Until recently, Angkor Wat has always been Cambodia’s biggest draw. Situated in Siem Reap, the sprawling temple complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the largest religious monuments is the world and was originally built in the 12th century as a Hindu temple. Traditionally, travelers tack on a few days in Siem Reap to see the impressive site as part of a larger trip to Southeast Asia, according to Dianna Upton, a Cambodia expert at Travel Beyond, a luxury travel agency in Wayzata, Minnesota. “It’s always been included as part of a circuit of countries to hit in the region,” she says.
Today, Cambodia is an add-on destination no more and has a fresh appeal that goes well beyond Angkor Wat: with a growing number of attractions from north to south and a new riviera to boot, the country is on the cusp of being Asia’s next new “it” destination. “To see and fully appreciate the Cambodia of today, give yourself at least a week and ideally ten days,” says Upton. “It’s flourishing and vibrant and worthy of its own trip.”
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Below, four reasons why Cambodia should be on every traveler’s must-visit list:
SIEM REAP’S ART SCENE
Siem Reap is home to a burgeoning contemporary arts scene that includes both local and expat artists. “You have great galleries displaying art and plenty of opportunities to meet with the artists themselves,” says local art specialist Robina Hanley. Through her company Siem Reap Art Tours, Hanley offers behind-the-scenes private tours that take travelers to these galleries and even to the homes and ateliers of some of the hottest painters and sculptors in town. The tours are usually between three and four hours long and typically begin at her own gallery, One Eleven Gallery. Here, travelers can sit back with a glass of wine or a gin and tonic (there’s a full bar) or even a coffee while Belgian artist Christian Develter presents his latest work- most recently, he created pieces based off of the facial tribal tattoos of the Chin Tribe in Myanmar who adorn themselves with designs like spider webs or the sun.
Other stops on the tour vary depending on the medium of art that Hanley’s guests are most interested in. Some of her recommendations include Theam’s House, built and operated by Lim Muy Theam. The sprawling home is full of works by contemporary Khmer artists and also has a museum dedicated to Cambodian artifacts and history. Not to mention, it’s legitimately also Theam’s house. “It’s one of the galleries of its kind in Cambodia,” Robina said. Theam’s family escaped the reign of the Khmer Rouge and was one of the first to be admitted into France as refugees. There, Theam studied interior design but soon transitioned into making art on his own. He then returned to Cambodia in the 90s to teach the next generation of artists in traditional styles.
Batia Sarem Gallery, open only since December, is another of Hanley’s favorites. The art on display rotates: currently, for example, the gallery is hosting an exhibition of a husband and wife team, Svay Sareth and Yim Maline. Sareth is a talented sculptor, creating works that reflect his childhood under the Khmer Rouge, while Maline is proficient in many styles of painting and drawing. “They’re very unique artists, and It’s the first time they’ve ever had a show together,” says Hanley.
Most of Hanley’s tours end at Treeline Urban Resort, located just by Siem Reap River, and a hotel cum art space in one. The public spaces are like museums and display works by renowned artists, both local and international. The kicker is a drink, maybe two, at the property’s rooftop bar overlooking the city/
Rates for tours start at $90 a person.
JAYA HOUSE RIVER PARK
A hotel usually isn’t a reason to visit a country, but Jaya House River Park is no ordinary hotel- it truly is noteworthy enough to be a destination in and of itself. It may only be in its second year of operation, but the property is already a leader in sustainability in Cambodia. But first the basics: the stunning riverside Jaya House has 36 generously sized rooms, two large pools and an abundance of lawn space and flora and fauna that engulf guests in nature. A stay includes a long list of amenities including laundry, massage (the spa is fabulous, and the therapists are exceptional) and tuk-tuk service to and from the temples (even wheelchair accessible ones!). The mini-bar, stocked daily with water, juices, soda and beer, is also included and so is a lavish breakfast spread that includes Cambodian and Western staples. At lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves a mix of Khmer and Western dishes, including vegan and gluten-free options. Most of the produce is grown on-site or comes from local farms, and all the breads, pastries and ice-creams are made in-house.
The hotel’s general manager, Christian de Boer, pulls out all the stops when it comes to helping the community in as many ways as possible. He employs mainly local Khmer staff, who are genuinely warm and on the ball when it comes to service. Truth be told, several were so endearing that my heart tugged when it was time to check out.
De Boer also makes sure that the hotel financially supports multiple non-profit organizations that promote Khmer music, art and history- the property even contributed to the planting of nearly 1,000 trees along the Siem Reap River. “It’s definitely considered one of the most socially conscious hotels around,” says Upton, of Travel Beyond. “It’s also very big on showcasing local artists, from the well-known to schoolchildren.”
And then there’s De Boer’s RefillNOTLandfill, an initiative he co-founded to make Cambodia a plastic free destination. All guests are gifted a reusable water bottle when they check in, and the staff is more than happy to keep refilling them with filtered water. Back at home, I continue to use mine daily.
“You feel good staying there,” says Upton. “Not only is it a beautiful place, you feel like you contributed something just by staying. They’re trying to get the message across.”
In fact, the hotel is such a retreat that guests can spend at least a day or two there and have no reason to leave.
Nightly rates start at $193, inclusive of breakfast, laundry, daily mini-bar, a massage and tuk-tuk transfer to Angkor Wat.
SHINTA MANI WILD
It’s the property you arrive into by zip line. Yes. An uber-luxurious getaway disguised as a camping trip, the jungle experience in Shinta Mani Wild is unlike anything else in Cambodia- okay, maybe even the world, and it’s not just because of the dramatic way to get here. Created by world-renowned resort designer Bill Bensley, Shinta Mani Wild is a collection of 15 spacious tents situated along nearly a mile of river and waterfalls. Bensley chose the location between Bokar National Park and Kirirom National Park in order to close the gap between them, ensuring the detriment of would-be poachers and illegal logging and mining. At a 1000 square feet each, the tents are more like glamorous bungalows and are filled with art and knick-knacks from around the world. They give you the feel of being on a safari expedition but have modern conveniences like air conditioning and WiFi. Food is tasty and healthy: the restaurant features local favorites such as flavorful but subtly spiced curries that show of produce and herbs foraged from the surrounding wilderness and international staples such as steaks. The bar serves up killer gin and tonics and has an expansive list of whiskies and wines, too. Then there’s the spa where indulging in jet lag reducing or deep tissue massage is a must.
But amenities aside, the activity options are endless: take to the water in a 20-foot-long luxury boat outfitted with a bar and plenty of chairs to lounge in the sun, or hop in a kayak and paddle through the estuary. Guests can also ride out with the wildlife rangers and take part in anti-poaching patrols, keeping a lookout for any illegally placed traps or snares, letting visitors see with their own eyes what these groups do to protect their homelands from environmental abuse.
“When you’re here, it’s all about being immersed in nature,”says Upton. This area of Cambodia has gotten a pretty bad rap in the West because of its history of political violence. However, Cambodia has progressed leaps and bounds from its turbulent past in the 70s. “New life has been breathed into this stunning region with so much natural beauty,” says Upton. “It’s the first time in 10 years that things are really starting to change.”
Nightly rates start at $1,900 for two people and include accommodations, meals, alcohol and activities. Three night minimum stay.
CAMBODIAN RIVIERA
The bustle at the Cambodian coastline is something that has barely existed until very recently, as it had been largely unused. “People would come to Cambodia to see the ruins, but if you wanted a beach you would definitely go to Thailand,” Dianna said. “Not that the beaches weren’t nice, but there was just no development; there was nowhere to stay.”
However, two new luxury resorts – the Six Senses Krabey Island and Alila Villas Koh Russey – are invigorating the area with new life. Both can be reached from through daily flights Sihanoukville from Siem Reap (the trip is under and hour) or Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, or by car from Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, taking five hours or two and a half hours respectively. Six Senses has been open since February, and I can consider myself lucky to be one of the first to experience it. With 40 private villas, amazing views of the water and jungles, one of the best spas I’ve ever seen and two killer restaurants stocked with an acre’s worth of produce from an on-site farm, it’s extraordinary. Every villa is like its own bungalow and has a private sundeck, plunge pool and rain shower. The two restaurants, Tree and AHA, serve local Khmer cuisine with a modern flare and international favorites respectively. Six Senses is all about wellness, affording guests the use of a lavish spa with personalized programs, a yoga studio, a meditation cave, water sports, a walking/jogging trail and more.
Alila sports 63 sleek and stunning lodges designed by Singaporean architect Chioh-Hui Goh, ranging in size from small pavilions to massive four-bedroom estates. The property features a beachfront pool, two restaurants – Horizon, which serves French fusion cuisine, and the Beach Shack, where grilled seafood is the speciality. The spa offers free yoga and tai chi classes, and the outdoor movies are one of the highlights of a stay.
Nightly rates from $430 for Six Senses, inclusive of breakfast and boat transfers to and from the island and $385 for Alila, inclusive of breakfast and boat transfers to and from the island.
TRIP PLANNER:
Dianna Upton, of Travel Beyond, is an expert at planning customized Cambodia trips and created a superb itinerary for me. She can be contacted via email at diannau@travelbeyond.com or by phone at 952-698-5196.
GETTING THERE:
There’s no nonstop flights from the United States to either Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, but several airlines offer connections through Europe or other cities in Asia. I flew Cathay Pacific nonstop- a 13 hour trip- from New York to Hong Kong and, following a short layover, flew on Cathay again to Siem Reap- the flight was about two hours. On my way home, I flew back to Hong Kong out of Phnom Penh. The airline has one of the best first and business class lounges I’ve been in- the food is on par with a top rated restaurant and so is the selection of wines, champagnes and other drinks. In the skies, the business class seats are luxuriously comfortable, the entertainment options make the time fly by, and the service is pampering and on point.