Wine Spectator - November 15, 2022

CONTENTS Nov. 15, 2022 Vol. 47, No.
10
There’s a flood of great California Cabernet Sauvignon on the market. The 97-point
2019 vintage, offering lush, fruit-forward reds, is a bountiful sequel to the structured,
terroir-driven Cabernets from the 99-point 2018 vintage.—COVER STORY
40Annual report on California Cabernet
COVER STORY Features

40 California Cabernet Classic Napa’s premier red wine PEOPLE
goes from strength to strength as the newly released 2019 63 Staglin Family Founded by Shari and Garen Staglin with
Cabernets include dozens of classsic and outstanding bottlings the 1986 vintage, this Napa winery is now helmed by second-
while the late-release 2018s continue to uphold that vintage’s generation Shannon Staglin, whose eyes are firmly fixed on both
near-perfect rating • James Molesworth the present and the future • MaryAnn Worobiec
54 Napa’s Mountain Terroirs The micro-climates and WINE
rugged geographies of the region’s higher-elevation vineyards 73 Sicily: A Grape & Wine Guide Understanding the
make them challenging AVAs to farm, but the results in the Italian island’s signature red and white grape varieties is key to
bottles reward the effort • Aaron Romano discovering the bottles you’ll like best • Alison Napjus
JEFF HARRIS
26How to use capers 73Sicilian reds and whites
30Best from New Zealand 63Staglin Family
Grapevine Departments
20 Investing in Wine Offering an alternative to traditional 15 This Issue Marvin R. Shanken
investments, firms specializing in wine-buying for future
18 Feedback
speculation come with their own caveats • Peter Hellman
35 James Molesworth Beaulieu Vineyard on the upswing
23 News Tornado and hail strike a famed Rhône vineyard;
vintners are on the lookout for the lantern fly; remembering 38 Tim Fish A Zinfandel veteran looks ahead
Louis-Fabrice Latour • Kristen Bieler, Lynn Alley, Bruce Sanderson
108 Unfiltered Rocca delle Macìe celebrates the Trinity
26 Tastes Fine Italian capers • Owen Dugan Westerns; upgrade your dragon wine collection • Collin Dreizen,
Elizabeth Redmayne-Titley
29 Auctions V Foundation Wine Celebration raises
TOP LEFT: ANNA QUAGLIA/EYEEM; BOTTOM RIGHT: TAI POWER SEEFF
$6.5 million for cancer research; Auction of Washington Wines

brings in $4 million • Kenny Martin
30 Wine Focus New Zealand wineries are sending their best
to the U.S. • MaryAnn Worobiec
32 Savvy Shopper Reds and whites from all over Italy;
Argentine values • Bruce Sanderson
Cover photograph by Jeff Harris

The Buying Guide
85 Buying Guide Contents
87 Spectator Selections
88 About the Buying Guide
90 New Wines From Around the World
O U R TO P - S C O R I N G W I N E S T H I S I S S U E
Harlan Estate Abreu Cappella

Napa Valley 2018 St. Helena 2018
106Reviews of wines from Oregon 99 POINTS, $1,650 99 POINTS, $650
Visit WineSpectator.com/111522 to find links to all of the

following resources.
FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL

WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS
ALPHABETICAL GUIDE TO CALIFORNIA
CABERNET This year’s annual report takes in more than
800 wines, focusing on the classic-scoring 2019 and 2018
vintages. For a complete list of scores and prices for all wines
tasted, go to WineSpectator.com/CabernetAlpha111522.
TOP 100 WINES OF THE YEAR On Nov. 7, we begin
unveiling the Top 10 Wines of 2022—complete with videos,
tasting notes and more—culminating with the Wine of the
Year on Nov. 11 and the complete Top 100 list on Nov. 14.
Don’t miss the year’s most exciting wines!
WHAT AM I TASTING? Test your tasting skills in our
mystery wine game. Evevry two weeks, we post a tasting
note with clues from the color, aromas, flavors and structure.
Then, you guess the variety, region, appellation and age of
the wine.
Unfiltered, on WineSpectator.com
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T H I S I S S UE
Commitment to California Cabernet
M
y passion for wine collecting began with
Napa Cabernets from the 1974 vintage. I
was so struck by their rich flavors yet subtle
style that I began to aggressively seek them
out. The challenge in those early years was
that production was quite limited and distribution outside
Northern California was small. Retailers in the New York area
didn’t typically carry California Cabernets in the 1970s and ’80s.
As an example, in 1976 I walked into a retail wineshop in the
New York suburbs and asked if they had any Charles Krug Cab-
ernet 1974. The store owner looked at me aghast. He told me he
had one case in the basement. I asked why it wasn’t on the shelf
and he told me he can’t sell it but had been forced to buy it by
his distributor in order to get 10 cases of CK Mondavi—Krug’s
jug wine. So, I bought the case, for $1.85 a bottle. Major stores
in New York like the well-known Sherry-Lehmann had none.
Twenty-some years later, around 2000, I decided to do a retro-
spective horizontal tasting of the 1974 vintage with my senior
editors. We tasted maybe 20 different brands. My recollection is
that half of them were dead soldiers. The other half were quite
drinkable. Standouts with body and complexity were Mayacamas
and Robert Mondavi. The most extraordinary wine was Heitz
Martha’s Vineyard ’74, which I consider today the finest example
of any Napa Cabernet ever made. The best of the best!
Over the years there was controversy about whether or not
California wines could improve with age. Heitz certainly proved in addition to a history of producing excellent wines is a leader
the case. If you are lucky enough to have a bottle or see it on a in philanthropic efforts. Finally, students of Italian wines should
restaurant wine list, close your eyes and sip it and you’ll be in not miss senior editor Alison Napjus’ guide to the grapes and
heaven—and part of history. wines of Sicily, beginning on page 73.
This brings us to the issue you now hold in your hands. Please I look forward to seeing many of you at the New York Wine
refer to the charts beginning on page 50 to see the top-scoring Experience in October, where we will all get to discover new
current California Cabernets from more than 800 recent reviews. taste experiences, including more than 30 California Cabernets,
You will notice many new wineries and vineyard-designated along with a wealth of other wines scoring 90-plus, at the Grand
wines. The great challenge will be searching them out to be able Tastings.
to enjoy them—and the excellence of the 2019 vintage, which
lead taster James Molesworth gives a classic rating of 97 points,
will only heighten the difficulty. But if you are creative and
relentless in trying to find them, it will be worth the effort.
Molesworth carries on the heritage and excellence of senior
editor James Laube, who was our lead Cabernet critic from the
very beginning and until 2018. In my mind, they are the greatest Marvin R. Shanken
one-two punch in the wine-tasting world. Editor and Publisher
A
lso in this issue is a companion piece by Napa-based
editor Aaron Romano analyzing Napa’s mountain-
side grapegrowing areas, whose terroir helps Cabernet
DAVID YELLEN
to excel. And beginning on page 63, senior editor MaryAnn

Worobiec profiles Rutherford’s Staglin Family Vineyards, which
NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 15

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F E E D B A C K
How Legends Are them ship me some bottles. some ink? Also, I’m not sure ited menu. This does rather
Made Thanks for the informa- how the 2019 Belle Glos call into question how Wine
I want to commend Mary- tion, and I hope you will fea- doesn’t get a mention. Spectator comes up with its
Ann Worobiec for her recent ture articles on wine regions David Cegelka list of winners, since no one
story including Dick Graff in other states as well. I am a Beacon Falls, Conn. can have sampled the restau-
(“Legends of California fan of America’s wines from rant’s offerings during the
Chardonnay,” cover, July 31). Maine to Alaska, Virginia to Editor’s note: It’s up to winer- past two years.
Worobiec’s summary of Oregon and Missouri to New ies to submit their wines for Pat Bitton
Graff’s contributions to Cali- Mexico. tasting; Skywalker hasn’t done Eureka, Calif.
fornia wine was both specific Lenard Davis so for some time. The recent
and accurate. I admire her Newport Beach, Calif. releases from Belle Glos, how- Restaurant Awards director
reporting and Rich Boer’s ever, were reviewed. A free Cassia Schifter responds:
contribution. I would like to Pinot Point of View alphabetical list of scores and Historically the Wine Specta-
add that Dick’s first vintage After reading [“A Banner prices for all Pinot Noirs tasted tor Restaurant Awards program
was in 1966 (I still have a Year for California Pinot for the report can be found at protocols would dictate that a
bottle of Pinot Noir). The Noir,” This Issue, Sept. 30], WineSpectator.com/PinotAlpha closed restaurant cannot hold
birds got the 1967 and 1968 regarding California Pinot 093022. WineSpectator.com an award. But the past two
vintages, but his 1969 vin- Noir and its inherent quali- members can access complete years have been unprecedented
tage was legendary. Dick and ties, I thought it came off as reviews using the online Wine for the hospitality industry.
I were business partners for a bit elitist to ask California Ratings search. For 2021, not wanting to
over 27 years. I only wish producers to make more of further downtrod a community
that there had been more. an effort to show their wines Remembering already struggling due to pan-
In 2014, I established the on the East Coast. Rochioli demic restrictions, we allowed
Woodward/Graff Wine Foun- I especially felt this way I want to complement Tim restaurants to freeze their
dation Endowment at Cal given that Wine Spectator re- Fish and Aaron Romano on award. For 2022, we went
Poly San Luis Obispo. It cently featured a cover story their obituary of Joe Rochi- back to requiring applicants to
awards scholarships to wine on Domaine Rousseau (May oli. Jr. (WineSpectator.com, submit all materials for judging,
business students. 31). I find it harder to source Aug. 19). It was a great arti- but with the strains that CO-
Phil Woodward Rousseau wines than those cle and gave a real sense of VID-19 has put on so many,
Sonoma, Calif. of the leading producers of who he was, his love of the we strived to communicate and
Sonoma County when on vines, and everything. It was be understanding.
NY State of Mind the East Coast. just wonderful and brought a We feel it would go against
I loved reading your article Jeffrey Perisho tear with the wonderful and the ideals of the program to strip
about New York’s East End Wine director, The Plumed sensitive writing! Thank you! restaurants of their awards if
wineries (“Hitting the North Horse Jack Keegan they are working to maintain
Fork Wine Trail,” Sept. 30). Los Gatos, Calif. Oxford, Ohio or restore wine lists deserving
I recall years ago, upon the of recognition.
advice of Wine Spectator, vis- Recently, I was reviewing Editor’s note: Joe Rochioli Jr.’s
iting a place in Manhattan the new Pinot Noir 2019 obituary will appear in print in CORRECTION
called Vintage New York, issue (cover, Sept. 30). I’ve the News section of our Nov. In the Oct. 15 cover story profil-
ing screenwriter and vintner Rob-
which served only tastings been a fan of Wine Spectator 30. issue. ert Kamen, he correctly received
of New York wines. I enjoyed for numerous years now and his Ph.D. from the University of
everything I tasted. I especially enjoy the vintage Restaurant Awards Pennsylvania.
Alas, that place is no review editions. I’ve been Reprieve Questions and Comments
more. Visiting the East End through numerous Pinot I was concerned to note that If you have a comment on a story or
of Long Island is something Noir issues and have never Restaurant 301 at the Hotel a question about wine, we would like
to hear from you. Please keep your
I would love to do, and your seen a tasting or review of Carter continues to be listed letters brief and be sure to include
articles in the issue included Skywalker Pinot Noir. As a as a Grand Award winner. As your name, address and telephone
helpful recommendations of Star Wars fan, I admit to be- a local resident and sometime number (not for publication). We
reserve the right to edit letters for
enticing places to stay, eat ing somewhat partial. The patron, I am aware that the clarity. Write to us at Letters, Wine
and taste wine. I also plan to 2014 vintage out of Marin restaurant was closed from Spectator, 825 Eighth Ave., 33rd
Floor, New York, NY 10019; send a
contact some of these winer- County was especially good. March 2020 until July 2022, fax to (212) 684-5424; or email us
ies in the meantime and have Any chance George gets when it reopened with a lim- at letters@winespectator.com.
18 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

GRAPEVINE N EWS F OO D & TR AV E L PE OP L E CO LL E CTIN G
Funds Push Wine As Alternative Asset

BY PETER HELLMAN
W
ine investment funds are
having a moment—again.
After the collapse of several
such funds a decade ago,
triggered by the Chinese re-
treat from the luxury wine market, they are
again coming on strong. While their meth-
ods differ, all wine funds promote a common
message: It’s smart to augment your tradi-
tional portfolio of stocks and bonds with an
alternative investment in ageworthy wine.
“You are looking for a low-volatility asset
that is uncorrelated to the rest of the econ-
omy, and that’s what wine is,” said Tom
Gearing, co-founder of London-based wine
investment fund Cult Wines. When the
stock market plunged in 2008, investment
Wines rest in a Bordeaux warehouse in their original wooden crates.
grade wine prices barely budged. So far in
2022, wine is again ignoring stocks: the Liv-
ex 1000, a composite of the most widely traded investment-grade wines, tailwind,” Zhang told Wine Spectator. “I looked at art, classic cars, hand-
is up 8.6%, while the S&P 500 was down 16% as of Sept. 1. bags, but it was wine and whiskey that really stood out to me.”
Fine wine, fund managers claim, is not only an alternative asset but Zhang claims that his fund’s “average users are in their 30s, not their
a “wasting asset.” That is, soon after a highly praised vintage hits the 50s,” and he believes that at least some of this cohort is looking for
market, bottles start to be consumed, often well before they reach their shortcuts to getting into wine. “Say goodbye to rigorous research ... we
ideal drinking window. As their count diminishes, the remaining bottles do the hard work for you,” states Vinovest’s homepage. New Vinovest
inevitably rise in price. Only once they have reached peak maturity customers, advised by a “team of world-class sommeliers,” can purchase
does the upward price pressure relent. Long before that point, an alert a personal wine portfolio starting at $1,000. The fund charges an an-
wine investment firm will have sold the wine you invested in at a profit. nual fee for authentication, storage, insurance and “active management”
But wine is not as straightforward an investment as shares in a com- ranging from 2.5% to 2.85% depending on the amount invested. Ad-
pany or governments bonds. Investors should do their research and un- ditional fees include a 3% penalty for asking the firm to sell your wine
derstand how the funds work and how much they will pay in fees. Is within three years of purchase.
this sort of liquid investment a good idea? Vinovest says it sources its necessarily high volumes of client wines
Wine investment funds were once more popular in Europe than in the from “wineries, global wine exchanges, and merchants.” What happens
U.S, primarily due to tax rules, but that’s changing. Taking advantage when clients want to sell their wine? In a Q&A, the fund tells inves-
of a fairly steady multi-year upswing in prices of collectible wines, two tors that “we will sell your wines to the highest price buyer in our net-
U.S.-based wine investment funds have launched successfully since 2019, work. This process typically takes two to three weeks.”
while London-based Cult, aiming to penetrate the North American But the fine print in its terms and conditions is less reassuring: “You
market, opened sales offices in New York and Toronto in 2021. may, at any time, ask that we liquidate your portfolio. However, Vinovest
The hardest charging of the new funds is San Francisco–based Vinovest. is under no obligation to do so [and] is not required to purchase your
Not quite three years old, Vinovest claims to have already snagged 11,000 wine from you or to find a third party purchaser should you wish to sell
investors and to hold almost half a million bottles of wine purchased for any of your wine.” Asked about ease of selling wine held by his firm,
them. Vinovest’s founder, Anthony Zhang, a serial startup entrepreneur Zhang said, “If you stick to the plan then you shouldn’t have a problem
DEEPIX STUDIO
at 27, is a relative newcomer to the wine business. selling it.”

“I saw the rise of people moving to alternative investments as a key What is that plan? According to the fund’s website, “As a rule of

N E W S
thumb, Vinovest investors typi-

cally hold their wine for five to
How Do 2 The fund managers purchase
the wines, which are ideally 4 Investors need
to be careful.
10 years.” Wine Funds held in a bonded warehouse. That Many funds don’t
The other recently established Work? guarantees their provenance. allow you to cash
out early, and there
American fund, Virginia-based
can be several fees
Vint, boasts a unique concept: It that are tucked away
offers only SEC-registered series
of shares in mini-wine portfo-
1 Investors put
money in a
fund to buy either
in the fine print.
lios—about three dozen since its particular collectible

2019 start-up. As at Vinovest, wines or shares of
investors can spend as little as
$1,000 to buy shares in a Vint
those wines.
3 After a set time period, often
5 to 10 years, the fund
manager sells the
5 There have also
been several
alleged cases of people
series. An early offering of a 10- wine. The investor posing as wine fund
case vertical of Château Lafite receives the managers—collecting
Rothschild covering vintages proceeds, the money and never
2010 to 2019 was priced at $120 minus fees. buying the wine.
per share. The full offering of
1,210 shares reportedly sold out
in 55 minutes. A three-bottle unit of Domaine Leroy’s Richebourg 2015, while wine investment funds may hold firm during financial market
valued at $70,000 and priced at $100 per share, also quickly sold out. downturns, they will not pay dividends or interest.
As for selling your stake in Vint, you can’t. You must wait for the fund Would-be wine investors need to watch out for fraud. Last June, the
to cash out any portfolio you may own. Vint projects, for example, that FBI arrested a British man for allegedly orchestrating a scheme that
the Lafite series will be sold between 2023 and 2027; the Richebourg swindled over $13 million from more than 150 victims in multiple states.
trio between 2025 to 2027. The proceeds, minus Vint’s “sourcing” fees Perpetrated primarily by cold calling elderly victims, the scammers
of up to 10%, will then be returned to shareholders. Last July, Vint ex- allegedly promised big profits on wine that, once purchased, would be
ecuted its first successful cash-out, selling a fifth of a collection of 284 held on behalf of clients in a bonded U.K. warehouse.
bottles called Champagne Stars. Held for just over Given the long bull market in wine prices, it
a year, the bubbly had increased in value by a per shouldn’t be a surprise that no major wine fund has
annum rate of almost 22%, according to the fund.
“Inflation and floundered. Should rough times come, however, the
Like Vinovest’s Zhang, Vint’s founder, former fears of reces- tide could turn: Instead of investors clamoring to put
banker Nicholas King, is a newcomer to the wine money into the funds, there could be a rush to take
business. “I looked out there at the wine investment sion are setting money out. As the Vint platform says, “Past perfor-
world, and it seemed opaque, inefficient and largely the scene for a mance is no guarantee of future results.”
inaccessible,” said King. “You could send $25,000 to One small but possibly tell-tale sign that the good
some guy at a fund in the U.K. and might not even testing autumn times are not perpetual: The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100
know what wines you were getting.” and winter [for index declined in July for the first time in over two
Both Vinovest and Vint, among other funds, seek years, dipping 0.3%, and the Fine Wine 50, tracking
wines from vineyard regions worldwide on behalf of wine prices].” the daily price movements of the Bordeaux first-
clients. One that does not is one of the oldest, Wine —KATHERINE HEWITT, LIV-EX growths, declined 0.9%. “Rising inflation and fears
Investment Fund. Founded in 2003, this London- of recession are undoubtedly setting the scene for a
based fund restricts its portfolio to selected vintages testing autumn and winter period,” Liv-ex’s Kather-
of just Bordeaux first-growths and “super-seconds”—360 wines in all. ine Hewitt told Wine Spectator.
“For us, it’s all about ‘risk screens,’ ” said fund co-founder Andrew della It’s no secret that a wide range of sought-after wines, especially from
Casa. While some funds buy en primeur, when wines are still in barrel, Bordeaux and Burgundy, are now unaffordable to wine lovers of mod-
della Casa won’t do that—prices are too volatile then. “Our catalog is erate means. Even those who can afford to pay for those wines may
framed by risk aversion. For that reason, we also don’t look at any prop- forego them in favor of bottles that can satisfy for far less. Does the mar-
erty that produces less than 15,000 to 20,000 cases annually. Buying keting of wine investment funds contribute to the upward spiral of
stuff is easy, but selling is tricky. So we need to focus on wines with a prices? Are they turning wines made with love and dedication into pure
deep secondary market—wines such as Latour 2000 or 2005.” commodities—like pork bellies?
The minimum investment by private investors in della Casa’s fund is The owners of RareWine Invest, a wine investment and brokerage
10,000 pounds sterling. There’s a “subscription fee” of 5%, an annual firm based in Denmark, claim the opposite. In an essay on its website
management fee of 1.5% and a performance fee, similar to what hedge called “The Wine Investor vs. the Wine Romantic,” they argue that,
funds charge. “In the pursuit of stability and returns, the wine investor contributes to
It’s normal to cast a cold eye on the fees that every wine fund takes. fewer wines being lost as a result of incorrect handling” and to “insur-
But, as Justin Gibbs, co-founder of Liv-ex, sees it, those fees can be jus- ing that more wines are drunk only when they are ready to drink.”
tified: “I can invest the money in my pension fund myself, of course,” But there’s another truth held by many a wine lover. It’s summed up
Gibbs said. “But there’s still a role for a fund manager who is spending by Rob McMillian, founder of the Wine Division at Silicon Valley Bank.
full time studying the market and making clever decisions. The same “I do get the investment side of wine,” he told Wine Spectator. “And I
applies to wine fund managers.” know people will say that certain wine prices have gone up more than,
Sad fact for U.S. investors: Unlike their U.K. counterparts, they can- say, Apple stock. Personally, I just look at wine as what I drink with
not sell a wasting asset, such as fine wine, free of capital gains tax. And friends.”

N E W S
Tornado and Hail Hit Famed IN MEMORIAM

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vineyard Louis-Fabrice Latour
Louis-Fabrice Latour, president of Maison Louis
Latour, one of Burgundy’s most prominent and
historic wine producers, died Sept. 5 of cancer. He
was 58.
“He will be missed tremendously by all the
Burgundians in general and especially by those, like
me, who have been his friend,” said Pierre-Henry
Gagey, president of Maison Louis Jadot. “He served
Burgundy with passion, integrity and intelligence.”
Latour took the reins of the house from his father in
Tornadic waterspouts are seen on the sea off Marseille
1999. Founded in 1797, the domaine’s holdings were
already enviable, comprising 114 acres of mostly
O
n Aug. 14, a violent storm and small ates Guillaume Gonnet with her winemaking
premiers and grands crus vineyards around the cellar
tornado hit the French town of husband. “The good news is that none of the
on the hill of Corton. Latour further expanded by
Bédarrides, with 120mph wind gusts vines in La Crau were uprooted and they
purchasing Simonnet-Febvre in Chablis in 2003 and
and hailstones inflicting damage in should make a full recovery for the next vin-
Henry Fessy in Beaujolais in 2008. He also initiated
vineyards along the eastern side of Châ- tage. The vineyards on this plateau are over
projects and developed vineyards in lesser-known
teauneuf-du-Pape. According to local vi- 100 years old and it would’ve been heartbreak-
areas such as Côteaux de l’Auxois, which lies between
gnerons, the primary impact was felt in La ing if they were permanently damaged.”
Dijon and Chablis, and Pierres Dorées, an area in
Crau, the famed vineyard in the southeast of Others reported that significant hailstorms
southern Beaujolais. Maison Louis Latour produces
the appellation; wineries such as Vieux Télé- pummeled the neighboring village of Courthé-
about 750,000 cases a year, making it one of the
graphe, Château La Nerthe, Château de Na- zon and damaged surrounding vineyards, yet
largest négociants in Burgundy.
lys, Domaine La Boutinière and Guillaume said Benoit Lavau of Maison Lavau, which
Gonnet source fruit from this lieu-dit for their farms vineyards across the Southern Rhône,
top cuvées. “On the other side of Châteauneuf, at Châ-
“We estimate that we have lost today be- teau Maucoil, we did not even have any hail,
tween 70% to 90% of the grapes in our Vieux The storm was very localized.”
Télégraphe plots,” says Daniel Brunier, head Southern Rhône vignerons remain optimis-
of his namesake family’s estate. Brunier de- tic about the 2022 vintage. Brunier and others
scribes the vineyard—where his family has are looking on the bright side, grateful that the
grown grapes since 1890—as “completely Mistral winds have been “blowing intensely
shredded; not a leaf is left. Only a few partially ever since the tornado,” so the ripe fruit that
bruised grapes remain attached to the vine.” survived will be dry and rot-free. “Luckily, our
As a result, Vieux Télégraphe Blanc 2022 will profession is one of passion,” said Brunier,
not be produced, he reports, adding that it’s “which enables us to see the positive side.”
still too early to tell if any Vieux Télégraphe — Kristen Bieler
Rouge 2022 can be made.
“The grapes themselves are de- LATEST WINE INDUSTRY NEWS
Keep up with the stories wine lovers are “My grandfather once said, ‘Never invest in a
stroyed and so are the leaves,” said talking about WineSpectator.com/News place you can’t [get to] before lunch,’” Latour told
Kelly Gonnet, who owns and oper-
Wine Spectator in a 2016 interview. “Me, I’m a great
believer from a strategic point of view. So it’s true
our new frontier is our backdoor, our backyard.”
Spotted Lanternfly: Squash at Will Under Latour’s direction, both the domaine and
Eight years after it was first discovered in the U.S., in négociant wines improved. Adjustments were
Pennsylvania, the spotted lanternfly (SLF), a mothlike insect made in the vineyards and cellar. Latour’s Corton-
TOP TO BOTTOM: SOPA IMAGES/GETTY; MICHEL JOLY; GH PHOTOS/ALAMY
from southern China, has spread to at least 12 states. Vintners in Charlemagne 2018 was Wine Spectator’s No. 6
the Eastern U.S. are already dealing with damage to vines, while Wine of 2021.
West Coast vintners are nervous; one study has projected that the Latour, born Feb. 29, 1964, was the 11th generation
insect will reach California by 2027. A relatively slow traveler but prolific to run the firm, and the seventh Louis. His youthful
breeder, SLF (Lycorma delicatula) is not really a fly. It’s more of a hopper charm and humor belied his forward-thinking vision
that leaps from destination to destination. It doesn’t eat vines, but uses its for the company and dedication to the wines of
proboscis to reach the sweet sap inside, drinking its contents and leaving Burgundy.
behind a sticky waste that coats the plant, disrupting photosynthesis and attracting He is survived by his wife, Patricia, and their four
mold. The insect also threatens trees such as almond, apple, cherry, walnut and pine. What do children, Eléonore, Louis, Victor and Gaspard; his
officials advise anyone who finds the bug to do? “Kill ‘em! Squash ’em, smash ’em ... just get rid of sister, Virginie, and brothers, Alexis and Florent.
’em,” pleads the Pennsylvania Dept. of Agriculture. —Lynn Alley —Bruce Sanderson

T A S T E S
The Great Italian Caper

BY OWEN DUGAN
Y
ou don’t need to know everything
about capers to appreciate their
importance in classic dishes, such
as chicken piccata and puttanesca
sauce, and the flavor they bring to support-
ing sides, such as rice and potatoes. The
flavor and effect of capers is somewhere be-
tween green olives and mustard, to which
they are related. They’ll never be the star,
but they add bursts of bright piquancy.
Capers are the flower buds of a low-grow-
ing plant. Typically, the tiny buds are har-
vested and brined in vinegar. They can also
be preserved in salt, which rinses away more
easily than vinegar does, so you get a more
direct caper flavor. If the buds are allowed
to blossom and then wither away, a caper- Capers harvested on Pantelleria, an Italian island between Tunisia and Sicily
berry will grow in their place. They can be
TOP: DE AGOSTINI VIA GETTY IMAGES; BOTTOM: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO

used just like the olives they resemble. in pits to protect them from the sirocco—hot, dust-laden winds. But it
The best Italian capers we’ve found are grown on the islands of Salina, makes the harvest difficult. Hand-picking is done stooped over, starting
north of Sicily, and Pantelleria, between Sicily and Africa. (Capers grow before dawn and then taking an eight-hour break when the midday heat
across the Mediterranean, and the majority found in the U.S. are from becomes unbearable. Finally, they’re packed in salt, usually from nearby
Turkey.) They love hot weather and volcanic soil, which these islands Trapani, to brine. By the time they get to us, the cure is complete.
have an abundance of. The plants look like big green starfish against the And ours will begin. Once you try them, you will find yourself giving
ground, which is important in Pantelleria, where grapevines are grown vinegary capers the heave-ho.
HOW HOW TO GET IT CARAVAGLIO SALINA CAPERS (olio2go.com; 3.2

TO LA NICCHIA PANTELLERIA CAPERS (gustiamo. ounces for $10) These Salina capers have a direct herbaceous
USE com; 3.5 ounces for $15) Pantelleria grows a variety of ca- aroma and a somewhat more direct
Rinse capers well pers not found elsewhere. The result is notably floral and flavor profile than the
under running bright, and has a substantial texture. They’re also the only Pantelleria ones.
water, then taste. IGP certified capers in Italy.
If they’re still too LA NICCHIA PANTELLERIA CAPERBERRIES
salty, soak them (gustiamo.com; 1.1 pounds for $35) The flavor is like a cit-
for 30 minutes in rusy olive with a pronounced salty tang that will have you
cool water, then reaching for your glass of Grillo or Zibibbo. If that’s too
rinse again. much, don’t just rinse them; soak them overnight.
“Capers to me are like olive oil in the CELESTINO

DRAGO’S
kitchen; you gotta have them all the CAPER OIL
time. I don’t use capers in vinegar. Soak half a pound of capers in
Mostly I use Salina capers in salt. Once water, draining and resoaking a
you take the salt out and drain them, few times. Taste to make sure
they’re so pungent. It’s unbelievable.” they’re not salty. Drain and gently
press dry. Add to half a liter of olive
—CELESTINO DRAGO, CHEF AND OWNER OF
DRAGO CENTRO AND OTHER RESTAURANTS IN L.A. oil in a bain-marie, bring to about
90° F and let cook for 7 to 8 minutes.
WINE MATCHING While the oil and capers are still warm,
You will match mostly to the primary protein, but wines as put in a blender to combine. Refrigerate at
Mediterranean in character as capers will work best. With dishes such least overnight to infuse. Warm gently, then
as tuna tartare or grilled fish dressed in oil, the caper flavor will be strain through cheesecloth, discarding solids.
prominent, so pair with a light-bodied white from Sicily and its Serve over tuna tartare or any other way you might
environs such as the Poggio Anima Grillo Sicilia Uriel 2020 (88, $16). use olive oil.

A U C T I O N S
V Foundation Wine Celebration Raises

Nearly $6.5 Million for Cancer Research
BY KENNY MARTIN
he 24th annual V Foundation Wine Celebration,
T which brought more than 450 wine lovers to Nickel

& Nickel winery in Oakville, Calif., on Aug. 6,
raised nearly $6.5 million for cancer research.
The auction was one of several events in a weekend
celebrating the legacy of Jim Valvano, the basketball
player, coach and ESPN broadcaster known as Jimmy V,
who died of cancer in 1993. Since 1999, the auction has
Above: NFL’s Denon Still (left) hosts with college

basketball coach Mike Krzyzewski. Left: World high-
jump champion Chaunté Lowepic inspires the crowd.
which featured magnums of Nickel &

Nickel Branding Iron and CC Ranch Cab-
raised more than $137 million to support the V Founda- ernet Sauvignon in addition to Wimble-
tion’s total of more than $290 million in research grants don tickets, luxury lodging in Oxfordshire
awarded nationwide. “Jim Valvano’s legacy impels us to and lunch with Sarah, Duchess of York.
‘never give up,’ and courage was definitely the theme this Another lot included a Melchior, or 18-li-
year,” said Wine Celebration founder Julie Maples. ter bottle, of Kathryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2008.
All of this year’s 25 live-auction lots included wine, and many of the In addition to the auction, the weekend included a gala dinner, the
most sought-after lots featured large-format bottles. The top lot was a Answer for Cancer Symposium and the Rock the V party at The Estate
Methuselah, or 6-liter bottle, of Screaming Eagle 1992. The bottle, Yountville. The weekend was hosted by former Duke men’s basketball
which sold for $270,000, was donated by Screaming Eagle founder Jean coach Mike Krzyzewski and former NFL defensive end Devon Still. Of
Phillips in memory of Ron Kuhn, the founder of Pillar Rock and a long- note was the Title IX luncheon, which celebrated the 50th anniversary
time supporter of the Wine Celebration. Only two such bottles were of the landmark civil rights law facing down sexual discrimination in
produced from the 1992 vintage. public-funded sports programs. Athletes in attendance included Kikkan
Other highlights included “The Royal Treatment at Wimbledon,” Randall, an Olympic champion in cross-country skiing.
AUCTION OF WASHINGTON WINES RAISES $4 MILLION

In August, Auction of Washington Wines Vital Wines, a nonprofit winery “dedicated
(AWW) celebrated its 35th year by raising to ensuring vineyard and winery workers
$4 million for Seattle Children’s Hospital, are recognized, valued, and have access to
the Washington State University Viticulture healthcare and other important resources.”
TOP: COURTESY V FOUNDATION WINE CELEBRATION (3); BOTTOM: CURBOW PHOTO
and Enology program and industry grant The live auction gala raised more than
partner Vital Wines. Most events were held $1 million. The top lot, which sold for
live on the grounds of Chateau Ste. Mi- $250,000, was “Best of Bordeaux,” a five-
chelle. “For our 35th annual gala, we had night trip with DeLille Cellars founding wine-
the added bonus of being able to gather maker Chris Upchurch. “Antinori Classico,”
again in one large tent, and the energy in also combined luxury travel and wine, offer-
Collectible bottles helped up the ante at the AWW gala.
the room was palpable,” said Laura Klein- ing two trips to the Antinori vineyards in
hofs, AWW associate director. This year’s festivi- any children’s hospital in the country. The Viticul- Tuscany to “discover the roots of Col Solare,” a
ties brought AWW’s cumulative fundraising total ture and Enology program at Washington State partnership between Antinori and Ste. Michelle.
to over $59 million. University is a leader in winemaking and grape- A whimsical lot generated some of the most
Seattle Children’s serves as the pediatric and growing education. AWW launched its Industry frenzied bidding: Low numbers of the newly de-
adolescent medical center for Washington, Grant program in 2018, focusing on a different lo- signed Washington Wine license plates garnered
Alaska, Montana and Idaho, the largest region of cal philanthropy each year. The latest recipient is $35,000 each. —K.M.

W I N E F O C U S
New Zealand’s New Normal

The country’s wineries move forward after a series of challenges
BY MARYANN WOROBIEC
T
he landscape of New Zealand
wine is certainly different than it
was before the COVID pandemic,
but resilient winemakers remain
focused on the terrific wines they make.
Harvest levels for 2022 returned to nor-
mal after a difficult 2021 season, and
Kiwi winemakers are doing what they do
best, making affordable, expressive, cool-
climate wines with a strong commitment
to sustainability and leadership in the
“better for you” wine category.
This small wine-producing region
faced many of the issues the rest of the
world did over the past three years: ris-
ing costs for transportation and labor.
The sparsely populated country relies on
overseas workers for harvest staffing, but
COVID-related border restrictions
added complications, and cases of Omi- The Marlborough vineyards of pioneering producer Cloudy Bay
cron peaked in tandem with the 2022
harvest, putting stress on an already-strained labor supply. Not only did Speaking of biodynamics, the commitment by the New Zealand wine-
harvest 2021 deplete inventories, but shipping became unreliable and making community to environmental measures continues. According
supply chains got tangled. to New Zealand Winegrowers, more than 96% of the country’s vine-
Vintage whiplash gives these challenges context. Whereas 2021 was yards are new certified as sustainable through the Sustainable Wine-
marked by exceptional quality but dramatically reduced yields in most growing New Zealand certification program. Some winemakers tell me
areas (resulting in an overall drop in volume of 20% or more), 2022 saw they feel this bar is low—many vintners are practicing more restrictive
an impressive rebound, with 532,000 tons of grapes harvested—com- organic and biodynamic principals. “ ‘Regenerative agriculture’ is the
pared with only 370,000 tons in 2021. new buzzword,” explains Loveblock’s Erika Crawford. “But we’ve been
Demand for New Zealand wines remains still strong. Although over- doing it for years as organic producers.”
all exports were down by volume and value, Kiwi wine exports to the There’s also the New Zealand Winegrowers Lighter Wines Initiative.
U.S. hit new highs in 2021, up more than 7%, with 6.8 million cases The seven-year program focusing on lower-alcohol wines has wrapped
worth of New Zealand wines brought into the country, according to the up, but the results are increasingly found on wineshop shelves. There
U.S. Commerce Department. was NZ$18 in investments (US$11 million) into research and devel-
More than 95% of Kiwi wine shipments to the U.S. are white wines, opment to make the country a leader in the no-, low- and lower-alcohol
with all but 5% of those Sauvignon Blanc, according to Impact Data- category (one of the fastest-growing sectors in wine).
bank, a sister publication of Wine Spectator. Based on my recent tastings, The country was already known for making light, fresh wines from
I see the country’s Sauvignon Blancs moving in two concurrent direc- slow-ripening grapes in cool climates that can result in lower sugars and
tions: on one side are the consistent, high-volume, affordable bottlings, alcohols. Now the focus is on wines in the 8.5% to 10% alcohol by vol-
and on the other side are a handful of smaller brands pushing the en- ume, using techniques such as canopy management and the selection
velope in quality and varietal expression, including Craggy Range, Grey- of particular yeast strains. Wine from this “better for you” category are
wacke, Astrolabe, Cloudy Bay, Dog Point, Ant Moore and others. expected to grow to 10% of export sales by 2030.
New Zealand Pinot Noir has been slowly increasing its presence in According to another sister publication, Shanken News Daily, among
the U.S., but if you look at the results of our blind tastings, the coun- this growing category, Kim Crawford’s Illuminate label sold more than
try’s Pinots should be dominating the conversation. Of the more than 100,000 cases in the U.S. last year. Matua Lighter debuted at 22,000
150 wines I have reviewed since my previous report (“Demand and Sup- cases in 2021, while Brancott Estate’s Flight Song added another 20,000
ply,” Oct. 31, 2021), four earned classic ratings of 95 or more points on cases to this wellness segment. Meanwhile, Giesen has made a substan-
Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale—all of them Pinot Noir. tial foray into the premium non-alcoholic wine segment, with a target
Three of these Pinot Noirs are from Burn Cottage. “The release of of 30,000 cases among its range of 0% Sauvignon Blanc, rosé, red blend
the vintages 2019 and 2020 are the 11th and 12th releases of the Burn and Pinot Gris bottlings. I tasted these wines informally and thought
Cottage vineyard, which was biodynamically managed since inception,” the Sauvignon Blanc was the strongest in the lineup.
says sales manager Andy Crozier. “I think we are starting to see the cu- While price tags inch up for New Zealand wines to accommodate the
mulation of the vines getting some age under their belt.” added production costs, brands priced at $15 and above are driving the

W I N E F O C U S
growth of wines available in the U.S. But despite the

popularity of the largest brands sold here (Kim Crawford,
Oyster Bay, Matua, Whitehaven and Nobilo), nearly
90% of the 731 wineries in New Zealand are “small”
(producing fewer than 22,000 cases annually, according
to New Zealand Winegrowers), giving U.S. consumers
a somewhat skewed view of the country.
The outlook for the 2022 vintage, which is just start-
ing to hit our market, is positive. There was a cool start
to the season, with some rain resulting in a later harvest
but also bigger berries and bunches. This will restore
depleted New Zealand wine stocks and stave off some of
the alarmist reports that the U.S. was going to run out
of one of its favorite wines. That is not the case, and the
wines continue to flow.
“You know there are some pretty darn good Pinots—
and wines in general—that are coming out of New Zea-
land,” sums up Burn Cottage owner Marquis Sauvage. “I
Robin and Andréa McBride are making outstanding wines under their McBride Sisters label.
am ecstatic that people are finally taking note.”
MARYANN WOROBIEC’S RECOMMENDED WINES FROM NEW ZEALAND

More than 150 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/NewZealandAlpha111522.
WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search.
WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE
BURN COTTAGE Pinot Noir Central Otago 96 $65 CLOUDY BAY Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand Te Koko 2019 93 $60
Burn Cottage Vineyard 2019 Sleek and mouthwatering, showing intensity and focus, with good
Aromatic and expressive, with tarragon, sage and white pepper notes purity to the yuzu, vetevier, sea salt, Meyer lemon and ginger flavors.
mingling with juicy red fruit flavors. Clearly defined and focused.
CRAGGY RANGE Pinot Noir Martinborough 2019 93 $29
BURN COTTAGE Pinot Noir Central Otago 96 $45 Fresh and vibrant, with strawberry, raspberry and açaí berry flavors
Moonlight Race 2020 on a silky frame. Offers intensity but also a lovely sense of elegance.
Aromatic, succulent, fresh and distinctive, with fleshy black cherry,
blueberry and marionberry flavors on a delicate, juicy frame. DOG POINT Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019 93 $42
Shows salted caramel, maraschino cherry and wild blackberry and
BURN COTTAGE Pinot Noir Central Otago 95 $65 blueberry flavors that are plush and robust on a long, velvety frame.
Bannockburn Sauvage Vineyard 2019
Shows wonderful density, with muscular tannins backing dried black DOG POINT Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Section 94 2019 93 $38
cherry, spiced plum, date bread, chai tea, cardamom and bay leaf. Fleshy and succulent, but with crisp acidity, showing notes of lanolin,
litsea oil, honeysuckle, lemon curd, lime sherbet and chamomile.
CRAGGY RANGE Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough 94 $25
Te Muna 2021 GREYWACKE Chardonnay Marlborough 2018 93 $39
Aromatic and complex, showing off pure grapefruit, lemongrass, A rich, complex white, with a fragrant smoky accent to the fresh,
passion fruit and dried pineapple flavors, with a sleek, juicy finish. vibrant Meyer lemon, pear and lime sorbet notes on a sleek frame.
GREYWACKE Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 94 $23 KUMEU RIVER Chardonnay Kumeu Coddington 2020 93 $48
Aromatic, fresh and intense, this stunning white offers mouthwatering Vibrant and expressive, with flavors of pear, yellow apple and dried
notes of lemon curd, yuzu, peach, ripe melon and honeysuckle. apricot flavors that show touches of honeycomb and salted almond.
KUMEU RIVER Chardonnay Kumeu Hunting Hill 2020 94 $60 KUMEU RIVER Chardonnay Kumeu Maté’s Vineyard 2020 93 $69
Powerful and fragrant, showing roasted pineapple, apricot and yellow A rich white, with appealing ripeness to the Fuji apple, white peach,
peach flavors that are ripe, juicy and fleshy, with terrific intensity. lemon curd and spice flavors, backed by firm acidity.
ASTROLABE Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 93 $25 LOVEBLOCK Pinot Noir Central Otago 2020 93 $36
Kekerengu Coast 2020
Fresh and lively, revealing a pretty floral note of violet, with cherry,
Shows beautiful precision, with yuzu, pomelo and Fuji apple flavors plum and robust tobacco flavors. Harmonious and powerful.
that are crisp and focused, backed by green tea and white pepper. RIPPON Pinot Noir Central Otago Emma’s Block 93 $90
Mature Vine Lake Wanaka 2019
CLOUDY BAY Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019 93 $40
There’s nice intensity and purity to the black cherry, spiced plum and There’s nice precision and purity to the blood orange, maraschino
COURTESY MCBRIDE SISTERS COLLECTION
wild berry flavors, with warm spices lingering on the finish. cherry, cranberry and matcha notes, with a long, expressive finish.
CLOUDY BAY Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 93 $33 MCBRIDE SISTERS COLLECTION Sauvignon Blanc 92 $17
Marlborough 2020
Intense and fresh, with green apple, dried pineapple, candied ginger
and lemon curd flavors that show hints of melon and lemon verbena. Generous, intense and plump, with peach, mango and citrus flavors
that are crisp and fresh, followed by a mouthwatering finish.

S A V V Y S H O P P E R
BENANTI Etna Rosato 2021 (90, $26) Fresh,
Kiwi Strong balanced; macerated cherry, strawberry, iron, SPECTATOR
New Zealand’s one-two punch of Pinot Noir smoke, cured tobacco SELECTIONS
and Sauvignon Blanc is the country’s claim CANTINA NALS MARGREID Pinot Grigio Alto
to vinous fame. These examples provide am- Adige Hill 2021 (90, $22) Nectarine, clementine,
ple proof. The Burn Cottage Moonlight Race white blossoms, slivered almond; lively, creamy H I GH LY RECOM M E N D E D
is on the pricier side for a value wine, but its
CANTINA TERLANO Pinot Bianco Alto Adige 95 NICOLAS-JAY
ratio of quality to price is worth showcasing. Tradition 2021 (90, $24) Bright, snappy; kiwifruit, Pinot Noir
melon, chalk, stone, tangerine, jasmine, ginger McMinnville
BURN COTTAGE Pinot Noir Central Otago
Momtazi 2019
Moonlight Race 2020 (96, $45) Aromatic, CANTINA TERLANO Pinot Grigio Alto Adige
$90 OREGON
succulent, fresh; black cherry, dark berry, clove Tradition 2021 (90, $26) Yellow peach, star fruit,
A wine of dimension and detail, this is the
cigarette, white truffle, chai, lavender blanched almond, stone, smoke; crunchy, zesty
complete package, with polished, multilayered
CRAGGY RANGE Sauvignon Blanc Martinbor- ELENA WALCH Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2021 flavors of raspberry, blueberry, orange peel and
ough Te Muna 2021 (94, $25) Grapefruit, lemon- (90, $18) Kiwifruit, pear, orchard blossoms, dusky spices that build richness and tension.
grass, passion fruit, dried pineapple, matcha, sea ginger, blood orange, stone; bright, balanced
salt, ginger, mint; sleek, complex
FEUDO MONTONI Catarratto Sicilia Masso 2021
CRAGGY RANGE Pinot Noir Martinborough 2019 (90, $24) Lithe, mouthwatering; Asian pear, COLL ECT I BL E
(93, $29) Vibrant, silky, savory; wild strawberry, nectarine, elderflower, mineral, honeycomb 97 MAYACAMAS
raspberry, açaí berry, forest floor, spice, tarragon
VALLE DELL’ACATE Nero d’Avola Sicilia Il Moro Cabernet Sauvignon
ANT MOORE Pinot Noir Marlborough Signature 2017 (90, $30) Fresh, balanced; black plum, Mount Veeder 2018 $150
Series 2019 (92, $19) Cherry, plum, cola, earth, black currant, Mediterranean herbs, white CALIFORNIA
sarsaparilla, spice, black licorice; firm, expressive pepper, mineral, iron, smoke This distinctive version
ANT MOORE Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ZISOLA Noto 2020 (90, $20) Crushed black leads with pine forest,
Signature Series 2021 (92, $16) Refreshing, cherry, wild strawberry, dried sage, espresso, bay leaf and savory notes,
complex; Fuji apple, passion fruit, lemon curd, smoke, spice; well-knit, elegant with a core of steeped currant and bitter plum
sea salt, peach, green tea, ginger fruit, plus ample tobacco and warm stone.
ELENA WALCH Pinot Bianco Alto Adige 2021 Shows range, character and energy to spare.
BLALOCK + MOORE Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor- (89, $18) Refreshing, creamy; ripe pear, dogwood
ough 2021 (92, $16) Pomelo, yuzu, ruby grape- blossoms, Meyer lemon peel, stone, flint
fruit, mineral, green tea; distinctive, intense
FEUDO DI SANTA TRESA Frappato Terre Sicil- SMART BUY
CATALINA SOUNDS Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor- iane Rina Russa 2021 (89, $15) Wild strawberry,
ough 2021 (92, $25) Pure, succulent; pear, apple, herbs, red licorice, spiced orange; light, fresh 92 PLANETA
lemon curd, lemon verbena, lemongrass, yuzu Cerasuolo di Vittoria
TASCA D’ALMERITA Nero d’Avola Sicilia Sallier 2020 $24 ITALY
DOG POINT Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 de la Tour 2020 (89, $16) Generous; dark berry, Lightly toasty on the
(92, $26) Peach, honeysuckle, cherry, licorice, spice box, tar nose, less so on the pal-
jasmine, melon, apricot, lemon ate, with a pure beam
curd; aromatic, vibrant
LINDEN Sauvignon Blanc
Mendoza Magic of raspberry coulis fruit
flavors layered with a minerally underpinning
The defacto capital of Argen- of smoke and graphite. A fresh, classy version.
Hawke’s Bay Nuku 2021 (92,
$20) Focused, intense; yuzu,
tina’s wine industry, Mendoza Nero d’Avola and Frappato.
ginger, lemon verbena, orange and its environs are the source
blossom, mineral, sea salt of many of the country’s top
red wines. But don’t overlook BE ST VA LUE
TOHU Sauvignon Blanc Awatere
Valley 2021 (92, $16) Peach,
the region’s whites, which are
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These reds and whites span EL ENEMIGO Sémillon Mendoza
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JAMES MOLESWO RT H
New Beaulieu: Righting the Ship
B
eaulieu Vineyard is one From there we head to BV1, which
of California’s legendary now totals 130 acres; 80 planted. It’s
names. Founder Georges prime dirt, with Inglenook and the
de Latour purchased a Hewitt vineyard nearby. Some of the
property in Rutherford blocks here are still on a north-south
in 1900 to start a cream of tartar busi- row orientation, and Durling has had
ness, but wound up adding acreage to tweak the canopy management to
and vines to the estate. In 1904, Beau- get more shade on the afternoon side.
lieu Vineyard was officially born. An- In the cellar, Durling has made a
dré Tchelistcheff joined as winemaker shift to lighter toast on the barrels and
in 1938 and was there until 1973, a reduced maceration times, which were
tenure that produced what would be- as long as 60 days on some lots. Some
come one of the valley’s benchmark Hungarian and American oak barrels
wines—the Georges de Latour Private are still used on the Napa Cabernet
Reserve Cabernet. bottling, but the top cuvées now see
Things began to shift when Heu- only French oak. And Durling has also
blein purchased BV in 1969. Some of reduced the percentage of fruit being
BV’s top vineyards were sold, including barrel fermented on its skins. “It’s a
the BV3 vineyard and the BV4, in good technique for texture,” says Durl-
Oakville’s famed To Kalon Vineyard. ing, “but if it’s overused it can mask the
When TCA-taint issues arose in 2002, fruit and savory aspects of the wine.”
it seemed BV’s best days were behind it. New ownership since 2015 and The Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet
A new winery facility was built in the 2017 arrival of winemaker Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 is fresh,
2007, dedicated to the de Latour bot- direct and focused, with red currant and
tling, and from there the wines were
Trevor Durling has the winery cherry coulis notes racing through, dot-
solid, but not in the league of the glory back on track for quality. ted with savory, floral and tobacco ac-
days of the de Latour bottlings from cents. Judicious toast on the finish lets
the 1960s and 1970s. the fruit play out, and there’s solid en-
In 2015, BV was purchased by Treasury Estates and, despite ergy throughout. At $33, it’s a rock-solid buy in Napa Cabernet.
not having a background in wine, then CEO Michael Clarke The Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Georges de Latour Pri-
helped turn the company’s finances and focus around (current vate Reserve 2019 is hands down the best version in years. It keeps
CEO Tim Ford has continued the trend). Then, in 2017, Trevor to its historically dark, winey style, with a core of gently steeped
Durling left Provenance to take over winemaking at BV, coincid- black currant and blackberry fruit flavors that tumble around with
ing with the departure of consultant Michel Rolland. warm earth, dark licorice and roasted alder. There’s nice contrast
Standing in the middle of BV2, bought by BV in 1910 and lo- from a flash of violet, and the tightly focused, dust-tinged structure
cated in the Rutherford AVA, Durling points out the boundaries is terroir-driven. It’s a wine that will reward cellaring.
of the 129 acres of vines. There’s a replanting program rolling “I’m loving this vintage,” says Durling of the 2019s. “De-
along now, though Durling is keeping the slightly offset north- layed budbreak, cool nights, warm days and no heat spikes. I was
east-southwest row orientation in place. “I didn’t come in here able to extend picking into mid- and late-October and get the
to overhaul winemaking or the vineyards, but rather to tweak,” full phenolic ripeness and texture that I like all without losing
says Durling, 40. “These vineyards are well-established. What I acidity. The wines are a touch savory with no jammy notes. I
am looking for is trying to get freshness into the wines.” think the changes in canopy management have helped.”
To that end, Durling has tweaked the clonal selection. There’s It’s not easy getting a large winery operation turned in a new
still a strong reliance on clones 4, 6, 7 and 8—the workhorses of direction, especially one with the weight of history and reputa-
most Napa Cabs. But Durling is also adding some clone 169. tion. And changes in a vineyard or cellar, whether wholesale or
“[169] is elegant and aromatic, with floral and blue fruit notes. just tweaks, take years to be fully apparent in the wines. But
And it really holds onto its acid,” says Durling. “Looking at back Durling’s ’19s have clearly moved the needle, and this is likely
RICK WENNER
vintages of de Latour, the ’68 is one of my favorites. The level of the starting point for a new era at this historic Napa winery.
acidity in the older wines is a signpost for me.” James Molesworth has been with Wine Spectator since 1997.

TI M FI SH
Rethinking Zinfandel in Sonoma
P
ete Seghesio thought he’d been an issue. Seghesio himself saw
grow Zinfandel all his life. what was happening.
The Seghesio name is “The world does not need another
synonymous with Zinfan- jammy, raisiny Zinfandel,” he says.
del in California’s So- “Zinfandel likes cool and foggy nights,
noma County, and his mom’s side of otherwise it collapses before it’s fully
the family, the Passalacquas, has been ripened.” Seghesio is not ready to aban-
in the Zin business for just as long— don his family’s Alexander Valley vine-
125 years or more. yard homestead any time soon, but he
Francesco Passalacqua, Seghesio’s is adapting. He turned to vineyard vet-
great-grandfather, purchased San Lo- eran Phil Freese to help him re-envi-
renzo Vineyard, just north of Healds- sion San Lorenzo. “Looking at the tem-
burg, in 1896, using 10 gold coins he’d perature data, we know we’re getting
saved while cooking for Gold Rush warmer here. Our part of Sonoma
miners. The deed, which Seghesio has County is becoming closer to Oakville
framed on his wall, mentions a young [in Napa Valley],” Seghesio says.
Zinfandel vineyard: That original 5.5- Part of the solution is building a res-
acre plot of Zin, called “The Pearl” af- ervoir on the ranch. Previously, Seghe-
ter Seghesio’s late mother, Rachel sio and other growers could rely on the
Ann, remains, with only about 15% of waters of the Russian River to irrigate
the vines replanted, with the identical when needed, but years of drought
genetic material. Seghesio, a family and winery have strained that resource. Regional
But just about everything else at his- synonymous with the grape, authorities are increasingly limiting
toric San Lorenzo Vineyard is chang- the amount of water for agriculture.
ing, and the reasons are many. It
is making changes in response Seghesio also started pulling out
started when the Seghesio family sold to climate shifts in the region. Zinfandel on the southern slope of San
the winery in 2011 to Napa-based Lorenzo and three years ago began
Crimson Wine Group, in a deal nego- planting 12 acres on the north-facing
tiated by Pete, who was then CEO. It seemed a smooth transi- slope of the ranch. “Those vineyards on the south side were run-
tion but it was more contentious under the surface, as is often ning out of gas. It’s about 10% to 15% cooler on the north side,”
the case with winemaking families. Pete retained San Lorenzo, he says. A big chunk of that is Zin. After the 2022 vintage, the
since it was an heirloom of his mother’s family, and started sell- plot devoted to Rock Garden will be pulled out on the south side
ing grapes to other wineries in addition to the Seghesio brand, and production will shift over the hill to the north.
including Ridge. When the replanting comes on line in 2024, the percentage of
A more significant reason, Seghesio tells me, is that Alexan- Zin will have decreased from 80% in 2011 to 23%. “I didn’t even
der Valley is getting hotter, like most of California. “Climate realize it was that much,” Seghesio says, as he compared the
change is a very real thing,” Seghesio says. “Fifty years ago Rus- numbers. What’s replacing all that Zinfandel? Cabernet Sauvi-
sian River Valley was a fringe area for Zinfandel, but it’s becom- gnon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, plus a little Sauvignon Blanc. “I
ing a prime spot.” Seghesio sees the effects now and is planning believe we’re moving more to the Bordeaux spectrum,” he says.
for the future. The 50-acre San Lorenzo vineyard originally ran “They’re happier handling the warm days and nights.”
down a south-facing slope to an oxbow in the Russian River. There’s already homes for his new Bordeaux bounty, including
When Northern Sonoma was cooler 50 years ago, that allowed Silver Oak and winemaker Jesse Katz’s Aperture and Devil Proof
for maximum sun exposure and soothing fog from the river. labels. And Seghesio, who already produces Chardonnay under
But the fog is now fleeting and summer days are increasingly his Journeyman label, plans to make his own Malbec blend and
mercurial, and the change has been obvious since Seghesio will use the Sauvignon Blanc for his own small bottling. “My
launched his San Lorenzo label with the 2014 vintage. I gave wife, Cathy, just loves Sauvignon Blanc,” he says, “and I really
The Pearl 2016 a 97-point rating on Wine Spectator’s 100-point love Argentinian Malbec. I’m not a big fan of Bordeaux varieties
RICK WENNER
scale, calling it “bold, vibrant and brilliantly structured.” No in general, but as a grower, there’s no alternative as I see it.”
Zinfandel has equaled that, but in recent years overripeness has Senior editor Tim Fish has been with Wine Spectator since 2001.

THE
WONDER
PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFF HARRIS

YEARS { }
CALIFORNIA
CABERNET
REPORT
WITH THE 97-POINT 2019

VINTAGE, NAPA CABERNET
FILLS THE MARKET WITH
EXCEPTIONAL WINES
BY JAMES MOLESWORTH

The 2018 vintage set a high
water mark for California
Cabernet. The year was defined by wines that
show a distinctly terroir-driven persona, rippling with
energy and offering remarkable precision. This is hands
down the new benchmark vintage. By any measure, it
would be hard to duplicate its level of success. But 2019
is going to try anyway.
“I’m loving this vintage,” Beaulieu Vineyard wine-
maker Trevor Durling told me as we tasted through a
selection of the winery’s 2019s this past summer. “I was
able to extend picking into mid- and late October and
get the full phenolic ripeness and texture that I like—all
without losing acidity.”
Durling joined the Rutherford winery in 2017, and
since then he’s tweaked the farming in the estate’s
historic vineyards and fine-tuned the winemaking. The
results have begun to show, with quality on an upward
trajectory. The Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley Georges de Latour Private Reserve 2019
(93 points, $145) is the highest-rated version of this
famed bottling since the 2010. And the winery’s Caber-
net Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 (92, $33) is one of the
best values in this report. Both wines showcase the vin-
tage’s signature profile, delivering a pure, driven beam
of fruit without being top-heavy.
Since my previous report on California Cabernet (“The
Beauty of Cabernet,” Nov. 15, 2021), I have reviewed
more than 800 wines via blind tastings in our Napa of-
fice, nearly 775 of them based on Cabernet Sauvignon
and another 30 in which Cabernet Franc takes the lead.
The vast majority come from Napa Valley, though So-
noma Valley and the Santa Cruz Mountains also deliver
some top bottlings, while other AVAs around the state
contribute a small percentage of wines to the mix.
More than half of the wines under review come from
the 2019 vintage, with five dozen of them earning clas-
sic ratings of 95 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s Since coming aboard Beaulieu Vineyard in 2017, winemaker Trevor Durling has been raising quality at
100-point scale. Based on the results of my tastings, as the storied Napa estate, which delivered outstanding results in the 2019 vintage.
well as discussions with numerous winemakers, I give the
2019 vintage an overall rating of 97 points. Also included in this As a pair, these two vintages offer California Cabernet fans an em-
report are an additional 300 wines barrassment of riches right now.
CALIFORNIA’S from 2018 that I reviewed after “2018 and 2019 are the best back-to-back vintages this century,
MAJOR filing last year’s report. absolutely,” says Andy Smith, winemaker at DuMol. “They’re quite
different in style. 2018 is more upright, taut—and they need to be
CABERNET
H
Sonoma
ow close is the race held for their future promise. 2019 is more up front, with less struc-
Napa
REGIONS between 2018 and ture but more body. It’s a vintage with enveloping richness, more
•Napa 2019? Of the nearly fruit and less savory than ’18.”
800 Cabernets I have reviewed The DuMol Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville Meteor Vineyard
Pacific •San Francisco
from 2018, an impressive 77% 2019 (94, $140) is another prime example of the vintage’s beauti-
Ocean San
Francisco earned outstanding ratings of 90 ful fruit profile, offering lovely flavors of açaí berry, blueberry and
Bay
points or higher. That figure violet, with a subtle racy edge thanks to a cool cast iron accent
Santa Cruz would seem hard to compete underneath—a hallmark of Coombsville terroir.
Mountains
with—and yet, of the more than At the top of the pack among the 2019s is the Schrader Cellars
N 450 2019s I have tasted so far, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley CCS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vine-
0 miles 50
75% received scores of 90-plus. yard 2019 (98, $475). Winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown makes

TASTING REPORT | CALIFORNIA CABERNET
The cooler weather experienced by St. Helena winery Corison in 2019 produced a trio of excellent wines showing sleekness, focus and balance.
the wine entirely from clone 4 Cabernet sourced from Andy Beck- “We dealt with a surge of growth in the canopy that required
stoffer’s parcel of the famed To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville. Clone a lot of effort to rein in and stay on top of,” says Colgin Cellars
4 is known for its lush, fleshy texture and more approachable tan- winemaker Allison Tauziet. “But that canopy growth meant more
nins, which dovetail perfectly with the vintage’s fruit-driven pro- acidity in the end.”
file. The wine throws off a range of sassafras, chaparral and anise The harvest also came after a ripening period that was idyllic,
aromas before yielding up a prodigious core of açaí berry, plum and with ample sunshine from June through the end of the season.
blackberry compote notes. It offers a great interplay between power Temperatures stayed moderate and consistent too, without any
and purity, with tarry violet and loamy incense accents as well as major heat spikes that can lead to inconsistent ripening. The key
a ripple of acidity and a hint of iron. to the success of 2019 is its freshness and purity. The wines come
The CCS is followed by a superb lineup of bottlings at 97 points, off as polished and seductive in feel—a function of the spring rains
including the To Kalon Vineyard Company Cabernet Sauvignon and even-keeled temperatures.
Oakville Highest Beauty 2019 (97, $200), made by winemaker “There were not a lot of heat spikes in 2019 compared to other
Andy Erickson with fruit from the Robert Mondavi Winery–owned vintages, which can cause delays in phenological ripening and
portion of To Kalon. The MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville harsher tannin,” says Graeme MacDonald. “And because there was
2019 (97, $195) also draws its fruit from a small parcel of old vines a good amount of rain in 2019, that lines up with the wines being
in To Kalon owned by the MacDonald family, though the trade- less tannic, because there’s better tannin maturity due to less water
mark nature of the To Kalon name (Constellation Brands owns stress on the vines.”
Mondavi) prevents MacDonald from using it on its label. Two bot- Harvest stretched into October and producers took advantage,
tlings from Colgin—the Cariad Napa Valley 2019 (97, $NA) and letting their fruit hang without being forced into picking by any
IX Estate Napa Valley (97, $NA)—along with the VHR Cabernet breakdowns in the weather. The 2019 season wound up with a
Sauvignon Oakville 2019 (97, $250) and four additional Schrader lengthier ripening period and more sunlight than the benchmark
offerings round out the group. 2018 vintage, but with less degree days. Some Napa producers even
Among the year’s other elite Cabernets are top-scorers from describe 2019 as a cool year.
Carte Blanche (made by Helen Keplinger), Dalla Valle, Favia, “2019 is my kind of vintage,” says winemaker Cathy Corison,
Keplinger, Lokoya, Paul Hobbs, Philip Togni and Scarecrow. whose eponymous winery is located up valley in St. Helena. “It was
really cool to cold. We had one two-day heat spike over 100 degrees,
C
hallenges came early in the 2019 growing season, with but other than that we had about a week in August that was in the
copious spring rains that included several inches in May. 70s and another nearly two weeks in September in the 70s, with
ROBERT McCLENAHAN
Though the rain was needed, it set the timing back a some overnight lows in the 40s. ‘Hangtime’ is thrown around a lot
couple of weeks and meant that producers had to contend with as a term. The key is hangtime with ripening rather than hangtime
exuberant vine canopies. that just results in shriveling. We got that hangtime with ripening

“LOOKING BACK ON ALL MY

NOTES FROM THAT VINTAGE, I
SEE ALL I WAS TALKING ABOUT
WAS HOW GOOD THE FRUIT
TASTED.” { JENNIFER WILLIAMS }
in ’19, while keeping fresh acids.”

Corison’s Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Sunbasket Vineyard
2019 (95, $225) and Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2019 (94,
$110) are sleek, fresh and floral-laced wines that proudly display
their cores of fruit while maintaining balance, all backed by subtle
minerality through their finishes.
The 2019 vintage is also extremely consistent throughout Napa
Valley, with excellent results from both the valley floor and moun-
tain vineyards.
“We’re very pleased,” says Lisa Togni, who works alongside her
parents Philip and Birgitta at their family property on Spring Moun-
tain. “We picked in the third week of September and the crop was
a bit smaller, about 75% normal for us. But there was no pressure on
the pick date. There weren’t a lot of superhot days, and so we were
able to keep good acids that give the wine energy. So for a normal-
to-late harvest window, the wines taste fresh.” The 2019 vintage was mostly smooth sailing for Zeitgeist’s Jennifer Williams, who
The Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 (96, made a range of highly rated Cabernets from vineyards on the valley floor.
$150) is a beautiful version of the throwback style, sporting a wide
array of sweet bay leaf, savory and menthol notes along with zesty bottlings should cruise in the cellar for two decades.
raspberry, red currant and blackberry fruit flavors. The wine is built “In general, it’s a year like ’18 in some ways, with a good size crop
on acidity as much as grippy, tar-laced tannins, leaving a mouth- and there’s freshness and vibrancy,” says winemaker Tom Garrett
watering feel at the end of the long finish. of Detert Family Vineyards and Dakota Shy. “But the wines are a
Togni’s bottling displays its typically tannic spine, though in bit riper as well, with higher pHs giving them a little more fruit-
general the 2019s tend to be accessible now. In fact, that might be forward persona. Tannins were lower than ’18, so we left them on
the one slight knock on the 2019 vintage—its forward nature. Yet the skins a bit longer.”
the 2019s are well-built and show inner purity, even if they don’t The Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 (93, $95)
have the strident tannic spine of their predecessors, and the top is a rock-solid offering, while the Detert Cabernet Franc Oakville
2019 (93, $100) is a leading example of this
variety that’s typically used as a blending
component, but is being taken more and
more seriously by top producers.
“Cab Franc is seeing a huge amount of
interest,” says Garrett. “The number of
wineries calling looking for fruit is off the
charts. I think that’s because it’s finally be-
ing planted in the right places and there’s
a corresponding quality surge. It gives you
Cabernet Sauvignon–like structure and
intensity, but with floral aromatics and a
different fruit and textural profile.”
TOP: DAVIDSAWYERSOMM; BOTTOM: EUAN RANNACHAN
T
here were many other notable
efforts in 2019, including by
winemaker Jennifer Williams,
who works exclusively with valley floor
fruit for her own Zeitgeist label while also
making the wines for Arrow & Branch. The
Winemaker Tom Garrett of Dakota Shy and Detert Family Vineyards is at the forefront of a movement to emphasize Zeitgeist Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Cabernet Franc in their lineup, turning out some of the year’s top examples. 2019 (92, $85) is a textbook example of

winemaker Laura Diaz has been tweaking things since she arrived
in 2018. The winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 (92,
$77) has a core of gently steeped plum and warm cassis, with a
subtle tug of loam underscoring the finish.
Meanwhile at the venerable Robert Mondavi Winery, the lineup
of 2019s is very solid. All four of the winery’s 2019 Cabernets submit-
ted for review earned outstanding ratings. Of note is the Cabernet
Sauvignon Oakville The Estates 2019 (94, $85), which throws off
some pretty gorgeous aromas of violet, anise and sweet bay leaf, with
a core of ripe, streamlined boysenberry and blackberry pâte de fruit.
This bottling was created by then-winemaker Nova Cadamatre.
During her tenure, she dealt with the effects of widespread replant-
ing at To Kalon. She made a stricter selection for the higher-end
Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville The Reserve To Kalon Vineyard
2019 (95, $225), resulting in just 1,638 cases. But this created a
waterfall effect, steering more To Kalon fruit to the winery’s lower-
tier wines. The Estates bottling totals 13,500 cases, while the Cab-
ernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 (91, $50) totals more than
90,000 cases. Cadamatre left after the 2021 vintage to pursue her
own project in New York’s Finger Lakes, so it remains to be seen
if the winery can build on her progress.
Among bottlings sourced from mountain vineyards, look for the
Frias Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District Reserva 2019
Winemaker Laura Diaz has brought changes to Ehlers Estate since her arrival at the (94, $150), Peter Franus Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Brand-
historic winery in 2018, including the start of a significant replanting program. lin Vineyard 2019 (94, $85) and Brandlin Cabernet Sauvignon
Mount Veeder 2019 (94, $90). These wines teem with vivacious
the vintage, while the Arrow & Branch Right Bank Blend Napa fruit flavors and alluring sweet bay leaf and sassafras notes—a
Valley 2019 (94, $150) is a suave and alluring blend of Cabernet marked contrast to the generally plusher, broader valley floor Cab-
Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that offers a ripe and rich ernets. (For more on Napa Valley’s mountain AVAs, see “Napa’s
yet restrained profile, with creamed plum and gently mulled cherry Mountain Cabernets” on page 54.)
fruit laced with subtle sweet tobacco, warm humus and alder smoke. A wide-angle view of Napa’s Cabernet scene makes it seem that
“Looking back on all my notes from that vintage, I see all I was the entry point these days is about $100, but there are still values
talking about was how good the fruit tasted,” says Williams. “In to be had, such as the vibrant Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
the end, I think if you managed your canopy well, those quick heat Valley 2019 (93, $50). The value play can net more results if you
spikes didn’t affect you. And the wines were easy to extract, thanks step outside Napa as well. Consumers who like a more rugged, old-
to the small berries. The wines are fruit-driven but fresh.” school style should try the Domaine Eden Cabernet Sauvignon
Another producer to keep your eye on is Ehlers Estate, where Santa Cruz Mountains 2018 (91, $45); fruit-bomb fans can seek out
RATING NAPA CABERNET VINTAGES

2019 97 A wet spring resulted in less overt tannic structure, with small, concentrated berries delivering dense yet pure fruit Hold
flavors. Harvest stretched into October thanks to very moderate temperatures in August and September. Wines
are ripe and lush yet well-defined; a worthy follow-up to the benchmark 2018 vintage
2018 99 A wet winter provided sufficient water through the dry, warm, even-keeled season. Ripening was slow under Hold
full canopies, and the drawn-out harvest allowed producers to pick when they wanted. A spectacular year, with
wines that are rich and dark, but detailed, restrained in style and very terroir-driven
2017 92 Drought broke over the winter, with lots of vegetation and healthy vines to start the season. Good growing season Drink or hold
turned wickedly hot in early September, with no cooling-off period, then wildfires raged in early October, raising
the specter of smoke taint. Napa’s most difficult season in recent memory
2016 98 The final drought-influenced vintage of the run since 2012, this time without serious heat spikes. Rockier soils and Hold
drier spots ripened first, while heavier soils allowed for longer hang time. Wines show intense fruit against the
backdrop of their varying terroirs; crop still down from normal
2015 94 The fourth drought-influenced year in a row, plus a cold spell during flowering led to significantly lower yields. Drink or hold
The smaller crop ripened quickly, though, with picking beginning in August. Quality is high but more variable
than 2016 or 2013, as sugars sometimes raced ahead of phenolics
2014 95 Heavy rains in late winter gave the vines an early boost—though not enough to break the drought—and from there Drink or hold
warm, dry conditions led to an early harvest. Quality is very consistent, with the wines showing power, depth and
extra aromatic range. A beautiful vintage with a distinct signature
Notable older vintages: 2013, 2012, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006, 2004, 1999, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1994, 1987, 1986, 1985, 1984, 1978, 1974, 1970, 1968, 1958, 1951, 1941, 1936
ALEXANDER RUBIN
Note that most California Cabernets are drinkable within a few years of release.
Vintage ratings: 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 85-89, very good; 80-84, good; 75-79, mediocre; 50-74, not recommended Drinkability: “NYR” means most wines of the vintage are yet to be
released; “drink” means most of the wines of the vintage are ready to drink; “hold” means most of the ageworthy wines have yet to fully mature.

Harvest arrives at Frias Family Vineyard in the Spring Mountain District AVA, one of a number of Napa wineries to excel in 2019 with mountain-grown fruit.
the Goldschmidt Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Katherine tobacco, loam and licorice root. The Harlan offers a similar fruit
Goldschmidt Stonemason Hill 2019 (88, $25); and those simply profile laced liberally with smoldering tobacco, warm earth and tar
looking for a nice everyday bottle will be pleased with the Grounded notes, which compete for attention on the muscular yet driven fin-
Wine Co. Cabernet Sauvignon California 2020 (88, $15). (For a ish. Watching these two develop over the next three decades will
list of nearly 50 Cabernets rated 88 points or higher while costing be a treat for those lucky enough to secure the wines.
$50 or less, see the chart on page 51.) Therein lies both the excitement and frustration with Napa’s
top bottlings. Prices are astronomical and quantities are limited
W
hile 2019 dominates retail shelves at the moment, (with just 218 cases of the Capella and around 2,000 for the Har-
there are numerous late-release 2018s worth paying lan), resulting in the wines disappearing into the cellars of private
attention to. The 2018 growing seasons was warmer collectors via direct-to-consumer purchases. But that’s the way the
but had less sunlight (due to high-elevation smoke from distant market works for wines that have developed a track record for ex-
wildfires), along with cooler nights. This delivered a set of wines cellence. Among the other top 2018 late releases are classic-rated
vividly marked by their terroir, showing more pronounced savory, bottlings from Bond, Dunn, Mayacamas and Promontory.
mineral and warm earth tones along with serious cores of fruit. Looking ahead, the quality run comes to a crashing halt with
Both the Abreu Cappella St. Helena 2018 (99, $650) and Har- the 2020 vintage. The wildfires that tore through Northern Cali-
lan Estate Napa Valley 2018 (99, $1,650) are monumental wines fornia in early September essentially ended the harvest before it
that cap the list of top-scorers. With the Cappella bottling, David got rolling. Many vineyards were left unharvested, while the spec-
Abreu, one of Napa’s most respected vineyard specialists, and wine- ter of smoke taint on grapes that were picked forced many produc-
maker Brad Grimes deliver a wine to wow you—a blend of Caber- ers not to bottle their wines. There will be some Cabernets worth
net Sauvignon with Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc that’s packed tracking down, primarily from warmer sites that ripened by late
with fruit and ripples with tension and energy, as plum, black cur- August and were picked before the smoke from the Glass Fire en-
rant, fig and blackberry flavors collide with sweet bay leaf, savory, gulfed the valley, but these are the exception rather than the rule.
In the meantime, there’s a flood of great Cabernet on the market
FREE ALPHABETICAL LIST: right now. With wines that are fruit-driven yet also fresh, pure and
MORE THAN 800 WINES REVIEWED! defined, 2019 is an excellent follow-up to the superb 2018 vintage,
Get scores and prices for every wine reviewed in this year’s
California Cabernet report, highlighting dozens of offering consistency from valley floor to mountain sites, from high-
outstanding 2019s and late releases from the stellar 2018 vintage. end collectibles to fan-friendly values. Let this report be your guide.
JASON TINACCI
Get your favorites in the cellar before the scarce 2020 vintage.
WineSpectator.com/CabernetAlpha111522 Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator’s lead taster on
California Cabernet Sauvignon.

JAMES MOLESWORTH’S RECOMMENDED CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNONS

More than 800 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/CabernetAlpha111522.
TOP-SCORING 2019s
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 98 $475 BAKER & HAMILTON Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 95 $125
CCS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019
CARDINALE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 95 $350
COLGIN Cariad Napa Valley 2019 97 $NA
CARTE BLANCHE The Mark Napa Valley 2019 95 $175
COLGIN IX Estate Napa Valley 2019 97 $NA
CONTINUUM Sage Mountain Vineyard Napa Valley 2019 95 $300
MACDONALD Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 97 $195
CORISON Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 95 $225
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 97 $475 Sunbasket Vineyard 2019
Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019
DIAMOND CREEK Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 $300
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 97 $1,140 Volcanic Hill 2019
Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard MMXIX 2019 1.5L
DVO Napa Valley 2019 95 $300
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 97 $475
ETUDE Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 95 $155
T6 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019
FAVIA Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville 2019 95 $250
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 97 $475
Heritage Clone To Kalon Vineyard 2019 FAVIA Cerro Sur Napa Valley 2019 95 $250
TO KALON VINEYARD COMPANY Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 97 $200 PAUL HOBBS Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville 95 $350
Highest Beauty 2019 Nathan Coombs Estate 2019
VHR Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 97 $250 PAUL HOBBS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 $300
Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard 2019
CARTE BLANCHE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 96 $175
Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard 2019 PAUL HOBBS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 $295
Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard 2019
COLGIN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Tychson Hill 2019 96 $NA
KAMEN Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain District 95 $175
DALLA VALLE Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 96 $250
Lava Block 2019
DALLA VALLE Maya Napa Valley 2019 96 $475
LOKOYA Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District 2019 95 $500
DOMINUS ESTATE Napa Valley 2019 96 $329
MEMENTO MORI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 $225
FAVIA Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 96 $250 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard 2019
FAVIA La Magdalena Napa Valley 2019 96 $250 ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville The Reserve 95 $225
To Kalon Vineyard 2019
GRACE FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2019 96 $350
OPUS ONE Napa Valley 2019 95 $390
PAUL HOBBS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 96 $500
Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019 OVID Napa Valley 2019 95 $425
KEPLINGER Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 96 $185 JOSEPH PHELPS Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Backus 2019 95 $395
Oakville Ranch Vineyard 2019
RIDGE Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 2019 95 $245
KEPLINGER Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville RBK 96 $200
RIVERS-MARIE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 $150
Oakville Ranch Vineyard 2019
Herb Lamb Vineyard 2019
KEPLINGER Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 96 $225
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 95 $1,140
Vine Hill Ranch Vineyard 2019
Colesworthy Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard 2019 1.5L
LOKOYA Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2019 96 $500
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District 95 $475
LOKOYA Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District 2019 96 $500 WH Wappo Hill Vineyard 2019
SCARECROW Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2019 96 $500 SPOTTSWOODE Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2019 95 $245
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 96 $475 STEWART Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Nomad 95 $215
LPV Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard 2019 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard 2019
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 96 $475 STEWART Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Nomad 95 $240
RBS Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019 Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019
SCHRADER CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 96 $280 TO KALON VINEYARD COMPANY Elizas’s Oakville 2019 95 $200
Monastery Block To Kalon Vineyard 2019
TURNBULL Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Black Label 2019 95 $160
TO KALON VINEYARD COMPANY Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 96 $250
TURNBULL Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Reserve 2019 95 $95
H.W.C 2019
PHILIP TOGNI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 96 $150
DAVID ARTHUR Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Old Vine 2019 95 $250

JAMES MOLESWORTH’S RECOMMENDED CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNONS

More than 800 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/CabernetAlpha111522.
TOP-SCORING LATE RELEASES

ABREU Cappella St. Helena 2018 99 $650 PROMONTORY Napa Valley 2017 96 $950

HARLAN ESTATE Napa Valley 2018 99 $1,650 TO KALON VINEYARD COMPANY Cabernet Sauvignon 96 $250
ABREU Madrona Ranch St. Helena 2018 98 $650 Oakville H.W.C 2018
TO KALON VINEYARD COMPANY Cabernet Sauvignon 98 $200 VHR Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2016 96 $250
Oakville Highest Beauty 2018 BOND Melbury Napa Valley 2018 95 $825
ABREU Las Posadas Howell Mountain 2017 97 $650 ETUDE Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018 95 $155
DUNN Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain El Camino 2018 97 $300 HEROLD Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018 95 $195
MAYACAMAS Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2018 97 $150 THE MAIDEN Napa Valley 2018 95 $550
TO KALON VINEYARD COMPANY Elizas’s Oakville 2018 97 $200 MERRYVALE Profile Napa Valley 2018 95 $210
VHR Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018 97 $250 PROMONTORY Napa Valley 2016 95 $900
ABREU Thorevilos Napa Valley 2017 96 $650 RUDD Estate Oakville 2016 95 $250
BOND Pluribus Napa Valley 2018 96 $825 SALVESTRIN Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Dr. Crane Vineyard 95 $175
BOND Quella Napa Valley 2018 96 $825 Three D 2018
BOND St. Eden Napa Valley 2018 96 $825 STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon 95 $295
Stags Leap District Cask 23 2018
BOND Vecina Napa Valley 2018 96 $825
ULYSSES Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018 95 $199
CORISON Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Kronos Vineyard 2018 96 $195
VINEYARD 7 & 8 Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District 95 $185
DUNN Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 2018 96 $140
Estate 2018
KAMEN Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain District Kashmir 2018 96 $225
SMART BUYS
SALVESTRIN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 93 $50 KENDALL-JACKSON Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 89 $28
BEAULIEU VINEYARD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 92 $33 Vintner’s Reserve 2019
KITH & KIN Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 92 $40 NAPA CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 89 $31
LAIRD FAMILY Jillian’s Blend Napa Valley 2017 92 $48 PICAYUNE Padlock Napa Valley 2019 89 $37
SANCTUARY Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2019 92 $40 ROOTS RUN DEEP Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 89 $50
Bound + Determined 2018
TERRA VALENTINE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 92 $40
SEQUOIA GROVE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 89 $50
TRINCHERO Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Mario’s 2018 92 $50
SILVER GHOST Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 89 $50
BUEHLER Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 91 $40
JOSEPH CARR Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 88 $32
DOMAINE EDEN Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains 2018 91 $45
GOLDSCHMIDT Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 88 $25
ROBERT MONDAVI Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 91 $50
Katherine Goldschmidt Stonemason Hill 2019
ROBERT MONDAVI Maestro Napa Valley 2018 91 $40
GONZAGUE & CLAIRE LURTON VINEYARDS 88 $39
ROOTS RUN DEEP Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 91 $50 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2017
Educated Guess Reserve 2019
GROUNDED WINE CO. Cabernet Sauvignon California 2020 88 $15
SILENUS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Tyros 2019 91 $38
KENWOOD Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Six Ridges 2018 88 $22
CARPE DIEM Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 90 $32
KUNDE FAMILY Meritage 202 Destination Series 88 $45
CROSSBARN Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2019 90 $45 Sonoma Valley 2018
DRY CREEK The Mariner Meritage Sonoma County 2019 90 $50 LEVIATHAN California 2019 88 $45
KUNDE FAMILY Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Valley 2018 90 $35 MARKHAM Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 88 $48
KUNDE FAMILY Dunfillan Cuvee Destination Series 90 $35 MURRIETA’S WELL The Spur Livermore Valley 2019 88 $35
Sonoma Valley 2019
PEDRONCELLI Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley 88 $22
SAN SIMEON Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles Estate 90 $30 Three Vineyards 2019
Reserve 2019
POST & BEAM Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 88 $50
STEWART Tartan Napa Valley 2018 90 $45
PRECISION Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2020 88 $40
TRUCHARD Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Carneros 2019 90 $40
PRECISION Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Member’s Mark 2020 88 $18
BUEHLER Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate 2019 89 $50
ROTH Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2019 88 $30
JOSH CELLARS Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 89 $30
SEBASTIANI Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2019 88 $40
Heritage Collection 2019
ST. FRANCIS Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Reserve 2019 88 $50
KENDALL-JACKSON Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 89 $32
Grand Reserve 2019 WHITEHALL LANE Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 88 $50

NAPA’S MOUNTAIN
apa Valley is defined by its two mountain Vineyards within the western appellations of Spring Mountain
N ranges, the Vaca and Mayacamas. Created dur-

ing the formation of the San Andreas Fault 30
million years ago, the region’s terroir is chiefly
attributed to volcanic upsurges and massive
landslides—particularly on the Vaca range, which runs along the
valley’s eastern edge. Along the western edge runs the Mayacamas
range, formed primarily by marine sedimentary soils left by chang-
District, Diamond Mountain District and Mount Veeder, for ex-
ample, are often above the fog line as well as shrouded by conifer
and oak woodland, with tree lines and ridge lines shaping the vine-
yards, creating Cabernets with minerally tension and racy natural
acidity. In the east, the vineyards of Howell Mountain, Atlas Peak
and Pritchard Hill bathe in the sun, with rocky, volcanic soils that
deliver dark, winey fruit and robust tannins.
ing sea levels, which caused the nearby San Pablo Bay to ebb and As different as they are, these mountain regions do have a com-
flow along the southern part of the valley. mon thread—they are all difficult areas for grapegrowing due to rug-
While many of Napa’s most visible wineries and vineyards are ged terrains and varying elevations and exposures. These conditions
situated on the valley floor, along the two main arteries of High- result in notably lower yields than sites on the valley floor, as well
way 29 and the Silverado Trail, there are hidden treasures amid as typically later harvest windows that bring the threat of deteriorat-
the hills above, including an increasingly significant slice of Napa ing weather into play. But the growing number of wines from these
COURTESY OF GALLO
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Each of Napa’s mountain winegrow- areas indicates that efforts to grow here are worthwhile.
ing areas has a unique thumbprint of soil and climate that trans- Mountain fruit contributes to Cabernets with tremendous con-
lates into very distinctive wines. centration of color and flavor; with the addition of vivid acidity,

CABERNETSAN EXPLORATION OF THE REGION’S BY AARON
HIGH-ELEVATION TERROIRS ROMANO
At 600 acres, Stagecoach Vineyard dominates the landscape of Atlas Peak
they offer a stark counterpoint when compared with the plush, of Togni, would embrace the vagaries of mountain vineyards and
broad versions from the valley floor. Nearly all of the 100 moun- succeed in making impressive and long-lived Cabernets from them.
tain Cabernets reviewed by Wine Spectator in the past year rated Thanks in part to their efforts, mountain terroir steadily became
90 points or higher on our 100-point scale. as sought-after in Napa as quality sites on the valley floor. Fueling
Developing mountain sites is more arduous and costly than work- a more recent wave of investment in these areas is Jackson Family
ing those on the valley floor, and these areas remained largely un- Wines, which went all in when it established Lokoya in 1995.
cultivated while the rest of the valley was being developed in the Along with Mt. Brave, founded in 2007, and its purchase of La Jota
19th century. Between 1860 and 1880, Jacob Schram of Schrams- in 2005, Jackson Family now has vineyards in five mountain AVAs.
berg, Charles Lemme of Spring Mountain, the Beringer brothers Other important mountain-based producers include Colgin, Piero
of Beringer and other pioneers began harvesting the hills above Antinori’s Antica, Ovid and Cade.
the valley, acting on instinct that wine grapes would thrive in this Today, the mountain AVAs still account for only about 13% of
environment. But it wasn’t until the middle of the 20th century Napa’s total vineyard acreage—approximately 6,000 acres of vines
when a later wave of pioneering vintners, including Fred and out of some 45,000 acres overall—but they are widely considered
Eleanor McCrea of Stony Hill in 1943, and in the next decades Al to be some of the highest quality Cabernet sites. The five formal
and Boots Brounstein of Diamond Creek, Donn and Molly Chap- AVAs profiled below are perched within the Mayacamas and Vaca
pellet of Chappellet, Michael and Arlene Bernstein of Mount ranges. Also included is Pritchard Hill, which is a well-regarded
Veeder Winery, Tom Burgess of Burgess Cellars and Philip Togni mountain terroir in eastern Napa, though not an official AVA.

SONOMA
Mt. Veeder
121 MT. VEEDER

SPRING MOUNTAIN
NAPA 29
YOUNTVILLE OAKVILLE RUTHERFORD ST. HELENA
PRITCHARD HILL
Lake Hennessey
Atlas
Peak
ATLAS PEAK
Vaca Mountains
Krupp hired a “water witch” to help identify the best locations for vine-
Atlas Peak yards, drilling some 400 feet to find underground streams. Today, most
ESTABLISHED: 1992 | TOTAL ACREAGE: 11,000 | ACRES PLANTED: 1,500
ELEVATION RANGE: 760 to 2,600 feet Atlas Peak vineyards are dry-farmed.
STANDOUT PRODUCERS: Antica, Kongsgaard, Lobo, Pahlmeyer

“Atlas Peak is a super interesting and unique AVA,” says Michael Eddy,
director of winemaking at Louis M. Martini.
Atlas Peak is located within the Soda Canyon and Foss Valley areas, east Diamond Mountain District
of Yountville and the Stags Leap District, and most of its vineyards sit above ESTABLISHED: 2001 | TOTAL ACREAGE: 5,000 | ACRES PLANTED: 500
the fog line, where they receive an immense amount of sunshine. Eddy ELEVATION RANGE: 400 to 2,200 feet
notes that the region is also not as heavily forested with the big, mature
Named for the sparkling volcanic glass and obsidian rock sprinkled through-
trees you find in some of Napa’s other mountain AVAs. The lack of tall trees
out its soils, Diamond Mountain traces its origins to one of Napa’s earliest
to block sunlight at lower angles contributes to extended sun exposure. Yet
pioneers, Jacob Schram, who purchased 200-plus acres in 1862 and started
the area is, on average, 10 degrees cooler than the valley floor, and once the
developing vineyards for what would become Schramsberg Vineyards.
sun sets, temperatures dip further.
Today, much of Diamond Mountain remains undeveloped, with just 500
“Temperatures rise and fall quickly. This diurnal shift preserves a sense of
acres under vine, making it the smallest AVA in all of Napa Valley in terms
freshness in the wine in an otherwise ripe and structured profile,” says Eddy.
of vine acreage. The region, which rises above the city of Calistoga, includes
“From my perspective, Cabernet Sauvignon from Atlas Peak has a very gen-
numerous steep, unplantable hills surrounded by dense forest.
erous fruit profile, with a rich mouthfeel without punishing tannins.”
“As with any of the mountains, you can find plenty of vineyards here with
Soil also plays a significant role. Volcanic in origin and red in color, Atlas
diverse exposures,” says Graham Wehmeier, winemaker and vineyard man-
Peak soils tend to be shallow and well-drained. They are also ecologically
ager for Diamond Creek. “But the prevailing exposure of the appellation is
younger, thin and not especially fertile. “This results in vines with less vigor,
more or less north-northeast, which means less intense sun and slightly
smaller canopies and smaller berries delivering more concentration and in-
more morning sun versus afternoon.”
tensity,” notes Eddy.
For some mountain areas, that exposure could be a disadvantage in
Much of the appellation is devoted to one massive vineyard, Stagecoach,
terms of ripening fully. But because of Diamond Mountain’s northern locale,
which encompasses 600 acres and supplies dozens of wineries with grapes.
temperatures are warmer, allowing for ripening as well as a distinct terroir
In the 1990s, Jan Krupp began developing vines within the vineyard’s rocky,
MAP: DAVE STEVENSON
imprint on Cabernet. “Protection from the afternoon sun is key to letting

volcanic terroir. Now owned by E. & J. Gallo, the property has boundaries
flavors and tannins fully ripen without worrying so much about cooked
extending from the southeastern portion of Pritchard Hill to the western-
flavors,” explains Wehmeier.
most edge of Atlas Peak.
Vineyards above the fog line benefit from cool days and warm nights,
One reason few wineries have developed Atlas Peak is its lack of water.

Diamond
Mountain
Mayacamas Mountains
128
DIAMOND
MOUNTAIN Mt. St.
Helena
CALISTOGA
29
HOWELL MOUNTAIN
with less temperature fluctuation. Fine-grained, gritty volcanic soils are
NAPA
prominent, and Diamond Creek—perhaps the AVA’s most famous estate—
has three unique vineyards that aptly demonstrate the region’s diversity.
Wehmeier notes that Diamond Creek’s loamy, red rock volcanic soil is
slightly more typical for the area and tends to impart a certain energy and VALLEY
AVAs
Napa
elegance in line with other Diamond Mountain wines. “Whereas Volcanic Hill Valley
always seems inclined to produce bigger, more powerful wines.” he says.
Howell
Be
“And Gravelly Meadow is similar, but in a cooler spot and with coarse, pebbly Laryes
Calistoga
r
Mountain
ke sa
soils, producing wine with a mineral element and a trace of the Old World.”
In general, Diamond Mountain Cabernets show typical mountain fruit Chiles Valley
Diamond
structure and intensity of tannins, along with lively acidity, all of which can Mountain
lend an austere quality to the wines in their youth. Patience is often needed.
Spring St. Helena Lake
Hennessey
STANDOUT PRODUCERS: J. Davies, Diamond Creek, Kinsman Eades, Von Strasser
Mountain
Pritchard Hill*
Rutherford
Oakville Atlas
Howell Mountain Stags Peak
ESTABLISHED: 1983 | TOTAL ACREAGE: 14,000 | ACRES PLANTED: 1,500 Leap
ELEVATION RANGE: 1,400 to 2,600 feet
Yountville
Mount Oak
Most AVA borders are defined by creeks, tributaries or perimeters such as Veeder Knoll
city limits. Howell Mountain’s unique topography, however, starts at the µN Wild
1,400-foot elevation contour line and soars another 1,000-plus feet. Coombsville Horse
The St. Helena Star reported in the 1880s that, “If any grapegrowing re-
CALIFORNIA Valley
AREA
gion in California deserves to be called a well-defined district, it is Howell •
OF
DETAIL Los
Mountain.” Around that time, Jean Brun and Jean Chaix were planting vines
San
Francisco
Carneros
Pacif
on Howell Mountain and expanding their winemaking empire. The duo built AvLos
ic Oc
Angeles
•
a stone winery, which still stands, on what is now the property of Ladera
ean
Vineyards. Today, the region is home to 47 wineries.

*Not an
In addition to Howell Mountain’s elevation, its soil and climate also differ- official AVA
San Pablo Bay
entiate it from other mountainous regions. The eastern mountains receive

considerably more sun and warmth than the western appellations. And
Howell Mountain’s elevation range helps minimize heat spikes, with evening
temperatures that are generally warmer and daytime temperatures that are
much cooler than the valley floor.
“The greatest thing we have here is consistency, no bad vintages,” says
Randy Dunn of Dunn Vineyards, who helped lay the groundwork for Howell
Mountain to become an AVA. “Howell Mountain is quite extensive in acre-
age, with a larger variation in ripening due to the topography.”
Howell Mountain’s soil is predominantly volcanic, rocky and shallow, con-
sisting of either decomposed volcanic ash (tufa) or red Aiken clay, both of
which are high in iron. Because both soil types are nutrient-poor, they stress
the vines, resulting in small clusters and smaller, concentrated grapes. As
a result, Howell Mountain Cabernets wield robust, grippy tannins and are
some of the valley’s longest-lived wines.
STANDOUT PRODUCERS: Abreu, Beringer, Cade, Clif Family, Dunn, Howell Mountain
Vineyards, Ink Grade, La Jota, Outpost
Spring Mountain District

ELEVATION RANGE: 600 to 2,600 feet
Part of what makes Spring Mountain unique for grapegrowing is its nearly
equal mix of sedimentary and volcanic soils. Reflecting the location of vine-
yards, the wines can show very differently depending on elevation, expo-
sure and soil.
In 1873 at his La Perla vineyard, Charles Lemme was the first to plant Cab-
ernet Sauvignon on Spring Mountain. Growth on the mountain continued
through the 19th century, with Jacob and Frederick Beringer planting vines
in the 1880s. Fortune Chevalier and Tiburcio Parrott established Chevalier Lokoya winemaker Chris Carpenter
and Miravalle vineyards, respectively, around the same time. Those two vine-
yards and La Perla are now part of the Spring Mountain Vineyard estate. of winemaking. Showcased at the 1864 Napa County Fair, Wing’s wine was
The region gets its name from the numerous natural springs that run made with grapes from Wing Canyon Vineyard, which sits near the Mayac-
through the appellation. Spring Mountain soil pH can tilt toward the acidic amas Vineyards.
side, and soil nutrients and water must be carefully monitored because they In the 1880s, the properties that are now Yates Family Vineyard and May-
can affect vine canopies and fruit ripening. acamas Vineyards were established, with commercial production arriving
Deep, well-drained volcanic soils make up approximately two-thirds of around 1900. Mayacamas was the first to restart post-Prohibition here, in
the appellation and are found primarily in its northern sections, while the 1951. The Bernstein family followed close behind, establishing what is now
southern half of the mountain contains large swaths of sandstone and Mount Veeder Winery in 1970 and producing the first wine with a Mount
shale-based soils. Veeder designation on its label in 1973. AVA status would wait until 1990.
For Chris Carpenter, winemaker at Lokoya, Spring Mountain is about Mount Veeder’s soils are composed primarily of marine layers due to an
more than just myriad soils. “From a terroir perspective, I think the prepon- ancient seabed that was pushed up during the mountain’s formation millions
derance of sedimentary soil types and positioning on the west side of the of years ago. These shallow and well-drained sandy or sandy-loam soils are
valley—and how that affects the diurnal shift—gives that AVA its unique more commonly found in nearby Carneros, yet there is also some volcanic
character,” he explains. soil at Veeder’s highest elevations—a distinctive quirk of the AVA.
Temperatures during veraison, ripening and harvest are affected by the The second-coolest AVA (behind nearby Carneros) in terms of daytime
San Pablo Bay’s marine influence, with relatively cooler days and warmer temperatures, Mount Veeder’s growing seasons are longer than any other
nights in contrast with the valley below. Napa appellation, occasionally extending into November. With abundant
“The balance of dark and red fruit, floral nature and the elegant tannic forested and steep, rugged terrain, the plantable area is quite limited, and
structure defines the AVA relative to the other mountain AVAs, which are nearly all vineyard work is done by hand. Vineyards are often planted in
much less likely to exhibit the red fruit and floral notes to the level that small parcels and at myriad exposures and elevations.
Spring [Mountain] typically does,” says Carpenter. “It might have more in common with Barolo than with Oakville, consider-
ing the elevation and the diversity of soils and aspects,” suggests Andy
STANDOUT PRODUCERS: Barnett, Behrens, Fe, Frias, Lokoya, Paloma, Spring
Erickson, half of the winemaking team at Mayacamas Vineyards alongside
Mountain Vineyard, Stony Hill, Philip Togni, Vineyard 7 & 8
Braiden Albrecht. Like Barolo, Mount Veeder’s tannins can be quite power-
ful. “The combination of acid and tannin is something that—in our mind—
Mount Veeder needs to be respected and reflected in the wines,” he adds.
ELEVATION RANGE: 500 to 2,600 feet Cabernets from Mount Veeder are intensely concentrated and liberally
COURTESY OF LOKOYA WINERY
fruity, showing notable savory and sweet bay leaf elements, with abundant
With its long grapegrowing history, Mount Veeder is perhaps Napa’s most fresh acidity and big tannins. Generally, the wines shine brightest after a
unique and distinctive appellation. Named for Dutch Presbyterian pastor couple of decades in the bottle.
Peter Veeder, who lived in Napa and hiked the mountain during the 1860s,
STANDOUT PRODUCERS: Brandlin, Peter Franus, The Hess Collection, Mayacamas
Mount Veeder credits Captain Stelham Wing with its first recorded example Vineyards, Mount Veeder Winery, Mt. Brave

The vineyards of Chappellet on Pritchard Hill
Colgin and her future husband Joe Wender in 1998. They named their prop-
Pritchard Hill erty the IX Estate after its original parcel number: 9. Don Bryant bought
ESTABLISHED: No official AVA status | TOTAL ACREAGE: NA | ACRES PLANTED: his vineyard in the area in 1985, with Helen Turley making the wines in the
Approx. 500 | ELEVATION RANGE: 800 to 2,000 feet
1990s that would put Bryant’s winery on the map. The most recent wave of
Though not an official AVA, Pritchard Hill has established itself as one of wineries came just after that, in the 2000s, including Continuum, Gandona,
Napa’s most desirable mountainous vineyard locations. Butting up against Ovid and Brand.
Atlas Peak in the eastern hills above Rutherford and Oakville, near Lake “The vineyards have a diversity of volcanic soils, depths and types,” says
Hennessey, Pritchard Hill is home to some of Napa’s Cabernet titans. Chappellet winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus. “These shallow, rocky, volcanic
Arriving in 1967, Molly and Donn Chappellet found barren land and a soils limit cluster and berry size, creating wines with a greater concentration
harsh climate that hardly seemed conducive to planting. The isolated area of color, flavor and structure.”
offers well-drained volcanic soils packed with minerals, but the dirt is also Pritchard Hill isn’t a well-defined summit like other mountain regions.
extremely compact, and water is scarce. Additionally, massive boulders and Instead, the terrain offers more of a sloping upland. “There’s also diversity
rocks dot the landscape. This rugged topography makes Pritchard Hill one of slopes and aspects to the sun, which brings an abundance of morning
of Napa Valley’s most difficult areas to cultivate. To date, it’s estimated that and afternoon sun,” says Corallo-Titus, noting that elevations make temper-
fewer than 400 acres are under vine. atures consistently 3 to 5 degrees cooler than on the valley floor, providing
The Chappellets are generally credited with bringing Pritchard Hill to a longer growing day that helps achieve consistent ripening. “Even in cool,
prominence, but others played a role as well. In the 1950s, Don and Anne wet years, high quality is reproducible here year after year,” he adds.
Long paid $350,000 for 950 acres of ranching land near where the Chap- The Chappellet family trademarked the name Pritchard Hill and uses it
ROBERT McCLENAHAN
pellets would later settle. The property was mostly dormant until their son, exclusively on their labels. But the reputation of the area has grown so
David, began planting what he called David Arthur Vineyard in 1978, releas- much, Chappellet’s neighbors are often referred to as Pritchard Hill sites.
ing his first wine from the 1985 vintage. STANDOUT PRODUCERS: Bryant Family Vineyard, Chappellet, Colgin, Continuum,
Most of that land was subdivided and sold off. The first to buy was Ann David Arthur, Ovid

UP TO THE
Challge
Shannon Staglin
leads her
family’s Napa
estate into the
future
BY MARYANN
WOROBIEC
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
TAI POWER SEEFF
S
hannon Staglin is giving
a tour of the Staglin es-
tate vineyard in Ruther-
ford. She reaches down and
grabs a handful of brown soil, so
fine-grained and pulverized it
looks like Dutch cocoa powder.
Staglin brings up the term
“Rutherford dust,” coined by
famed vintner André Tchelist-
cheff, who planted vineyards on
the property at one time. “It is
less about a flavor [and] more
about the texture of the tan-
nins,” she says. “You can see how

powdery they get when they’re broken down. That’s what
I think mimics itself in the tannin structure of our Cab-
ernets. They have that lovely elegance and finesse.”
She stands her petite frame up and brushes her hands
on her jeans. “Let’s walk this way. There’s a cool little in-
tersection where you can see four different styles of vine
training from different eras.”
Staglin is clearly comfortable among the vines. She
hails the vineyard crew in Spanish. She is equally at home
in the underground winery—tasting with a cellar team
led by winemaker Fredrik Johansson, discussing Chardon-
nay components. That same day, she greets visitors walk-
ing by and works in the kitchen alongside winery chef
Sarah Heller to prepare lunch.
Focused and relaxed, the 43-year-old winery president
answers questions thoughtfully. Her role plays to her
strengths. “I like people,” Staglin explains. “The diversity
of everything I do keeps me engaged and interested in
learning.” Later, a winery visit by her children—Sicily, 6,
and Arthur, 5—requires her to dodge foam toy airplanes
and negotiate ice cream servings.
Staglin might have a knack for making it look easy, but
it is increasingly rare to run an estate-based, family busi-
ness on a historic site in Napa; many similar wineries have
been sold to investment firms and luxury conglomerate
companies. As a result, fewer torches are being passed on.
Harlan Estate founder Bill Harlan has been friends with
the Staglin family since before they all became vintners.
He says that Shannon is known for working hard, being
passionate about wine and being good with people. “She’s In addition to their commitments at Staglin Family, winemaker Fredrik Johansson, on board since 2007,
and Shannon Staglin have partnered on a second label called Resa, which specializes in lighter reds.
a good representative of Napa Valley,” Harlan says.
“It’s not as easy as it looks,” he adds, in regard to main- language that was easier to understand,” she says. But the market
taining success at multigenerational wineries. “I think that’s one plunge of 2008 was a difficult time to be in banking. “I learned a
of the reasons we don’t have more. I also think the business is lot in a short amount of time. Not just about the subject matter,
tougher today than it was when we started 36 years ago.” but about navigating complex situations,” Staglin adds.
Staglin agrees that things are difficult for vintners. “Relevancy There was the possibility of another position in banking, but she
is a challenge as the Napa wine industry has grown rather drasti- wanted to do something that made her feel more fulfilled. “I was
cally since we began in 1985,” she explains. “Now the client has good at it. I could have done it,” she says. Staglin feels her time in
many great choices—we just need to continue to be one of those banking helped her build character, something she believes comes
choices.” But Staglin is ready to take her family’s business into the with facing challenges.
future. “I think that like anything in life, we are always adapting, She also has a competitive streak, and team sports in high school
evolving and changing,” she says. set the foundation for her leadership skills. A basketball and vol-
leyball player, she held the season assist record for varsity basket-
S
hannon Staglin’s résumé goes well beyond her last name. ball until recently. “In high school, of course I didn’t want to have
She graduated from UCLA with a degree in cultural an- anything to do with the wine business, because what teenager wants
thropology. She was a harvest intern in 2001 under wine- to do what their parents do?
maker Andy Erickson, and the next year she started working in “I always enjoyed traveling and learning about different cultures
the winery office on the marketing, hospitality, consumer and trade and ways of life. This likely led to me choosing to major in cultural
sales sides. But in 2006, she realized she had reached a professional anthropology at UCLA,” Staglin continues. “I think this provided
plateau at the winery. me with a great foundation for marketing: observing, listening and
Staglin returned to school and earned an MBA from the gradu- from this, learning how best to communicate.”
ate school of management at the University of California, Davis. “A lot of being an effective leader is about emotional intelligence
From there, she looked for growth in the corporate world. In 2008, and empathy,” says Mari Baker, a board director at Blue Shield of
she was recruited to create the marketing program for Wells Fargo California, who knows Staglin as a leader beyond the wine indus-
Family Wealth, providing solutions to ultra-high net worth clients try. The two met in the Young Presidents Organization (YPO), a
on matters such as complex estate planning. “I understood the cli- worldwide CEO group. “[Staglin] has a lovely combination of ca-
ents, and was able to translate complicated financial solutions into pabilities, drive and generosity,” notes Baker.

Baker recounts how Staglin a senator on the Senate Armed
chaired the local chapter of Services Committee. The two
YPO, becoming a leader among shared similar levels of clearance
leaders. “She’s following in the for top-secret information.
footsteps of leaders of well- The next stop for the ambi-
known Silicon Valley tech com- tious couple was New York City.
panies and sports franchises. She Garen began a venture capital
was elevated by her peers to a and investments career, later be-
position of leadership.” coming involved in credit card
Her time away from Napa ac- processing services. Still a new
tually drew Staglin closer to it. In parent to her son Brandon, Shari
2011, she returned to Staglin returned to school, taking classes
Family Vineyard armed with at night to get a master’s degree
honed skills. In her first year as in public administration at New
general manager, she led the win- York University.
ery to record revenue perfor- The Staglins moved back to
mance. She was named president California’s Bay Area in the
in 2012. 1970s. There, Shari worked in
“I think our business is unique the public health care sector,
in the valley because when I came focusing on emergency medical
back to join the family business services systems and exams for
in a managerial role, I was given first responders. “I was hauling
the power to make decisions,” ex- around [training dolls] all over
plains Staglin. “And if my sugges- the place, teaching firemen how
tion was different than what [my] Staglin's winemaking takes place in 24,000-square-feet of underground caves that are to do CPR,” Shari recalls. Her
parents wanted to do, they’d hear built into the western hillside above the estate vineyards. programs became adopted
me out. More often than not they statewide.
would go with my suggestion.” As wine lovers, Garen and Shari dreamed about owning a vine-
yard in Napa. By 1985, their dream came true with the purchase
S
hannon Staglin doesn’t have to look far for inspiration in of a historic 50-acre vineyard, planted with 40 acres of Cabernet
running a family business. Her mother, winery co-founder Sauvignon and 10 acres of Chardonnay. Their first vintage was in
Shari Staglin, has done it for years. 1986, a Cabernet Sauvignon.
Shari, now 77, spent her early childhood in the prairie town of There’s a deep history with the property. In 1868, John Steck-
Mitchell, South Dakota. When she was 12, her family moved to ter and his wife, Mary, purchased a 367-acre parcel for $34 an acre
Southern California. She met Garen, her future husband, on a from Serranus Hastings, one of the wealthiest capitalists of early
blind date when they both were 19 and studying at UCLA. Garen California. They planted 60 acres of grapes, raised cattle and grew
called her and said, “I’ve been appointed by a committee of five to wheat.
be your escort for the evening.” Shari found him charming. After John’s death in 1904, Mary was forced to sell the property.
Garen, now 78, was born in Nebraska but grew up in
Southern California. His father was originally from Ca-
labria, Italy. Born Pasquale Stagliano, his father changed
his name to Ramon Staglin when he became a U.S. citi-
zen. Garen was introduced to the taste of wine, diluted
with club soda, when he was a child.
Garen graduated from UCLA with a degree in elec-
trical and nuclear engineering. Shari’s degree was in in-
ternational relations. Garen went on to get an MBA
from the Stanford Graduate School of Business. The
couple would often drive up to Napa and dream of own-
ing a vineyard when they had “nothing but ambition
and student loans,” recalls Garen.
Married in 1968, they went to Japan, where Shari
worked for a contact lens business. Part of the ROTC,
Garen served as a lieutenant in the Navy and fought in
the Vietnam War. Later he was transferred to the Pen-
tagon, where he worked as a systems analyst under Sec- Purchased in 1985 by Garen and Shari Staglin, the family estate has been expanded to 61 acres over the
retary of Defense Robert McNamara. Shari worked for years. Above: Next generation Sicily and Arthur play around the pool.

Staglin and her husband, Artie Johnson, are building a home for themselves and their daughter and son, ages 6 and 5, respectively, down the road from the original Staglin estate.
Shannon met Johnson while she was on the road selling wine, and she says their children are so close it's as though they're held together by Velcro.
It passed through several different owners before being purchased Shari also decided to work directly with the vineyard crew to
in 1922 by Frank Manley, a gold and oil tycoon who’d made his better understand what they were doing as the seasons changed.
fortune in Alaska — while rumored to be on the run from Texas She went back to school again, this time doing graduate work in
law enforcement. viticulture and enology at UC Davis.
During Prohibition, the vineyards were not maintained. Then, Early on, she recalls, a pesticide was used to treat vineyard pests:
in 1963, the parcel was sold to the Sullivan family, who had mar- “I was told that no one could go near it for at least two weeks, as
riage ties to the de Latour family who owned Beaulieu Vineyard. it was very poisonous to breathe. It clicked in my brain that we
In 1964, legendary viticulturist André Tchelistcheff planted vines should definitely avoid using poisonous substances that would be
for the Georges de Latour Private Reserve bottling. After the death washed off by the rain into the streams and find their way to the
of Louise Sullivan, in 1984, the property was left to her stepson river, not to mention the breathable toxicity for us humans and
Walter Sullivan Jr., who owned it until the Staglins’ purchase in other living things.” This was its first step toward organics in the
1985. early 1990s, and the vineyard became certified organic in 2005.
The first few years were challenging for the Staglins. The vines In 1987, the Staglins purchased an adjacent 12-acre parcel on
had red leaf virus; then phylloxera hit. “It was one thing after the the western hillside, where they would build their family home in
other,” recalls Shari. “And we had to put so much money into the 1993 and their winery caves in 2001. Two more acres were acquired
vineyard to start replanting it and [were] getting nothing back—or in 2007, which included the Steckter home, originally built in
very little back.” 1864. The Staglins restored it to a visitors center and winery of-
Shari suggested that Garen go back to work so they could finance fices. In 2015, a 5-acre property was added, a couple of parcels to
their vineyard dream without needed investors or loans. He be- the east of the estate. Three acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab-
came CEO of Safelite Glass Corp., traveling back and forth to Co- ernet Franc have been planted, and Shannon and her husband,
lumbus, Ohio. Shari was left in charge of the vineyard. Artie Johnson, are building a home for their family there.
“[Vineyard manager] David Abreu and I talked on the phone “What my parents have been able to build and accomplish at
almost every night about what had been done in the vineyard that Staglin Family Vineyard in just under 40 years of ownership is very
day, and what he planned for the next day and rest of the week,” impressive,” explains Shannon. “They took a financial leap of faith
she explains. “We’d walk through the vineyards, and it felt so much in buying this property in 1985. My mother built the business. They
like walking through the rows of corn when I was a little girl in continually reinvested in the property through replants in the ’80s
South Dakota on my grandparents’ farm. I fell in love with the and ’90s. We are currently reinvesting in the next round of replants
vineyard, and I continue to love it just as much.” on the estate.”

Staglin Family Vineyard founders
Garen and Shari Staglin (center)
bottled their first vintage in 1986.
Today, daughter Shannon helms the
estate as winery president. Also
pictured: Shannon's husband Artie and
the couple's two children; Brandon
Staglin and his wife, Nancy (right).
PHOTOGRAPH BY LIZA GERSHMAN

I
n 2005, the family sat down and wrote a mission statement. Staglin lists her husband among the people she admires most,
“All four of us immediately agreed on everything we thought for his tenacity and grit. After stints at Harlan and Mayacamas, he
we should be doing in our lives, including what are the values is now running his personal brand, Le Artishasic, as winemaker.
we should be looking at to make decisions,” recalls Shannon. It only Of Shannon, Artie says she has a rare combination of people, wine
took them an hour from start to finish. The statement includes com- and business skills. “My wife can sit in on a construction meeting,
mitments to ethics, community service, respect for the environment then a vineyard meeting, next a blending session and then lead a
and, of course, making the highest quality wine possible. finance meeting,” he says. “After all of that, she will host a dinner
The Staglin lineup is focused on the estate vineyard, with Cab- for 20 on the estate in the same day. The only way you can get
ernet Sauvignon case production ranging between 1,500 and 2,300 there is by constantly working on your craft.”
annually and Chardonnay production at around 750 cases annu-
B
ally. Three times its wines have appeared in Wine Spectator’s Top ack in the vineyard, Staglin points out the evolution of
100, once for the Chardonnay and twice for the Cabernet; the more than 40 different blocks on 50 acres under vine. She
Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 20th Anniversary 2002 ranked talks with knowledge about organic farming and the evo-
No. 9 in 2005. lution of row orientations, clones, spacing and trellising. She has
There’s also the small production Ineo, a Bordeaux-style blend a soft spot for heritage clones because, she says, they add a savory
that’s Cabernet Franc prominent, with a small amount of a San- note to the Cabernets. “This estate is our differentiator. We will
giovese called Stagliano—a nod to Garen’s father. (For informa- consistently deliver great wines, adapting to making sacrifices mon-
tion about Staglin’s label Salus, which raises etarily or in production quantities when nec-
money for mental and brain health, see “One essary, to uphold that commitment.”
Mind for Good,” page 71.) Pointing at a block of rows, she explains,
Over the years, the Staglin winemaking “This estate is our “The next generation of replants are not go-
roster has been an all-star lineup, including difftiator. We ing to be quite this tall, but they will have a
Cathy Corison, Celia Welch, Bob Levy, Luc larger canopy, because that helps with more
Morlet and Andy Erickson. Most winemak-
will onsisttly ambient cooling in the cluster zone. And
ers moved on to become consultants or work deliv great they will also be higher up off the ground
on their own brand. Accomplished French wines, adti to where it’s cooler.”
consultant Michel Rolland came on board maki sacrifices Speaking of the next generation, that’s un-
in 2000. doubtedly on Staglin’s mind. “Estate plan-
But the Staglins desired a full-time wine- monetily or in ning is important in a family business to tran-
maker to commit to their estate, which they production sition from one generation to the next,
found in Fredrik Johansson, who joined the qutities wh especially when there are rapidly appreciat-
team in 2007. Johansson isn’t only a wine- ing assets during one’s lifetime.”
maker, he’s one of Shannon’s best friends. She
necessy, to She points out that Napa land values have
set Johansson up on a blind date with his uphold that increased close to 40 times since her family
now-wife, Carissa Mondavi. “I’ve only made ommitmt.” purchased the estate in 1985. “Without for-
a match once, so I have a 100% success rate,” mal estate planning, I would owe 40% of the
laughs Staglin. SHANNON STAGLIN current land value at the time of my parents
Staglin and Johansson also partner on a la- passing, a nearly impossible financial feat to
bel called Resa (the Swedish word for “jour- accomplish paying,” she says.
ney,” a nod to Johansson’s heritage). With “The next challenge will be the transfer to
Resa, they make lighter reds such as Grenache and Pinot Noir from the third generation,” she adds. “I learned the term ‘shirtsleeves to
grapes purchased from other regions of California. shirtsleeves’ when I worked in wealth planning at Wells Fargo,
David Abreu arguably has had the deepest impact on the Staglin which refers to wealth that is created by the first generation and
success; the sought-after vineyard consultant has been farming the lost by the third generation. I think about this less as wealth and
land since the Staglins have owned it. “When you get up on those more about an interest in the third generation to take over and
Rutherford shelves, you have to make the wines with that terroir,” lead a family business.”
explains Abreu. “I think the Staglins have done a remarkable job,” Staglin has committed to family ownership and operation. She
he adds. Abreu is further connected to the Staglins; his daughter says her children can make that decision for themselves when the
Nancy is married to Brandon Staglin. time comes. “Our children have grown up on this vineyard. They
Shannon met her husband while working on the road selling interact regularly with our vineyard crew, our winery and business
wine. Artie played baseball for the University of Texas, later work- team, our friends and our clients. They are learning about viticul-
ing for top restaurants such as Nobu in Manhattan and running ture, winemaking and hospitality through osmosis and expo-
the wine program at Casa Casuarina in Miami. Their daughter, sure. Should they choose to continue to lead our family business
Sicily, was born in 2016, while son Arthur came a year later. Sta- when they become adults, they will have institutional knowledge,
glin says the siblings are so close, it’s as if they are held together an invaluable asset to the future success of Staglin Family
by Velcro. Vineyard.”

ONE MIND FOR GOOD
STAGLIN FAMILY VINEYARD FOCUSES PHILANTHROPIC
EFFORTS ON MENTAL HEALTH
“I
was diagnosed with schizophrenia when I was 18 years old, during my developed schizophrenia and had initially recov-
freshman year in Dartmouth College,” explains Brandon Staglin. “It was ered, but then went off his medication. “Just
the scariest and darkest time of my life,” he adds, describing horrifying like I did a couple of years before,” recalls
hallucinations. “I was exhausted and desperate, because I was constantly Staglin. The son had relapsed, just like
worried by delusions that I might make some horrible mistake and be sent Staglin. “The health care system could
directly to hell. I was seriously contemplating ending it all for myself.” no longer help him, and the article re- BRANDON
Now Staglin, 51, is president of One Mind, considered the nation’s most vealed all the deficiencies in the men- STAGLIN
impactful nonprofit in the brain health ecosystem. The organization ad- tal health system that we had.”
vances science and improves services for brain and mental health by accel- “It enraged me to read that about
erating collaborative research and advocacy. this young man who was so like me. … I
The goal is to enable all people facing brain health challenges to build resolved to do something about it. I re-
healthy and productive lives. One Mind and Staglin Family Vineyard are solved to capitalize on my family’s having
aligned as organizations; the winery hosts a festival and produces Salus started this organization,” explains Staglin. He
wines to help raise money and bring awareness. started blogging and hosting webcasts, interview-
ing scientists and advocates about their experiences and discov-
eries. He wanted people to understand that recovery is possible.
He became One Mind’s first communications director in 2005,
and with that, became even more transparent about his own ex-
periences. “It’s always rewarding for me to connect with folks
who go through similar things.” He was named One Mind’s pres-
ident in 2018. “I can’t imagine any other way to resolve the fact
that I live with schizophrenia, other than to give back to the
community and to pay it forward.”
One aspect of One Mind is its ability to bring universities to-
gether in collaborative projects, which can accelerate informa-
tion gathering and, in turn, discoveries. For example, in the early
2000s, One Mind launched a study across the United States and
Canada that has since developed eight biomarkers used to de-
tect whether someone is at risk for serious mental illness. Used
in a clinical setting, these biomarkers can provide a 70% accu-
The Music Festival for Brain Health is a multifaceted event, featuring live music and wine dinners.
racy in predicting whether a young person will develop psycho-
One Mind was created by Brandon’s parents, Garen and Shari, after his di- sis within two years before it happens.
agnosis. Since 1995, the Music Festival for Brain Health has raised and lever- One Mind has also been a key funder and outreach partner for the Ken
aged more than $530 million among donors and with support from the Na- Burns documentary Hiding in Plain Sight: Youth Mental Illness. Staglin says
TOP: TAI POWER SEEFF; BOTTOM: COURTESY OF STAGLIN (3)
tional Institute of Mental Health. Held at the estate every September, the One Mind has helped produce media that has reached more than 10 million
event brings together chefs, wineries, musicians and scientists. There’s a people around the world, with messaging about ways
scientific symposium, wine tasting, concert and VIP dinner. Artists who have to empower neurodiversity and reduce stigma.
performed include Melissa Etheridge, the Pointer Sisters, OneRepublic, Lyle To those dealing with a mental health challenge,
Lovett, Jennifer Hudson and Sheryl Crow. whether it's you or a loved one, he says don’t give up.
Brandon’s sister, Shannon Staglin, oversees the wine label Salus, which “Make sure they know that you love them, and that
debuted with a 2000 Chardonnay and 1999 Caber- you’re doing everything you can to help them. Support
net Sauvignon. All profits from the sales of Sa- them no matter what they’re going through. If you’re
lus Chardonnay ($60) and Cabernet Sauvi- dealing with that yourself, hold on to your dreams. It’s
gnon ($115) go to brain health research. important to have a sense of purpose in life,” he adds.
The wines, named after the Roman He also points out that recovery is not a straight line—
goddess of health and well-being, it’s a circuitous path with ups and downs. “Wellness is a
comprise a mix of estate and non- journey to be on for your whole life, and that pertains
estate grapes from quality vineyards to everyone.”
in Napa Valley. Staglin’s medication prevents him from enjoying
When the music festival was first wine, but he believes: “Alcohol in moderation can serve
created, Brandon wasn’t named as as a wonderful social lubricant, which in turn can bene-
the inspiration. But in 2005, he read fit mental health.”
about a festival donor whose son had —MaryAnn Worobiec
JENNIFER HUDSON

Sensational
SICILY Understanding
the region's signature
GRAPES & WINES
By ALISON NAPJUS
I
T’S a golden age for the wines of
Sicily. The Italian island’s distinc-
tive bottlings, many of them from
native grapes, can firmly claim a
place in the world of fine wines.
Fifty years ago Sicilian producers’ pri-
mary focus was bulk wine. But beginning
in the 1980s and ’90s, a number of wine
estates forged a new path, adopting mod-
ern techniques, and in the 2000s, inter-
est from foreign winemakers in the po-
tential of Mount Etna fueled a rebirth of
quality wine production in the area.
There’s a synergy to this success, says
Alessio Planeta, whose family’s Planeta
winery has been a pioneer of quality pro-
duction. Planeta cites awareness of the
global market and promotion of the is-
land’s wines in that space, deeper under-
standing of Sicily’s varied terroirs and na-
tive varieties, and healthy competition
paired with a sense of community.
“In short, Sicily is an island,” says
GRAPES Planeta, “But now it is joined
OF SICILY
Catarratto to the world by a thousand invis-
Nero d’Avola ible bridges.”
Carricante U.S. consumers have taken no-
Nerello
Mascalese tice. Today, Sicily exports 21% of
its production to the U.S., and total
exports to the U.S. market grew by 40%
from 2016 and 2021, according to a 2022
Nomisma Wine Monitor report. Wine
Spectator went from reviewing fewer than
50 wines from Sicily in the entire decade
of the 1990s to more than 225 wines in
MAZE ROW WINE MERCHANT
2021 alone, with close to half of them

earning 90 points or higher.
Let this in-depth guide connect you to
Nerello Mascalese thrives in the vineyards of Mount Etna. Sicily’s grape varieties and wines.

GRAPES OF SICILY
CATARRATTO
ALSO KNOWN AS: Catarratto Bianco, Catarratto Bianco
“In the higher hill and mountainous areas, [at] over 1,300 feet, we obtain
wines with great acidity, freshness and minerality, with remarkable notes of
grapefruit, pineapple and sambuco flowers. The results show complexity and
Comune, Catarratto Bianco Lucido, Catarratto Bianco excellent aging power,” says Sal Romano, export manager for Feudo Disisa.
Extra Lucido, Lucido Winemakers working with Catarratto strive to preserve its aromatic profile.
This includes harvesting in late August or
early September, and the use of inert
gases and reductive conditions to preserve
musts and wines from oxidation. Fermen-
tation and/or aging in oak is rare; wine-
makers rely instead on stainless steel and/
or cement vessels. Additional richness and
complexity may come from extending skin
maceration and/or additional lees contact.
What does it taste like?

Reputable producers have advanced their
techniques in the vineyard and winery to
produce smaller crops of more flavorful
grapes that result in fresh, appealing
wines. Today, the best examples are typi-
cally softly acidic and lightly fleshy, with
flavors of citrus, tropical and/or stone fruit
set in a light- to medium-bodied frame.
Anise, white blossoms and fresh rosemary
The Di Lorenzo family and export manager Sal Romano or thyme are common accents, and an un-
(second from left) at their Monreale estate Feudo Disisa derlying minerality often shows itself as a
R
salty quality on the finish.
ELATED to northern Italy’s Garganega grape and referred Why is it produced almost exclusively in Sicily?
to generically as Catarratto or Catarratto Bianco. For many Historically, this native variety was grown for use in the Marsala blend, one of
years Catarratto Bianco Comune and Catarratto Bianco Sicily’s most important products in the 1800s. Through the first half of the
Lucido were thought to be two different varieties, but DNA testing 20th century, still wine made from Catarratto was sold as bulk wine to cooler
shows that they are two clones of the same variety; Extra Lucido is climate, northern wine regions to blend in color, flavor and weight to the local
wines. “The natural [separation] of Sicily as an island possibly reduced Catar-
a third clone. Referring to all Catarratto simply as Lucido is a re-
ratto’s spread to other areas in the past. At the same time, Lucido is a truly
cent rebranding of the grape, supported in particular by the Sicilia
Mediterranean cultivar requiring high levels of solar radiation, [recommend-
DOC consortium. At this time, most bottlings in the U.S. have not
ing it] to Sicily,” says Rallo.
adopted the name change, but more will appear in the future.
Recommended Wines
Where is it grown? Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicilia Masso 2021 (90, $24)
Catarratto is Sicily’s most widely planted grape Feudo Disisa Catarratto Monreale Lu Bancu 2020 (88, $18)
variety and fourth in Italy as a whole. It is Casa Girelli Sicilia Lamura White 2021 (87, $10)
found throughout the island, but plant- Feudo di Santa Tresa Catarratto-Pinot Grigio Terre Siciliane Purato 2021 (86, $15)
ings are concentrated in the western half Donnafugata Sicilia White Anthìlia 2020 (86, $18)
of Sicily, specifically in the provinces of
Agrigento, Trapani and Palermo.
Catarratto performs well in calcareous
soils, including sandy, lower-elevation
sites along the coastline. But it also benefits Catarratto
from the diurnal temperature differences and
chalk- and clay based-soils common to the inland
hills, including the Alcamo and Monreale DOCs.
How is it made and what are its styles?

“Lucido can be found in two main styles,” says Antonio
Rallo, owner of Donnafugata. “An approachable, fruit-
driven style with stone fruit and citrus notes, fresh and
BOTTOM: HANS PETER SIFFERT
uncomplicated, made for early consumption; this usu-

ally comes from the coastal areas or lighter, sandier
soils. Lucido is also capable of producing terroir-driven
[wines], especially when cultivated at elevation and far
from the sea.” Donnafugata’s Tenuta di Contessa Entellina estate

ferments both of the winery’s Nero d’Avolas in cement tanks,
but maceration times, stems or no stems, total aging and
other decisions separate the Vrucara from the Lagnusa bot-
tling. Others seeking a similarly neutral vessel utilize
stainless steel.
Nero d’Avola’s tannins often recommend it to
oak fermentation and/or aging, including new
oak. Very generally, Nero d’Avola with oak influ-
ence will feature darker fruit flavors, with more
robust body and structure; bottlings that es-
chew oak will be brighter, often lower in alcohol
Nero d’Avola and more medium-bodied.

Nero d’Avola is known for its juicy blackberry, black cherry
and sometimes currant fruit flavors. Fragrant herb and spice,
ranging from dried thyme to menthol to anise to black pep-
per, are common accents. It’s medium- to full-bodied and
tannic, with good acidity; structured, but not overly so. Syrah
is a good comparison.
Feudo Montoni’s Lagnusa cru Many examples of Nero d’Avola from areas in southeastern
Sicily and along the southern coast of central Sicily are
NERO D’AVOLA
darker in color, richer and more full-bodied, good candidates for oak fermen-
tation or aging. Some of the inland areas of southeastern Sicily are more ele-
gant in style, with softer tannins. This includes Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the is-
ALSO KNOWN AS: Calabrese land’s only DOCG, which regulates a blend of 50% to 70% Nero d’Avola with
T
Frappato. Bottlings from northwesten Sicily, including hillside sites south of
HE ITALIAN National Registry of Vine Varieties records Palermo, are more even-keeled, medium-bodied examples, bright and bram-
the official and historic grape name as Calabrese: “coming bly. And at the heart of Sicily, the mountainous central area produces versions
from Calabria.” But today, a reported 98% of vine plant- that are often slimmer and fresher, with more red fruits and mineral character.
ings are located in Sicily, making “Nero d’Avola” the more com- Why is it produced almost exclusively in Sicily?
mon moniker. Through the 1800s and into the 1900s, Nero d’Avola was mostly produced as
bulk wine to ship to northern European wine regions as a blending agent. The
Where is it grown? “fashion” for quality Nero d’Avola with a sense of place is relatively recent. A
Nero d’Avola is widespread throughout Sicily, second only to Catarratto in to- few dedicated local families throughout the island persevered with the pro-
tal vineyard plantings. This adaptable grape variety thrives along the island’s duction of quality Nero d’Avola in the second half of the 20th century, but its
warm and dry southern shores as well as in the high-elevation inland moun- height has really come in the past two decades.
tains, and some places in between. Its Sicilian “Nero d’Avola is the ‘father’ of Sicilian vines—
namesake is the town of Avola, located in the it represents Sicily in the world,” says Carmelo
Noto DOC in the southeastern corner of the is- Bonetta, co-owner of Baglio del Cristo di Cam-
land. But essentially, Nero d’Avola is planted al- pobello in northern Sicily. A handful of vines in
most everywhere except Mount Etna. California and Australia hint that Nero d’Avola
How is it made and what are its styles? might have a future outside Sicily, but for now it
Nero d’Avola is bottled as both blended and remains Sicily’s own. “Nero d’Avola in Sicily finds
single-variety wines. Starting with the 2016 a perfect marriage between the vine and the
vintage, it can be sold only as a DOC or DOCG land, where it shows maximum expression of its
wine. This means no Nero d’Avola is bottled kaleidoscopelike potential,” says Sireci. “The va-
under Sicily’s large Terre Siciliane IGT or as rietal is given the possibility in Sicily, with its di-
vino da tavola. Instead, look for it from the verse suitable zones, to develop its variables of
Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, numerous small expressions.”
DOCs, and most typically, the Sicilia DOC. Recommended Wines
Just as Nero d’Avola adapts to its terroir and Morgante Nero d’Avola Sicilia Don Antonio
local conditions, it also adapts in the winery Riserva 2018 (92, $40)
and to its distinctive vineyard character. “At Cusumano Sicilia Sàgana Vigneto del Torrone
Bianco Tenuta San Giacomo 2019 (91, $50)
Montoni, we make a subdivision of the vine-
Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Sicilia Lagnusa 2020
yard into different cru, [to] produce two com-
(91, $25)
pletely different types of wine with Nero
Valle dell’Acate Nero d’Avola Sicilia Il Moro 2017
BOTTOM: MALTE JÄGER
d’Avola. Winemaking is focused on allowing (90, $30)

the strong identity of the grapes and the ter- Zisola Noto 2020 (90, $20)
roir to express themselves,” says Fabio Sireci, Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola Sicilia Sallier de la
owner of Feudo Montoni in central Sicily. Sireci Diego (left) and Alberto Cusumano Tour 2020 (89, $16)

GRAPES OF SICILY
CARRICANTE
ALSO KNOWN AS: Catanese Bianco, Nocera Bianca
A
LMOST ubiquitously referred to as Carricante, sometimes
with slightly altered spellings; occasionally called Catanese
Bianco, and very rarely, Nocera Bianca. In the past, Car-
ricante was sometimes confused with Catarratto.
Where is it grown?
The world’s plantings of Carricante are found almost entirely on the slopes of
Sicily’s Mount Etna, where it has thrived in the mountain’s volcanic soils since
ancient times. Based on the star power of wines from Etna and the intriguing
results from this distinctive grape, vineyard acreage for Carricante has surged Brothers Antonio (left) and Salvino Benanti with their father, Giuseppe
in the past decade. The number of Etna and Etna Superiore white wines bot-
tled increased 37% in the first half of 2022 versus the same six months in “Other schools of thought differ,” says Benanti, “including blending Carri-
2021, according to the Etna consortium. cante with Catarratto and even using oak in parts of the vinification process.
Carricante excels in Etna’s high-altitude vineyards, with many of the best Obviously these choices will result in more fruity, powerful wines, with some
examples from sites beginning at about 1,900 feet above sea level and rising toasty notes.”
to roughly 3,300 feet. Wines labeled as Superiore, the top category for Etna
whites, are produced entirely from grapes harvested in the commune of Milo,
Racy acidity and minerality are the two characteristics that most impact the
with vineyards from roughly 2,400 feet to 2,950 feet above sea level.
perception of Carricante on the palate. These components work within an
How is it made and what are its styles? overall citrusy profile—Meyer lemon, orange and grapefruit—with some stone
Wines labeled as Etna or Etna Superiore account for the majority of bottlings fruits and notes of orchard blossom, fennel seed, eucalyptus and other herbs.
from Carricante. For the basic Etna white category, Carricante must make up Depending on the terroir, minerality in the wine shows as an underlying
at least 60% of the blend; for the Superiore category, 80% is required. If a flintiness or persistent streak of salinity, petrol or lanolin. “[These are] wines
blend, Catarratto is a traditional partner for Carricante, but other white variet- that may resemble a Chablis when they are young, but which acquire Ries-
ies such as Minella Bianca or Trebbiano are also allowed, choices that affect ling-like petrol and flint notes as they evolve,” says Benanti.
the resulting wine style. Tóth says Carricante can also show considerable differences based on vine-
yard elevation and soil. “Starting from
[1,950 to 2,300 feet] we find deeper,
darker soils, with a softer, rounder, more
complete profile [for Carricante] in its
youth,” she says, describing a warmer
range of fleshy yellow fruit flavors with
wild herb and floral notes. At higher ele-
vations, with poorer soils, Tóth finds ex-
amples to be: “Linear, sharp, compact ...
a real mountain white.”
Why is it produced almost

exclusively in Sicily?
Parts of Mount Etna are among the
rainiest in Sicily, a contrast to the arid
conditions found elsewhere on the island
much of the year. Yet the mountain
Planeta’s Feudo di Mezzo winery
slopes receive ample sunlight, good
ventilation and dramatic temperature swings between day
Today, many producers choose for Carricante to dominate
and night, factors tailored to Carricante, a slow-ripening
their Etna white blend, or eschew other varieties altogether.
variety that’s high in acidity.
“We at Benanti have always produced Carricante as a varietal Carricante It’s also a grape with the abilityto reflect Etna’s various soils.
wine. We believe this allows us to present the most typical, finest
“Carricante from Mount Etna is capable of delivering vibrant, pure,
and purest wine possible,” says Salvino Benanti, co-owner with his
ageworthy wines with a very clear volcanic sense of place,” says Benanti.
brother Antonio and father, Giuseppe, of their family winery. .
TOP: VALERIO D’URSO; BOTTOM: PLANETA (2)
With the renewed interest in Carricante, Etna’s producers are utilizing a va- Recommended Wines
riety of winemaking techniques to explore the grape’s stylistic range. But Benanti Etna White Superiore Pietra Marina 2017 (93, $128)
most avoid new and/or toasted oak, especially small-format oak barriques. Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna White Calderara Sottana Cuvée delle Vigne Niche
Stainless steel and larger, neutral oak containers are common. “In the cellar, 2020 (92, $48)
we feel that less is more,” says Planeta winemaker Patricia Tóth. Like Benanti, F. Tornatore Etna White Pietrarizzo 2021 (92, $60)
Planeta prefers stainless steel fermentation and aging, working carefully with Idda Sicilia White 2020 (91, $54)
the lees to ensure complexity. These versions are minerally and graceful. Planeta Carricante Sicilia Eruzione 1614 2018 (91, $27)

GRAPES OF SICILY
forward, with red cherry, raspberry, strawberry, cranberry

and/or red currant notes. There’s a notable herbal over-
tone, including dried medicinal, Mediterranean or bal-
samico herbs.
Nerello Mascalese is relatively high in both acidity and
tannins, creating a taut, refined structure for the flavor pro-
file. Another component of Nerello Mascalese is its mineral-
ity, which ranges in character from a subtle earthiness to
salinity to ashy or tarry smoke notes and beyond. Today
Nerello Mascalese is prized on Mount Etna for its ability to
express the variegated terroir resulting from this active
volcano.
“Surely the soil is what makes Nerello Mascalese
from Mount Etna so special,” says Bouselham.
Tasca d’Almerita’s Etna vineyards “These are mineral soils rich in obsidian, made up of
layers of lava that alternate, with vineyards reaching
NERELLO Nerello
up to 3,280 feet above sea level.”
Etna’s soils vary in consistency based on the site’s el-
MASCALESE
Mascalese evation and the age of the eruption on which they are
based. They range from fine, sandlike ash through to large
pieces of deconstructed lava known locally lapilli or ripiddu. Vine
ALSO KNOWN AS: Negrello, Nerello Calabrese, Niureddu
roots dig through these porous soils to find water and minerals.
T
HE SUCCESS and attention given to Mount Etna’s red Why is it produced almost exclusively in Sicily?
Nerello Mascalese has evolved to thrive in its birthplace. Factors associated
wines over the past decade has led to the widespread use
with elevation are key components to its success. Mount Etna’s vineyards, ris-
of Nerello Mascalese as the common name for this native
ing to about 3,300 feet, and the hillside sites of the Faro DOC, up to about
Sicilian variety.
1,200 feet, provide an environment in which it flourishes. “It is on Etna that
[Nerello Mascalese] found its natural habitat,” says Bouselham. “In addition to
Where is it grown? the characteristics of the soils, Nerello Mascalese loves the temperature varia-
Nerello Mascalese shines brightest as the star of the Etna DOC red wines,
tions between day and night that characterize the volcano.”
where it must be at least 80% of the blend. In that appellation, its usual
The grape’s affinity for volcanic terroir and its difficult nature in the vine-
blending partner is Nerello Cappuccio. Nerello Mascalese also has a strong
yard have contributed to its limited spread outside Sicily. In fact, many Nerello
presence in the far northeastern tip of Sicily, near Messina. It is the primary
Mascalese vineyards were abandoned or pulled during the 20th century; it’s a
grape variety from the Faro DOC, which produces only red wines, with Ner-
low-yielding variety that’s costly in the vineyard, requiring hand-harvesting
ello Mascalese accounting for 45% to 60% of the blend. Outside of Etna and
and other labors. And as with all late-ripening varieties, there’s a greater
Faro the grape is not dominant, but it is planted throughout the island. From
threat of disease while waiting for ripeness.
these sources it is often blended with other varieties and bottled under the
Terre Siciliane IGT. Recommended Wines
Vini Franchetti-Passopisciaro Terre Siciliane Contrada P 2019 (94, $90)
How is it made and what are its styles? Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Vecchi
Nerello Mascalese is primarily produced as a red wine with a sense of finesse Vigne 2019 (94, $144)
and restraint; it’s well-defined and expressive without becoming muscular or Tasca d’Almerita Etna Tenuta Tascante Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. 2017 (93, $120)
exuberant. And with the desire to showcase the grape’s restraint as well as its Giovanni Rosso Etna 2019 (93, $51)
ability to express terroir, most producers limit the influence of oak, particu- F. Tornatore Etna Pietrarizzo 2019 (93, $60)
larly new oak, when vinifying and aging it. Producers that do use oak during Emanuele Scammacca del Murgo Etna 2020 (90, $22)
fermentation most commonly employ large-format vessels, neutral in charac- Terra Constantino Etna de Aetna 2020 (90, $32)
ter. At F. Tornatore, the winery’s Etna reds are fermented in either stainless
steel or cement tanks before aging in large oak botti.
“In the cellar, we follow the viticultural philosophy to respect our grapes
without intervening too much and without influencing their character during
winemaking,” says Nawal Bouselham, export manager of F. Tornatore, a fam-
INSET GRAPES: GETTY IMAGES; BOTTOM: MAZE ROW WINE MERCHANT
ily estate owned by Francesco Tornatore and his wife, Nina Puglisi; Bousel-
ham’s husband, Giuseppe, is the next generation at the winery.
Nerello Mascalese also makes distinctive examples as bottlings of spar-
kling and still rosé. The still rosés are notable for their typically deeper hue—
more of a light garnet or ruby color than the ubiquitous Provençal pink—and
their lightly tannic structure, which recommends them to food.

Nerello Mascalese is often compared to Pinot Noir, specifically from
Burgundy, for its ability to express nuanced yet concentrated flavor and
terroir in an elegant, light- to medium-weight frame. These wines are fruit
Nina Puglisi and Francesco Tornatore of F. Tornatore

GRAPES OF SICILY
Mapping the
WINES differences between the two are subtle, and comparing Sicilia DOC to Terre
Siciliane IGT tells a consumer less about where a wine is from and more about
what went into the bottle. Terre Siciliane IGT can be produced from a long list
A
t just over 9,900 square miles, Sicily encompasses one DOCG appella- of approved varieties; those from Sicilia DOC reflect a slightly shorter list.
tion—Cerasuolo di Vittoria—and 23 DOC areas. With the exception of Many producers consider wines labeled as Terre Siciliane to be their intro-
the Etna and Sicilia DOCs, most of Sicily’s DOCs are relatively small, ductory examples. These will often source grapes from multiple vineyards,
with limited examples shipped to the U.S. including sites in different parts of the island. Versions labeled Sicilia DOC will
The majority of wine from Sicily is bottled under the Terre Siciliane IGT, fol- frequently source grapes from a more localized area, even a single cru or
lowed by the Sicilia DOC. Both designations allow the production of sparkling, vineyard. Sometimes checking the wine’s front or back label for the town in
white, rosé, red and dessert wines. Both allow grapes sourced from anywhere which the winery is located can be a very general reference to the style of
in the region of Sicily, either blended wines or bottlings labeled as single-vari- wine you might expect based on Sicily’s viticultural geography, broadly out-
ety versions (85% or more of the listed variety) or multi-variety versions. The lined below.
West
SICILY
This area was historically important to WEST NORTH
EAST
the production of dessert wine from CENTRAL
the Marsala DOC; today, more than
Sicily’s SOUTH Faro
two-thirds of the vineyards here re- Winegrowing EAST Monreale
main planted to white varieties, albeit Areas
more commonly used for still wines. Contea di • MESSINA
PALERMO
• Sclafani
Vineyards: Coastal sites rising to in-
land hills
Etna
Elevations: As high as 1,900 feet
MT. ETNA Ionian Sea
Soils: Generally calcareous, mixing S N
Alcamo
red clay in some areas
Marsala
Menfi • CATANIA
Central
Riesi
0 km 20
Wine production is limited in the Contessa

Entellina
heart of the island, with some notable
exceptions moving toward Sicily’s Pantelleria Cerasuolo ITALY
• SIRACUSA
Mediterranean di Vittoria
coastlines, highlighted below. DOCG/
Sea AREA OF
Vineyards: From Palermo and run- Vittoria Noto DETAIL
DOC
ning south, hillside vineyards are
common, including the Alcamo, Con-
tessa Entellina and Monreale DOCs. as calcareous clay. In the Contea di ble concentration of hillside sites in Southeast
In north-central Sicily, a mountainous Sclafani DOC, lower-elevation soils the Faro DOC, at Sicily’s northeastern This part of Sicily is extremely hot
inland region encompasses the Con- are clay dominant, mixed with iron; tip. The majority of Sicily’s northeast- and dry, strongly influenced by the
tea di Sclafani DOC. To the south, higher locations are a mix of sand and ern vineyards are planted on Mt. Et- warm sirocco winds from Africa.
roughly from the Menfi DOC to the sandstone. Coastal vineyards to the na’s slopes as part of the Etna DOC. Vineyards: Primarily coastal locations.
Riesi DOC, vineyards hug the coast south mix sedimentary and sandy. Elevations: Up to about 1,200 feet in Elevations: Low-lying elevations, up
Northeast &
through to inland hills. the Faro DOC and up to about 3,300 to around 450 feet.
Elevations: South of Palermo, eleva- feet in the Etna DOC. Soils: Around Vittoria, home to the
tions rise to about 1,300 feet. In Mount Etna Soils: The coastal vineyards and the DOC of the same name and Sicily’s
north-central Sicily, vineyard sites Mt. Etna is the rainiest part of Sicily, Faro DOC show a mix of sand, cal- only DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria, soils
climb mountain slopes up to 2,900 with an average of 47 inches per year; caire and clay, depending on location. are sandy, often red in hue due to
feet. On the southern coast, vineyards the average for the rest of Sicily is The Etna DOC is volcanic, from sand- mixed iron oxide, with white rocks
are lower-lying, to about 800 feet. about half that, with less than an inch like, compacted ash to pumice to and calcaire. In the Noto DOC, the soil
Soils: The area encompassing the Al- of precipitation in July and August. gravelly pebbles to large chunks of shows a strong limestone content,
camo, Contessa Entellina and Mon- Vineyards: Limited vineyard plantings deconstructed lava known as lapilli with some mixed clay, and large
reale DOCs are extremely chalky in are found among the plain that lies or ripiddu soils. white rocks coating the surface of
some parts and can be summarized along the northern coast, with a nota- most vineyards.
Other White Grapes to Know softly acidic, with floral, almond and Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé (94, $48) Siciliane Red Carolina Marengo for
spice character. Try: Feudo Montoni KISA 2019 (90, $26)
Grillo: Bright and citrusy, with subtle Inzolia Sicilia Fornelli 2021 (90, $22) Other Red Grapes to Know
saline and herb accents. Shows good Perricone: Earthy, with firm tannins
Zibibbo (Muscat d’Alexandria): Fra- Frappato: Lively, with abundant rasp- and notes of red fruit and herb. Often
potential, with bottlings on the rise. berry, strawberry and cherry accented
Try: Zisola Sicilia White Azisa 2021 grant orange fruit and blossom notes blended with Nero d’Avola. Try: Tasca
and a subtle spiciness. Celebrated from by herb and spice. Blended with Nero d’Almerita Sicilia Contea di Sclafani
(89, $15) d’Avola in the Cerasuolo di Vittoria
the Pantelleria DOC as a passito or Tentuta Regaleali Riserva del Conte
Inzolia (Insolia): Lightly fleshy and dessert wine style. Try: Donnafugata DOCG. Try: Feudi del Pisciotto Terre 2016 (90, $200)

Buying Guide
Cabernet Sauvignon ages in French oak barrels within the cellars of historic Chilean winery Viñedo Chadwick.
Spectator Selections New Wines From BY THE NUMBERS

87 Highly Recommended Around The World The Nov. 15 Buying Guide features 51 classic
wines and more than 275 outstanding wines
87 Collectibles 90 Argentina, Chile from among reviews of nearly 450 new releases.
88 Smart Buys 92 Italy Members can access tasting notes and scores for
those wines, along with hundreds of additional
90 Best Values 96 New Zealand wines reviewed since our last issue, using the
88 About the Buying Guide 98 California Wine Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.
JORGE GUY WENBORNE HUYGHE
106 Oregon

S P E C TATO R S E L E C T I O N S
Highly Recommended
The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes
top-scorers and wines that represent optimal
purchases based on their combination of score,
price and availability.
96 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza

Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae 2019
94 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc Martin-
borough Te Muna 2021 $25 NEW ZEALAND
Aromatic and complex, this white shows off pure white
$140 ARGENTINA Give this red some air and then marvel and ruby grapefruit, lemongrass, passion fruit and dried
at the elegant orchestra of violet, guava, wild berry and pineapple flavors at the core, but it’s the details of matcha,
pomegranate aromas and flavors that keep playing on to sea salt, fresh-grated ginger and mint that make an impres-
the end. A push of fresh acidity midpalate adds details of sion on the long, sleek, juicy and expressive finish. Drink
loam, marinated olive and orange peel that linger effort- now. 43,000 cases made, 30,000 cases imported.—M.W.
lessly around the core fruit flavors and integrated, lithe
tannins. Shows lots of promise, which should reward cel-
97 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
2019 $195 CALIFORNIA Gorgeous bay leaf, alder
laring. Drink now through 2036. 440 cases made, 150
cases imported.—A.R.
Collectibles
smoke and warmed black currant confiture aromas and Wines that will improve most from additional
flavors take the lead, but it’s a close race with waves of bottle age and that show the greatest potential to
warm stone, freshly plowed loam, singed tobacco and
gain in value.
savory accents joining in. This has muscle, definition and
drive, with a cast iron note adding a growl of terroir
through the finish. Best from 2024 through 2042. 500
cases made.—J.M.
95 Escarpment Pinot Noir Martinborough

Kupe 2020 $120 NEW ZEALAND A stunning
wine, opening up with fleshy black cherry, pomegranate
and blood orange flavors that show perfumed details of
green cardamom seed and dried violet. The tannins are
Harlan Estate Napa Valley 2018 $1,650
dense, but also thick and velvety, giving plenty of trac-
tion to the long, expressive finish, where notes of malty 99 CALIFORNIA A classic example of 2018 Napa
Cabernet, this has a deep well of fruit in the form of
Assam black tea and forest floor linger. Drink now through
96 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Central Otago
Burn Cottage Vineyard 2019 $65 NEW
ZEALAND Aromatic and expressive, with notes of tarragon,
2032. 300 cases made, 120 cases imported.—M.W. black currant, blackberry and boysenberry reduction laced
liberally with notes of smoldering tobacco, warm earth
and tar, which compete for attention on the muscular yet
sage and white pepper mingling with fresh, juicy flavors driven finish. Subtle bay leaf and cast iron echoes at the
of raspberry, cherry and pomegranate. This is clearly de- very end add intrigue. This should be among the longer-
fined and focused, with firm tannins providing wonderful lived wines of the vintage. Best from 2024 through
structure for the long, complex finish, where a note of 2045.—J.M.
dried lavender lingers. Drink now through 2030. 2,400
cases made, 500 cases imported.—M.W.
95 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir McMinnville Mom-

tazi 2019 $90 OREGON A wine of dimension
and detail, this Pinot is the complete package, offering
polished, multilayered flavors of raspberry, blueberry,
orange peel and dusky spices that build richness and ten-
sion toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2030.
195 cases made.—T.F.
98 Abreu Madrona Ranch St. Helena 2018

$650 CALIFORNIA Gorgeous in every facet, this
drips with dark cassis, steeped plum and blackberry reduc-
96 Carte Blanche Cabernet Sauvignon Napa

Valley Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vine-
yard 2019 $175 CALIFORNIA This version is well-packed
tion flavors while maintaining form and focus, thanks to
seamlessly inlaid graphite and alder girders for support. The
long finish cruises through slowly and authoritatively, with
with dark currant, fig and boysenberry compote flavors, hints of loam, espresso crema and ganache, all without be-
supported by hints of charcoal, roasted apple wood and ing brooding or heavy-handed. The alder hint extends
warm earth. Muscular and grippy, with an espresso crema prominently through the rich finish. A flat-out stunner.
accent on the finish. For fans of the big, muscular style. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and
Best from 2024 through 2038. 500 cases made.—J.M. Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2045. 418 cases made.—J.M.

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Collectibles / Smart Buys
About the Buying Guide

T his Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are
provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained
below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com.
Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote
Colgin IX Estate Napa Valley 2019 $NA
the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below.
97 CALIFORNIA This offers a pretty large-scaled core
of cassis, blackberry and mulberry fruit flavors sitting atop
Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria a band of graphite, while singed mesquite and apple wood
James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port and sweet tobacco notes fill in along the edges. Dense,
MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand but juicy and well-defined through the finish. To be re-
Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South Africa leased November 2022. Best from 2024 through 2040.
1,700 cases made.—J.M.
Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines
Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile
Kristen Bieler France, Israel
How We Do the Tastings

Wine Spectator editors taste more than 11,000 wines each year. Wines are tasted in our offices in New York and
Napa, Calif. Tastings are also conducted on location in various European winegrowing regions.
All tastings are conducted in private, under controlled conditions. Wines are always tasted blind, in flights
organized by varietal, appellation or region. Bottles are bagged and coded. Tasters are told only the general type
of wine (varietal or region) and the vintage. Price is not taken into account. Each tasting begins with a wine
previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the
blind tasting to ensure consistency. A typical tasting session consists of 20 to 30 wines, with a maximum of two
sessions per day. We retaste many wines to confirm impressions, always in subsequent blind tastings. 97 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount
Veeder 2018 $150 CALIFORNIA This distinctive
version leads with pine forest, sweet bay leaf and savory
Notes and ratings are entered directly into our database prior to the removal of the bags. Additional comments notes, with a core of steeped currant and bitter plum fruit,
may be added to a note after the identity of the wine is revealed, but the score is never changed. plus ample tobacco and warm stone notes in the back-
ground. The finish is chiseled in feel, with racy acidity
taking just as prominent of a role as tannic grip. With
Featured Wines: Spectator Selections, Labels and Photographs range, character and energy to spare, this should cruise
Each issue, our editors choose wines with special qualities; called Spectator Selections, they are highlighted in the in the cellar. Best from 2025 through 2045. 2,650 cases
first pages of this Buying Guide, along with their labels. The categories are described below. In addition, selected made.—J.M.
reviews throughout the Buying Guide include a photograph of a winery principal, presenting these producers in
a more personal way. All labels and images are chosen by Wine Spectator for editorial purposes only and do not Smart Buys
represesent any commercial transaction between Wine Spectator and the producers whose wines are featured.
Wines that deliver fine character at affordable
Highly Recommended: The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that prices and that are broadly available.
represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability.
Collectibles: Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest
potential to gain in value.
Smart Buys: Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available.
Best Values: Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution.
About Prices and Wines Tasted

Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price. When the suggested retail price is not available, we publish the
prevailing wholesale price with a standard markup added. Actual retail prices may vary.
Wines are chosen for tasting from among those sent to our offices for review and those purchased at retail.
Because we for the most part serve a U.S. audience, we prefer to review wines that are widely available there.
About the 100-Point Scale 93 Craggy Range Pinot Noir Martinborough

2019 $29 NEW ZEALAND Fresh and vibrant, with
a mix of wild strawberry, raspberry and açaí berry flavors
Ratings reflect how highly our editors regard each wine relative to other wines in its category and are based on on a silky frame. This has intensity but also a lovely sense
potential quality—how good the wine will be when at its peak. The score summarizes a wine’s overall quality; of aromatics and elegance, ending with forest floor, spice
the tasting note describes the wine’s style and character. and tarragon grace notes on the finish, which add a ter-
rific savory edge. Drink now through 2030. 7,200 cases
95–100 Classic: a great wine made, 1,500 cases imported.—M.W.
90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style
85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities
80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine 400,000+ WINE RATINGS
Search our database by winery, region,
75–79 Mediocre: a drinkable wine that may have minor flaws
variety, vintage, price, score and more
50–74 Not recommended WineSpectator.com/Wine

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys
92 Blalock + Moore Sauvignon Blanc Marl-

borough 2021 $16 NEW ZEALAND Distinctive,
expressive and intense, with pomelo, yuzu and ruby grape-
fruit flavors that are fresh and vibrant, with details of min-
erality and green tea on the sleek, mouthwatering finish.
Drink now. 3,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—M.W.
91 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley Q 2021
$22 ARGENTINA Fresh, youthful and inviting, with
violet, espresso bean and blueberry aromas that join a
lively mouthful of orange peel. Features wild berry and
slate accents that linger nicely around suave tannins.
Drink now through 2032. 20,000 cases made, 17,000 cases
imported.—A.R.
Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2020 $24

92 ITALY Lightly toasty on the nose, less so on the
palate, with a pure beam of raspberry coulis fruit flavors
layered with a minerally underpinning of smoke and
graphite, plus rich notes of fig cake, wild sage, ground cof-
fee and red licorice. A fresh, classy version, with lightly
90 Chehalem Chardonnay Willamette Valley
Inox Unoaked 2021 $20 OREGON A dynamic
white, with spirited lemon and lime flavors that sail on
chalky tannins emerging to firm the finish. Nero d’Avola the crisp, vibrant and steely finish. Drink now. 9,100 cases
and Frappato. Drink now through 2027. 6,650 cases made, made.—T.F.
1,415 cases imported.—A.N.
CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EU REGULATION N. 1308/2013
Clos de los Siete Uco Valley 2019 $22

91 Cantina Andriano Pinot Grigio Alto Adige
2021 $22 ITALY Lithe and vibrant, this offers an
expressive range of ripe Asian pear, elderflower, apricot
90 ARGENTINA Roasted plum and cherry flavors show
a loamy and coffee bean underpinning, with suave tannins
and chalk flavors, without being weighty. The ripe fruit and touches of graphite, fresh tobacco and pepper on the
and mineral character linger on the lightly mouth- finish. Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab-
watering finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 3,300 cases ernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032.
imported.—A.N. 87,500 cases made, 21,000 cases imported.—A.R.

SPECTATOR SELECTIONS: Smart Buys / Best Values / New Releases: Argentina
94 Familia Zuccardi Aluvional Gualtallary 2019

$93 Slightly angular, but a lovely expression neverthe-
less, showing dried violet and a hint of eucalyptus up front,
with layers of raspberry and olallieberry. Tremendous acid-
ity adds tension and extends the flavors on to the lengthy
finish, which features fine tannins, an echo of the core
flavors and a hint of hibiscus. Drink now through 2034.
1,500 cases made, 350 cases imported.—A.R.
94 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley José

Zuccardi 2018 $65 This balances muscle with grace,
showing notes of molasses, ripe black cherry and black
plum that offer nice richness, while a thread of plumeria
91 Greg Norman Estates Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough 2021 $15 NEW ZEALAND Offers
picks up the trail midpalate. Reveals stony tannins, pep-
pery elements and notes of espresso and orange peel on
90 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2019

$21 CHILE A finely chiseled red, with elegance
and depth, showing forest floor, lavender and balsam notes
peach, melon and apricot flavors that are supple and fleshy,
with details of spice, white tea, lemon blossom and dried
ginger that add complexity and elegance. Reveals juicy
the lengthy finish. Drink now through 2034. 10,000 cases
made, 6,000 cases imported.—A.R.
around a lively mouthful of mineral-laced red currant and acidity and a long, expressive finish. Drink now. 3,000 93 Bodegas Caro Mendoza 2019 $72 An
plum. Ends with well-formed tannins and peppercorn cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—M.W. elegant style, with lovely notes of plumeria and cocoa nibs
details. Drink now through 2032. 7,000 cases made, 2,900 clinging to lush blackberry and cherry flavors, which are
cases imported.—A.R. buoyed by fresh acidity midpalate and fan out around fine
tannins. Ends with notes of slate and spice on the finish.
Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through
2032. 3,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.R.
93 Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2019 $100 A

bold, structured red, with aromas of smoke and graphite
leading to rich, concentrated tiers of blackberry, cassis and
plum. Beneath the muscle is ample fresh acidity, carrying
abundant violet and spice nuances toward the lengthy
finish, which reveals fine tannins. Malbec and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Drink now through 2034. 17,000 cases made,
5,950 cases imported.—A.R.
93 Matias Riccitelli Malbec Uco Valley Vino De

89 A to Z Wineworks Chardonnay Oregon
2021 $16 OREGON A delicious quaff, this white
90 Crowded House Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
borough 2021 $15 NEW ZEALAND Shows apri-
cot, passion fruit and pineapple flavors that are fresh,
Los Chacayes 2019 $57 Fresh and floral up front,
featuring notes of blackberry and violet, with underlying
is a fruit bomb of tropical fruit, pear and spice, finishing vibrant and sleek, with lemon verbena, orange blossom hints of eucalyptus and citrus peel paving the way for
on a supple yet crisp note. Drink now. 50,000 cases and peach cobbler on a juicy frame. Drink now. 22,490 a lively core of boysenberry and mountain herbs, which
made.—T.F. cases made, 10,080 cases imported.—M.W. fan out on the finish, ending with firm, mineral-laced
tannins. Drink now through 2032. 300 cases made, 80
Best Values
92 Luca Malbec Uco Valley Old Vine 2020 $35
Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide This has a slight balsam element joining a core of straw-
distribution. berry and black cherry, which has a svelte entry and adds
wood spice and rich chocolaty notes to the firming finish.
Drink now through 2032. 14,000 cases made, 7,000 cases
imported.—A.R.
92 Tapiz Malbec Uco Valley Black Tears San

Pablo Vineyard 2018 $50 Aromas of petrichor and
dried violet make for an alluring entry, while the palate
offers nice vibrancy to well-defined plum and red currant
flavors. Offers nuances of mineral and olive that fold in
around fine tannins and a lingering note of dark choco-
late. Drink now through 2034. 2,500 cases made, 1,100
90 Kono Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021
$14 NEW ZEALAND Sleek and mouthwatering, cases imported.—A.R.
92 Three Brooms Riesling Marlborough Single

Vineyard 2018 $15 NEW ZEALAND Intense and
fragrant, this distinctive white offers an appealing whiff
with salted lime, green apple and fresh pineapple flavors
that are intense and focused on a light frame, ending
92 Pascual Toso Malbec Mendoza Alta Barran-
cas Vineyards 2020 $50 A ripe, concentrated but
of lanolin up front, giving way to a laser beam of fresh, with a long, expressive finish. Drink now. 76,736 cases well-proportioned red, with rich tiers of berry and açaí
vibrant acidity, highlighting makrut lime leaf, lemon curd imported.—M.W.
joining violet and five-spice accents around mineral-
and ripe pear flavors. Ends with a touch of dried apricot tinged tannins. Reveals notes of dark chocolate and mo-
flavors on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 3,000
cases made, 3,000 cases imported.—M.W. New Wines From Around the World lasses. Drink now through 2032. 5,000 cases made, 1,800
ARGENTINA 91 Alta Vista Atemporal Albaneve Vineyard Uco

Valley 2019 $22 A suave blend, with a core of plum
Malbec and cherry flavors, plus peppercorn and loam accents.
This has lively mineral acidity keeping things going on
96 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza to the finish, where tannic grip checks in. Malbec, Cab-
Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae 2019 $140 See ernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through
Highly Recommended, page 87. 2032. 8,333 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.—A.R.

New Releases: Argentina / Chile
91 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Gualtallary Poligo- 87 Altocedro Torrontés Cafayate Valley Abras CHILE

nos 2021 $32 Abundantly fruity, with hibiscus-laced 2021 $17 Blends notes of geranium with juicy peach
berry flavors that are smooth, before a wave of mineral acid- and lemon, with nice acidity carrying the flavors, picking 95 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente
ity checks in and drives the flavors on to the finish, which up a hint of blanched almond. Drink now. 1,300 cases Alto Gravas del Maipo 2019 $65 A complex and
offers creamed plum and subtle herbs. Drink now through made, 910 cases imported.—A.R. perfumed red, with a layer of magnolia clinging to the
2032. 5,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—A.R. Alpine strawberry and red currant aromas and flavors.
87 Bodega Mendel Sémillon Uco Valley 2021
Gains savory richness midpalate, picking up details of
91 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley Q 2021 $25 Offers a slightly round mouthfeel, with a hint of
marinated Amfissa oli ve, white pepper and dark choco-
$22 See Smart Buys, page 89. perky acidity driving the Rainer cherry and lemon-lime
late along the way. Shows tremendous length, finishing
flavors. Reveals a dash of peppery spice on the finish.
90 Clos de los Siete Uco Valley 2019 $22 See Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—A.R.
with integrated tannins. Drink now through 2036. 500
Smart Buys, page 89. cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.R.
86 Casarena Torrontés Cafayate Valley Areyna
89 Zorzal Malbec Gualtallary Gran Terroir 2019 2021 $15 Simple and clean, with peppery and floral
$20 A sleek and mineral-driven red, offering generous nuances to lemon and apple flavors. Drink now. 500 cases
violet and wild berry aromas and flavors, with hints of made, 500 cases imported.—A.R.
leather and dried herbs underneath. Ends with a big wave
of mineral acidity. Drink now. 1,300 cases made, 800 cases 85 Bodega Aniello Pinot Noir Río Negro Blend
imported.—A.R. de Suelos Blanco de Pinot Noir 2021 $17 A simple
and juicy red, offering a subtle streak of dried herbs amid
88 Tapiz Malbec Uco Valley Alta Collection pear and blanched almond flavors. Drink now. 1,000 cases
San Pablo Vineyard 2020 $20 Features a layer of imported.—A.R.
vanilla clinging to a fresh grape, plum and cherry core,
with dusty, chalky tannins. Drink now. 20,000 cases made,
10,000 cases imported.—A.R.
86 Andeluna Malbec Uco Valley 1300 2021

$15 Compact in style, featuring blackberry and plum
flavors at the core, with mineral nuances folding in around
crisp tannins. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 3,000 cases
imported.—A.R.
86 Pascual Toso Barrancas Toso Mendoza

2020 $20 Simple and direct, with a loamy cast to the
dried berry core. Features cedar shadings on the finish.
Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 4,000 cases
made, 100 cases imported.—A.R.
ARGENTINA
Other
92 El Enemigo Sémillon Mendoza 2020 $28
Opens with bright notes of citrus rind, almond skin and
white peach before turning rich around a creamy midpal-
ate of ripe papaya and poached pear. Buttery pastry notes
fold in on the finish, with traces of saline. Drink now
through 2026. 400 cases made, 350 cases imported.—A.R.
91 Matias Riccitelli Sauvignon Blanc Uco Valley

Vino De La Carrera Finca María Bombal 2021 $57
Bright aromatics of grapefruit and orange blossom leap
from the glass and fold over onto the palate, joining grassy,
peppery notes and nervy acidity that persists on the full,
mouthwatering finish, where a nice saline element chimes
in. Drink now. 300 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.R.
89 Matias Riccitelli Sémillon Río Negro 2020

$57 This white offers elements of chive flowers and
dried chamomile that blend nicely with crisp flavors of
tangerine and white peach. Reveals hints of white pepper
on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 300 cases made,
100 cases imported.—A.R.
89 Zolo Torrontés Mendoza 2021 $11 A text-

book Torrontés, with bright floral lilac, rose petal and
lemon peel aromatics joining a perky profile of peach and
Meyer lemon. Shows a streak of minerality on the finish.
Drink now. 3,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.—A.R.
87 Alta Vista Torrontés Salta Estate 2020 $18

This white is subtly floral, with white peach and Rainer
cherry flavors, backed by good acidity and hints of saline ‘‘Even more than a tribute, this wine is a heritage, born of the encounter of
and spice on the finish. Drink now. 2,833 cases made, 120 Chilean terroirs, our family company’s know-how and a charismatic personality.’’
cases imported.—A.R. Philippe Sereys de Rothschild

New Releases: Chile / Italy
93 Concha y Toro Marques ITALY 91 Zisola Noto Doppiozeta 2018 $45 This

harmonious red is bright and stylish, with a dark and juicy
de Casa Concha Etiqueta Negra Sicily / Red mix of ripe blackberry, plus fragrant accents of milled pep-
Puente Alto 2019 $40 Shows
per, dried sage, ground coffee and iron. Silky tannins
tremendous elegance and grace, 93 Planeta Menfi Red Didacus 2017 $130 An
emerge on the minerally finish. Drink now through 2028.
with dried rose petal aromas as an elegant red, medium- to full-bodied and tightly meshed,
entry to crunchy red currant and 1,660 cases made, 300 cases imported.—A.N.
with a sense of restraint to the integration of sculpted tan-
raspberry flavors, which fan out
around fresh acidity and carry prom-
nins, revealing aromas and flavors of cassis, black tea leaf, 90 Donnafugata Sicilia Mille e Una Notte 2018
fig cake and iron. Long and fresh, expanding on the creamy $93 A fragrant red, with green olive, chopped rosemary,
inent notes of five-spice and white palate and showing good potential for the cellar. Caber- stone and orange peel notes accenting macerated black
pepper to the finish. Delivers fine net Franc. Best from 2023 through 2030. 370 cases made, raspberry and currant fruit flavors. Firm, sculpted tannins
tannins and nice length. Cabernet 28 cases imported.—A.N. serve as a lightly chewy frame for this fresh, full-bodied
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and
version. Nero d’Avola, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Best from
Petit Verdot. Drink now through 92 Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2020 $24
2024 through 2029. 183 cases imported.—A.N.
2032. 6,000 cases made, 1,000 cases ENRIQUE TIRADO
See Smart Buys, page 89.
imported.—A.R. Winemaker
92 Planeta Noto Santa Cecilia 2018 $46 Fresh,
90 Donnafugata Terre Siciliane Dolce & Gab-
bana Tancredi 2018 $50 An exuberant red, with
loamy earth and sun-dried cherry and raspberry fruit fla-
93 Viña Tarapacá Etiqueta Azul Gran Reserva vors ride the silky palate of this focused, medium- to full-
cedar, tobacco and spice notes exploding from the glass,
Maipo Valley 2020 $45 Elegant yet well-structured, bodied red. Fresh acidity and an iron-laced streak of
serving as a fragrant overtone for sweet and juicy notes of
with a wonderful layer of chrysanthemum on display from raspberry coulis and macerated blackberry fruit. Chalky
mineral provide focus and drive through the lightly chewy
start to finish, plus vibrant blackberry and plum flavors tannins firm the fresh, fragrant finish. This could use some
finish of herbs and spices. Nero d’Avola. Drink now
joined by subtle herb and spice details. Shows nice length short-term cellaring to bring everything together. Caber-
through 2028. 3,650 cases made, 190 cases imported.—A.N.
around firm, chalky tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, net Sauvignon, Nero d’Avola and Tannat. Best after 2024.
Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink now through 2032. 91 Benanti Etna Contrada Cavaliere 2019 $54 334 cases imported.—A.N.
3,500 cases made, 44 cases imported.—A.R. Delivers macerated cherry and strawberry fruit that’s sweet
and juicy, yet this light- to medium-bodied red is fresh
90 Feudo Montoni Sicilia Vrucara 2018 $55 An
93 Undurraga Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo and minerally overall, with a tarry underpinning. This
elegant red, with subtle juiciness to the flavors of baked
Valley Founder’s Collection 2019 $50 A lush reveals accents of dried thyme and spiced orange peel that
cherry and raspberry, warm spice, mocha and loamy earth.
and fruit-driven style, but with enough structure to keep Fresh and well-knit, with silky tannins and a lingering
linger on the chalky finish, where sculpted tannins
things in check, offering berry and plum flavors that carry finish. Nero d’Avola. Drink now through 2028.—A.N.
emerge. Best from 2024 through 2029. 555 cases made,
a hint of hibiscus. The midpalate is enlivened with a fresh,
minerally acidity that also gives length to the finish, where
200 cases imported.—A.N. 90 Firriato Sicilia Quater 4 Vitis Red 2018 $49
An elegant version, exuding fragrant dried rosemary and
firm tannins and notes of cardamom and petrichor check 91 Cusumano Sicilia Noà Vigneto Sotto Le Case
mineral, sun-dried black cherry and raspberry aromas and
in. Drink now through 2034. 2,500 cases made, 1,150 Tenuta Presti e Pegni 2017 $60 This fresh red leads
cases imported.—A.R. flavors, all well-meshed to plush tannins that offer defini-
with tar and black licorice aromas on the nose that tran-
tion and weight. Shows spice and graphite on the fresh
sition to the palate, accenting ripe black currant, plump
92 Viñedo Chadwick Puente Alto 2020 $350 cherry, cedar and black tea flavors. Dark in hue and creamy
finish. Nero d’Avola, Perricone, Frappato and Nerello
A suave red, this opens with a backdrop of mocha that Cappuccio. Drink now through 2027. 6,250 cases made,
in texture, with sleek tannins well-meshed to a full-bodied
sets the table for a polished core of creamed plum and 1,070 cases imported.—A.N.
frame. Nero d’Avola, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
chocolate-covered cherry, with green herb shadings fold-
ing in around fine tannins. Drink now through 2032. 834
Drink now through 2030. 1,700 cases made, 100 cases 90 Planeta Etna 2020 $32 A bright, light-bodied
imported.—A.N. red, with fragrant hints of tea rose, star anise and mandarin
cases made, 58 cases imported.—A.R.
orange peel accenting wild strawberry and ripe cherry fruit,
92 Viña Seña Aconcagua Valley 2020 $150
91 Cusumano Sicilia Sàgana Vigneto del
dried thyme and tar. Fine tannins firm the fresh finish.
Torrone Bianco Tenuta San Giacomo 2019 $50
Suave and polished, featuring flavors of floral currant and Drink now. 3,750 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N.
A deeply hued, purply Nero d’Avola, medium- to full-
plum preserves, with a mineral underpinning and fresh
acidity. Ends with loam and spice nuances and firm tan-
bodied, with flavors of macerated blackberry, iron, euca- 90 Planeta Frappato Vittoria 2021 $26 This
lyptus and violet. Fresh and focused, with creamy tannins light-bodied red is fresh and minerally, with light, fine-
nins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carmenère and Petit showing on the lightly spiced finish. Best from 2023
Verdot. Drink now through 2032. 8,334 cases made, 590 grained tannins enmeshed with raspberry, dried cherry
through 2029. 1,700 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N. fruit, Earl Grey tea leaf and a subtle streak of sweet smoke.
Drink now through 2025. 4,000 cases made, 250 cases
90 Primus Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo 2019 $21 91 Feudo Montoni Nero d’Avola Sicilia Lagnusa
imported.—A.N.
2020 $25 This red delivers wild strawberry, raspberry
See Smart Buys, page 90. and red licorice notes that are expressive and juicy, with 90 Tasca d’Almerita Sicilia Contea di Sclafani
89 Viña Tarapacá Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo elements of tea rose, thyme and tar and bright orange peel Tentuta Regaleali Riserva del Conte 2016 $200
Valley Gran Reserva 2020 $19 Tightly wound at acidity. Long and creamy on the palate, with fine, chalky An elegant, medium- to full-bodied red, with a pure beam
the moment, featuring abundant five-spice details that tannins. Drink now through 2030. Tasted twice, with con- of ripe black cherry gliding across the palate, while supple
surround a concentrated blackberry core, with floral notes sistent notes.—A.N. tannins lend definition and weight. Long and creamy,
and vibrant, minerally acidity driving the finish. Con- with accents of violet, eucalyptus, licorice twist, graphite
cludes with structured tannins and a toasty mocha note.
91 Planeta Menfi Maroccoli 2017 $43 Tightly and mineral creating a fragrant overtone that lingers on
meshed up front, with aromas and flavors of crème de cas-
Drink now through 2034. 44,000 cases made, 220 cases the juicy finish. Perricone and Nero d’Avola. Drink now
sis, ground coffee, loamy earth and olive tapenade slowly
imported.—A.R. through 2027. 583 cases made, 4 cases imported.—A.N.
expanding on the palate. Fresh and focused, a medium- to
87 Undurraga Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Val- full-bodied version, with creamy tannins and hints of dried 90 Terra Costantino Etna de Aetna 2020 $32
ley T.H. Alto Maipo 2020 $30 Opens silky but tilts mint and dark chocolate on the finish. Syrah. Best after Balanced and fresh, this light- to medium-bodied red fea-
toward savory, with olive and loam notes presiding over 2023. 2,120 cases made, 85 cases imported.—A.N. tures fine, taut tannins and citrusy acidity, which frame a
a ripe plum and cherry core. This has good acidity hold- well-spiced range of plump cherry, Mediterranean scrub,
ing everything together, but the tannins really clamp down
91 Tasca d’Almerita Cabernet Sauvignon Sicilia
tea rose and minerally iron and smoke. Nerello Mascalese
Tenuta Regaleali Vigna San Francesco 2018 $60
on the finish. Best after 2024. 3,300 cases made, 1,700 and Nerello Cappuccio. Drink now through 2025. 3,200
Savory tobacco and green olive aromas and flavors meet
cases imported.—A.R. cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N.
ripe black and red currant fruit on the palate of this fresh
85 Las Cartas Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Val- and structured red, which offers hints of minerally iron 90 Valle dell’Acate Nero d’Avola Sicilia Il Moro
ley The Crush 2020 $11 Bright and crisp, with friendly and graphite, espresso and balsamico that underscore the 2017 $30 This well-balanced red is medium-bodied
mineral-laced cherry flavors and herbal nuances that fold flavor range, with fine, chalky tannins firming the finish. and fresh, with light, fine tannins and a minerally over-
in around fine tannins. Drink now. 4,000 cases made, Drink now through 2028. 2,416 cases made, 25 cases tone of iron and smoke layered with flavors of black plum
4,000 cases imported.—A.R. imported.—A.N. and currant, Mediterranean herbs and ground white pep-
per. Drink now through 2025. 1,600 cases made, 550 cases
imported.—A.N.

New Releases: Italy
90 Zisola Noto 2020 $20 88 Firriato Nero d’Avola Sicilia Chiaramonte

This elegant red is expressive and 2019 $19 Shows smoke and toast notes on the nose,
well-knit, offering a fresh and juicy which underscore the palate’s flavors of black and red cur-
profile of crushed black cherry and rant, tea leaf, dried fig and bacon fat. A fresh, chewy red,
wild strawberry, dried sage and with a firm finish. Best after 2023. 40,000 cases made,
espresso. Medium-bodied, with 3,330 cases imported.—A.N.
creamy tannins and a subtle, miner-
ally streak of smoke and spice that
88 Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola Sicilia Tenuta
Regaleali Lamùri 2019 $20 Lively and balanced,
lingers on the finish. Drink now
this light- to medium-bodied red has hints of cured to-
through 2025. 8,330 cases made, FRANCESCO MAZZEI bacco and spice on the nose, which accent the crushed
1,500 cases imported.—A.N. Co-owner
black cherry and orange peel fruit on the palate. Drink
now. 10,833 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Zisola Terre Siciliane Effe Emme 2018 $45
Harmonious, this medium- to full-bodied version features 87 Poggio Anima Nero d’Avola Sicilia Asmo-
fragrant spice box and melted licorice accents, which en- deus 2019 $16 Lively and well-spiced, this light- to
rich crème de cassis, herbed black olive and iron notes. medium-bodied red shows herb-laced flavors of blackberry
Reveals light, fine tannins. Petit Verdot. Drink now and white peach. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 3,500
through 2025. 333 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N. cases imported.—A.N.
89 Feudo di Santa Tresa Cerasuolo di Vittoria 87 Casa Girelli Sicilia Lamura Red 2021 $10
2019 $24 Bright and balanced, with medicinal herbs, A lively, light-bodied red, with kirsch and licorice flavors
ground clove and peppercorn spice accenting black cur- accented by mineral and spice notes. Drink now. 3,000
rant, dried cherry and pomegranate puree fruit flavors. cases made, 1,160 cases imported.—A.N.
Light, fine tannins and a touch of fresh earth show on the
finish. Nero d’Avola and Frappato. Drink now through 87 Cusumano Terre Siciliane Benuara Tenuta
2025. 5,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—A.N. Presti e Pegni 2020 $25 A medium-bodied red, with
kirsch and crushed boysenberry flavors framed by light
89 Feudo di Santa Tresa Frappato Terre Sicil- tannins. Fresh and lightly juicy, with hints of violet and
iane Rina Russa 2021 $15 Light-bodied and juicy, spiced orange peel, ending with a moderate finish. Nero
loaded with aromas and flavors of wild strawberry, dried d’Avola and Syrah. Drink now. 16,500 cases made, 400
marjoram and thyme, red licorice and spiced orange. Fresh cases imported.—A.N.
and appealing. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 1,800 cases
imported.—A.N. 87 Feudo Montoni Perricone Sicilia Core 2020
$28 A dark, brambly, light- to medium-bodied red, with
89 Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola Sicilia Sallier fresh earth and a touch of smoky bacon fat serving as a
de la Tour 2020 $16 A medium-bodied red, with savory entry point, with fig cake and crème de cassis fla-
generous dark berry and cherry fruit flavors and hints of vors on the subtle, lightly chewy finish. Dark and juicy.
licorice, spice box and tar. Light on its feet and fresh, this Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 550 cases imported.—A.N.
well-balanced version features fine tannins. Drink now.
5,833 cases made, 1,750 cases imported.—A.N. 87 Nicosia Frappato Sicilia Sabbie di Sutta
2021 $20 A bright and juicy, light- to medium-bodied
89 Valle dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria red, with a note of strawberry preserves accented by dried
Classico 2019 $31 This juicy red delivers an aroma sage, toast and tar-tinged smoke. Drink now. 1,670 cases
of mandarin orange on the nose that mixes on the palate, made, 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
revealing a fragrant thread of Earl Grey tea leaf winding
through black raspberry coulis, milled pepper, loamy earth 87 Tasca d’Almerita Etna Tenuta Tascante
and licorice twist. Gains nice definition and focus, cour- Ghiaia Nera 2020 $22 This fresh, light-bodied red
tesy of light tannins and fresh acidity. Nero d’Avola and is pale garnet in hue, with savory hints of dried herbs and
Frappato. Drink now through 2025. 3,300 cases made, fresh earth layered with dried cherry and strawberry fruit.
1,100 cases imported.—A.N. Try this lightly chilled with grilled chicken. Drink now.
4,583 cases made, 3,250 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Colosi Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2021 $17 This
86 Stemmari Sicilia Cantodoro Riserva 2018
medium-bodied red is fragrant with fresh-chopped rose-
mary, bergamot oil and crushed pink peppercorn, which $16 A juicy sipper, round and light- to medium-bodied,
make for a zesty profile that accents dark, juicy flavors of with hints of pureed boysenberry, chocolate and herbs.
pureed boysenberry and dried fig. Lightly chewy finish. Nero d’Avola and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 4,000
Drink now. 25,000 cases made.—A.N. cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Cusumano Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2020 $19 86 Tasca d’Almerita Nero d’Avola Sicilia Rega-
Well-defined by light, taut tannins, this juicy red offers a leali 2020 $15 A light- to medium-bodied red, with
pleasing mix of ripe black cherry and blackberry fruit dried cherry, bitter plum fruit and cola flavors underscored
backed by anise, marjoram and fresh, loamy earth. Drink by smoke and dried herbs, backed by light, grainy tannins
now. 50,000 cases made, 20,000 cases imported.—A.N. on the finish. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 2,700 cases
imported.—A.N.
88 Donnafugata Sicilia Sedàra 2020 $19 A
lively, medium-bodied red, with a subtle fragrant overtone
of cured tobacco and smoke, plus flavors of crème de cas-
ITALY
sis, black olive and mocha. Easy-drinking and balanced. Sicily / Other
Drink now. 747 cases imported.—A.N.
94 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé
88 Feudo Arancio Nero d’Avola Sicilia Riserva 2019 $48/500ml This gorgeous sweetie is the color
2018 $24 A round, medium-bodied red, with dark of burnished gold and melts like cotton candy on the pal-
berry and cherry fruit flavors laced with anise, chocolate ate. Exudes aromas and flavors of baked apricot, ground
and herbs. Creamy, with just enough juicy orange peel cardamom, mandarin orange jam, clover honey and a rich
acidity for balance. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 500 hint of graham cracker. Vibrant acidity frames the long
cases imported.—A.N. and well-spiced, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through
2032. 425 cases imported.—A.N.

New Releases: Italy
93 Benanti Etna White Superiore Pietra Marina 90 Benanti Etna Rosato 2021 $26 Lightly tawny a zesty finish. Drink now. 7,000 cases made, 1,500 cases
2017 $128 Bright and harmonious, with racy acidity in color, this deeply hued rosé features flavors of dried mac- imported.—A.N.
and crackling saline and petrol notes wrapped in a finely erated cherry and strawberry fruit, minerally accents of 88 Cusumano Etna White Alta Mora 2020 $35
woven cloak of poached pear, lemon oil, chamomile and iron and smoke and a delicate overtone of cured tobacco. A creamy, light- to medium-bodied white, with flint and
Marcona almond flavors. Long and creamy, with a touch Fresh and balanced, with light, chalky tannins on the fin- graphite aromas on the nose underscoring subtle notes of
of honeycomb on the lightly mouthwatering finish. ish. Pair this with salumi or grilled chicken and fish. Drink yellow apple and pear, Meyer lemon zest, fresh herbs and
Drink now through 2032. 632 cases made, 200 cases now. 3,333 cases made, 400 cases imported.—A.N. smoke. Moderate finish. Drink now. 3,000 cases made,
imported.—A.N. 2,000 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicilia Masso 2021
93 Planeta Menfi White Didacus 2019 $122 $24 A lithe and balanced, light- to medium-bodied 88 Tenuta di Fessina Etna White Erse 2020 $25
An elegant Chardonnay, with creamy notes of baked pear, white, framing ripe Asian pear and nectarine fruit flavors A juicy white, balanced and light-bodied, with lively acid-
almond paste and mandarin orange accented by elderflower with lightly mouthwatering acidity and hints of elder- ity and flavors of ripe yellow plum, jasmine and ground
and fleur de sel. Finely meshed and just over medium-bod- flower, mineral and honeycomb. Drink now. 2,900 cases ginger. Reveals refreshing hints of fleur de sel and lemon
ied in weight, with real presence on the palate without made, 200 cases imported.—A.N. pith on the finish. Carricante, Catarratto and Minnella.
being weighty. Lightly mouthwatering acidity carries the Drink now. 833 cases made, 567 cases imported.—A.N.
rich flavor range on the lingering finish. Drink now 90 Feudo Montoni Inzolia Sicilia Fornelli 2021
through 2029. 583 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.N. $22 Lithe and juicy, this light- to medium-bodied white 88 Feudo Montoni Grillo Sicilia Timpa 2021 $25
is lightly chalky in texture, with a pleasing mix of ripe A bright, elegant white, with juicy acidity buoying a pleas-
92 Benanti Etna White Contrada Cavaliere pear and peach fruit, chamomile, mineral and white pep- ing range of pineapple, white peach and mandarin orange
2020 $65 This bright, well-cut white offers a core of per notes. Floral finish. Drink now. 2,300 cases made, 112 fruit flavors, plus hints of Thai basil and ground ginger.
nectarine and star fruit flavors but presents more as a sa- cases imported.—A.N. Drink now. 6,000 cases made, 2,450 cases imported.—A.N.
vory version, with minerally petrol and saline overtones
and notes of heather, oyster shell and fresh herbs. Long 90 Giovanni Rosso Etna White 2021 $45 A 88 Tasca d’Almerita Etna White Tenuta Tascante
and linear, with a lasting citrusy finish. Drink now through subtle white, round, creamy and backed by tangy blood Buonora 2021 $22 This mouthwatering white is
2030. 325 cases made.—A.N. orange peel acidity, this offers well-knit notes of nectar- creamy and light-bodied, with a zesty edge to the flavors
ine, lemon thyme, fleur de sel and melon that expand of yellow plum, Meyer lemon peel, melon rind, delicate
92 Benanti Etna White Superiore Contrada slowly on the palate. Drink now through 2025. 3,600 cases herbs and minerally petrol and stone. Drink now. 2,500
Rinazzo 2020 $56 An enticing nose of almond oil made, 200 cases imported.—A.N. cases made, 800 cases imported.—A.N.
and chamomile leads to flavors of white cherry, slivered
almond and blood orange pith on the palate of this ele- 90 Tasca d’Almerita Chardonnay Sicilia Tenuta 88 Tasca d’Almerita Grillo Sicilia Tenuta Rega-
gant white. Lithe and light- to medium-bodied, with sleek Regaleali Vigna San Francesco 2019 $60 This leali Cavallo delle Fate 2021 $20 This fresh and
acidity and a salty underpinning driving the creamy fin- bright, light- to medium-bodied white features a pretty accessible white offers juicy acidity, with pretty elderflower
ish. Drink now through 2030. 322 cases made.—A.N. waft of orchard blossoms on the nose, with a lively spine and anise aromatics layered with flavors of ripe green
of lemony acidity and well-meshed flavors of poached melon, fig and tangerine fruit. Drink now. 6,000 cases
92 Planeta Chardonnay Menfi 2020 $46 A apricot, wild strawberry, creamed almond and fleur de sel made, 500 cases imported.—A.N.
toasty version for fans of the style, with chopped hazelnut, on the creamy palate, lingering on the lightly juicy finish.
vanilla and biscuit aromas and flavors accenting a pretty Drink now through 2025. 2,416 cases made, 25 cases 87 Casa Girelli Sicilia Lamura White 2021 $10
range of glazed apricot and tangerine fruit, plus notes of imported.—A.N. This light-bodied white is creamy, with light and snappy
lime blossoms and spice. A medium-bodied, bright and citrus peel acidity for balance. Shows yellow apple and
focused white, ending with a lasting, well-meshed finish. 89 Benanti Etna White 2020 $32 A balanced, pear fruit, stone and floral notes. Catarratto. Drink now.
Drink now through 2027. 14,750 cases made, 2,500 cases light-bodied white, with dried apricot and white cherry 3,000 cases made, 828 cases imported.—A.N.
imported.—A.N. fruit flavors that are juicy and appealing. Round and
creamy, with accents of almond blossoms, honeycomb and 87 Donnafugata Grillo Sicilia SurSur 2021 $22
92 F. Tornatore Etna White Pietrarizzo 2021 sea salt. Subtle finish. Drink now. 8,733 cases made, 3,000 A fresh, easy-drinking and light-bodied white, with a mix
$60 A compact, light- to medium-bodied white, this cases imported.—A.N. of creamy pineapple, fresh tarragon, wet stone and Meyer
shows a firm spine of acidity while remaining creamy and lemon peel flavors. Drink now. 550 cases imported.—A.N.
supple in texture. Opens in the glass, with fruit flavors of 89 Emanuele Scammacca del Murgo Etna White
creamed apple, mandarin orange peel and kiwifruit, while 2021 $22 A snappy, light-bodied white, featuring an 87 Tasca d’Almerita Nerello Mascalese Terre
accents of elderflower and salted almond gain momentum almond skin texture along with notes of green fig, grated Siciliane Le Rose Regaleali 2021 $15 A creamy
to sing on the finish. Carricante and Catarratto. Best from ginger and yellow pear that are underscored by the tang rosé, with expressive aromas and flavors of dried apricot,
2023 through 2028. 1,583 cases made, 1,000 cases of minerally saline. Carricante and Catarratto. Drink now. strawberries and cream, dried herbs and blood orange zest
imported.—A.N. 6,000 cases made, 350 cases imported.—A.N. underscored by wet stone and spice. Drink now. 14,583
cases made, 2,244 cases imported.—A.N.
91 Donnafugata Etna White Sul Vulcano 2019 89 Tasca d’Almerita Etna Rosato Tenuta Tas-
$40 A round, creamy white, with pretty lime blossom cante Tefra 2021 $22 A lithe, lightly mouthwatering 87 Tasca d’Almerita Sicilia Regaleali White 2021
and graphite aromas wafting through flavors of ripe, juicy rosé, with hints of stone and saline underscoring a deli- $15 This floral white offers a delicate mesh of nectar-
creamed apple and pear, backed by rich hints of honey- cate mix of white cherry, wild strawberry, blood orange ine, blood orange granita and pickled ginger backed by
comb, vanilla and lemon-infused pastry cream. This is peel and fresh herbs. Drink now. 750 cases made, 200 cases soft citrus peel acidity. Shows stone and herbal notes on
backed by citrus peel acidity, which provides refreshing imported.—A.N. the finish. Insolia, Catarratto, Grecanico and Chardon-
snap on the finish. Drink now through 2027. 120 cases nay. Drink now. 91,666 cases made, 1,620 cases
imported.—A.N.
89 Terra Costantino Etna White de Aetna 2020 imported.—A.N.
$32 A round, creamy, light- to medium-bodied white,
91 F. Tornatore Etna White 2021 $35 Showing with honeyed notes of creamed pear, white blossoms and 86 Feudo Arancio Grillo Sicilia Superiore Costa
white blossoms and ripe fruit on the nose, this perfumed blanched almond enlivened by soft orange peel acidity. Rura 2021 $16 Round and juicy, this light- to medium-
white is salty and mouthwatering on the palate, with a Minerally finish. Carricante, Catarratto and Minnella. bodied white offers an easy-drinking mix of ripe apple and
touch of lemon zest enlivening the flavors of Asian Drink now. 2,100 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N. pear fruit, with floral and spice notes. Soft finish. Drink
pear, blanched almond, chamomile and lemon oil. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N.
now through 2027. 5,000 cases made, 3,300 cases
89 Zisola Sicilia White Azisa 2021 $15 This
imported.—A.N.
version is bright and light on its feet, with hints of min- 86 Feudo di Santa Tresa Catarratto-Pinot
erally saline and stone underscoring notes of pink grape- Grigio Terre Siciliane Purato 2021 $15 A juicy,
90 Al-Cantàra Etna White Luci Luci 2019 $30 fruit granita, cantaloupe melon, white blossoms and light-bodied white, with ripe pear and pineapple fruit,
A supple, light-bodied white, with a finely meshed range almond skin. Grillo. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 1,000 hints of Meyer lemon zest, peach skin and chalk. Easy-
of baked apricot and pear, fleur de sel and Meyer lemon cases imported.—A.N. drinking. Catarratto and Pinot Gris. Drink now. 1,000
zest, smoke and stone backed by lightly juicy acidity that cases made, 2,753 cases imported.—A.N.
enlivens the creamy finish. Drink now through 2025. 557
88 Poggio Anima Grillo Sicilia Uriel 2020 $16
A creamy, light-bodied white, with hints of lemon oil and
cases made, 54 cases imported.—A.N.
petrol on the nose wafting through flavors of melon rind,
pineapple, thyme and blanched almond. This is juicy, with

New Releases: Italy
86 Planeta Grillo Sicilia La Segreta 2021 $17 91 Cantina Terlano Pinot

A stony, light-bodied white, with a lively mix of kiwifruit, Bianco Alto Adige Terlano
blanched almond, star fruit and a hint of lemon thyme. Vorberg Riserva 2019 $50 A
Drink now. 2,200 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N. light- to medium-bodied white
that’s sleek and linear up front, but
ITALY opens on the creamy palate to show
the full, rich and expressive range
Other of glazed pineapple and tangerine
fruit, smoked hazelnut, vanilla and RUDI KOFLER
93 Cantina Terlano Alto Adige Terlaner I Primo pastry cream flavors. Focused and
Winemaker
Grande Cuvée 2019 $305 Fragrant with magnolia vibrant throughout, with a lasting, minerally finish. Drink
blossoms, vanilla and graphite, this poised white offers a now through 2029. 800 cases imported.—A.N.
rich range of yellow apple and pear, ground ginger, berga-
mot and mineral flavors tightly meshed to a well-defined
spine of acidity. Long and mouthwatering on the vibrant
90 Cantine Lunae Bosoni Vermentino Colli di
Luni-Liguria Grey Label 2021 $25 A ripe style, with
finish, this opens nicely in the glass but also exhibits good
hints of passion fruit and apricot underlined by fresh lemon
aging potential. Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvi-
and Mediterranean herbs. Brisk and tangy, leaving a
gnon Blanc. Best from 2023 through 2033. 250 cases made,
mouthwatering impression. Drink now. 25,000 cases made,
100 cases imported.—A.N.
2,000 cases imported.—B.S.
Luni-Liguria Black Label 2021 $40 This white is
Luni-Liguria Numero Chiuso 2018 $80 This white
intense, from the chamomile flower, lemon balm and sage
has some age, offering passion fruit, honey and lemon fla-
aromas to the passion fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes
vors, with a vein of chalk that leaves both a mineral ele-
long, with the richness and fruit offsetting the vibrant
ment and tactile feel on the finish. Drink now. 216 cases
acidity. Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made, 750
made, 75 cases imported.—B.S.
cases imported.—B.S.
92 Cantina Terlano Alto Adige Cuvée Terlaner

90 Cantina Nals Margreid Pinot Grigio Alto
Adige Hill 2021 $22 This bright white snaps with
2021 $32 This vivid white leads with lovely aromas
lively acidity, offering a well-knit range of flavors, with
and flavors of graphite lime blossoms and lemon zest,
notes of nectarine, clementine, white blossoms and sliv-
which accent juicy nectarine and pineapple fruit flavors.
ered almond, ending with a creamy finish. Drink now.
Crackles with racy acidity and a tangy streak of salinity,
7,000 cases made, 3,500 cases imported.—A.N.
and the tightly knit profile opens beautifully on the pal-
ate. Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. 90 San Michele All’Adige Pinot Grigio Trentino
Drink now through 2031. 15,000 cases made, 1,100 cases Mach 2021 $50 A creamy white, sleek and finely knit,
imported.—A.N. with subtle notes of graphite and stone underscoring a
lightly juicy range of creamed pear, pickled ginger, cham-
92 Cantina Terlano Alto Adige Terlano Nova
omile and blood orange pith. Lingering finish. Drink now.
Domus Riserva 2019 $73 Though broad and creamy
300 cases made, 100 cases imported.—A.N.
on the palate, this medium-bodied white remains bright
and graceful, thanks to sleek, mouthwatering acidity and 90 Cantina Terlano Pinot Bianco Alto Adige
an underlying hint of salty mineral. Features a subtle mesh Tradition 2021 $24 A bright, snappy white, featuring
of ripe yellow melon and plum fruit, grapefruit sorbet, generous ripe kiwifruit and melon, chalk and stone, with
chamomile and a touch of candied almond. Pinot Blanc, accents of tangerine peel, jasmine and ground ginger. Drink
Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Drink now through now. 14,000 cases made, 3,100 cases imported.—A.N.
2029. 2,500 cases made, 200 cases imported.—A.N.
90 Cantina Terlano Pinot Grigio Alto Adige
91 Cantina Andriano Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Tradition 2021 $26 A vibrant, light-bodied white,
2021 $22 See Smart Buys, page 89. featuring a zesty edge to flavors of crunchy yellow peach,
star fruit and blanched almond, with a subtle, minerally
91 Cantine Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni-Liguria
underpinning of stone and smoke. Drink now. 15,000 cases
White Cavagino 2021 $50 A fragrant Vermentino,
made, 8,500 cases imported.—A.N.
combining peach, apple, thyme and sage aromas and fla-
vors, with a thread of lemon and mineral woven through- 90 Tiefenbrunner Weissburgunder Alto Adige
out. This is open-knit and lingers nicely. Drink now. 750 Merus 2021 $22 A refreshing, light-bodied white,
cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S. with mouthwatering acidity and a zesty hint of pink grape-
fruit enlivening nectarine, grated ginger, pineapple and
91 Cantina Nals Margreid Pinot Bianco Alto
stone notes. Drink now. 2,500 cases made, 330 cases
Adige Sirmian 2020 $45 An elegant white, creamy
imported.—A.N.
and framed by orange peel acidity, this integrates a min-
erally layer of smoke and stone with a subtle, finely meshed 90 Elena Walch Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2021
range of ripe pear, chopped almond and star fruit flavors. $18 Bright, balanced and eminently sippable, this offers
Drink now through 2027. 3,500 cases made, 500 cases a creamy mix of kiwi fruit, pear, orchard blossoms and
imported.—A.N. ground ginger backed by blood orange-infused acidity.
Stony finish. Drink now. 6,700 cases made, 3,000 cases
91 Cantina Nals Margreid Pinot Grigio Alto
imported.—A.N.
Adige Punggl 2020 $34 A sleek, minerally white,
with pleasing juiciness to the flavors of Fuji apple and 89 Cantina Andriano Pinot Bianco Alto Adige
yellow plum, which are underscored by a subtle streak of Finado 2021 $22 A bright, light-bodied white, with
petrol and stone. Rich hints of lemon curd and fresh herbs juicy notes of pineapple and yellow peach accented by
drive the finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases orange zest, herbs and a stony underpinning. Drink now.
made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.N. 2,500 cases made, 528 cases imported.—A.N.

New Releases: Italy / New Zealand
89 La Ganghija Barbaresco 2018 $56 A tight, 87 Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio Trentino Castel 92 Ant Moore Pinot Noir Marlborough Signa-
sinewy red saturated with cherry candy, menthol and spice Firmian 2021 $20 A light, lip-smacking white, with ture Series 2019 $19 Expressive, with ripe cherry and
flavors. Moderately intense, with a firm line of tannins hints of ripe green apple, flowers and blood orange granita, plum notes, plus cola, fresh earth, sarsaparilla and spice.
on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2038. 2,600 cases followed by a moderate finish. Drink now. 15,000 cases Reveals black licorice and firm tannins at the core. Drink
made, 300 cases imported.—B.S. made, 500 cases imported.—A.N. now. 750 cases made, 100 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Cantine Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni-Liguria 86 St.-Pauls Weissburgunder Alto Adige 2021 92 Rippon Pinot Noir Central Otago Tinker’s
Auxo 2019 $25 This bright and fruity red delivers $16 A tangy, light-bodied white, with pear and apple Field Mature Vine Lake Wanaka 2019 $100 Sleek,
flavors of cherry, strawberry, bergamot and Mediterranean fruit underscored by stone, smoke and milled white pepper. polished and very lively, with juicy black cherry, black-
herbs. Though firm, this remains fresh and leaves a chalky Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.—A.N. berry and wild huckleberry flavors that lean into loam
feel on the finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Ciliegiolo. and fresh earth notes. This packs sage, green tea and dried
Drink now through 2030. 6,700 cases made, 250 cases 85 Cantine di Ora Pinot Grigio Valdadige Il rose petal accents on the finish, where the tannins firm
imported.—B.S. Casato 2021 $15 A straightforward, lightly tangy up. Drink now through 2033. 250 cases made, 14 cases
white, with hints of chive blossoms, flint and preserved imported.—M.W.
89 Fabio Oberto Nebbiolo Langhe 2020 $60 lemon playing off crunchy pear fruit flavors. Drink now.
A firmly structured red, this packs a core of cherry and 35,500 cases made, 30,000 cases imported.—A.N. 88 Big Sky Pinot Noir Martinborough Te Muna
strawberry fruit accented by notes of smoked meat and Road 2020 $36 Juicy, with strawberry-rhubarb cob-
iron. Compact, but think vitello tonnato to tease out the bler, fresh herbs, cedar and spicy tobacco set against firm
fruit. Drink now through 2025. 2,250 cases made, 1,000 NEW ZEALAND tannins and savory forest floor accents. Drink now. 1,000
cases imported.—B.S. Pinot Noir cases made, 100 cases imported.—M.W.
89 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Grigio Vigneti delle 96 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Central Otago Burn
Dolomiti 2021 $19 A juicy, light-bodied white, with Cottage Vineyard 2019 $65 See Highly Recom- NEW ZEALAND
a pretty overtone of floral and spice notes accenting nec- mended, page 87. Sauvignon Blanc
tarine, stone and blood orange flavors. Drink now. 29,000
cases made, 28,000 cases imported.—A.N. 96 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Central Otago 94 Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc Martinbor-
Moonlight Race 2020 $45 Aromatic, succulent, ough Te Muna 2021 $25 See Highly Recommended,
89 Elena Walch Pinot Bianco Alto Adige 2021 fresh and distinctive, with fleshy black cherry, blueberry page 87.
$18 This refreshing white is light-bodied and creamy, and marionberry flavors at the core—but that’s just the
with a minerally overtone of stone and flint finely woven beginning, as details of fresh clove cigarette, white truffle, 93 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
to flavors of ripe pear, dogwood blossoms and Meyer chai, dried lavender and a whiff of sandalwood emerge on Section 94 2019 $38 While fleshy and succulent,
lemon peel. Drink now. 2,100 cases made, 750 cases a delicate, juicy frame, with the tannins lingering in the this leads with crisp acidity. Offers notes of lanolin, litsea
imported.—A.N. background. Drink now through 2032. 1,800 cases made, oil, honeysuckle, lemon curd, lime sherbet and dried
350 cases imported.—M.W. chamomile, which are put into focus with mouthwatering
88 Gaierhof Pinot Grigio Trentino 2021 $14
acidity. Reveals mineral accents, reminiscent of white
Light-bodied and balanced, offering a fresh mix of Gala 95 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir Central Otago pepper, that linger on the long finish. Drink now. 100
apple, white blossoms and ground ginger, plus a subtle, Bannockburn Sauvage Vineyard 2019 $65 Shows cases imported.—M.W.
stony undertow. Drink now. 5,000 cases made, 1,000 cases wonderful density at the core, with muscular tannins lay-
imported.—A.N. ing the foundation for dried black cherry, spiced plum, date 92 Blalock + Moore Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
bread, chai tea, cardamom and laurel bay leaf. Expressive borough 2021 $16 See Smart Buys, page 89.
88 Cantine Lunae Bosoni Liguria di Levante
and aromatic, this is a good candidate for the cellar. Drink
Labianca 2021 $18 Supersalty, with apple, sage and 92 Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc Marl-
now through 2030. 45 cases imported.—M.W.
mineral flavors defined by vivid acidity. Invigorating. A borough 2021 $25 This juicy and succulent white
real palate cleanser for raw seafood or pesto. Vermentino 95 Escarpment Pinot Noir Martinborough Kupe opens on a fresh note of lemon verbena and lemongrass,
and Malvasia. Drink now. 7,500 cases made, 500 cases 2020 $120 See Highly Recommended, page 87. with wonderful purity to the flavors of pear, Honeycrisp
imported.—B.S. apple and lemon curd, backed by a lingering note of
93 Craggy Range Pinot Noir Martinborough fresh yuzu juice. Drink now. 59,500 cases made, 500 cases
88 Meran Pinot Grigio Alto Adige Festival 2021 2019 $29 See Smart Buys, page 88. imported.—M.W.
$19 A juicy white, with a zesty hint of candied pink
grapefruit peel enlivening the lightly plump and pleasing 93 Dog Point Pinot Noir Marlborough 2019 $42 92 Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
mix of blood orange sorbet, pineapple, pickled ginger and Shows salted caramel, maraschino cherry and wild black- 2021 $26 Intriguing and aromatic, this has a singed
Thai basil flavors. Drink now. 25,000 cases made, 4,000 berry and blueberry flavors that are plush and robust, with note to the up-front peach, honeysuckle and jasmine fla-
cases imported.—A.N. expressive notes of espresso, forest floor, sage, spice and vors, but the lush core is pure melon, apricot and lemon
tobacco lingering on a long, velvety frame. Drink now curd on a fleshy frame. Finishes with candied ginger, mar-
88 Cantina Nals Margreid Pinot Bianco Alto through 2030. 600 cases imported.—M.W. malade and spice, with fresh, vibrant acidity. Drink now.
Adige Berg 2021 $22 Crisp and minerally, this snappy
10,000 cases imported.—M.W.
white offers notes of apricot, star fruit, smoke and candied 93 Escarpment Pinot Noir Martinborough Te
ginger. Light-bodied and lively. Drink now. 5,000 cases Rehua 2020 $75 This robust version has settled into 92 Linden Sauvignon Blanc Hawke’s Bay Nuku
made, 850 cases imported.—A.N. its dense, muscular frame, featuring abundant red and blue 2021 $20 This white has laser-sharp focus, as well as
fruit flavors, along with toasted herbs, rose petal, tobacco equally intense acidity, showing yuzu flavors at the core,
88 St.-Pauls Weissburgunder Alto Adige and loamy earth. All of the details fit together wonder- with notes of fresh grated ginger, lemon verbena and
Plötzner 2021 $22 A lightly tangy, light-bodied white, fully, ending with strong-brewed Earl Grey notes on the orange blossom. There’s a thread of minerality and notes
with a touch of orange creamsicle accenting rich pear, finish. Drink now through 2030. 250 cases made, 75 cases of sea salt on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 5,000
stone and fresh herbs. Moderate finish. Drink now. 6,000 imported.—M.W. cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—M.W.
cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—A.N.
88 Peter Zemmer Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2021 93 Rippon Pinot Noir 92 Ant Moore Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
Central Otago Emma’s Block Signature Series 2021 $16 Juicy and refreshing, with
$17 A stony white, with lightly mouthwatering acidity
Mature Vine Lake Wanaka vibrant Fuji apple, passion fruit, lemon curd and crunchy
framing notes of crunchy pear and apple and dogwood
blossoms. A subtle thread of ground anise and white pep- 2019 $90 This version has won- sea salt, plus peach, green tea and fresh-grated ginger.
derful precision and purity to its Gains complexity on the long finish. Drink now. 2,000
per winds along the finish. Drink now. 7,500 cases made,
blood orange, maraschino cherry, cases made, 600 cases imported.—M.W.
4,000 cases imported.—A.N.
cranberry and matcha notes, with
87 Kurtatsch Pinot Grigio Alto Adige 2020 $19 fine-grained tannins and notes of 92 Tohu Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley 2021
green peppercorn and baking spices $16 Delivers a lovely savory note, with mineral and
A savory Pinot Grigio, with lemon oil, petrol and crushed
on the long, expressive finish. Drink toasted herb accents and a hint of lanolin to complement
pine accenting green apple and melon rind flavors set in
now through 2032. 250 cases made, the core of peach, citrus and melon. A refreshing thread
a tangy, light-bodied frame. Drink now. 7,000 cases made,
7 cases imported.—M.W.
NICK MILLS of acidity gains momentum on the finish. Drink now.
1,500 cases imported.—A.N. Owner & Winemaker
8,000 cases imported.—M.W.

New Releases: New Zealand
91 The Darling Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 86 Totara Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021

2021 $24 This has terrific texture, revealing a supple, $15 Presents peach, apricot and passion fruit flavors,
92
almost creamy edge to the vibrant, mouthwatering mix fresh citrus zest notes that are intense and juicy, with
of fresh ginger, apple, lemon curd and melon flavors, with abundant fresh, herbal accents. Drink now. 10,500 cases
a hint of peach blossom that lingers. Drink now. 2,000 made, 6,000 cases imported.—M.W.
cases made, 300 cases imported.—M.W.
91 Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marl- NEW ZEALAND

borough Reserve 2021 $25 Packs intense passion- Other White
fruit, lemon-lime notes and toasted herb accents that
mingle with mineral details, grapefruit zest and fresh- 92 Three Brooms Riesling Marlborough Single
grated ginger on the long finish. Drink now. 3,000 cases Vineyard 2018 $15 See Best Values, page 90.
made, 345 cases imported.—M.W.
91 Greg Norman Estates Sauvignon Blanc

91 Dog Point Chardonnay Marlborough 2019 poin t s
$38 An appealing whiff of matchstick smoke adds a
Marlborough 2021 $15 See Best Values, page 90. note of complexity, giving way to lemon meringue, apri-
cot pastry and salted butter flavors on a full but sleek and
91 Peregrine Sauvignon Blanc Central Otago
mouthwatering frame, with a savory hint of sesame seed.
2021 $31 This white offers crisp lemon, apple and
Drink now. 100 cases imported.—M.W.
pomelo flavors that mingle with notes of passion fruit and
guava, along with a touch of fennel. The sleek, refreshing 90 Astrolabe Chenin Blanc Marlborough Wrekin
finish reveals white pepper and lemongrass. Drink now. Vineyard 2020 $25 Dried chamomile, orange zest
6,200 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.—M.W. and candied ginger flavors are aromatic and distinct on a
medium frame, showing notes of nectarine and citrus,
91 Rippon Sauvignon Blanc Central Otago
backed by firm acidity. Drink now. 702 cases made, 600
Lake Wanaka 2021 $29 Packs mouthwatering pear,
cases imported.—M.W.
lime and green apple flavors that are precise and crisp,
with lemon blossoms, sea salt and makrut lime leaf aro- 89 Astrolabe Pinot Gris Marlborough 2021 $23
matics on a sleek, mouthwatering frame. Drink now. 610 Vibrant flavors of fresh apple, pear and lemon zest show
cases made, 21 cases imported.—M.W. hints of white flowers, with grace notes of fresh ginger on
the long finish. Drink now. 1,600 cases made, 880 cases
90 Amisfield Sauvignon Blanc Central Otago imported.—M.W.
2021 $20 Intense and tropical up front, with passion
fruit and dried pineapple flavors mingling with a smoky
whiff of litsea oil and lanolin. Shows harmony on the fin- 89 Escarpment Chardonnay
ish, with crunchy acidity and a touch of white pepper. Drink Martinborough 2020 $35 This
now. 2,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—M.W. has good intensity to the butter-
scotch-laced apple, pear and peach
90 Crowded House Sauvignon Blanc Marlbor- flavors at the core, backed by a
ough 2021 $15 See Best Values, page 90. supple frame, ending with orange
blossom notes on the juicy finish.
90 Kono Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 Drink now. 650 cases made, 100
$14 See Best Values, page 90. cases imported.—M.W.
LARRY MCKENNA
Winemaker
89 Frenzy Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021

$17 This white features fresh Key lime, orange sherbet, 88 No.1 Family Estate Brut Marlborough No.1
lime zest and peach flavors that are straightforward and Assemblé NV $33 Apple pastry, fresh ginger and
intense on a juicy frame. Drink now. 4,760 cases made, lemon zest flavors are vibrant on a frothy frame, with hints
4,760 cases imported.—M.W. of nutmeg emerging on the finish. Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir and Pinot Meunier. Drink now. 3,800 cases made,
88 Mohua Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 200 cases imported.—M.W.
$31 Offers intense white grapefruit, lime zest and lemon
notes that are amplified by mouthwatering acidity on a 88 Palliser Pinot Gris Martinborough 2021 $20
sleek, clean frame, with details of white pepper and herbs Peach, pear and Honeycrisp apple flavors are fresh and
emerging on the finish. Drink now. 3,100 cases made, 800 juicy on a smooth frame, with a touch of orange sherbet
cases imported.—M.W. on the finish. Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 475 cases
imported.—M.W.
88 Vidal Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Reserve
2021 $17 Succulent and juicy, showing nectarine, pear 87 Jules Taylor Grüner Veltliner Marlborough
and citrus flavors that have firm acidity, with details of 2021 $20 This fragrant white features lemon blossoms
spice and dried flowers. Drink now. 9,000 cases made, and white pepper on a mouthwatering frame, with a core
3,000 cases imported.—M.W. of lemon sherbet. Drink now. 500 cases made, 500 cases
imported.—M.W.
88 Wonderland Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
2021 $14 Shows green herbal accents and notes of 86 Jules Taylor Pinot Gris Marlborough 2021
fresh hops, which mingle with tangerine, melon and cit- $20 Firm, with a crunchy effect to the apple, citrus and
rus flavors. Harmonious, with refreshing acidity. Drink melon flavors, showing spice on the finish. Drink now.
now. 5,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—M.W. 6,000 cases made, 600 cases imported.—M.W.
88 Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 85 Oyster Bay Pinot Gris Hawkes Bay 2021 $15
2021 $17 Offers vibrant lemongrass, lime sherbet and This white is light and juicy, with a core of pear, Fuji apple
tangerine flavors, with fresh-grated ginger accents on a and ginger flavors that show a whiff of lemon blossoms.
sleek, juicy frame. Drink now. 280,000 cases made, 29,000 Drink now. 23,400 cases imported.—M.W.
cases imported.—M.W.
85 Te Pa Pinot Gris Marlborough 2021 $18
87 Lawson’s Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marl- Refreshing, with generous lime, pear and apple flavors on
borough 2021 $17 This has roasted and fresh herb a light, juicy frame. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 silver adovineyards.com
notes that are distinctive, adding complexity and aromat- cases imported.—M.W.
© silver ado vineyards, napa, ca
ics to a core of fresh citrus and ginger. Drink now. 12,000
cases made, 2,250 cases imported.—M.W.

New Releases: UNITED STATES / California
United States 96 Dalla Valle Maya Napa Valley 2019 $475 96 Promontory Napa Valley 2017 $950 Winey
Shows smoldering intensity, with a mix of mulberry, black- and engaging, with steeped plum and blackberry fruit
berry and black currant preserves that meld steadily with forming the core, while sleek, energetic apple wood and
CALIFORNIA cast iron notes. A late flurry of violet and açaí adds more
range, while the mineral aspect stays perfectly in its lane.
licorice snap accents fuel the finish. There’s a hint of
bramble along the edges, plus a long spine of dark earth
Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends Very long, with lovely flow. Cabernet Sauvignon and and iron-accented minerality buried within. Impressive
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2040. 800 cases for the vintage. Best from 2024 through 2038.—J.M.
99 Abreu Cappella St. Helena 2018 $650 made.—J.M.
Packed, but this also ripples with tension and energy, as 95 David Arthur Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
bitter plum, black currant, fig and blackberry fruit flavors 96 Dominus Estate Napa Valley 2019 $329 A Valley Old Vine 2019 $250 This is really packed,
collide with sweet bay leaf, savory, tobacco, loam and loaded wine, though reserved in style, with waves of dense with a core of dark currant, boysenberry and blackberry
licorice root notes. When the dust settles, this is an ex- cassis, plum reduction and blackberry preserves moving notes that will need time to unfurl. As the core unwinds,
pansive display of power and refinement, with everything through authoritatively, while sweet bay leaf, warm loam it should meld with the backdrop of black licorice, roasted
in proportion. And then a long, smoldering cast iron note and tobacco accents fill in the background. The long cast apple wood and cast iron, forming a long-lived, textbook
echoes, adding more cut and drive. Wow. Cabernet Sau- iron spine is deeply buried in the fruit, and this has supe- mountain Cabernet. There’s a lot in reserve here, so some
vignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2025 rior cut and drive. Built for serious cellaring, too. Caber- patience is required. Best from 2024 through 2038. 235
through 2045. 218 cases made.—J.M. net Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best cases made.—J.M.
from 2024 through 2040. 3,500 cases made.—J.M.
99 Harlan Estate Napa Valley 2018 $1,650 See 95 Baker & Hamilton Cabernet Sauvignon
Collectibles, page 87. 96 Favia Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 Oakville 2019 $125 This is packed with vivid boy-
$250 Pure and focused, with a beam of cassis, red cherry senberry, mulberry and black currant fruit that bursts forth
98 Abreu Madrona Ranch St. Helena 2018 $650 and damson plum driving through, flanked with violet with energy, while being held in check by graphite, anise
See Collectibles, page 87. and anise and supported by a sleek, iron-tinged spine. This and apple wood notes that lend good underlying tension.
has a great encore of fruit, with subtle mint and loam Features bramble and warm stone accents on the finish,
97 Colgin IX Estate Napa Valley 2019 $NA See
echoes at the very end. Best from 2023 through 2038. 359 as the fruit races through. Best from 2023 through 2038.
Collectibles, page 88.
cases made.—J.M. 789 cases made.—J.M.
97 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
96 Grace Family Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 95 Bond Melbury Napa Valley 2018 $825
2019 $195 See Highly Recommended, page 87.
2019 $350 Dark and winey, with a tightly coiled core Packed with dark blackberry and black currant preserves,
97 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount of red and black currant preserves mixed with licorice, this has nicely coiled energy, with sassafras and apple wood
Veeder 2018 $150 See Collectibles, page 88. alder, juniper and sweet bay leaf. Shows extra flickers of accents mixed with flashes of sweet bay leaf and tobacco.
mulberry and warm earth through the finish, where a bur- Subtle sanguine and black tea hints curl around the fin-
96 Bond Pluribus Napa Valley 2018 $825 This ied cast iron note peeks through. Some patience is needed ish. Best from 2023 through 2037.—J.M.
is well-packed, with crushed plum, steeped black currant here. Best from 2024 through 2040. 82 cases made.—J.M.
and warmed blackberry compote notes mixed together, 95 Cardinale Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
laced with bramble, licorice snap and apple wood. The 96 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val- 2019 $350 An inviting, fruit-driven style, with a gor-
fruit takes a really nice encore through the finish, while ley Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard 2019 $500 geous display of plum puree and blackberry confiture
a dark earth hint moves underneath. Best from 2023 Shows menthol, sweet bay leaf, violet and tobacco notes, pumping along, flanked with licorice and apple wood and
through 2038.—J.M. which set the stage for a core of winey cassis and crushed kept honest with a loamy accent through the finish. Pol-
plum fruit. Ample structure courses underneath, with a ished in feel overall, but that belies the serious grip. Drink
96 Bond Quella Napa Valley 2018 $825 Boasts tilt to loamy in feel through the deep, broad finish. Re- now through 2036. 5,100 cases made.—J.M.
black currant, fig and loganberry fruit flavors that are veals a late flash of iron, too. A serious version. Best from
tightly packed yet nicely expressive already, while the 2023 through 2040. 494 cases made.—J.M. 95 Carte Blanche The Mark Napa Valley 2019
backdrop of signed alder, juniper, bay leaf and warm loam $175 Really well-built, with lean muscle and great form,
adds extra dimension and length through the finish. Not 96 Keplinger Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville showing cassis, plum and blackberry fruit flavors nicely
shy on power, but everything is in proportion. Best from Oakville Ranch Vineyard 2019 $185 Ripe and melded with a hint of melted black licorice, roasted alder,
2024 through 2040.—J.M. focused, with a loamy accent running along the edges of violet and cool, dark earth. Reveals a terrific sense of pol-
the core of cassis and bitter plum. This has loads of sweet ish and refinement through the finish. Cabernet Sauvi-
96 Bond St. Eden Napa Valley 2018 $825 Leads bay leaf, charcoal and smoldering tobacco coursing un- gnon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from
with singed alder and warm earth, followed by a dense derneath the fruit, giving this range and a touch of old- 2023 through 2038. 250 cases made.—J.M.
core of steeped plum and black currant fruit. Reveals school character. More like a 2018 in feel, with the terroir
cedar and tobacco notes that assert themselves on the proudly on display. Best from 2024 through 2038. 175 95 Continuum Sage Mountain Vineyard Napa
finish, ending with a grippy edge. This has the youthfully cases made.—J.M. Valley 2019 $300 Expressive and vivid, with cassis,
backward and terroir-driven persona of the vintage in blueberry reduction and plum preserves mixed together,
spades. Built for cellaring and for fans of the muscular 96 Keplinger Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville RBK while licorice, warm fruitcake, sassafras and baker’s choco-
style. Best from 2024 through 2040.—J.M. Oakville Ranch Vineyard 2019 $200 Rich and late line the finish. A long, subtle cast iron note echoes as
broad, with waves of dark mulled plum, fig and black cur- the fruit lingers, making for an alluring contrast. Cabernet
96 Bond Vecina Napa Valley 2018 $825 Ripe rant fruit laced with singed juniper, cast iron and warm Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best
and focused, with a solidly built core of black currant and earth. The cast iron note really extends the finish, pulling from 2023 through 2038. 5,000 cases made.—J.M.
fig paste lined with tar and loam. Ends with an encore of the fruit along for the ride. This, with bottle age, is a win-
fruit swathed in bittersweet cocoa and tobacco, giving this ner. Best from 2024 through 2038. 80 cases made.—J.M. 95 DVO Napa Valley 2019 $300 This has a
a muscular feel, but there’s also a nicely buried iron note tightly layered core of cassis, mulberry and damson plum,
that adds cut. This begs for cellaring. Best from 2024 96 Keplinger Cabernet Sau- while notes of warm earth and a bright iron spine drive
through 2040.—J.M. vignon Oakville Vine Hill Ranch underneath. Features a floral flash in the background, as
Vineyard 2019 $225 A dark, the fruit and iron notes coalesce seamlessly on the finish.
96 Carte Blanche Cabernet Sauvignon Napa winey style, with waves of crushed Steady as a rock. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
Valley Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard 2019 black currant, steeped plum and Best from 2023 through 2036. 550 cases made.—J.M.
$175 See Highly Recommended, page 87. blackberry fruit flavors inlaid with
ample warm loam, sweet bay leaf
95 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019
96 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
and singed juniper. Everything knits
$155 Vivid and polished, with a beautiful beam of plum,
2019 $250 This is very tightly packed, with cassis, açaí berry and blackberry puree flavors that glisten as they
bitter plum and loganberry notes compressed along with well on the lengthy finish, while a cruise through, picking up light violet, apple wood and
anise, apple wood, warm humus and sweet tobacco. The violet echo lends a note of purity. warm earth accents along the way. A lovely tang of iron
earth note echoes nicely through the finish too. More like Best from 2024 through 2040. 200 HELEN KEPLINGER resonates through the finish. A wine of poise. Drink now
a 2018 in profile, with a youthfully backward persona. cases made.—J.M. Owner & Winemaker
through 2040. 431 cases made.—J.M.
Cellaring this will yield rewards. Best from 2024 through
2040. 1,200 cases made.—J.M.

New Releases: California
95 Herold Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018 95 Rivers-Marie Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 94 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val-
$195 Expressive, with a big burst of anise-laced plum Valley Herb Lamb Vineyard 2019 $150 Ripe, but ley Pritchard Hill 2019 $325 Seriously fruit-laden,
and blackberry fruit flavors carried by girders of graphite. relying on purity rather than flash, this delivers a very showing warmed cassis, plum sauce and blackberry com-
A loamy edge rumbles deeply too, while violet, cocoa and enticing beam of cassis and violet laced gently with lightly pote flavors that are layered seamlessly, with a plush struc-
sweet tobacco accents peek in on the finish. Tuck this singed apple wood, sweet bay leaf and licorice. The nicely ture underneath and a backdrop of singed vanilla, sweet
away in the cellar. Best from 2024 through 2038. 125 cases focused finish has a subtle underlying hint of iron. A tobacco, violet and mocha. A big wine—and it knows it.
made.—J.M. lengthy, poised wine. Drink now through 2038. 370 cases Best from 2023 through 2038. 3,800 cases made.—J.M.
made.—J.M.
95 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Coombs- 94 Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val-
ville Nathan Coombs Estate 2019 $350 This has 95 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Stags ley Social Currency 2019 $495/1.5L A plush, rich
a wisp of singed bay leaf weaving in and out of a core of Leap District WH Wappo Hill Vineyard 2019 $475 style, with waves of steeped blackberry, mulberry and black
steeped plum, açaí and fig fruit, while smoldering cast iron Showy, with waves of cassis, plum pâte de fruit and black- currant fruit rolling through, plus licorice root, singed al-
and warm earth tones fill in through the finish, giving this berry preserves backed by licorice snap, roasted apple wood der and smoldering tobacco accents. On the showy side,
a bit of an old-school bent. Best from 2023 through 2038. and cocoa. A nice, racy graphite spine provides necessary but stays grounded on the finish, with the fruit and earth
344 cases made.—J.M. support. A hedonist’s delight. Drink now through 2035. notes working together. Best from 2023 through 2038.
300 cases made.—J.M. 300 cases made.—J.M.
95 The Maiden Napa Valley 2018 $550 This
has a steady tug of warm earth throughout, along with 95 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon St. Hel- 94 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019
tobacco and tar accents, while black currant and fig fruit ena 2019 $245 Not shy, this throws a pretty lush and $100 Dark but fresh, with mulberry and black currant
stay tightly held at the core. Shows nice underlying en- gorgeous wave of warmed cassis and mulberry puree at fruit laced with apple wood, anise and tobacco. Shows
ergy, with rippling acidity working well with the grippy you, carried by very polished tannins as violet, red licorice nice energy from start to finish, with a late cast iron ac-
tannins. Just youthfully backward and needs time to settle and sweet tobacco hints fill in behind. Shows good energy cent giving this a solid feel through the finish. Best from
in fully. Best from 2024 through 2038.—J.M. through the finish, too, with a subtle mineral hint to keep 2023 through 2036. 2,589 cases made.—J.M.
everything honest. Lovely. Drink now through 2037. 4,184
95 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon cases made.—J.M. 94 Frias Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain
Oakville The Reserve To Kalon Vineyard 2019 $225 District Reserva 2019 $150 Well-packed, with a
Lush and loaded with warmed cassis, dark plum puree and 95 Turnbull Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville broad mix of loganberry, mulberry and boysenberry fruit
blackberry paste flavors, this cruises through slowly, with Reserve 2019 $95 Delivers a lovely burst of pure, un- compote notes, plus bramble, sassafras, anise and sweet
a dark loamy underpinning and a steady drumbeat of to- adulterated cassis and cherry puree, with hints of violet, bay leaf. Fresh acidity courses underneath the iron-edged
bacco, licorice root and roasted alder. Features an echoing singed vanilla, loam and anise. A subtly inlaid graphite finish, with the fruit easily keeping pace. Best from 2023
violet hint, indicating inner purity amid the fairly stoic spine carries the finish. Beautifully proportioned. Acces- through 2038. 200 cases made.—J.M.
display of dark fruit. The finish is riveted with graphite. sible now, but there’s no rush at all. Drink now through
One for the cellar. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,638 2036. 1,492 cases made.—J.M.
cases made.—J.M.
95 Ulysses Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018
95 Opus One Napa Valley 2019 $390 Elegantly $199 Dark and reserved in style, featuring a core of
styled, despite some serious heft, this offers a mix of allur- black currant and blackberry reduction wrapped in singed
ing mulberry, griotte and cassis notes bearing a gently alder and warm loam. This is tightly wound for now, with
mulled edge, while flashes of apple wood, sweet bay leaf the fruit held in check, but the underlying structure is
and red tea flicker along the edges. Very refined in feel, polished and there’s mineral-laced drive on the finish.
with seamless structure extending the finish so the fruit Requires patience. Best from 2024 through 2038. 1,300
can linger. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, cases made.—J.M.
Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Drink now through 2038.
27,800 cases made.—J.M. 94 Arrow & Branch Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
Valley Black Label 2019 $150 This has a racy, en-
95 Ovid Napa Valley 2019 $425 This is packed ergetic feel, with a mix of red and black currant fruit laced
with a range of steeped black currant, black cherry and with bramble, licorice snap, bay leaf and apple wood. Sol-
blackberry fruit flavors that work together to form a well- idly built, with a nice grippy finish that lets the fruit play
built core, while underlying alder, warm earth and sweet out, all pulling you back for more. Best from 2023 through
tobacco nuances emerge steadily through the finish. Pow- 2036. 220 cases made.—J.M.
erfully rendered and well-detailed. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best from 2024 94 David Arthur Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
through 2038. 980 cases made.—J.M. Valley Elevation 1147 2019 $275 Nicely packed,
with a violet note draped over a pretty dense core of boy-
95 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville senberry, mulberry and black currant fruit. This has a tarry
Backus 2019 $395 A dark, winey style, with a well frame, with licorice root and roasted alder accents curling
of red and black currant preserves laced liberally with bay throughout. Shows serious iron-laced drive through the
leaf and chaparral hints, all carried by a solid graphite edge. finish. Best from 2024 through 2038. 434 cases made.—J.M.
A nice dusting of loam on the finish gives this a solid bass
line, too. Not shy, but has the delineation to pull it off. Best 94 Beringer Cabernet Sau-
from 2023 through 2038. 1,500 cases made.—J.M. vignon Oakville Borrow Pit
Vineyard Single Vineyard 2019
95 Ridge Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains $150 Solid, even robust in feel,
2019 $245 This version features a densely packed core with a serious well of currant, fig
of vivid red and black currant and mulberry fruit, which and blackberry preserves fueled by
is encased for now in a mix of charcoal, cast iron, singed warm loam and dark tobacco. The
mesquite and apple wood. Shows terrific drive, though, finish is framed by roasted alder,
and everything is in proportion, with an echo of violet with a licorice root thread amid the
hinting at some inner purity. This will just need time to fruit. A big wine with the drive to
unwind. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and match. Best from 2023 through
Cabernet Franc. Best from 2024 through 2040. 5,700 cases 2038. 458 cases made.—J.M.
MARK BERINGER
Winemaker
made.—J.M.

94 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Reserve edge on the finish lends contrast to the fruit. Approach- 93 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val-
2019 $160 A fresh, overt style, with a lovely beam able now and for the hedonist crowd, but has the stuffing ley Signature 2019 $90 Packs an alluring, winey
of red currant, bing cherry and raspberry paste stitched to age nicely as well. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet feel, with a well of cassis and plum reduction laced with
together with flickers of anise, sassafras and bramble. De- Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2038. hints of cocoa, tobacco and singed cedar. Picks up a cast
livers a pretty violet echo on the fruity finish. Best from 2,020 cases made.—J.M. iron note on the finish, giving this just a bit of muscle as
2023 through 2037. 3,100 cases made.—J.M. 94 Viader Napa Valley 2019 $195 A dark, loamy the fruit plays out. Best from 2023 through 2036. 18,000
cases made.—J.M.
94 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Kath- style, with waves of dark currant and warmed fig fruit
ryn Hall 2019 $225 Rich and fleshy in feel, but with that rumble through, laced liberally with bittersweet co- 93 Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val-
a juicy edge for balance, this lets creamed plum and black- coa, dark tobacco and warm earth. The smoldering fin- ley 2019 $95 Rock-solid, with plum, boysenberry and
berry fruit spill forth, laced with mocha, singed alder, sweet ish has a nice old-school feel. Cabernet Sauvignon and blackberry puree stitched seamlessly with light anise, apple
tobacco and melted black licorice. For the hedonist crowd. Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2038. 785 cases wood and melted black licorice. Shows a suave, polished
Drink now through 2035. 6,300 cases made.—J.M. made.—J.M. feel through the finish. Darn tasty. Drink now through
94 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Moun- 94 Vine Cliff Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2036. 2,500 cases made.—J.M.
tain 2019 $500 Vivid, with açaí, boysenberry and Private Stock 16 Rows 2019 $185 This version is 93 Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val-
blackberry puree steaming through, buttressed by a promi- quite ripe yet reserved in style, with a lovely core of black ley Melanson Vineyard 2019 $175 Dark and fruit-
nent cast iron note that lends a racy, driven feel from start currant and plum reduction backed by ample tobacco, laden, but with juicy freshness, delivering plum and
to finish. A wine of fresh power. Best from 2023 through savory and iron accents. Shows a serious tug of earth blackberry compote notes carried by cast iron. Shows good
2036. 1,100 cases made.—J.M. through the finish, but has the fruit to keep pace. A drive through the finish, with tobacco and wood spice
densely packed, terroir-driven wine that will reward notes filtering through. Best from 2023 through 2035. 75
94 Matriarch Napa Valley 2018 $300 This cellaring. Best from 2024 through 2038. 200 cases cases made.—J.M.
expressive Cab leads with bramble, bay leaf and violet made.—J.M.
notes, with a core of dark currant and blackberry paste
94 Zeitgeist Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
93 Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll
following closely. A tarry, charcoal-edged underpinning District of Napa Valley Moulds Family Vineyard
on the finish gives this an old-school edge. Best from 2024 Sleeping Lady Vineyard 2019 $175 This is all fruit, 2019 $150 This has dark, ripe fruit backed by a pro-
through 2036.—J.M. all day, with plum puree, cassis and blackberry compote nounced floral lift, with a violet note pulling a core of
notes melding easily into a long, seamless flow. Features dark currant and blackberry preserves along. A nice
94 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon flashes of light anise, apple wood and licorice snap that plowed humus spine drives underneath on the finish. Best
Oakville The Estates 2019 $85 Throws off some add range through the finish, which has a nicely inlaid from 2023 through 2036. 450 cases made.—J.M.
pretty gorgeous aromas of violet, anise and sweet bay leaf, structure to keep everything honest, all while the fruit
with a core of ripe, streamlined boysenberry and black- easily stays on top. Drink now through 2035. 100 cases
berry pâte de fruit flavors following closely. The finish has made.—J.M.
93 Dominus Estate Napa-
nook Napa Valley 2019 $85
a racy graphite edge, while the fruit and aromas just spill
through. Approachable now. Drink now through 2034. 94 Zeitgeist Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Solidly built and very direct, with a
Oakville Station Vineyard 2019 $175 Rich and ripe, juicy, muscular core of cassis, plum
sporting a caressing feel to the wave of cassis, blackberry and blackberry flavors lined with
94 Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 2019 and plum fruit flavors that drive through, inlaid gently with singed alder, menthol and sweet bay
$330 This solidly built Cabernet offers a very direct subtle alder, bay leaf and iron accents, all set against a loamy leaf. Maintains juicy energy through
persona, with dark currant, warmed fig reduction and backdrop that asserts itself quietly. Feels like a very honest the toasty finish, with a late loamy
TOD MOSTERO
blackberry fruit paste flavors that are bolted together display of terroir, thanks to judicious toast on the finish. echo keeping things grounded. A Winemaker
with notes of licorice root and singed cedar. Features Best from 2023 through 2037. 110 cases made.—J.M. very well-proportioned wine.
an espresso crema hint on the finish, which keeps this Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.
on the dark, muscular side. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit 93 Anthem Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Drink now through 2034. 2,450 cases made.—J.M.
Verdot and Malbec. Best from 2023 through 2038.
Beckstoffer Las Piedras Vineyard 2018 $150 Ripe
17,000 cases made.—J.M. and nicely defined, with plum, cassis and red licorice notes 93 Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
that meld steadily as they move through, with cocoa- Holy Smoke Vineyard 2019 $125 This version has
94 Relic Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll District accented toast. Ends with a nice tug of loam. Drink now a lot going on, from the core of steeped plum, blackberry
of Napa Valley Moulds 2019 $150 An open, juicy through 2035. 270 cases made.—J.M. and black currant fruit to the liberal lacings of bay leaf,
and inviting version, with a range of savory, sassafras, red worn leather, tobacco and road tar, this sports serious
currant, plum and anise notes working together and allied 93 David Arthur Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Val-
muscle and tilts to the old-school style—especially with
to a cast iron spine. Reveals a warm loamy echo through ley Three Acre 2019 $165 A fresh, restrained style,
with warmed cassis and gently mulled cherry and black- the warm cast iron note that drives through the finish.
the finish. Very solid. Best from 2023 through 2037. 96 Best from 2024 through 2037. 400 cases made.—J.M.
cases made.—J.M. berry fruit flavors that combine nicely, picking up hints
of anise, humus and tobacco through the finish. Sneaky 93 Frias Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
94 Rivers-Marie Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville long. Best from 2023 through 2036. 640 cases made.—J.M. Vangone Vineyard 2019 $250 This is richly layered
Oakville Terraces 2019 $150 This red pumps out with warmed cassis, blackberry preserves and plum sauce
delicious plum sauce, melted licorice, currant compote 93 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Moun-
and laced liberally with graphite, bittersweet cocoa and
and sweet tobacco flavors, with ample yet rounded and tain Bancroft Ranch Vineyard Single Vineyard 2019
$150 A dark, winey version that moves slowly but licorice root. On the toasty, muscular side, but the fruit
polished structure underneath. Not shy with the toast, pumps through on the finish. Best from 2023 through
but the fruit drives through. This should have plenty of steadily, with plum, fig and boysenberry compote notes
that show polish but keep their definition. Delivers melted 2036. 100 cases made.—J.M.
fans for sure. Best from 2023 through 2036. 230 cases
made.—J.M. licorice snap, fruitcake and cocoa notes on the finish. 93 Frias Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain
Gains a nice finishing kick from the fruit. Approachable District SMD 2019 $85 A juicy, fruit-driven wine,
94 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon already. Drink now through 2034. 662 cases made.—J.M. with loads of expressive boysenberry and mulberry notes
Oakville Double Diamond 2019 $80 This version backed by a liberal mix of dried anise, apple wood and
packs in generous steeped plum, boysenberry and mul- 93 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Moun-
sweet bay leaf. This has the racy, grippy combo of moun-
berry flavors backed by a broad swath of roasted alder tain Steinhauer Ranch Vineyard Single Vineyard
2019 $150 Packs blackberry, mulberry and boysenberry tain fruit too, with nice length through the finish. Best
and bittersweet cocoa. Brimming with dense fruit, and from 2024 through 2036. 400 cases made.—J.M.
is squarely in the not-shy style. The long finish has a compote notes that swirl around, with hints of mulling
serious loamy tug. Best from 2023 through 2035. 10,000 spice, red licorice and apple wood flashing about. Nicely 93 Grape Culture Cabernet Sauvignon Atlas
cases made.—J.M. knit through the finish, with a tarry spine playing a sup- Peak Lifted 2019 $125 Fresh and vivid, with açaí
porting role as the fruit plays out. Drink now through berry and boysenberry pâte de fruit laced with graphite,
94 Spring Mountain Vineyard Elivette Napa 2035. 594 cases made.—J.M. anise and violet accents. A graphite edge adds extra cut
Valley 2019 $160 A lush, dark and winey style, with and drive on the finish, pulling the fruit along with it.
waves of mulled black currant and plum reduction dotted Best from 2023 through 2035. 100 cases made.—J.M.
with cocoa, sweet tobacco and singed alder. A nice loamy

93 Guarachi Cabernet Sauvignon Atlas Peak place. Rather forthright in profile. Best from 2023 through
Meadowrock Vineyard 2019 $110 This sports a nice 2036. 421 cases made.—J.M.
array of dark plum, warmed cassis and açaí berry flavors 93 Merryvale Profile Napa Valley 2019 $225
infused liberally with sweet bay leaf, sassafras and men- A lush, dark and slow-moving version, offering a steady
thol. Plush in feel but focused, with subtle licorice root wave of mulled black currant and steeped blackberry fla-
and alder notes on the finish. Approachable now for the vors, with roasted vanilla, loam and tobacco leaf notes.
forward fruit, but there’s no rush. Drink now through 2036. The muscular finish is a touch stolid now, but there’s
780 cases made.—J.M. depth. This is worth cellaring to let the Cab Franc
93 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain component unwind a bit more. Cabernet Sauvignon and
2019 $225 This well-packed version delivers a mix of Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2036. 823 cases
black currant and boysenberry fruit with good tension, made.—J.M.
while violet, melted licorice and blueberry sauce notes fill 93 Merus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019
in on the finish. This has a polished feel, but there’s a racy $225 Ripe, fresh and very direct, with a mix of red and
iron note buried here, too, for a nice sense of terroir. Best black currant preserves laced with violet, roasted alder
from 2023 through 2035. 1,090 cases made.—J.M. and licorice and backed by a subtle earthy note through LOOK NO FURTHER!
93 the finish. On the toasted side, but has ample fruit for bal-
Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Jack’s
ance. Best from 2023 through 2036. 725 cases made.—J.M.
Find it at one of these
Masterpiece 2019 $175 Dark, compact and slightly
muscular in feel now, this has a core of dense black cur-
outstanding wine shops where
rant, açaí and fig preserves laced liberally with singed
93 Peter Michael Les Pavots Knights Valley 2019
Wine Spectator is sold:
$225 Delivers a big blast of seductive fruit, including
cedar, bittersweet cocoa and warm earth. A flash of iron crushed blackberry, boysenberry and mulberry, along with
through the finish provides a nice counterpoint. Needs lively bramble, licorice and singed cedar notes before end-
to unwind in the cellar. Best from 2024 through 2037. FRANCOS WINE MERCHANTS
ing with a hint of dark earth to keep everything honest. New Canaan, CT 06840 • 203-966-9571
3,600 cases made.—J.M. A showy style, but very well done. Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now FRED’S AVALON LIQUOR STORE
93 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Mon-
through 2034. 3,088 cases made.—J.M. Avalon, NJ 08202 • 609-967-4121
tagna Vineyards 2019 $275 Ripe, well-built and
approachable in feel, though no rush, with a round struc- 93 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon GARY’S WINE & MARKETPLACE
ture carrying a core of black currant, blackberry and black Santa Cruz Mountains 2018 $110 Burly and tightly Saint Helena, CA 94574 • 707-531-7660
cherry preserves. Shows a solid licorice root spine, with a wound, with a racy, taut structure, this has a rock-solid
dusting of bittersweet cocoa on the finish. Best from 2023 GORDON’S FINE WINES & LIQUORS
core of damson plum, mulberry and loganberry fruit along Waltham, MA 02451 • 781-893-1900
through 2036. 450 cases made.—J.M. with mouthwatering savory, cassis bush and sage accents.
The long finish ripples with a note of warm gravel, giving GORHAM & NORTON WINE SHOP
93 Herold Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville
this a decidedly old-school feel. Will be a lot of fun to Great Barrington, MA 01230 • 413-528-0900
2018 $95 This has the packed fruit and terroir-driven
watch this age in the cellar. Best from 2024 through 2038.
profile of 2018, with dark açaí, plum and blackberry notes GRAPEVINE COTTAGE
laced with graphite and cast iron. Ends with a flurry of 1,341 cases made.—J.M.
Zionsville, IN 46077 • 317-733-1010
violet- and anise-laced fruit. Rock-solid. Best from 2023 93 Mount Veeder Winery Reserve Mount Veeder
through 2035. 630 cases made.—J.M. GREAT PACIFIC WINE & COFFEE
2018 $125 Dark, with bramble, licorice root, black Pendleton, OR 97801 • 541-276-1350
93 Herold Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley currant, fig and singed anise mixed together and carried
by warm humus and espresso crema. A touch extracted GREAT WINE & SPIRITS
Uproar 2019 $75 Very expressive, with alluring vio- Memphis, TN 38119 • 901-682-1333
let, warmed cassis, melted licorice and plum sauce aromas in feel through the finish, but will have fans for the ener-
and flavors rolling through in unison. A late loamy tug getic tumble of flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and GREEN’S BEVERAGE STORE
adds a grounding wire for the fruit. For the hedonist crowd. Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2037. 276 cases Atlanta, GA 30324 • 404-321-6232
Drink now through 2032. 1,040 cases made.—J.M. made.—J.M.
GRIZZLY LIQUOR
93 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Coombs- 93 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Missoula, MT 59802 • 406-549-7723
ville 2019 $120 Ripe and vivid, revealing a long beam 2019 $110 Offers nice brambly energy, with dark cur-
rant and plum fruit rolling through, pulling anise, apple HAPPY HARRYS BOTTLE SHOP
of açaí, blueberry and blackberry puree flavors that are Fargo, ND 58103 • 701-492-7480
polished in feel, with subtle cast iron and savory accents wood and sweet bay leaf notes along. Delivers a nice
through the finish. A light hand with the toast allows the grounding note of warm earth through the finish, with HARBOR WINE & SPIRITS
fruit to sing in this version. Drink now through 2035. the fruit keeping the upper hand. Drink now through Mound, MN 55364 • 952-472-0648
6,083 cases made.—J.M. 2038. 840 cases made.—J.M.
HARRISON WINE VAULT
93 La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Moun- 93 Portfolio Limited Edition Napa Valley 2017 Harrison, NY 10528 • 914-835-0125
tain 2019 $175 Ripe, but compact and restrained in $165 This is packed with vivid cassis, plum and boy-
senberry compote flavors that drive through nicely, flecked HARRY’S WINE & LIQUORS LLC
feel, with a core of raspberry, blackberry and mulberry fruit Fairfield, CT 06824 • 203-259-4692
keeping energy in reserve, while light sassafras, licorice with violet, anise and apple wood along the way. Shows
and apple wood notes add range through the finish. Drink nice energy throughout. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab- HILLS FINE WINE & SPIRITS
now through 2032. 6,825 cases made.—J.M. ernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2036.—J.M. Bloomfield Hills, MI 48304 • 248-540-8200
93 M by Michael Mondavi Red Napa Valley 2018 93 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford HOLIDAY MARKET
$200 A ripe, polished style, with currant, plum and District Collection 2019 $95 Juicy and youthfully Royal Oak, MI 48067 • 248-541-1414
blackberry preserves lined with mocha-accented toast, coiled up, with layers of plum, red currant and blackberry
fruit that will unwind in time, carried by iron and sweet HOLLAND LIQUORS
sweet tobacco and melted licorice. Stays reserved in feel MILFORD, NJ 08848 • 908-995-2604
overall and relies a bit on the toast, but there’s ample fruit bay leaf notes that add energy through the sleek finish.
in reserve. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot Best from 2023 through 2034. 567 cases made.—J.M. HOPEWELL WINE & SPIRITS
Hopewell, NY 12533 • 845-227-6661
and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2034. 400 cases
made.—J.M.
93 Round Pond Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Rutherford Louis Bovet Home Ranch Reserve
93 Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2019 $128 A nicely packed version, with currant, mul- For a complete list of outstanding
2019 $150 This has a nice savory edge, which lends a berry and blackberry notes forming a prodigious core, wineshops in your neighborhood visit:
while notes of bittersweet cocoa, tobacco and licorice root
cool menthol note to the core of dark currant and black-
score the finish. Best from 2023 through 2035. 2,680 cases winespectator.com/wineshops
berry preserves. A cold cast iron spine holds the finish in
made.—J.M.

Open up your Malbec, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Drink
93 Snowden Cabernet now through 2030. 1,900 cases made.—J.M.
Sauvignon Napa Valley Los
Ricos Vineyard 2019 $110 92 Crossbarn Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Lively, with generous sage brush, 2019 $60 A nice, extroverted wine, with a bright beam
menthol and bay leaf notes of raspberry and red currant pâte de fruit driving through,
— Newsletters.WineSpectator.com — wrapped around a core of crushed laced with energetic anise, bramble and apple wood notes
plum and blackberry preserves. along the way. Juicy energy carries through the finish.
A nice alder thread helps wrap Drink now through 2030. 12,133 cases made.—J.M.
NEW! It’s like a wine school in your up the finish. Very expressive.
inbox. Enjoy educational wine videos, Drink now through 2035. 112 92 Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon Howell
learn fun facts, brush up on your wine
lingo, and test your knowledge with cases made.—J.M.
DIANA SNOWDEN SEYSSES
Winemaker
Mountain Dust & Glory 2018 $175 This red has a
games and quizzes. brambly thread amid a core of steeped black currant and
bitter cherry notes, while licorice root and alder accents
93 Spring Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- run along the edges. Turns to cedar, sage and bay leaf
gnon Napa Valley 2019 $85 A nice muscular, toasty details on the finish. Best from 2023 through 2033. 300
style, with a core of black currant and blackberry paste cases made.—J.M.
scored with loam, licorice root and alder. This has heft
Get the scoop on how wine
intersects with film, TV, music, but also good cut and drive through the finish, with a late 92 Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
sports, politics and more,
delivered every other week.
echo of espresso crema. Best from 2023 through 2038. Valley Wild Boar Vineyard 2019 $125 Broad and
4,123 cases made.—J.M. slightly stolid in feel, with a core of dark plum, currant
and blackberry fruit laced heavily with roasted tobacco
93 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford and bittersweet cocoa. The finish is underscored by loam
2019 $325 A broad, loamy and frankly toasted style, and espresso cream accents. For fans of the style. Drink
with a steady rolling wave of warmed cassis and plum sauce now through 2032. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.
Love the restaurant world? This supported by freshly plowed earth, sweet tobacco and lico- 400 cases made.—J.M.
newsletter puts the spotlight on Wine rice root. A little toothy through the finish, with a plum
Spectator’s award-winning wine lists.
Plus, chef comings and goings, and skin note hinting at overextraction, but the fruit wins out 92 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon
Sommelier Talk. and fans of the muscular style will be pleased with this. Rutherford Sycamore Vineyard 2018 $175 This
Drink now through 2038. 2,300 cases made.—J.M. is reserved in style but has a nice well of loganberry and
mulberry fruit, with subtle apple wood, loam and licorice
93 Staglin INEO Napa Valley 2019 $NA root notes. A flash of sweet bay leaf flickers in the back-
This email alerts you when we’ve Ripe, fresh and vivid, packing a pure beam of cassis and ground, too. Polished feel overall. Drink now through
added new wines from your
favorite regions to our database. mulberry notes that pour through, with anise and violet 2032. 2,400 cases made.—J.M.
Just set up your preferences and accents along the way. A toasty, loamy shading to the fin-
we do the rest!
ish adds nice textural contrast. To be released November 92 Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville
2022. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit 2019 $80 This version tilts to exotic in profile, with
Verdot. Drink now through 2036. 240 cases made.—J.M. notes of mulberry and boysenberry compote that are lib-
erally scored with singed anise, fruitcake and Christmas
93 Sullivan Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford pudding notes. A tarry coating on the finish adds more
Get a great new value wine
recommendation in each weekly J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve 2019 $280 A oomph, while the overall polished feel makes this acces-
edition, plus recipes and tips on ripe, broad-shouldered wine, with a loamy wave moving sible now. For fans of the style. Drink now through 2034.
wine, food and travel.
underneath a core of dark currant and blackberry reduc- 4,850 cases made.—J.M.
tion. Delivers baker’s chocolate and tobacco as well, which
add more oomph to the bass line. Best from 2023 through 92 Ghost Block Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville
2036. 350 cases made.—J.M. Ghost Block Vineyard 2019 $125 This has a nice
smoldering edge to the core of steeped blackberry and
Learn how wine can contribute to a 93 SummitVine Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond black currant fruit, with dried anise, apple wood and sa-
healthy lifestyle, with our biweekly
reports on new research, plus
Mountain District SummitVine Ranch 2018 $87 vory details playing a prominent role as well. Reveals nice
wellness tips. This has a lush core of fig and blackberry fruit paste notes cut through the finish, with the fruit and savory edge
still packed in behind cast iron, sweet bay leaf and roasted showing steady persistence. Drink now through 2034. 950
apple wood, but this will stretch out in time. Offers nice cases made.—J.M.
energy throughout, with extra licorice root and tobacco
accents filling in. Best from 2024 through 2038. 196 cases 92 Guarachi G Atlas Peak 2019 $90 Delivers a
made.—J.M. big gush of plum sauce, blackberry preserves and melted
A new collectible wine pick in
each biweekly edition, plus black licorice, with a flicker of bramble tucked in to pro-
expert tips on collecting, auction 93 Viader Estate Limited Edition Napa Valley vide some energy. Lush and toasty through the finish, with
news and analysis. 2019 $150 A dark, rumbling wine, with a thunderclap the fruit holding the upper hand throughout. Cabernet
FOR THE TRADE of loam, warm paving stone and mulled black currant fruit Sauvignon and Malbec. Drink now through 2032. 450
at the core, laced with singed alder, savory and espresso cases made.—J.M.
crema threads. This has good energy to carry the burly
persona. For fans of the style. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, 92 Ink Grade Cabernet Sauvignon Howell
News, features and new product Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Best from 2023 through Mountain 2018 $195 This is a rock-solid Cabernet,
announcements for wine and 2035. 564 cases made.—J.M. with tarry-edged grip supporting a core of steeped black
spirits retailers
currant and blackberry reduction flavors, while singed
93 Vine Cliff Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019 mesquite and apple wood accents and a licorice root note
$125 A dark, intense wine, with waves of steeped plum, fill in on the finish. Best from 2024 through 2036. 2,033
fig and blackberry compote that rumble through, sup- cases made.—J.M.
Fun.
ported by graphite and warm loam accents. Offers a nice
coating of dark tobacco on the finish, too. Best from 2023 92 Lobo Cabernet Sauvignon Atlas Peak Wulff
Informative.
through 2036. 400 cases made.—J.M. Vineyards 2019 $105 This has a tight, racy beam of
dark cherry and raspberry coulis flavors laced with singed
92
Free.
Chappellet Las Piedras Napa Valley 2019 black tea and carried by a vibrant iron spine, which
$85 Very plush and inviting, with a wave of dark plum, reverberates through the finish. Best from 2023 through
açaí berry and blueberry infused with ganache and mocha. 2033. 289 cases made.—J.M.
Sign up for Wine Spectator’s e-newsletters at A violet accent in the background keeps this honest
Newsletters.WineSpectator.com enough. For the fruit-bomb crowd. Cabernet Sauvignon,

92 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Stags 92 Zeitgeist Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 91 Duckhorn The Discussion Napa Valley 2018
Leap District The Estates 2019 $90 Warmed cassis 2019 $85 This version is juicy and direct, featuring a $115 A lively red, with generous cassis bush and sassa-
and plum sauce glide through in this friendly, plush offer- hint of bramble amid a wave of blackberry and mulberry fras notes leading the way for friendly, polished flavors of
ing, with melted red licorice and sweet toast on the fin- fruit flavors. Singed cedar and dark earth notes frame the cassis, plum puree and cherry preserves, with cedar toast
ish. A late violet hint adds nice lift. Drink now through finish, as the fruit pushes through. Drink now through asserting itself on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-
2030. 680 cases made.—J.M. 2032. 230 cases made.—J.M. lot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through
2030. 3,000 cases made.—J.M.
92 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 92 Ziata Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville
2019 $65 Ripe and sleek, this delivers a gorgeous beam Meteor Vineyard 2019 $150 Solidly built, with a 91 Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
of unadulterated cassis, plum puree and blackberry coulis core of dark açaí and blackberry fruit compote lined with Valley Rutherford Hillside Reserve 2019 $150
lined with subtle toast, violet and apple wood accents. a cold cast iron note. Compact, with a frankly toasty edge Ripe and direct, with a core of cassis and plum reduction
Reveals a late flash of iron amid the fruit. A lovely, poised on the finish, though cellaring should loosen this up a wrapped in bittersweet cocoa, with hints of loam and to-
wine. Drink now through 2034. 15,334 cases made.—J.M. little. A textbook Coombsville profile. Best from 2023 bacco checking in on the fleshy finish. Drink now through
through 2034. 210 cases made.—J.M. 2030. 400 cases made.—J.M.
92 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Atlas Peak
District Collection 2019 $95 Ripe, with red and 91 Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander 91 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon
black currant fruit forming a solid core, but there’s lift and Valley Del Rio Vineyard 2018 $150 Showy, but will Rutherford Cabernet Bosché 2018 $175 Ripe
freshness too, with floral and rooibos tea notes in the certainly have fans for the big display of loganberry, boy- and expressive in feel, with a polished core featuring a
background. Nice acidity lends a racy edge, with an iron senberry and blackberry compote flavors that glide delicious set of sweet bay leaf, licorice and cassis flavors
note underscoring the dark fruit-filled, toasty finish. Drink through easily, with cocoa and sweet tobacco notes along that glide through. Ends with a lightly toasty, savory fin-
now through 2034. 148 cases made.—J.M. the way. Drink now through 2030. 450 cases made.—J.M. ish. Drink now through 2032. 2,600 cases made.—J.M.
92 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Howell 91 Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander 91 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2019
Mountain District Collection 2019 $108 Enticing, Valley Oliver Ranch Vineyard 2018 $150 A frankly $70 This version is juicy and fresh, with a good racy
with mulberry and loganberry fruit infused with red tea ripe and showy style, this pulls blackberry, black currant edge to the mix of raspberry and red currant coulis flavors,
and incense, this has a more open feel than most typical and black cherry reduction notes together, laces them backed by hints of anise, red tea and sassafras. Shows nice
Howell Mountain Cabs. Delivers a gush of licorice and with singed cocoa and savory hints, and marries every- energy and focus throughout. Drink now through 2030.
raspberry on the finish. This has some tarry grip to keep thing to a plush, broad feel through the finish. Drink now 24,000 cases made.—J.M.
it honest, but is a forward-styled version overall. Drink through 2030. 725 cases made.—J.M.
now through 2032. 137 cases made.—J.M. 91 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017
91 Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander $70 Reserved in style, with mint, tea and sandalwood
92 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Valley SJ Ranch Vineyard 2018 $150 Plush and aromas leading the way for a fine-grained core of damson
District Collection 2019 $108 This has a core of dark in profile, with creamed plum and blackberry preserves plum and red currant coulis. A subtle savory edge winds
cassis, plum and blackberry fruit flavors held in reserve cloaked in roasted vanilla and cocoa. Obvious in style, but through the finish, which lingers prettily. Drink now
for now, while hints of smoldering humus, roasted alder will certainly have fans for the mouthfeel and showy fruit. through 2034. 15,000 cases made.—J.M.
and tobacco form a complex frame. A bit burly and toasty Delivers sufficient savory-tinged cut on the finish for bal-
in style; cellaring should soften this somewhat. Best from ance. Drink now through 2030. 700 cases made.—J.M. 91 Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Lot
2023 through 2035. 250 cases made.—J.M. C-91 2017 $100 A perfumy style, with damson plum,
91 David Arthur Proprietary Red Napa Valley rooibos tea, sandalwood and mulled cherry aromas and
92 Raymond Cabernet Sauvignon Yountville 2019 $80 Juicy and direct, with a delicious mix of lo- flavors that glide through on a silky structure. Ends with
District Collection 2019 $88 Solidly built, with a ganberry and black currant fruit lined with singed anise light sanguine and savory threads. Drink now through
core of lightly steeped red and black currant fruit laced and sweet tobacco, plus a light tug of loam on the finish. 2032. 2,960 cases made.—J.M.
with apple wood, anise, sweet bay leaf and sassafras. Good Sneaky length. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet
juicy energy is deeply inlaid through the finish. Best from Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2030. 2,568 91 Miner Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
2023 through 2035. 370 cases made.—J.M. cases made.—J.M. Stagecoach Vineyard 2019 $95 This is frankly ripe,
with a broad swath of crushed plum, blackberry cobbler
92 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz 91 Buehler Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley and black currant preserves moving through, flanked on
Mountains Estate 2019 $70 Distinctive, with a burst 2019 $40 A juicy, fan-friendly wine, with a flash of both sides by a prominent roasted apple wood note. A
of singed vanilla and savory leading off, followed by dark mint giving way to brambly raspberry and boysenberry licorice snap note adds some energy to the finish. For fans
plum and blackberry puree notes that stream through. pâte de fruit notes, which are backed by a snap of red lico- of the headier style. Best from 2023 through 2033. 478
Shows singed mesquite and a sanguine note as this un- rice on the finish. A light sassafras note peeks in too. Drink cases made.—J.M.
folds. Sleek, tight-grained finish. Best from 2023 through now through 2030. 12,400 cases made.—J.M.
2033. 6,800 cases made.—J.M. 91 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
91 Buena Vista Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Valley 2019 $50 A solid, forthright Cabernet, with
92 Snowden Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Appellation Series 2019 $100 A sleek and reserved cedar and warm stone notes framing the core of gently
Brothers Vineyard 2019 $110 This shows a mix of version, with a gently polished edge to the core of dam- steeped black currant and blackberry fruit. Savory and
sanguine, mulled currant and plum fruit, red tea and to- son plum, cherry paste and raspberry coulis flavors, all loam accents flash through the finish. Drink now through
bacco leaf notes, all carried by a silky but persistent struc- laced with hints of sandalwood and red tea. This shows a 2030. 90,500 cases made.—J.M.
ture. The tobacco leaf note lingers the longest on the subtle mineral hint through the graceful finish. Drink now
finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit through 2032. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 400 91 Neyers Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Verdot. Drink now through 2032. Tasted twice, with con- cases made.—J.M. 2018 $65 Direct and frankly ripe, with boysenberry
sistent notes. 633 cases made.—J.M. and mulberry pâte de fruit notes bursting forth, laced with
91 Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon Napa singed apple wood and licorice notes along the way. Ends
92 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Atlas 2019 $175 A fresh, open style, with an with a juicy, bramble-tinged finish. Drink now through
Valley Lyndenhurst 2019 $90 A refined, reserved almost breezy edge to the mix of black cherry and black- 2028. 1,704 cases made.—J.M.
style, with a pretty core of cassis and black cherry fruit berry compote flavors. Delivers a dusting of singed vanilla
lined with black tea, singed sandalwood and warmed an- and sweet tobacco on the finish. Drink now through 2032. 91 Saint Helena Winery Cabernet Sauvignon
ise. Shows a subtle loamy tug through the finish. Best from 350 cases made.—J.M. Napa Valley Sympa 2018 $150 A textbook Napa
2023 through 2034. 3,361 cases made.—J.M. Cabernet, with a solid core of cassis and bitter plum fruit
91 Domaine Eden Cabernet Sauvignon Santa laced with singed cedar and alder notes, while tobacco
92 Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Cruz Mountains 2018 $45 Juicy and compact, with and loam fill in on the finish. Drink now through 2032.
Stags Leap District Audentia 2018 $200 A ripe, a core of dark currant and bramble backed by warm earth, 535 cases made.—J.M.
lush and forward style, with creamed plum and boysen- tobacco and licorice root. Shows a singed mesquite frame
berry notes gliding through, laced with sweet toast and around the finish, which has mouthwatering acidity
dark licorice. A subtle alder thread through the finish buried within. Best from 2023 through 2033. 3,266 cases
gives this range and contrast. Drink now through 2032. made.—J.M.
814 cases made.—J.M.

91 Silenus Cabernet Sauvignon Oak Knoll 90 Dry Creek The Mariner Meritage Sonoma 89 Beringer Cabernet Sauvignon Knights
District of Napa Valley 2018 $85 This delivers a County 2019 $50 This is nicely rendered, with an Valley Reserve 2019 $70 This solid version offers a
very direct and nicely scaled set of cassis, black cherry, emphasis on fresh, violet-laced blackberry and black direct core of red currant and blackberry fruit, featuring
singed cedar, loam and licorice root notes, with a flash of cherry compote flavors that are laced up on the finish vanilla and savory accents. Brambly energy carries the
bay leaf through the broad finish. Best from 2023 through with a lively licorice note. There’s a subtle cedar twinge lightly toasted finish. Drink now through 2026. 5,717
2030. 600 cases made.—J.M. at the very end. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, cases made.—J.M.
Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through
91 Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2027. 3,880 cases made.—J.M. 89 Buehler Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Oakville 2019 $70 A solid introduction to Oakville Estate 2019 $50 A fresh, direct style, with a beam of
Cab, with a core of dark currant and blackberry notes car- 90 Gamble Family Cabernet Sauvignon Napa cassis flanked with light violet and singed cedar nuances.
ried by loamy structure and backed by menthol, bay leaf Valley The Mill Keeper 2019 $80 Polished and di- Supple, charming finish. Drink now through 2028. 2,800
and singed alder through the finish. Drink now through rect, with a singed vanilla frame around a core of warmed cases made.—J.M.
2032. 7,781 cases made.—J.M. cassis and plum sauce flavors. Shows a subtle warm earth
accent at the very end. Drink now through 2029. 1,241 89 Buehler Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
91 Trois Noix Noisette Cuvée Napa Valley 2019 cases made.—J.M. Papa’s Knoll 2019 $65 A soft and forward style, with
$100 Juicy and dark but open in feel, with a big burst friendly plum and black cherry fruit notes lined with light
of blackberry and black cherry compote laced with cassis 90 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 loam and cedar accents. Stays supple through the finish.
bush and singed vanilla through a lightly toasty finish. $70 Leads with a light cedar edge, followed quickly by Drink now through 2027. 480 cases made.—J.M.
Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through relatively open-knit red currant and damson plum fruit
2030. 194 cases made.—J.M. flavors. Shows a light savory edge on the finish. Drink 89 Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
now through 2030. 41,000 cases made.—J.M. Valley Benchlands 2018 $75 This version delivers
90 Calcareous Lloyd of a mix of ripe mulberry and blackberry fruit, with mocha
Calcareous Paso Robles 2019 90 Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon and vanilla accents on the polished finish. The toast wins
$65 Sports some heady ripeness, Knights Valley Jackson Estate Trace Ridge 2018 out over the fruit in the end. Drink now through 2030.
with boysenberry and blackberry $75 A rich, forward style, offering a velvety wave of 1,927 cases made.—J.M.
compote notes leading the way. crushed plum and boysenberry preserves, with melted
This has good energy, though, with licorice and sweet toast gilding the finish. Shows more 89 Gamble Family The Mill Keeper Red Napa
weight than purity but will have fans. Drink now through Valley 2019 $60 This version has a fresh, ebullient
a bramble note and a zip of licorice and open feel, featuring a burst of blueberry, plum and
on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, DANA BROWN 2026. 255 cases made.—J.M.
Owner boysenberry flavors that stay rounded and easy through
Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot 90 Oakville East Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville the finish, where this picks up a late dollop of toasty
and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2027. 855 cases Exposure 2018 $100 Direct, with red and black cur- vanilla. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot,
made.—J.M. rant coulis flavors that stretch out over a graphite spine, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now through 2026. 1,090
ending with savory, menthol and loam accents. Best from cases made.—J.M.
90 Cornerstone Cabernet Sauvignon Ruther- 2023 through 2030. 943 cases made.—J.M.
ford 2018 $120 Open in feel, with red currant and 89 Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa
steeped plum notes laced with apple wood and ample sa- 90 Orin Swift Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Valley Heritage Collection 2019 $30 This version
vory accents. A toasty edge takes over on the finish. Drink Palermo 2020 $65 Fruit-driven, with a nice display delivers a steady wave of boysenberry and blackberry com-
now through 2030. 316 cases made.—J.M. of mulberry and blackberry fruit carried by light savory, pote flavors lined with vanilla and bramble accents. The
anise and sassafras notes. The finish is toasty, but the fruit toasted finish has a light sparkle of sassafras. Drink now
90 Crossbarn Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma pushes through nicely. Drink now through 2026. 28,000 through 2027. 4,848 cases made.—J.M.
County 2019 $45 Delivers a nicely energetic and en- cases made.—J.M.
ticing beam of crushed plum and boysenberry fruit that 89 Kendall-Jackson Winemaster’s Blend Alex-
sparkles with anise and sweet spice notes. This is toasty 90 Truchard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ander Valley 2019 $50 Offers a core of violet, cassis
on the finish, but the fruit wins out easily. Drink now Carneros 2019 $40 A friendly version, with a pol- and cherry pie flavors, followed by a frankly toasty finish
through 2026. 16,421 cases made.—J.M. ished core of cherry and raspberry fruit flavors laced with and a flicker of herbs at the very end. Cabernet Sauvi-
hints of black tea and tobacco. Ends with a dash of cedar gnon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2025.
and sanguine on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 411 cases made.—J.M.
89 Miner Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley
Emily’s 2019 $60 This red shows a singed vanilla
note, which drapes softly over a core of forward raspberry
and cherry compote flavors, with licorice root and cedar
filling in along the edges. Drink now through 2027. 6,178
cases made.—J.M.
89 Peter Paul Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

2019 $48 Cherry and red licorice flavors meld with a
loamy backdrop in this red, which offers notes of singed
cedar and vanilla on the finish. Drink now through 2027.
390 cases made.—J.M.
89 Picayune Padlock Napa Valley 2019 $37

This has a broad and rounded feel, with notes of plum
puree and black cherry preserves forming the core, while
licorice root and warm earth hints move underneath the
fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Drink now through 2027. 1,240 cases made.—J.M.
89 Provenance Cabernet Sauvignon Napa

Valley 2019 $55 Warm and lush in feel, with cassis
and melted licorice notes coated with singed vanilla and
cocoa accents, which hold sway on the broad finish. Drink
now through 2028. 3,025 cases made.—J.M.

89 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvi- 91 Ernest Chardonnay Sonoma Coast H. Klopp light sandalwood, cedar and savory hints. A nice under-
gnon Napa Valley Artemis 2019 $75 This is a ripe Vineyard Bohemian Series 2019 $85 Lip-smacking lying note of cold cast iron adds character. Cabernet Franc,
and polished crowd-pleaser, with a suave layer of toasty and intense, with mouthwatering acidity at the core, plus Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now
vanilla that melds easily into a core of cassis, cherry puree notes of clipped lemon verbena, citrus, Fuji apple and a through 2032. 231 cases made.—J.M.
and violet flavors. Drink now through 2027. 90,000 cases hint of savory saline on a sleek frame. Drink now. 125 92 Lagier Meredith Malbec Mount Veeder 2019
made.—J.M. cases made.—M.W. $45 Delivers wild blackberry, Earl Grey and sarsaparilla
88 Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek 91 Lynmar Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Susan- notes that are dense, dark and harmonious. Gains an aro-
Valley Block 007 Estate 2019 $30 This has cherry na’s Vineyard 2019 $63 Boasts Fuji apple, pear and matic grace note, thanks to a thread of fresh herbs, with
and blackberry jam notes that run through easily, with a lemon curd flavors that are intense, juicy and lip-smack- details of green cardamom and toasted cumin lingering
thread of singed vanilla and savory accents for contrast. ing, with notes of peach pastry, spice and salted, toasted on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2030.
Drink now through 2023. 575 cases made.—J.M. hazelnut on the finish. Drink now. 447 cases made.—M.W. 56 cases made.—M.W.
88 Phoenix Wine Company Cabernet Sauvi- 90 Saxon Brown Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 91 DuMOL Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
gnon Rutherford de Négoce OG N. 100 2019 $29 Durell Vineyard 2018 $78 This offers toffee, peach Highland Divide 2020 $75 This lively Pinot offers
Delivers a core of mulled raspberry and boysenberry pâte pastry and vanilla bean notes that are rich and robust, a burst of raspberry and pomegranate notes that are lined
de fruit, laced with dried anise and singed cedar through with plentiful spice and toasted hazelnut accents. Ripe with red tea and savory accents, ending with a nice racy
the slightly taut finish. Drink now through 2027.—J.M. and round, with a touch of butter on the finish. Drink edge to the finish. Drink now through 2027. 1,470 cases
now. 210 cases made.—M.W. made.—J.M.
88 Roth Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley
91 Ehlers Estate Petit Verdot St. Helena 2019
2019 $30 Singed vanilla and mocha notes lead off in 89 Red Car Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2019
$77 Well-spiced, with allspice, nutmeg and a hint of
this version, followed by a core of gently mulled cherry $38 Fresh and juicy, with plenty of ginger accents to
and currant fruit. Ends with a streak of tobacco on the the core of Honeycrisp apple, citrus and tangerine accents, wintergreen to complement a dense core of huckleberry,
slightly rustic finish. Drink now through 2024. 35,000 finishing with fresh, aromatic notes of lemon zest. Drink black cherry and date nut bread. Finds plenty of harmony
cases made.—J.M. now. 600 cases made.—M.W. on the long, expressive and velvety finish. Drink now. 121
cases made.—M.W.
87 Dry Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek
91 Hudson Vineyards Old Master Napa Valley
Valley 2019 $32 Direct, with plum jam and red lico- CALIFORNIA Carneros 2019 $150 A nice, restrained style, with a
rice notes backed by singed vanilla on the open-knit Other Red layer of menthol, savory and tobacco leaf notes buried
finish. Drink now. 23,000 cases made.—J.M.
underneath a mix of gently mulled cherry and currant
96 Favia La Magdalena Napa Valley 2019 $250 fruit. Delivers a tug of loam, sage and cedar on the finish.
CALIFORNIA A rock-solid offering, with a mix of licorice root, black-
berry paste, sweet tobacco and black currant preserves all
For fans of cool climate Cabs. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and
Chardonnay Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2030. 125 cases
held together nicely with a sleek iron spine. This is a lean- made.—J.M.
muscle version of the power style, with nice tension and
93 Red Car Chardonnay energy to complement the heft of the fruit. Really gor- 90 Copaín Cabernet Franc North Coast Taylor
Sonoma Coast Zephyr Farms
Vineyard 2019 $58 Elegant and
geous. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best Peak 2019 $90 Pretty, with a high-pitched cherry and
from 2023 through 2036. 446 cases made.—J.M. damson plum fruit profile laced with sanguine and red tea
succulent, with salted butterscotch
notes, which linger on the understated finish. Drink now
mingling with supple ripe peach and 95 Favia Cerro Sur Napa Valley 2019 $250 through 2027. 200 cases made.—J.M.
pineapple notes that are intense and Superjuicy and vivid, with lots of up-front violet, cassis
vivid. Features fresh acidity and a
long, expressive finish, where spice
and plum pâte de fruit notes backed by licorice and sweet 90 Copaín Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast SeaLift
spice. The finish is toasty, but the fruit wins out easily, 2019 $75 A fresh and racy-styled Pinot, with a savory
and a touch of candied ginger linger. with a flash of sweet bay leaf adding nice range. Cabernet spine amid raspberry and red currant coulis flavors. Pres-
Drink now through 2027. 200 cases TANNER SCHEER Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2036. ents pretty red tea and floral accents on the finish. Drink
made.—M.W. Winemaker 250 cases made.—J.M. now through 2026. 325 cases made.—J.M.
93 Three Sticks Chardonnay Sonoma Coast

94 Arrow & Branch Right Bank Blend Napa 90 Duckhorn Cabernet Franc Napa Valley 2019
Valley 2019 $150 A suave and alluring wine, with a $80 A plump and forward style, with a friendly core of
Gap’s Crown Vineyard 2020 $70 Stunning, with
ripe and rich yet restrained profile, offering creamed plum blackberry and black cherry compote liberally laced with
pure fruit flavors at the core, including juicy pineapple,
and gently mulled cherry fruit laced with subtle sweet sweet tobacco and a hint of loam. Shows nice freshness
mango and orange sherbet. Features dried ginger and spice
tobacco, warm humus and alder smoke. Reveals iron and through the finish. Drink now through 2028. 685 cases
accents, with a touch of honeysuckle on the long, expres-
savory accents on the finish. Sneaky long. Cabernet Franc, made.—J.M.
sive finish. Drink now through 2027. 395 cases made.—M.W.
Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through
93 Three Sticks Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2035. 260 cases made.—J.M. 90 DuMOL Pinot Noir Rus-
Origin Durell Vineyard 2020 $65 Intense, vivid sian River Valley Wester Reach
and bright, with a core of tangerine, apple and melon fla-
94 Ovid Hexameter Napa Valley 2019 $425
2020 $75 This Pinot delivers a
Delivers dark plum and blackberry fruit with a caressing
vors that mingle with mineral, dried herbs and sea salt on core of gently mulled blood orange
edge, despite showing some depth and weight, while smol-
a taut, juicy frame. Drink now. 390 cases made.—M.W. and pomegranate, with anise and
dering cast iron, tobacco and roasted alder hints peek
singed vanilla on the finish. Fea-
92 Black Kite Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Gap’s through and emerge steadily through the finish. Shows
tures a light echo of wood spice too.
Crown Vineyard 2019 $65 Strikes a lovely balance the muscular shoulders of Cab Franc throughout. Caber-
A juicy, open and crowd-pleasing
between rich butterscotch and spicy notes, with fresh net Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from
style. Drink now through 2025. ANDY SMITH
apple, melon and citrus flavors. The texture is supple and 2023 through 2036. 640 cases made.—J.M.
3,814 cases made.—J.M. Co-owner & Winemaker
smooth, and the finish is long and expressive. Drink now.
480 cases made.—M.W.
93 Lagier Meredith Mondeuse Mount Veeder
2019 $45 Concentrated and aromatic, with fresh- 90 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
92 Small Vines Chardonnay Sonoma Coast TBH cracked black pepper, dried sage, white pepper and gen- Hallberg Vineyard 2018 $55 A stylish version, with
Vineyard 2019 $72 Boasts butterscotch, peach and erous malty Assam black tea, plus notes of dried flowers red tea, blood orange and mulled damson plum. Shows a
ripe melon flavors that are polished, smooth and seam- and a core of huckleberry, blueberry and wild blackberry. reserved feel through the savory finish. Drink now through
less. Fresh herb, ginger, sea salt and orange blossom notes The tannins are dense and have an appealing chewy den- 2026. 1,079 cases made.—J.M.
are aromatic and appealing on the long, expressive finish. sity. Drink now through 2030. 102 cases made.—M.W.
Drink now through 2026. 254 cases made.—M.W.
92 David Arthur Le Boucher Napa Valley 2019
$175 A sleek and tightly focused style, with friendly
cherry and red currant coulis flavors that are lined with

New Releases: California / Oregon
90 Pleiades XXVIII Old Vines California NV $25 93 Arterberry Maresh Chardonnay Dundee Hills 94 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
This has sweet maraschino cherry flavors that mingle Maresh 2019 $69 Brisk and floral, with lemon blos- Lingua Franca Estate 2019 $55 This red is dynamic
effortlessly with aromatic clove, cardamom, bittersweet som, lime and hints of briny minerality gliding on an agile yet nuanced, marrying elegance with a steely density,
chocolate and a core of blackberry puree, with a touch of finish. Drink now. 120 cases made.—T.F. showing expressive violet, raspberry, stony mineral and
sage and bay leaf lingering on the seamless finish. Sangio- spice box accents that pick up speed and tension toward
vese, Pinot Noir, Viognier, Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. 93 Tan Fruit Chardonnay Dundee Hills Maresh well-framed tannins. Drink now through 2030. 535 cases
Drink now. 5,657 cases made.—M.W. Vineyard 2019 $63 Sleek and light-footed, offering made.—T.F.
vibrant pear and Meyer lemon flavors accented by spice
90 Poe Cinsaut Lodi Mouthy Head To Toe and briny saline. Finishes on a clean, brisk note. Drink 94 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Bechthold Vineyard Whole Cluster 2021 $26 This now. 222 cases made.—T.F. The Plow 2019 $60 A wine with presence and detail,
packs a juicy, supple mouthful of fresh strawberry, rasp- boasting an ethereal structure that glides along with notes
berry and maraschino cherry flavors. The expressive fin- 93 Ken Wright Chardonnay Yamhill-Carlton of raspberry, crushed stone, tea leaf and dusky spice. Builds
ish features green tea and baking spice accents bearing Savoya Vineyard 2017 $55 Polished and precise, tension and richness as this finishes with refined tannins.
good intensity. Drink now. 300 cases made.—M.W. with multilayered apricot, nectarine and spice flavors that Drink now through 2030. 880 cases made.—T.F.
build richness on a plush, lingering finish. Drink now. 177
90 Small Vines Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2019 cases made.—T.F. 94 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir
$55 This red offers mulled blood orange and pomegran- Dundee Hills Nysa 2019 $90
ate flavors that have a seductive edge, with dried anise 92 Nicolas-Jay Chardonnay Willamette Valley
Precise and seductive, this Pinot
and red tea filling in through the finish. A late savory Affinités 2020 $50 Handsomely built, showing deep
and multilayered flavors of tropical fruit and orange peel unfurls slowly to floral raspberry and
echo adds length. Drink now through 2026. 803 cases cherry, black tea and spicy vanilla
made.—J.M. accented by dusky spice and hints of mineral. Drink now.
359 cases made.—T.F. flavors that build richness and
89 Copaín Trousseau Russian River Valley structure on the polished finish.
Copain Estate 2020 $42 This offers flavors of straw- 91 Siduri Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2020 Drink now through 2030. 195 cases JAY BOBURG &
JEAN-NICOLAS MEO
berry, raspberry and blood orange on a taut frame, with $35 Generous and plump with fruit, offering rich tropi- made.—T.F. Owners
fresh herb notes of sage and tarragon. There’s a firm, earthy cal fruit and apricot flavors that sail on the long, supple
backbone, along with touches of matcha green tea. Drink finish. Drink now. 3,610 cases made.—T.F. 94 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea
now. 161 cases made.—M.W.
90 Chehalem Chardonnay Willamette Valley Vineyard Block 5 2018 $66 This is a wine of dimen-
Inox Unoaked 2021 $20 See Smart Buys, page 89. sion and detail, this offers keenly structured black cherry,
89 Neyers Sage Canyon California 2020 $30 clove and savory anise flavors that fan out toward medium-
A ripe and generous red, showing spiced plum, kirsch and
framboise notes on a velvety frame, with Earl Grey, spice,
90 Rex Hill Chardonnay Willamette Valley grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 213 cases
Seven Soils 2019 $35 A generous and expressive made.—T.F.
tomato leaf and firm tannins lingering on the finish. Cari-
white, with well-focused apple and nectarine flavors high-
gnane, Mourvèdre and Grenache. Drink now. 2,230 cases
lighted by spice and raw almond tones. Drink now. 1,137 94 Soléna Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Zena
made.—M.W.
cases made.—T.F. Crown Vineyard 2019 $55 Rich and polished yet
deeply structured, with a tense core of lively tannins and
89 Silenus Merlot Oak Knoll District of Napa
90 Sokol Blosser Chardonnay Dundee Hills acidity wrapped in floral raspberry, sweet anise, clove and
Valley 2019 $50 A compact and broad-shouldered
2020 $42 Generous and multilayered, with pretty stony mineral flavors that sweep toward refined tannins.
red, with currant, tomato leaf and dusty spice flavors that
apple and lemon flavors that take on blanched almond Drink now through 2030. 120 cases made.—T.F.
finish with slightly grippy tannins. Best after 2022. 500
and peach. Drink now. 724 cases made.—T.F.
cases made.—T.F. 94 Soléna Pinot Noir McMinnville Hyland
89 Susie Bynum Pinot Noir Russian River Valley
89 A to Z Wineworks Chardonnay Oregon 2021 Vineyard 2019 $58 Vibrant and generous, this Pinot
$16 See Smart Buys, page 90. has a sleek body but multilayered cherry and cranberry
2020 $25 Lightly steeped red and black cherry fruit flavors, which take on delicate tea leaf and spice flavors
shows a light zip of blood orange, with black tea and 88 Acrobat Chardonnay Oregon 2021 $16 Easy- as this glides on the supple finish. Drink now through
anise notes. This is a little woodsy along the edges, but going, with pineapple and peach flavors that finish on a 2030. 400 cases made.—T.F.
there’s good energy at the core. Drink now through 2026. spicy, sweet accent. Drink now. 3,107 cases made.—T.F.
680 cases made.—J.M. 94 Soléna Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea
Vineyard 2019 $55 Sleek in style yet multilayered,
89 Three Sticks Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Price
Family Estates 2020 $72 A plump, open, fruit-
OREGON with floral raspberry, fresh violet, cardamom and other
Pinot Noir dusky spices as this builds richness and structure on the
friendly style, with a burst of raspberry and damson plum
finish. Drink now through 2030. 175 cases made.—T.F.
lined with rooibos tea. This has charm, but it’s mostly up
95 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir McMinnville Momtazi
front, turning modest through the finish. Drink now
2019 $90 See Highly Recommended, page 87. 94 Soléna Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Domaine
through 2025. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 542 Danielle Laurent 2019 $58 This version is hand-
cases made.—J.M. 94 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem Moun- somely built and polished, with dark raspberry, clove and
tains Margo 2019 $42 Shows a simmering intensity black tea flavors that gather richness and structure toward
87 Roth Heritage Sonoma County 2019 $30
beneath a polished texture as this red unfurls crushed fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 600 cases
Robust, with generous spicy cedar accents and a note of
stone, raspberry and hints of tarragon. Builds richness and made.—T.F.
cola complementing a packed core of plum jam, huckle-
tension toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now
berry and kirsch flavors. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon,
through 2030. 1,715 cases made.—T.F. 94 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton
Petit Verdot, Syrah and Merlot. Drink now. 4,500 cases Hirschy Vineyard 2019 $65 Expressive and compel-
made.—M.W. 94 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Dundee Hills ling, with vibrant raspberry and floral blueberry flavors
Two Barns Vineyard 2019 $105 Vivacious yet grace- laced with savory tea and orange peel as this moves to-
OREGON ful, with multilayered raspberry and cherry flavors laced
with fresh violet, orange peel and spice tea flavors that
ward polished tannins. Drink now through 2030. 494 cases
made.—T.F.
Chardonnay glide on the polished finish. Drink now through 2030.
545 cases made.—T.F. 94 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton Shea
93 Alexana Chardonnay Willamette Valley Vineyard 2019 $65 A Pinot with presence and per-
Signature 2019 $55 Svelte and vibrant, featuring 94 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton sistence, offering multilayered blueberry and pomegranate
elegantly layered pear and apple skin flavors, which take Abbey Oaks Vineyard 2019 $105 Well-knit and flavors highlighted by black tea and fresh violet as this
on orange blossom accents as this glides on a sleek finish. alluring yet tense at the core, with polished raspberry, builds richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink
Drink now. 261 cases made.—T.F. stony mineral, clove and toasty spice flavors that finish now through 2030. 262 cases made.—T.F.
with fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 850
cases made.—T.F.

New Releases: Oregon
94 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity 93 Ponzi Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 92 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills
Hills Conifer 2019 $80 This compelling Pinot is Abetina 2 Vineyard 2018 $110 Vibrant and expres- Mimi’s Mind 2019 $95 A bit brooding at the moment,
broad-shouldered yet detailed, offering expressive blue- sive, this red offers detailed raspberry, black tea, clove and defined by a sinewy structure of tannins and acidity driv-
berry and guava flavors, which take on accents of bitter other dusky spice flavors that take on richness and struc- ing steely cherry and cranberry flavors, with forest floor
chocolate and forest floor as this builds toward medium- ture toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2029. and crushed stone accents. Best from 2023 through 2030.
grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 375 cases 185 cases made.—T.F. 500 cases made.—T.F.
made.—T.F.
93 Rex Hill Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 92 Ponzi Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains
93 Alexana Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Zena Jacob-Hart Estate Vineyard 2019 $75 Handsomely Avellana Vineyard 2018 $110 Soft and graceful yet
Crown Vineyard 2019 $65 Intricately layered and structured, with refined guava and raspberry flavors that elegantly structured, with floral raspberry, tea leaf and
sleekly structured, with expressive raspberry and pome- draw in notes of tea leaf and dusky spice as this builds ten- spice flavors that glide toward polished tannins. Drink
granate flavors laced with crushed stone and dusky spice sion toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through now through 2028. 185 cases made.—T.F.
as this builds polish toward medium-grained tannins. 2030. 510 cases made.—T.F.
Drink now through 2029. 146 cases made.—T.F. 92 Rex Hill Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains
93 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea 2019 $45 Tightly focused, offering a narrow beam of
93 Alloro Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains 2018 Vineyard Block 7 2018 $66 A wine with presence raspberry and pomegranate flavors that take on accents
$45 Alluring for the silky texture and elegantly layered and depth, this red offers blueberry and cherry flavors of black tea and orange peel as this builds structure and
raspberry, toasty spice and orange peel flavors, which laced with tarragon, stony mineral and clove as this builds detail toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now
gather richness and polish on the lingering finish. Drink tension toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2030. through 2030. 310 cases made.—T.F.
now through 2028. 1,900 cases made.—T.F. 237 cases made.—T.F.
92 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea
93 Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 93 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Vineyard Block 23 2018 $66 A broad-shouldered
Weber 2019 $69 Sleek and tense, this Pinot offers Vineyard Estate 2018 $45 Deeply structured yet not Pinot with verve, this offers dense cherry and blueberry
dark raspberry and pomegranate flavors highlighted by weighty, with dynamic blueberry and raspberry flavors flavors laced with cardamom and clove. Builds tension
black tea, clove and other dusky spices. Builds toward that take on notes of black tea and licorice as this moves toward a bite of tannins. Best from 2023 through 2030.
fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 110 cases toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2028. 3,373 233 cases made.—T.F.
made.—T.F. cases made.—T.F.
90 Chehalem Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge
93 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem 93 Shea Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Shea Ridgecrest Vineyard 2019 $50 Vibrant and fresh,
Mountains Adriane 2019 $55 Appealingly taut, with Vineyard Homer 2018 $105 Multilayered and hand- with snappy raspberry, rose petal and orange peel flavors
distinctive crushed stone and underbrush accenting mul- somely structured, with expressive guava, blueberry, that dance on a lingering, crisp finish. Drink now through
tilayered raspberry and floral tarragon flavors, which build crushed stone and black tea flavors that build tension to- 2028. 500 cases made.—T.F.
tension and richness toward refined tannins. Drink now ward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030.
through 2031. 734 cases made.—T.F. 282 cases made.—T.F. 89 Chehalem Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains
2020 $30 Tart and snappy, this opens with appealing
93 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem 93 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills raspberry and cherry flavors but loses steam midpalate,
Mountains Max 2019 $96 A wine of persistence and Canary Hill Vineyard 2019 $65 This Pinot is nicely finishing with savory, slightly grippy tannins. Drink now
tension, this slowly unfurls dense cherry and pomegranate structured and expressive, featuring cherry, blueberry and through 2027. 3,000 cases made.—T.F.
flavors that take on stony mineral, tarragon and tea leaf green tea flavors that build richness and depth toward
tones, which build structure toward broad-shouldered tan- medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 240 89 Rex Hill Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Witness
nins. Best from 2023 through 2030. 212 cases made.—T.F. cases made.—T.F. Tree Vineyard 2019 $58 Tightly focused, showing
medium-bodied blueberry, forest floor and cedar flavors
93 Colene Clemens Pinot Noir Chehalem 93 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity that finish with medium-grained tannins. Drink now
Mountains Victoria 2019 $70 Sleek in structure and Hills Block 6 2019 $100 Pulsating with tension and through 2030. 336 cases made.—T.F.
elegantly layered, this red shows polished raspberry and balancing snappy acidity with simmering tannins, this
pomegranate flavors, with hints of crushed stone, savory offers lively cherry and strawberry flavors flanked by
tea and orange peel that fan out on a long, supple finish. savory herbs, bittersweet chocolate and spice. Still com-
Drink now through 2030. 663 cases made.—T.F. ing together, but will bloom in time. Best from 2023
through 2030. 166 cases made.—T.F.
93 Hyland Pinot Noir McMinnville Coury Old Correction
Vine Single Clone 2019 $60 A lovely wine, supple 93 Zena Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir Eola-Amity
In the Sept. 30 Buying Guide, Bob Betz is the founder but
and delicately layered with raspberry, cherry blossom and Hills Slope 2019 $100 Like a brooding teenager,
no longer the owner of Betz Cellars.
toasty cinnamon flavors that sail on a lingering finish. this Pinot has a lot going for it, but patience is required.
Drink now through 2030. 500 cases made.—T.F. Offers notes of blueberry, stony minerality and forest floor
framed by a tannic bite on the finish. Best from 2023
93 Lingua Franca Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills through 2030. 528 cases made.—T.F.
Vol. 47, No. 10
Tongue ’N Cheek 2019 $60 Keenly focused and WINE SPECTATOR (ISSN 0193-497X) is published semi-monthly on the 15th
and the last day of each month except bi-monthly in January and February
steely in structure, this red offers vibrant cherry and pome- 92 Alexana Pinot Noir and monthly in March, April, May, July, August and September for $59.95 per
granate flavors accented by crushed stone and dusky spice. Yamhill-Carlton Fennwood year by M. Shanken Communications Inc.; 825 Eighth Ave., 33rd Floor, New
Builds tension toward snappy tannins. Drink now through Vineyard 2019 $65 This Pinot
York, NY 10019. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional
mailing offices. POSTMASTER: send all address changes and subscription in-
2030. 200 cases made.—T.F. is structured and precise, featuring quiries to Wine Spectator, P.O. Box 37367, Boone, IA 50037-0367 or call
handsome blueberry and cherry 1-800-752-7799 in U.S. and Canada, or visit www.winespectator.com/ad-
93 Nicolas-Jay Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton
flavors that are highlighted by black
dress. Outside the U.S. or Canada call (212) 684-4224 or fax (212) 481-
Bishop Creek 2019 $100 Handsomely structured, 0722. To order a new subscription write to the above address or call 1-800-
with detailed blueberry and raspberry flavors that bring tea and clove accents as this moves 752-7799 or visit www.winespectator.com/subscribe.
toward medium-grained tannins. Canadian subscriptions are $80.00 including GST and overseas sub-
in cardamom, clove and underbrush accents. Builds ten- scriptions are $145.00. Per-copy price is $6.95 for the current issue, $7.00
sion toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through Drink now through 2028. 183 cases DR. MADAIAH REVANA
& JOHN GABELHAUSEN for back issues in the U.S. and Canada, $9.00 for all foreign. For back-issue
2030. 288 cases made.—T.F. made.—T.F. Owner; President requests, visit www.winespectator.com/backissue or call 1-800-761-4099.
Deadline for advertising, both display and classified, is 60 days prior to the
date of the issue in which it is to appear. Editorial contributions should be
93 Norris Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 2020 $40 92 Alloro Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains sent to the New York office. Publication will be at the discretion of the editor.
Supple and detailed, with multilayered red plum and Riservata 2018 $60 Open-knit and sleekly styled, We are not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts.
pomegranate flavors highlighted by tea leaf and stony 2022 WINE SPECTATOR® is a registered trademark of M. Shanken
with vibrant cherry and raspberry flavors laced with spicy Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be
minerality as this builds tension toward refined tannins. cinnamon and black tea. Finishes with medium-grained reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by
Drink now through 2030. 477 cases made.—T.F. tannins. Drink now through 2028. 300 cases made.—T.F. any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying or
otherwise) without the prior written permission of the
copyright owner. ©2022 M. Shanken Communica-
tions, Inc.
Printed in the U.S.A.

UNFILTERED
Rocca delle Macìe Commemorates “Trinity” Westerns
With Special-Edition Magnums
n 1970, Italo Zingarelli, a former boxer
I and stuntman, produced the internation-

ally renowned spaghetti Western They
Call Me Trinity, starring comedy duo Ter-
ence Hill and Bud Spencer. Zingarelli fol-
lowed it with the even more popular Trinity
Is Still My Name in 1971, likely Italy’s most-
watched homegrown movie. (The Trinity
trinity was finally completed with 1995’s
Sons of Trinity.)
But as wine lovers know, these films
weren’t Zingarelli’s only triumphs before his
death in 2000; in 1973, he founded Chianti
Classico powerhouse Rocca delle Macìe,
which has been hosting some very cine-
matic celebrations of late.
Led by Zingarelli’s children—Fabio, San- Left: Sergio Zingarelli of Rocca delle Macìe. The Chianti
dra and winery president Sergio—Rocca Classico estate honored its film producer founder, Italo
delle Macìe celebrated the 50th anniversary Zingarelli, and his cult spaghetti Western series with 50th
anniversary celebrations. Above: On the set of the films;
of Trinity Is Still My Name this past July, de- special-edition magnums commemorate the occasion.
laying celebrations a year due to the CO-
VID-19 pandemic. Over two evenings, the If you weren’t there to celebrate in July, you
winery held exclusive Trinity screenings in can still get a look at rare Trinity memorabilia,
its olive grove in the hills of Castellina in filmstock, awards and photos at Rocca delle
Chianti, the setting dressed to look like Macìe’s Little Trinity museum, which opened in
Trinity’s sets and backstage. Hundreds at- July 2021 as part of festivities for the 50th an-
tended, including Spencer’s daughters and niversary of They Call Me Trinity. Rocca delle
Hill. “The beauty of every film, like those made by our father, lies above Macìe released a limited-edition magnum of its 2016 gran selezione for
all in the eyes and emotions of those who have watched them and still those celebrations: 1,970 bottles altogether.
watch them today,” Sergio Zingarelli told Wine Spectator. “It is not only to celebrate the Trinity saga that in these two years we
Rocca delle Macìe has also released a limited-edition Trinity Is Still have pleasantly met in Rocca delle Macìe,” said Sergio. “These two
My Name magnum of its 2019 gran selezione Chianti Classico dedicated great films have allowed us to start a new
to Italo Zingarelli, with a label designed by Florence-based studio Of- path for our family, that of wine, which like UNFILTERED
Read the full stories
ficina Grafica. The wine’s grapes are from the winery’s Le Macìe and cinema arouses strong, concrete emotions, online, and get all
Sant’Alfonso vineyards, which Zingarelli planted in 1974 (the winery thanks above all to the beauty of our the latest scoops on
replanted them in 2000). Fittingly, Rocca delle Macìe released 1,971 territory.” wine and pop culture!
WineSpectator.com/Unfiltered
bottles. —Collin Dreizen
House Wine of the Dragon: Which red wines should you pair with HBO’s Game of Thrones prequel?
The Iron Throne is back, and this time there be drag- ahead of them? It’s not the easiest series to follow.
ons aplenty—and plenty more wine! To truly complement these new episodes about old
HBO’s Game of Thrones prequel, House of the heroes, villains and dragons, you’ll want to cross the
Dragon, premiered in August, starring the ancestors of narrow sea for some dragon wine; obviously and spe-
all of our favorite and least favorite Targaryens, gener- cifically, Vintage Wine Estates’ new House of the
ally participating in all the same violence and scandal Dragon wine collection, vinted and bottled by Seven
that we’ve come to expect from the series inspired by Kingdom Cellars. The 2019 California Cabernet Sauvi-
author George R.R. Martin’s A Song of Ice and Fire gnon, 2020 California red blend and 2021 Oregon
and Fire & Blood novels (as with Game of Thrones, Pinot Noir are each priced at $20 per bottle, and the
Martin also serves as executive producer for House of labels are emblazoned with the Targaryen sigil of a
the Dragon). fierce three-headed dragon.
The new show takes place about 200 years before Without spoiling the Dragon episodes if you haven’t
OLLIE UPTON/HBO
the original series, so if you were serving Vintage streamed them yet, we can confirm that wine appears
Wine Estates’ Game of Thrones wines at your Night’s to be as popular as ever in King’s Landing.
Wine flows in HBO’s House of the Dragon Watch party, you were behind the times. Or were you —Elizabeth Redmayne-Titley

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CONTENTS Nov. 15, 2022 Vol. 47, No.

40Annual report on California Cabernet

COVER STORY Features

30Best from New Zealand 63Staglin Family

$6.5 million for cancer research; Auction of Washington Wines

Cover photograph by Jeff Harris

Harlan Estate Abreu Cappella

Visit WineSpectator.com/111522 to find links to all of the

FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL

top, laptop, tablet or phone at YouTube.com/WineSpectatorVideo. It’s WineSpectator.com membership.

Commitment to California Cabernet

to excel. And beginning on page 63, senior editor MaryAnn

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 15

M ARVIN R. S HANKEN • Editor and Publisher

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION

ADVERTISING AND INTEGRATED MARKETING

SHANKEN CREATIVE GROUP NEW YORK HEADQUARTERS

EVENTS WEST COAST BUREAUS

MARKETING AND CIRCULATION M. SHANKEN COMMUNICATIONS, INC.

New Subscriptions, Renewals, Inquiries and Changes of Address

18 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

Funds Push Wine As Alternative Asset

at 27, is a relative newcomer to the wine business. selling it.”

20 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

thumb, Vinovest investors typi-

lios—about three dozen since its particular collectible

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 21

Tornado and Hail Hit Famed IN MEMORIAM

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 23

The Great Italian Caper

TOP: DE AGOSTINI VIA GETTY IMAGES; BOTTOM: GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO

HOW HOW TO GET IT CARAVAGLIO SALINA CAPERS (olio2go.com; 3.2

“Capers to me are like olive oil in the CELESTINO

26 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

V Foundation Wine Celebration Raises

he 24th annual V Foundation Wine Celebration,

T which brought more than 450 wine lovers to Nickel

Above: NFL’s Denon Still (left) hosts with college

which featured magnums of Nickel &

AUCTION OF WASHINGTON WINES RAISES $4 MILLION

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 29

New Zealand’s New Normal

30 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

growth of wines available in the U.S. But despite the

MARYANN WOROBIEC’S RECOMMENDED WINES FROM NEW ZEALAND

WINE SCORE PRICE WINE SCORE PRICE

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 31

32 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

New Beaulieu: Righting the Ship

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 35

Rethinking Zinfandel in Sonoma

38 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFF HARRIS

WITH THE 97-POINT 2019

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 41

42 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 43

“LOOKING BACK ON ALL MY

in ’19, while keeping fresh acids.”

44 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022

RATING NAPA CABERNET VINTAGES

NOV. 15, 2022 • WINE SPECTATOR 47

48 WINE SPECTATOR • NOV. 15, 2022