WO2011117403A2 - Composition comprising a silicone copolymer, a silicone surfactant and a non-volatile pdms, cosmetic treatment method and use. - Google Patents

Composition comprising a silicone copolymer, a silicone surfactant and a non-volatile pdms, cosmetic treatment method and use. Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011117403A2
WO2011117403A2 PCT/EP2011/054648 EP2011054648W WO2011117403A2 WO 2011117403 A2 WO2011117403 A2 WO 2011117403A2 EP 2011054648 W EP2011054648 W EP 2011054648W WO 2011117403 A2 WO2011117403 A2 WO 2011117403A2
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group
silicone
composition
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composition according
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PCT/EP2011/054648
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French (fr)
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WO2011117403A3 (en
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Valérie Favreau
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L'oréal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • composition comprising a silicone copolymer, a silicone surfactant and a non-volatile PDMS, cosmetic treatment method and use
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in emulsion form for the treatment of keratin fibres, which comprises, among other ingredients, one or more silicone copolymers, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane, a cosmetic treatment method employing the said composition, and the use of this composition for the care of the hair.
  • hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents, such as light and adverse weather, and by chemical or mechanical treatments such as brushing, combing, plaiting, bleaching, permanent waving and/or dyeing.
  • external atmospheric agents such as light and adverse weather
  • chemical or mechanical treatments such as brushing, combing, plaiting, bleaching, permanent waving and/or dyeing.
  • the hair is often difficult to manage, and in particular is difficult to disentangle or to style, and heads of hair, even thick hair, do not readily maintain a good-looking style, owing to the fact that the hair lacks vigour, volume and responsiveness.
  • This degradation to the hair is increased, moreover, by the repetition of permanent hair colouring treatment, which involves applying to the hair a dye precursor and an oxidizing agent.
  • These styling products are generally cosmetic haircare compositions comprising one or more polymers which have a high affinity for the hair and whose function most often is to form a film on the surface of the hair for the purpose of modifying its surface properties, and in particular for conditioning it.
  • silicone copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid better known under the name BioPSA. These copolymers are described in particular in documents WO 03/026596, WO 2004/073626, WO 2007/051505 and WO 2007/051506, for various cosmetic applications, such as application to the hair, nails and skin.
  • Patent application FR 291 8562 describes an anhydrous hair treatment composition which comprises one or more of these copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more cyclic or linear volatile silicones, and one or more non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes, with a given viscosity.
  • compositions of this kind do not provide entire satisfaction in terms of cosmetic properties (softness, disentangling, etc.) and of qualities of use (ease of application and placement, etc.) and of efficacy (uniformity of the applied composition).
  • Another disadvantage associated with the use of the majority of these haircare compositions lies in the fact that the cosmetic effects imparted by such compositions are not obtained on all hair types: smooth, curled, curly or frizzy, fine or thick, greasy or dry hair.
  • these haircare compositions are often not suitable for hair which has been treated with one or more short-term cosmetic treatments (shampoos, conditioners, leave-in care products, masks, styling gels, lacquers, waxes, etc.) or long-term cosmetic treatments (permanent waves, thiol- or alkali-mediated smoothing, alkaline straightening, permanent, semi-permanent and very short-term colouring, oxidation colouring, tone-on-tone colouring, direct colouring, bleaching, etc.).
  • short-term cosmetic treatments shampoos, conditioners, leave-in care products, masks, styling gels, lacquers, waxes, etc.
  • long-term cosmetic treatments permanent waves, thiol- or alkali-mediated smoothing, alkaline straightening, permanent, semi-permanent and very short-term colouring, oxidation colouring, tone-on-tone colouring, direct colouring, bleaching, etc.
  • the aim of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition which achieves these objectives.
  • the present invention provides a hair treatment composition in emulsion form which comprises one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane.
  • a hair treatment composition in emulsion form which comprises one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane.
  • the invention further provides a cosmetic treatment method employing the said composition. Also provided by the present invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care of keratin fibres, such as the hair. Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from reading the description and examples which follow.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid.
  • the silicone copolymers according to the invention are obtained by reacting a silicone resin with a silicone fluid.
  • Copolymers of this kind are described in, for example,
  • the silicone resin is present at a level of between 45% and 75% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the silicone fluid is present at a level of between 25% and 55% (relative to the total mass of silicone), the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and silicone fluid being less than or equal to 100.
  • the silicone resin is present at a level of between 55% and 65% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the silicone fluid is present at a level of between 35% and 45% (relative to the total mass of silicone), the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and silicone fluid being less than or equal to 100.
  • the silicone resin according to the invention is preferably the condensation product of SiO 2 groups and R 3 S O) 1 ⁇ 2 (triorganosilyl) groups for which each group R is selected independentl from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals and for which the ratio between the SiO 2 functions and the R 3 (SiO) 1 ⁇ 2 functions in the silicone resin is from 0.6 to 0.9.
  • Triorganosilyl groups which can be used to form the silicone resin may be trimethylsilyl, triethylsilyl, raethyl- methylpropylsilyl and dimethylvinylsilyl units and mixtures thereof.
  • the trimethylsilyl group is the preferred group in the context of the invention.
  • the silicone fluid according to the invention is preferably a diorganopolysiloxane having terminal OH functions which has a viscosity of between 100 and 100 000 centipoise (est) at 25 degrees Celsius (°C) and for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are selected independently from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals.
  • the diorganosiloxanes are preferably linear polymers.
  • diorganopolysiloxane may be, without limitation, a polydimethylsiloxane, an ethylmethylpolysiloxane, a copolymer of diraethylsiloxane and methylvinylsiloxane, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers having OH ends.
  • the preferred diorganopolysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane.
  • copolymers according to the present invention may thus be prepared by heating the following mixture:
  • silicone resin which is the product of condensation of units SiO 2 and R 3 (SiO) 1 ⁇ 2 for which each group R is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals and for which the ratio between the SiO 2 functions and the R3(SiO) l /2 functions in the silicone resin is from 0.6 to 0.9.
  • diorganopolysiloxane fluid with terminal OH functions which has a viscosity of between 100 and 100 000 est at 25°C and for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, prop l and vinyl radicals.
  • a suitable catalyst which is preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound selected preferably from primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, salts of the aforesaid amines with carboxylic acid, and quaternary ammonium salts.
  • the mixture is heated at a temperature of between 80°C and 160°C until the adhesive character of the resultant silicone copolymer is obtained.
  • the copolymers preferred according to the invention are sold by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA® or Dow Corning 7-4XXX, it being possible for these BIO-PSA® products to be in two forms, standard or amine compatible, which are provided in different solvents with a number of silicone resin/silicone fluid ratios. These include in particular the grades 7-4400, 7-4500 and 7-4600. They also include Dow Corning 7-4405 Cosmetic Fluid, likewise provided by Dow Corning.
  • the copolymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 1 % and up to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 ,5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicone surfactants.
  • silicone surfactants which can be used in the present invention are those which are well known to the skilled person. They may be water-soluble, spontaneously water-dispersible or water- insoluble. Preferably they are water-soluble or spontaneously Water- dispersible.
  • silicone surfactants are selected for example from the compounds of general formulae (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V):
  • - Ri identical or different at each occurrence, represents a C 1 -C 30 linear or branched alkyl group or a phenyl group;
  • - R2 identical or different at each occurrence, represents -C c H 2c -O-(C 2 H 4 0) a -(C 6 H 6 0) b -R5 or -C c H 2c -0-(C 4 H 8 0) a -R 5 ;
  • R 3 and R 4 which are identical or different, each denote a Ci - C 12 linear or branched alkyl group, and preferably a methyl group;
  • - Rs is selected from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, a linear or branched alkoxy group containing from X to 6 carbon atoms, a linear or branched acyl group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, a group -S O3M or -OCOR6, a C 1 -C 6 aminoalkoxy group which is optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a C 2 -C 6 aminoacyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a group -NHCH 2 CH 2 COOM or -N(CH 2 CH 2 COOM) 2 , a C 1 -C 12 aminoalkyl group which is optionally substituted
  • - M identical or different at each occurrence, denotes a hydrogen atom, Na, K, Li or NH4 or an organic amine;
  • R 6 denotes a C 1 -C 30 linear or branched alkyl group
  • R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a group SO3M
  • - m varies from 0 to 20;
  • - n varies from 0 to 500;
  • - b varies from 0 to 50;
  • - c varies from 0 to 4.
  • - Y represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (chloride, bromide), a sulphate or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate).
  • a halide chloride, bromide
  • a sulphate or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate).
  • silicone surfactants conforming to the general formulae (I) or (II) as defined above, and more particularly those conforming to the formulae (I) or (II) in which at least one, and preferably all, of the following conditions are met:
  • - c is equal to 2 or 3 ;
  • R 1 denotes the methyl group
  • - Rs represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an acetyl group, and preferably a hydrogen atom
  • - a varies from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25;
  • - b varies from 0 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20;
  • - n varies from 0 to 100;
  • silicone surfactants are, for example, those sold under the trade names Fluid DC 193 and DC 5225C by the company Dow Corning, Silwet® L 77 by the company OSI, and Mazil ® 756 by the company Mazer PPG.
  • This surfactant is preferably a silicone mixture comprising hydrophilic grafts- It is composed preferably of a mixture of ethoxylated (EO) and propoxylated (PO) polydimethylsiloxane (18 EO/18 PO), cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and water (10/88/2), which is sold under the name Dow Corning 5225C Formulation Aid.
  • EO ethoxylated
  • PO propoxylated
  • the silicone surfactants are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of between 0.01 % and 10% by weight of active material, more preferably between 0.1 % and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane.
  • a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane has a vapour pressure of less than 0.1 mmHg at 25°C.
  • the non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) is a silicone oil.
  • a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a viscosity of more than 5 est is understood in particular to be a silicone oil having a vapour pressure of less than 0.1 mmHg at 25°C.
  • the non-volatile linear PDMS with a viscosity of more than 5 est may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes alkyldimethicones; polyphenylmethylsiloxanes such as phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethicones, and vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
  • the viscosity of the non-volatile linear PDMSs used in the present invention is greater than 5 est at 25°C. In one particular embodiment, this viscosity is between 5 est and 1 000 000 est, preferably between 5 est and 100 000 and. more preferably between 1 00 and 0 000 est.
  • This linear PDMS may be selected in particular from the silicones of formula (II):
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 5 and 6 are, together or separately, an atkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms
  • R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical or an aryl radical
  • X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, or an amine radical,
  • n and p are integers selected such as to give a compound with a viscosity of more than 5 est; the sum n + p is preferably greater than 10.
  • Examples include the following polydimethylsiloxanes:
  • CFA dimethiconol
  • the non-volatile linear PDMS is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion. More specifically, it may be either in the form of an oil-in- vvater emulsion, with the continuous phase being the aqueous phase, or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, with the continuous phase being the fatty phase.
  • It preferably takes the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the oily phase is preferably introduced into the composition at between 5% and 95% by weight of active material; more preferably between 5% and 90% of active material; more preferably between 10% and 80% of active material.
  • the oily phase of the emulsion may comprise one or more silicone oils other than a non-volatile linear PDMS, one or more non- silicone oils, or mixtures thereof *
  • silicone oils may be chosen among volatile silicones.
  • a volatile silicone is a silicone which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, having a vapour pressure at 25 °C of more than 0.1 mmHg and preferably of between 0.1 and 300 mmHg, more preferably between 0.1 and 200 mmHg.
  • Volatile silicones include linear or cyclic silicones having from 4 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • Volatile silicones which can be used in the invention include, in particular, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile silicone is preferably selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.
  • Examples include the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, the octamethyltrisiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 est by the company Dow Corning, and the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 ,5 est by the company Dow Corning.
  • This cyclic volatile silicone generally has a low viscosity, for example a viscosity of less than 5 est at 25°C.
  • silicone oils may also be chosen among non-volatile silicones other than a non-volatile linear PDMS.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more liquid, non-silicone fatty substances such as liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters.
  • a liquid hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon which is composed solely of atoms of carbon and of hydrogen and which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; equivalent to 1.013 x 1 0 5 Pa).
  • liquid hydrocarbons are selected from:
  • hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Pari earn®, and squalane.
  • liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are selected from volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives and liquid petrolatum.
  • a liquid fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non- alkoxyl ated fatty alcohol which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; equivalent to 1.013 x 10 s Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably they are acyclic.
  • liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.
  • liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have at least in their structure at least one double or triple bond.
  • the fatty alcohols of the invention preferably possess in their structure one or more double bonds. When two or more double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may be conjugated or non- conjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, They are preferably acyclic.
  • liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from oleic (or oleyi) alcohol, linoleic (or iinoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.
  • Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
  • a liquid fatty ester means a non-alkoxylated ester which is obtained from a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol and which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; equivalent to .1 .013 x 1 0 5 Pa).
  • the esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 - 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 -C 26 aliphatic lnonoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal 10.
  • esters of monoaloohols preferably at least one of the alcohol or of the acid from which the esters of the invention are obtained is branched.
  • the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols include ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C4- C 26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy, non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
  • diethyl sebacate diisopropyl sebacate; di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di(2 ⁇ ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; trisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate
  • the composition may further comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sugars of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose refers to oxygen- containing hydrocarbon compounds which possess a plurality of alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. Where they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearatc
  • Sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monoesters and diesters and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopaimitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates are more particularly used.
  • Oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides which can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters include, for example, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 8.1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin such as the liquid triglycerides of
  • esters according to the invention liquid fatty esters obtained from monoalcohols.
  • composition of the invention preferably comprises one or more silicone oils other than the non volatile PDMS.
  • compositions of the invention may comprise one or more other, additional fatty substances which are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the additional fatty substances are selected more particularly from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
  • fatty alcohols, esters and acids have more particularly at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted, more particularly by one or more hydroxyl groups (more particularly 1 to 4), Where they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the solid fatty alcohols which are suitable for implementing the invention are selected more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol).
  • esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohols which are advantageously different from the triglycerides referred to above, they include in particular the solid esters obtained from C9-C 26 fatty acids and C9-C 26 fatty alcohols.
  • esters include octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate; and hexyl stearate.
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C22 alcohols it is also possible to use esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C -C 26 di-, tri ⁇ , tetra- or penta-hydroxy alcohols.
  • esters include in particular dioctyl maleate.
  • myristyl cetyl and stearyl palmitates
  • alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate.
  • the wax or waxes are selected in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax and esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower* sold by the company Bertin (France), and animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as that sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
  • the non-liquid silicones in accordance with the invention may be present in the form of waxes, resins or gums.
  • the non-liquid additional silicone is preferably selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organically modified polysiloxanes containing at least one functional group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are especially polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, which are used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenyl- methylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.
  • Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • CFA cycli c polydimethylsiloxane
  • Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning
  • a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 12 14 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum, corresponding to a dimethicone and having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, in solution in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, corresponding to decamethyleyelopentasiloxane;
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum, defined above and having a viscosity of 20 m 2 /s, and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s. This product contains preferably 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.
  • organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
  • R represents an alkyl possessing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred among these products are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
  • the additional organically modified siloxanes include the polyorganosiloxanes containing:
  • polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups, such as (C12) alkyl- methicone copolyol; - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the substituted amino groups are more particularly C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the solid fatty substance or substances are optionally present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.1 % to 30%, preferably in an amount varying from 0.2% to 20%, and more preferably still in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may preferably comprise an amount of water which is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 95%. More preferably less than or equal to 90%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise a polymer which is able to donate hydrogen bonds and is water-soluble or fat-soluble.
  • the polymer may more preferably be a silicone polymer and the hydrogen bond donor a urea group, more particularly a polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer composed preferably of dimethylpolysiloxane/urea copolymers, with the INCI name polyureadimethicone, and even more preferably of the products sold under the reference Wacker-Belsil ® UD 60, Wacker-Belsil ® UD 80, Wacker-Belsil ® UD 140 and Wacker-Belsil ® UD 200 by the company Wacker.
  • the cosmetic composition may further comprise one oi more fixative polymers.
  • a fixative polymer for the purposes of the present invention means any polymer which allows a given hairstyle to be shaped or have its shape maintained.
  • the fixative polymers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are selected in particular from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof.
  • a "cationic polymer” for the purposes of the present invention means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups.
  • the cationic fixative polymers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably selected from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and about 5 000 000, and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
  • R1 and R2 which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group
  • A is a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from .1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4, 5 and R6, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;
  • X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of class ( 1 ) also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be selected from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides which are substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C 1 -4 ) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comonomers may be selected from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides which are substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C 1 -4 ) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, as for example Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or else the products called Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937.
  • Gafquat® the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, as for example Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or else the products called Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937.
  • quaternized yinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as, in particular, the product sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP;
  • chitosans or salts thereof are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glut am ate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.
  • These compounds include the chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight which is sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and the chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate which is sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
  • the commercialized products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • the anionic fixative polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid, and have a number- average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and 5 000 000.
  • the carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those conforming to the formula (A l ):
  • a 1 denotes a methylene group optionally joined to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group when n is greater than 1 , via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulphur
  • R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group
  • Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group
  • R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a group -CH 2 -COOH or a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • a lower alkyl group denotes preferably a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic fixative polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
  • methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers as an aqueous dispersion, sold under the name Amerhold* DR 25 by Amerchol.
  • Crotonic acid copolymers such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in. their chain and optionally other monomers such as ailylic esters or methailylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester monomer of an a- or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid.
  • copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 1 13 and GB patent 839 805.
  • Commercial products are in particular those sold under the names Gantrez* 1 AN or ES by ISP,
  • copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers selected from allylic or methallylic esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, a-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • the homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acryiamidoalkylsulphonic units.
  • These polymers can be selected in. particular from:
  • polyvinylsulphonic acid salts having a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, and also acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone,
  • polyacrylamidesulphonic acid salts such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631 and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer H SP 1 180 by Henkel.
  • the anionic fixative polymers are preferably selected from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert- butylacrylamide terpolymers sold especially under the name Ultrahold ® Strong by BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the name R£sine 28-29-30 by National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez ® by ISP, the copolymers
  • the anionic fixative polymers mentioned above it is more particularly preferred in the context of the present invention to use the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ® ES 425 by ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acryiate/N ⁇ tert «butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold ® Strong by BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit ® L by Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name R sine 28-29-30 by National Starch, and the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer ® MAEX or MAE
  • amphoteric fixative polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention can be selected from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprisin at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, ⁇ alternatively B and C can denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulphobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
  • B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer containing an ⁇ , ⁇ -dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
  • amphoteric fixative polymers corresponding to the definition given, above that are more particularly preferred are selected from the following polymers:
  • copolymers having acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ct-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylarainoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkyiaminoalkylmethacrylamides and -acrylamides.
  • a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ct-chloroacrylic acid
  • a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylarainoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkyiaminoalkylmethacrylamides and
  • At least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate.
  • the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethyiacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octyl- acrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decyiacrylamide, N-dodecylacryl- amide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acidic comonomers are selected more particularly from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
  • the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butyl arainoethyl, ⁇ , ⁇ '-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butyl aminoethyl methacrylates.
  • R10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of these acids, or a group derived from the addition of any one of the said acids with a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine
  • Z denotes a group deriving from a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:
  • this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetraamine or from dipropylenetriamine;
  • these polyaminoamides being crossHnked by addition reaction of a difunctional crosslinking agent selected from cpihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and being acyl ated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts thereof,
  • a difunctional crosslinking agent selected from cpihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives
  • the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-tri- methyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
  • the alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
  • R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
  • y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
  • R 1 2 and R 1 3 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
  • 5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sura of the carbon atoms in 14 and R 1 5 does not exceed 10.
  • the polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
  • the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5% and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30% and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit (F), represents a group of formula:
  • R 1 7 , R 18 and R 19 which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyi, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups R 1 7 , R18 and R 19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
  • R 1 7, R18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
  • R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CHjO, CH3CH 2 O or phenyl group
  • R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C ⁇ -C ⁇ , lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl
  • R23 denotes a Ci -Ce lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R 24 -N(R 2 2)2 , R24 representing a -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - or -CH 2 -CH(CH3)- group, R22 having the meanings mentioned above.
  • amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X selected from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:
  • X denotes the symbol E or E ⁇ E or E ⁇ which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which can comprise, in addition to the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.
  • E has the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and contains one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
  • (9) (C 1 -Cs)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkyl- amine such as ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyIaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an ⁇ , ⁇ -dialkylaminoalkanol.
  • These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
  • the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of class (3), such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Lovocryl ® 47 by National Starch and those of class (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxy- methylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer® Z301 by Sandoz.
  • class (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer ® , Amphomer ® LV 71 or Lovocryl ® 47 by National Starch
  • class (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl di
  • the nonionic fixative polymers that may be used according to the present invention are selected, for example, from:
  • vinyl acetate copolymers for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dib tyl maleate;
  • acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by Rohm & Haas under the names Primal* AC-261 K and Eudragit ® NE 30 D, by BASF under the name 8845, or by Hoechst under the name Appretan ® N9212 ;
  • styrene copolymers for instance copolymers of styrene and of an alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith ® LDM 691 1 , Mowilith* DM 61 1 and Mowilith ® LDM 6070 sold by Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas* SD 215 and Rhodopas ® DS 910 sold by Rhodia Chimie; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine;
  • an alkyl (meth)acrylate such as the products Mowilith ® LDM 691 1 , Mowilith* DM 61 1 and Mowilith ® LDM 6070 sold by Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas* SD 215 and Rh
  • vinyllactam copolymers such as a polyvinylpyrrolidone/ vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec ® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinyIpyrrolidone/vinyI acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA ® S630L by ISP, Luviskol ® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF; and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol* VAP 343 by BASF.
  • Luvitec ® VPC 55K65W by BASF
  • poly(vinyIpyrrolidone/vinyI acetate) copolymers such as those sold under the name PVPVA ® S630L by ISP, Luviskol ® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF
  • the alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • fixative polymers it is also possible to use functionalized or non-functionalized, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, silicone or non-silicone polyurethanes, or mixtures thereof,
  • polyurethanes to which the present invention is more particularly directed are those described in patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, of which the Applicant is proprietor, and also in patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510, of the company BASF, and EP 0 619 1 1 1 of the company National Starch.
  • Polyurethanes particularly suitable in the present invention include the products sold under the names Luviset PUR.® and Luviset® Si PUR by the company BASF.
  • This polymer may be neutralized or non-neutralized, and more particularly non-neutralized.
  • This polymer may preferably be anionic, and even more preferably may be:
  • the fixative polymer or polymers is or are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount varying from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants different from the silicone surfactant or surfactants defined above. More particularly, these surfactants may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic additional surfactants.
  • the ionic surfactant or surfactants used in the cosmetic composition may be cationic surfactants.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used in the cosmetic composition include, in particular, the optionally polyalkoxylated salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • radicals Re to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals Rg to Rn comprising a fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (Cj-Cc), alkylatnide, alkyl(Cj2-C22)- amidoalkyl(C2-C6), aIkyl(C12-C22) acetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals containing approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alk l(C2-Ca) sulphates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethyiammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyl trim ethyl - ammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethyihydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium metho- sulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearaniidopropy.ldimethyl-
  • R 12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids
  • j 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Ru represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R1 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulphonates.
  • R 12 and R 13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21. carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ru denotes a methyl radical and 15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat® W 75 By the company Rewo;
  • Rjg denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
  • R 17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from ⁇ to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(R i 7a)(Rt 8 a)N-(CH 2 )3 , Rt*a, R J 7 a, Riga, Ri «, R J 9 , R20 and R3 ⁇ 4i, which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates.
  • Compounds of this kind are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT ⁇ available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75
  • R22 is selected from CiC « alkyl radicals and C i C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R23 is selected from :
  • R25 is selected from:
  • R24 , R26 and R 2 8 which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C2 1 hydrocarbon radicals;
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6;
  • y is an integer from I to 10;
  • x and z which are identical or different, are integers from 0 to
  • X- is an organic or inorganic, simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 5, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R.2 S denotes R29.
  • the alkyl radicals 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R27, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R23 is a hydrocarbon radical R29, it has preferably 1 to
  • 24 > 26 and 28, which are identical or different, are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cn-C2 i hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 1 - C2 ] alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which are identical or different, are 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ester-functional ammonium.
  • the anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
  • - z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
  • - R23 is selected from:
  • - R.2S is selected from:
  • R2 J 26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13-C 17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ⁇ -Cn alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • hydrocarbon radicals are advantageously linear.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (IV) such as the diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxy-ethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl- dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylamraonium and raonoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular), and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl radicals preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains two or more acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohyd in or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohyd in or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl- dihydroxyethyl-methylammoniurn methyl sulphate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyetbyl-methylammonium methyl sulphate and 15% to 30% of triacyloxyethyl-methylamraonium methyl sulphate, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4, 137, 1 80.
  • the cationic surfactants which are particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are selected from quaternary ammonium salts, and in particular from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride.
  • the ionic surfactants which can be used in the cosmetic composition may also be anionic surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactants which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention include, in particular, the salts, especially the alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts, of the following types: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylaryl- sulphonates, a-olefinsulphonates, paraffinsulphonates, alkylsulpho- succinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamidesulphosuccinates, alkylsulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acyllactylates, N-acyltaurate
  • alkyl-D-galactoside- uronic acids and their salts mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactoside- uronic acids and their salts, and also of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-24)ethercarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(Ce.24)aryI- (Ce.24)ethercarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-24)amido- ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkyl sulphates Preference is given to using alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and. alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof, especially in the form of salts with alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, with ammonium, with amine or with amino alcohol.
  • amphoteric surfactants (true amphoterics comprising an ionic group and a potentially ionic group of opposite charge, or zwitterionics, simultaneously comprising two opposite charges) may be selected from the following surfactants:
  • betaines in general, especially carboxybetaines, for example Iauryl betaine (Mirataine BB from the company hodia) or octyl betaine or cocobetaine (Mirataine BB-FLA from Rhodia); amidoalkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) ( irataine BDJ from the company Rhodia or Mirataine BET C-30 from. Rhodia);
  • CAPB cocamidopropyl betaine
  • sulpho-betaines such as cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine (Mirataine CBS from the company Rhodia);
  • alkylamphoacetates and alkylamphodiaeetates comprising, for example, a coco or lauryl chain (Miranol C2M Cone NP, C32 and L32 in particular, from the company Rhodia);
  • lauramine oxide for example lauramine oxide (INCI).
  • the additional nonionic surfactants are more particularly selected from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or poly- glycerolated nonionic surfactants.
  • the oxyalkylene units axe more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants include the following:
  • esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8- C30 acids and polyethylene glycols are examples of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8- C30 acids and polyethylene glycols,
  • the surfactants feature a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide which is preferably from 1 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50 and with preference from 2 to 30.
  • the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenated CS-C30 alcohols containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants preference is given to using mono- or polyglycerolated C8 -C40 alcohols.
  • the mono- or polyglycerolated Cg-Cto alcohols correspond to the following formula:
  • R represents a linear or branched Cg-C f o » preferably C8-C30, alkyl or alkenyl radical and m represents a number from I to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
  • Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY GLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.
  • the alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohol in so far as the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, within a commercial product, there may be two or more species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols present alongside one another, in the form of a mixture.
  • the mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols it is preferred more particularly to use a Cs Cio alcohol with one mole of glycerol, a Cio/C i 2 alcohol with 1 raol of glycerol and a Cu alcohol with 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • Additional nonionic surfactants also include optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides.
  • the additional surfactant optionally present in the composition is preferably a nonionic surfactant.
  • the additional surfactant or surfactants are present preferably at a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably at a concentration of from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably at a concentration of from 0.1% to 1 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair treatment composition is a composition for colouring keratin fibres that further comprises one or more pigments, A composition of this kind produces lasting and colouring coatings on the keratin fibres without detriment to the said fibres.
  • pigment is meant all of the pigments which provide colour to keratin materials.
  • Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05%, and preferably less than 0.01 %.
  • the pigments which may be used are selected in particular
  • These pigments may be in the form of powder or pigmentary Q paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
  • the pigments may be selected, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, lakes, special-effect pigments such as nacres, metallic pigments or flakes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigment may be a mineral pigment.
  • a mineral pigment is any pigment which satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • the mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron oxides or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and Prussian 0 blue, and titanium dioxide.
  • the pigment may be an organic pigment.
  • organic pigment is meant any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may in particular be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoiine, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phtbalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42.090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CT 61 565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1 1725, 15510, 45370 and 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45
  • the pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426, These composite pigments may be compounds especially of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for ensuring the binding of the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
  • the organic pigment may also be a lake.
  • lake is meant dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (C I 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053 ), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (C I 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61
  • An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1 ).
  • the pigment may also be a special-effect pigment.
  • special-effect pigments are meant pigments that generally create a non- uniform coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.)- They thus contrast with coloured pigments that afford a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
  • special-effect pigments those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres or flakes.
  • special-effect pigments include nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide, or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and especially with Prussian blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and an organic pigment as defined above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • These pigments may also be mica particles superposed on their surface with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants.
  • the nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper glint or colour.
  • nacres that can be employed in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the gold-coloured nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze ( 17353) (Colorona), by Eckart under the name Prestige Bronze and Prestige Soft Bronze, and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange ( 17449) (Microna); the brown-shade nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Ch
  • multi-layer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
  • Pigments with an interference effect may also be made of pigments with an interference effect that are not fixed onto a substrate, for instance liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek).
  • Special-effect pigments further comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
  • the pigment may also be a metallic pigment.
  • the metallic pigment may be selected from silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium and alloys of these metals.
  • the metallic pigment is preferably selected from copper, zinc, aluminium, titanium, silver, gold and alloys of these metals. More preferably a metallic pigment is used which is selected from aluminium (advantageously having an aluminium content of greater than or equal to 99%), copper (advantageously having a copper content of greater than or equal to 95%), and bronze (preferably having a copper content of from 70% to 95% and a zinc content of from 5% to 30%).
  • the metallic pigment may also be coated with at least one layer, referred to as a "coating", of at least one organic or inorganic material.
  • a coating of at least one organic or inorganic material.
  • the metallic particle is coated in addition to or alternatively to the coating of lubricant used in the course of its production, it is coated preferably with at least one layer of silicon oxide SiO ⁇ .
  • Metallic particles include particles of aluminium, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 21 00 EAC® by Silberline and Metalure® by Eckart. Mention may also be made of bronze powders such as those sold under the names Premier Super 8000 by Wolstenholme and under the names Rothoflex, Lithoflex and Standard by Eckart, with, for example, the references Standart Bronze Powder Offset 3000 Super Pale Gold (D50 3-5 ⁇ ) and Lithoflex XA 40-03 Rich Pale Gold (D50 3-5 ⁇ ).
  • metal alloy such as bronze powders coated with silica
  • pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
  • the size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 ⁇ , preferably between 20 nm and 80 ⁇ and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 ⁇ .
  • the pigments may be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.
  • the dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or fiocculation.
  • This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of two or more thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can physically or chemically attach to the surface of the pigments.
  • These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.
  • 12-hydroxystearic acid esters and Cs to C20 fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly( 12- hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlace! PI 00 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
  • poly( 12- hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel,
  • dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/ oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference DC2-5185.
  • the pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
  • the pigments that have been surface-treated beforehand which are useful in the context of the invention, are pigments that have totally or partially undergone a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanocheraical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described especially in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 1 05. pp. 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention.
  • organic agents may be selected, for example, from amino acids; waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example chitosan, cellulose and derivatives thereof; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; proteins; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes and siloxysilicates; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluor
  • the surface-treated pigments that are useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
  • the surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available in the required form. Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
  • the organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
  • the surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is especially described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
  • the agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 % to 1 0% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigments.
  • the amount of pigments is generally between 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-colouring fillers.
  • the non-colouring fillers may be selected from those that are well known to those skilled it the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon ® sold under the name Orgasol ® by the company Atochem, poly- -alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon ® , lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel* by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap ® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methaerylate particles and silicone resin micro-beads (for example Tospearls ® from Toshiba
  • a compound that is capable of swelling on heating and especially heat-expandable particles such as non-expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride/acrylo- nitrile/m ethyl, methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer or copolymer, for instance those sold, respectively, under the references Expancel ® 820 DU 40 and Expancel ® 007WU by the company Akzo Nobel.
  • the fillers used are preferably inorganic fillers.
  • the amount of non-colouring fillers is generally between 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more other adjuvants or ingredients selected from cationic polymer-type conditioning agents, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, inorganic thickeners, organic thickeners, which are polymeric or non-polymeric and associative or non- associative, water-soluble and fat-soluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreen agents, permanent or temporary dyes such as direct natural or synthetic or inorganic (base or coupler) dyes, fragrances, peptizing agents, preservatives, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, proteins, sequestrants, solubilizers, alkalifying agents, acidifying agents, corrosion inhibitors, reducing agents or antioxidants, oxidizing agents and flakes.
  • cationic polymer-type conditioning agents selected from cationic polymer-type conditioning agents, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, inorganic thick
  • the adjuvant or adjuvants and ingredient or ingredients are preferably present at a concentration of from 0.001 % to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents.
  • Organic solvents include, for example, linear or branched C2- C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyois and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched C2- C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycerol polyois and polyol ethers
  • 2-butoxyethanol propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether
  • aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such organic solvents may be present in proportions preferably of between 1 % and 40% by weight and more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition in which they are contained.
  • composition may take a number of formulated forms of varying viscosities, such as, for example, the form of a milk, fluid or thickened emulsion, ointment, cream or any other formulating form.
  • composition may be present in a container in the form of a bottle, pot, pump flask, flask, tube or spray container, with or without applicator, for each of the packaging elements referred to before.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, more particularly human keratin fibres such as the hair, for example a styling method, which comprises applying an effective amount of an above-described composition to the wet or dry hair, and in rinsing the hair or not rinsing the hair after an optional contact time or after optional drying.
  • a styling method which comprises applying an effective amount of an above-described composition to the wet or dry hair, and in rinsing the hair or not rinsing the hair after an optional contact time or after optional drying.
  • the composition is preferably a leave-in (non-rinse) composition.
  • the method comprises a step whereby the composition is applied to wet or dry hair.
  • the composition may not be rinsed out, or the method may not include a rinsing step.
  • the composition is preferably not rinsed out.
  • This step may be preceded by various non-permanent cosmetic treatments, such as shampooing, conditioning, or application of a leave-in care product, or permanent treatments, such as permanent waving, thiol-mediated or alkali-mediated smoothing, alkaline straightening, permanent, semi-permanent or very short-term colouring, bleaching, or any other cosmetic treatment.
  • non-permanent cosmetic treatments such as shampooing, conditioning, or application of a leave-in care product
  • permanent treatments such as permanent waving, thiol-mediated or alkali-mediated smoothing, alkaline straightening, permanent, semi-permanent or very short-term colouring, bleaching, or any other cosmetic treatment.
  • the process may include, following the application of the composition according to the invention, and optionally of a rinsing step, an additional step of supplying heat for drying, hairsetting, blow-drying, the use of flat tongs or an iron, drying under a hood, drying with a hairdryer or any other device that provides heat.
  • the supplying of heat may be carried out at between 50°C and 220°C.
  • a mechanical action may be carried out on the locks of hair, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair,
  • composition according to the invention may be reinforced by the supplying of heat.
  • compositions for providing body and mass to fine, Caucasian-type hair Examples of compositions for providing body and mass to fine, Caucasian-type hair.
  • Example 1 Examples of compositions for providing body and mass to fine, Caucasian-type hair.
  • compositions are prepared:
  • the polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
  • formula A is able to provide body and mass.
  • Formula B has a slightly greasy feel and is not acceptable on the basis of its heaviness.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied " by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
  • formula C is able to provide body and mass.
  • Formula D has a slightly greasy feel and is not acceptable on the basis of its heaviness.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
  • formula E is able to provide body and mass.
  • Formula F has a slightly greasy feel and is not acceptable on the basis of its heaviness.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
  • Formula G produces a reduction in body and mass and a greater ease of styling than formula H.
  • Formula G produces effects which are retained after one or more shampooings.
  • the polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
  • Formula I produces a reduction in body and mass and an ease of styling that is greater than for formula J.
  • Formula J does not provide the effects obtained with formula I.
  • Formula I produces effects which are retained after one or more shampooings.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in emulsion form for the treatment of keratin fibres, more particularly human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), a cosmetic treatment method employing the said composition, and the use of this composition for the care of the said fibres.

Description

Composition comprising a silicone copolymer, a silicone surfactant and a non-volatile PDMS, cosmetic treatment method and use
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in emulsion form for the treatment of keratin fibres, which comprises, among other ingredients, one or more silicone copolymers, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane, a cosmetic treatment method employing the said composition, and the use of this composition for the care of the hair.
Many people, depending on the nature of their hair, experience difficulties in styling their hair. Those with fine hair would like to give their hair more mass and volume. Those with curly hair, or even frizzy hair, on the other hand, would like to have the mass of their hair refined, the curl relaxed and disentangling made more easy.
Moreover, hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents, such as light and adverse weather, and by chemical or mechanical treatments such as brushing, combing, plaiting, bleaching, permanent waving and/or dyeing. As a result of this, the hair is often difficult to manage, and in particular is difficult to disentangle or to style, and heads of hair, even thick hair, do not readily maintain a good-looking style, owing to the fact that the hair lacks vigour, volume and responsiveness.
This degradation to the hair is increased, moreover, by the repetition of permanent hair colouring treatment, which involves applying to the hair a dye precursor and an oxidizing agent.
Therefore, to provide a remedy to this, it is now common to use styling products which condition the hair by giving it, in particular, body, mass and/or volume.
These styling products are generally cosmetic haircare compositions comprising one or more polymers which have a high affinity for the hair and whose function most often is to form a film on the surface of the hair for the purpose of modifying its surface properties, and in particular for conditioning it.
One disadvantage associated with the use of these haircare compositions lies in the fact that the cosmetic effects do not withstand washing with shampoo; the cosmetic effects conferred by such compositions have a tendency to disappear, in particular at the first wash, or rapidly after the first wash, in other words after the second or third wash.
Also known is the provision of coatings on the hair, on the basis of a composition comprising an electrophilic cyanoacrylate monomer, in particular from patent application FR 2 833 489. A composition of this kind produces very well coated, non-greasy hair. However, the coating obtained necessitates specific operating conditions, owing to the reactivity of the electrophilic monomer. Moreover, the coating obtained with these electrophilic monomers becomes sticky with fatty substances such as the sebum.
In order to overcome this disadvantage, consideration has also been given to increasing the staying power by performing a radical polymerization of certain monomers directly on the hair. However, ©specially in the case of curly hair, the treatments obtained in this way cause damage to the fibre, and the hair treated in this way is generally more difficult to disentangle.
Also in existence are silicone copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, better known under the name BioPSA. These copolymers are described in particular in documents WO 03/026596, WO 2004/073626, WO 2007/051505 and WO 2007/051506, for various cosmetic applications, such as application to the hair, nails and skin.
Patent application FR 291 8562 describes an anhydrous hair treatment composition which comprises one or more of these copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more cyclic or linear volatile silicones, and one or more non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes, with a given viscosity.
Compositions of this kind, however, do not provide entire satisfaction in terms of cosmetic properties (softness, disentangling, etc.) and of qualities of use (ease of application and placement, etc.) and of efficacy (uniformity of the applied composition). Another disadvantage associated with the use of the majority of these haircare compositions lies in the fact that the cosmetic effects imparted by such compositions are not obtained on all hair types: smooth, curled, curly or frizzy, fine or thick, greasy or dry hair.
Moreover, these haircare compositions are often not suitable for hair which has been treated with one or more short-term cosmetic treatments (shampoos, conditioners, leave-in care products, masks, styling gels, lacquers, waxes, etc.) or long-term cosmetic treatments (permanent waves, thiol- or alkali-mediated smoothing, alkaline straightening, permanent, semi-permanent and very short-term colouring, oxidation colouring, tone-on-tone colouring, direct colouring, bleaching, etc.).
There is therefore a genuine need to find cosmetic compositions, particularly for hair styling, which are easy to apply and place, which enhance the staying properties of the hairstyle over time, which give the hair good cosmetic properties, which are resistant to washing, and which are suitable for any type of hair, whether it has or has not undergone other treatments.
The aim of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition which achieves these objectives.
The present invention provides a hair treatment composition in emulsion form which comprises one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane. Surprisingly and advantageously, the Applicant has now found that, by combining one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid, one or more silicone surfactants and a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane, in the form of an emulsion, it is possible to obtain compositions with improved properties that solve the problems referred to above.
The invention further provides a cosmetic treatment method employing the said composition. Also provided by the present invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the care of keratin fibres, such as the hair. Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from reading the description and examples which follow.
The term "styling" is understood to refer to the fixing and/or retention of form of the hairstyle.
The composition, according to the invention comprises one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid.
The silicone copolymers according to the invention are obtained by reacting a silicone resin with a silicone fluid.
Copolymers of this kind are described in, for example,
"Silicone Pressure Sensitive Adhesives", Sobieski and Tangney, Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology (D. Satas Ed.), Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York.
In the copolymer, the silicone resin is present at a level of between 45% and 75% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the silicone fluid is present at a level of between 25% and 55% (relative to the total mass of silicone), the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and silicone fluid being less than or equal to 100. Preferably, the silicone resin is present at a level of between 55% and 65% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the silicone fluid is present at a level of between 35% and 45% (relative to the total mass of silicone), the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and silicone fluid being less than or equal to 100.
The silicone resin according to the invention is preferably the condensation product of SiO2 groups and R3 S O) ½ (triorganosilyl) groups for which each group R is selected independentl from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals and for which the ratio between the SiO2 functions and the R3(SiO) ½ functions in the silicone resin is from 0.6 to 0.9. Triorganosilyl groups which can be used to form the silicone resin may be trimethylsilyl, triethylsilyl, raethyl- methylpropylsilyl and dimethylvinylsilyl units and mixtures thereof. The trimethylsilyl group is the preferred group in the context of the invention. The silicone fluid according to the invention is preferably a diorganopolysiloxane having terminal OH functions which has a viscosity of between 100 and 100 000 centipoise (est) at 25 degrees Celsius (°C) and for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are selected independently from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals. The diorganosiloxanes are preferably linear polymers. Examples of diorganopolysiloxane may be, without limitation, a polydimethylsiloxane, an ethylmethylpolysiloxane, a copolymer of diraethylsiloxane and methylvinylsiloxane, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers having OH ends. The preferred diorganopolysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane.
Examples of synthesis of such a copolymer are described in, for example, patent US5162410 or patent CA71 1.756.
The copolymers according to the present invention may thus be prepared by heating the following mixture:
1. from 45% to 75% by mass of silicone resin which is the product of condensation of units SiO2 and R3(SiO) ½ for which each group R is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals and for which the ratio between the SiO2 functions and the R3(SiO) l /2 functions in the silicone resin is from 0.6 to 0.9.
2. from 25% to 55% by mass of diorganopolysiloxane fluid with terminal OH functions which has a viscosity of between 100 and 100 000 est at 25°C and for which the substituents of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently selected from methyl, ethyl, prop l and vinyl radicals.
3. from 0.001 % to 5% of a suitable catalyst, which is preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound selected preferably from primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, salts of the aforesaid amines with carboxylic acid, and quaternary ammonium salts.
The mixture is heated at a temperature of between 80°C and 160°C until the adhesive character of the resultant silicone copolymer is obtained. The copolymers preferred according to the invention are sold by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA® or Dow Corning 7-4XXX, it being possible for these BIO-PSA® products to be in two forms, standard or amine compatible, which are provided in different solvents with a number of silicone resin/silicone fluid ratios. These include in particular the grades 7-4400, 7-4500 and 7-4600. They also include Dow Corning 7-4405 Cosmetic Fluid, likewise provided by Dow Corning.
The copolymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 1 % and up to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 ,5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicone surfactants.
The silicone surfactants which can be used in the present invention are those which are well known to the skilled person. They may be water-soluble, spontaneously water-dispersible or water- insoluble. Preferably they are water-soluble or spontaneously Water- dispersible.
The silicone surfactants are selected for example from the compounds of general formulae (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V):
Figure imgf000007_0001
Figure imgf000008_0001
in which formulae
- Ri , identical or different at each occurrence, represents a C 1 -C30 linear or branched alkyl group or a phenyl group;
- R2, identical or different at each occurrence, represents -CcH2c-O-(C2H40)a-(C6H60)b-R5 or -CcH2c-0-(C4H80)a-R5;
- R3 and R4, which are identical or different, each denote a Ci - C12 linear or branched alkyl group, and preferably a methyl group;
- Rs, identical or different at each occurrence, is selected from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, a linear or branched alkoxy group containing from X to 6 carbon atoms, a linear or branched acyl group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, a group -S O3M or -OCOR6, a C 1 -C6 aminoalkoxy group which is optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C 1 -C4 alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a C2-C6 aminoacyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C 1 -C4 alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a group -NHCH2CH2COOM or -N(CH2CH2COOM)2, a C 1 -C12 aminoalkyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine and on the alkyl chain, by one or two C 1 -C4 alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a C 1 -C30 carboxyacyl group, a phosphono group which is optionally substituted by one or two substituted C 1 -C 12 aminoalkyl groups, or a group -CO(CH2)dCOOM, -OCOCHR7(CH2)dCOOM, - NHCO(CH2)dOH or -NH3Y;
- M, identical or different at each occurrence, denotes a hydrogen atom, Na, K, Li or NH4 or an organic amine;
- R6 denotes a C 1 -C30 linear or branched alkyl group;
- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a group SO3M;
- d varies from I to 1 0;
- m varies from 0 to 20;
- m' varies from 1 to 20;
- n varies from 0 to 500;
- p varies from 1 to 50;
- q varies from 0 to 20;
- a varies from 0 to 50;
- b varies from 0 to 50;
- a + b is greater than or equal to 1 ;
- c varies from 0 to 4;
- w varies from 1 to 100;
- Y represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (chloride, bromide), a sulphate or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate).
It is preferred to use silicone surfactants conforming to the general formulae (I) or (II) as defined above, and more particularly those conforming to the formulae (I) or (II) in which at least one, and preferably all, of the following conditions are met:
- c is equal to 2 or 3 ;
- R1 denotes the methyl group;
- Rs represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an acetyl group, and preferably a hydrogen atom;
- a varies from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25;
- b varies from 0 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20; - n varies from 0 to 100;
- p varies from 1 to 20.
The most particularly preferred silicone surfactants are, for example, those sold under the trade names Fluid DC 193 and DC 5225C by the company Dow Corning, Silwet® L 77 by the company OSI, and Mazil ® 756 by the company Mazer PPG.
This surfactant is preferably a silicone mixture comprising hydrophilic grafts- It is composed preferably of a mixture of ethoxylated (EO) and propoxylated (PO) polydimethylsiloxane (18 EO/18 PO), cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and water (10/88/2), which is sold under the name Dow Corning 5225C Formulation Aid.
The silicone surfactants are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of between 0.01 % and 10% by weight of active material, more preferably between 0.1 % and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention also comprises a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane.
In the context of the invention, a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) has a vapour pressure of less than 0.1 mmHg at 25°C.
Preferably, the non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) is a silicone oil.
In the context of the invention, a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) with a viscosity of more than 5 est is understood in particular to be a silicone oil having a vapour pressure of less than 0.1 mmHg at 25°C.
The non-volatile linear PDMS with a viscosity of more than 5 est may be selected from polydimethylsiloxanes alkyldimethicones; polyphenylmethylsiloxanes such as phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethicones, and vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.
The viscosity of the non-volatile linear PDMSs used in the present invention is greater than 5 est at 25°C. In one particular embodiment, this viscosity is between 5 est and 1 000 000 est, preferably between 5 est and 100 000 and. more preferably between 1 00 and 0 000 est.
This linear PDMS may be selected in particular from the silicones of formula (II):
Figure imgf000011_0001
in which:
R1 , R2, R5 and 6 are, together or separately, an atkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical or an aryl radical,
X is an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, or an amine radical,
n and p are integers selected such as to give a compound with a viscosity of more than 5 est; the sum n + p is preferably greater than 10.
Examples include the following polydimethylsiloxanes:
Wacker-Belsil DM 350 from the company Wacker
Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 350Cs from the company Dow Corning
Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid 1000 Cs from the company Dow Corning
Wacker Belsil DM 60000 from the company Wacker
Mirasil DM350 from, the company Bluestar
Mention may also be made of the polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name Dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
The non-volatile linear PDMS is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion. More specifically, it may be either in the form of an oil-in- vvater emulsion, with the continuous phase being the aqueous phase, or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, with the continuous phase being the fatty phase.
It preferably takes the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
The oily phase is preferably introduced into the composition at between 5% and 95% by weight of active material; more preferably between 5% and 90% of active material; more preferably between 10% and 80% of active material.
The oily phase of the emulsion may comprise one or more silicone oils other than a non-volatile linear PDMS, one or more non- silicone oils, or mixtures thereof*
These silicone oils may be chosen among volatile silicones.
In the context, of the invention, a volatile silicone is a silicone which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, having a vapour pressure at 25 °C of more than 0.1 mmHg and preferably of between 0.1 and 300 mmHg, more preferably between 0.1 and 200 mmHg.
Volatile silicones include linear or cyclic silicones having from 4 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Volatile silicones which can be used in the invention include, in particular, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethylethyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof. The volatile silicone is preferably selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane.
Examples include the decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DC-245 by the company Dow Corning, the octamethyltrisiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 est by the company Dow Corning, and the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name DC-200 Fluid 1 ,5 est by the company Dow Corning.
This cyclic volatile silicone generally has a low viscosity, for example a viscosity of less than 5 est at 25°C.
These silicone oils may also be chosen among non-volatile silicones other than a non-volatile linear PDMS.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more liquid, non-silicone fatty substances such as liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters.
A liquid hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon which is composed solely of atoms of carbon and of hydrogen and which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; equivalent to 1.013 x 1 05 Pa).
More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are selected from:
- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C^-Cit lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Pari earn®, and squalane.
In one preferred variant the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are selected from volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and their derivatives and liquid petrolatum.
A liquid fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non- alkoxyl ated fatty alcohol which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; equivalent to 1.013 x 10s Pa).
The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Preferably they are acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.
Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.
These liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols have at least in their structure at least one double or triple bond. The fatty alcohols of the invention preferably possess in their structure one or more double bonds. When two or more double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may be conjugated or non- conjugated.
These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are selected from oleic (or oleyi) alcohol, linoleic (or iinoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.
Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
A liquid fatty ester means a non-alkoxylated ester which is obtained from a fatty acid and/or a fatty alcohol and which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; equivalent to .1 .013 x 1 05 Pa).
The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 - 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 -C26 aliphatic lnonoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal 10.
For the esters of monoaloohols, preferably at least one of the alcohol or of the acid from which the esters of the invention are obtained is branched.
The monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols include ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate and ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C4- C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy, non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
These include in particular the following: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di(2~ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; trisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate
The composition may further comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably C 12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen- containing hydrocarbon compounds which possess a plurality of alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C 12-C22 fatty acids. Where they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearatc
Sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monoesters and diesters and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopaimitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates are more particularly used.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Finally, it is also possible to use the natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol.
Among these, mention may be made of plant oils.
Oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides which can be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters include, for example, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soya oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acid, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 8.1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
Preference will be given to using, as esters according to the invention, liquid fatty esters obtained from monoalcohols.
lsopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred. The composition of the invention preferably comprises one or more silicone oils other than the non volatile PDMS.
The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more other, additional fatty substances which are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
The additional fatty substances are selected more particularly from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
It is fecalled that, for the purposes of the invention, fatty alcohols, esters and acids have more particularly at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted, more particularly by one or more hydroxyl groups (more particularly 1 to 4), Where they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The solid fatty alcohols which are suitable for implementing the invention are selected more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol).
With regard to the additional esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohols, which are advantageously different from the triglycerides referred to above, they include in particular the solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
These esters include octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate; and hexyl stearate.
Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C 1 -C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C -C26 di-, tri~, tetra- or penta-hydroxy alcohols.
These include in particular dioctyl maleate. Among all of the additional esters referred to above, preference is given to using myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, and alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate.
The wax or waxes (non-silicone) are selected in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax and esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower* sold by the company Bertin (France), and animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes such as that sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
The non-liquid silicones in accordance with the invention may be present in the form of waxes, resins or gums.
The non-liquid additional silicone is preferably selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organically modified polysiloxanes containing at least one functional group selected from poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are especially polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, which are used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenyl- methylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.
Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
- the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with chain- end hydroxylation, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cycli c polydimethylsiloxane, also called cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;
- the mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 12 14 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product being an SF 30 gum, corresponding to a dimethicone and having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, in solution in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid, corresponding to decamethyleyelopentasiloxane;
- mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of an SE 30 gum, defined above and having a viscosity of 20 m2/s, and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 x 10"6 m2/s. This product contains preferably 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.
The organopolysiloxane resins which can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
R2SiO2 /2, R3SiOl 2, RSi03/2 and SiO4 /2
in which R represents an alkyl possessing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred among these products are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethyl siloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the triniethyl siloxysilicate type resins sold especially under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 - 5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The additional organically modified siloxanes include the polyorganosiloxanes containing:
polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, optionally containing C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups, such as (C12) alkyl- methicone copolyol; - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are more particularly C 1 -C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxy groups, such as the product sold under the name
Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
The solid fatty substance or substances are optionally present in the composition in an amount varying from 0.1 % to 30%, preferably in an amount varying from 0.2% to 20%, and more preferably still in an amount varying from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may preferably comprise an amount of water which is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of water in the composition according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 95%. more preferably less than or equal to 90%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition may comprise a polymer which is able to donate hydrogen bonds and is water-soluble or fat-soluble. The polymer may more preferably be a silicone polymer and the hydrogen bond donor a urea group, more particularly a polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer composed preferably of dimethylpolysiloxane/urea copolymers, with the INCI name polyureadimethicone, and even more preferably of the products sold under the reference Wacker-Belsil ® UD 60, Wacker-Belsil ® UD 80, Wacker-Belsil ® UD 140 and Wacker-Belsil ® UD 200 by the company Wacker.
The cosmetic composition may further comprise one oi more fixative polymers.
A fixative polymer for the purposes of the present invention means any polymer which allows a given hairstyle to be shaped or have its shape maintained. The fixative polymers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are selected in particular from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof.
A "cationic polymer" for the purposes of the present invention means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups.
The cationic fixative polymers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably selected from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a number-average molecular mass of between 500 and about 5 000 000, and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers:
( 1 ) homopolymcrs or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides containing amine functions, comprising at. least one of the units of formulae A, B and C below:
Figure imgf000021_0001
in which:
R1 and R2, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; A is a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from .1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, 5 and R6, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;
X denotes a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of class ( 1 ) also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers that may be selected from the class of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides which are substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C 1 -4) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these copolymers of class (1 ), mention may be made of the following:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate which are quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc® by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trirnethyl ammonium chloride which are described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080976 and are sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium methosulphate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/ dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the company ISP, as for example Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or else the products called Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French, patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinyl- pyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix® VC 713 by the company ISP, and
quaternized yinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as, in particular, the product sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company ISP;
(2) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole.
(3) chitosans or salts thereof; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glut am ate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.
These compounds include the chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight which is sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies, and the chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate which is sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
The commercialized products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The anionic fixative polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid, and have a number- average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and 5 000 000.
The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those conforming to the formula (A l ):
Figure imgf000023_0001
iii which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A 1 denotes a methylene group optionally joined to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group when n is greater than 1 , via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulphur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, Rg denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, and R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a group -CH2-COOH or a phenyl or benzyl group.
In the formula mentioned above, a lower alkyl group denotes preferably a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.
The anionic fixative polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
A) Acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers or salts thereof sold under the name Ultrahold* by BASF, the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names Reten 421 , 423 or 425 by Hercules, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.
B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent application 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylatcd and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described in particular in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or sold under the name Quadramer by American Cyanamid. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Luvimer8 100 P by BASF.
Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers as an aqueous dispersion, sold under the name Amerhold* DR 25 by Amerchol.
C) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in. their chain and optionally other monomers such as ailylic esters or methailylic esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon chain such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively another vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester monomer of an a- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781 , 1 564 1 10 and 2 439 798. Commercial products falling into this class are the resins 28-29-30, 26- 13- 14 and 28- 13 - 1 0 sold by National Starch,
D) Copolymers of C -C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides selected from:
- copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 1 13 and GB patent 839 805. Commercial products are in particular those sold under the names Gantrez*1 AN or ES by ISP,
- copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers selected from allylic or methallylic esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, a-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
These polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 of the applicant.
E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
The homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acryiamidoalkylsulphonic units.
These polymers can be selected in. particular from:
- polyvinylsulphonic acid salts having a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, and also acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone,
- polystyrenesulphonic acid salts such as the sodium salts that are sold for example under the names Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719,
- polyacrylamidesulphonic acid salts, such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631 and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid sold under the name Cosmedia Polymer H SP 1 180 by Henkel.
The anionic fixative polymers are preferably selected from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert- butylacrylamide terpolymers sold especially under the name Ultrahold® Strong by BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the name R£sine 28-29-30 by National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez® by ISP, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by Rohm Pharma, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer* MAEX or MAE by BASF, the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by BASF, and the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name Aristoflex® A by BASF.
Among the anionic fixative polymers mentioned above, it is more particularly preferred in the context of the present invention to use the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acryiate/N~tert«butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name R sine 28-29-30 by National Starch, and the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by BASF.
The amphoteric fixative polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention can be selected from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprisin at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, οτ alternatively B and C can denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulphobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer containing an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
The amphoteric fixative polymers corresponding to the definition given, above that are more particularly preferred are selected from the following polymers:
(1 ) copolymers having acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, ct-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylarainoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkyiaminoalkylmethacrylamides and -acrylamides. Such compounds are described in patent US 3 836 537.
(2) polymers comprising units derived from:
a) at least one monomer selected from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters containing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulphate.
The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethyiacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octyl- acrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decyiacrylamide, N-dodecylacryl- amide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomers are selected more particularly from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butyl arainoethyl, Ν,Ν'-dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butyl aminoethyl methacrylates.
Use is made particularly of the copolymers whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991 ) name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Araphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by National Starch.
(3 ) crosslinked and acylated polyaminoamides partially or totally deriving from polyaminoamides of general formula:
Figure imgf000028_0001
in which R10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, of these acids, or a group derived from the addition of any one of the said acids with a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine, and Z denotes a group deriving from a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:
in proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the group
Figure imgf000029_0002
where x - 2 and p - 2 or 3, or alternatively x = 3 and p = 2
this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetraamine or from dipropylenetriamine;
b) in proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (A3) above in which x - 2 and p ~ 1 and which derives from ethylenediamine, or the group deriving from piperazine:
Figure imgf000029_0001
c) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH(CH2)e-NH- deriving from hexamethylenediamine,
these polyaminoamides being crossHnked by addition reaction of a difunctional crosslinking agent selected from cpihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, using from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and being acyl ated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone, or salts thereof,
The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably selected from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-tri- methyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic acid, acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone; the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
(4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:
Figure imgf000030_0001
in which R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R 1 2 and R 1 3 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R and R |5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sura of the carbon atoms in 14 and R 1 5 does not exceed 10.
The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z301 by Sandoz.
(5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer units corresponding to the following formulae:
Figure imgf000030_0002
the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5% and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30% and 90%, it being understood that, in this unit (F), represents a group of formula:
Figure imgf000031_0001
in which, if q = 0, R1 7, R 18 and R 19, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyi, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups R1 7, R18 and R 19 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
or, if q - 1 , R 1 7, R18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
(6) Polymers containing units conforming to the general formula (A4) are described, for example, in French patent 1 400 366:
Figure imgf000031_0002
in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CHjO, CH3CH2O or phenyl group, R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C\-C<, lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a Ci -Ce lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2 , R24 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)- group, R22 having the meanings mentioned above.
(7) polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan sold under the name "Evalsan" by Jan Dekker.
(8) amphoteric polymers of the type -D-X-D-X selected from: a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:
-D-X-D-X-D- (A5)
where D denotes a group
Figure imgf000032_0001
/
and X denotes the symbol E or E\ E or E\ which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which can comprise, in addition to the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulphur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups. b) polymers of formula:
-D-X-D-X- (A6)
where D denotes a group
Figure imgf000033_0001
and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E' ; E has the meaning given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and contains one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
(9) (C 1 -Cs)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkyl- amine such as Ν,Ν-dimethyIaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an Ν,Ν-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.
Among the amphoteric fixative polymers described above, the ones that are most particularly preferred according to the invention are those of class (3), such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71 or Lovocryl® 47 by National Starch and those of class (4) such as the copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxy- methylammonioethyl methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer® Z301 by Sandoz.
The nonionic fixative polymers that may be used according to the present invention are selected, for example, from:
- polyalkyloxazolines;
- vinyl acetate homopolymers;
- vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dib tyl maleate;
- acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, for instance copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by Rohm & Haas under the names Primal* AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by BASF under the name 8845, or by Hoechst under the name Appretan® N9212 ;
- acrylonitrile copolymers and copolymers of a nonionic monomer selected, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by Rohm & Haas;
- styrene homopolymers;
- styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene and of an alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 691 1 , Mowilith* DM 61 1 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas* SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 sold by Rhodia Chimie; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine;
- polyamides;
- vinyllactam homopolymers other than vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers, such as the pol vinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by BASF; and
- vinyllactam copolymers such as a polyvinylpyrrolidone/ vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinyIpyrrolidone/vinyI acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by BASF; and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol* VAP 343 by BASF.
The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
As fixative polymers it is also possible to use functionalized or non-functionalized, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric, silicone or non-silicone polyurethanes, or mixtures thereof,
The polyurethanes to which the present invention is more particularly directed are those described in patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, of which the Applicant is proprietor, and also in patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510, of the company BASF, and EP 0 619 1 1 1 of the company National Starch.
Polyurethanes particularly suitable in the present invention include the products sold under the names Luviset PUR.® and Luviset® Si PUR by the company BASF.
This polymer may be neutralized or non-neutralized, and more particularly non-neutralized. This polymer may preferably be anionic, and even more preferably may be:
- a vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl neodecanoate terpolymer mixture sold by Akzo Nobel under the name resyn 28 - 2930,
an octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/hydroxypropyl methacrylate/acrylic acid/tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer sold by Akzo Nobel under the name amphomer®,
an acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer mixture sold by BASF under the name ultrahold strong.
The fixative polymer or polymers is or are present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount varying from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactants different from the silicone surfactant or surfactants defined above. More particularly, these surfactants may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic additional surfactants.
The ionic surfactant or surfactants used in the cosmetic composition may be cationic surfactants.
Examples of cationic surfactants which can be used in the cosmetic composition include, in particular, the optionally polyalkoxylated salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned include:
- those which have the general formula (Γ) below:
Figure imgf000036_0001
in which the radicals Re to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals Rg to Rn comprising a fatty chain having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and halogens.
The aliphatic radicals are selected, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (Cj-Cc), alkylatnide, alkyl(Cj2-C22)- amidoalkyl(C2-C6), aIkyl(C12-C22) acetate and hydroxyalkyl radicals containing approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alk l(C2-Ca) sulphates and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethyiammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyl trim ethyl - ammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethyihydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulphate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium metho- sulphate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulphate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearaniidopropy.ldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (II) below:
Figure imgf000037_0001
in which R 12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived, for example, from tallow fatty acids, j 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical or an alkyl or alkenyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ru represents a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical, R1 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates and alkyl- or alkylaryl- sulphonates. R 12 and R 13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21. carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ru denotes a methyl radical and 15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- the quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (III) ;
Figure imgf000037_0002
in which Rjg denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R 17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from ί to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(R i 7a)(Rt8a)N-(CH2)3 , Rt*a, RJ 7a, Riga, Ri«, RJ 9, R20 and R¾i, which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Compounds of this kind are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT< available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below:
Figure imgf000038_0001
in which:
R22 is selected from CiC« alkyl radicals and C i C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
R23 is selected from :
- the radical
Figure imgf000038_0002
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C22 hydrocarbon radicals R27,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is selected from:
- the radical
Figure imgf000038_0003
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C j -Ce hydrocarbon radicals R29,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24 , R26 and R28 , which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C2 1 hydrocarbon radicals;
r, s and t, which are identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6;
y is an integer from I to 10;
x and z, which are identical or different, are integers from 0 to
10;
X- is an organic or inorganic, simple or complex anion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 5, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R.2 S denotes R29.
The alkyl radicals 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R27, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon radical R29, it has preferably 1 to
3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, 24 > 26 and 28, which are identical or different, are selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cn-C2 i hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 1 1 - C2 ] alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with the ester-functional ammonium.
The anion X- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulphate.
Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts of formula (IV) in which:
- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical,
- x and y are equal to 1 ;
- z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
- r, s and t are equal to 2;
- R23 is selected from:
- the radical
Figure imgf000040_0001
- methyl, ethyl or C 1 -C22 hydrocarbon radicals,
- a hydrogen atom;
- R.2S is selected from:
- the radical
Figure imgf000040_0002
—
- a hydrogen atom;
- R2 J 26 and R28 , which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13-C 17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C^-Cn alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
The hydrocarbon radicals are advantageously linear.
Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (IV) such as the diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxy-ethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl- dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl-methylamraonium and raonoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulphate in particular), and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains two or more acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.
These products axe obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulphate), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl para-toluenesulphonate, glycol chlorohyd in or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Compounds of this kind are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority of diester salts.
Examples of mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl- dihydroxyethyl-methylammoniurn methyl sulphate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyetbyl-methylammonium methyl sulphate and 15% to 30% of triacyloxyethyl-methylamraonium methyl sulphate, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4, 137, 1 80.
The cationic surfactants which are particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are selected from quaternary ammonium salts, and in particular from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride.
The ionic surfactants which can be used in the cosmetic composition may also be anionic surfactants.
Anionic surfactants which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention include, in particular, the salts, especially the alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts, of the following types: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylaryl- sulphonates, a-olefinsulphonates, paraffinsulphonates, alkylsulpho- succinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamidesulphosuccinates, alkylsulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acyllactylates, N-acyltaurates, and alkyl polyglucoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting preferably a phenyl or benzyl group.
In addition mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactoside- uronic acids and their salts, and also of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-24)ethercarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(Ce.24)aryI- (Ce.24)ethercarboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-24)amido- ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, especially those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
Preference is given to using alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and. alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof, especially in the form of salts with alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, with ammonium, with amine or with amino alcohol.
The amphoteric surfactants (true amphoterics comprising an ionic group and a potentially ionic group of opposite charge, or zwitterionics, simultaneously comprising two opposite charges) may be selected from the following surfactants:
- betaines in general, especially carboxybetaines, for example Iauryl betaine (Mirataine BB from the company hodia) or octyl betaine or cocobetaine (Mirataine BB-FLA from Rhodia); amidoalkyl betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) ( irataine BDJ from the company Rhodia or Mirataine BET C-30 from. Rhodia);
- sulpho-betaines or sultaines, such as cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine (Mirataine CBS from the company Rhodia);
* alkylamphoacetates and alkylamphodiaeetates, comprising, for example, a coco or lauryl chain (Miranol C2M Cone NP, C32 and L32 in particular, from the company Rhodia);
- alkylamphopropionates or alkylamphodipropionates (Miranol C2M SF);
- alkyl amphohydroxypropyl sultaines (Miranol CS),
- alkylamine oxides, for example lauramine oxide (INCI).
The additional nonionic surfactants are more particularly selected from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or poly- glycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units axe more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants include the following:
oxyalkylenated alkyl(Cg-C24)phenols,
oxyalkylenated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated
C8-C30 alcohols,
oxyalkylenated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cg-Cjo amides,
esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8- C30 acids and polyethylene glycols,
polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acids and sorbitol. ,
saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated vegetable oils.
The surfactants feature a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide which is preferably from 1 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50 and with preference from 2 to 30.
In accordance with one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are selected from oxyethylenated CS-C30 alcohols containing from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.
As examples of mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, preference is given to using mono- or polyglycerolated C8 -C40 alcohols.
More particularly, the mono- or polyglycerolated Cg-Cto alcohols correspond to the following formula:
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]m-H
in which R represents a linear or branched Cg-Cfo» preferably C8-C30, alkyl or alkenyl radical and m represents a number from I to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.
Examples of compounds suitable in the context of the invention include lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY GLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.
The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohol in so far as the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, within a commercial product, there may be two or more species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols present alongside one another, in the form of a mixture.
Among the mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferred more particularly to use a Cs Cio alcohol with one mole of glycerol, a Cio/C i 2 alcohol with 1 raol of glycerol and a Cu alcohol with 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Additional nonionic surfactants also include optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides.
The additional surfactant optionally present in the composition is preferably a nonionic surfactant.
The additional surfactant or surfactants are present preferably at a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably at a concentration of from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably at a concentration of from 0.1% to 1 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5: According to one variant, the hair treatment composition is a composition for colouring keratin fibres that further comprises one or more pigments, A composition of this kind produces lasting and colouring coatings on the keratin fibres without detriment to the said fibres.
Ϊ0 By pigment is meant all of the pigments which provide colour to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05%, and preferably less than 0.01 %.
The pigments which may be used are selected in particular
15 from organic pigments and/or mineral pigments that are known in the art, particularly those described in Kirk-Othmer's encyclopaedia of chemical technology and Ullmann's encyclopaedia of industrial chemistry.
These pigments may be in the form of powder or pigmentary Q paste. They may be coated or uncoated.
The pigments may be selected, for example, from mineral pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments, lakes, special-effect pigments such as nacres, metallic pigments or flakes, and mixtures thereof.
5 The pigment may be a mineral pigment. A mineral pigment is any pigment which satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. The mineral pigments useful in the present invention include iron oxides or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and Prussian 0 blue, and titanium dioxide.
The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, isoindolinone, isoindoiine, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
In particular, the organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phtbalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42.090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CT 61 565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1 1725, 15510, 45370 and 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
The pigments in accordance with the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426, These composite pigments may be compounds especially of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder for ensuring the binding of the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.
The organic pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
Among the dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (C I 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053 ), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1 ).
The pigment may also be a special-effect pigment. By special- effect pigments are meant pigments that generally create a non- uniform coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.)- They thus contrast with coloured pigments that afford a conventional uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
Several types of special-effect pigments exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index, such as nacres or flakes.
Examples of special-effect pigments include nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide, or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxides, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and especially with Prussian blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide and an organic pigment as defined above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These pigments may also be mica particles superposed on their surface with at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic colorants.
The nacres may more particularly possess a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper glint or colour.
By way of illustration of the nacres that can be employed in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the gold-coloured nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze ( 17353) (Colorona), by Eckart under the name Prestige Bronze and Prestige Soft Bronze, and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange ( 17449) (Microna); the brown-shade nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the copper-glint nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica) and by Eckart under the name Prestige Copper and Prestige Soft Copper; the red-glint nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow- glint nacres sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the gold-glint red-shade nacres sold by Engelhard under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the gold-glint black nacres sold in particular by Englehard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Matte blue (1 7433 ) (Microna), Dark Blue (1 17324) (Colorona), the silver-glint white nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink- orange nacres sold in particular by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.
In addition to nacres on a mica support, it is also possible to envisage multi-layer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect that are not fixed onto a substrate, for instance liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special-effect pigments further comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by Quantum Dots Corporation.
The pigment may also be a metallic pigment. The metallic pigment may be selected from silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium and alloys of these metals. The metallic pigment is preferably selected from copper, zinc, aluminium, titanium, silver, gold and alloys of these metals. More preferably a metallic pigment is used which is selected from aluminium (advantageously having an aluminium content of greater than or equal to 99%), copper (advantageously having a copper content of greater than or equal to 95%), and bronze (preferably having a copper content of from 70% to 95% and a zinc content of from 5% to 30%).
The metallic pigment may also be coated with at least one layer, referred to as a "coating", of at least one organic or inorganic material. When the metallic particle is coated in addition to or alternatively to the coating of lubricant used in the course of its production, it is coated preferably with at least one layer of silicon oxide SiO^. These SiC>2-coated metallic particles and their preparation are described in, for example, the document DE 10238090.
Metallic particles include particles of aluminium, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 21 00 EAC® by Silberline and Metalure® by Eckart. Mention may also be made of bronze powders such as those sold under the names Premier Super 8000 by Wolstenholme and under the names Rothoflex, Lithoflex and Standard by Eckart, with, for example, the references Standart Bronze Powder Offset 3000 Super Pale Gold (D50 3-5 μιη) and Lithoflex XA 40-03 Rich Pale Gold (D50 3-5 μιη). Mention may also be made of particles of metal alloy, such as bronze powders coated with silica, which are sold under the name Visionaire Honey (size 5-50 μτη) and under the name Visionaire Amber (size 5-50 μιη) by Eckart, and also those sold under the name Dorolan 08/0 Pale Gold (D50 7-9 μιη), the SiC>2-coated aluminium powder sold under the reference Visionaire Silver Sea (size 5-50 μπι) and the Si02-coated copper powders sold under the reference Visionaire Cinnamon (size 5-50 μιη) and under the reference Visionaire Lava (size 5-50 μηι) by Eckart, and also those sold under the name Dorolan 1 0/0 Copper (D50 9- 1 1 μηι).
The variety of pigments that may be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colours, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
The size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μιη, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μηι and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 μηι.
The pigments may be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.
The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or fiocculation. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of two or more thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can physically or chemically attach to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, 12-hydroxystearic acid esters and Cs to C20 fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly( 12- hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlace! PI 00 by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/ oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference DC2-5185.
The pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be surface-treated with an organic agent.
Thus, the pigments that have been surface-treated beforehand, which are useful in the context of the invention, are pigments that have totally or partially undergone a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electrochemical, mechanocheraical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described especially in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 1 05. pp. 53-64, before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents may be selected, for example, from amino acids; waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol and lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminium salts of fatty acids, for example aluminium stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example chitosan, cellulose and derivatives thereof; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; proteins; alkanolamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes and siloxysilicates; organofluorine compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or may have undergone several surface treatments.
The surface-treated pigments that are useful in the context of the present invention may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available in the required form. Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are coated with an organic layer.
The organic agent with which the pigments are treated may be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surface agent or creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments.
The surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the pigments or the fillers. This method is especially described in patent US 4 578 266.
An organic agent covalently bonded to the pigments will preferably be used.
The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferentially from 1 % to 1 0% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigments.
When they are present, the amount of pigments is generally between 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-colouring fillers.
The non-colouring fillers may be selected from those that are well known to those skilled it the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by the company Atochem, poly- -alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers, for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel* by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methaerylate particles and silicone resin micro-beads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 1 8 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.
It is also possible to use a compound that is capable of swelling on heating, and especially heat-expandable particles such as non-expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride/acrylo- nitrile/m ethyl, methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer or copolymer, for instance those sold, respectively, under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel® 007WU by the company Akzo Nobel.
The fillers used are preferably inorganic fillers.
When the are present, the amount of non-colouring fillers is generally between 0.1 % to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more other adjuvants or ingredients selected from cationic polymer-type conditioning agents, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, plasticizers, inorganic thickeners, organic thickeners, which are polymeric or non-polymeric and associative or non- associative, water-soluble and fat-soluble, silicone or non-silicone sunscreen agents, permanent or temporary dyes such as direct natural or synthetic or inorganic (base or coupler) dyes, fragrances, peptizing agents, preservatives, ceramides and pseudoceramides, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, proteins, sequestrants, solubilizers, alkalifying agents, acidifying agents, corrosion inhibitors, reducing agents or antioxidants, oxidizing agents and flakes.
A person skilled in the art would ensure that any adjuvants or ingredients that are selected, and their amount, are selected such that they are not detrimental to the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
The adjuvant or adjuvants and ingredient or ingredients are preferably present at a concentration of from 0.001 % to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents.
Organic solvents include, for example, linear or branched C2- C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyois and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
Such organic solvents may be present in proportions preferably of between 1 % and 40% by weight and more preferentially between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition in which they are contained.
The composition may take a number of formulated forms of varying viscosities, such as, for example, the form of a milk, fluid or thickened emulsion, ointment, cream or any other formulating form.
The composition may be present in a container in the form of a bottle, pot, pump flask, flask, tube or spray container, with or without applicator, for each of the packaging elements referred to before.
The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, more particularly human keratin fibres such as the hair, for example a styling method, which comprises applying an effective amount of an above-described composition to the wet or dry hair, and in rinsing the hair or not rinsing the hair after an optional contact time or after optional drying.
The composition is preferably a leave-in (non-rinse) composition.
There are a number of possible methods of implementation: according to the invention, the method comprises a step whereby the composition is applied to wet or dry hair. Depending on the method, the composition may not be rinsed out, or the method may not include a rinsing step.
The composition is preferably not rinsed out.
This step may be preceded by various non-permanent cosmetic treatments, such as shampooing, conditioning, or application of a leave-in care product, or permanent treatments, such as permanent waving, thiol-mediated or alkali-mediated smoothing, alkaline straightening, permanent, semi-permanent or very short-term colouring, bleaching, or any other cosmetic treatment.
According to the invention, the process may include, following the application of the composition according to the invention, and optionally of a rinsing step, an additional step of supplying heat for drying, hairsetting, blow-drying, the use of flat tongs or an iron, drying under a hood, drying with a hairdryer or any other device that provides heat. The supplying of heat may be carried out at between 50°C and 220°C.
During drying, a mechanical action may be carried out on the locks of hair, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair,
The effects of the composition according to the invention may be reinforced by the supplying of heat.
The examples below are given as an illustration of and not as limitation on the present invention. EXAMPLES
Examples of compositions for providing body and mass to fine, Caucasian-type hair. Example 1 :
The following compositions are prepared:
Figure imgf000056_0001
♦The polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
A comparison between formula A according to the invention and comparative formula B, carried out on swatches and evaluated by a panel of testers, shows that formula A is able to provide body and mass. Formula B has a slightly greasy feel and is not acceptable on the basis of its heaviness.
Example 2 :
Figure imgf000057_0001
*The polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied "by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
A comparison between formula C according to the invention and comparative formula D, carried out on swatches and evaluated by a panel of testers, shows that formula C is able to provide body and mass. Formula D has a slightly greasy feel and is not acceptable on the basis of its heaviness.
Example 3 :
Figure imgf000058_0001
*The polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
A comparison between formula E according to the invention and comparative formula F, carried out on swatches and evaluated by a panel of testers, shows that formula E is able to provide body and mass. Formula F has a slightly greasy feel and is not acceptable on the basis of its heaviness.
58
Example 4 :
Figure imgf000059_0001
♦The polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
A comparison between formula G according to the invention and comparative formula H, carried out on swatches and evaluated by a panel of testers, shows the following:
Formula G produces a reduction in body and mass and a greater ease of styling than formula H.
Formula G produces effects which are retained after one or more shampooings. 59
Example 5 :
Figure imgf000060_0001
♦The polydimethylsiloxane may be Wacker-Belsil DM 350, supplied by the company Wacker, or Xiameter pmx-200 silicone fluid 350cs, supplied by the company Dow Corning.
A comparison between formulas I and J , carried out on swatches and evaluated by a panel of testers, shows the following:
Formula I produces a reduction in body and mass and an ease of styling that is greater than for formula J. Formula J does not provide the effects obtained with formula I.
Formula I produces effects which are retained after one or more shampooings.
Formulas K and L according to the invention, by comparison with formula 1, give substantially the same results.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in emulsion form for treating keratin fibres, more particularly human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising:
- one or more copolymers based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid,
- one or more silicone surfactants, and
- a non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane.
2. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% and preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the copolymer based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid is the product of the reaction between a silicone resin and a silicone fluid, the proportion of silicone resin varying between 45% and 75%, preferably between 55% and 65%, relative to the total mass of silicone, and the proportion of silicone fluid varying between 25% and 55%, preferably between 35% and 45%, relative to the total mass of silicone, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and of silicone fluid being less than or equal to 1 00.
4. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the copolymer based on silicone resin and on silicone fluid is present in an amount from 1 % to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount from 1.5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly an amount from 1.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is selected from the compounds of general formulae (I), (II), (III), (IV) and (V) :
Figure imgf000062_0001
in which formulae
- Rl s identical or different at each occurrence, represents a C 1 -C30 linear or branched alkyl group or a phenyl group;
- R2, identical or different at each occurrence, represents -CcH2c-0-(C2H40)a-(C6H*0)b-R5 or -C.H2C-0-(C4H80}a-Rs;
- 3 and R4, which are identical, or different, each denote a C|- C 1 2 linear or branched alkyl group, and preferably a methyl group;
- Rj, identical or different at each occurrence, is selected from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, a linear or branched alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a linear or branched acyl group containing from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl group, a group -SO3M or -OCOR<j, a C1-C6 aminoalkoxy group which is optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C 1 -C4 alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a C2-Ce aminoacyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C 1 -C4 alkyi radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a group -NHCH2CH2COOM or -N(CH2CH2COOM}2, a d-Ci2 aminoalkyl group which is optionally substituted on the amine and on the alkyl chain by one or two CJ-C alkyl radicals which optionally carry at least one hydroxyl group, a C C30 carboxyacyl group, a phosphono group which is optionally substituted by one or two substituted C 1 -Cl2 aminoalkyl groups, or a group -CO(CH2)dCOOM, -OCOCHR7CH2)dCOOM, - NHCO(CH2)dOH or -NH3Y;
- M, identical or different at each occurrence, denotes a hydrogen atom, N¾, K, Li or NH4 or an organic amine;
- Rfi denotes a C 1 -C30 linear or branched alkyl group;
- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a group SO3M;
- d varies from 1 to 10;
- m varies from 0 to 20;
- m' varies from 1 to 20;
- n varies from 0 to 500;
- p varies from 1 to 50;
- q varies from 0 to 20;
- a varies from 0 to 50;
- b varies from 0 to 50;
- a + b is greater than or equal to 1 ;
- c varies from 0 to 4;
- w varies from 1 to 100;
- Y represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (chloride, bromide), a sulphate or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate).
6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is selected from the compounds of general formulae (0 or (II) in which all of the following conditions are met:
- c is equal to 2 or 3;
- Ri denotes the methyl group;
- Rs represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or an acetyl group, and preferably a hydrogen atom;
- a varies from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25;
- b varies from 0 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20;
- n varies from 0 to 100;
- p varies from I to 20.
7. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the silicone surfactant is a polydimethylsiloxane containing 18 mol of ethylene oxide and 18 mol of propylene oxide.
8. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the silicone surfactant or surfactants are included in the composition in an amount of between 0,01% and 10% by weight of active substance, more preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane is a silicone oil.
I.0. Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxane is present in the composition in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
I I . Composition according to any of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises one or more pigments and/or one or more additional surfactants different from those defined in the preceding claims.
12. Cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 1 1 , characterized in that it further comprises one or more ingredients from among polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymers, fixative polymers, inorganic fillers, preservatives, direct or oxidation dyes, and fragrances.
13. Cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 1 1 , characterized in that it takes the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
14. Cosmetic treatment method characterized in that it comprises applying a cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 13, more particularly to keratin fibres, such as the hair.
15. Cosmetic treatment method according to Claim 14, characterized in that it further comprises a step of supplying heat by any tool which supplies heat.
1 6. Cosmetic treatment method according to either of Claims 14 and 1 5, characterized in that the application of the said composition is not followed by rinsing.
17. Cosmetic treatment method according to any of Claims 1.4 to 16, characterized in that the composition may be applied following one or more cosmetic treatments.
1 8. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 13 for the care of keratin fibres, such as the hair.
PCT/EP2011/054648 2010-03-25 2011-03-25 Composition comprising a silicone copolymer, a silicone surfactant and a non-volatile pdms, cosmetic treatment method and use. WO2011117403A2 (en)

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FR1052169A FR2957790B1 (en) 2010-03-25 2010-03-25 COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SILICONE COPOLYMER, A SILICONE SURFACTANT, COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS AND USE
FR1052169 2010-03-25
US32245910P 2010-04-09 2010-04-09
US61/322,459 2010-04-09

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WO2020201410A1 (en) * 2019-04-02 2020-10-08 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a branched alkane and a combination of particular silicones
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Cited By (5)

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WO2020201410A1 (en) * 2019-04-02 2020-10-08 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a branched alkane and a combination of particular silicones
JP2022527344A (en) * 2019-04-02 2022-06-01 ロレアル A cosmetic composition comprising a branched alkane and a particular silicone combination.
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof

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