Kodungallur is a picturesque little town. History and the humdrum everyday coexist peacefully life here functions as it would in a small town in Kerala, without the self-awareness and the consciously manufactured, sometimes commercial, nostalgia that plagues many other historical cities. While some of the inhabitants are aware of the history, myths and legends of their hometown most reject the thought that their town was the gateway to three major religions in India. One consequence of the lack of bustling tourism is that Kodungallur does not offer uninterrupted power supply and wifi-enabled cafes for the interested tourist. But offers a veritable feast for the keen tourist and history buff.
It was here that St. Thomas the Apostle landed in India in 52 CE. He went on to convert the Namboodiris and build the first of his seven-and-a-half churches, starting with the Palayur Church, 46km from Kodungallur.
Kodungallur is also home to India&rsquos first mosque, the Cherman Juma Masjid, built in 629 CE, during the lifetime of the Prophet. This mosque was most likely built by the legendary king Cheraman Perumal, once he converted to Islam.
The Thalikkulam and Nattika Beaches draw a large crowd and are usually packed with people in the evenings. Vendors offer generic knick-knacks like bangles and toys, and roadside snacks. The beaches are nice to bathe in by the day, but not ideal for revealing swimwear.
The Spice Route
Kodungallur&rsquos spice trade flourished in the first millennium CE. It is believed that King Solomon&rsquos fleet visited Kerala for trade and that the place was known to the early Jews as long ago as 1,000 BCE. According to Jack Turner in Spice The History of an Obsession (2004), about 120 vessels from the Red Sea ports carried pepper back from the Malabar Coast every year. The Tamil epic Silappatikaram, dated roughly 7th century CE, speaks of &ldquothe beautiful vessels, the masterpieces of the Westerners, (stirring) white foam on the Periyar river, arriving with gold and departing with pepper.&rdquo Pliny is known to have described the bustling port as well.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Marthoma Pontifical Shrine, Azhikode
Modeled after St. Peter&rsquos Basilica in Rome, the Marthoma Pontifical Shrine at Azhikode commemorates St. Thomas&rsquo arrival on the Indian Subcontinent in 52 CE. The church was built with elements of classical architecture, like colonnades, and houses paintings depicting scenes of St. Thomas&rsquos arrival. It also preserves a relic, brought here in 1952, the bone of St. Thomas&rsquo right arm, which has been carefully preserved. Notably, the shrine here was built in just 90 days. It is quiet, off the beaten track.
Timings 9am&ndash6pm
Cheraman Juma Masjid, Methala
The oldest mosque in India was built in 629 CE, just seven years after the Prophet&rsquos migration to Medina. In addition to being the oldest mosque in the country, it also has the distinction of being the second oldest mosque in the world where Friday prayers are conducted. It was constructed in a distinctively indigenous architectural style. According to the legend, King Cheraman Perumal, after whom the mosque is named, converted to Islam. He took on the name &lsquoTajuddin&rsquo, marrying the sister of the Jeddah king. Before he died, he handed over letters addressed to the Rajas of Kerala to his brother-in-law, exhorting them to propagate Islam in the region. As per his wishes, the Jeddah king came to Kerala and met the Raja of Kodungallur, who helped him build the Juma Masjid.
Location Padakulam, on NH17 Timings 5.15am&ndash7.30pm
Koratty Muthy Church
A part of Kodungallur&rsquos charm lies in the overlap of culture, religion and aesthetics. Just as the Cheraman Juma Masjid is built like an ancient temple, St. Mary&rsquos Forane Church at Koratty, 23km to the east of Kodungallur, is built in the traditional Keralite Hindu architectural style. Built in 1382, this shrine is second only to Velankanni as a pilgrimage centre. Koratty Muthy, the Holy Mother, is said to shower her blessings on whosoever visits her, regardless of caste and creed. Within the church, the 12 apostles are carved in wood, while the Holy Trinity crowns the main statue of Mother Mary. The wall are rich with paintings of scenes from Mary&rsquos life. Outside the church is the Rosary Village, which has 15 mini chapels. There&rsquos also an ancient granite stone cross and, interestingly, a statue of Jesus Christ in padmasana, a traditional yoga posture, pointing both the multi-cultural heritage of the Church as well as this region being a melting pot of diversity.
Location 23km east of Kodungallur along the Annamanad-Mala Pallipuram Road Timings 8am&ndash8pm
Rama Temple, Thriprayar
The idol of Rama at this temple is sculpted in the Chaturbhuja Vishnu form, with four arms, bearing a conch, a disc, a bow and a garland, respectively. The iconography of the idol blends together elements from both Shiva and Brahma myths. The deity here is thus also referred to as a manifestation of the trimurthi. Other than the Nalambalam Yatra, the temple also attracts devotees for the pooram in Meenam (March&ndash April), for Onam in Chingam (August&ndashSeptember) where the temple hosts a snake boat race, and for the Ekadasi celebrations in Vrischikam (November&ndashDecember).
Timings 4.30am&ndash12pm & 4.30&ndash 8pm
Koodalmanikyam Bharata Temple, Irinjalakkuda
This temple is known for Anguliangamkoothu, a performative art form consisting entirely of hand gestures. It is performed during the dance festival in July and August, along with other traditional dance dramas such as Ramayanamkoothu and Koodiyattam. On the way to Irinjalakkuda from Kodungallur lies the village of Nadavaramba, known for traditional bell-metal oil lamps.
Timings 3am&ndash11.30am, 5pm&ndash 8.15pm
Getting There
Kodungallur lies along NH17, which divides the city into two equal halves approximately, running parallel to the Pullut Puzha. The Kodungallur-Shoranur SH22 begins at the Bhagavathy Temple, which is located on NH17 at the heart of the town. The railway station at Irinjalakuda is further north along SH22.
Nearest airport is Cochin International Airport, Nedumbassery (31km/ 1hr). Nearest railhead is at Irinjalakuda (15km), and Thrissur (36km). The latter is better connected to all major stations in Kerala and across the country
