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The day we went to the Neskowin Ghost Forest, everything seemed normal. Little did I know things were about to become very not-normal, and this would be our last weekend trip for a long time. If I’d known, though, I would have been glad to have such a bizarre and beautiful destination for this last trip.

It was the end of February, and the forecast predictably showed showers every day on the Oregon Coast. We loaded rain gear and hiking poles into the car, and I managed to squeeze into a hooded sweatshirt from high school. At 7 months pregnant, it seemed every week I expanded out of more of my clothes, like a slow-motion version of Aunt Marge inflating in Harry Potter. We listened to our audiobook mystery series as we drove the two hours from Portland to the town of Neskowin on the central Oregon Coast.

The following week, a historic snow storm would lock down Portland, and a couple days later, our baby girl would make a surprise arrival…9 weeks early! But on this late February morning, we didn’t know, and we were just excited to explore a ghost forest for the first time.

In today’s post, I’ll share what we found at the Neskowin Ghost Forest, and five things to know for your own trip to the ghost forest.

1. What is the Neskowin Ghost Forest?

Ghost forests are forests that were buried by sand or sea. Preserved under sand and seawater, the trees have died, but the stumps remain intact. Sometimes when the sands recede with time, the ghost forests are revealed again.

The Neskowin Ghost Forest was once a quintessential Oregon Coast old-growth forest of Sitka spruce trees. 2000 years ago, it was mysteriously buried under the beach.

The trees in the Neskowin Ghost Forest aren’t petrified. They are still wood, improbably preserved for thousands of years. It reminds me of one of those bizarre stories of ancient people who fell in bogs or crevasses thousands of years ago, only to be discovered in modern times, their hair and clothing still intact.

These days, the eerie stumps of the trees materialize on Neskowin Beach at low tide. In lieu of moss and lichen, their bark is now alive with barnacles. The forest has become a part of the sea.

2. How to Get to the Neskowin Ghost Forest

If you don’t mind wading through a freezing stream, the Neskowin Ghost Forest is easy to reach. It’s in the town of Neskowin on the central Oregon Coast, about two hours’ drive southwest of Portland. Navigate to the Neskowin Beach State Recreation Site on Google Maps, where you’ll find a public parking lot. Follow the trail from the southwest corner of the lot, which leads a short distance to Neskowin Beach.

Once at the beach, turn left (south). It’s less than a mile along the beach from the parking lot to the ghost forest, but you’ll soon encounter a sizable stream with no bridge or obvious crossing point. To get to the ghost forest, you’ll need to wade across it. This may not be a big deal in the summer, but I can attest to it being totally freezing in February.

At first, we thought there must be another way across. Other ghost forest seekers cheerfully strolled on the sand on the other side, looking totally nonplussed. I lurked there on the edge of the stream for a while, hoping to catch sight of someone else fording the river.

Bryan shook his head. “I’m going to see if there’s a way around that giant sea stack instead, since the tide is so low.”

This sea stack, Proposal Rock, gives Neskowin Beach the rugged wildness so characteristic of the Oregon Coast. Beyond Proposal Rock, a series of misty headlands rise behind the beach, their tree-covered slopes alluding to the ghost forest’s past. The greens of the near headlands fade to muted grays in the distance. It’s a striking and beautiful place.

I turned back to the stream, peeled off my shoes and socks, and gingerly stepped in. It reminded me forcibly of the ice bucket we’d all sit in after high school Track practice to soothe our sore shins. But temperature aside, wading across the stream is definitely the most direct route to the ghost forest.

As I balanced on one foot while maneuvering freezing toes back into my socks, I stopped to watch a family that had just arrived at the banks of the stream. I noticed, with a twinge of jealousy, that they were all wearing rubber boots.

Bryan did manage to get around Proposal Rock on the ocean side since the tide was very low when we visited, but I wouldn’t recommend it. A wave came in and filled his shoes with water anyway! Plus, the ocean side can be dangerous due to sneaker waves.

3. What to Pack for Your Visit to the Neskowin Ghost Forest

The top item I’d recommend for your trip to the Neskowin Ghost Forest is a pair of tall rubber boots so you can get across that stream without getting as cold as I did! If you don’t have them already, here are recommended well-rated, tall women’s rain boots and men’s rain boots.

The Oregon Coast is generally chilly and breezy, so except for the warmest summer days, you’ll likely want a jacket (preferably a rain jacket). If you’re looking for rain gear, check out our recommended rain jackets (men’s/women’s) and rain pants (men’s/women’s).

4. Best Time to Visit the Neskowin Ghost Forest

To see the Neskowin Ghost Forest, you’ll need to visit at low tide. Otherwise, the ghost forest will be underwater! Check out the Neskowin Beach tide chart to plan your visit. The photos in this post were taken when the tide was at -1.3 feet.

I’d recommend arriving about an hour before low tide so you’ll have time to walk to the ghost forest and explore it before the tide comes back in.

5. Other Things to Do Near the Neskowin Ghost Forest

Thanks for joining us at the Neskowin Ghost Forest! While you’re in the area, consider making a weekend of it and exploring one of these four top hikes in neighboring Lincoln City, driving the Three Capes Scenic Route, or stopping for a butterbeer at the Lincoln City Harry Potter cafe!

Other Adventures in the Pacific Northwest

For more adventure ideas in the Pacific Northwest, check out our PNW Trip Planner. You can find adventures near you and filter by season and difficulty level. There are weird and wonderful things to explore any time of year. The trip planner links to blog posts to help you plan your next adventure.

Happy exploring!