Firuzabad (Fars)

Description:

The most breathtakingly view of the ancient city of Ardašīr-Xwarrah is from above, upon some elevated point. Known also as Gur or Firuzabad, this perfectly rounded city is situated in an alluvial plan created by the river Konayfeqan or Boraza and surrounded by a high mountainous area of the Zagros, which it is locally called Kūh-e Padana. The only northern accessible road to the plain is through a gorge made by the river in the impressive ochre limestone cliffs. (Figs.1; 2) Following the serpentine gorge for five kilometres, on the rocky ridge of an eastern spur of the Kūh-e Tang-āb, a traveller would run across the fortress of Qala-ye Dokhtar and its walls built over terraces. Its position overlooking the northern route led the scholars believing that it had been built by Ardašīr I (224-240 CE) in preparation for his revolt against the Arsacid Ardavan, possibly to protect the plain and the newly founded city. The fortress’ defensive role lasted until Farrukhān, the ispahbad of Tabaristan, escaped from the Buyid dynasty (c. 934-1062 CE) by taking shelter in it. (Figs. 3; 4; 5)

On the western slope of the Kūh-e Padana, there are two larger-than-life rock reliefs. The first one depicts Ardašīr’s investiture, while the second one represents an equestrian duel, with Ardašīr and Ardavan as main characters. Close by the first relief, an inscription by Mihr Narseh celebrates the construction of a bridge. Today only some ruined masonry of two recognisable piers remain. Along the gorge there are also the remains of a road partly carved into the rock called ‘the Road of the Kings’ and a structure, locally known as caravanserais. (Figs. 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 11; 12; 13)

Heading south to the plain, a traveller faces the so-called Atashqadeh. As the name suggests, this structure was once thought to be a fire-temple; however, scholars recently identified it as a residential building – specifically, as Ardašīr’s palace after he became Shahanshah. Its architecture is more akin to other residential palaces than religious structures, usually identified by presenting a chahar-taq. It was partly excavated by Huff in the 70s and has been lately restored. (Figs.14; 15; 16; 17; 18; 19)

To access the city, the ancient traveller would probably have to cross one of two bridges, one controlling the east and the other one the west. Presently, what remains of them are piers made of regularly shaped limestone as the external face, enclosing a pebble-made core. The masonry is held together by hydraulic mortar, called saruj. The huge squared stones, connected through dovetail clamps and consisting of the foundation’s external face, are also preserved. Modern travellers need no bridges as today the river is more of a rivulet. (Figs. 20; 21)

Our traveller would eventually come across the city, whose name Ardašīr -Xwarrah is given to us by many historiographic sources. Its importance was reinforced by the fact that it was one of the five kūra – i.e., districts, of Fars during Sasanian times. The change from the name “Gur” to “Firuzabad” was due to the Buyid Adud, who unsurprisingly did not like people saying ‘the king has gone to gur’ – i.e., grave. The site and its structures had been visited and described by many amateurs and professional archaeologists.

The 1.95-kilometres diameter of the city is surrounded by two mudbrick walls, the main and the inner one, and a 35 metres-wide ditch. This perfectly circular shape had led scholars to interpret this city as an ideological symbol of the sovereign as centre of the state. Sources mention four gates from which was possible accessing the city: Bāb Mihr at the east, Bāb Bahrām at the west, Bāb Hormuz at the north, and Bāb Ardašīr at the south. They are not clearly recognisable today, and the main access is from south. (Figs. 22; 23)

The so-known Tirbal is right in the middle of the site, well-visible from everywhere. It was firstly identified as a fire-tower with a spiraliform external stairway, and then as part of a palace or government building symbolising the divine kingship. However, a more pragmatic function is not excluded. The view from the 30-meters-high tower would have allowed for both the construction of such a perfect layout of the walls, and also communications with Qala-ye Dokhtar in case of attack. A quadrangular structure built in irregularly-shaped mortar-bound limestone is all that remains of it. (Figs. 24; 25)

The traveller would be impressed by the close remains of a dressed-limestone platform, known as Takht-e Neshin. It had also been identified as a fire-temple because of the particular architectural unit of chahar-taq, connected to religious buildings. Some of the limestone blocks, accurately carved, present marks of the dove-tail clamps. Others feature some identifying marks, probably used to indicate the correct placement of the stones during the construction. Nearby is a depression, identified as a cistern connected to the temple because water and fire were worshipped by Zoroastrians. Some preserved northern walls in irregularly shaped saruj-bound limestone seem to confirm the presence of water. (Figs. 26-9)

During the Arab-Muslim conquest, Eṣṭaxr and Ardašīr-Xwarrah were the last cities of Fārs to fall under the attacks of the general ʿAbd Allāh ibn ʿāmir. Nonetheless, its importance did not fade immediately as its strategic location along the road connecting Shīrāz to the port of Sīrāf meant that all commercial goods from the Indies had to pass through here. In this regard, it is key to mention Paul Gotch’s on-site surveys in the 60s, during which he collected huge quantities of celadon. Some of these sherds are now in the British Museum. (Fig. 30)

Walking through the site, it is impossible not to notice that a vast mound of rubble and intensive cultivation does not allow an easy identification of archaeological evidence. However, a lasting inhabitation within the walls after the conquest is confirmed by the so-known Deh-Shahr mentioned by Stein, and by three Imamzadeh. Although no chronology is attested, among the recognisable evidence there are also a mill and two recently excavated features, one identified as a kiln and a room with a fresco. (Figs.) The inaccessibility of Firuzabad lasted until the last century as it was the main residence of the Qashqai chiefs, independent and famous nomads of Fars. However, its unique charm and architectural features keep it an object of study and a stunning travel destination

Entry by Domiziana Rossi
Originally Published: August 15, 2021

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