SUCHINDRAM or SUCHEENDRAM — What? Where? Am sure many readers would not have heard of it. I thought I was better-informed about Suchindram. It is a small town in Kanyakumari district of Tamilnadu, close to the southernmost tip of the Indian mainland, where there is a famous temple dedicated to Hanuman or Anjaneya, a deity considered very powerful and one that fulfilled the desires of devotees. This is what I thought. Imagine my surprise when I had the occasion to visit Suchindram recently…………… Suchindram offered something more than Hanuman, offered something not only to those religiously inclined but also to those interested in history and architecture. Above all, it offers peace and tranquility in a charming picture postcard setting.

It was evening at Kanyakumari where were staying and there was still about two hours to go before the panoramic sunset which tourists flock the place for. Someone suggested a short trip to Suchindram and be back to watch the sunset. Sounded good. Suchindram is but 12 kilometers away and we thought a quick drive and darshan of Hanuman would be fine before watching the sun go down. That we missed watching the sunset is another story altogether. Driving along the road to Nagercoil with a combination of concretized road and greenery on both sides, we soon branched off the main road and saw the arch forming the entrance to Suchindram. A few meters ahead and we could see the glistening waters of the temple tank to our right. —Not the algae-filled green waters with overgrowth of lilies and lotus, one is accustomed to seeing.

Further ahead we could the imposing temple tower. Checked out online and figured out that the temple was dedicated to Sthanumalayan or Thanumalayan and the tower was 134 meters high. We got off the car wondering where the famous Hanuman was. As we were entering the main temple door, I was told to take off my shirt & banian, a practice prevalent in many temples in this area. However, it is not mandatory to wear a dhoti or mundu, trousers would do.

As I took my first step into the temple, I tripped and was about to go sprawling but a temple employee standing there held his hand out and prevented me from touching terra firma on all fours. Was a bit shaken that the entry was not too auspicious. There was not much of crowd and soon we were standing before the Adimoolavar sannadhi or the original shrine. There was an elderly gentleman (not sure if he was a temple employee), who spoke decent English and Tamil too who became our self-appointed guide. He started the narration when I questioned him where Hanuman was. The temple complex has many small shrines dedicated to various gods and goddesses, but Hanuman had gained in popularity among devotees as it was and is believed that he fulfills the desires of those who worship him. The presiding deity of this massive temple is Tstanumalayan or Tanumalayan — ‘Sthanu’ meaning Shiva, ‘Mal’ meaning Vishnu & ‘Ayan’ standing for Brahma. Yes, the trinity is worshipped in lingam form here with Brahma at the base, Vishnu in the middle and Shiva on top. This lingam is said to be ‘swayambhu’ i.e. natural and not man-made. Over 1500 years old, the three lingams are seen at the base of an ancient tree. No abhishekams are performed on these lingams as it has been found out that the tree could get impacted. Moving a little ahead we find a small hall with statues of 4 kings/dynasties who contributed greatly to the expansion of the temple beginning from the 8th century AD right up to the 15th century. The Cheras, Cholas, Pandyas & Tirumalai Nayakar stand here. What is special? each one of them are carved out of a pillar with a portion of their bodies connected to it. Amazing architecture indeed!

Our guide Radhakrishnan continued his narration — Suchindram is one of the few shrines which is frequented by both Shaivites and Vaishnavites as the presiding deity is the trinity of Shiva, Vishnu & Brahma. Two legends are associated with Suchindram —

The place was originally called Gnaaranya. Indra the King of the Gods once got infatuated with Ahalya, the wife of sage Gautama and using deceit molested her. When the sage became aware of this, he turned his wife to stone and cursed Indra that a thousand female genitals should sprout all over his body. Ashamed, Indra indulged in a rigorous penance at this place and finally by the grace of Shiva and others, he regained his original form. A thankful Indra built a shrine for the trinity at this place, and it came to be known as Suchi Indram — the place where Indra was purified. Even today, the midnight pooja at this temple is not performed, though all the necessary materials are kept ready. It is believed that Indra Himself visits the temple at night to perform pooja.

The second story is that Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma wanted to test the purity or chastity of Anusuya wife of the sage Atri. Disguised as poor Brahmins they came and sought alms from Anusuya. As she was about to serve them food, the trinity remarked that they had taken a vow that they would eat food only if someone served it to them with no clothes on, i.e. in the nude. Without batting an eyelid, Anusuya by her powers of chastity, turned Shiva, Vishnu & Brahma into infants, took them in her arms, breast-fed them and put them to sleep. The consorts of the trinity were alarmed and requested Anusuya to turn them back to their original forms. Anusuya obliged and the trinity blessed Anusuya & Atri with a child, Lord Dattatreya, who was in reality, the three of them together. After they left, three swayambhu lingams sprouted at the base of the tree, yes, the tree which we saw at the Adhimoolavar sannidhi. Then where is Tsthanumalayan lingam with Shiva, Vishnu & Brahma being present? Be patient, said Radhakrishnan with a smile.

Now he pointed to a huge statue of Nandeeswara or Nandi, Shiva’s bull. This, he said was among the largest Nandi statues in Tamilnadu and was made entirely of shankhu (sea-shell) powder. Right opposite the Nandi, we were shown the main sannadhi of Sthanulmalayan, where the trinity was in the form of a single lingam. This one was man-made. Lit brightly by a number of lamps, the place presents a serene feel.

So much more to see, hear and admire as we walked across the long corridor lined by magnificently sculptured pillars on both sides. There is the shrine dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara or Balaji made of Navapashana. What is more, this temple also houses one of the 51 Shaktipeeths. It is believed that when the body of Sati was cut into 51 pieces by Lord Vishnu using his Sudarshan Chakra, her upper teeth fell at this place. The goddess is worshipped here as Narayani. Another surprise, we see Ganapati worshipped in female form here as Vigneshwari. Had not come across this elsewhere.

No sign of Hanuman yet, as we were now shown a small platform on the ceiling of which were the nine planets representing the Navagraha. One would have seen Navagraha installed on the ground/on platforms but on the ceiling? A first for me. Story goes that the effect of Saturn was felt by none other than Shiva Himself, who prayed and appeased Saturn here. Next, there were two statues, again carved from single pieces of stones representing yakshas. Their peculiarity? The guide took a long flexible twig/stick and inserted into one ear of the statue and the stick came out of the other ear. Symbolically indicating that anything bad heard in one year should be let out of the other ear. Something about the human anatomy too — the stick when inserted into one nostril could be pulled out of the other or when inserted into one ear could be pulled out of a nostril too…… indicating ENT discovery in the past.

Now we were at the Musical pillars. Four of them, each carved out of a single stone in the Alankara Mandapam. What is more, two of these pillars have 33 smaller pillars carved in between. Using bare hands, if one taps in a particular manner, sapatswara or the seven notes play out beautifully from one pillar. In another pillar we get the sound of drums and in another the sound of water as in a Jaltarang. Unbelievable workmanship, this. Has to be experienced to believe it. Next, the guide led us to the shrine of Rama & Sita. As we were watching and listening with rapt attention, he suddenly turned around and said, there is the famous Hanuman. Sure enough, there HE was in his Vishwaroopa form, all of 22 feet tall, an awe-inspiring sight.

This is the form in which Hanuman is said to have presented Himself before Sita when she was in Askokvan. Unlike other idols of Hanuman, this one is slightly different. His tail is held up on His head and not behind Him. The story goes that after setting fire to Lanka, Hanuman felt the burning sensation in his tail and so He jumped into the sea to cool off. Even to this day, devotees apply butter on Hanuman’s tail to help Him to cool off. (There is a steel ladder placed behind). Legenda abound about Hanuman. It is said that the idol was buried under the earth fearing invasion by Tipu Sultan. No one knew about it even when people were visiting the Tsthanumalayan temple. Small children while playing outside seemed to trip and fall down at one particular place. (Another version says, it was a learned Brahmin who fell down). The place was dug up and the idol of Hanuman came up. It was installed outside the temple but then Hanuman in his Vishwaroopa kept growing and played truant too. Finally, it was decided to bring Hanuman inside the temple, seat Him opposite Rama and Sita and further nail Him to the ground. Since then, Hanuman has calmed down and continues to bless His devotees from far and near, overshadowing the main deity Tsthanumalayan.

Whoever is planning a trip to Kanyakumari or Thiruvanthapuram or Kovalam, I would strongly urge them to make a one-day trip to Suchindram to soak in this hidden marvel.