WO2013144263A1

WO2013144263A1 - Reshaping process and composition comprising at least 40% by weight of non-silicone fatty substances and at least one inorganic thickener

Info

Publication number: WO2013144263A1
Application number: PCT/EP2013/056631
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anne Bouchara; Gaëlle PETIT; Grégory Plos; Leïla Hercouet
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-03-27
Filing date: 2013-03-27
Publication date: 2013-10-03
Also published as: FR2988605A1; FR2988605B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners in the form of particles having a primary number-average size ranging from 0.1 to 500 µm, the composition comprising no colouring agent. The invention also relates to a process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners in particle form, and a step of heating the keratin fibres at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C by means of an iron after application of said cosmetic composition.

Description

Reshaping process and composition comprising at least 40 % by weight of non-silicone fatty substances and at least one inorganic thickener

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more particular inorganic thickeners .

The invention also relates to a process for permanently reshaping and in particular straightening keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying said cosmetic composition to the keratin fibres and a step of heating the keratin fibres by means o f an iron after application of said cosmetic composition.

Many people are not satisfied with the appearance of their hair; in particular, people who have curly hair most commonly seek to obtain straight hair, and conversely, individuals who have straight hair wish to have curly hair.

The first of the techniques normally used for permanently reshaping the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the -S-S - disulfide bonds of keratin (keratocystine) using a composition containing a suitable reducing agent (reduction step), and then, after having rinsed the head of hair thus treated, generally with water, in reconstituting said disulfide bonds, in a second step, by applying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand with, for example, rollers, an oxidizing composition (oxidation step , also known as fixing step) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape. This technique thus makes it possible to make the hair wavy (permanent- wave process) and/or to straighten (relax) the hair. The new shape given to the hair by a chemical treatment such as that above is long- lasting and in particular withstands washing with water or with shampoos, as opposed to the simple conventional techniques o f temporary reshaping, such as hairsetting.

The reducing compositions that may be used for the first step of a permanent-reshaping operation, and in particular straightening operation, generally contain sulfites, bisulfites, alkylphosphines or, preferably, thio ls as reducing agents. Among the latter, those commonly used are cysteine and various derivatives thereof, cysteamine and derivatives thereo f, thiolactic acid or thioglycolic acid, and salts thereo f and also esters thereof, especially glyceryl thioglycolate.

The oxidizing compositions required for performing the fixing step are usually compositions based on aqueous hydrogen peroxide so lution.

In the context of hair relaxing and straightening techniques, this permanent reshaping operation is generally performed on curly or vo luminous hair so as to obtain more or less pronounced straightening and a reduction of the vo lume and apparent mass of the hair.

However, such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. This is because, although this technique proves to be very effective for modifying the shape of the hair, it still degrades the hair fibres, which is mainly due to the high contents of reducing agents used in the reducing compositions and also to the various more or less long leave- on times that may be invo lved in such a process .

This technique can thus induce in the long-term an impairment of the quality o f the hair, leading to a decrease in the cosmetic properties thereof, such as the sheen thereof, and a degradation of the mechanical properties thereof, more particularly of the mechanical strength thereo f, due to swelling of the hair during the rinsing between the reduction step and the oxidation step, which can also be reflected by an increase in the porosity o f said hair. These drawbacks are in particular observed with thioglycolic acid, which is generally used in a basic medium at pH values between 8.5 and 9.5.

Moreover, if the technique of permanent reshaping of the hair described previously is applied to hair that has undergone prior artificial co louring, this technique usually leads to degradation or stripping of this artificial co louring.

Similarly, if a co louring is applied to permanent-waved hair according to the technique described previously, the colour obtained is very different from the colour normally obtained on non-permanent- waved natural hair.

It has also been observed that the use of reducing agents results in an unsatisfactory durability for the straightening of the hair, in particular for the relaxing or smoothing of the hair.

Finally, it is very common to have to deal with problems o f odours, both with the reducing compositions used, and in particular those containing thio ls, and with the hair reduced.

The second of the techniques normally used for obtaining hair straightening or relaxing consists in performing an operation known as lanthionization, using a composition containing a base belonging to the hydroxide family. It results in the replacement of the (-CH2-S-S-CH2-) disulfide bonds with

(-CH₂-S-CH₂-) lanthionine bonds. This lanthionization operation invo lves two consecutive chemical reactions :

^■ The first reaction consists of a beta-elimination on the cystine caused by a hydroxide ion, resulting in the breaking of this bond and in the formation of dehydroalanine, as it is represented on the fo llowing reaction scheme. Ni l UN O - O Ni l UN O

H— C— CH₂- S-S -CH^-C-H C— CH ₂ + [S] + '^"S -CH--C-H

O " N H O ^: N H O ^{; '} N H O N H cysti ne dehydroalani ne

^■ The second reaction is a reaction of the dehydroalanine with a thio l group . Indeed, the double bond of the dehydroalanine formed is a reactive double bond. It can react with the thio l group of the cysteine residue which has been freed so as to form a new bond known as a lanthionine bridge or bond or residue . This second reaction is illustrated by the fo llowing reaction scheme.

O NH HN O NH HN O

C CH₂ S CH ₂ C H H C CH, S CH, C H

O NH 0 NH O NH O NH de hydroalanine lanthioni ne

Compared with the first technique described above that uses a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step since the formation o f the lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It is therefore carried out in a single step and makes it possible without distinction to either wave the hair, or to shape or smooth or straighten the hair. This technique is mainly used for shaping naturally curly hair.

However, the hydroxides employed during this process have the major drawback o f being caustic. This causticity affects the scalp by causing irritations which are sometimes severe, and can also affect the condition o f the hair by making it, on the one hand, rough to the touch and, on the other hand, much more brittle. The use of hydroxides can also in certain cases cause bleaching o f the natural co lour of the hair.

Moreover, an oily cosmetic composition for maintaining the hair comprising a hydrocarbon-based compound which is solid at ambient temperature and/or a wax which is solid at ambient temperature, a volatile oil and a gelling oil is known from document JP 2008-303 1 78.

This document does not describe a process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres invo lving the implementation o f a step o f heating the fibres by means o f an iron.

There is therefore a real need to implement a process for permanently reshaping and in particular straightening keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which does not have all the drawbacks described above, i.e. which not only makes it possible to straighten keratin fibres in a long-lasting manner while at the same time giving them satisfactorily cosmetic properties, but which also has improved implementation and use qualities.

The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible to achieve the desired properties by implementing a process for permanently reshaping and in particular straightening or smoothing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners, in particular in particle form, and a step up heating said keratin fibres at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C by means o f an iron, said step occurring after the application o f said cosmetic composition. The permanent reshaping process according to the invention has improved use qualities, thereby facilitating its imp lementation and making it possible to satisfactorily straighten the fibres while at the same time giving them good cosmetic properties.

In particular, the cosmetic compositions do not run at the time they are applied to the keratin fibres nor when the iron is being passed over said fibres . The crackling of the compositions while the iron is being passed over the fibres is therefore minimized.

Moreover, the reshaping process according to the invention makes it possible to render the hair straight both to the touch and visually, in a long-lasting manner, while at the same time giving it good cosmetic properties .

The reshaping process according to the invention also confers on the hair reshaping and in particular straightening which withstands shampooing operations, and also satisfactory cosmetic properties .

More particularly, in the case of straightening, it is observed that initially curly hair becomes straight, even totally straight, after having been treated with the process according to the invention, and that it remains straight even after the application o f several shampooing operations.

Likewise, it is observed that initially very frizzy hair lo ses its frizziness after having been treated with the process according to the invention.

It is also noted that the treatment process according to the invention makes it possible to confer more long-lasting straightening than a conventional care process, it being possible, for example, for the straightening to be still observed after about twenty or so shampooing operations.

Moreover, compared with the conventional permanent reshaping processes, the treatment process according to the invention does not require the use of a reducing composition or of a composition based on alkaline active agents, and can be carried out on keratin fibres which may be damaged, without degrading the cosmetic properties thereof or the colours thereof.

The treatment process according to the invention also makes it possible to give the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of so ftness, feel and disentangling.

In the case o f straightening, the treatment process according to the invention also results in a reduction in the vo lume and apparent mass of the hair.

A subject of the invention is therefore in particular a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners in the form o f particles having a primary number- average size ranging from 0. 1 to 500 μιη, the composition comprising no co louring agent.

The term " colouring agents" is understood to mean, according to the present invention, agents for colouring keratin fibres, such as direct dyes, pigments or oxidation dye precursors (bases and couplers) . If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.001 %> by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This is because, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, i. e . no co louring effect would be observed on the keratin fibres.

It should be remembered that oxidation dye precursors, oxidation bases and couplers are co lourless or only slightly co loured compounds which, by a condensation reaction in the presence o f an oxidizing agent, give a coloured entity. With regard to direct dyes, these compounds are co loured and exhibit a degree of affinity for keratin fibres.

In other words, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a non-co louring composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention spreads easily on the keratin fibres, thereby facilitating it application and making it possible to satisfactorily p laster down the fibres .

Moreover, the cosmetic composition has a satisfactory texture and can be rinsed o ff easily.

A subj ect of the invention is also a process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising :

(a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a cosmetic composition containing one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content o f greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners, and

(b) a step of heating the keratin fibres at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C by means o f an iron after application o f said cosmetic composition.

The permanent reshaping is preferably straightening of the hair.

Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is inso luble in water at ordinary ambient temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a so lubility in water of less than 5 %, preferably than 1 % and even more preferentially than 0. 1 %. The non-silicone fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms . In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum j elly or decamet hy Icy clop entasiloxane .

The non-silicone fatty substance(s) of the invention is (are), moreover, nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.

The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance of which the structure does not comprise any silicon atoms .

The fatty substance(s) may be liquid or non-liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure . The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity o f less than or equal to 2 Pa. s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa. s and even better still less than or equal to 0. 1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s¹ .

The liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) in particular chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcoho ls, esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcoho l, non-salified fatty acids, alkoxysilanes having a fatty chain, and mixtures thereo f.

The term "liquid hydrocarbon" means a hydrocarbon composed so lely o f carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e . 1 .013 x 10⁵ Pa) .

More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C₆ - C i 6 alkanes . Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, o f mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereo f, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum j elly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product so ld under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.

Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) is (are) chosen from liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum j elly, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

In one preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) is (are) chosen from liquid petroleum j elly, isoparaffins, isododecane, and a mixture of undecane and of tridecane.

The term "liquid fatty alcoho l" means a nonglycero lated and nonoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e . 1 .013 x 10⁵ Pa) .

Preferably, the liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

The saturated liquid fatty alcoho ls are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcoho l and 2- hexyldecanol.

Octyldodecano l is mo st particularly preferred. The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.

These unsaturated fatty alcoho ls may be linear or branched.

They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention are chosen from o leyl alcoho l, lino leyl alcoho l, lino lenyl alcoho l and undecylenyl alcohol.

Oleyl alcoho l is mo st particularly preferred.

The term "liquid fatty esters" means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcoho l that is liquid at standard temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i. e . 1 .01 3 10⁵ Pa) .

The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcoho ls or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms o f the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for the esters of monoalcoho ls, at least one of from among the alcoho l and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcoho ls, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C i - C₂₂ alcoho ls and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4 - C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydro xy or pentahydroxy nonsugar alcoho ls may also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricino leate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trio leyl citrate; propylene glycol dio ctanoate; neopentyl glyco l diheptanoate; diethylene glyco l diisononanoate; and polyethylene glyco l distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 - C30 and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .

Examples o f suitable sugars that may be mentioned include saccharose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, manno se, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 - C30 and preferably C 1 2 - C22 fatty acids . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be chosen, for example, from o leates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, lino leates, lino lenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereo f, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters .

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular of mono- or dio leates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, lino leates, lino lenates or oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amercho l, which is a methylglucose dio leate .

Among the sugar esters, it is also possible to use pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and caprylic and capric acid hexaesters as a mixture with dipentaerythrito l.

Finally, natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol may also be used.

Among these, mention may be made o f plant oils. As oils o f plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composition o f the invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include :

- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara groundnut oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, seabuckthorn pulp oil, bilberry oil, poppy oil, orange seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyo l^® 8 10, 8 12 and 8 1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.

Preferably, use will be made, as liquid esters according to the invention, o f triglycerides of plant origin, in particular oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereo f, and esters of C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and o f C 1 - C22 alcoho ls, in particular 1 ,3 -propanedio l dicaprylate .

In order to be considered as a fatty substance, the fatty acid must not be in generally so luble soap form, i.e. it must not be salified with a base.

The liquid fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula

RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R is a C7 - C29 alkyl or C7 - C 29 alkenyl group and better still a C 12-C24 alkyl or C 12-C24 alkenyl group . R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.

The liquid fatty acid may in particular be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.

The alkoxysilanes involved are those which have a fatty chain preferentially comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.

Even more preferentially, the alkoxysilanes can be chosen from hexadecyltriethoxysilane and octadecyltriethoxysilane.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from linear or branched C₆-Ci6 alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters, in particular oils of plant origin and esters of C4-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols.

The fatty substance(s) used in the composition according to the invention may also be fatty substances which are non-liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013x10^s Pa).

The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s¹.

More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.

The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are chosen more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol). More particularly, cetylstearyl alcohol will be used. As regards the non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcoho ls, mention may be made in particular o f so lid esters derived from C9 - C26 fatty acids and from C9 - C26 fatty alcoho ls.

Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

The non-silicone wax(es) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as o live tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax so ld by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.

Solid amides that may be mentioned include ceramides . The ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known per se and are natural or synthetic mo lecules that may correspond to general formula (I) below :

in which:

- Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, derived from C 1 4 - C 30 fatty acids, this radical possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;

- R₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

- R₃ denotes a Ci5-C₂₆ hydrocarbon-based radical which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this radical to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl radicals; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R₃ may also denote a Ci5-C₂₆ a-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C16-C30 a- hydroxy acid.

The ceramides which are preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol., Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.

The ceramide(s) that is (are) more particularly preferred according to the invention is (are) the compound(s) for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from Ci₆-C₂₂ fatty acids; R₂ denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear Ci5 radical.

Such compounds are, for example:

- N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine,

- N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine,

- N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,

- N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,

- N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine,

or mixtures of these compounds. Even more preferentially, use is made o f ceramides for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids; R₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R₃ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH₂) i ₂-CH₃ group .

Other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as those so ld by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of po lyethylene or of polyo lefin in general.

The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

Preferentially, the fatty substance(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C₆ - C i 6 alkanes and linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid parafins, and derivatives thereo f, petroleum j elly, liquid petroleum j elly; fatty acid esters, in particular oils o f plant origin and esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C i -C₂₂ alcoho ls, these esters being more preferentially chosen from triglycerides of plant origin and liquid fatty alcoho ls, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from liquid petroleum j elly, isoparaffins, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, 1 ,3 -propanedio l dicaprylate, and mixtures thereo f.

Even more preferentially, the non-silione fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from avocado oil, liquid petroleum j elly, and mixtures thereo f. The non-silicone fatty substance(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be present in a content ranging from 40% to 1 00% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 50% to 100% by weight and even more preferentially in a content ranging from 75 % to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more inorganic thickeners in the form of particles which have a primary number-average size ranging from 0. 1 to 500 μπι.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" means an agent which, when introduced at 1 % by weight into an aqueous so lution or an aqueous-alcoho lic so lution containing 30%> ethano l, and at pH 7 , or into an oil chosen from liquid petroleum j elly, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity o f at least 100 cps and preferably of at least 500 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s^{" 1} . This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like) .

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "thickener in the form of particles" means a thickener which is inso luble in the composition at a temperature of 25 ° C and present in said composition in so lid or pasty form, preferably solid form.

The thickener(s) used in the present invention may be chosen from inorganic particles essentially constituted of inorganic oxides and/or hydroxides . For the purposes of the present invention the expression "primary number-average size o f particles" means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposed points of an individual particle. When it is a question o f a population o f particles o f various sizes, the size indicated corresponds to the number-average size of the population.

Preferably, the primary number-average size o f the inorganic particles used in the present invention ranges from 0. 1 to 200 μιη, and even more preferentially ranges from 1 to 100 μιη.

The size of the inorganic particles can be determined by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface area by the BET method or using a laser particle sizer.

The inorganic particles may be in various shapes, for example a spherical, needle, flake or platelet shape.

In one variant of the invention, the thickener(s) is (are) platelet-shaped particles.

The thickener(s) in the particle form that are used in the cosmetic composition can preferably be chosen from clays and silicas .

Clays are products that are already well known per se, and that are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralo gy o f Clays] , S . Caillere, S . Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.

Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereo f.

Examples o f such products that may be mentioned include clays o f the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family o f vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites . The clays can be o f natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.

The clay can be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and their mixtures. Preferably, the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.

The clays may be chosen from organophilic clays.

The organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines.

Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-

1 8 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3 , Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those so ld under the names Bentone 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay and quaternium- 1 8/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.

The organophilic clay is in particular chosen from modified hectorites such as hectorite mo dified with C _{1 0}-C _{1 2} fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.

The silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made o f the silicas provided under the names Sillitin N85 , Sillitin N87, Sillitin N82, Sillitin V85 and Sillitin V88 by the company Ho ffmann Mineral.

They may be fumed silicas.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a vo latile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas having a large number o f silano l groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number o f silano l groups. It is possible in particular to replace silano l groups with hydrophobic groups : a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be :

(a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as " Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) ;

(b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence o f polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) .

Functionalized silicas that may be mentioned include the products provided under the names Aktisil Mam, Aktisil Mam-r and Aktisil WW by the company Ho ffmann Mineral.

Preferably, the thickener(s) is (are) chosen from organophilic clays, untreated natural clays, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the thickeners are chosen from hectorites modified with C _{1 0}-C _{1 2} fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride, and untreated natural clays .

Even more preferentially, the thickeners are chosen from hectorites mo dified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis, and hectorite modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 27V by the company Elementis.

The particulate thickener(s) may be present in the cosmetic composition or the process according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, better still in a content ranging from 1 % to 15 % by weight and even better still in a content ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of at least 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of plant origin, liquid fatty alcoho ls and also mixtures thereof, and one or more inorganic thickeners in the form o f particles as previously defined, chosen from organophilic clays, silicas, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of fatty substances comprising one or more triglycerides of plant origin and one or more liquid fatty alcoho ls, and one or more inorganic thickeners in the form o f particles as defined previously, chosen from organophilic clays, in particular from hectorites modified with C 10 - C 12 fatty acid ammonium chloride, the mixture of fatty substances being in a content of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water. If the composition comprises water, its content generally ranges from 0.5 %> to 60%> by weight, preferably from 0.5 %> to 1 0% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is anhydrous.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " anhydrous" means that the cosmetic composition comprises a water content of less than 5 % by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1 % by weight relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water in question is more particularly bound water, such as water of crystallization in salts, or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may in particular be in the form o f a gel, cream, paste, foam, spray, lotion, aerosol or thickened liquid.

In particular, when it contains water, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form o f an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsion, of a microemulsion or of a nanoemulsion.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise one or more surfactants .

The surfactants optionally present in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention may be anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric or cationic. The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups . These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the C0₂H, C0₂ ^", S O₃ H, S O₃ ^", O S O₃H, O S O₃ ^", O₂PO₂H, O₂PO₂H^" and O₂PO₂ ^{2 "} groups.

The anionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the compositions of the invention is (are) chosen in particular from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-o lefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts o f alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts o f D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, and salts o f alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the non-salified forms of all o f these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all of these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group .

Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units .

The salts o f C6 - C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C6 - C24 alkyl po lyglycoside- citrates, C6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6 - C24 alkyl poly glycoside-sulfo succinates .

When the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) in salt form, it (they) is (are) not in the form o f zinc salts, and it (they) may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular amino alcoho l salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may in particular be mentioned include monoethano lamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3 -propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Use is preferably made of (C₆ - C24)alkyl sulfates, (C₆ - C24)alkyl ether sulfates, which are optionally oxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form o f alkali metal salts or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts. More preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from (C i o- C2 o)alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mo l o f ethylene oxide.

When they are present, the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight and even better still from 4% to 15 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples o f non-ionic surfactants that may be used in the cosmetic composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp . 1 16- 178. They are in particular chosen from alcohols, a-dio ls and (C i_ 2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, the number o f ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups po ssibly ranging in particular from 2 to 50 , and the number of glycerol groups possib ly ranging in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made o f copo lymers of ethylene oxide and o f propylene oxide, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters , optionally oxyalkylenated alkylpolyglycosides , alkylgluco side esters , derivatives o f N-alkylglucamine and of N-acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides , oxyethylenated plant oils, and amine oxides .

Unless otherwise mentioned, the term "fatty" compound (for example a fatty acid) denotes for these surfactants a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even better still from 1 0 to 22 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted with one or more hydro xyl groups , and preferably unsubstituted.

When they are present, the amount o f the non-ionic surfactant(s) varies preferably from 0.0 1 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 1 0% by weight relative to the total weight o f the composition.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives , in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as , for example , a carboxylate , sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group . Mention may be made in particular o f (C8 - C2o)alkylbetaines , sulfobetaines, (C8 - C2o)alkylamido(C3 - Cs)alkylbetaines or (C8 - C2o)alkylamido(C6-Cs) alkyl sulfobetaines . Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (II) and (III) below:

RaCONHCH₂CH₂ N⁺(Rb)(Rc)(CH₂COO^~) (II) in which:

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and

Ra'-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(B') (III) in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX^*,

B' represents (CH₂)zY', with z = 1 or 2,

X^* represents the group -CH₂-COOH, CH₂-COOZ', -CH₂CH₂-

COOH or -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y^* represents -COOH, -COOZ' or the group -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-S0₃Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,

Ra' represents a Cio-C₃o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, in particular a C₁₇ group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C₁₇ group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993 , under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Mention may be made, by way o f example, of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Mirano l^® C2M Concentrate.

Among the abovementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (C8 -C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C8 -C20 alkyl)amido(C2-Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.

When they are present, the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is preferably in the range from 0.01 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more functions that are cationizable in the composition according to the invention.

The cationic surfactant(s) is (are) preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereo f. The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain. Among the fatty amines that can be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.

Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, of, for example:

- those corresponding to general formula (IV) below:

in which the groups Rs to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C₂-C₆) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci- C₄)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfonates or (Ci-C₄)alkylaryl sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III), those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salt, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salt, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of these compounds;

- quaternary ammonium salts o f imidazo line, such as, for example, those of formula (V) below:

(V) in which Ri ₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri ₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C i - C₄ alkyl group, R1 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ - C4 alkyl group, X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkylaryl sulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms . Preferably, Ri ₂ and Ri ₃ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, R14 denotes a methyl group , and R1 5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is so ld, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo; - diquaternary or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula (VI):

Rl6 -N-(CH₂)₃-N-R₂₁ 2X-

^R1S ^R20

(VI)

in which Ri₆ denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH₂)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri , R₂o and R₂i, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X^" is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT provided by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (VII) below:

in which:

R₂₂ is chosen from Ci-C₆ alkyl groups and Ci-C₆ hydroxyalkyl dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R₂3 is chosen from: O

R

- the group 26

- the groups R27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 - C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

O

, R_9R c

- the group ^o

- the groups R29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C i -C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups,

- a hydrogen atom,

R24 , R26 and R28 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7 - C2 1 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

ri and t_{l s} which may be identical or different, are 0 or 1 and r2+ri =2r and t₁ +t₂=2t,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to

10;

X^" is a simp le or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15 , that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group , and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group . Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R₂3 is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂₇ , it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based group R₂g , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms .

Advantageously, R₂₄ , R₂₆ and R₂ s , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C _{1 1} -C_{2 1} hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C_{2 1} alkyl and alkenyl groups .

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 , and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X^" is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate . However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anion X^" is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts o f formula (VII) in which:

R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

x and y are equal to 1 ;

z is equal to 0 or 1 ;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R₂3 is chosen from: O

R

- the group 26

- methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups,

- a hydrogen atom;

R25 is chosen from:

O - the group ^²⁸ ^

- a hydrogen atom;

R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁₃-C₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Mention may, for example, be made of the compounds of formula (VI), such as the salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium,

monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium,

triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, of triisopropanolamine, of alkyldiethanolamine or of alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with Cio-C₃o fatty acids or with mixtures of Cio-C₃o fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters . This esterification is fo llowed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably dimethyl or diethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glyco l chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are so ld, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco .

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture o f quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority o f diester salts .

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 1 80.

Use may be made o f behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride provided by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 13 1 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, which can be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts.

When they are present, the amount of the cationic surfactant(s) is preferably in the range of from 0.01 % to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) is (are) chosen according to the fatty substance(s) present in the cosmetic composition, in particular the selected surfactant has a fatty chain with a length similar to that predominantly present in the fatty substance used.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants .

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is anhydrous and comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more inorganic thickeners in the form o f particles as previously defined, and one or more surfactants .

The presence of one or more surfactants in a cosmetic composition according to the present invention, which is anhydrous, makes it possible to improve the rinsing-off o f the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is anhydrous and comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of at least 40% by weight, chosen from triglycerides of plant origin, one or more inorganic thickeners in the form o f particles as previously defined, chosen from organophilic clays and hydrophilic fumed silicas, and one or more non-ionic surfactants, in particular polyglycerolated or polyoxyethylenated surfactants .

The compositions o f the invention may comprise one or more linear, branched or cyclic, volatile or non-vo latile silicones.

These silicones, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes, may or may not be organomodified. The term "organomodified" means silicones bearing functions such as amine, amide, hydroxyl, aryl, carboxyl, phosphate, alkoxy or polyoxyalkylenated functions .

Preferably, the silicones are polydimethylsiloxanes which are optionally aminated and/or polyoxyethylenated. The cosmetic composition may contain one or more organic so lvents other than the fatty substances previously described and chosen from C 1 - C 4 alcoho ls, for instance ethano l, isopropano l, tert- butano l or n-butano l; propylene carbonate, polyo ls such as propylene glyco l, and polyo l ethers; acetone, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic solvents are water-soluble, i. e. they have a so lubility in water of greater than 10% by weight at 25 °C .

When these organic solvents are present, their proportion ranges in particular from 1 % to 59.99% by weight, preferably between 5 % and 50% by weight and even more preferentially between 8% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment composition.

The composition may also contain one or more additives chosen from the active ingredients and cosmetic adjuvants commonly used in the field o f haircare . These additives are chosen, for example, from conditioning agents such as cationic po lymers, chitosans and derivatives thereo f, vitamins, amino acids, oligopeptides, peptides, hydro lyzed or non-hydro lyzed, modified or unmodified proteins, enzymes, organic acids other than the non-salified fatty acids, UV screening agents, antioxidants and free-radical scavengers, chelating agents, antidandruff agents, seborrhoea-regulating agents, calmatives, acids, bases, plasticizers, fragrances and preservatives.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise one or more colouring agents chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dye precursors, pigments, and mixtures thereof, in a content of less than 0.001 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition may be packaged in aerosol form.

The propellant may be any liquefiable gas customarily used in aerosol devices. Dimethyl ether, C₃ -C₅ alkanes, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as 1 , 1 -difluoroethane, and mixtures thereo f, for instance mixtures of dimethyl ether and o f C₃ -C₅ alkanes, and mixtures of 1 , 1 -difluoroethane and of dimethyl ether and/or of C₃ - C₅ alkanes, are in particular chosen. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air, or mixtures thereo f, may also be used as propellant.

Preferably, the propellant gas used is dimethyl ether or C₃ -C₅ alkanes, and in particular propane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid phase/propellant weight ratio of the pressurized hair compositions o f the present invention is preferably between 50 and 0.05 , and in particular between 50 and 1 .

The aeroso l device used to package the compositions of the invention may be made up o f two compartments, formed from an outer aerosol can comprising an inner bag hermetically sealed to a valve. The composition is introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to make the product come out in the form of a spray through a nozzle orifice . Such a device is sold, for example, under the name EP Spray by the company EP Spray System SA. Said compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar and even better still between 9 and 1 1 bar.

In the case of aerosol foams, the compositions introduced into the aerosol device may, for example, be in the form o f a lotion, or dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aeroso l device, form fo ams to be applied to keratin substances . These foams must be sufficiently stable so as not to rapidly liquefy and must also rapidly disappear, either spontaneously or during the massaging which is used to cause the composition to penetrate into keratin substances and/or to distribute the composition over keratin substances and more particularly the head of hair and/or the hair.

In the case o f aeroso l foams, the composition according to the invention may also contain at least one cationic, non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant.

The present invention also relates to a process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising :

(a) a step of applying to the keratin fibres a cosmetic composition comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners, in particular in particle form, and

The cosmetic composition can be applied to dry or wet hair, preferentially to wet hair, with or without a leave-on time.

After application o f the cosmetic composition according to the invention and before the increase in temperature of the keratin fibres by means o f an iron, said composition can be left on for a period ranging from 5 to 60 minutes, preferably ranging from 5 to 15 minutes. The leave-on time can be performed under heat, and in particular under an occlusive system.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the keratin fibres preferably in an amount of from 0. 1 to 1 0 grams and better still from 0.2 to 5 grams o f composition per gram o f keratin fibres.

After application o f the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the keratin fibres can be wrung out in order to remove the excess composition.

As explained previously, the process according to the invention comprises a step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250° C which is carried out by means of an iron, after application o f the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The heating step is necessary to optimize the effects of the process.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term " iron" means a device for heating keratin fibres which brings said fibres and the heating device into contact.

The end of the iron which comes into contact with the keratin fibres generally has two flat surfaces . These two surfaces may be made of metal. In particular, these two surfaces may be smooth or crimped.

The heating step can be performed by means o f a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron or a steam iron. Preferably, the heating step is performed by means o f a straightening iron.

By way o f example o f irons which can be used in the straightening process according to the invention, mention may be made of any type o f flat iron, and in particular, in a non-limiting manner, those described in patents US 5 957 140 and US 5 046 5 16.

The iron can be applied by successive separate strokes lasting a few seconds or by gradual movement or sliding along the lo cks.

Preferably, the iron is applied in the process according to the invention by a continuous movement from the root to the tip, in one or more passes, in particular in two passes each lasting from 5 seconds to 1 minute. The use o f the iron during the process according to the invention provides the keratin fibres with a dry heat and not with a wet heat, which makes possible reshaping and in particular permanent straightening o f the keratin fibres.

Preferably, the step of heating the hair is carried out at a temperature ranging from 100 to 250°C , preferably from 190 to 220°C, better still from 200 to 215 °C, and in particular at a temperature o f 210° C, for a period of time which can range from 5 seconds to one hour, and preferentially from 5 seconds to one minute.

The straightening process according to the invention can also comprise an additional step o f pre-drying after the application of the cosmetic composition and before the step of heating the keratin fibres carried out at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C so as to prevent significant releases of vapours which might burn the hands o f the hairdresser and the scalp of the person. The pre-drying step can be carried out by means of a hand-held hairdryer or of a hood dryer or else by drying in the open air.

After the passage of the iron, the keratin fibres can be optionally rinsed or washed with a shampoo . The keratin fibres are then optionally dried by means of a hand-held hairdryer or of a hood dryer.

Preferably, the compositions used in the process of the invention comprise one or more inorganic thickeners in the form o f particles having a primary number-average size ranging from 0. 1 to 500 μιη, in particular from 0. 1 to 200 μιη, and more particularly from 1 to 1 00 μπι.

Preferably, the compositions used in the process of the invention comprise one or more inorganic thickeners chosen from clays and silicas. Preferably, the cosmetic composition used in the process comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The straightening process according to the invention advantageously does not comprise the application of a reducing composition, neither before, nor during, nor after the application of the cosmetic composition o f the invention.

In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably free o f reducing agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "composition free of reducing agents" means a composition containing less than 1 % by weight of reducing agents relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a composition which does not contain reducing agents .

According to one embodiment, the permanent reshaping and in particular straightening process according to the invention comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition containing one or more non- silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners in particle form, a step o f carrying out one or more cosmetic treatments of the keratin fibres, in particular a step of applying a shampoo to the fibres, and a step of heating the keratin fibres by means o f an iron after application of said cosmetic composition according to the invention, until the desired shape or shape intensity is obtained.

When relaxing or defrizzing the hair, the cosmetic composition is applied to the hair, preferably wet hair, and the hair is then subj ected to mechanical reshaping for fixing it in its new shape, by means of a hair straightening operation, with a wide-toothed comb, with the back o f a comb, by hand or with a brush.

The step of heating the hair is then carried out at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C by means o f an iron, preferably a flat iron, as previously indicated.

Preferably, the treatment process is carried out on frizzy or curly hair.

The present invention also relates to a kit comprising a cosmetic composition containing one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight and one or more inorganic thickeners, in particular in the form o f particles preferably chosen from clays or silicas, and an iron that can provide a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C .

The fo llowing examples are given as illustrations o f the present invention.

EXAMPLE

I . Compositions tested a. Compositions based on fumed silica

The compositions according to the invention ( 1 ) to (6) are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

The silica is so ld under the name Sillitin N85 by the company Ho ffmann Mineral. b . Compositions based on clays

The compositions according to the invention (7) to ( 16) are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition. Compositions 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Avocado oil

88 92 96 - - - 44

Liquid petroleum

- - - 88 92 96 44 j elly

Hectorite modified

with stearylbenzyl-

9 6 3 - - - - dimethylammonium,

at 55 μιη ^

Hectorite modified

with

distearyldimethyl- - - - 9 6 3 9 ammonium, at 0.8

μηι ^{(3 )}

Propylene carbonate 3 2 1 3 2 1 3

^ The hectorite moc ified with stearylbenzyld

is so ld under the name Bentone 27V by the company Elementis

^ The hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium is so ld under the name B entone 38 VCG by the company Elementis

c . Compositions based on clays containing a surfactant

The composition ( 1 7) according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts o f which are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight o f the compo sition. Compositions 17

Avocado oil

77

Hectorite modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium,

6 at 55 μιη ^

Propylene carbonate

2

Polyglycerolated (2 mol) oleyl alcohol

15 ' The hectorite modified with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium is so ld under the name Bentone 27V by the company Elementis d. Compositions based on clays containing a mixture of fatty substances

The composition ( 1 8) according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compositions 18

Avocado oil

75.5

Hectorite modified with

9

distearyldimethylammonium, at 0.8 μπι '⁴'

Propylene carbonate

3

Water

1

Octyldodecano l

11.5 ' The hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium is so ld under the name Bentone 38 VCG by the company Elementis

II . Application to locks

1 . Application protocol Locks o f natural curly hair weighing 2.7 grams are washed beforehand with a shampoo .

2.7 grams of each of compositions ( 1 ) to ( 1 8) according to the invention and a reference composition (A) comprising 1 00% of water are applied to each of the locks. After a leave-on time of 10 minutes, the lo cks are then wrung out in order to remove the excess product, and are then pre-dried using a hand-held hairdryer at a temperature of

60°C .

A straightening iron is then applied a temperature of 210°C with two passes being performed. The locks are washed with a shampoo and are then dried. A panel of experts compares the effects provided by compositions (1) to (18) according to the invention and the reference composition (A).

2. Results

It is noted that the locks treated with compositions ( 1 ) to ( 16) went from curly to straight after natural drying. After ten shampooing operations, the locks treated with compositions ( 1 ) to ( 16) are still straight. The lock treated with the reference composition (A) remains curly.

III . Application to heads

The curliness of the hair is graded on a scale o f 1 to 1 0, 1 being completely straight hair and 10 very curly hair.

Curly hair model - comparison composition ( 15)/reference composition (A) a. Application protocol

Composition ( 15) according to the invention and the reference composition (A) are applied to one half of the head of a mo del with curly hair, and left on for 10 minutes . After the leave-on time, the hair is then wrung out in order to remove the excess product, and then pre- dried using a hand-held hairdryer at a temperature of 60°C .

A straightening iron is then applied a temperature of 210°C with two passes being performed. The head of hair o f the mo del is then washed with a shampoo and then dried.

The application protocol is carried out on five models who exhibit on average a natural curliness of 4, i.e. curly hair.

A panel o f experts compares the effects provided on the head of hair by compositions ( 15) and (A) . b. Results

After natural drying, it is noted that, on the side on which composition ( 15) according to the invention was applied, the degree of curliness decreased on average to a degree of curliness of 2.4. The head o f hair went from curly to slightly wavy.

The head o f hair o f the models was also evaluated over time. On three models, after a period of 15 days and an average of 5 shampooing operations, it is noted that the head of hair o f the models, on the side on which composition ( 15) according to the invention was applied, retained the same degree of curliness as just after the application.

Claims

1 . Process for permanently reshaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising :

a) a step of app lying to the keratin fibres a cosmetic composition containing one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition and one or more inorganic thickeners, and b) a step of heating the keratin fibres at a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C by means of an iron after application of said cosmetic composition.

2. Process according to claim 1 , characterized in that the temperature ranges from 100 to 250°C, preferably from 190 to 220°C and better still from 200 to 215 °C .

3. Process according to either one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it also comprises a step of pre-drying the keratin fibres before the heating step .

4. Process according to any one o f claims 1 to 3 , characterized in that it is a hair straightening process .

5. Cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and one or more inorganic thickeners in the form of particles having a primary number-average size ranging from 0. 1 to 500 μιη, the composition comprising no colouring agent.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5 , characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substances are liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the liquid non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcoho ls, esters o f fatty acid and/or of fatty alcoho l, fatty acids, alkoxysilanes having a fatty chain, and mixtures thereo f.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the liquid non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C₆ - C i 6 alkanes and linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid parafins, and derivatives thereo f, petroleum j elly, liquid petroleum j elly, fatty alcoho ls, fatty acid esters, in particular oils o f plant origin and esters of C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcoho ls.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5 , characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substances are non-liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcoho ls, fatty acid and/or fatty alcoho l esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably so lid.

1 1 . Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the non-liquid fatty alcoho ls are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcoho l, stearyl alcoho l, and a mixture thereo f.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to 1 1 , characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from liquid petroleum j elly, isoparaffins, isododecane, undecane, tridecane, avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, 1 ,3 -propanedio l dicaprylate, and mixtures thereo f.

13. Cosmetic composition according to any one o f claims 5 to 12, characterized in that the inorganic thickeners in particle form have an average size ranging from 0. 1 to 200 μιη, and even more preferentially ranging from 1 to 100 μιη.

14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to

13 , characterized in that the thickeners are chosen from clays, which are preferably organophilic, and silicas, which are preferably untreated and natural.

15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 5 to

14, characterized in that the organophilic clays are chosen from modified hectorites with distearyldimethylammonium chloride and from modified hectorites with stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.

16. Cosmetic composition according to any one o f claims 5 or

15 , characterized in that it also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably non-ionic surfactants .

17. Cosmetic composition according to any one o f claims 5 or

16, characterized in that it is anhydrous.

1 8. Kit comprising a cosmetic composition containing one or more non-silicone fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 40% by weight and one or more inorganic thickeners, and an iron that can provide a temperature ranging from 60 to 250°C .