Name: It is said the Salwa tribe gave the name Salwapur to the region, which became Salwar and then Alwar
Age: It was part of the Matsya Desh Kingdom according to the Mahabharata, but modern Alwar began as a capital of the Macheri Kingdom that was recognised in 1774
State: Rajasthan
Location: In the north-eastern Mewat region of Rajasthan, not far south of Delhi
Distances: 142 km NE of Jaipur, 164 km SW of Delhi
Route from Jaipur: NH8 to Shahpura via Amer SH to Alwar via Bairat, Thana Gazi and Sariska
Route from Delhi: NH8 to Dharuhera via Gurgaon NH71B to Bhiwadi Bhiwadi-Alwar Toll Road to Alwar
A quaint case of Modern-India-meets-Mahabharata-era-meets-severely-British-nomenclature took place in 1948, just after India's independence, when the kingdoms of Alwar, Bharatpur, Dholpur and Karauli became the United Kingdom of Matsya, with its capital at Alwar (the states merged with Rajasthan in 1949). This was a reference to the Alwar region being part of the ancient Matsya Kingdom during the time of the Mahabharata. Otherwise the first significant mention of Alwar in any historical record refers to the year 1265, when Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq invaded it, to punish its inhabitants for their brigandage, which they had the insolence to carry up to the very gates of Delhi. But the dreadful massacre that he ordered seems to have had very little effect, for one finds them enjoying the reputation of inveterate bandits at a much later date.
The ruler who first established Alwar, around 1720, was a Rajput, Pratap Singh, belonging to the clan of Jaipur rulers. He succeeded in taking an area called Macheri from the Mughals and set up his capital in Rajgarh, south of Alwar. By way of obtaining pardon for this usurpation, in 1774 his successor offered his services to Delhi against the Jats, and as a reward was recognised as an independent ruler. Separating himself completely from Jaipur, of which he appropriated several provinces, he established a permanent capital at Alwar.
The best time to visit Alwar is between October and March, but my visit during the tail-end of the monsoons was quite an eye-opener. The area was a luminous green, and the town seemed surrounded by a continuous line of fortifications. Alwar can always be done in one day but the places around it deserve another day or two.
The beautiful 18th-century City Palace is now the headquarters of the Collectorate. It was built by Maharaja Vinay Singh and blends Rajput and Mughal styles of architecture. Interestingly, the building has no stairs, only gently inclining corridors that lead to the upper floors. Like most of the palaces in Rajasthan it contains a Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace), an aggregation of rich decorations and mosaics. The City Palace Museum, also within the premises, is divided into three dusty, moth-ridden rooms. The first is a mixture of furniture, clothes and an enormous stuffed tiger. Theres a long dining table made of silver that is believed to have had water gurgling in silver channels down its length. The armoury room has table after table filled with weapons with murderous edges and points, their handles jewelled, carved and inlaid. The museum also has a fine collection of Mughal and Rajput paintings and ancient manuscripts.
Just behind the collectorate is a spectacular tomb of one of Shah Jahans ministers, called Fateh Singh ki Gumbad. Between the palace and the base of the mountains is a small pond, exaggeratedly called Sagar. Nearby, situated on a high terrace of pink sandstone, lies the impressive mausoleum of Raja Bakhtawar Singh and his mistress. Today it is known only by her name, as Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri, for she made the leap from mistress to titled maharani by stepping into Bakhtawar Singh's funeral pyre.
Entry fee: Indians INR 5, Foreigners INR 50
Timings: 10 am-5 pm, Mondays closed.
The fort was built by the city's oldest inhabitants, the Nikumbha Rajputs, and played host to Babur and Jahangir. Maharaja Pratap Singh annexed it in 1775. Known for its grandeur, Bala Qila, whose ramparts extend 5 km north to south and 1.6 km east to west, is perched atop a steep cliff at a height of 1,000 ft. It is a forbidding structure with 15 large and 51 small towers and 446 openings for musketry. But little remains of the structures inside the fort, except the Durbar Hall where the police have set up a wireless system, which surely cant do any good to the paintings on the walls. Inside the baradari, still somewhat intact, are some exquisite frescoes.
Information: Permission has to be taken from the Superintendent of Police to visit the fort. His office is in the City Palace complex (Tel 0144-2337453). Entry Free.
A picturesque garden in the centre of the town, laid out in 1868, this garden has an enchanting setting. A level of this garden, built by Maharaja Mangal Singh in 1885, is called Shimla, because it always has a cooler-than prevalent temperature. A marvellous cenotaph with an unusual Bengali roof, somehow also known as Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, is situated here.
Information: Entry is Free. Summer house is closed to tourists.
Moti Doongri, or Lansdowne Palace, is situated on an isolated rock on the towns outskirts. It was built in 1882 at an estimated cost of over four-and-a-half million rupees. It was the main residence of the Maharaja of Alwar until 1928. Maharaja Jai Singh dismantled it with the idea of building a better palace at the site, and he sent for raw materials from all over Europe. But the ship bringing in this cargo sank. Now the palace compounds, with high walls all around, remain barren. There is a revered Ganesh Temple within the palace, popular among devotees.
A splendid palace built by Maharaja Jai Singh in 1918, Vijai Mandir overlooks a beautiful lake. A fabulous Ram and Sita Temple here used to attract a number of devotees, especially during Ram Navami. The palace is closed due to family disputes. A few bumpy kilometres off the main Alwar-Sariska Road is the beautiful Jai Samand Lake constructed by Maharaja Jai Singh in 1910. It is a popular picnic spot and a great place to watch the sunset.
In Alwar, you can also hear an unusual one-string instrument called bhapung. Interestingly, traditionally all bhapung players, though born Muslim, are also devotees of Shiva because they believe the instrument derives from Shivas dumroo. If you are in Alwar, try calling the local bhapung group (Tel 2372168). They also give private performances for a fee.
Neemrana-run Hill Fort Kesroli (Tel 01468-289352, Mob 0982981765 Tariff INR 2,500-6,750) is said to be the oldest heritage site in India where you can stay.
About 7 km from Alwar is Hotel Burja Haveli (Tel 0144-5131288, 2888140 Tariff INR 2,400-3,200), a 240- year-old haveli with a pool.
The Circuit House (Tel 2700650 Tariff INR 750) is another heritage option you need the DMs permission to stay (Tel 2337565).
Hotel Aravali (Tel 2332883/ 316 Tariff INR 700-4,200) is by far the best bet in Alwar.
Hotel Alwar (Tel 2700012, Tariff INR 2,000-3,500) has spacious rooms and is within a few minutes of most monuments.
RTDCs Hotel Meenal (Tel 2347352 Tariff INR 1,000- 1,300), close to the Circuit House, lies a little out of town but it is a safe bet.
If you have a sweet tooth, dont miss the Alwar mawa. For a more regular meal, the gatte ki sabzi and desi ghee ki missi roti at Prem Pavitra Bhojnalaya near the old bus stand are superb. At Ghanta Ghar, Baba Hotel makes paranthas and inexpensive veg thalis. Also try Hotel Inderlok Classic, a veg restaurant at Company Bagh Road. Pick up Alwar's famous milk cake, kalakand.
Silserh Lake (13km) - In 1845, Raja Vinay Singh built a small white palace for his queen, Shila, in a dramatic location overlooking the Siliserh lake. Today it is a heritage hotel (Hotel Lake Palace, Tel 0144-2886322 Tariff 2,000-4,000) run by the RTDC an idyllic picnic spot with an enchanting landscape. Sariska and Pandu Pol (31 km)
Sariska and Pandu Pol (13km) - Commissioned by Maharaja Jai Singh, Sariska Palace was once extremely grand, boasting of a French pavilion and a pool. Wide gardens with fountains make its isolation even more stunning. But all this is now in ruins situated in the middle of tiger territory, though antelopes and birds are easier to spot in this sanctuary. The big cats used to be so numerous that Maharaja Jai Singh and his guests could shoot tigers and leopards from the palace balcony These forests are also supposed to have sheltered the exiled Pandavas. A picturesque spring emerges from the rocks near Pandu Pol and there is a temple dedicated to Hanuman. If your motive is not the temple but only wildlife, don't visit on Tuesdays or Saturdays as the crowds are huge.
Information: Sariska NP entry fee Indians INR 60, foreigners INR 400, Vehicle INR 160, Video Camera INR 250, Timings 6-10am, 3-6 pm.
Once the hunting lodge of the royal family of Alwar, The Sariska Palace (Tel 0144-2841322-23/ 25 Tariff INR 8,400-19,500) is now a heritage hotel with modern amenities. Tigers Den Hotel (Tel 2841342/ 44 Tariff INR 2,000-4,000) is an RTDC property situated at the gate of the sanctuary. Advance booking is crucial.
