H Magazine Winter 2022/2023

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WINTER 2022/2023 You don’t find Zurich, the city finds you. hip& hot ––– H MAGAZINE’S TRAVEL GUIDE WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS Art safari 58 Pots and pans 88 Let’s rock! 104 123 Magic moments Yacht club 72
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Established in 1934, the Swiss Deluxe Hotels group combines 39 of Switzerland’s most iconic five-star hotels: ANDERMATT: The Chedi Andermatt AROSA: Tschuggen Grand Hotel ASCONA: Castello del Sole, Hotel Eden Roc BAD RAGAZ: Grand Hotel Quellenhof & Spa Suites BASEL: Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois BERN: Bellevue Palace, Hotel Schweizerhof Bern & Spa CRANS-MONTANA: Guarda Golf Hotel & Residences, LeCrans Hotel & Spa GENÈVE: Beau-Rivage, Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Mandarin Oriental Geneva GSTAAD: Gstaad Palace, Le Grand Bellevue, Park Gstaad, The Alpina Gstaad INTERLAKEN: Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa LAUSANNE: Beau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne Palace LE MONT-PÈLERIN: Le Mirador Resort & Spa LUGANO: Hotel Splendide Royal LUZERN: Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern MONTREUX : Fairmont Le Montreux Palace NEUCHÂTEL: Beau-Rivage Hotel PONTRESINA: Grand Hotel Kronenhof ST. MORITZ: Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, Suvretta House VEVEY: Grand Hôtel du Lac VITZNAU: Park Hotel Vitznau ZERMATT: Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, Mont Cervin Palace, Riffelalp Resort 2222 m ZÜRICH: Baur au Lac, La Réserve Eden au Lac, The Dolder Grand, Widder Hotel

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PS. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram (@swissdeluxehotels) and check the online version of this magazine on our website at swissdeluxehotels.com under the Magazine section or directly via the QR code above.

mposing but not pompous, busy but not hectic, clean but not sterile. Gracefully eclipsing its allure behind a thin veil of pol ished façades and picture-perfect environs, Zurich reveals a fine tapestry of cultures, contemporary urban design, art galleries and world-class cuisine. As we explore the treasures of this famously discreet city, we introduce some of its must-know address es, embark on an art safari (Page 58), and speak to some of Zurich’s insiders.

From its grand main artery, the Bahnhofstrasse lined with flagship stores teeming with busy-bodying executives, to the hidden charms of the old town, Zurich has consistently maintained its status as the world’s smallest metrop olis. Cosmopolitan to its very core, Switzerland’s largest city is not only the country’s main gateway with possibly the most efficient airport in Europe but also expertly as serts its position as the epicentre of business and banking.

From the hillside luxury of The Dolder Grand to La Ré serve Eden au Lac right by the lake; the charm of The Widder Hotel in the old town or the sumptuous Baur au Lac; multi-faceted luxury is always just a few steps away. And speaking of multi-faceted, we meet Chef Maximilian Müller at the two-starred Pavillon.

As the last signs of autumn usher in the sure promise of winter, these winds of change also bring along a metamor phosis of a different kind. At Swiss Deluxe Hotels, care ful examination and meaningful deliberation take place around the topic of more contemporary ways of working within our industry. As the hospitality sector changes in a post-pandemic world, so do the considerations around our valued staff members. As we strive to find answers to these new challenges, our member properties uphold their com mitment to the highest levels of service and unparalleled attention to detail.

Much like Zurich, with a lifestyle second to none, it is no wonder that so many choose to call this charming city their home.

Let Zurich find you, and let us welcome you to the World of Swiss Deluxe Hotels!

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© Baur au Lac LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
© KO Photography
Film

2. STEFAN HOTTINGER-BEHMER An author for Harper’s Bazaar, Wallpaper, Esquire, Travel & Leisure and Elle Decoration, to name but a few, the former Vogue Publisher signs H Magazine’s regular Suite Talk column. Having transitioned to strategic consultancy and settled on the balmier shores of Lake Lugano, he can’t resist penning stories around high-end travel, design and lifestyle. For this issue, he embarks on an art tour of Zurich with his friend of over 20 years, Gigi Kracht. discerningmedia.com

3. DANIEL STAUB The creative mind behind several pop-ups in Zurich, speakeasy entrepreneur and author of the bar scene blog The Pouring Tales is on a mission to find and portray the most innovative and passionate bartenders from across the globe – the true artists of modern mixology. Over the past few years, he has visited countless spots around the world. For H Magazine, he introduces some of his favourite bars in Zurich. thepouringtales.com

SPECIAL THX TO

5. GIGI KRACHT Following an education at a prestigious school in uptown New York and a subsequent degree in Journalism, Gigi Kracht left the stateside shores of the Big Apple to relocate to Zurich. A passionate art collector and skilled spotter of new talent, she finds joy in white sandy beaches, rosé champagne and, more recently and importantly, her first grandson. The creator and curator of the Art in the Park series hosted yearly at the Baur au Lac’s idyllic gardens for the past 20 years, also sits on the International Director’s Council of the Guggenheim. gigi.kracht@art-in-the-park.net

4. ALEX KÜHN As editor-in-chief of Switzerland’s oldest and most celebrated gourmet magazine, marmite, and the author of a series of cookbooks, Alex Kühn lives in the bliss of combining his two greatest passions: writing and eating. Meals with such greats as Andreas Caminada, Peter Knogl or Thomas Dorfer excite him just as much or perhaps even more than any football field wins by his favourite team Dynamo Dresden. a.kuehn@marmite.ch

16 CONTRIBUTORS
1. STEFFI HIDBER Beauty journalist Steffi Hidber was born in Switzerland but spent her childhood in sunny Southern California, which explains both her love of Mexican food and her unbending use of sunscreen. She lives with her husband and two daughters in Zurich and has been successfully running her blog www.heypretty.ch for nearly ten years, where she shares daily beauty tips, product reviews and spa experiences with her readers. heypretty.ch
SWITZERLAND’S LEADING SHOPPING DESTINATION SHOP ONLINE GLOBUS.CH ZÜRICH SCHWEIZERGASSE 11 8001 ZÜRICH & THEATERSTRASSE 12 8001 ZÜRICH ST. GALLEN MULTERGASSE 47 9000 ST. GALLEN LUZERN PILATUSSTRASSE 4 6002 LUZERN LAUSANNE RUE DU PONT 5 1003 LAUSANNE GLATTZENTRUM NEUE WINTERTHURERSTRASSE 99 8304 WALLISELLEN GENF RUE DU RHÔNE 48 1204 GENÈVE BERN SPITALGASSE 17 - 21 3001 BERN BASEL PROVISORIUM FREIE STRASSE 50 4001 BASEL

© Kurt Schwitters: Merz. Celebrating 100 years of DADA. Galerie Gmurzynska, Zurich, Paradeplatz

WINTER HIGHLIGHTS

Travel Guide

42

Our tips for an unforgettable time in Zurich. Presented by Martin Hoch and Nico Schaerer.

Art Safari

58

An art safari through Zurich with Gigi Kracht and Stefan Hottinger-Behmer.

Spa Review

68

Pampering in a class of its own at The Dolder Grand Spa with beauty journalist and blogger Steffi Hidber.

Seasonal Pick 72

Exploring yacht-club-chic at La Réserve Eden au Lac with Beatrice Lessi.

The View

78

Leaving his mark on Zurich’s world-class Baur au Lac, seasoned General Manager Wilhelm Luxem looks back at his career and acclaim.

The Rainbow’s End

A treasure trove of urban delights curated by Clifford Lilley.

Gourmet Tour Deluxe

Zurich rocks – for well-travelled gourmets and lovers of sundry cuisine tasted by Patricia Bröhm.

Suite Talk

112

Three reasons to leave the Widder Hotel’s Penthouse Suite and many more to stay in.

Oskar

114

Fondue, fun and friends with a colour-blind Labrador visiting the ultra-stylish Carlton Hotel in St. Moritz as experienced by Titus Arnu and Enno Kapitza.

Swiss Top Events

Magic moments at unique places

Standards

Editorial 15

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104

83

Swiss Deluxe Hotels Locations 136

Swiss Deluxe Hotels Overview 138 Publishing Credits 146

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SHAPING THE FUTURE

The fact that the world finds itself at a crucial turning point has become more than just a mere byword this year. Geopolitical power struggles, clashes of ideologies, a pandemic, rethinking global supply chains and new working models provide the framework for a wide range of scenarios regarding our future and our lives.

The tourism and hospitality sectors have been through turbulent times as the economy and travel behaviour have been severely affected by the crisis. However, what is described by many as a healing shift is currently steering us toward a more sustainable and conscious use of our resources. And these include, above all, our much-valued employees. The luxury hotel industry in particular, is funda mentally personnel-driven, and the promise of excellent service rests solely on our staff’s commitment, enthusiasm and experience.

Well-trained and qualified professionals have become a rare commodity these days. As hoteliers, we are challenged to provide our employees with attractive working environments that motivate them to thrive and perform at their very best. But can new operating time models, home office and part-time work find a place in the hospitality business? I am convinced that we must break new ground here and open ourselves to different forms of cooperation. The quality of service toward our guests is paramount, but how we ensure this certainly needs to be revisited.

Swiss Deluxe Hotels anticipated this devel opment some time ago and has since been working with various partners to explore new models of how professions in our sector can evolve. New work models are required in the kitchen, in service and in management. Along side the most renowned hotel management schools, new solutions and novel approaches are already being advanced at the level of academic instruction, while concepts such as performance recruiting gain more and more importance in the search for suitable personnel. To put theory into practice, we are already working on a pilot project with a partner company to implement some of these essential changes. This involves using ads across social media channels and precise targeting to reach exactly those candidates who could be a perfect fit for a vacant posi tion – a promising approach that is especially aimed at the upcoming generations partaking in our recruitment processes.

As an association of the leading and most exclusive luxury hotels in Switzerland, members of Swiss Deluxe Hotels not only rely on the latest technologies and processes but also benefit from mutual knowledge transfer and construc tive networking within the group. Living tradi tions, therefore, also means actively shaping the future.

21 THOUGHTS

a swiss conquers berlin

In the gourmet restaurant of Berlin’s legendary Adlon Hotel, Reto Brändli still fondly remembers the feeling when he first stood looking though the window out at the Brandenburger Tor. ‘I just thought, wow!’ After packing his bags in St. Moritz and moving to the German capital, the news left Berlin’s gourmet scene in awe. A 31-year-old Swiss chef was to head one of the number one addresses in town, taking over the capital’s restaurant of restaurants, the Lorenz Adlon.

A big task, no doubt, but the young man from Pfäffikon felt well-prepared and ready for the challenge ahead. With two Michelin stars in his pocket and 17 GaultMillau points to boast at Kempinski’s Cà d’Oro in St. Moritz, his CV also lists impressive tenures alongside some of Switzerland’s most celebrated chefs, from Andreas Caminada and Benoît Violier in Criessier to his mentor Rolf Fliegauf. ‘As a young chef, he has taught me how to work with top produce like a ten-kilogram Breton turbot, other wild-caught fish or rare wild birds like snipe.’

B rändli came to Berlin with a readywritten menu in his pocket. From day one, he wowed Adlon regulars with his creations, such as his frozen duck liver ball, which he makes into a surprisingly light dish with Granny Smith apple, tarragon and sour cream, yet void of any the heaviness of more classic foie gras iterations. Another absolute hit was his crispy fried guinea fowl breast, stuffed under the skin with morel and truffle and accompanied by a giblet dim sum.

B rändli’s personal life also developed positively in Germany’s capital, moving into a beautiful flat with his partner in the city’s Mitte district, not far from the Museum of Natural History. In the restaurant’s maître Olivier Kraft, he found a great friend. ‘We would go for after-work beers together on Saturdays and are both big bratwurst fans. We’d go go-karting or play beach volley ball.’ It seems nothing stands on the path of this Swiss chef’s stellar career in the German metropolis and one thing is for sure, Berliners beware, and buckle up for a gourmet rollercoaster ride!

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making an entrance

Hedged by its manicured private park in the very heart of the city, just a stone’s throw away from the crystalline waters of Lake Zurich, the elegant Baur au Lac has been welcoming discerning travellers since 1844. Now in its 7th generation, it is one of the oldest 5-star hotels in the world, still owned and run by the founding family. Its privileged and scenic location, tasteful rooms & suites and award-winning cuisine have delighted refined guests from royalty such as Empress Sissi, silver-screen divas including Audrey Hepburn and many other stellar visitors throughout its illustrious history.

Constant renovations and continuous developments aim to offer guests the cream of the crop of bespoke hospitality. True to Heraclitus’ saying that change is the only constant in life, the hotel’s historic entrance hall has recently been given a face-lift under the auspices of newly appointed hotel director Christian von Rechenberg.

For almost two centuries, Zurich’s seminal grande dame has not only defied the changing times but has con stantly reinvented itself re maining firmly at the very top of the city’s ensemble of 5-star establishments. In 1852 it featured one of the first hotel telegraph offices. As early as 1888, a hydraulic lift was installed, marking the start of a century-long reno vation that would culminate in the completion of today’s elegant reception and lob by areas.

The lobby is designed to feel like the intimate entrance to a maison privée. An eclectic mix of hand-picked antiques, art deco furniture and contemporary pieces come together seamlessly in an ambience of subtle luxury. A new colour palette and custom-made furnishings harmoniously blend with the hotel’s overall décor.

To the owners, it was paramount to preserve the soul of their timehonoured hotel during these latest refurbishments. With that in mind, several existing elements were kept and carefully restored, such as the wooden panelling, the striking Gobelin tapestries now featuring gold frames and inlays in blue velvet, the revolving door, the clock above the entrance to the main salon and of course, the nostalgic boîtes aux lettres. The nostalgic kiosk’s new design has been inspired by a Parisian newspaper stand. It presents a carefully curated selection of bespoke 1844 by Baur au Lac products. Yet another charming element that remains so essential to the hotelʼs distinctive DNA.

Opening up the telephone switchboard room, along with the reception and concierge areas has allowed interior design supremo Pierre Yves Rochon – who also signs Le Hall, the splendid Baur au Lac terrace and the two Michelin-starred Pavillon –to work his magic matching the new look to the overall interiors.

Each year, an average of 10 per cent of the room inventory is entirely renovated and often even completely redesigned, ensuring that rooms are never older than seven years.

Intergenerational at its very core, the Baur au Lac brings together a fine blend of guests in search of the iconic hotel’s unparalleled blend of service and style.

The new uber-brasserie Baur’s in particular, with its colourful and unparagoned décor, has become a prevalent location for the ʻInstagramʼ generation, especially during the fiercely successful Baur’s Brunch.

BAUR AU LAC Talstrasse 1,
Zurich +41
220 50 20 bauraulac.ch
8001
44

THE EXCELLENCE OF TICINO

culinary firework

The firework of flavours that emerges from textures, temperatures, colours, and shapes can not only be enjoyed by gourmets at the Dolder Grand’s two Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant but also in the 384-page book The Restaurant with photos by Fabian Häfeli and texts by David Schnapp.

Whether crab, foie gras, mango, sea greens and vadouvan or celery, basil, woodruff and Campari, Nieder brings together seemingly unmatch able ingredients with dreamlike certainty. His celebrated classics couldn’t be missing in this elegant book with its black cover and silver embossing: the oven-cooked char at 65 degrees with rapeseed and chamomile, or the rabbit tartare with meadow herbs, boiled mushrooms, miso and green tomato. Should following the recipes prove challenging despite detailed instructions, fear not, you know where to find Chef Heiko!

´
I like to let myself be surprised by my own ideas.´

Firmly rooted in Lucerne as its top address and closely woven into the fabric of the city’s heart and soul, the recent refurbishment of this historical building aimed to blend its heritage with modernity and luxury, there by preserving its close connection to the city. Respecting and preserving its core architectural and classical elements, an army of craftsmen dedicated the very best of their trade and talent to the fulminant return of this legacy five-star prop erty. Christian Wildhaber, the hotel’s director, adds: ‘We wanted to preserve the history of the building while freshening up the décor with more contemporary furniture and art pieces.’

While the interiors of the entire hotel have been modernised and brought up-to-date, the spirit of the old Palace lives on. The Salon Alpin at the heart of the Palace re mains as a unique space, rendering homage to its grandeur and original Belle Époque features from 1906.

lakeside beauty

Built back in 1906 and standing proud on Lake Lucerne’s alluring shoreline ever since, the noble landmark property reopens its doors after a comprehensive three-year renovation: Mandarin Oriental Palace, Lucerne in all its splendour and distinction.

Adding gravitas to the issue of sustainability, the use of single-use plastic has been banned alto gether. Throughout the property, LED lighting with motion detectors helps avoid unnecessary electricity consumption. Furthermore, guests travel on regional public trans port free of charge and are invited to use the hotel’s fleet of e-bikes to explore the city at leisure.

Welcoming Mandarin Oriental’s fans from Switzerland and abroad, great importance has been given to its dedicated staff, fostering talents through education and training programmes, event series and open discussion rounds with the hotel’s management, making this not only an appealing but also utterly modern workplace.

Through this meticulously curated blend of tradition and innovation, the new Palace entices guests across generations. With a choice between four different restaurants and bars, a world-class spa and the largest suites in Lucerne, regular guests are welcomed back alongside a new generation of travellers, including Millennials and Gen-Zers, who will immediately feel right at home.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE, LUCERNE Haldenstrasse 10, 6002 Lucerne +41 41 588 18 88

mandarinoriental.com/luzern

sights & sounds

Home to one of Switzerland’s leading orchestras, Zurich’s iconic Tonhalle was inaugurated in 1895 by none other than Johannes Brahms. Following a complete renovation between 2017 and 2021, it now shines bright again, fully restored to its former glory.

Its first incarnation was an improvised concert hall set up in 1867 in the Kornhaus on Sechseläutenplatz. One year later, the Tonhalle Orchestra was founded through the initiative of wealthy Zurich patrons, who attached great importance to regular con certs. In 1895, the Tonhalle as we know it today was inau gurated as part of a more extensive architectural devel opment in the city, including the redesign of today’s General-Guisan-Quai.

Viennese architects Fellner & Helmer, builders of the Zurich Opera House (then the City Theatre), were com missioned for its construc tion. They drew inspiration from the Trocadéro in Paris –although decisive structur al elements such as the two towers no longer exist today.

From an acoustic point of view, the main hall is hailed as one of the finest concert halls in the world. And of course, the Tonhalle’s history is spectacular! There are very few venues in the world where Johannes Brahms conducted the inaugural concert in person.

The Tonhalle Zurich is run by the TonhalleGesellschaft Zürich AG. The City of Zurich’s contribution is crucial for financing, as well as ticket revenues, public and private sponsors, and foundations. The city also financed the major renovation, which took four years and was completed in the summer of 2021. A team led by Artistic Director Ilona Schmiel and Music Director Paavo Järvi is responsible for curating the programme.

The concert-goers come predomi nantly from the city of Zurich and the greater Zurich area. We are proud not to impose a dress code. We want to let the audience enjoy our perfor mances and focus on our world-class orchestra, not on fashion.

Digitalisation has become much more essential for us since the pandemic’s beginning, with streamed concerts and digital editions across our platforms. Increasingly, our programmes are offered in digital format only, we produce podcasts with artists that serve as previews of important concerts, and we are very active on social media. We are currently in the process of further expanding the editorial offer on our website. This expansion work has yielded results: use of our digital channels has increased remarkably. In the 2019/20 season, 425,000 people visited our website, staying on the site for an average of 11 minutes. We reach over 2.2 million people via social media. In both areas, the trend points at continuous growth. Except for subscribers, today’s buy ing behaviour is becoming increas ingly spontaneous. Many tickets are sold in the days immediately before a performance. Many attendees will plan a stay in Zurich at the time of the concert and combine it with a visit to the city.

We are happy to count an average of 180,000 visitors per year.

Following a wide range of family concerts, we founded klubZ for our 18–40 audience. The membership fee is 25 Swiss francs annually. Members can attend any of our concerts for just 20 Swiss francs. Numerous activities are related to the per formances, guided tours behind the scenes, discussions with artists or summer parties with orchestral musicians.

The Tonhalle’s highlight is clearly experiencing the concert in a unique place, with a world-class orchestra and internationally renowned con ductors and soloists. The concerts with our Music Director Paavo Järvi are enormously successful, and the hall is usually almost filled to ca pacity. Musicians offer guided tours, and many of our performances include a introduction in the foyer beforehand or a prolonged evening by one of the artists following the main concert.

Visit tonhallezuerich.ch for the complete 2022/23 programme

TONHALLE ZÜRICH

sound architecture

Specialising in turning brands and spaces into audible experiences, The Music Architect’s founder and creative director, former classical cellist Zoë Burnard, gives us a glimpse into her world of sights and sounds in ten questions.

Which role does music play in the overall experience of a venue? When talking about physical spaces, let’s take a hotel as an example; it is sadly often the case that the music choice is treated as an after-thought, with more priority placed on the scent concept rather than on the sound. We believe that music is as essential as food & beverage, lighting and interior design. A truly immersive experience can only be created when all factors are congruent.

How do you and your team choose the right background music for a new client? Over time we have developed a methodology for selecting the appropriate music at a brand level, considering the brand’s heritage, key values, customer profile and the emotions the client wishes to evoke. We then align the output of this process with specific artists, tracks, and genres until a soundscape emerges that can be considered the brand’s musical DNA.

To what extent can music influence customer behaviour in a specific location? It is widely understood that music affects our emotions. Music can be classified in terms of its genre, timbre, energy, pitch, valency, speed and, of course, volume. Depending on what a client wishes to achieve, outcomes can be subtly influenced by the music played in a location.

What influence does digitalisation have on your work? In the not too distant future, background music will be steered by artifi cial intelligence, using real-time information to automatically direct the sounds to achieve a specific outcome. Many exciting research projects are underway in this area, and we are very much part of this future scenario.

What about sustainability? In terms of background music, a hot topic is still that of licensing. Many companies are still using non-licensed products to play music in public spaces. In such cases, the artists are not being compensated for their work. Ideally, we will soon be in a space where all clients use the appropriate platforms so that artists receive the royalties that are due to them.

Looking back, how did today’s perfor mance come about, and who were the most important sources of inspiration and

impulses for you? I was lucky enough to grow up in a musical environment, and my family has been and continues to be my greatest musical inspiration. My father was a DJ during his university years, playing funk, soul and disco, which I grew up with, spending hours in record shops in London searching for rare vinyls. My mother encouraged me to continue with the cello when it was hard to carry the large instru ment around as a small child, but I persevered and was offered a place at the Royal School of Music in England.

You are still active as a DJ; how do you prepare your sets? I never thought after 20 years that I would still be spinning, but I have more requests now than never, hence why another part of the agency handles live music bookings for DJs and artists. But to be honest, I never prepare anything in advance. I need to see the people before making any music choices about what to play; the set develops naturally through an organic interaction with the crowd.

What do you aim for with your music? Again, this depends on the booking. Sometimes the music is simply there to create an atmos phere; other times, the music takes centre stage, and it’s about creating a party environment for hours on end. I enjoy the mix of events and being able to play different styles according to a particular briefing.

What makes a DJ unique? You would have to ask one of my clients. There is so much involved in being a good DJ, knowing your music, of course, but more importantly, how you interact with the crowd and the energy you give off. I think a good DJ is 100% present and in the moment, accompanying guests on their musical journey.

What are your plans for the future? The future for The Music Architect predominantly lies in expanding into other markets whilst focusing on Switzerland as our core market. There is still a lot of potential for us here. We have just opened an office in London, my home town, where I will be spending more time in the future. In terms of DJing, I will see what the future brings and go where the music takes me –because music is life.

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themusicarchitect.com

scent & sensibility

Family-run since 1921 and one of Bahnhofstrasse’s last remaining landmark houses, Parfümerie Osswald is the undisputed number one address in Zurich for attentively curated fragrances, beauty elixirs and limited-edition lotions and potions.

At the turn of the 19th and 20th centu ries in the then Russian city of Kishinev, today’s capital of Moldova, a hope ful young Boris Dreiding fell in love with the sweet world of perfumes and trained as a pharmacist. In his free time, he fiddled with cream and fra grance formulas and wrote down all the recipes in a small notebook, which he had sewn into his jacket when he decided to seek his fortune in Paris. The beginning of World War I stopped him in his tracks; he was taken prisoner and later found asylum in Switzerland. There, Ernst Osswald, then owner of a grocery shop, employed the young man and subsequently helped him to realise his dream of starting his own cosmetics line. In 1921 Dreiding opened his perfumery on Bahnhofstrasse and named it after his mentor: Osswald.

One hundred years later, Tanja Dreiding Wallace runs the family business in third generation.

The beauty offer is rounded off by an in-house Facial SPA, located on the lower floor, where clients can take a well-deserved break from the pulsating energy of Bahn hofstrasse. MBR medical beauty research® skincare products have recently been added to the offering, catering to those searching for ultimate skin perfection. Trained staff and the highly potent combinations of active ingredients offer outstanding results and pure pleasure for skin and soul.

The location close to Zurich’s busy Paradeplatz attracts business people, shopping enthusiasts and high-end tourists alike, and has long since achieved cult status. Today, Parfümerie Osswald is run by an all-female team and relies on close collaboration between all staff members. The employees impress with their incredible knowledge of the products and the many stories behind the plethora of brands stocked.

On Saturday afternoons, Parfümerie Osswald becomes a veritable magnet for visitors. The boutique fills up with the various scents that blend together to create an unmistakable experience for clients. The scene is reminiscent of Eddy Redmayne in The Danish Girl, in which he, as an androgynous sales associate in the perfume department of a Parisian luxury store, lets the ladies pass quietly under clouds of beautiful fragrances. Today, male and female clients alike, along with a younger clientele, come to the perfumery to discover its wide-ranging assortment of olfactory delights.

Osswald stocks more than 3000 different fragrances. The deci sion process of what scent to pick is left entirely to the client but steadily supported by the attentive staff. Some fall in love im pulsively and are guid ed by their intuition. Others want to wait for their partner’s feed back or let the fra grance sink in first. The demand for niche fragrances has risen sharply in recent years. There is a high demand for signature scents that underline the personality and individuality of the wearer.

PARFÜMERIE OSSWALD Bahnhofstrasse 17,
Zurich +41 44 211 20 30 osswald.ch

think global drink local

Zurich is the most significant wine-growing canton in German-speaking Switzerland. On a small area of over 600 hectares, a wide range of grape varieties is cultivated, and several wines of remarkably high quality are produced. A beginner’s guide to Zurich’s oenological diversity.

The canton of Zurich is divided into five growing areas, covering a total area of over 600 hectares: Lake Zurich, including vineyards in the city of Zurich, Limmattal, Zürcher Unterland, Zürcher Weinland and Winterthurer Weinland.

In Zurich, the Expovina takes place once a year on boats docked at Bürkliplatz. It is the most important wine fair in Switzerland. The wine selec tion for tasting is internation al, but the local products are prominently represented –including the crus from the canton of Zurich.

Red grape varieties account for three-fifths of all vine yards. Pinot noir is by far the most common. In addition, specialities and rarities such as Merlot, Gamaret and so-called fungus-resistant grapes such as Regent are nurtured and cared for. The most important white variety is Riesling-Silvaner (Müller-Thurgau); the most interest ing is Räuschling, which is almost exclusively native to the canton of Zurich. Furthermore, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Sauvignon blanc also produce good results.

© [Corina Rainer] / Unsplash WORDS PETER KELLER

Viticulture in the canton of Zurich is essentially small-scale. Over 170 winegrowers produce wines. The largest include the Staatskellerei Zürich and the Volg wine cellars. Most of the winegrowers come from the canton and continue long-standing family traditions.

In the past, Zurich wines were typed as simple, quaffable country wines destined for immediate enjoyment. This has changed markedly in recent decades. Today, a large number of ambitious estates produce complex, well-structured wines that are full of character and specific to their region.

Today, regional and local products are in vogue. Zurich wines also benefit from this trend. Local promotion or ganisations have created a clever motto worth support ing: Think global, drink local. The philosophy of regionally-grown wines can be summed up in three words: local, independent, and high-quality.

The Swiss drink their own wine – this also applies to Zurich’s wines. A few top drops are also served outside the cantonal borders in upscale restaurants and hotels. However, the quantities produced are too small to export the products abroad. In terms of quality, however, the wines don’t have to hide from the competition.

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ZURICH

zurich delights

Busy and bustling for some, an oasis of calm to others, Zurich is Europe’s archetypical small big-city, headlining a rich cultural agenda, world-class shopping, sundry entertainment, and a quality of life that is second to none.

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TRAVEL GUIDE ZURICH

‘A delicious breakfast bowl is the best way to start your day,’ says Janina Brucker. Her smile reaffirming her words as she sits at Kasa Kaisin with her sister Gioia. Both have demanding jobs; Janina manages the hip eatery Lumière, while Gioia works as a creative at one of the city’s leading communication agencies. Making the most of their free time, they take us on a typical day off through the streets of Zurich.

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10:00

A.M. – GL AMMING UP

Janina went to school with hair stylist Deborah Guye of hair salon En Vogue. ʻIn my view, she’s the best in town,ʼ she says of her childhood friend. Then there’s the location: while you enjoy a relaxing head massage, you can peek at the morning bustle of Bahnhofstrasse.

Bahnhofstrasse 35, 8001 Zurich

T +41 44 211 66 44, envoguecoiffure.com

12:00

P.M. – LADIES WHO LUNCH

ʻWe adore the interiors here,ʼ says Janina, who once worked as an interior designer. It’s no longer an insider tip: if you’re in the mood for a fantastic schnitzel, visit Baur’s at the Baur au Lac hotel. And if you can’t make it for lunch here, you should most definitely stop by for a drink at the bar in the evening.

Talstrasse 1, 8001 Zurich, baurs-zurich.ch

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TRAVEL GUIDE ZURICH
© Baur au Lac

2:00 P.M.

– FLOWER POWER

Janina often visits the old town’s small, colourful, fragrant flower shop Blumen Fitze – either to buy a bouquet for her restaurant or to give someone a present. ʻWhen you enter the shop, you are immersed in a multisensory experience – flowers from all over the world are sold here. This is my favourite florist in town.ʼ

Augustinergasse 20, 8001 Zurich, blumen-fitze.ch

3:30

P.M. – SILK ROAD

The shop full of beautiful things founded by Monique Meier is an emotional place for Gioia. She received her first piece of jewellery here as a child. It put a smile on her face back then, and to this day, her eyes sparkle when looking around this quintessential Zurich address. The owners focus on local craftsmanship, and every piece of jewellery is made in Zurich.

Strehlgasse 26, 8001 Zurich, ensoie.com

4:30

P.M. – CULTURE TRIP

Strolling along the lake and enjoying the wintry, mystical atmosphere by the water, you reach the Pavillon Le Corbusier. An actual work of art that has always fascinated Gioia, who has a penchant for architecture. ʻWith his last work, he created an impressive, timeless building – a true classic.ʼ

Höschgasse, 8008 Zurich, pavillon-le-corbusier.ch

6:00 P.M. – HAPPY HOUR

Such a glorious day needs to be celebrated with an aperitivo. To do so, the sisters visit their favourite brasserie, Bohemia, on Kreuzplatz. ‘We enjoy the New York vibe here and the selection of terrific drinks.ʼ The sisters have another tip: Sunday Brunch. That’s when you meet them here regularly.

Klosbachstrasse 2, 8032 Zurich, bohemia.ch

7:00 P.M. – DINNER TIME

Gioia and Janina agree: Antiquario da Marco is their favourite Italian restaurant in Zurich. Gioia adds, ‘This is where we always meet on Sunday evenings with our entire family, celebrating life, the end of a week and the inevitable beginning of a new one.’ Buon appetito!

Freiestrasse 213, 8032 Zurich

T +41 44 381 46 46, antiquario.ch

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the taste of latin america

When looking for elevated taste experiences, single-origin coffee is as good as it gets. The beans come from a single country and ensure their exquisite taste due to traditional cultivation, harvesting and sustain able processing methods. The coffee flavours can range from sweet to nutty or even fruity notes. In line with this philosophy, Nespresso Professional provides its corporate, catering and hospitality customers with these unique taste adventures through its Origins range. Joining Peru Organic and Congo Organic, coffee lovers are now invited on a journey to Latin America.

T he newly added Brazil Organic is a fine blend of sweet grains and roasted beans. Neither bitter nor sour, it is perfect for those searching for a smoother and milder experi ence. The pure Arabica blend comes partly from the dry savannahs of the Cerrado Mineiro region and partly from the hilly plantations in Brazil’s south-eastern state of Minas Gerais. Joining the Nespresso Professional Origins coffee range is Colombia Organic, which is char acterised by the volcanic soils and the high biodiversity of the Toma lia region. The blend of gentle acid ity and light sweetness gives it its unique balance.

Nespresso has been committed to sustainability for over 30 years to offer the best quality coffee. By obtaining B CorpTM certification in 2022, the Swiss coffee producer joins a community of companies committed to strict social and environmental standards. B Corp is more than just a certification; it is a sustainability movement in which everyone shares the same motto: ʻUsing business as a force for good™ʼ.

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Restaurant Bärengasse

Enjoy a piece of Latin America in the heart of Zurich. The modern brasserie Bärengasse is located directly on Parade platz. The premium wines and prime beef are imported from the restaurant’s own farm, Ojo de Agua, in Argentina. This is the perfect spot to try the new Nespresso Professional Origins coffees from Brazil and Colombia to round off a great meal.

restaurantbaerengasse.ch

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Lady Hamiltonʼs Rooftop Bar

Enjoy the last rays of sunshine of the day or let your thoughts drift off into the distance with a cupof Nespresso Profes sional coffee ranges while enjoying the breathtaking views over Zurich. Lady Hamilton’s Rooftop Bar is ideal for a relaxed aperitif in good company and, of course, some great coffee!

ladyhamilton.ch

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Coffee is much more than just your everyday morning pick-me-up. One cup of selected brews can be enough to transport you to foreign cultures sip by sip – in this case, all the way to Latin America.
GREAT COFFEE TIPS
˚

Q&A

katharina baumann

Born into a family of entrepreneurs in the Seefeld district of Zurich, she garnered work experience at her parents’ kitchen equipment businesses as a young adult. In her own words, she’s stumbled into the hospitality industry almost by accident, heading higher and higher up the ladder. Following professional stints in Ascona and Basel, she eventually landed the job as Head Concierge at the Widder Hotel in Zurich.

What are your top Zurich restaurant recommendations to guests? I tailor my recommendations to the type of cuisine and particular atmosphere guests are looking for, which I assess by asking them lots of ques tions. However my personal favourites are Brasserie Seefeld and Kronenhalle right here in the city centre, and Restaurant Buech in Herrliberg. For drinks, The Widder Bar and Kronenhalle Bar are my top picks.

What would you recommend as the ultimate fun Sunday afternoon activity for a family with young children? A visit to Zurich’s amazing zoo!

And how about for a couple without children? Definitely the Kunsthaus Zürich, the Rietberg Museum or the Fondation Beyeler in Riehen if you have a bit more time to spare.

What’s your favourite store in Zurich? Modestrom on Seefeldstrasse is my favourite for clothing. I also like Thema Selection at Spiegelgasse and my all-time favourite fragrance store has got to be Parfümerie Spitzenhaus at Börsenstrasse 14.

What’s your earliest memory from a hotel? A swimming pool filled with sea water.

Is there a hotelier you particularly look up to? Yes, Peter Bally. He was the director of the Park Hotel Vitznau for three decades.

How would your mother describe you? Always on the go and charming.

What’s your favourite item of clothing in your wardrobe? A Valentino evening gown.

What is a craving you simply can’t resist? A glass of red wine. What was the last thing you repaired? My kitchen waste pipe. What do you wish you could do? I would love to be fluent in Arabic and perhaps one other language.

Is there something you absolutely despise? Oh yes, garlic!

What’s your hidden talent? My patience.

What do you pack in your suitcase without fail? Books! Favourites include Christ Stopped at Eboli by Carlo Levi and Dirt by Bill Buford. And everything by the Diogenes publishing house, of course.

How much power do women have? They have the skills to do it all and that makes them powerful.

If a genie in a bottle could grant you one wish, what would you ask for? Health.

If you could be anyone or anything for a day, who or what would you be? An elephant in Botswana.

What do people appreciate about you? I’m a very positive and sincere person and a good listener who is always happy to help others. Katharina Baumann enjoys cooking for friends in her spare time. She also likes exploring new places and spending time outside in nature.

49 Q & A

Tips for an unforgettable time in Zurich

N O 1 – KUNS THAUS ZÜRICH

The recently opened extension to what is Switzerland’s largest art museum is a work of art in its own right. British architect David Chipperfield created a minimalist, light-flooded building with a distinctive metropolitan appeal. The Kunsthaus extension offers a stage for a wide variety of art events, and displays the world-renowned Emil Bührle Collection.

Heimplatz, 8001 Zurich kunsthaus.ch

N O 2 – GL OBUS

Looking for a nice souvenir of your stay in Zurich? Or sim ply in the mood for a super high-end shopping experience? Then head straight to the recently overhauled Globus department store, Zurich’s answer to Harvey Nichols. Fash ion, accessories, beauty and home décor come together under one roof while knowledgeable gourmands find their Shangri-la at the upscale Globus Delicatessa or one of the two Rooftop Restaurants.

Schweizergasse 11, 8001 Zurich globus.ch

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N O 3 – PATRICK PONETZ FOOTWEAR

A warm welcome awaits at Patrick Ponetz’s charming shoe shop in Zurich’s old town. Lagotto Lady puppy Irma greets customers with a wagging tail and a winsome gaze. Despite the host’s almost irresistible charm, it is impossible not to be drawn to the shelves jam-packed with men’s footwear, from sporty sneakers to chic loafers – some made of kangaroo or horse leather. Upon request, Ponetz offers his clientele a highly-valued bespoke service.

Widdergasse 8, 8001 Zurich ponetz.com

N O 4 – L ABEL 17 STUDIO

In Zurich’s spruced-up Seefeld district, also known as Kreis 8, you’ll find this quaint boutique brimming with beautifully designed products. Cristina McDaniel and David Pfrommer unapologetically focus on craftsmanship. The products are created in close cooperation with hand-picked craftsmen and manufacturers in Morocco and Switzerland. Pop in to find hand-woven, organicallytanned Nappa leather bags or cotton versions embroi dered by artisans from Swiss Alpine valleys.

Brotgasse 3, 8008 Zurich label17.com

51 TRAVEL GUIDE
T R A V E L G U I DE
Z U R I C H TI P S TOP10
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N O 5 – HATECKE

Around town the Hateckes enjoy the title of the cult butchers from the Engadine. In their mountain village of Scuol, they refine high-quality meat into fantastic pro duce. You can almost taste that their animals have spent their lives on a herb-rich Alpine meadow diet. Typically, dried meat specialities can be purchased directly from their boutique-butchery on Usteristrasse, but you would be mad not to take a break at their bistro and treat yourself to a dried meat platter and a crisp glass of white wine.

Usteristrasse 12, 8001 Zurich hatecke.ch

N O 6 – UETLIBER G

Zurich’s local mountain may seem like just a mere hill to Alpine-spoiled Swiss folk, but if a touch of Alpine feel is what you’re after, head up to Uetliberg and take a 40-minute stroll along the Gratweg path to the Fallätsche Teahouse – a small hut akin to those you might find at 3,000 metres above sea level.

The S10 train takes you up to Uetliberg’s mountain station teehuette-fallaetsche.ch

N O 7 – IM VIADUKT

The shop owners of the area under the viaduct arcades of a rail bridge fancy themselves as the city’s most exciting shopping mile in Zurich. While the statement could be disputed, the dozen or so retailers certainly feature a more motley selection of everything from fashion, furnishings and quirky accessories to à la mode casual bars and res taurants. The highlight, however, is its lively market hall.

Viaduktstrasse, 8005 Zurich im-viadukt.ch

TRAVEL GUIDE
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© [Patrick Federi] / Unsplash

N O 8 – L AKE ZURICH

Zurich’s eponymous lake serves as the perfect backdrop for early morning jogs, leisurely strolls along its shores, or picturesque boat trips across its pristine waters. On a clear day, the Glarus Alpine mountain range can be admired on the horizon. During the hot summer months, Lake Zurich becomes the city’s official swimming pool with charming Lidos dotted all around it.

Lake Zurich Navigation Company zsg.ch

N O 9 – B AR AM WASSER

Around two dozen tasty signature cocktails, an expertly curated wine list, delicious nibbles and a cheerful atmos phere: welcome to Bar am Wasser. You’ll find this stylish bar where Lake Zurich flows into the River Limmat. With its worldly and sophisticated airs, you could easily be forgiven for thinking that you’re in London or New York. Cheers!

Stadthausquai 1, 8001 Zurich baramwasser.ch

N O 1 0 – ZOO ZÜRICH

Forget any idea of a conventional zoo as you will be amazed by the near-natural exhibits Zoo Zürich has created for its animal residents in recent years. In the Masoala rainforest exhibit for example, one truly gets the impression of stand ing in the middle of a rainforest. There are also wetland, desert, and mountain landscapes to be explored by visitors, both in large and small scale.

Zurichbergstrasse 221, 8044 Zurich zoo.ch

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JÖRG ARNOLD

What are the greatest expectations of guests who stay with you at the Widder Hotel? Experiences that are unattainable in everyday life. We like to refer to them as moments, aiming to create memorable stays for our guests at every opportunity. For example, a curated bar hopping tour, sunsets with champagne by the lake, a trip onboard our boat across Lake Zurich, cocktails on the rooftop bar of our sister hotel Storchen, mixology sessions with one of our bar chefs in the Widder Bar or VIP admission to the Widder Garage to name but a few!

We have heard that you are now adding the ingredients of this moments formula to your breakfast service … Yes, we are indeed! We are proud to be producing our own honey. We hired a beekeeper and use the roofs of our partner hotels as loca tions for approximately 200 beehives. From there, they fly to the city’s herb gardens or the surrounding meadows while our guests enjoy fresh, locally sourced honey!

We are facing challenging times – how does a 5-star city hotel cope with such

periods of crisis? During crises, the luxury hotel industry is often the first to feel it. But it is also the first to get back on its feet. People who can afford it want to travel and enjoy elevated experiences again.

B usiness travellers, however, stay away in such times ... Today’s city hotels have to broaden their scope, paying increased attention to the leisure market. In times of crisis, business travellers may stay away, and the hotel’s occupancy may drop from one day to the next. But the destination as such remains relevant and can be firmly positioned to attract other guests.

Tell us why Zurich belongs on every self-respecting traveller’s bucket list. We score points for safety, quality of life and cleanliness. Zurich is one of the most attrac tive cities in Europe. The city has top-level offerings catering to all interests. Just think of the new Kunsthaus extension – it’s simply world-class. Then there is the surrounding nature. This density of inspiring offerings in and around the city is unique – you can only find it in Zurich.

5 questions
WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTO NICO SCHAERER

BAR-O-METER

N O 1. DO LDER GRAND – THE CANVAS BAR

The uphill journey is definitely worthwhile. High above the city, patrons can delight in exciting creations in a refined 5-star ambience at the Dolder Grand’s laudable Canvas Bar. From the signature Dolder Negroni to the Grand Khaan Martini – a variant with Mongolian vodka and Pisco – the mixologist’s creations make you dream of your next holiday – or your next cocktail.

thedoldergrand.com

N O 2. WIDDER BAR

For many, the champion among the hotel bars in Zurich. For years, it’s savvy bartenders have repeatedly won renowned competitions, and the cocktail menu reflects their refined skills and talent with a distinctively creative character. The always good-humoured bar manager Wolfgang Mayer has rejuvenated his team while adding some international flair to the mix. An insider tip for summer is the secluded garden in the hotel’s inner court yard designed by star landscaper Enzo Enea.

widderhotel.com

N O 3. B AUR’S AT BAUR AU LAC

Baur’s bar and brasserie brings a tastefully opulent Parisian flair to Zurich. You sink deep into the cosy, heavy armchairs and let yourself be looked after by the fabulously courteous staff. The cocktail menu is well-curated and ranges from well-known highballs and a few clever ʻafter dinnerʼ creations to classics with a twist. Upon request, the team will be more than happy to surprise guests with their own concoctions. Those who enjoy world-class service, like it quiet, sophisticated and dignified, will find their spiritual home here.

baurs-zurich.ch

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Not short of its fair share of bars and cock tail lounges, Zurich boasts a bar for every type of patron. From white glove service to underground grunge and contemporary mix ology, we feature ten of our favourite Zurich watering holes.
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© I believe in Mel Ramos (Bob and Roberta Smith) Photo: The Dolder Grand

N O 4. TALES BAR

Adding a friendly manner to his natural hosting gift, Wolf gang Bogner’s Tales Bar redefines the term ʻhome away from homeʼ through its unique living room bar concept. Hands down the best place to enjoy a fine cocktail after 2 a.m. — the perfect destination for night owls with taste.

tales-bar.ch

N O 7. BAR 63

Despite its proximity to the noisy and lively Langstrasse, you can take it easy at Bar 63. The team around Pascal Kählin knows a thing or two about rum and scores points with their ingenious cocktail creations, from tiki to sophis ticated mezcal drinks, both olfactorily and in terms of design and presentation. Bar 63 is the perfect neighbour hood joint that remains forever young at heart.

bar63.ch

N O 8. GA MPER BAR

This recently opened under-the-radar wine bar under the management of Balz Coray has slowly but surely established itself as a hotspot for great wines and delicate snacks. Between Gamper, its affiliated restaurant, and Lagotto, the in-house delicatessen, it’s a truly wonderful spot to sip all kinds of wines following expert recommen dations – from classic to modern varieties. Here, it’s always wine-o-clock!

gamper-bar.ch

N O 5. KR ONENHALLE BAR

A Zurich institution without equal, this true gem has lost none of its lustre following the retirement of bar legend Peter Roth. Under the management of Christian Heiss and his talented team, it remains as timeless as ever. The cock tail menu has been given a contemporary update, while the original artworks by Picasso, Mirò & company remain a constant highlight. A true institution, the Kronenhalle Bar lives on as one of the city’s most iconic addresses.

kronenhalle.com

N O 6. B AR LUPO

What do an organic wine-loving bar owner, an innovative restaurateur and a globetrotting mixologist with his own bar have in common? The answer is simple: Zurich’s new place to be. In their small but swanky venue Lupo, hosts Claudio, Patrick and Armin celebrate their love of organic wines, homemade Italian delicacies (trying the pasta dishes is a must!) and a creative selection of finely-spun cocktails.

lupo.bar

N O 9. EDEN AU LAC – EDEN BAR

If you need a break from strolling along the shores of Lake Zurich or shopping in the upscale Seefeld district, you can toast to magnificent lake views at the urbane Eden Bar. Whether from the roof terrace during the warmer months or the intimate ground-level bar, it’s the perfect place to linger with an expertly mixed dirty martini in hand. The cocktail menu assembled by Sampatakos has something to suit every palate and includes typical Zurich bar-food favourites such as Wiedikerli hot dogs.

lareserve-zurich.com

N O 1 0. IGNIV BAR

One thing is clear: if Andreas Caminada is behind it, it simply has to be good. But this drinkery is more than merely the bar of Caminada’s Igniv restaurant. Last year it won the Best Newcomer Bar award under the auspices of Philipp Kössl. Putting forward a strong team alongside Sarah Madritsch, one glimpse across the menu, and it remains clear that you won’t stop at just one cocktail; resisting the urges to try your way through their creations is a thing of sheer impossibility.

marktgassehotel.ch

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art safari

© Zurich, Hauser & Wirth. Photo: Diego Alborghetti © Zürich Tourismus

ften portrayed as a somewhat sober city of bankers, brokers and reserved citizens proud of near to stratospheric levels of discretion, Zurich is, in fact, a genuinely spirited Euro pean hub. With its diverse neighbourhoods –from its charming old town to the more aus tere industrial outskirts and the most golden of Gold Coasts – Zurich headlines a thriving culinary scene, a sizzling summer season, street fairs and musical events abound, and, above all, a thriving art scene of international acclaim.

Ab out two decades ago, despite its cos mopolitan charms, Zurich merely served as the arrivals hall for visitors hurrying off to Art Basel, the mother of all art fairs. Fast forward to today, and the city has become a must-stop destination on the internation al art circuit. Events such as the pioneering Art in the Park held in the gardens of the Baur au Lac Hotel for twenty years have paved the way for new prodigious ventures such as Zurich Art Weekend , further expanding the city’s cultural agenda. Kicking off the pre-Art Basel season, Art in the Park has firmly estab lished itself as the official opening event of the season, bringing together a crowd of lo cal and foreign art lovers in the hotel’s mag nificent grounds under the careful curation of its founder, Gigi Kracht. The avid collector, curator and proud matriarch of the familyowned hotel, now run in the seventh genera tion, is a permanent fixture on the local and international art circuits.

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The perfect destination for an urban art safari à pied, Switzerland’s largest city and cultural epicentre beckons art enthusiasts from near and far with its miscellany of world-renowned galleries, public art installations, pop-ups and the country’s largest art museum.
ART TOUR ZURICH
Untitled (Anish Kapoor). Photo: The Dolder Grand

To give credit where credit is due, the idea of hosting exhibitions in the hotel’s gar dens came from none other than Fernando Botero. The Colombian artist known for his voluptuous female figures was a guest at the Baur au Lac when Gigi Kracht invited him for breakfast. Breakfast turned into lunch (almost into dinner), and the rest, as they say, is history.

S o, who better to take us on a leisurely stroll to some key spots on Zurich’s art map than a member of the International Direc tor’s Council of the Guggenheim Museum in New York? The Baur au Lac lends itself as the perfect starting point. Although this year’s 20th-anniversary incarnation of Art in the Park featuring sculptures by French art ist Camille Henrot has just wrapped up, this most sumptuous of hotels hosts an impres sive permanent collection of its own. Coin cidentally, this is also where I first met Gigi over two decades ago. Our first lunch also (almost) turned into dinner, and we would regularly meet for champagne-infused luncheons sitting at her favourite corner table of the hotel’s former Rive Gauche restaurant. Today, striking Martin Brudnizki interiors have entirely transformed the space and Baur’s, as it is now known, features a skil fully assembled selection of art. ‘Over 30 original works by a colourful mixture of artists have been handpicked to adorn these walls,’ Gigi tells me as we reminisce over the old days while sipping on a glass of rosé champagne.

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ART TOUR ZURICH
© Baur au Lac (both pages)

A Louise Bourgeois here, a Rashid John son there and a key photographic work by Annie Leibowitz thrown in for good measure. While guests are delighted by the decided ly contemporary décor and modern vibe of the restaurant and bar, those with a keen eye for art will spot a congruous selection of art treasures surrounding them.

Of course, the legendary hotel’s love af fair with art doesn’t stop there. A showstopping Nicolas Party landscape greets guests in the newly renovated entrance hall. ‘It was specially commissioned for this space,’ Gigi tells me as we embark on our art tour of Zurich.

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Just a stone’s throw away, Hauser & Wirth’s newest branch on Zurich’s prestig ious Bahnhofstrasse is hosting an exhibition of critical late works by Alberto Giacometti and Pablo Picasso when we visit. The everexpanding gallery has not one but three spac es across the city, along with its global head quarters and a much discerning by-appoint ment-only bookshop.

Walking along towards Paradeplatz, we agree on a pitstop at Confiserie Sprüngli and treat ourselves to some traditional Luxem burgerlis before visiting yet another worldrenowned name of the international art scene, Galerie Gmurzynska. The impressive Hadid-designed space currently shows works by Roberto Matta in the city’s beating heart. As we marvel over the Chilean artist’s surre alist masterpieces, we are told of the upcom ing winter programme. It includes an ex hibition titled American Pop Masters and a show dedicated to late artist Otto Piene titled Rouge et Noir in the gallery’s second location on Talstrasse just around the corner.

Cha llenging Gigi’s scepticism concern ing the speed of public transport, we embark on a quick tram journey to Zurich West. With its industrial past, the trendy neighbourhood has long transmuted into a hotspot for con temporary art. Not far from Zurich’s tall est building, the Prime Tower, gallerist Eva Presenhuber features lauded artists from an impressive roster: Doug Aitken, Carroll Dun ham, Liam Gillick, and Ugo Rondinone, to name but just a few. Presenhuber’s interna tional acclaim and gripping exhibitions have rightfully earned her a spot in the top league of global players.

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Installation view, EVA HESSE. Forms & Figures, Hauser & Wirth Zurich, Bahnhofstrasse 1, until 19 November 2022 © The Estate of Eva Hesse. Courtesy Hauser & Wirth. Photo: Jon Etter Kurt Schwitters: Merz. Celebrating 100 years of DADA. Galerie Gmurzynska, Zurich, Paradeplatz 2. Exhibition: 12 June – 30 September, 2016. Exhibition design by Zaha Hadid.

N ext up is a visit to Gregor Staiger’s, where we are lucky to catch the final days of the Nora Turato show. The Cro atian-born, Amsterdam-based artist is one of the shooting stars of the contem porary art scene, following in the foot steps of names such as Nicolas Party. ‘Gre gor has a very sharp eye for up-and-coming artists,’ says Gigi, adding, ‘just look at Par ty’s trajectory!’. Indeed, much like Gigi her self, Gregor Staiger has something of a reputation amongst Zurich’s art cognoscenti as the discoverer of future stars.

A nother of Gigi’s favourites is Peter Kilchmann. With a focus on Latin-Ameri can and Swiss artists, Kilchmann is celebrat ing his gallery’s 30 th anniversary by open ing a permanent space in Paris and a second Zurich-based location on Rämistrasse, yet another nerve centre of notable galleries. Kilchmann entertains a loyal following of collectors, Gigi herself included. ‘I am cur rently in love with works by Zilla Leuteneg ger’. A solo show dedicated to the artist is opening mid-January and will undoubtedly bring Gigi back for another visit.

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Outdoor shot of Galerie Peter Kilchmann, Zurich, Zahnradstrasse 21, Courtesy Galerie Peter Kilchmann, Zurich Portrait of Peter Kilchmann, Courtesy Galerie Peter Kilchmann, Zurich, Photo: Sebastian Schaub
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Kunsthaus Zürich, Chipperfield building, Garden, Photo: Juliet Haller, Amt für Städtebau, Zurich

Projet

Paris; works, © Succession Alberto Giacometti / 2022, ProLitteris, Zurich

On our way to Rämistrasse, we take a lunch break at the iconic Kronenhalle. This bastion of old-world dining serves tradition al Swiss fare while the walls are adorned with works by Picasso, Miró, Chagall, Rodin and others, some of whom have actually dined here. Suitably satisfied and with our batter ies fully recharged, we continue our cultur al pilgrimage to Kunsthaus Zurich, Switzer land’s largest art museum. Along the way, a cluster of galleries has set up shop on Rämistrasse, bordering the city’s old town not far from where the Dada Movement was born.

We swiftly stop by at May 36, yet anoth er high-profile gallery in the vicinity of Kun sthaus, here since 1996. A few steps further along and we reach the eminent Ziegler Gal lery. Founded in 1959, it is an art institution in Zurich and prides itself on being one of the oldest galleries in town, spanning over 60 years. The owners’ artistic intuition guides the programming of emerging and established artists, resulting in a salient mix of exciting discoveries and new perspectives throughout the gallery’s exhibition programme.

Salvador Dalí, Femme à tête de roses, 1935, Kunsthaus Zürich, 1957, © Salvador Dalí, Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí / 2022, ProLitteris, Zurich

I mpossible to miss and mesmerising to look at, Zurich’s latest landmark building, the new wing of the Kunsthaus, comes cour tesy of architect David Chipperfield. The core building, designed by architect Karl Moser in 1910, has seen three extensions by addi tions on its own plot. The structures, which have evolved over decades, represent dif ferent architectural attitudes and exhibi tion concepts while documenting the Kunsthaus’s changing role in the city’s public life. Chipperfield’s design consistently carries this idea forward. It offers space for art from 1960 onwards from its own collection and the Fondation Hubert Looser. The addition of the long-term loan of the remarkable Emil Bührle Collection presents works from the Middle Ages to Early Modern art, with out standing key works of French Impressionist painting at its core. The private collection of Werner and Gabriele Merzbacher sets an in termittent accent as a celebration of colour, while other areas of the museum host the matic and monographic temporary exhibi tions, performative art, installations and au dio-visual works. The current Niki de Saint Phalle show, a wide-ranging retrospective in cluding some 100 pieces, can be visited until early January, followed by Dream Gardens –Giacometti – Dalí in April, set to be a block buster exhibition.

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Brassaï, pour une place, in the studio of Alberto Giacometti, c. 1933, Fondation Giacometti, © Estate Brassaï Succession,

After much legwork, it’s time to wrap up our little art safari, and we decide to take the Dolderbahn up to The Dolder Grand for an aperitivo with views over Zurich. Curated by Galerie Gmurzynska, around 100 works of art are dotted around the grand hotel’s pub lic spaces. From Warhol’s ‘Big Retrospective Painting’ to works by Damien Hirst, Keith Haring and Takashi Murakami – guests can indulge in a veritable treasure hunt with a little help from an iPad guide.

A s we look over Zurich and its glisten ing lake, I ask Gigi about the meeting that started it all. The breakfast with Botero that turned into lunch and almost turned into dinner. ‘ When I write about people, ’ she says, ‘they become friends. That day twen ty years ago, Fernando told me, ‘Gigi, you’re the only one with a space like this in the cen tre of town. You should do something during Art Basel, and I’ll lend you my Fat Lady, ” she remembers. Over the years, George Condo, Robert Indiana, Yves Klein, Allen Jones and many other renowned artists had their works exhibited at Art in the Park. As Zurich con tinues to showcase art across the city – pub lic, private, unexpected but always stimu lating – it comes as no surprise that the art season around Art Basel has been slightly extended, or rather, brought forward, as col lectors and art enthusiasts regularly descend on the city to discover some of its many cul tural highlights. From Gigi’s Art in the Park to Kunsthaus’s blockbuster shows and numerous first-rate exhibitions hosted across Zurich’s colourful mix of galleries, there is enough choice to please every art lover’s heart.

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Peaked cap (Takashi Murakami). Photo: The Dolder Grand The Dolder Grand, main entrance. Photo: Hiepler Brunier
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simply the best

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I swiftly glance at my watch to be sure. Yes, it has indeed been only 38 minutes since I shut off my laptop at home in Zurich’s Seefeld district, and the moment I find myself in now, checking in with the concierge at the Dolder Grand’s SPA. It’s only early afternoon, but I feel I’ve done enough work for today. Admittedly, this renders my spontaneously booked hometown beauty getaway that tiny bit more decadent. I have brought a book along in the hopes of some peace and quiet, but … would you like to join me instead?

69 SPA REVIEW – THE DOLDER GRAND, ZURICH

s a beauty journalist and blogger, I often get asked this unvarying question by friends, followers and readers: ‘What’s your favourite day spa in Switzerland?’. It always feels a bit like cheating when I affirm that for as long as I can remem ber, the Dolder Grand has firmly fea tured at the top of my list. After all, I live a mere two kilometres from the lux uriously lofty five-star property atop the Adlisberg, have taken my kids sledging down the hill right next to it, and when it comes to nonpareil beauty services, calming ambi ence and the utter indulgence of doing nothing at all, the Dolder Spa simply cannot be beaten.

S pread across around 4000 square metres, the award-winning Dolder Grand Spa offers a wealth of well-being choices that leave even the most expert of experts spoiled for choice. As it excels in benchmark ing its services, it does so while unapologetically adher ing to that quintessentially elevated Zurich feeling of quality, boasting elegant architecture and tasteful décor throughout.

In th e nearly 20 years since its overhaul by ac claimed British architect Sir Norman Foster, the spa hasn’t lost an ounce of its original Zen-like, lavish and striking aesthetic. Is it showing off? Not at all. After all, we ‘Zuriquois’ don’t really have to because we rest safe in the knowledge that most of what we do (and what we choose) is always top-notch and in a league of its own.

70 SPA REVIEW – THE DOLDER GRAND, ZURICH

Organic Aroma Massage

Having previously enjoyed various facial treatments here using La Prairie products, this time I opted for a full-body massage that can be individ ually tailored to your needs. Therapist Agnes may be petite, but her hands are strong and incredibly intuitive in finding all the tight spots on my neck and lower back to address and release tensions. After choosing one of the ultra-high-quality organic oils by Swiss brand Amala, I drifted off into beauty Nirvana – and my muscles thanked me for days after.

Ita lian-American SPA design guru Sylvia Sepiellli conceived the actual facilities, expertly weaving her personal experience and mem ories of a decade spent in Japan into Sir Foster’s overall vision. The re sult is a polished oasis of calm and relaxation in which every minor de tail matters. Personally, I love the space’s unique atmosphere and its uncompromising privacy with gen erous glimpses of the natural world around it. It calms me down imme diately and soothes my senses, and I haven’t even used any of the numer ous world-class spa facilities availa ble on the premises yet.

In addition to separate ladie’s and gentlemen’s dedicated spa ar eas, there’s an airy, eclectically de signed Aqua Zone with a 25 -me tre indoor swimming pool, terrace whirlpool, steam bath, and both a mixed sauna area and unique chill out lounge with hanging basket loungers, where you can listen to various calming playlists for ulti mate relaxation.

T he weather was simply gor geous on the hot late-summer af ternoon and evening of my visit.

I spent the hours before and after my massage in one of the 20 treat ment rooms, moving back and forth from my outdoor lounger in the shade to the whirlpool, sau na, and steam room. In between, I sipped on a freshly squeezed orange juice, read a novel and –I’ll be honest here – dozed off mul tiple times while the sun slowly made its evening journey towards a glorious sunset.

Unhurried, supremely relaxed and just on the right side of a gen tly growling stomach soliciting sus tenance at 8:30 p.m., the only deci sion left to make was whether to top off my solo day of relaxation with a dinner-for-one at Saltz res taurant upstairs or to grab my tote bag and opt for a sunset cable car ride back down into town. I decided to give myself a rain check for din ner (my husband has been wanting to come back since our anniversary getaway last September!) and spend the ten minutes waiting for the next Dolderbahn departure sitting on a bench, sighing happily and, oddly, whistling to Tina Turner’s Simply the Best . I wonder why?

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© [Victor Torres] / Stocksy

THE IMAGINARY

ZURICH YACHT CLUB

A welcome refuge from Zurich’s hustle and bustle and the arctic chill outside, I didn’t exactly expect a female DJ when I first checked into the cool, calm and collected La Réserve Eden Au Lac. No big logos or signs announce the imaginary yacht club entirely designed by Philippe Starck. In the designer’s own words, ‘This hotel is like rock ‘n’ rolling with the Queen of England; everything is traditional yet resolutely unconventional.’ I was immediately intrigued to find out more.

73 SEASONAL PICK –
RÉSERVE
LA
EDEN AU LAC, ZURICH

‘Benvenuta!’ calls out the concierge in my mother tongue before I even utter my name at check-in. ‘Since you’ll be writing about our hotel, I have taken the liberty of organising a quick site inspection for you in two hours’ time.’ I was ready to begin immediately, but before I could reply, she smiled and said: ‘Oh no, no, no! First, you must relax and settle into the hotel’s vibe; otherwise, how will you be able to describe it? And after all, there’s life after work. Let’s meet up again a little later.’

Yep, there’s definitively a life here, a welcoming cup of tea, and a soothing bath before work. My spacious Lake View room features a bathroom that appeared sculpted out of a block of naturally striped marble, a sleek bathtub overlooking the turquoise lake and the sky, exposed red bricks contrasting with a matt metal lic radiator, and elegant tan leather details reminiscent of a transatlantic luxury liner stateroom fit for a movie. I almost forgot I only had two hours.

Surrendering to my curious mind, I found myself exploring some quirky objects dotted around the room, trying to guess what they were. A peppermill on the bedside table? Upon closer inspection, it turned out to be an international adaptor. A glossy metal elephant at tached to a plate? Possibly a jewellery holder.

After some tea and a bath, it was showtime. As I join my guide downstairs, I am greeted with some insider knowledge: ‘Welcome to SoBe! Did you know that the South of Bellevue is the place to be? It’s the Soho of Zurich!’ Then he pressed a hidden button and an invisible door opened into the Cigar Lounge. ‘Every single piece you’ll find here is custom-made.’ Even a self-confessed health freak like myself couldn’t help but be fascinated by this hid den gem of a smoking room, designed using a clever mix of a variety of metals and woods and decorated with ‘70s images of sensual lips and swirling smoke.

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EVERYTHING CUSTOM-MADE WELCOME TO ‘SOBE’!

PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE

As we head to the top floor, I find the hotel’s pièce de résistance: a majestic century-old dome with wooden objects hanging from it, thick ropes, nautical lamps and wooden panelling fea turing an open kitchen – a veritable treasure chest. Outside, a 360-degree panoramic view of the city, the lake and the Alps beyond.

Following a sneak peek into the sleek wood-panelled gym and into what is probably the chicest public lavatory in town (featuring mirrors that make you appear ten years younger and an ambience that feels less like a restroom and more like a catwalk), we head down stairs to find Ilona, one of the Angels of La Réserve Zurich, one of three resident DJs spinning a contemporary mix of deep and subdued electronic tracks. A few steps further, I was briefly introduced to Chef Marco Ortolani – a larger-than-life personality with a stellar career path and who just earned a Michelin star. I would get to know better later – until I could finally sit down to enjoy a drink.

DELICIOUS DINNER

Following an inspiring art-fuelled afternoon, I was looking forward to dinner at the Eden Kitchen and Bar, headed by Chef Marco and his uber-cool crew. The food is fantastic, but you could almost be forgiven for getting dis tracted from the culinary delights by the good-looking, chatty, tattoo-sporting staff interacting in a highly choreographed and in teractive manner in the boldly coloured open kitchen. As I enjoyed my meal, taking it all in, Chef Marco took time to check if everything was alright. ‘Who does the shopping?’ I asked. ‘I do, twice a week right after the gym, on the bus 32 and then onward by bike! – How do you like the risotto?’ he replied, switching the con versation back to my meal. After assuring him that I was positively impressed, I asked about his background. Before joining La Réserve, he had worked at the Armani restaurant in Milano, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester in London, and Andana in Tuscany. He had received many offers to work in Paris and other well-known restaurants, but visiting the so-called Soho of Zurich finally convinced him to move here.

As the evening drew to a close, it was time for bed. I was delighted to collapse on the soft bed and its luxurious linens, but before surrendering to a good night’s sleep, I opened the French win dows for a moment and admired the lake, with its water jet and the stars shining above.

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STARS SHINING ABOVE

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RUNNER’S TIPS

Zurich offers beautiful trails and runs along the lake, through the old town or near by forests for any level. Our favourite locations include:

The highest point in Zurich, Uetliberg, with its spectacular views. Go to the central train station car park and either run up and back or take the train up and run downhill if you are looking for easy training.

The promenade along Lake Zurich is fantastic for its scenic views by the water front and to observe the Alps rising proudly behind the western shore. Numerous landmarks such as the Chinese Gardens, the Obser vation Deck in Tiefenbrunnen, the Opera House and several marinas will make this route quite lively.

The Dolder forest paths, in the idyllic natural surround ings of the Adlisberg. Far from everyday life, this area also offers breathtaking views over the city, the lake and the Alps – and you can have a well-deserved snack at the legendary Dolder Grand after your run.

The Green Marathon Zurich is a clearly signed running trail that extends for a total of 42 km (full marathon) through the centre of Zurich and the city’s most beautiful areas. It can be tackled in individual sections and will allow you to run and do some sightseeing simultaneously.

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WORDS

the art of hosting

wilhelm luxem

WORDS MARTIN HOCH PHOTOS NICO SCHAERER

For a decade, Wilhelm Luxem left his mark on Zurich’s world-class Baur au Lac hotel. A people’s person by heart, his love of host ing and graceful manners will be remem bered by many and missed by most. We pay the seasoned General Manager a visit to reveal the secret of his success.

‘I was lucky,’ says Wilhelm Lux em, the recently retired Gener al Manager of Zurich’s iconic Baur au Lac hotel. But when someone who started his career as a chef, worked in all four corners of the globe via Mauri tius, Australia and back to Eu rope, ending as the director of one of Switzerland’s most re nowned luxury hotels, we can all agree that it involved more than just mere luck.

Meeting the charismatic character at one of his favour ite vineyards, Erich Meier, in Utikon am See near Zurich, we wanted to dig deeper to discover the secrets of such an illustri ous career. ‘Adventure, experi encing new things, travelling –that has always appealed to me,’ says Luxem, immediately adding that this doesn’t exclu sively apply to his personal life. ‘You should also be courageous in your professional life and try out new things. Stay curious every day. Because in every day professional life, there is often not only one solution to challenges, or even only one solution in general. If you are curious and listen carefully to others, you can find other, often more exciting solutions than your original one.’

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THE VIEW

As the former GM of such a landmark property, it is strik ing to admire his modest de meanour as he walks around the vineyards. When I point this out, he says: ‘You shouldn’t take yourself too seriously.’ He never imagined that his profession al path would lead him there. ‘Part of the esteem in which you are held depends on the role you perform.’ Some in the hospitality industry would do well to internalise this humility and pure pleasure in service. ‘Practical things, like how to cook or serve, can be learned, but the attitude of service is in the personality.’ Wise words he has stuck to throughout his entire career. Although he may attribute it to sheer luck, it shows his attitude toward the great art of high-end hospital ity, singling him out as a true connoisseur.

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´I STARTED MY PROFESSIONAL CAREER AS A COOK. I JUST WANTED TO BE A CHEF. IT WASN’T THAT AT 20 YEARS OF AGE, I THOUGHT I WANTED TO BE THE GENERAL MANAGER OF THE BAUR AU LAC.´

And what follows now, af ter the life of a distinguished hotel director? With a content smile on his face and a glass of crisp white wine in one hand, he says: ‘I will miss my work. But there will be no months of mourning because I’m look ing forward to the next chap ter.’ And riveting adventures certainly await someone like Wilhelm Luxem – we wish him plenty of wind in his sails along the way.

´IN LIFE, IT IS LIKE IN THE VINE YARD. SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO MUSTER THE COURAGE TO CUT BACK HARD SO THAT SOMETHING NEW CAN GROW.´
82 THE UNIQUE LUXURY MAGAZIN E. ®
GUARANT
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EED

THE RAINBOW’S END

Dior

Ambre Nuit from Dior’s Collection Privée is my absolute favourite for the wintry season. Decidedly oriental in essence you will find everything you ever wanted in a rich, warm sensual fragrance. – dior.com

When I arrived in Zurich one sunny spring morning in 1979 and looked down the famous Bahnhofstrasse, with its glimmering lake and stunning vista to the snow-capped Alps beyond, I never dreamed that one day I’d be offering advice on where to go, what to get and how to make the most of this beauti ful city.

Whether you’re off to a night at the opera, a hike up the Uetliberg, a shopping tour of Züriwest, or sim ply strolling along the lake, the treasure trove that is Zurich offers a wealth of desirable objects, of attractions and possi bilities non plus ultra – the choice is vast and the shop ping, legendary! If there were ever a place of plenty at the end of the rain bow, Zurich is that pot of gold.

We’re here to give you a nudge in the right direction …

Tiny Factory

Just a spoon full of the The Tiny Factory’s Bio Granola and you’ll be as happy as the proverbial lark. Handmade and roasted in Zurich, by a team of eight awesome ladies with that most essential of ingredients, love!

– thetinyfactory.ch

All about bread

It’s all about the bread … The ageold tradition of baking bread has become one of the most popular and pleasurable trends of our time. Zurich authors and avid foodies, Heike Grein and Sasa Noël, have captured this phenomenon and compiled a beautifully illustrated book on the art of baking bread, offering mouthwatering recipes and personal stories from professional bakers themselves. More than a bite!

– at-verlag.ch

Kronenhalle

No visit to Zurich is complete without a visit to the legendary Kronenhalle restaurant, an institution in itself. Anyone who is anyone has at some point passed through these hallowed halls including the likes of Yves St Laurent, Coco Chanel, Marc Chagall, Federico Fellini, James Joyce, Friedrich Dürrenmatt. Artworks by Bonnard, Cézanne, Miró and Picasso, to name but a few, adorn the walls while traditional Zürichgeschnetzeltes and Rösti are standard fare the likes of which are hard to better anywhere in town.

– kronenhalle.ch

WhistlePig

The Zürcher is known to appreciate quality in all its different facets and is particularly fastidious when it comes to those wee imported luxuries of life. This WhistlePig rye whisky is no exception. After a decade of ageing, WhistlePig 10 is bottled at 100-proof and has that oaky finish that lasts and lasts. Nightcap anyone? – whistlepigwhiskey.com

83 CLIFFORD’S MUST-HAVES
WORDS CLIFFORD LILLEY

Elementary

Soeder is a brand that has taken Zurich by storm since 2013. Timeless design and the best quality ingredients, recyclable materials and environmentally friendly practices are key elements contributing to their ongoing success.

– soeder.ch

Maurice Lacroix

The Swiss watch manufacturer Maurice Lacroix never fails to come up with a watch that is instantly desirable like this particular piece from the limit ed edition of the PONTOS Day Date. Urban chic, style and practicality, for him and for her. Up to date was never so timely!

– mauricelacroix.com

Schwarzenbach

Time seems to have stood still in this beautiful grocery store in the heart of Zurich’s old town, the Niederdorf, dating back to 1864. Schwarzenbach is to this day, Zurich’s number 1 place to go for all lovers of special wares – from coffee beans and tea leaves to dried fruit and nuts, choc olate, sugar & spice, and all things nice! With its very own coffee shop next door. – schwarzenbach.ch

Pen of the year

This luxury fountain pen derives its name from the Aztecs, renowned for their mythological and religious traditions, as well as their architectural accomplishments.

– graf-von-faber-castell.ch

Paperback crime

Kobler, born in 1982 in Locarno, has set her latest crime novel Tiefes, dunkles Blau in and around Zurich featuring the lake side policewoman Rosa Zambrano and providing an insider guide to the city and surroundings.

The book is currently available in German and will hopefully be available in English in the not too distant future. Kobler wrote the book in a garden studio in Zurich’s old town where she lives with her family. Volume 2 of the Zu rich crime series will be released in 2023. – diogenes.ch

Retoʼs

Downtown Zurich’s most prestigious tailor for madeto-measure suiting, bespoke shirting, handmade shoes, and Western boots. Stylish, and classy with an exclusive selection of fine fabrics and countless customisation options. The perfect fit –Reto’s just a cut above the rest!

– retos.ch

Alea Mediterre

Mediterre Ultra Premium, extra-virgin olive oil. 100% organic, Greek Koroneiki olives, hand-picked and pressed in their own mill. Very interesting and balanced on the palate, a blend of tomato and white flowers in combination with scents of exotic fruits and a hint of almond. – globus.ch

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Maison Mollerus

Swiss label Maison Mollerus is known for its elegant and luxurious high-quality handbags, small leather goods, luggage and accessories. The creations bear the names of villages, towns, rivers, or mountains in Switzerland. Rather fittingly, the brand’s flagship store is located in the pretty lakeside village of Erlenbach. – mollerus.com

See & Be Seen

Elevate your outfit with these super-cool retro frames and get the look of the season. The latest from their house brand Twenty Two and available in a wide choice of colours. Burri Optik in Zurich sports an exceptionally highend selection of fashionable glasses and sunglasses.

– burrioptik.ch

In good taste

In an ever-changing world, the timeless, unique, and utterly desirable jewellery of Beatrice Rossi is a steadfast benchmark of quality, sustainability, and sheer good taste. View these exquisite creations, to delight and bewitch the most discerning eye, in Rossi’s beautiful atelier shop on Zurich’s prestigious Storchengasse. – beatricerossi.ch

Pure Living

With its flagship store in Zurich, Pure Living is a leader in the world of interior decorating with an international clientele reaching far beyond its Swiss borders. When it comes to designer Finn Juhl’s fascination for surrealism, it is clearly visible in the Pelican Chair

Out of all his many designs, it was probably the one furthest ahead of its time. And the one we would most like to have in our chalet this winter!

– pureliving.ch

Hermès

Hermès comes in first with these stunning skis from their brand new collection. Fun, colourful and quirky the skis were developed with a French manufacturer, blending the very best of performance and versatility. The downhill skis are perfect for all skill levels, whereas the all-mountain skis meet the needs of more experienced skiers. These skis are made of hightech materials around a structure in glulam ash.

– hermes.com

enSoie

Beginning as a silk-trading company in 1894, enSoie enjoys a well-earned reputation for high-quality design and traditional production. Their scarves and ceramics, jewellery and clothing are extremely cool and stylish. As Swiss as the flowing Limmat, the quality and beauty of their creations stand testimony to their success and desirability. The shop is situated in an old townhouse dating from the 14th century on the famous Strehlgasse. – ensoie.com

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CLIFFORD’S MUST-HAVES
86

highlights culinary

Surrender to a serene mood, be in awe and let your palate be surprised by true miracles of flavour. Cooking is an art form, and eating is its most enriching experience.

87

between pots and pans

Chef Maximilian Müller loves horseradish and Japanese knives, dreams of owning a Porsche and admires Austrian chef Eckardt Witzigmann. At home, he often treats himself to a shot or two of Maggi seasoning sauce.

88

When asked about his childhood hero, Maximilian Müller barely hesitates: ‘I’ve always admired Eck ardt Witzigmann,’ says the 30-yearold. ‘For his ability to create as straightforward as multi-faceted dishes, and for the influence he has had on generations of chefs.’ Be sides Witzigmann, however, two other characters have influenced Müller. His father, whose cook ing he meticulously observed as a young boy, and long-time Pavillon chef Laurent Eperon, who gave him the job of sous-chef seven years ago. ‘I was just 23 at the time, and after an exceedingly stressful job on the island of Sylt, I had taken a break from the fine-dining circus not long before Laurent presented me with this great opportunity,’ Müller re calls. ‘He was a strict boss – but also one who always set a good exam ple. Above all, he is a great person, smart, skilled and empathetic.’

And what will happen at Pavillon after Eperon’s departure from the Baur au Lac in November after more than a quarter of a century? ‘There will be no break. We have created the upcoming menu together,’ says Müller, who steps up as head chef of the renowned restaurant lauded with two Michelin stars and 18 Gault Millau points. Furthermore, the long-time companions speak a clear and somewhat similar culinary language. ‘Last but not least, Laurent and I share a soft spot for butter. So Beurre Blanc will remain one of the pillars of the kitchen at Pavillon,’ Müller adds.

89 CHEF ’ S PORTRAIT – BAUR AU LAC, ZURICH

PIMENT D’ESPELETTE AGAIN AND AGAIN

The same goes for the use of spic es. ‘They are a culinary playground for me. I must have a few hundred of them at home. Piment d’Espelette, a fruity-sweet, slightly smoky and relatively mild chilli variety from the French Basque country, makes practically every dish a little better. I also experiment passionately with special curry mixtures. For exam ple, Durban curry-based chilli, co riander, curry leaves, cumin, carda mom, Ceylon cinnamon, fenugreek, ginger and cloves. I don’t mind a lit tle flight of fancy when it comes to spices.’ And then there’s one flavour Müller can't resist. ‘I have a bottle of Maggi seasoning sauce at home. Guilty pleasure or not, Maggi tastes good to me.’

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THE POWER OF BEING GROUNDED

When Müller won the renowned marmite youngster competition five years ago with his creation Arc tic char – footed crayfish – greaves, he described his culinary philos ophy as follows: ‘Classic, peas ant-like but refined, not overload ed, reduced and simple.’ That has changed in the meantime, he says and laughs. ‘In a restaurant like Pa villon, whose guests regularly sa vour the most exclusive dishes at the best addresses worldwide, you can hardly serve peasant-like cuisine.’ However, Müller will undoubted ly incorporate some of the products that lend the more grounded dishes their magic into his menus as part of Pavillon’s gentle reorientation. ‘I love horseradish very much, for example. And I am convinced that an unexpected, down-to-earth ele ment makes guests with an exten sive international background par ticularly happy,’ he says. ‘A product can be a bit simpler as long as the implementation meets the demands of haute cuisine.’

91 CHEF ’ S PORTRAIT – BAUR AU LAC, ZURICH

Sounds a lot like Hans Haas, who was part of Eckardt Witzigmann’s brigade at Munich’s Tantris back in the 1970s, and later shaped the iconic restaurant’s cuisine for al most three decades. ‘I like this loose ness and focus on taste that Haas has always stood for. My intern ship with him is one of the most im pressive experiences I’ve had as a chef to date,’ explains Müller, for whom Tantris was ‘one of the best restaurants in the world’ during Haas’ time. ‘When I arrived in Munich, apricots were in season – and the entire kitchen was covered with the sweet fruit. We were ordered to cover all surfaces with plastic foil before preparing the famous apri cot jam Haas distributed to special guests.’

HIS GREAT-GRANDMOTHER WAS FERDINAND PORSCHE’S SECRETARY

The longer you talk to Maximilian Müller, the more you notice: the master chef prefers to talk about others rather than himself. He for mulated his professional goal, three Michelin stars, years ago. So why make big speeches when you can let actions speak louder than words? At the keyword ‘Porsche’, how ever, Müller spontaneously rants and raves. ‘My own 911, that’s a big dream,’ he says. ‘I’m not only a Swa bian but also the great-grandson of the personal secretary of the com pany’s founder, Ferdinand Porsche.

One could say that the love for fast cars from Stuttgart-Zuffenhausen runs through my veins.’ Müller re ceived a very special gift from for mer top chef Wolfgang Kuchler –he made the Taverne zum Schäfli in Wigoltingen a fixed star in Swiss gourmet heaven – for his 30th birth day: a Porsche trip to the Engadine, including an accompanying culinary programme. ‘Unfortunately, I haven’t had the chance to redeem the gift yet, but I’m really looking forward to the trip with Wolfgang, who also comes from Swabia and is one of the chefs I’ve always looked up to,’ explains the sixth-generation innkeeper’s son. Until things work out with the Porsche (‘My favour ite would be a 911 GT3 RS’), Müller will continue to indulge in his third passion. ‘I probably own over a hun dred kitchen knives by now. Many more than can actually fit in the big gest drawer in my kitchen,’ he says with a laugh. ‘I’m particularly fond of the forging art of Japanese cui sine, which is craftsmanship at the very highest level, quite comparable to what ambitious chefs aspire to. I brought fifteen knives back from my trip to Tokyo, a veritable buying frenzy.’

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Beau-Rivage Palace –Lausanne © Grégoire Gardette

Bürkliplatz Market Bürkliplatz

Just a stone’s throw from the Baur au Lac, this quaint square trans forms into the city’s most beautiful market twice a week on Tuesdays and Fridays. I love strolling from one stall to the next and always stop by André and Astrid Suter’s stall, number 36. Their stone-baked bread with a crack ling crust is to die for!

– zuercher-maerkte.ch

Restaurant Blume

Winterthurerstrasse 534

Lisa Mierau and Alain Behrens have transformed this local pub in Schwamendingen into a little paradise for fans of down-toearth cuisine. Lisa, who has also worked at Pavillon, is a master of her craft, sourcing her goods from the very best producers. Whether homemade tortellini, saddle of venison, Appenzeller Ribelmais poulard or tripe with white wine sauce and hash browns, all dishes come with a healthy dose of love.

– blume.restaurant

CHEF’S FAVOURITES

Bar am Wasser Stadthausquai 1

My absolute favourite place for an after-work beer, a gin and tonic or a skilfully prepared Negroni. The bar is stylish and chic but also lively and relaxed. I particularly love that they serve Tegernsee beer here. The best spots are on the stools along the bar, where you have front-row seats to watch Dirk Hany and his team mixing the cocktails.

– baramwasser.ch

Barfüsser Sushi Bar & Lounge

Zürichstrasse 4, Adliswil

Alfred

von

Escher –Artisan en Comestibles

Erligatterweg 8

The primarily residential neigh bourhood of Wollishofen is home to a veritable culinary institution in Zurich. The code word ERW8 stands for one of the city’s most in spiring culinary hotspots. Alfred von Escher’s Comestibles business caters to top gastronomes and discerning private households. The exquisite offering includes ma tured wildfowl and other delica cies, but the show’s true star is the man himself – a terrific raconteur. Countless of my regular visits have turned into hours of riveting con versation, and I sincerely hope I’m not getting on his nerves just yet.

– alfredvonescher.ch

Globus Delicatessa

Schweizergasse 11

A great place to shop. Here you can find just about anything your gourmet heart desires, from nashi pears to terrines and pâtés to Balik salmon. Add to that the lovely presentation of the products, et voilà!

– globus.ch

An offshoot of central Zurich’s famed sushi bar, Adliswil now features its own iteration where I often order the Chef’s Choice platter that allows the kitchen team to be creative and surprise me with something new. The Spicy Fish Soup is highly recommended – a miso soup seasoned with chilli and roasted sesame seeds with avocado and raw fish cubes added to the broth just before serving.

– barfuesser.ch

Rosi Sihlfeldstrasse 89

Markus Stöckle, who has worked with Heston Blumenthal at the 3-star Fat Duck restaurant, cele brates a modern and incredibly imaginative version of Bavarian cuisine at the cosy Rosi Restaurant just behind Lochergut. One of his classics is the so-called potato hybrid, a fluffy dumpling of which crispy Pommes Alumettes seem to grow out.

– rosi.restaurant

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switzerland’s culinary talent foundry

‘Time-honoured’ is a word of ten associated with Zurich’s tradi tional Baur au Lac hotel. But that is only half the truth. Hardly any other top-end hotel in Switzerland has so consistently and successful ly committed itself to the promo tion of young talent as this legend ary house founded in 1844. A most recent example is 23-year-old Mir co Kristal. At this year’s marmite youngster, the country’s most in fluential young talent contest, the Demi-Chef de Partie at Pavillon as serted himself against best-in-class competitors, some up to six years his senior, following in the foot steps of Chef Maximilian Müller, who had won the Kitchen category five years earlier.

For Kristal, Baur au Lac’s Pavil lon represented a veritable dream destination following a stint at Dar io Cadonau in the Engadine region. ‘Maximilian Müller and his prede cessor Laurent Eperon stand for a kitchen philosophy that I find my self very much drawn to. Culinary craftsmanship is of paramount im portance at Pavillon . You learn everything you need to know about classic French cuisine here, but that’s by no means all,’ explains the young man whose ambitions include running a Michelin-starred restaurant with his brother Nicola in ten years’ time. He is particularly fasci nated by the virtuoso use of spices and herbs, which create an elegant and exotic magic over the French base, like the Carabinero with its tit illatingly spicy but never overbear ing Durban curry and Shiso.

‘Ingredients not many chefs think of come to good use at Pavillon’s kitchen,’ explains Kristal. ‘For ex ample, it would never have occurred to me to refine a sauce with eucalyp tus. But that’s exactly what we did for our autumn menu. And lo and behold: the essential oils of euca lyptus lend unexpected freshness and elegance to the Beurre Blanc, accompanying the roasted sea bass with razor clams and smoked stur geon. Such a broadening of hori zons is incredibly valuable for a young chef like me. Furthermore, I work with the very best produce available here and learn exactly what to look for in the future.’

Off ering expertise, awarding confidence and fostering talent through challenge are the three pil lars of this most refined of talent foundries. Here, success is by no means limited to the kitchen. Ange lika Grundler, who won the debut of the Sommellerie competition at the marmite youngster awards last year, is also part of the Pavillon team. The 30-year-old, who recently became a mother for the first time, benefits from working with two outstand ing heroes of her guild: on the one hand, restaurant manager Aurélien Blanc, voted number one in the country by the Swiss Sommelier As sociation in 2018, and on the other, Marc Almert, the 2019 World Som melier Champion.

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Pi errick Sarrot, the freshly crowned marmite-youngster winner in the Service category and current restaurant supervisor at Zurich’s Ho tel Storchen since September 2021, still raves about his time at Pavillon. And of his then chef Aurélien Blanc, who also persuaded him to partici pate in the renowned competition: ‘Monsieur Blanc is a role model for me. He embodies outstanding host ing skills, is attentive, conveys pro fessional excellence and is a great conversationalist.’

Since 2011, Switzerland’s fore most culinary magazine marmite has honoured extraordinary talents in Swiss gastronomy through its marmite-youngster award. The in dustry-leading accolade is present ed in four categories: Cuisine, Pâtis serie, Sommellerie and Service.

marmite-youngster.ch

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© tyromediagroup.com

heart beet

Hardly any tuber is hipper than beetroot. It has become the favourite vegetable of high-end gastronomy the world over. It has emancipated itself and left traditional forms of preparation firmly in the past. The beetroot is proof of how creative, complex and diverse a vegetable can be, and how it can be transformed into entirely unfamiliar textures and surprising and exciting flavour profiles.

It is sometimes used as a cocoa-like powder, refreshing frozen pearls, or sweet and sour condiment. Strongly reduced, it unfolds a lot of umami as an intense vegan jus. Fermented, it can be a component of a sauce or a non-alcoholic drink. The trend toward vegetable charcuterie is equally exciting. Beetroot is fermented with koji, refined with spices and then slowly matured in the air, in a process similar to dried meat.

T he sweet, earthy-tasting beetroot with its fleshy texture can also be cooked in a very archaic way. Cooking it directly in the embers unveils wonderfully hearty, smoky aromas. It is particularly gentle and juicy when cooked in the oven, wrapped in a coat of salt. It tastes just as good raw or pickled.

Acidity is perfect for balancing sweetness. Aceto Tradizionale , for example, gives it a mysterious elegance. The combination with blood oranges is almost congenial. In summer, it refreshes when sliced thinly as a carpaccio, with natural yoghurt and mint or as a colourful hummus with chickpeas and tahini. In winter, it is grandiose in soups or risotto. There are red, white and yellow beetroots. And last but very certainly not least, is the queen from the Veneto: the red and white curled Chioggia beetroot. It is so tender and finely aromatic that it is best eaten raw because its typical flamboyant rings, unfortunately, disappear when cooked. With such versatility, it is no wonder foodies are left with their hearts literally ‘beeting’ higher.

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TRUE TASTE – PRIMAL VEGETABLES
WORDS & PHOTO CLAUDIO DEL

five great zurich wines

Zurich is the largest Swiss city – with vineyards. At the beginning of the 20th century, there were 400 hectares of vineyards across what is now the city. Today there are still 14 hectares planted with all kinds of varieties. Of course, there used to be many more. Overbuilding and the emergence of phylloxera led to this marked loss. Fortunately, Zurich successfully saved a small part of its vineyards from extinction.

From an oenological point of view, the city belongs to the geographic cultivation area of Lake Zurich. In addition to the beau tifully situated vineyards on the shores of this idyllic lake, there are other wine-producing regions throughout the canton of Zurich: Zür cher Weinland, Limmattal, Zürcher Unterland and Winterthurer Weinland. For a long time, the wines from this German-speaking part of Switzerland had a dubious reputation. The wines produced were thin, ready-to-drink and not very expressive. Today, most wines still present themselves as uncomplicated, easily accessible – gentle, charming every body’s darlings. But that is only half the truth.

L ike everywhere across Switzerland, a movement has become active in the canton of Zurich, striving for authentic, high-quality wines with a strong character. A young

generation of winegrowers is convinced that only quality products stand a chance on the market compared to internationally pro duced (more affordable) wines. Their motto is ecology, sustainability and craftsmanship –instead of technology.

Zurich is serious about Blauburgunder, as Pinot noir is often called here. At the top of the quality hierarchy are the wineries Bes son-Strasser from Uhwiesen (see wine tips) and Pircher from the Zürcher Weinland. Among the whites, in addition to the popular Riesling-Silvaner, the canton has one of the most exciting specialities of all, the Räuschling. This variety is cultivated almost exclusively in Zurich. The trendsetter for this grape is the Schwarzenbach winery in Meilen, whose Räuschling Seehalden has considerable ripening potential and is represented in the Mémoire des Vins Suisses association. This treasure trove of Swiss wine contains around 60 crus that can age for at least ten years or more. In addition to the three varieties mentioned, the wineries passionately nurture a considerable number of other types. It is exciting to witness them bringing these largely hidden treasures to the surface.

100 WINE CELLAR

The Classic

BESSON-STRASSER WINERY, UHWIESEN –––– 2020

The biodynamically produced Pinot noir represents the top quality in the canton and, indeed, in Switzerland. The vines are over 50 years old. The wine matures in barrels. The result is an authentic, aromatically complex, finessed, lasting wine that finds itself in a class of its own.

CHF 38 | wein.ch

The Extrovert

PLURAL

WEINGUT ERICH MEIER, UETIKON –––– 2018

This speciality from Lake Zurich consists mainly of the Diolinoir variety, bred in 1970, refined with a little Pinot noir. Its characteristics make it a successful wine: intense purple, fruity-spicy bouquet, full body, and soft tannins.

CHF 34 | bauraulacvins.ch

The Hardy

ZÜRI PRIOR

CITY OF ZURICH –––– 2021

Prior is a so-called Piwi variety, a fungus-resistant new breed that requires little spraying.

The winemaker of the city of Zurich, Karin Schär, presses a fresh, light red wine with little tannin from it, which is best served slightly chilled. By 2027, the entire Chillesteig vineyard will be converted to Piwi grapes.

CHF 19.50 | stadt-zuerich.ch

The Local

RÄUSCHLING SEEHALDEN

WEINBAU SCHWARZENBACH, MEILEN –––– 2021

This high-quality white variety grows almost exclusively on Lake Zurich. From this single vineyard, the top winery produces a dry, long-lived, compact, robust and yet elegant Räuschling with cult potential.

CHF 27 | schwarzenbach-weinbau.ch

The Immigrant

RIESLING

PIRCHER WINERY, EGLISAU –––– 2021

Riesling is one of the greatest white wine varieties in the world and is hardly found in Switzerland.

The renowned winery from the Zürcher Weinland, however, succeeds in making a wine that is typical of the variety: dry with a barely perceptible residual sweetness, light, crisp, juicy, and elegant.

CHF 25 | weingut-pircher.ch

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professional cool

Transformed into an exclusive Krug pop-up bar for a second year running, the terrace of the Dolder Grand is arguably one of the best vantage points to admire the awe-inspiring panoramic vistas over Zurich. The perfect place to catch up with Lisa Bader, Head Sommelier at the Dolder and GaultMillau Sommelier of the Year 2021.

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© [Helen Rushbrook] / Stocksy

Ms Bader, we’re having a Krug Grande Cuvée, 170 ème Edition. What does it bring to mind? What I particularly like about this Krug is the timid character of this champagne, which is also evident in this edition based on the 2014 vintage. Its aromatic depth paired with intense minerality, freshness and complexity makes it a perfect food companion but also an exciting soloist.

T he Swiss business maga zine Bilanz named you Somme lier of the Year in 2018; now, this prestigious award from GaultMillau in 2021. What do these awards mean to you? Natu rally, I’m very flattered. But what sets the GaultMillau Sommelier of the Year apart is that they follow your progress over several years. It’s not just about technical exper tise and specialist knowledge but also about working with diners. It is, of course, a great honour and an incentive to become even better in the future.

What has been your most memorable wine experience? I can think of two: a 1986 Chateau Talbot, a gift from my then director

when I passed my sommelier exam. It thrilled me with its elegance and perfect balance. Also, a 1945 Château Lafite, which a diner ordered in The Restaurant. He very generously invited the team to taste. This is one of the most outstanding wines of the 20th century – even as a sommelier at the Dolder Grand, it’s not every day that you have the privilege of having something like this in your glass. A sip of liquid history of this magnitude still gives me goosebumps.

Few Swiss restaurants place more emphasis on wine pairing than at The Restaurant (2 Michelin Stars, 19 GaultMillau points). Is it true that you taste several dozen wines together with Chef Heiko Nieder to find the ideal pairing? Yes, we deliberately make an effort that is probably unique in Swit zerland. We sometimes uncork 7 or 8 bottles for each course until Heiko and I are satisfied. We want to propose something truly excep tional to our diners. It doesn’t necessarily have to be a big name, although l often like to include a Burgundy Grand Cru in the pairing.

What makes a perfect wine pairing, in your opinion? Is it about harmony between food and wine, or does the secret lie in more exciting contrasts? Contrast and harmony are two sides of the same coin. If you try to achieve perfect harmony across all courses, the experience can be monotonous. If, on the other hand, the pairings are highly demanding or too rich in contrast, it can have the oppo site effect; it can completely over whelm the palate. That’s why we always include one or two sparkling wines in the paring, which makes you receptive to new impressions. In essence, it’s all about finding the perfect balance.

What if you and Heiko Nieder can’t agree on the right wine pairing for a dish? Who has the final word? We always try to find common ground, but if we can’t, I have the last word on wine, just as Heiko has the final word in the kitchen.

You are not only responsible for the wine list of the fine dining restaurant but for all food and beverage outlets at the Dolder Grand. How do you select the wines that are served by the glass? I have to be aware of what’s trending internationally and locally here in Zurich because we have many local customers. Furthermore, it has to fit everyone’s budget while still being exciting. In other words, wines should offer diners the char acteristics of a grape variety or the vineyard region, but should also have added value, so that a diner might say, ‘I’ve never tasted a Sauvignon Blanc like this before; it’s so good!’

I n a recent interview with the NZZ newspaper, you said that Greek wines particularly fascinate you at the moment. And we discovered a spontane ously fermented Assyrtiko from 80-year-old vines from Santorini on your menu – a somewhat idio syncratic wine. Where does your fascination for such niche winegrowing regions that receive little international attention come from? Precisely that! They are often underestimated. Greek wines are the perfect example of this. Everyone thinks of Retsina headaches, but there are fantastic wines from autochthonous grape varieties in Greece that can easily compete inter nationally and offer excellent value for money. That makes them particu larly interesting, as I also have to pay attention to the commercial side.

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PORTRAIT SOMMELIÈRE

ZURICH ROCKS!

With its riveting mix of trendy venues and innovative world-class restaurants, Switzerland’s gastronomic capital has firmly established itself on the map of culinary destinations for well-travelled gourmets and lovers of sundry cuisine.

D
G O URM E T T O UR
E L U XE
© Baur’s at Baur au Lac

LA RÉSERVE EDEN AU LAC

Zurich’s current gastronomic renais sance is evident everywhere – from the chic environs of its central ar tery, the Bahnhofstrasse, to the for merly disreputable districts 4 and 5, all the way to the city’s quaint old town. A veritable front row seat to unparalleled Lake Zurich views is La Muña atop La Réserve Eden au Lac. None other than French design icon Philippe Starck has given this for merly traditional hotel a makeover of epic proportions, catapulting it to the 21st century with wit and esprit.

The spectacular roof terrace with views of the lake and mountains has become a popular meeting place for those in the know. Serving PeruvianJapanese fare in trendy Nikkei style, the freshness and outstanding qual ity of the produce is impressive across the board. Highlights include the exceptionally marbled and ultraflavoured O’Toro tuna belly sashimi and the grilled langoustine in a tomato-based salmorejo sauce. Chef Marco Ortolani scores high with his celebrated gyozas filled with chicken and truffle or creamy, spicy salmon tartare with heaty jalapeño and the crunch of fried rice.

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© Grégoire Gardette / La Réserve
© Maud Devaud / La
Réserve

WIDDER HOTEL

Behind the charmed façades of re stored old townhouses on Rennweg, one of Zurich’s hottest chefs cooks up a storm at the Widder Hotel’s gourmet restaurant consisting of two atmospheric and historic spaces in which old-town charm mixes perfectly with modern-day design. Stefan Heilemann’s cuisine is char acterised by a contemporary blend of classic cuisine with the skilful addition of Asian accents. A per fect example is the belly of Balfegó tuna creamed with cauliflower and couscous surrounded by fra grant Thai salsa with mint and coriander. Heilemann’s sauces have addictive potential, especially the sherry escabeche he serves with the seafood trinity of monkfish, pulpo and rare bear crab. ‘Zurich is a city with a very varied culinary cul ture,’ is how the native German describes his adopted home. A city that offers committed chefs many opportunities.

106 GOURMET TOUR DELUXE ZURICH

And finally, our culinary stroll leads us high above the city to the Dolder Grand, the modern incarnation of this formerly traditional hotel rede signed by Sir Norman Foster. Here, Heiko Nieder’s cooking in the purely called The Restaurant is simply world-class. The characteristic of the Hamburg-born chef is not only his surprising combinations of aro mas that merge with pure flavours on the plate, but also a delicate in terplay of nuanced acidities. He is not shy to play with elements not often seen in fine dining establish ments, such as coleslaw juice used to lift steamed hake with bacon and green peperoni with a multilayered spiciness up to perfection. Seemingly folksy spare ribs are served at this noblest of restau rants – not in mundane BBQ-style, of course – but elaborately pickled, steamed, deep-fried and glazed; this is how this sublimation of Iberico pork, topped with crunchy lettuce, flavoured with wasabi and sesame, accompanied by an incredibly dense miso egg yolk sauce is brought to the table. For all intents and purposes, a true feast for all senses!

THE DOLDER GRAND

BAUR AU LAC

Just a few hundred meters down Bahnhofstrasse amongst the digni fied ambience of the Baur au Lac ho tel, Maximilian Müller carries on a kindred cooking style discerned as a long-time deputy of chef Laurent Eperon, who departs the reputable address after 26 years. He plates vis ually enticing and aromatically so phisticated creations served in the light-flooded violet and grey tones of Pavillon, evoking an almost fes tive atmosphere with its floor-toceiling windows and opulent flow er arrangements. Uncompromising quality of produce and mastery con tinues to be expected and is delivered aptly, for example in the form of the magnificent grilled langoustine mar inated with harissa and served in an elderflower vinaigrette with pars ley oil. A celebrated street food in its country of origin, a zestful side dish of Indian-inspired panipuri presents a suitably elegant iteration filled with sautéed langoustine, green pa paya and celery. Almost a house-clas sic are ultra-tender Swiss sweet breads, crisply fried, adorned with a brioche gyro with Sauce Gribiche, finely presented on a bed of chante relles seasoned with Vin Jaune. Wine recommendations come courtesy of none other than current world cham pion sommelier Marc Almert.

© Baur au Lac
SACHI AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GENEVA Quai Turrettini 1, 1201 Geneva +41 22 909 00 00 sachi@mohg.com

counter culture

With the opening of SACHI, Mandarin Oriental Geneva’s latest culinary foray brings a refined spurt of Japanese fare to the banks of the river Rhône in the form of authentic Omakase-style dining.

Under the auspices of Chef Mitsuru Tsukada or Chef Mitsu, as he is known around town, SACHI joins the apex of high-end Japanese eateries in Geneva this autumn. Trained by master Nobu Matsuhisa in Kumamoto, Japan, Chef Mitsu invites diners to enjoy a most unique culinary experience. In addi tion to table seating with menus featuring exquisite contemporary Japanese signa ture dishes, the new venue offers patrons a standout live cooking experience along an intimate 10 -seater counter in the fine style of Omakase, where guests can choose one of three menus featuring six, eight or ten dishes prepared at Chef Mitsu’s discretion.

In Jap anese, sachi signifies happiness , blessing and fortune – the perfect sentiment to welcome those embarking on this distinc tively personal gastronomic journey. Believed to have its origins in the Japanese culinary art of Kaiseki, the discerning Omakasestyle dining works like a chef-guided tasting

menu. Literally meaning I leave it to your care, Omakase is a vote of confidence between the guest and the chef – the word itself stemming from the verb makaseru, which means to trust. De signed to evoke the perception of sophisticated intimacy, a Martini Bar hosts guests along a unique blue onyx marble top serving small bites. Traditional Japanese kumiko-style woodwork in a shippo pattern hung from the stainless-steel ceiling has been paired by architect-designer Yoshi Kida with a classic oak latticework called koshi, further lending a feeling of comfort and privacy to the elegant space. Outside, set on a serene Zen Garden terrace, diners can enjoy the vibrancy of the idyllic urban setting on the Rhône’s waterside.

Having surfaced among the sushi genre with assured vigour, Omakase has become an integral part of Japan’s culinary tradition and will undoubtedly delight those lucky enough to secure a seat at the counter!

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excellence pursuit of

We join forces with our partners to set new standards in the Swiss world of luxury hospitality. We are constantly raising the bar when it comes to innovation, sustainability, digitalisation and the very thing we do best of all – deluxe indulgence.

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suite talk

The Widder Hotel is a fascinating amalgamation of townhouses from the 15th century spread across nine medi eval buildings in the centre of Zurich’s old town. These structures have been skilfully combined to create space for 48 distinctive rooms and one excep tional Penthouse Suite.

T he building’s 1995 opening came after ten years of work by Swiss archi tect Tilla Theus. The massive project involved an army of more than 1000 architects, builders, and designers. One of the most distinctive luxury boutique hotels in Europe, if not the entire globe, was created by effec tively combining all the structures.

To connect the numerous houses, Theus constructed bridges and inte rior corridors. Chrome, steel, and glass go well with the antique stone walls and beams. She gave each unit a name and decorated it with wood and stone in a particular way. The outcome is a successful blending of history, art, and design. Each of the hotel’s rooms and suites has been individually furnished, contrasting the 700-year history of the buildings with Memphis design from the 1990s, pop art accents, and design classics.

On the hotel’s top floor, the striking Penthouse Suite occupies two stories with charmed views over Zurich’s rooftop landscape. The main floor features a master bedroom with candid views through small windows, a wellstocked bar, and a stylishly furnished living room in oak with minimal white

furnishings and a small dining space.

The interior décor of this suite of suites strongly emphasises art and design.

One of the hotel’s original visitors, Rauschenberg, claimed to have enjoyed it so much that he produced a site-spe cific piece still on display in the Pent house Suite today. This suite strikes a sophisticated balance between impos sibilities, rendering it a triumphant blend of art and design. Thoughtful details, cutting-edge facilities, and stunning interiors push the enve lope while still paying homage to the 100 -year-old architectural elements that reflect the hotel’s rich history.

Guests of this suite enjoy what is likely to be one of the most extraordi nary rooftop terraces in the city, one floor up through a narrow stairway. The roomy private patio is furnished with sun loungers and a seating area surrounded by casual greenery. The building, which is reputed to be the tallest in Zurich’s old town, offers breathtaking 360-degree views of the entire city.

T he Widder is not only amazing to look at but also full of surprises and an epicentre of social life among Zurich’s hotspots, so anyone looking for a healthy dose of meeting and greeting won’t be let down. Along with its upscale eatery, it also houses AuGust, a haven for carnivores, the recently renovated inner court for light lunches serving as a true haven of peace during the warmer months, and of course, the Widder Bar, a Zurich institution.

Three reasons to leave the suite:

1.

HAUTE CUISINE

Dine at the renowned Widder Restaurant, helmed by chef Stefan Heilemann, who was just named GaultMillau Chef of the Year 2021. Heilemann has developed his very own culinary style over his career, basing it on the principles of classic cuisine and adding impressions gained while travelling. While Heile mann expertly runs the kitchen, Stefano Petta ensures the front-of-house experience is on par.

2.

URBAN PICNIC

During the warmer months, you can experience Zurich with the Widder’s Wild or Urban Picnics. Enjoy idyllic spots across the city, or have the team take you out to more remote natural surroundings, to the shores of Lake Zurich or the meadows close to Buech. Treat yourself to a wide selection of specially prepared delicacies from the hotel’s own farms, enjoy some quality wines and relax.

3. CITY ROMANCE

Feeling romantic? Ask the concierge to book a special moment à deux on the rooftop of the Widder’s sister Hotel Storchen or zip across Lake Zurich on the hotel’s own boat to immerse yourself on a culinary journey on the jetty in front of the swanky Alex Hotel with unobstructed views of Zurich’s skyline.

SUITE TALK – WIDDER HOTEL, ZURICH
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INFORMATION widderhotel.com

and oskar goes to …

… st. moritz

Is my dog psychic? When it comes to food, indisputably. When I begin to think about what to make for din ner, he’ll be by the fridge, drooling in anticipation. If a piece of sausage falls 100 metres away, there he’ll be before it even hits the floor. He may have a sausage-detecting radar pre viously undiscovered to science. Even in total darkness, he’ll hone in with military precision and accu racy, perfunctorily examining it for edibility before downing it at once.

Oskar’s sense of taste and smell is unbeatable, especially when food is involved, but his vision is less so. If I say, ‘go fetch the red ball!’ he understands ‘fetch’ and ‘ball’, but he may retrieve a blue or yel low ball instead. I wondered if he might be colour-blind or perceive the world only in black and white. Scientists at the University of Cal ifornia provided the answer with the Colour Vision in the Dog study. Dogs do see colour but perceive it differently from humans. Our four-legged friends’ vision is simi lar to that of people with red-green deficiency (beware of pedestrian crossing lights!).

A colourful evening with fondue, fun and friends in the company of a colour-blind Labrador: despite this apparent contradiction, we spend a delightful time at the ultra-stylish Carlton Hotel in St. Moritz.

115 OSKAR – CARLTON HOTEL, ST. MORITZ

Dogs mainly recognise colours in the yellow and blue range while missing the receptors for green. This turned out to be a real shame as our suite at the snazzy Carlton Hotel in St. Moritz was entirely decorated in shades of green. Tici no-based interior designer Carlo Rampazzi’s makeover of the hotel is a veritable explosion of colours ranging from discreet to serious ly opulent, from delicate shades of pink to vivid tsunamis of purple. One can only imagine how Oskar experiences this, as an acid trip, a blue-yellow mist, or not at all, perhaps mere figments of his imagi nation (or mine).

T he dog himself is glossy black and sports a dashing red collar. He has no eye for the nuances of the décor. Still, his attention is immedi ately captured by the browns of the chocolates, the pastels of the mac arons and the purple, orange (and even green) contents of the wel come fruit basket. He sniffed with eyes half-closed in ecstasy before attempting to taste them. As I deftly

placed temptation out of reach, he was already switching his attention to his next object of desire: a bright pink fabric hippo. It didn’t seem to be about the colour but the earsplitting squeak when bitten. Fortu nately, all rooms at the Carlton are entirely soundproof.

T he suite’s emerald curtains framed a vast, gleaming-white expanse: Lake St. Moritz was frozen solid. Racehorses, walkers and skaters completed laps on lev elled tracks. All 60 Carlton suites face south. An imposing mountain range rises behind the lake, and high on the Corviglia, a gondola lift gently floats towards the summit.

Gue sts can directly access the town from the hotel. Just beyond the bobsleigh track is the ice stadium of the St. Moritz Skating Club, where the 1928 and 1948 Winter Olympics were held. Oskar is not interested in the pirouettes of the ice skaters, preferring to sniff the walls of snow on the side of the road instead.

OSKAR – CARLTON HOTEL, ST. MORITZ

Back at the hotel after our lei surely stroll, Oskar and I visit the Bel Etage, delighted to discover a Coldplay classic being played on the grand piano next to a roaring fire. The magnificent hall is the heart of the hotel, a place to kick back, read, see and be seen. Guests lounge on huge leather sofas, the weathered wooden floorboards creak with the passage of bustling waiters, and the golden rays of the afternoon sun shine through the huge panoramic windows. Oskar thoroughly ap proves of his surroundings, espe cially when he notices the teatime trays of sandwiches, scones, cakes, and biscuits served elegantly on the coffee tables. Dogs are allowed in the Bel Etage, but the teatime treats are exclusively reserved for its two-legged guests.

O skar is greeted by Sam, an Australian Labradoodle with a funloving glint in his eyes. He belongs to Michael and Stephanie Lehnort, the directors of the Carlton. Dogs are not simply tolerated at the Carl ton; they are genuinely welcome. At Christmas, the more erudite canine guests receive dog biscuits inscribed with ‘Merry Christmas’ and for dog birthdays they have specially baked treats to mark their big day. When guests arrive accompanied by a dog, the rooms are fitted with cosy dog baskets, blankets, bowls, toys and treats. When Oskar decides it’s time to slip into something a little more comfortable, a grey and turquoise dog bathrobe has been thoughtfully laid out for him. Naturally, it’s a perfect fit. While he enjoyed the comfort, once more, he couldn’t care less about the colours.

117

Built in 1911 in the classic grand hotel style, the Carlton first opened its doors in 1913. One of the hotel’s former owners started rumouring that the house had been originally built as a summer residence for Rus sian Tsar Nicholas II, a scion of the famous Romanov dynasty, a clever marketing ploy to attract an East ern European clientele. When the hotel was redesigned in 2008, designer Carlo Rampazzi revisit ed the theme, scattering the Romanovs’ double-headed eagle emblems throughout the property. Comrade Oskar makes his sentiments about Tsarist politics very clear, distribut ing a salvo of wet paw prints all over the hotel to significant effect.

Sam and Oskar become firm friends. On a walk to the frozen Lej da Staz mountain lake, they play together through the snow so deep and fluffy that only the cloud of powdered snow kicked up by their paws reveals their whereabouts.

T he area surrounding the hotel is a dog owners’ dream: there are kilometres of groomed winter hiking and cross-country ski trails where dogs are allowed. On one of these, Oskar demonstrates his strength as

a pulling machine: after a few false starts, he pulls his dog dad five kilo metres through the snowy, sunny Upper Engadine, working off some of his many dog treats. He’s having the time of his life. I'm just grateful he invited me along.

In a memorable colourful event (memorable, to me, that is, proba bly wasted on Oskar), he is allowed to sit in the fondue gondola with my self and Enno, the photographer of the dogs on these pages. The shiny silver gondola cable car stands in front of the hotel entrance, with fes tive illuminations, generously lined with cosy colourful cushions and warm furs. This delightfully deca dent setting is perfect for enjoying Switzerland’s famed national dish, cheese fondue. Our waitress arrives bearing crusty warm bread and melt ing cheese to cap it all. With a smile in his direction, she slips him a tasty little titbit, a piece of his favourite sausage. I have never seen Oskar so happy. For Oskar, after such a perfect stay, that came – pardon the pun – completely out of the blue.

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CIRCLE OF PROGRESS

Promoting a high-calibre exchange of ideas around current topics of relevance across several sectors, a new event plat form created by Swiss Deluxe Hotels and partners Audi Switzerland and Prestige Magazine introduces a high-profile stage for impact-generating issues.

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Around the central theme of transformation, the first such event has taken place in attendance of a small circle of entrepreneurs, visionaries, and in tellectuals at Basel’s legendary Les Trois Rois Hotel. An experienced line-up of inspiring personalities has come together to launch this impact-driven talk series, kicking off the Circle of Progress series with a discussion on major transforma tional challenges top-tier brands and their respective environments face today. Speakers included Dr Michael Trautmann, management consultant and co-founder of the advertising agency thjnk, who has researched the future of work for many years; Ralph Hollmig, res ponsible for Audi’s innovative char ging hub ; and former skier Tina Weirather. Providing equally im portant food for thought, host and General Manager of Les Trois Rois Hotel, Philippe D. Clarinval, spoke about the current changes faced by the tourism industry and the future of luxury travel.

RAISON D’ÊTRE AND HYBRID MODELS AROUND THE FUTURE OF WORK

A former management consultant, global CMO at Audi and co-foun der of Zurich-based agency thjnk, Dr Michael Trautmann has ex tensively followed developments around the future of work and its ensuing communication strategies within the scope of his entrepre neurial endeavours. Focusing pri marily on younger generations, the Hamburg native explained: ‘I know quite a few younger people who consistently achieve a lot, but on very different terms than those we were once prepared to accept.’

Another important key point of his speech included the concept of Home Office . ‘The main challenge we face today is to accept that hy brid work models are feasible. The recent pandemic has shown us that working remotely works. Particu

larly in regards to meetings, an as pect that is likely to remain in a hybrid format now and in the future, it is paramount to involve all par ticipants without discrimination’. However, Trautmann is convin ced that the office is here to stay, as some creative processes, sponta neous innovations and topics where emotions are involved demand phy sical collaboration on location. ‘By the end of the Second World War, there was an ageing building at Boston’s Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), the so-called Building 20 , which was supposed to be demolished. However, due to a lack of space, it was used to house staffers and academics from vari ous faculties who kept running into each. Today, it is one of the most ci ted examples of innovation as a pre cursor to the idea of co-working spaces so popular today,’ he says. ‘Building 20 is where the first video game was invented and where the foundations of high-speed photo graphy, the use of microwaves and computer hacking were laid,’ Traut mann continues.

FROM VEHICLE MANUFACTURER TO ECOSYSTEM PROVIDER

The second speaker at this first edi tion of Circle of Progress has been at Audi for 25 years and currently heads the carmaker’s charging hub project. For Ralph Hollmig, a higher level of quality is paramount. As the automotive industry un dergoes the greatest transforma tion in its history, he affirms: ‘We have to evolve from a vehicle manufacturer to a mobility and ecosys tem provider with an undisputable customer-centric focus. An important part of this new ecosystem is a sustainable fast-charging inf rastructure – particularly in ur ban areas.’ Fast-charging facilities with a correspondingly high char ging capacity, such as those found at motorway service stations and charging points, hardly exist in ur ban areas. This is precisely where

Audi’s charging hub comes into play: a modern mixture of charging station and lounge space intended to offer solutions for peak demand in the future while transforming the actual activity of charging a vehicle into time well spent for its customer base.

Fir st assessments and feed back from the project’s pilot in Nuremberg have been highly positive, and this November has seen the opening of the world’s se cond charging hub in Zurich. With the help of Second-Life batteries, there is no need for an elabora te or expensive infrastructure with high-voltage lines and transfor mers, as relatively low demands are placed on local power grids for the electricity required. Audi’s charging hub is thus able to introduce a sus tainable, fast-charging infrastruc ture via its own battery storage system to areas where power grids cannot provide sufficient capacity.

PERSONAL TRANSFORMATION: CREATING NEW PASSIONS

Last but certainly not least, following valuable insights, former skier Tina Weirather rounded up the evening with her own account of personal transformation from top athlete to media specialist, presen ter and social media expert. For 15 years, the Lichtenstein-born athlete ranked amongst the world’s top 15 skiers until announcing her retire ment two and a half years ago. ‘Fol lowing an initial sense of euphoria immediately after my retirement came a feeling of void,’ says Wei rather. ‘I have concluded that pas sionate activities don’t automatical ly present themselves to me, but it is also possible for me to aspire to or create new ones.’ While still na vigating through her personal transformative process, she has le arned to consciously experience and steer it. ‘I allocate more time to think about things and make all important decisions while being in nature.’

121 CIRCLE OF PROGRESS

Magic Moments at Unique PlaceS

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PARTNERS OF SWISS TOP EVENTS:

swiss top events

Magic moments at unique places

© Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

all events

15 – 18 June 2023

ART BASEL

30 June – 15 July 2023

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL

The New York Times dubbed it the Art Olympics, Vogue called it ‘the most beautiful temporary museum in the world’, and Le Monde simply hailed it as ‘the best in the world’. Art Basel, the premier international art show, attracts and inspires art lovers from across the globe year after year. artbasel.com

The Festival is famous for its unique heritage and legendary concerts. With its intimate ambience and renowned hospitality, it offers a unique experience for artists and public alike. montreuxjazzfestival.com

13 – 15 January 2023

FIS SKI WORLD CUP LAUBER HORN WENGEN

In January 2023 the 93rd International Lauber horn Races will be held in Wengen in the beautiful Bernese Oberland. The world’s best Alpine skiers will compete in the Super-G on Friday, on the legendary Lauberhorn slope on Saturday, and in the Slalom on Sunday.

lauberhorn.ch

OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS CRANS-MONTANA

CALENDER AND DATES

You can find further information and details at swisstopevents.ch

The Omega European Masters, which takes places in Crans-Montana (VS), has been offering its 50,000 spectators magical moments in a breathtaking Alpine environment ever since 1939. Professional golfers from all over the world come to compete in the most stunning setting of the DP World Tour schedule. omegaeuropeanmasters.com

31 August – 03 September 2023
SWISS TOP EVENTS
© Montreux Jazz Festival 2019 © Emilien Itim © Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

18 – 20 November 2022

31 March – 2 April 2023

18 – 21 May 2023 8 August – 10 September 2023

LUCERNE FESTIVAL

30 – 31 August 2023

WELTKLASSE ZÜRICH

Lucerne Festival ranks among the leading international presenters of classical music, offering various festivals throughout the year. The main festival, which takes place in summer, showcases the world’s most-renowned symphony orches tras, conductors, and soloists, as well as contemporary music. The other festivals include Lucerne Festival Forward in November, which is focused on contemporary music, the Spring Festival, and the piano festival curated by pianist Igor Levit. Together with the Summer Festival, they attract classical music fans from all over the world. lucernefestival.ch

Hosting the best athletes from Switzerland, Europe, and the World, Weltklasse Zürich once again com bines breathtaking perfor mances of track and field heroes with the magical atmosphere at Letzigrund Stadium. In addition, one discipline will be chosen to represent the sport event at Zurich main station. weltklassezuerich.ch

2 – 12 August 2023

LOCARNO FILM FESTIVAL

5, 12, 19 February 2023

WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ

Every summer since 1946 the Locarno Film Festival has brought the world’s most innovative cinema to the shores of Lake Mag giore. Thanks to its free spirit, the Festival has become an incubator of ideas and new projects, with educational and cultural activities organised throughout the year. locarnofestival.ch

The fascination for the world’s only horse race on a frozen lake has remained for generations. Featuring traditional skijoring, flat, trot and pony races, White Turf St. Moritz attracts VIPs from around the globe, locals and betting enthusiasts alike. whiteturf.ch

SWISS TOP EVENTS
© Marcus Gyger, Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

WHAT GOES UP MUST COME DOWN

A 41 ° gradient, an altitude difference of 1028 metres, top speeds of around 160 km/h and many key sections. At 4.48 kilometres, the Lauberhorn downhill track in Wengen is not only the longest race in the Alpine Ski World Cup but also one of the most demanding. Whoever wins here is considered one of the greats – and must be able to endure. To show just how trying the world-renowned track is, Bernhard Russi took TV viewers on a virtual Lauberhorn downhill run back in 1986 and challenged them to stay in the same position as the athlete raced downhill on screen for as long as possible. A formidable challenge, but nothing compared to what the racers really achieve in Wengen. Two and a half minutes in the crouch position make the racers’ thighs burn. Just think of the centri fugal forces, the impacts and the mirror-smooth ice on the piste. This is the challenge of challenges.

After just under half a minute of skiing, the aces crack the 130 km/h

mark for the first time in the traverse shot. Following the panoramic curve of the Eiger, Mönch and Jung frau in the background comes the most spectacular part, the Hund schopf. ‘Everything demanded of a downhill skier comes into play in the narrowest of spaces. The curves in front are narrower than usual, with less than five metres between the rocks on the left and the safety net on the right, and the edge of the jump is anyone’s guess,’ is how Russi, Olympic down hill champion in Sapporo in 1972, describes the spot. No sooner have the skiers passed the edge than they plunge into the seemingly bottom less pit. They drop 15 metres in one fell swoop. Then the Minsch ledge awaits, where Swiss Josef Minsch suffered a pelvic fracture in 1965. The difficulty here: you approach the passage with a left-hand movement but have to leave it with a right-hand turn. This requires changing the inside ski on the jump edge, a highly technical move.

127
SWISS TOP EVENTS – LAUBERHORN DOWNHILL RUN
To succeed on the Lauberhorn downhill run, you need courage, strength, technique, and be able to keep a cool head. Follow us on a virtual ride down Switzerland’s most famous slope!

Around 10,000 of the more than 30,000 on-site fans position them selves on the Girmschbiel hill near the Wengernalp railway station. From there, lookers-on can appre ciate the best view of the Hund schopf, the Minsch edge and the infamous Canadian Corner. In 1976, Canadians Dave Irwin and Ken Read literally flew off the slope in the long, steep right-hand bend on the left. Grit your teeth and cling to the slope is the motto at this point –after a good minute of skiing.

W hen the clock approaches the 1:14 minute mark, the skiers turn into the ‘craziest chicane in the World Cup’ (Bernhard Russi) at about 100 km/h: the Kernen-S. They will have to take the slope if they don’t reduce their speed enough. If they reduce too little, they risk a painful fall; if they brake too hard, they lose the race on the following gliding sections. The most techni cally tricky Lauberhorn downhill passage is named after the former world-class racer Bruno Kernen. The skier from the Bernese Ober land had a severe fall here in 1997 but was almost unhurt and won World Cup gold in his particular discipline in Sestriere less than a month later. In 2003, Kernen finally reconciled himself with the Lauber horn and achieved the longed-for victory on his home turf.

T he Lauberhorn is particularly unforgiving of error unless you’re Bode Miller. The US-American won in 2007 despite a fall shortly before the finish. ‘I didn’t fight back at all. Otherwise, I would have been in front or behind – which would have been dangerous,’ said Miller, who skidded over the snow for the final metres. He was not surprised that his strength left him: ‘I knew that after the Hanegg shot, my legs would burn, and I wouldn’t feel anything.’ In the Haneggschuss –after about 1:50 minutes of riding time – the athletes each reach their top speed. Frenchman Johan Clarey accelerated to 161.9 km/h there in 2013 – Lauberhorn and World Cup

record. Nevertheless, he only placed fifth; the winner was Christof Innerhofer from South Tyrol. Often the race is decided by the finishing S sector, a bumpy, firmly turning right-left combination. When other downhill runs are long over, total concentration is still required at Lauberhorn.

It is b y no means always the most daring who triumph in Wengen. Time and time again, the more technical racers come out on top. Alongside Kernen, Carlo Janka. In 2010, the skier from Graubünden brought Switzerland an acclaimed home victory with a sensational, almost perfect run in 2:32.23 minutes. Only one person kept his cool that day, Janka himself. He, who had made his Lauber horn debut only a year earlier, just raised the index finger of his right hand for a few seconds at the finishing line and lived up, once again, to his Ice Man nickname. Celebra tory dances at the end of a race are not his style, Janka explained later. Nevertheless, he was enormously pleased.

However, the most successful Swiss skier of the modern era in Wengen is Beat Feuz. The skier from the Bernese Oberland won the classic in 2012, 2018 and 2020. No other skier has achieved three triumphs since 1980 . Another legend, local skier Karl Molitor is also at the top of the list of best skiers. The mountain guide and ski instructor, who died in 2014 at 94, collected six victories in the down hill race and five more in the slalom and combined runs between 1939 and 1947. Molitor’s trickery in his first success is legendary: he took a shortcut that schoolchildren had stamped into the deep snow and, despite a fall when turning into the regular piste, finished nine seconds ahead of the Austrian – Willi Walch. One of many thrillingly memorable Lauberhon moments.

128 SWISS TOP EVENTS – LAUBERHORN DOWNHILL RUN
´Just think of the centrifugal forces, the impacts and the mirrorsmooth ice on the piste. This is the challenge of challenges.´
© Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen © Marcus Gyger, Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen © Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen (both pages)

You never forget a piste like this.

© Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

What makes the races in Wengen so unique? The magnificent mountain scenery. There is nothing like it anywhere else on the World Cup circuit, and all competing athletes rave about it. Then there is the train ride to the starting line, which has a distinc tively nostalgic charm. Last but not least: is the audience, which contributes to creating a fantastic atmosphere.

Listening to you, you almost seem to be still able to race down the slopes at Lauberhorn, even after your retirement. Precisely! You never forget such a slope; it is deeply imprinted in my memory.

What hav e been the biggest chal lenges for you on the piste? There are two. First of all, the passage from Hund schopf, including the Kernen-S segment. It is very technical; nothing works here without good timing. The finish S part also demands everything from you, and on top of that, your legs get exhausted.

How high does victory at the Lauber horn downhill races rank on your list of successes? Winning this downhill race in front of a home crowd is something every skier dreams about. When I won in Wengen in 2010 , I was only 23 years old – and of course, suitably overwhelmed. To this day, the success at Lauberhorn has lost none of its enormous significance for me.

Were you aware of how incredibly well you were performing back in 2010? Back then, I managed to ride exceptionally well due to favourable conditions of what is called compression in our sport. If a racer

rides at high speed from a steep slope into a flat section or a counter slope, the centrifugal force ensures that the athlete is pushed down wards with great force. Under the conditions, at the time, it was clear to me that there was a lot in it for me. But in skiing, whether it’s enough to win always depends on the compe tition. So you can only really be sure at the very end.

T he Lauberhorn downhill race takes about 2:30 minutes. When do the legs start to hurt – when does the so-called skier’s ʻthigh-burnʼ kick in? You have to push extra hard through the Hundschopf/Kernen-S passage, knowing that the finishing line is still a fair bit away.

What did you eat the night before and in the morning before such a demanding race? In the evening you don’t have to pay too much attention to the food choice. In the morning – at least in the later stages of my career – I always had my own muesli with me.

What was it like when you were a child watching the races at Lauberhorn on television? Bernhard Russi’s tracking shots fasci nated me. I thought to myself: I want to ski down there too! And fortunately, that’s how it turned out and became a reality.

Do you still remember your very first race on the Lauberhorn? That must have been when I was 15 or 16. Years later, when I returned to Wengen as a World Cup skier, I was already quite well prepared for this challenge. And, of course, the Hundschopf section had taught me to be very respectful of the race.

133 SWISS TOP EVENTS – CARLO JANKA
Carlo Janka won the Lauberhorn downhill race in 2010 and still remembers every millisecond of the experience. A chat about childhood dreams, thigh burns and feelings of nostalgia.

Q & A WITH BERNHARD RUSSI

What was the best race you have witnessed at the International Lauber horn Races? I partially saw and painfully witnessed Franz Klammer’s winning run in 1975. With poor visibility and rough piste conditions, he improved the course record at the time with a time of 2:35.19 – leaving us all behind by over three and a half seconds.

Who do you consider to be Mister Lauberhorn? I’m afraid I’ll have to mention three names. Karl Molitor with his six wins between 1939 and 1947. Toni Sailer with four consecutive successful races between 1955 and 1958. And last but not least, Karl Schranz with four triumphs against three generations of top athletes (Sailer, Killy, Collombin).

What makes the myth of the Lauber horn Races for you? The fantastic scenery and natural surroundings, the mountain land scape and the length of the race.

How would you rate the value of winning at Lauberhorn compared to winning any other World Cup race? I am a Lauberhorn winner but on the wrong side, in Grindelwald. Of my ten World Cup victo ries, I would trade five for a win at Lauberhorn and four for a triumph at the Hahnenkamm in Kitzbühel. The tenth, the world championship title, I’d keep for myself!

What has been the most emotional moment for you personally in Wengen? It’s hard to explain, but it was when I finished in 10th place in 1970, with the start number 73 and won my very first World Cup point.

Which three skiers who were active before or after you would you have liked to compete against at the Lauberhorn? Definitely Toni Sailer, Jean-Claude Killy and Beat Feuz!

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SWISS TOP EVENTS – BERNHARD RUSSI
© Verein Int. Lauberhornrennen

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GENEVA BEAU-RIVAGE

GENEVA FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DES BERGUES

Cornelia Destouches, General Manager lecrans.com

T +41 (0)27 486 60 60

GENEVA MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GENEVA

Robert P. Herr, General Manager beau-rivage.ch

T +41 (0)22 716 66 66

GSTAAD GSTAAD PALACE

David Collas, General Manager mandarinoriental.com/geneva

T +41 (0)22 909 00 00

GSTAAD PARK GSTAAD

François Grohens, Hotel Manager parkgstaad.ch

T +41 (0)33 748 98 00

T +41 (0)21 331 31 31

Andrea

T +41 (0)33 748 50 00

GSTAAD THE ALPINA GSTAAD

Martin Rhomberg, General Manager fourseasons.com/geneva

T +41 (0)22 908 70 00

GSTAAD LE GRAND BELLEVUE

Tim Weiland, General Manager thealpinagstaad.ch +41 (0)33 888 98 88

Daniel Koetser, Owner & Managing Director bellevue-gstaad.ch

T +41 (0)33 748 00 00

INTERLAKEN

VICTORIA-JUNGFRAU GRAND HOTEL & SPA

Peter Kämpfer, General Manager victoria-jungfrau.ch

T +41 (0)33 828 28 28

LE MONT-PÈLERIN LE MIRADOR RESORT & SPA

Benjamin

T +41 (0)21 925 11 11

139
Scherz, Owner & General Manager palace.ch
LAUSANNE LAUSANNE PALACE
LAUSANNE-OUCHY BEAU-RIVAGE PALACE
Benjamin Chemoul, General Manager brp.ch
T +41 (0)21 613 33 33
Müller-Rappard, General Manager mirador.ch
Isabelle von Burg, General Manager lausanne-palace.ch
DEKORATIVE SITZMÖBEL VOLLER GESCHICHTEN UND KOMFORT COOLE COUCHZONE TEPPICHDESIGN JAN KATH IM INTERVIEW KLASSIKER SCHWEIZER TATZELWURM LIVING STILSICHER DAS REVIVAL DER HAUSBAR Order now at: shop.falstaff.ch/pages/falstaff-magazin Follow us also on facebook.com/falstaff.living as well as on instagram.com/falstaff.living 6 x Falstaff LIVING & scented candle «Black Lava» Give the gift of reading pleasure and secure an exclusive bonus: Give an annual subscription (six issues) for only CHF 49 and receive a Falstaff LIVING Black Lava scented candle from «The scents of fine Lifestyle» home series as a thank you. THE PERFECT GIFT! ONLY CHF 49.–

LUGANO HOTEL SPLENDIDE ROYAL

LUZERN MANDARIN ORIENTAL PALACE

MONTREUX FAIRMONT LE MONTREUX PALACE

Giuseppe Rossi, General Manager splendide.ch

T +41 (0)91 985 77 11

NEUCHÂTEL

BEAU-RIVAGE HOTEL

Christian

T +41 (0)41 588 18 88

PONTRESINA

T +41 (0)32 723 15 15

T +41 (0)81 830 30 30

Michael Smithuis, General Manager fairmont.com/montreux

T +41 (0)21 962 12 12

ST. MORITZ BADRUTT’S PALACE HOTEL

Richard

T +41 (0)81 837 10 00

T

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Delfim Santos, General Manager beau-rivage-hotel.ch
GRAND HOTEL KRONENHOF
Marc Eichenberger, Managing Director kronenhof.com
Wildhaber, General Manager mandarinoriental.com/luzern
Leuenberger, Managing Director badruttspalace.com
Peter & Esther Egli, General Managers suvrettahouse.ch
Hunkeler, General Managers
+41 (0)81 836 36 36 Heinz E. & Jenny
kulm.com
KULM HOTEL ST. MORITZ
T +41 (0)81 836 80 00 ST. MORITZ
CARLTON HOTEL ST. MORITZ
Lehnort, General
ST. MORITZ SUVRETTA HOUSE ST. MORITZ
Michael & Stephanie
Managers carlton-stmoritz.ch
SWISS DELUXE HOTELS BRAND IS ASSOCIATED THE
OVER WITH EXCLUSIVE SERVICE, SENSATIONAL SUSTAINABLE SETTINGS AND A SENSE OF RESPONSIBILITY.´
T +41 (0)81 836 70 00 ´THE
WORLD
JAN E. BRUCKER, MANAGING DIRECTOR SWISS DELUXE HOTELS

VEVEY

GRAND HÔTEL DU LAC

VITZNAU

PARK HOTEL VITZNAU

ZERMATT

Luc Califano, General Manager grandhoteldulac.ch

T +41 (0)21 925 06 06

T +41 (0)27 966 88 88

Urs Langenegger, General Manager parkhotel-vitznau.ch

T +41 (0)41 399 60 60

ZERMATT RIFFELALP RESORT 2222 m

T +41 (0)27 966 66 00

Hans-Jörg & Claudia

T +41 (0)27 966 05 55

ZÜRICH

T +41 (0)44 220 50 20

142
Walther, Keepers of the Hut riffelalp.com
Christian von Rechenberg, General Manager bauraulac.ch
ZÜRICH BAUR AU LAC
ZÜRICH WIDDER HOTEL
Jörg Arnold, General Manager widderhotel.com T +41 (0)44 224 25 26
ZÜRICH LA RÉSERVE EDEN AU LAC
Thomas Maechler, General Manager lareserve-zurich.com
T +41 (0)44 266 25 25
GRAND HOTEL ZERMATTERHOF
Markus Marti, General Manager zermatterhof.ch
ZERMATT MONT CERVIN PALACE
Rafael Biner, General Manager montcervinpalace.ch
THE DOLDER GRAND
Markus Granelli, General Manager thedoldergrand.com
THE ULTIMATE HIGH-END HOTELS,
THE PLACES
´
T +41 (0)44 456 60 00 ´OUR MEMBER HOTELS ARE
WITH A GLOBAL REPUTATION AS
TO BE.
MICHAEL SMITHUIS, PRESIDENT SWISS DELUXE HOTELS
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A AAAA GLM General Limousine Management

Chauffeur-Limousine-Academy

AB Z Werbeartikel

a leno AG

AMAG Import AG Audi Schweiz

A ndros (Suisse) SA

B onne Maman

A postroph Luzern AG

ARYZTA Food Solutions Schweiz AG

Baur au Lac Vins

B erndorf Luzern AG

B erner Blumenbörsen Genossenschaft

BDO AG

Bin er IT Consulting GmbH

b &n Service AG

Caratello Weine

Cash Hôtel Service SA

CeCo Ltd. Sknife

CFD SA (Culturefood)

Co ca-Cola HBC Schweiz AG Fusetea

Nestea

Sprite Valser

Co rnèr Banca SA

Cu raden AG swiss smile

CWS-boco Suisse SA

Dani el M. Kahn & Partner AG

DD COM AG

Dettling & Marmot AG Hendrick’s Gin T he Macallan

Di ction AG

Diversey Europe B.V. Utrecht Taski

Do ris Hangartner AG

Dr uckerei Bloch AG

Dy naSphere – DEM GmbH

Ec co-Jäger Früchte und Gemüse AG

Eco lab (Schweiz) GmbH

Ecotel Suisse AG

E del & Stark AG

E ditorial AG

E lite SA

Er win Müller Group Lusini Schweiz GmbH

Espr it Gourmand

E. Weber & Cie AG / Webstar

Falstaff Schweiz AG Fideco AG

Fre dy’s AG G. Bian chi AG

Geberit Vertriebs AG GK Media GmbH

GLM – General Limousine Management GmbH

Globalwine AG Gmür AG

Go od Taste Imports GmbH

Grohe Switzerland SA

Groupe GM Exklusive Amenities Hofmann’s GmbH Hotelis SA

Hugo Dubno AG Igeeks AG

IRF Reputations AG Jeroboam SA

KERNenergie GmbH

Kerzenmensch Schönbächler AG Kessler & Co AG Marsh k ukui GmbH

L a Bottega

L äderach (Schweiz) AG

L aurent-Perrier Suisse SA

L oewe Technology GmbH Lyreco Switzerland AG

Maura Wasescha AG

Mérat & Cie AG Ch er-Mignon SA Minib ar World SA MK Illu mination AG

Moët Hennessy (Suisse) SA Do m Pérignon Moët & Chandon Ruinart

Molton Brown Mövenpick Wein AG Musketier Blumen GmbH N arimpex AG

Nestlé Nespresso Suisse SA Nestlé Waters Suisse SA

Acqua Panna Granini Fruchtsäfte Henniez SA San Pellegrino

NetJets Management Ltd

Newby Teas (Suisse) SA nussmischung.ch

Oo na Caviar – Echter Schweizer Alpen Kaviar Orakei Ltd Pakka AG Patiswiss AG P.F. Timmermans AG Positioner SA Ramseier Suisse AG Ring ier Axel Springer Schweiz AG GaultMillau - Channel Royal Fish Sàrl Sc hwob AG

Smith & Smith Wine Company

S ola Switzerland AG Suter Viandes SA

B oucherie du Palais

Swisscard AECS AG

Swisscom (Schweiz) AG

Swiss Line by Dermalab

Swiss Top Events Sygama SA

Swiss Mountain Spring Tam Plenus GmbH

Ce lergen – Cell Therapy Telion SA

T he Bespoke Company T he Music Architect

Tonhalle-Gesellschaft Zürich AG Transgourmet Burra

Co op Pronto / Tankstellen P rodega / Growa Valentin Gastro

Traveller’s World Verlag GmbH vality GmbH Vergani + Co AG Weishaupt Innenausbau AG Weita AG Wetrok AG

Worldline Schweiz AG Z amba Fruchtsäfte AG Zweifel Pomy-Chips AG

144 PREFERRED SUPPLIERS
145 OFFICIAL PARTNERS
TOURISM AND EVENT PARTNERS MEDIA PARTNERS

COVER PHOTO

Zurich – taken by Swiss photographer David Biedert –unites creative city life and idyllic scenery within the smallest of areas.

INTRODUCING GUESTS TO THE WORLD

Fascinating and informative stories, interviews, and themed features on gastronomy, lifestyle, luxury, trends, and business topics, as well as interesting long reads. H Magazine conveys Swiss flair, savoir-vivre, and the well-estab lished world of Swiss Deluxe Hotels and their sophisticated guests. All texts are written by renowned journalists. They offer guest ex periences and glances behind the scenes. H Magazine is aimed at readers who love exquisite service and are interested in learning more about the passion and work of inspiring people who contribute to the success of Swiss Deluxe Hotels. The magazine aims to surprise and fascinate readers – in an elegant fashion.

H

CONTRIBUTORS

Alex Kuehn | a.kuehn@marmite.ch

Beatrice Lessi | beatrice@askthemonsters.com Claudio del Principe | claudio@delprincipe.ch Clifford Lilley | clifford@clifford-lilley.com

Daniel Staub | dan@thepouringtales.com David Biedert | mail@davidbiedert.com

Enno Kapitza | contact@ennokapitza.de

Gigi Kracht | gigi.kracht@bluewin.ch

Mark van Huisseling | info@markvanhuisseling.ch Martin Hoch | martin@nuvu.ch

Nico Schaerer | mail@nicoschaerer.com Oliver Schmuki | oschmuki@gmail.com

Patricia Bröhm | patricia.broehm@t-online.de Peter Keller | peter.keller@nzz.ch

Stefan Hottinger-Behmer | stefan@thediscerningnomad.com Steffi Hidber | steffi@heypretty.ch

Thomas Hauer | thomashauer@web.de Titus Arnu | titusarnu@mac.com

146
MAGAZINE THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF SWISS DELUXE HOTELS DISTRIBUTION H Magazine is distributed across the Swiss Deluxe Hotels member network, reaching a combined 1.5 million guests per year. Additionally, the magazine is available at selected retailers and bookstores in Austria as well as in Germany, First and Business Class Lounges in Switzerland, Germany, Paris and London and is available at Globus Stores throughout Switzerland. It reaches an additional 40,000 readers through its online platforms. H Magazine is further distributed at the World Economic Forum in Davos and is available as an e-reader app version to guests in properties across Switzerland. PUBLICATION H Magazine is published twice a year, in July and December PUBLISHER Swiss Deluxe Hotels | Augustinergasse 30 | 8001 Zürich EDITOR & CREATION
gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com DESIGN DD COM AG | Seefeldstrasse 301 | 8008 Zürich | info@ddcom.ch
Evelyn Gorgos |
ADVERTISING MANAGEMENT
Swiss Deluxe Hotels | gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com Discerning Media | ciao@discerningmedia.com TRANSLATIONS
Stefan Hottinger-Behmer PROOFREADING Apostroph Group
PRINTED BY
AG
Wölflistrasse 1 I 3001 Bern WEBSITE swissdeluxehotels.com H MAGAZINE ONLINE swissdeluxehotels.com/en/magazine H MAGAZINE BLOG swissdeluxehotels.com/en/blog DISTRIBUTION PARTNER Gold Key Media Germany GmbH COOPERATION PARTNERS Traveller’s World Verlag GmbH, Falstaff Schweiz AG, Editorial Media Group AG Would you like to sell our H Magazine in your book shop? Please write to: gorgos@swissdeluxehotels.com
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COMFORT.
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