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A family whose ancestor is entombed there visit the sunken cemetery in Camiguin, engulfed following a volcanic eruption in 1871. Photo: James Wendlinger

48 hours on Camiguin, Philippine ‘island born of fire’: beaches, ruins, lush forest, waterfalls, natural springs

  • Seven volcanoes dominate island off northern Mindanao and have shaped its form and history; their lush slopes hide waterfalls and hot and cold natural springs
  • A paradise for hikers, divers, history buffs and nature lovers, the island is an 80-minute flight from Manila and compact enough to see in two days
Asia travel

True to its nickname “island born of fire”, Camiguin has been shaped by volcanic eruptions and earthquakes. The pearl-shaped island off the north coast of Mindanao in the southern Philippines has one of the highest densities of volcanoes on Earth – there are seven within its 238 square kilometres (92 square miles). Among these, however, only Mount Hibok-Hibok (meaning “that which heaves”) is still considered active.

Camiguin’s compactness is an advantage; its lush forest, hot and cold natural springs, pristine white beaches, waterfalls, bird and animal life can all be explored in 48 hours. Here’s what to see on a visit.

Where to go

Katibawasan Falls: in the middle of a lush forest is a waterfall that cascades 75 metres (250 feet) into a narrow, hip-deep pool. The falls are surrounded by orchids, giant ferns and tropical trees that provide an atmospheric backdrop for a summer dip. This is also the favourite starting point for trekkers heading to the slopes of Mount Timpoong – Camiguin’s highest volcano, with a summit at 1,630 metres above sea level.

Bura soda water swimming pool: in the town of Catarman, 30 minutes from the provincial capital, Mambajao, the soda swimming pool has constantly flowing water that tastes like carbonated water. The water is crystal clear and its temperature is just right for relaxing while enjoying views of green rolling hills. There is also a tap from which visitors can drink the soda water, a mini-restaurant, and picnic sheds on site.

Mount Hibok-Hibok: an active stratovolcano with an elevation of 1,332 metres and a diameter at its base of roughly 10km, Mount Hibok-Hibok is a popular hiking destination in Camiguin. The trail to the summit traverses a low-density forest dotted with ferns, mosses, and bushes.

The lushly forested slopes of Camiguin’s volcanoes dominate the Philippine island. Photo: James Wendlinger

The summit, which takes between three and five hours to reach, offers views of the Ilihan Crater, White Island (see below), and the neighbouring islands of Siquijor and Bohol. To climb Mount Hibok-Hibok, you need a permit from the Department of Environment and Natural Resources office in Mambajao (+63 88 387 0040). There is a registration fee of 200 pesos per person, and guide fees start from 1,200 pesos.

Ardent hot spring: this cascade of six hot springs is the usual jumping-off point for hikes up Mount Hibok-Hibok. The topmost pool is the hottest, with a water temperature of about 40 degrees Celsius (104 Fahrenheit). As the water trickles down to the steaming lower pools, the temperature decreases. The ideal time for swimming is early morning or late afternoon, as the heat can be too much, especially during the summer months. There are cottages, a restaurant, coffee shop, and lodging facilities for tourists.

Sto Nino cold spring: if you want to escape the heat, drop by the Sto Nino Cold Spring in Catarman. It looks similar to the Bura soda pool, but is larger and the pool is deeper (up to 2.1 metres, or 7 feet). The water in the pool flows down from Mount Mambajao, and is so clear that you can see small freshwater fish swimming beside you. There are huts, tables and chairs for rent for lunch, as well as several carinderias (Filipino food stalls) where you can have authentic local dishes cooked and delivered to your hut.

A visitor suns herself at Kantibawasan Falls on Camiguin. Photo: James Wendlinger
A child samples the waters at Bura Soda Water Swimming Pool. Photo: James Wendlinger

White Island: this is a small, uninhabited sandbar with picturesque Mount Hibok-Hibok and Mount Vulcan forming its backdrop. A few hundred metres offshore, the island is ideal for swimming and sunbathing. If you’re lucky, you may spot seabirds breeding on the island. Check the tide schedule before you go, as White Island becomes submerged at high tide. To get there, rent a small boat from Paras Beach Resort.

Mantigue Island Nature Park: a marine sanctuary 3km off Barangay San Roque in Mahinog, Mantigue is a four-hectare island fringed with white sandy beaches. Its waters are packed with colourful marine life, including small tropical fish, pelagic fish, marine turtles and stingrays. The boat ride from Barangay San Roque takes 20 to 30 minutes. Snorkelling gear and cottages are available for rent, and you can bring your own food to the island.

Old Spanish church ruins: if you want to discover more about the history of the island, visit the ruins of the 16th century Spanish Catarman Church, one of the oldest structures in Camiguin. They serve as a reminder of the devastating eruption of Mount Vulcan in 1871, which wiped out the island’s Spanish-era capital, then known as Cotta Bato. Also called the Old Guiob church ruins, they comprise a moss-covered wall of coral and the remnants of a bell tower and a convent. A small chapel within the walls of the old church offers a place to pray. Century-old trees line the site, providing welcome shade. About 30 minutes from the centre of Mambajao, it is easily accessed by road.

An aerial view of Mantigue Island, a nature sanctuary 3km offshore from Camiguin Island. Photo: James Wendlinger
Tourists at the sunken cemetery in Camiguin. Photo: James Wendlinger

Sunken cemetery: the same volcanic eruption that brought down the Catarman Church submerged the province’s cemetery in water. To commemorate its loss and mark its location, a giant cross was built by the provincial government in 1982. A place for adventurous divers, the cemetery is home to giant clams and a variety of corals and fish. Broken tombs and crosses are visible at low tide. The local government will assign you a well-trained tour guide, and snorkelling gear is available for rent on site. The Catarman Church ruins and sunken cemetery were recently declared National Cultural Treasures by the National Museum of the Philippines.

Walkway to the Old Volcano (also known as Mount Vulcan): if you are not up for a strenuous hike, then the 8km walkway to the Old Volcano is only a mildly difficult hike. Along the way are statues depicting the stations of the cross, making it a popular pilgrimage site for Catholics and devotees of other churches.

The trail starts smoothly, with concrete steps and shade provided by canopies, but the slope becomes steeper as you climb. The peak gives you a breathtaking view of the ocean, including the sunken cemetery.

Camiguin packs seven volcanoes into its 238 square kilometres. Only one, Mount Hibok-Hibok, is considered active. Photo: Alamy
A fisherman at work off Camiguin. Photo: James Wendlinger

What to eat

Lanzone: this is a seasonal fruit mostly found in the southern Philippines. Lanzones have a light brown skin with translucent flesh similar to lychee. There are many varieties, but the ones in Camiguin are considered to be the sweetest in the country. During the Lanzones Festival, celebrated in the third week of October, the streets, and even houses, are decorated with the fruit. Parades and street parties make the island come alive.

Kiping: this is a thin, crispy, pancake-like dish generously drizzled with latik, or caramelised brown sugar. It is made from dried cassava and is as large as a plate. It is normally sold for 10 to 20 pesos and vendors are easily found outside the island’s main attractions.

Pastel: these soft buns are filled with an egg yolk custard called yema. Pastel, a Spanish word for cake, can be found all over Mindanao and occasionally in malls elsewhere in the country, but they originated in a small bakery in Camiguin called Vjandep Bakeshop (vjandep.com). If you are not into yema, there are numerous other flavours, ranging from mango to macapuno (a form of coconut), cheese and peanut butter.

Tourists enjoy the waves on Mantigue Island, off Camiguin. Photo: James Wendlinger
Fishermen at work off Camiguin. Photo: James Wendlinger

Getting there

A direct flight from Manila to Mambajao Camiguin Airport via SkyJet (daily except Tuesday and Wednesday; full daily service expected from October) takes 80 minutes. The best way to get around the island is to hire a multicab; alternatively, you can rent a motorcycle for between 500 and 800 pesos per day.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: For the crater good
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