and more preferably between 6.0 to 8.0.

Since the pH of the composition is not relatively high or low, damage to the keratin fibers by the composition can be reduced.

In order to adjust the pH, an acidic or alkali agent (s) other than sources of ions of the invention may be used alone or in combination. The amount of the acidic or alkali agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As the acidic agents, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acids which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as citric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid (HC1) . HC1 is preferable. As the alkali agents, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic basic agents which are commonly used in cosmetic products such as ammonia; alcanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri- ethanolamine, isopropanolamine; sodium and potassium hydroxides; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

R1 R3

\ /

N-R-N

/ \

R2 R4

wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Ci-C₄ alkyl radical, and R_lf R₂, R3 and R₄ independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3- propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine and

monoethanolamine are preferred.

The composition used for the present invention may also comprise one or more additional cosmetic agent (s). The amount of the additional cosmetic agent (s) is not limited, but may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic agent (s) may be selected from the group consisting of volatile or non volatile, linear or cyclic, amine-type or not, silicones, cationic, anionic, non ionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and derivatives thereof, protein hydrolyzates, synthetic or natural waxes, and especially fatty alcohols, swelling agents and penetrating agents, as well as other active compounds, such as anionic, cationic, non ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, agents for combating hair loss, anti-dandruff agents, associative-type or not, natural or synthetic thickeners,

suspending agents, sequestering agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreen agents, fillers, vitamins or provitamins, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, as well as fragrances, preserving agents, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.

The vehicle for the composition used for the present invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may

advantageously contain one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which particularly include alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyol ethers, such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol ethers, such as propylene glycol monomethylether, butylene glycol, as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, such as diethylene glycol

monoethylether or monobutylether . The water may be present in a concentration of from 10 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The organic solvent (s) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition used in the present invention may exist in any form such as a lotion, a gel, thickened or not, or a cream.

(Keratin Fiber Treatment Process)

The process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention can be performed by applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one polyol, as described above;

According to the present invention relating to the treatment process for keratin fibers, keratin fibers such as hair are subjected to a specific heating process which is performed in an occlusive space.

The heating process can be performed by any heating means which can be freely controlled to realize the temperature desired for the process.

The heating process may preferably be performed by using a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.

If the evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition evaporate from the keratin fibers, most of the heat energy applied to the keratin fibers will be consumed by the evaporation, and therefore the temperature of the keratin fibers cannot increase up to the predetermined temperature until all evaporable components in the composition evaporate.

The above heating device may comprise a heat energy source being either in contact with keratin fibers or apart from keratin fibers, and at least one means to form an occlusive space surrounding the keratin fibers.

The heat energy source is used to heat keratin fibers. The heat energy source may be at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.

The occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means. A plurality of coating means may be used. The coating means may be rigid or flexible.

The coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet. The material of the film or the sheet is not limited. For example, the film or the sheet may comprise a thermoplastic or thermosetting resin, a paper, a textile, a bonnet, a metal foil such as aluminum foil, and the like.

For example, the film or sheet may be set on a heating rod, a heating bar or a heating plate which is covered by keratin fibers.

According to the present invention, the coating means may

comprise the heat energy source. Therefore, for example, the film or sheet which includes a heater may be set on a rod, a bar, or a plate which is covered by keratin fibers.

The occlusive conditions can restrict the evaporation of

evaporable components such as water in the above-described

composition applied to keratin fibers, and therefore the

temperature of the keratin fibers can be increased higher than that obtainable by a conventional heating process or device for the keratin fibers in open conditions. Furthermore, the keratin fibers can be heated effectively, and the keratin fibers can be heated evenly.

According to one variant of the present invention, the occlusive space may comprise apertures, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the coating means. According to this variant, the total surface area of the coating means comprises the surface area of, when it is present, an opening means for the coating means.

The apertures may be passages, holes or orifices, which may allow an exchange of air between the occlusive space and the exterior thereof, especially when the reaction such as forming vapor inside the occlusive space is too great. On the other hand, a person skilled in the art could form the apertures such that the diffusion of heat in the occlusive space is not impaired.

The keratin fibers can be heated at. 45°C to 250°C, preferably 60°C to 200°C, more preferably 60°C to 150°C, more preferably 60°C to 90°C, during the step of heating the keratin fibers.

The heating process may be performed for an appropriate time which is required to treat keratin fibers. The time length for the heating process is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1 hour, and more preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes. For example, the time for heating may be from 5 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 to 15 minutes.

The keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.

(Permanent Deformation Process for Keratin Fiber)

According to the present invention relating to the treatment process for keratin fibers, the keratin fiber may be subjected to mechanical tension which is typically used for permanent

deformation .

The permanent deformation process for keratin fibers when

mechanical tension is applied to keratin fibers may be performed as follows.

First, keratin fibers are subjected to mechanical tension for deformation. The mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a clip, a plate and an iron. The reshaping means may comprise at least one heater as described above. If the keratin fibers are rolled around a curler, this rolling-up may be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending on, for example, the desired hairstyle shape and amount of curls, the rolling-up may be performed with more or less thick locks .

Next, the above-described composition is applied to the keratin fibers. The application of the composition may be performed by any means, such as a brush and a comb. The keratin fibers to which the mechanical tension has been applied should be treated with the composition. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary.

Lastly, the above-described heating process is performed. The heat energy is applied to the keratin fibers under occlusive conditions as described above.

This process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers may be performed without any step of oxidizing the keratin fibers. Therefore, the time required for the process according to the present invention can be shorter than that for a conventional process which needs an oxidizing step. Furthermore, damage to the keratin fibers by the oxidizing step can be avoided.

One embodiment of the hair treatment process according to the present invention may be a process for reshaping or permanent deforming keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising:

a) a step of placing the keratin fibers under mechanical tension by rolling them up on at least one reshaping or mechanically tensioning means so as to form curls;

b) a step of applying the above-described composition to the keratin fibers;

c) an optional step of rinsing the keratin fibers,

d) a step of placing at least one coating means on the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means or vice versa to form one or more occlusive spaces; and

e) a step of heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of between 45 ± 2 or 3°C and 250 + 2 or 3°C for 1 minute to 2 hours.

In this process, the temperature can be set, adjusted and

regulated by using one or more heating means, and may be measured with a thermo-measurement probe such as Digital Surface Sensor Module, reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi E.H VOC Corp (Japan), set on the keratin fibers. Normally, the probe is set on a single keratin fiber. However, it is advantageous that the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space, and more preferably, the probe is set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space and forms the curl end of the keratin fibers, if a curler is used.

Preferably, the temperature is measured at atmospheric pressure of 101325 Pa.

According to the present invention, the temperature of the keratin fibers may be constant with a fluctuation of ± 2 or 3°C over the head, if the keratin fibers are hair, of an individual, and the probe may be set on any type of keratin fibers. If the keratin fibers are hair, according to the present invention, the constant temperature with a fluctuation of ± 2 or 3°C can be obtained for any type of hair, and the temperature of the hair can be controlled to be constant + 2 or 3°C during the heating of the hair at a certain temperature. Thus, the hair style becomes uniform and homogeneous for the entirety of the hair, and a more excellent hair style can be finally obtained.

Advantageously, the coating means may comprise one or more thermal insulating materials, and more advantageously, the coating means may consist of the material (s).

The term "thermal insulating material" means any material which has an electric conductivity of 0 to 1 W/m°C (PVC: 0.17 W/m°C) .

Preferably, the heating means may be adjusted such that the temperature measured on the keratin fibers is 50°C or more, more preferably 55°C to less than 150°C, and further more preferably less than 100°C. It is preferable that the heating is performed by heating via electrical resistance.

Advantageously, the coating means is impermeable with regard to the composition used in the step b) .

In the above embodiment, at least one of the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means and at least one of the covering means may include a heater.

In the above embodiment, "occlusive space" means that when the coating means is placed on the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means, or vice versa, they together form a closed structure in which heat can diffuse, but heat cannot diffuse out of or is difficult to diffuse out of the closed structure. It is

preferable that the coating means and the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means can form the occlusive space when they are set on the head, if the keratin fibers are hair.

The occlusive space may form a condensation cage in which water and a component or components in the composition used in the step b) may evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the wall of the coating means, and drop onto the keratin fibers. This cycle may be repeated during the heating of the keratin fibers. Thus, the keratin fibers can be always kept wet, and drying and deteriorating of the keratin fibers will be prevented. The formation of occlusive space is an important characteristic of the present invention, because the keratin fibers in the occlusive space can be kept wet and the temperature of the keratin fibers can be constant.

Preferably, the process of the present invention may comprise an additional step of tightening the coating means on the head of an individual, if the keratin fibers are hair, by an elastic cord, an extensible band, or a stretch.

According to the process of the present invention, because of the occlusive space in which the composition can be continuously condensed on the keratin fibers, the amount of a cosmetic component or components in the composition is advantageously reduced as compared to the processes in the prior art. The amount of the cosmetic component (s) may be 0.3 to 3wt% of the composition .

In a preferred embodiment, a coating means may be placed on each hair curler as the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means, if the keratin fibers are hair. In other words, each of the hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used, may be covered individually by a coating means. It is advantageous to cover each hair curler because leaking to the scalp of the composition which has been applied onto keratin fibers in the step b) can be prevented.

In another preferred embodiment, a coating means may cover all hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used. In other words, the coating means may cover the entirety of the head if the keratin fibers are hair.

Advantageously, the occlusive space formed in the step d) may be maintained during the step e) . In other words, the coating means may be removed only after the step e) or after the stop of the heating in the step e) .

If necessary, the composition may be applied to keratin fibers before applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary, before and/or after applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers, before and/or after applying the above-described composition to the keratin fibers, and before and/or after heating the keratin fibers. After the above step e) , if necessary, the keratin fibers may be fixed by oxidation after being taken out from the coating means.

(Products)

The present invention also relates to a composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one polyol,

wherein

This composition may not need to be used in combination with an oxidizing agent which is used in a conventional permanent

deformation of keratin fibers. Therefore, if keratin fibers should be permanently deformed, the composition may be used in one step, whereas two steps (reducing step and oxidizing step) are necessary in the conventional permanent deformation of keratin fibers.

This composition may have the same technical features as those of the composition described above.

a device comprising

at least one reshaping means to provide the keratin fibers with mechanical tension,

and

a composition comprising at least one polyol wherein the

composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ionsis free of a reducing agent and/or of one or several sources of ions of the formula: O

x^cT

wherein

X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0^", OH, NH₂, O-OH, and O-COO^".

The coating means and the heater, as well as the composition in the kit, may be the same as those described above.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

The following composition has been prepared (active ingredients in wt %) :

Composition 1

A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 1") having the following composition shown in Table 1 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %).

Table 1

Example 1

Composition 1 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller for 20 minutes. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged onto a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) . After a heating process at 70°C for 20 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried.

The hair was soft, smooth and detangled.

Comparative Example 1 Composition 1 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 1 for 20 minutes.

After leaving the hair without heating for 20 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.

No specific change was observed after the treatment. Composition 2

A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 2 " ) having the following composition shown in Table 2 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .

Table 2

Example 2

Composition 2 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller for 15 minutes. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged onto a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) . After a heating process at 90°C for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried.

The hair was smooth and shiny.

Comparative Example 2

Composition 2 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 2 for 15 minutes.

After leaving the hair without heating for 15 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.

No specific change was observed after the treatment. Comparative Example 3

Composition 2 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch previously which was the same as that used in Example 2 and wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller for 15 minutes. Then, the perm-roller was plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) . After the heating process at 90°C for 15 minutes, the hair was removed from the perm-roller. The hair was sticky. The hair was then rinsed and dried.

The hair was not shiny, tangled, and no change in feel to the touch was observed.

Composition 3

A hair treatment composition (referred to as "Composition 3") having the following composition shown in Table 3 was prepared (active ingredients in wt %) .

Table 3

Example 3

Composition 3 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller for 10 minutes. Then, the perm-roller was covered by a plastic film and plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2) . After the heating process at 90°C for 10 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried.

The hair was soft and smooth.

Comparative Example 4

Composition 3 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 3 for 10 minutes.

After leaving the hair without heating for 10 minutes, the hair was rinsed and dried.

No specific change was observed after the treatment. Comparative Example 5

Composition 3 was applied to a lg natural Japanese hair swatch which was the same as that used in Example 3 and previously wrapped on a 1.7 cm heating perm-roller for 10 minutes. Then, the perm-roller was plugged into a Digital Perm Machine (Oohiro, model ODIS-2). After the heating process at 90°C for 10 minutes, the hair was rinsed, removed from the perm-roller and dried. The hair was sticky. The hair was rinsed and dried.

No specific change was observed after the treatment.

Claims

A process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of:

applying onto the keratin fibers a composition comprising least one polyol;

wherein

the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:

wherein

X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0^", OH, NH₂, 0-OH, and O-COO^".

The process according to Claim 1, further comprising the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.

The process according to Claim 1 or 2, further comprising providing the keratin fibers with mechanical tension.

The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the occlusive space is formed by at least one coating means.

The process according to Claim 4, wherein the coating means is rigid or flexible.

The process according to Claim 4 or 5, wherein the coating means comprises at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet.

The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the keratin fibers are heated at 50°C 45°C to 250°C during the step of heating the keratin fibers.

The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the keratin fibers are heated by at least one heater

providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infra-red ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.

9. The process according to Claim 8, wherein the coating means comprises the heater.

10. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein

the polyol is selected from glycerins and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof.

11. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, diethyleneglycol, propyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, butyleneglycol,

pentyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol, 1, 3-propanediol, and 1,5- pentanediol .

12. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the polyol is an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula (I):

Z-{0(AO)_!(EO)_m-(BO)_nH}_a (I)

wherein

AO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 3 to 4 carbon atoms; EO denotes an oxyethylene group;

BO denotes an oxyalkylene group having 4 carbon atoms;

a denotes 3 to 9;

1, m, and n denote the average addition mole numbers of AO, EO and BO, respectively, and 1 ≤ 1 ≤ 50, 1 ≤ m ≤ 50 and 0.5 ≤ n ≤ 5;

a weight ratio of AO to EO (AO/EO) ranges from 1/5 to 5/1;

and

AO and EO may have been added randomly or in the form of blocks

13. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition comprises the polyol in an amount of 0.001 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. A composition for treating keratin fibers to be heated in an occlusive space, comprising at least one polyol,

wherein the composition contains neither a reducing agent nor a source of carbonate ions of formula:

wherein

15. A kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:

a device comprising

at least one coating means to form an occlusive space, and at least one heater to heat the keratin fibers in the

occlusive space;

and

a composition comprising at least one polyol,

wherein

X is a group selected from the group consisting of 0^", OH, NH₂, 0-OH, and 0-COO^".