WO2014029711A2

WO2014029711A2 - Mild foaming make-up remover composition

Info

Publication number: WO2014029711A2
Application number: PCT/EP2013/067191
Authority: WO
Inventors: Shota Morimoto; KURITA (nee USUI), Tomoko; Yukihiro Murata
Original assignee: Unilever Plc; Unilever N.V.; Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever
Priority date: 2012-08-23
Filing date: 2013-08-16
Publication date: 2014-02-27
Also published as: TW201408331A; JP2015526451A; EA027395B1; TWI586372B; EA201590177A1; BR112015003693A2; MX352365B; CN104661636A; JP6333253B2; GB201215054D0; CN104661636B; WO2014029711A3; MX2015002280A

Abstract

A make-up remover composition suitable for dispensing from a mechanical pump foamer is provided for abundant and long-lasting foam properties on wet skin as well as on dry waxy makeup. The foam remains stable at –5 C. The inventive make-up remover composition also is expected to provide an enhanced moisturizing feeling to the skin after rinsing compared to comparative products. The composition includes a specific minimum ratio of C10-C14 acyl argininate to C10-C14 acyl glycinate in an aqueous polyol surfactant matrix.

Description

MILD FOAMING MAKE-UP REMOVER COMPOSITION

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1 . Field of the Invention

The invention concerns a make-up removing cosmetic composition that is

advantageously dispensed by a non-aerosol pump foamer dispenser as a long-lasting foam.

2. Background of the Art

An important segment of the cosmetics market are products which are utilized for removing make-up. Removal of pigments of eye shadow, mascara, blush, lipstick and face powder is a daily problem for many women. The problem has been addressed through formulations which may include materials operating by solvent action or by emulsification, for example, O/W emulsion cream, Gel, Oil, or Sheet type product formats are available. Recently, makeup remover compositions by a pump foamer dispenser have been introduced to the market to enable persons to conveniently use in the shower or bath i.e. with wet hands, and to dispense the product as foam for rapid action on the skin without dripping.

WO2008052956 published on May 8, 2008 to Kobayashi et al. describes a cleansing composition including a blend of non-saccharide polyhydric alcohol fatty acid triester(s) and saccharide alcohol fatty acid tetraester(s)in a specific ratio and blended with oil that removes makeup under moist conditions such as with wet hands without the problem of phase separation and compromised makeup removal efficiency.

Surprisingly a formulation including a blend of an acyl glycinate(s) and acyl argininate(s) in a specific ratio range, blended with polyol(s) and water was found to produce considerable and long-lasting foam when dispensed on wet skin and to also cleanse and with the expectation to moisturize the skin compared to comparative makeup remover products. Furthermore the inventive product did not have the problem of phase separation and insufficient foaming volume at low temperature of -5 C seen for comparative and prior art products.

Preferably the inventive product is used with a countertop mechanical pump allowing foam to be dispensed directly onto the hands. Preferably the pump is situated in a stable position so that the hand or forearm can be used to depress the pump and dispense the product. This results in a more hygienic cleansing process. In addition, initial dilution with water is not required since the foam can be readily distributed on the skin prior to rinsing. The inventive product is preferably transparent. Transparency is herein defined as having a turbidity less than or equal to 105 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units).

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION In one aspect of the invention is an aqueous, preferably transparent, preferably foaming, liquid composition for cleansing the skin including but not limited to: a. C8 to C18 soap(s) in a total concentration range of about 0.1 to 10 % by wt.; b. C10 to C14 acyl glycinate(s) in a total concentration range of about 5 to 25 % by wt.;

c. C10 to C14 acyl arginine(s) in a total concentration range of about 0.01 to 0.1 % by wt.;

d. greater than about 30 % by wt. of water;

e. wherein the ratio of acyl arginine(s) to acyl glycinate(s) is less than about 0.008; and

f. polyol(s) in a concentration of about 20 to 40.0 % by wt.

In another preferred embodiment is a packaged product for cleansing the skin comprising the above composition contained in a mechanical pump foam dispenser wherein a foam is dispensed. In a further preferred embodiment is a method of cleansing and removing waxy makeup from the skin of a user including but not limited to the steps of: a. dispensing as a foam, an effective amount of the above composition for

removing oily makeup from wet skin;

b. applying the foam to the wet skin;

c. rubbing the foam on the wet skin for a time sufficient to disperse the oily

makeup residing on the skin; and

d. rinsing the foamed composition and dispersed oily makeup from the skin.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

All publications and patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety.

In one aspect of the invention is an aqueous, preferably transparent, preferably foaming, liquid composition for cleansing the skin including but not limited to: a. C8 to C18 soap(s) in a total concentration range of about 0.1 to 10 % by wt.; preferably 0.1 to 5.0 and more preferably 0.1 to 1 .0;

b. C10 to C14 acyl glycinate(s) in a total concentration range of about 5 to 25 % by wt.; preferably 5.0 to 15.0 and more preferably 10.0 to 15.0;

c. C10 to C14 acyl arginine(s) in a total concentration range of about 0.01 to 0.1 % by wt.; preferably 0.01 to 0.08 and more preferably 0.02 to 0.08;

d. greater than about 30 % by wt. of water; preferably greater than 40.0 and more preferably greater than 50.0;

e. wherein the ratio of acyl arginine(s) to acyl glycinate(s) is less than about 0.008 preferably less than 0.007 and more preferably less than 0.005; and f. polyol(s) in a concentration of about 20 to 40.0 % by wt. preferably about 20.0 to 35.0 and more preferably about 25.0 to 35.0.

In a preferred embodiment, the ratio of acyl arginine(s) to acyl glycinate(s) is more than 0.0004 and preferably more than 0.002. Advantageously the minimum ratio of acyl arginine(s) to acyl glycinate(s) is in the range of 0.002 to 0.0004 and preferably in the range of 0.002 to 0.005.

The composition is preferably an aqueous transparent foaming liquid composition for cleansing the skin.

Advantageously the inventive composition further includes C8 to C12 glucoside(s) in a total concentration of about 1 to 5 % by wt. preferably about 1.0 to 4.0 and more preferably about 1 .0 to 3.0. Preferably also included is C8 to C12 hydroxysultaine(s) in a total concentration of about 1 to 5 % by wt. preferably about 1.0 to 4.0 and more preferably about 1 .0 to 3.0. More preferably the viscosity at 25 C of the inventive composition is less than 40.0 mPas, preferably less than 35.0 mPas and more preferably less than 30.0 mPas. In another preferred embodiment is a packaged product for cleansing the skin comprising the above composition contained in a mechanical pump foam dispenser wherein a foam is dispensed.

In a further preferred embodiment is a method of cleansing and removing waxy makeup from the skin of a user including but not limited to the steps of: a. dispensing as a foam an effective amount of the above composition for

removing oily makeup from wet skin;

b. applying the foam to the wet skin;

c. rubbing the foam on the wet skin for a time sufficient to disperse the oily

makeup residing on the skin; and

d. rinsing the foamed composition and dispersed oily makeup from the skin.

Soaps

Normal C8 - C18 alkyl carboxylic acid soaps are used for the invention. Preferably carboxylic acid soap(s), such as lauric (C12), myristic (C14), palmitic (C16) or stearic (C18) soaps are used alone or in combination. Advantageously the soap(s) are used at levels as low as 0.1 % by wt. and at levels as high as 1 , 5 or 10 % by wt.

Synthetic anionic surfactants

One or more C10-C14 acyl glycinate(s) are used in the inventive composition.

Preferably it is used at levels as low as 5 or 10 % by wt. and at levels as high as 15, 20 or 25 % by wt. The inventive composition also contains one or more acyl arginates having the following formula wherein R can have values from 10 through 14 and preferably represents an unbranched alkyi chain of 1 1 (lauroyl arginate)

Other anionic detergent actives which may be used in the invention may be aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C₈-C₂2) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C₈- C₂₂) disulfonate, C₈-C₂2 alkene sulfonate, C₈-C₂2 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyi glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS); or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyi benzene sulfonate. The anionic may also be an alkyi sulfate (e.g., Ci₂-Ci₈ alkyi sulfate) or alkyi ether sulfate (including alkyi glyceryl ether sulfates). Among the alkyi ether sulfates are those having the formula:

RO(CH₂CH₂0)_nS0₃M wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of greater than 1 .0, preferably greater than 3; and M is a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Ammonium and sodium lauryl ether sulfates are preferred.

The anionic may also be alkyl sulfosuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C₆-C₂2 sulfosuccinates); alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulfoacetates, C₈- C₂₂ alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C₈-C₂2 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like.

Sulfosuccinates may be monoalkyl sulfosuccinates having the formula: R⁴0₂CCH₂CH(S0₃M)C0₂M; and amide-MEA sulfosuccinates of the formula;

R⁴CONHCH₂CH₂0₂CCH₂CH(S0₃M)C0₂M, wherein R⁴ ranges from C₈-C₂₂ alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation. Sarcosinates are generally indicated by the formula: R¹CON(CH₃)CH₂C0₂M, wherein R¹ ranges from C₈-C₂₀ alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

Taurates are generally identified by formula: R²CONR³CH₂CH₂S0₃M, wherein R² ranges from C₈-C₂o alkyl, R³ ranges from C1-C4 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.

Polyols

One or more polyols are present in compositions of this invention. These polyols may be monomeric or polymeric. Monomeric polyols may have from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 2 to 10 hydroxyls. Illustrative monomeric polyols include glycerin, propylene glycol; 1 ,4-butane diol; 1 ,3-butane diol; 1 ,2-butane diol; 1 -6-hexanediol, 1 ,2-hexane diol; 3-methyl-1 ,3-butane diol; 2-methyl-1 , 3-propane diol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof and the like. Particularly preferred are glycerin, propylene glycol, and 1 ,3-butane diol.

Polymeric polyols are illustrated by polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, trimethylene glycol, dipentaerythritol and combinations thereof and the like.

Nonionic and Amphoteric Surfactants

A variety of nonionic and amphoteric surfactants may be employed as optional further components of the present invention. The nonionic surfactants ordinarily are based upon a hydrophobe unit such as a fatty alcohol or a fatty acid having from about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms, an alkyl phenol having from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, sorbitan and mixtures thereof. These hydrophobes ordinarily will be condensed with a hydrophilic unit, particularly from 1 to about 50, preferably from about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or mixtures thereof. Illustrative materials are POE-20 sorbitan monolaurate; POE-20 cetyl ether; POE-7 glyceryl cocoate; POE-15 stearyl ether; POE-10 stearyl ether; POE-15 palmityl ether and combinations thereof and the like. Other useful nonionics are alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl polyglucoside available from the BASF Corporation and Kao Corp. Another class of nonionic emulsifiers are the long chain tertiary amine oxides. Examples include dimethyldodecylamine oxide, dimethylhexadecylamine oxide; di(2-hydroxy)tetradecylamine oxide, dimethyldecylamine oxide and combinations thereof and the like.

Amphoteric surfactants such as betaines and sultaines may also be employed.

Suitable examples include C8 - C12 hydroxy sultaines, e.g. lauryl hydroxy sultaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoamido sultaine, dodecyl dimethyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl betaine and combinations thereof and the like.

Amounts of the nonionic surfactants may range each from about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2 to about 5%, optimally from about 0.3 to about 7% by weight of the composition. Amounts of the amphoteric surfactants may range each from about 0.1 to about 10%, preferably from about 0.2 to about 5%, optimally from about 0.3 to about 7% by weight of the composition.

Miscellaneous components

Water is preferably present in an amount of greater than about 30 % by wt., preferably greater than 40.0 wt% and more preferably greater than 50.0 wt%. The amount of water is preferably less than 75 wt%. Water is preferably present in an amount of from 30 wt% to 75 wt%.

Preservatives will usually also be incorporated into the inventive formulations.

Representative materials include phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propyl paraben, ethylenediamine tetra acetate (EDTA) salts, benzyl alcohol, lodopropynyl butyl carbamate, DMDM Hydantoin, caprylyl glycol and combinations thereof and the like. Amounts of these materials may range anywhere from about 0.0001 to about 1 % by weight of the composition.

Optional minor components may include colorants, fragrances, promotional

ingredients, each in their effective amounts to accomplish their respective functions. Typical promotional ingredients include vitamins such as retynyl palmitate, tocopherol acetate and niacinamide. Other promotional ingredients include conjugated linoleic acid, ceramides, pentapeptides and combinations thereof. Compositions of the present invention preferably are free of any oil phase, especially free of water insoluble emollients. The term "free" means less than 0.05%, preferably less than 0.01 % emollient, and water insoluble means any emollient having a solubility in distilled water at 25 C of less than about 1 gm per 100 mL, more preferably less than about 0.1 gm per 100 mL. Absent water insoluble emollients, the compositions can be transparent and have improved foamability.

The viscosity of the inventive composition is preferably in the range of 1 to 50 mPas, preferably 1 to 40 mPas at 25 C as measured by a Brookfield Model LVDV-II+, Spindle No LV1 , using 60 rpm and 1 min measurement time.

Non-aerosol foaming dispenser

A preferred embodiment of the cleansing product according to this invention is a non- aerosol foaming dispenser containing the inventive composition. The inventive composition is dispensed as a foam and produces long-lasting and copious foam in contact with wet skin.

A suitable dispenser is mechanical and is generally characterized by a container for storing the composition (preferably a transparent container), a dispensing head defined by a housing containing a pump, and a dip tube for transferring the composition from the container into the dispensing head. Foam is created by requiring the composition to pass through a screen material which may be a porous substance such as a sintered material, a wire (plastic or metal) gauze screen or similar structures. Preferably two screens are used. Suitable mechanical dispensers are described in U.S. Pat. No. 3,709,437 (Wright), U.S. Pat. No. 3,937,364 (Wright), U.S. Pat. No. 4,022,351 (Wright), U.S. Pat. No. 4,147,306 (Bennett), U.S. Pat. No. 4,184,615 (Wright), U.S. Pat. No. 4,598,862 (Rice), U.S. Pat. No. 4,615,467 (Grogan et al.) and U.S Pat. No. 5,364,031 (Tamiguchi et al.). All these patents are incorporated herein by reference. A preferred foamer is the F5L pump foamer head manufactured by Daiwa Corporation located in (Tokyo, Japan). This foamer was used to conduct the foam stability studies and the ease of pumping studies discussed in Example 1 . The F5L device has the following characteristics: Mesh Size: 255 Mesh (Upper) / 200 (Lower)

Air/Liquid ratio: 9.5 / 1

Volume per 1 push: 0.95g

Other suitable foaming dispensers may include squeeze foamers. Squeeze foamer packages are well known as exemplified by the disclosures in the following patents that are incorporated herein by reference. U.S. Pat. Nos.: 3,709,437, Wright, issued Jan. 9, 1973; 3,937,364, Wright, issued Feb. 10, 1976; 4,022,351 , Wright, issued May 10, 1977; 4,147,306, Bennett, issued Apr. 3, 1979; 4,184,615, Wright, issued Jan. 22, 1980; 4,598,862, Rice, issued July 8, 1986; and 4,615,467, Grogan et al., issued Oct. 7, 1986; and French Pat. 2,604,622, Verhulst, published Apr. 8, 1988.

When squeeze foamers are used, the composition is placed in the container reservoir (plastic squeeze bottle). Squeezing the container with the hand forces the composition through a foamer head, or other foam producing means, where the composition is mixed with air and then through a homogenizing means that makes the foam more homogeneous and controls the consistency of the foam. The foam is then discharged as a uniform, non-pressurized aerated foam.

The invention will now be described in greater detail by way of the following non- limiting example. The example is for illustrative purposes only and not intended to limit the invention in any way. Physical test methods are described below:

Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts or ratios of materials or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about".

Where used in the specification, the term "comprising" is intended to include the presence of stated features, integers, steps, components, but not to preclude the presence or addition of one or more features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.

All percentages in the specification and examples are intended to be by weight unless stated otherwise.

Example 1

A series of inventive and comparative examples were made according to Tables 1 using the procedure described below in order to evaluate clarity, foam stability on contact with a wet substrate and on dry makeup foundation and ease of pumping foam with the F5L foamer pump at -5 C described above.

TABLE 1

* wt. % on active basis

(1 ) - (4) see procedures below

Based on the results reported in Table 1 , it is evident that greatest foam stability under both wet and dry conditions and ease of pumping was generally better for the inventive sample when compared to the comparative samples.

Test Methods: (1 ) Solubility:

Add Amisafe to Amilite GCK-12K at 20 C (RT) followed by heating up to 80C with stirring. If it is dissolved after 10 minutes at 80 C then the grading is ΌΚ". If there are visible insoluble materials remaining after 10 minutes then the grading is "NG".

(2) Foam Stability on a wet surface

1. Wet a paper towel uniformly with water without pooling the water.

2. Dispense about 0.7g of the sample from the F5L pump foamer on the wet towel.

3. Observe foam properties after 15min under ambient conditions in air at

approx. 20 C (RT) and 50% RH.

4. Grade the foam stability as follows: + TOTAL FOAM COLLAPSE

++ SOME FOAM COLLAPSE

+++ VERY LITTLE FOAM COLLAPSE

(3)Foam stability on dry make-up foundation 1. Apply 0.2g of foundation (Shiseido MAQUILLAGE Lasting Liquid UV, Ochre 10 All Season Type available from Shiseido, Tokyo, Japan) in a 1.5cm X15cm homogeneous square pattern on a polypropylene plastic board.

2. Let dry for 10min under ambient conditions in air at approx. 20 C (RT) and 50% RH.

3. Dispense about 0.7g of samples from the F5L pump foamer on the dried

foundation.

4. Observe foam stability after 15min under ambient conditions in air at approx.

20 C (RT) and 50% RH.

5. Grade the foam stability as follows: + TOTAL FOAM COLLAPSE

++ SOME FOAM COLLAPSE +++ VERY LITTLE FOAM COLLAPSE (4) Ease of dispensing foam from pump

Fill a container with the liquid cleansing product while leaving an air space. Seal with an F5L pump foamer head manufactured by Daiwa Corporation (Tokyo, Japan). Depress the pump and observe if foam is dispensed. If foam is dispensed, rate the ease of dispensing foam from the pump as ΌΚ". If no foam is dispensed (e.g. only a liquid is dispensed) rate the ease of dispensing foam from the pump as "NG". (5) Moisturization test:

1. Assemble a panel of trained persons.

2. Put about 3 g of one test sample on the right forearm of each panelist.

3. Rinse with tap water at ambient temperature for a few minutes. 4. Towel Dry, then grade moisturizing feeling using a maximum score of 5 points per panelist, then sum all the grades.

5. Repeat using about 3g of the comparative test sample on the left forearms of each panelist.

6. Alternatively a suitable instrumental method may be used to compare skin

moisturization between samples. All instrumental evaluations will be taken following a 30-minute acclimation period. The indoor humidity and temperature data will be recorded and included in the final report. Instrumental measurements may be taken at some or all of the following time points: 0, 1 , 2, 4, 6, 8 and 24 hours after product application.

Instruments to be used with this protocol may include but are not limited to the ServoMed Evaporimeter with EP1 or EP2 probe (SeroMed AB, Stockholm, Sweden), Corneometer CM820 (COURAGE+KHAZAKA electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany), the Skicon Skin Hygrometer with the MT-8C probe (I.B.S CO., LTD., Shizuoka-ken, Japan), and the Moisture Checker (STR - School & Science Technology Resources, Scotts Valley, Ca). The room temperature will be maintained at 68° to 77° F and 30% to 40% Relative Humidity. Moisturization will be defined as mean change from baseline of (visual dryness or skin hydration).

(6) Procedure for preparing the examples illustrated in Table 1 :

1. Dissolve Amisafe in Amilite GCK-12K at 80C (Phase 1 ) until the solution is clear. 2. Mix Water and Glycerin at 80C until homogeneous (Phase 2)

3. Add Phase 1 to Phase 2 at 80C and blend.

4. Add NONSOUL LK-30 at 80C and blend.

5. Add Amphitol, Mydol12 and blend well. 6. Cool down to 35C

(7) Turbidity

For the purposes of this invention, the acceptability of formulation transparency or clarity can be measured qualitatively and quantitively using a visual method of turbidity determination and a turbidimeter respectively. Briefly, the visual method involves looking through a determined path length of the formulation to a visual target and determining if the visual target is legible or recognizable. This target may be a straight line, a set of parallel lines, a number or a letter printed on white paper. Place test formulation in a glass beaker such that the height from the bottom of the beaker to the top surface of the formulation is four inches. Make sure the formulation is free of air bubbles. Place the piece of paper with the visual target under the beaker. Look through the top surface of the formulation to the visual target. If the visual target appears similar to the original, the formulation is of acceptable clarity and receives a 'pass' rating. If the visual target appears significantly hazy, or is out of focus, compared to the original target, the formulation is of unacceptable clarity and receives a 'fail' rating. Turbidity may be quantitatively determined by a Turbidimeter, Model DRT-100D, manufactured by Shaban Manufacturing Inc, H. F. Instruments Division using a sample cuvette of 28 mm diameter by 91 mm in length with a flat bottom. Samples that receive a 'pass' rating from the visual method are expected to have a turbidity measurement of less than or equal to 105 NTU's (Nephelometric Turbidity Units). Samples that receive a 'fail' rating from the visual method will have a turbidity measurement of greater than 105 NTU's. The foregoing description and examples illustrate selected embodiments of the present invention. In light thereof variations and modifications will be suggested to one skilled in the art, all of which are within the scope and spirit of this invention.

Claims

J9233(C) CPL WO 2014/029711 PCT/EP2013/067191 18 Claims

1 . An aqueous, liquid composition for cleansing the skin comprising: a. C8 to C18 soap(s) in a total concentration range of about 0.1 to 10 % by wt; b. C10 to C14 acyl glycinate(s) in a total concentration range of about 5 to 25 % by wt.;

d. greater than about 30 % by wt. of water;

f. polyol(s) in a concentration of about 20 to 40.0 % by wt.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is transparent.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is a foaming composition.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising C8 to C12 glucoside(s) in a total concentration of about 1 to 5 % by wt.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising C8 to C12 hydroxysultaine(s) in a total concentration of about 1 to 5 % by wt.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the

viscosity at 25 C is less than 40.0 mPas,

7. A packaged product for cleansing the skin comprising the composition according to any one of the preceding claims, contained in a mechanical pump foam dispenser wherein a foam is dispensed. 19

A method of cleansing and removing waxy makeup from the skin of a user comprising the steps of: a. dispensing as a foam an effective amount of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, for removing oily makeup from wet skin;

b. applying the foam to the wet skin;

c. rubbing the foam on the wet skin for a time sufficient to disperse the oily makeup residing on the skin; and

d. rinsing the foamed composition and dispersed oily makeup from the skin.

A method according to claim 8, wherein the foam is dispensed by a non-aerosol foaming dispenser containing the composition according to any one of claim 1 to 6.