Mérida has captured the attention of intrepid travelers seeking a combination of history, art, architecture, music, culinary adventures, shopping, and good old-fashioned fun. Located in the northwest corner of the Yucatán Peninsula, the city of Mérida is quickly climbing the hot list ranks with its boutiques, boutique hotels, rooftop bars, and street-side taco stands.
Follow along for my Mérida guide—the ultimate way to spend 12 hours in Mexico’s hottest city.
My whirlwind trip to Mérida is hardly enough time to scratch the surface of the Yucatán State’s culturally-rich capital. I had only three days to explore. Three days to eat, drink, shop, and soak up Mérida’s unique vibe.
But, if I had to pare the best of Mérida down to one day, this is what I’d do.
12 Hours in Mérida
I’ve been invited to stay at a friend’s Airbnb in Mérida. Amy and her husband are living there for a month, taking advantage of the new work-from-anywhere culture. Amy’s detailed research provides me with excellent local intel; like Mérida’s best shopping, Mérida’s best restaurants, and Mérida’s best bars.
The only downside (and I use downside loosely here) is that I can’t stay in one of Mérida’s boutique hotels. Ever the nosy blogger, I peek into a few anyway—for research! I decide that if I were to stay in a Mérida hotel, hands down, I’d choose Coqui Coqui.
Coqui Coqui has just one room. One fabulous room! So, if Mérida is on your Mérida wish list, book the room first and wrap your itinerary tightly around it. Part perfumery, part boutique hotel, all Belle Epoque boudoir-chic, Coqui Coqui dazzles with its marble-clad bathroom and his and her (her and her, him and him) side-by-side claw-footed tubs. The tubs alone are reason enough for me to plan a trip to Mérida, but the highly-curated boutique and the building itself are worth visiting even if the room isn’t available.
But first, coffee
I don’t know about you, but my day isn’t a day without caffeine. I wish I wasn’t a coffee snob, but I’ve been on this planet long enough to know one thing—I need very good coffee. Thankfully, Mérida accommodates.
9am, Soco Bakery
A nondescript stone facade and a rickety wooden bench are all that welcome patrons to Soco, a bakery on a colorful Merida backstreet. It would be all too easy to pass by and never know the delectable treasures that lie inside. That is if it weren’t for one thing—the buttery scent of just-baked croissants wafting from the door.
Soco is a social hub. It’s immediately clear their clientele is fiercely loyal. I can see why. The barista creates specialty coffees like chai lattes, cold brews, horchatas, and kombucha. The baked goods are beyond explanation. Aside from a variety of fresh loaves of bread, croissants, and pain au chocolate, Soco has melt-in-your-mouth options like babka, Basque cheesecake, and mango lemon cruffins (not a typo, think croissant/muffin)
I grab a flat white and a bag of pastries. Fully fueled, I’m ready to take on Mérida.
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10am, Plaza Grande
Plaza Grande is the beating heart of Mérida—a garden-filled square that’s an ideal place to begin exploring. Technically, tree-lined Plaza Grande is a circle rather than a square. Its eight pedestrian walkways radiate from its center. I amble over to the unmissable, larger-than-life, rainbow-colored Mérida letters. With the Mexican flag waving in the background, it’s a natural photo op as well as an official welcome to this vibrant city.
11am, San Ildefonso Cathedral
As if this colorful welcome isn’t enough reason to love Plaza Grande, it’s also home to the Cathedral of Mérida. Also known as San Ildefonso, the 16-century cathedral looms over the east side of the square, I mean circle. Constructed from Mayan ruins, it’s an imposing backdrop to the lively promenades and historic buildings.
Street vendors set up their stalls, tourists wander, and locals rush past on their way to work. There’s a buzz in the air. Mérida is waking up!
Before I know it, it’s time for lunch. Am I hungry? I am! My flaky almond croissant is a distant high-calorie memory. Amy, my favorite Mérida-know-it-all, recommends ceviche from El Marlín Azul. Never one to pass on local insight, I turn right on Calle 62 and continue to rebuild my appetite.
12pm, El Marlín Azul
Unfortunately, El Marlín Azul is only a four-minute walk from Plaza Grande, which doesn’t bode well for my step counter. With humble beginnings as a food truck in the industrial zone, El Marlín Azul is now considered one of the best places to eat in the city. Another unassuming storefront leads me to think that the best places to eat in Mérida compete to look the shabbiest.
A handwritten menu lists the day’s specials. I don’t speak Spanish but I know enough words to order my faves: camarone, pulpo, and pescado ceviche among them. Other delights include tuna tostados, shrimp brocheta, and fajitas. Trust me when I say no one leaves El Marlín Azul hungry. No wonder dinners don’t begin until at least 9pm. I swear I’ll never eat again. But I don’t swear I’ll never drink again. With so many local watering holes and swanky rooftop bars, a pre-dinner cocktail progressive is in my future.
Once again full and happy, it’s time to shop. I continue down Calle 62 towards Caracol Púrapura, stopping at boutiques along the way.
130pm, Caracol Púrapura
Caracol Púrapura (Purple Snail) is a series of galleries that feels more like a museum than a shopping area. Handmade Talavera ceramic jewelry, Mexican folk art, and intricately embroidered clothing are just a few of the treasures to be unearthed from this inner courtyard at the intersection of Calles 60 and 53. The handicrafts found at Caracol Púrapura preserve the traditions of Mexico while simultaneously supporting local artists.
I head back towards Plaza Grande en route to another Mérida shop that champions Mexican artisans in a completely different, yet equally unique setting.
230pm, Taller Maya
It’s deceiving to refer to Taller Maya as just a home goods store. It has goals beyond traditional commercial endeavors. Taller Maya is a part of the World Fair Trade Organization which aims to keep Mayan culture alive through relationships with hundreds of artisans in 40 communities across the Yucatán Peninsula.
Marble pedestal bowls, wooden furniture, luminous lamps, and hand-woven hammocks only begin to describe the wares offered at this highly-curated Mérida boutique. Taller Maya is open and airy—a study in neutrals designed to feel like an uber-modern Mayan living room. I briefly wonder about squatter’s rights in Mexico.
I always think the best way to get to know a new city is through café culture. It’s one of my least active city activities. Depending on the time of day, I sit with a (coffee, a glass of wine, a Bloody Mary, etc) to watch city life unfold before me. After all this walking and shopping, I’m ready to imbibe.
4pm, El Lucero
Amy and I stop for a pre-dinner taco and beer at El Lucero. It’s here that I fall in love with panuchos. (I didn’t know what a panucho was either.) Panuchos are a specialty food of the Yucatán—refried tortillas stuffed with refried black beans and topped with a combo of pulled chicken, chopped cabbage, tomato, avocado, pickled red onions, and jalapeno pepper. Oh panucho, you had me at ‘refried’. While beer is not my go-to drink, it’s Mexico, and Corona pairs perfectly with my panucho.
6pm, Patio Petanca
The next stop on our pre-dinner progressive food tour is Patio Petanca. A graffiti-covered metal door opens up to an outdoor courtyard space with two boule courts and piles of games to keep one’s mind sharp throughout happy hour.
In Merida, boules is known as petanque, hence the name Patio Petanca. The petanque court takes up nearly all of Patio Petanca’s modest space. We opt for the less active game of giant Jenga and enjoy what I can safely say is the world’s best taco.
730pm, Terraza Picheta
A mini rainstorm has us shelter in place for another beer and the world’s best taco before we head back toward the center of Mérida. Just off the north side of the square circle is Terraza Picheta, a rooftop bar and restaurant known for its sunset views. The panoramic views are dominated in the east by the cathedral. Bravo, Terraza Picheta, you win the Mérida location lottery.
Finally, we are off to dinner. Am I hungry? I’m not sure. But, I’m happy for the 15-minute stroll to Micaela Mar & Lena. It’s an opportunity to see the streets of Mérida come alive at night and burn a few calories ahead of my next meal.
930pm, Micaela Mar & Lena
Yucatán cuisine is influenced by a combination of local Mayan, Caribbean, Spanish, North African, and Middle Eastern cultures. It’s no wonder food is the center of Mérida’s universe. Our dinner at Micaela Mar & Lena proves that simple, unfussy food trump all.
Set in a historic home, Micaela has ambient lighting, a bright color palette, and a convivial buzz. Mar & Lena translates to sea and grill, which means that although seafood-centric, there are no wrong choices on the menu.
Dinner starts late and ends very late. I’ve spent an entire day, eating, drinking, sightseeing, and shopping in Mérida. I’m shattered, but happily so.
Adios, Mérida
Amy and I wander back to her Airbnb, buzzing from the wine, satiated from heaving plates of gorditas, uchepos, and guacamole. The temperatures have cooled off and the streets are quieter the further we get from the heart of the city. I hear a woman singing somewhere in the distance. Her soprano notes cut through the air and carry up into the night sky. In a city chock full of energy and vitality, it’s a theatrical ending to my adventure. Adios, Mérida.
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Ahhh… I want to go back! Reading this brings back great memories. Of fun, food and great friends! xo
Friendly and informative travel writing, excellent in every way. When I go to Merida I will definitely be using this article as my guidebook.