Stormrider Guide to surfing Biobio

Chile, SOUTH AMERICA

Secret spot, Scott Walls

Summary

+ Handful of world-class lefts	- Really cold water
+ Beautiful region	- Sandbank dependent
+ Very consistent swells	- Exposed to winds & rains
+ Cheap, friendly	- Some pollution problems

The word frontier is often used to describe this verdant southern region, but considering there is another 2500kms of coastline stretching down to the tip of the continent, it’s probably more like the gateway to the real frontier further south. The city of Concepcion is large and industrialised, creating various environmental problems for the close-knit community of surfers who have been battling to keep the coast clean. The waves are often also a battle, with huge stormy swells sweeping in from the S and W and hitting a few newly discovered tow-in spots. Left pointbreaks are clustered in the north, while left rivermouths dominate the central and southern parts of the zone, including Buchupureo, a less than secret barrelling left. Many of these point/rivermouth set-ups rely really heavily on sand build-up, so don’t expect to get the high consistency rates of some of the rocky points further north. There are some mushy, beginner friendly waves like Pullay and Rinconada, plus a healthy number of open beachbreaks that just love a small peaky summer pulse. Bring plenty of rubber as the water rarely tops 15ºC (59ºF) and there is plenty of rain in winter as well.

When to Go

Winter wave heights can reach 20' (6m) with 12 to 18 second period but the winds are often all over the place, with a lot more N direction that blows out the southern corners. Since there are so many rivermouths, the first swells of autumn should hit perfectly sculpted sandbanks and spring flow rates can also build up the bars. Summer beachbreaks may pick up super-long distance NW swells, but the points/rivermouths need wrapping S-SW. With more onshore W in the wind, it’s important to find the protected southern corners. Tides are semi-diurnal and can reach 5ft on extreme phases, affecting most of the rivermouths.

Surf Spots

En route for Curanipe is Santos del Mar, Chile’s latest tow-in outer reef where 30ft lefts have been ridden, but the lefthand rivermouth at the coastal resort is much friendlier and often used as a contest site. The first section known as La Cruz breaks further up off the rocks (Curanipe means black rock) but the long barrelling lefts called Tres Peñas break down by the black sand rivermouth. It’s offshore with S-SW winds and fires at low tide. Tregualemu holds lefts in swells up to 15ft (5m), peeling over rock and sand with fast walls in front of a rivermouth. It’s a private track to the beach, so ask for permission or walk down beach, 1km from the north. Easier access is Pullay, a sandy left point that’s fun for learner/improvers and a great fishing spot for sea bass and sole. Buchupureo is the standout break with La Boca, meaning rivermouth, grooming the sand into really long lefts, breaking in 2-3 sections and it’s protected from S winds. Barrel time can reach a handful of seconds and comparisons with Mundaka means it gets crowded at times. Rinconada is a similar set-up to Buchu’, but it doesn’t get very hollow with long, rumbling walls and tapered cutback shoulders attracting crowds of learners in summer. Colourful fishing pangas sell great seafood on the black sand beach to the tourists and locals. In small swells, have a look at Playa Monte del Zorro for dumpy beachbreak and a protected left in the southern corner. Praia Mela is yet another nice rivermouth set-up that depends on the sand for speed of ride. A pulp mill is under construction on the nearby Rio Itata. Concepción is the capital of Region 8 and the second largest city in Chile, sitting alongside the Bio Bio river, which enters the sea at Desembocadura. Scattered rocks lurk in the beachbreak that picks up plenty of swell for the local bodyboarders. Playa Sector El Piure is one of 6 SW-facing beachbreaks, best in summer peaky swells, set in a wildly beautiful landscape that includes the crazy Skeletor Rocks nearby. Lebu is the capital city of Arauco Province, part of the 8th Bío Bío region. On small swells, Cueva del Toro may have some shape or walk north through the tunnel to get to Playa Millaneco. The main spot for experts and bodyboarders is El Faro, where explosive lefts hit the reef off the cape plus there are 2 jetties and a protected rivermouth sandbank for all abilities. Punta Quidico is another 120km (75mi) south but the long rivermouth lefts below the small lighthouse can be leg-achingly long, tubular and comparable with Buchupureo up north. Tirua is a less perfect set-up, with strong currents from the large river messing with the line-up but it’s offshore in a S wind and empty.

Statistics

dominant swell

S -W

swell size (ft)

5-6

6-7

4-5

consistency (%)

dominant wind

S -SW

S -N

S -SW

average force

F3-F4

consistency (%)

water temp (C)

wetsuit

4/3

Travel Information

Weather
Talcahuano has a temperate Mediterranean climate influenced by the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains. Winter months, from May to September, are cool and rainy with temps ranging from 3-17°C (37-63ºF). The summer months, from December through February, are mild with temps between 6-24°C (43-75ºF). The period of January and February is generally the driest time of the year. Average annual rainfall is 1200mm (48in), with a high between May and August. The weather is also influenced by the cold Humboldt Current that runs the length of Chile during summer and reacts with the hot air currents that come off the land. Use a 4/3 mm fullsuit with boots and 5/4mm with gloves and hood in winter gales.

Lodging and Food
Expect $15-25 for a cheap room and $3-5 for a basic meal. Lots of cheap seafood. Stay in Suhaila Resort south of Curanipe ($60/dble) or Cabañas Mirador Alto Las Brisas or Hostal Refugio del Mar in Curanipe, well used by surfers. Look for Cabañas Rucamar, Miramar or Costamar in Cobquecura. Contact Curanipetur for bookings.

Nature and Culture
Biobio river has world-class white water rafting, Impressive rock formation like Iglesia de Piedra near Buchupureo. Temuco City south is the gateway to the lakes and volcanoes like Pucon. Near Cobquecura is La Loberia, where 3000 seals live on 4 big rocks. In Concepcion Naval base, take a tour on the Peruvian battleship Huascar.