There are so many beautiful Cornish towns and villages, it can be hard to pick a place to stay. But if you’re after an area that’s slightly quieter than hotspots like Newquay, Padstow and Falmouth, Fowey is a great option.
Pronounced Foy, this picturesque port town on the River Fowey has everything you’d want from a visit to Cornwall, as well as ties to one of the UK’s most famous writers - Daphne du Maurier. Author of iconic books like Rebecca, Jamaica Inn, My Cousin Rachel and The Birds, there’s plenty to see and do in the area whether you’re a fan of her books or not (Hint: my mum is, making this the perfect mother-daughter weekend away).
Where we stayed
We settled on Fowey Harbour Hotel. Just a few minutes’ walk to the local shops and harbour, and with stunning views over the river and out to sea, I would thoroughly recommend it.
Fully renovated in 2019, this boutique hotel is modern, has a huge garden area for soaking up the sun with a good book, and a wrap-around terrace perfect for sipping on some pre-dinner cocktails.
Most of the bedrooms have estuary and harbour views (exactly what you want when you’re staying on the coast) and the décor is suitably light and airy, with a subtle but not in-your-face nautical vibe. Speaking of which, in a move I’m sure ye olde sailors would definitely approve of, each room comes with free gin and sherry. Perfect for a nightcap when you’re lazing in front of the TV after a long day of sightseeing. Plus, the super comfy beds and quiet location make for a dreamy nights’ sleep.
Rates at Fowey Harbour Hotel & Spa start from £236 per night on a B&B basis, via www.harbourhotels.co.uk/Fowey
What we did
One of my favourite things about the hotel was its location. For starters, it’s just minutes from an adorable little beach right in front of the hotel. There’s not a lot of space on the sand (it’s a tiny little hidden cove), but there are benches and a covered shelter right next to it.
Whether you head here or to a more substantial beach, the hotel will lend you complimentary blankets, windbreaks and fold-up seats, as well as fun extras like kites and buckets and spades. You can also request a picnic packed by the hotel (£12-25pp) which, trust me, is worth doing.
The walk down to the little fishing town of Fowey only takes around five minutes and there are some lovely shops to browse in. We enjoyed Heather Jane & Co, Fowey Sweet Shop, Kittows Delicatessen, Tarquin’s Gin Shop, and Brocante.
My biggest recommendation is to take a walk along the South West Coast path. If you keep heading south-west along Esplanade towards Readymoney Road, the street turns into the South West Coast Path. You’ll see St Catherine’s Castle, before passing various secluded beaches. While not open to the public, further inland is Menabilly – the house thought to have inspired the infamous Manderlay in du Maurier's novel Rebecca, where she lived for many years. So, it’s thought one of the coves you’ll walk past were the setting for the ending of the book.
Make sure you save your energy, as when you pass Polridmouth Cove you’ll see a striped white and red tower. This is Gribbin Daymarker and sits on top of a steep hill… one you’ll be walking up. If you’re anything like us, you’ll be pretty exhausted by the time you reach the top. So pack some snacks, have a break and enjoy the view.
We suggest leaving Fowey around 10.30am to avoid the midday sun and arrive just in time for lunch at Sam’s On The Beach on Polkerris Beach. We had a delicious halloumi salad and spent the afternoon lazing on the sand. There is a shortcut back which takes around an hour, but we just booked a taxi because #lazy. The whole walk was just over 2hrs at around 4.5 miles, and the views were incredible. Well worth it!
If you’re fully on that Daphne du Maurier hype, get the ferry over to Bodinnick, where you’ll be able to spot Ferryside. This was a second home to the London-based du Maurier family, where she spent a lot of time and ultimately first fell in love with the area. It’s also worth checking out Fowey Museum for more history on the area and how it influenced her books.
Still looking for more to do? Head down to Fowey Town Quay Landing and get a boat across to Polruan and have a little wander to the castle for lovely views of Fowey. You can do it with an hour or two, or extend your time on this side of the river by walking eastward along the opposite side of the South West Coast path.
Where we ate
One of the main reasons to stay at Fowey Harbour Hotel is the incredible food. For dinner, I started off with a delicious crab and smoked salmon salad, followed by grilled tiger prawns in garlic butter and samphire, and grilled scallops with bacon crumb. De-licious and definitely the best meal we had both for taste and value. Even if you aren't staying here, come for brunch, lunch or dinner. There’s also an extensive cocktail menu and I’d thoroughly recommend the afternoon tea (plus, did you really go to Cornwall if you didn’t have scones, jam and clotted cream?).
In the town there are some great spots for coffee and lunch. Brown Sugar did delicious brunch, while the Cornish Bakery has a great selection of pastries and pasties, including a RHUBARB AND CUSTARD PASTY. I kid you not.
There are loads of casual spots around town like Captain Hanks Crab and Snack Shack, for or a mid-range option Fitzroy and Appleton’s, and for something fancier, Fowey Hall Hotel.
FYI
If you’re coming from the South, get the train – the route along the south coast runs along the beach and is one of the most picturesque routes you’ll find. The nearest train station is Par and takes around 10/15 minutes in a taxi – but book ahead via your hotel or a local company, as the station is small and not one where you can expect cabs to be sat outside waiting.
