Blackheath: Often in Katoomba's shadow, these days the secret is nearly out
In the early morning mist, as smoke wafts out of aged chimney tops and wildlife stirs, the small town of Blackheath comes into its own. A short, 10-minute drive up the road from famed Katoomba, and surrounded by national parkland, Blackheath is the Blue Mountains’ increasingly not-so-well-kept secret.
Blackheath has always taken a backseat to its more popular neighbour; it’s a haven for creatives and a place where Sydneysiders have long sought solitude. It’s a tree-changer’s dream, and those who have recently made a move do little to detract from the community. Rather, they are a much-welcomed addition to an already eclectic mix of locals.
“We always joke at our auctions that if you knew the community you were buying into, you would probably pay a lot more money,” says Alan Gregory, principal of Ray White Blackheath. “Having raised my family here, I honestly believe that. The community support and nurturing are quite unique.”
Originally hailing from the UK, Gregory has lived in the Blue Mountains for 29 years, going to work each day in Blackheath’s village, a line of homely shopfronts along Govetts Leap Road that caters well to local everyday needs.
“Blackheath had transcended from a parochial area to quite a nice demographic mix,” he says. “I like the idea that you have Bruce the butcher and Rick in the grocery shop. Other suburbs are becoming quite busy and have a different atmosphere. Here, you still have a community vibe.”
Lured by the seasonal gardens that Blackheath’s cool-climate provides, Anne Hogarth, interior designer at Thornton and Blake, made a move 19 years ago from Sydney’s inner city. Together with her partner, they built a home that embraces the four seasons.
“You have to learn to dress in layers, and the cool climate demands that. But I love being able to have a fireplace and a garden where you feel the seasons,” Hogarth says. “Blackheath also has a fantastic art community. A lot of different artists — glassblowers, ceramists, painters — my house is full of their work.”
With the Blue Mountains attracting 4 million visitors a year, travellers are increasingly looking to Blackheath for its collection of weatherboard and character homes, many of which have been beautifully restored and are available for short-term stays.
Blackheath is also the launching pad for overnight hikes, challenging rock climbs, and knee-jerking mountain bike rides. Head past the Victory Theatre, a much-loved antique centre and cafe along Govetts Leap Road to the lookouts and hiking trails of the national park. But a stopover at The Bakehouse on Wentworth (to-die-for sourdough, pies and cakes) is well worth it before or after your adventures.
For a hatted, fine-dining experience, Hogarth directs us straight to Fumo. “If you want some excellent food, Fumo has fantastic, interesting food that you won’t get anywhere else. Beautiful food that comes straight out of the wood-fired oven.”
More so than when they first moved into Blackheath, both Gregory and Hogarth notice that Blackheath population swells over the weekends.
“Parking can be hard to come by, and traffic can, at times, be overbearing, but the local businesses thrive on this,” says Gregory. “As roads get better and e-commerce improves, people have the facilities to work from home. A lot more people are choosing to live up here more permanently.”
Since making a move, Hogarth has never looked back. “Blackheath has changed a little over the 20 years I’ve been here, but only for the better. It is a fantastic lifestyle.”
