St Mary's Church North Leigh, is a treasure trove for medievalists with a doom painting, a Knight's effigy, medieval stained glass, some fan vaulting, and a Saxon tower.

/ St Mary's Church/

St Mary’s Church North Leigh, on the outskirts of the Cotswolds and north-west of Oxford, is a fascinating place to visit. To me, the star of the show is a wonderful doom painting which, unlike many, is in good condition. Medieval parishioners participating in services would have no doubt what awaited them when the inevitable happened and they died. The three panels of their doom painting left it very clear. Only a 10 minute drive away is another incredible doom painting at South Leigh. St Mary’s can also boast of a chantry chapel with fan vaulting, a knight’s effigy with links to the Lancastrian side in the Wars of the Roses and a Saxon tower.

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Eternal Destiny Revealed; Is it Heaven's Gate or Hell's Fire? exploring the South Leigh Medieval Doom Painting's Vision of the Last Judgement.

/ St James the Great Church/

South Leigh doom painting north west of Oxford is a great example of what medieval people were expected to believe. Unlike some paintings with large areas lost, this doom painting is clear and easy to understand. At the Last Judgement, souls are summons from graves and decision are made as to their future. Heaven, on the left as the observer sees it, welcomes all sorts but likewise Hell on the right, also welcomes kings, queens, bishops and a whole variety of sinners. The devils surrounding Hell look gruesome as does a monster with a large, gaping mouth coming out of Hell to catch them. Allied to the doom painting is a medieval wall painting of St Michael weighing souls to see who goes to heaven and who has sinned so much that they will end up in Hell. Again, various Devils are in the painting and in this case trying to influence the decision. Also at South Leigh is a wall painting of St Clement and a painting of the “Seven Deadly Sins”.

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Warriors and Castles: Warkworth Castle, Shakespeare's Harry Hotspur and the mighty Percy family in the Wars of the Roses.

/ Warkworth Castle/

Life in medieval times in the north-east of England was one full of danger with a constant threat of war. Viking raids, as well as raids from Scotland, were a regular problem and from time to time kings of England came to this area to consolidate their power. Warkworth was owned by the powerful Percy family for over 600 years who preferred it to the much larger Alnwick castle. The Percy’s were renowned for taking some poor decisions in dynastic wars and losing their lives as well as their properties and titles. One Percy known as “Harry Hotspur” became a popular knight and has been remembered over the years for featuring in Shakespeare’s Henry IV part one.

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The hidden secrets of Norwich Cathedral: one of the best examples of Romanesque architecture in Europe.

/ Norwich Cathedral/

Begun in 1096, Norwich Cathedral has become a wonderful example of Romanesque architecture with its huge semi circular Norman arches. Looking upwards reveals one of its amazing gems, the highly coloured 700 roof bosses telling the Biblical story from the “Creation” to the “Last Judgement” and greatly outnumbering all other cathedrals in the country. Norwich has the second largest cloisters in England but again looking up reveals more gems, this time, a brilliant collection of green men including the famous gold leaved one in the photo above. Looking down in the choir, on the other hand, gives you a chance to see some great misericords. It is also the place where two fascinating people, Julian of Norwich and Edith Cavell, are commemorated.

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King's College Chapel Cambridge; founded by Henry VI and finished by Henry VIII, incorporating the largest fan vault in the world.

/ Kings College chapel/

If you are into stunning architecture, this place fits the bill. It is often quoted that King’s College Chapel “is one of the finest examples of late perpendicular gothic English architecture”. Although begun by Henry VI, as you walk to the entrance, you will see the Tudor stamp and two steps inside, you will be bowled over by, what one of the guides described as, “Tudor Bling”! Look closely at the rood screen and you will see intertwined H and A standing for Henry VIII and his second wife, Anne Boleyn. Added to this are 25 beautiful Tudor stained glass windows created by the finest Flemish craftsmen of the day. At the end of this blog you will see some excellent examples of green men, something we always look for in churches and cathedrals.

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Okehampton Castle; a romantic medieval ruin set in the beautiful Devon countryside with some fascinating former owners with stories to tell.

/ Okehampton Castle/

Okehampton Castle s a romantic medieval ruin set in the beautiful Devon countryside with some fascinating former owners with stories to tell. Exploring the castle is an engaging experience. Built, soon after the Battle of Hastings and as part of the Norman Conquest, the castle had a vital role to play in consolidating William the Conqueror’s control of the rebellious South-West of England. Built on a natural spur of high land above the valley of the River Okement, its location was carefully chosen to dominate the area and be very difficult to successfully attack. Having seen little action in its early years, it became a hunting lodge for its owners to carry out their favourite pastime and entertain as well as impress, its illustrious guests. It was eventually owned by the Courtenay family who became involved in national politics and suffered some great setbacks with Thomas Courtenay, in 1461 and Henry Courtenay, in 1538, paying the ultimate price of beheading.

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Lincoln Castle; a centre of national events, walk the entire curtain wall, see two mottes, a Victorian prison and a very rare copy of Magna Carta.

/ Lincoln Castle/

Lincoln Castle is an amazing place to visit with its complete circular wall that can be walked with great views of the nearby cathedral. It is rather unusual with two Norman mottes and its history of numerous medieval sieges. All the medieval sieges were of national importance and featured King Stephen, King Richard, King John and the nine year old King Henry III. In 1217, the castle was pounded by boulders fired from massive catapults known as trebuchets as part of the Battle of Lincoln. Victory of Henry III’s army led by the heroic, William Marshall, just outside the castle walls put an end to English rebels and French troops claiming the English crown for Prince Louis of France. Lincoln Castle, has its own copy of the original Magna Carta on display, an audio visual display explaining this highly important document and a small but fascinating museum. The castle grounds also house a Georgean and Victorian prison where original cells can be visited. Lastly, it even has its own resident dragon!

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Exeter Cathedral; acknowledged as the most complete example of "Decorated Gothic" architecture with the longest continuous medieval stone vault in the world with stunning "bosses".

/ Exeter Cathedral/

When you enter Exeter Cathedral it is easy too see why thousands of people visit it every year. In front of you runs the longest, continuous medieval stone vault in the world, which, can only be described as awesome. Where each rib of the tierceron vaulting meets, there is a beautifully carved boss. Many of the bosses are of a bright gold colour and most of the bosses are highly coloured, illustrating that medieval churches were once dominated by vibrant colours. Gothic architecture was devised to allow in as much light as possible and this cathedral certainly meets that goal. Beautiful, gothic windows adorn the building and there are many fascinating features to search for such as misericords, green men and an early 15th century medieval clock.

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Penshurst Place; Henry VIII's residence whilst he was flirting with Anne Boleyn in Hever Castle and possibly her sister, Mary.

/ Penshurst Place/

Penshurst Place is a beautiful house and gardens which date back to the mid 14th century. It is the place acquired by Henry VIII to be able to flirt with Anne Boleyn and possibly Mary Boleyn who lived at nearby Hever Castle. It has had some fascinating owners including the second Duke of Buckingham who was closely involved with Richard III’s takeover of power and possible the assassination of the “Princes in the Tower. His successor, the third Duke of Buckingham, put on an extravagant feast to impress Henry VIII in 1519 at Penshurst, only to be executed two years later for treason! Among its many rooms is the stunning Barons’ Hall, a great hall that has been featured in numerous documentaries about Medieval and Tudor history and is one of the best examples of a great hall in the country.

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Westminster Abbey, an awesome building for royal funerals, royal tombs, marriages and coronations plus a magnificent place to host Poets' Corner" .

/ Westminster abbey/

Westminster Abbey, an awesome building for royal funerals, royal tombs, marriages and coronations plus a magnificent place to host Poets' Corner. The Abbey is the burial place for 3,300 people including; Edward I and his wife; Eleanor of Castile; Edward III and his wife, Philippa of Hainault; Henry V, sometimes seen as the greatest ever King of England; Queen Elizabeth I and Mary Queen of Scots. In total, 17 monarchs are buried in Westminster Abbey. Added to that there are 600 memorials including for such geniuses as William Shakespeare and Charles Darwin.I rarely use the word awesome in my blog but in this case it is highly appropriate. It was constructed to be awesome and inside it is guaranteed to take your breath away. Although, linked to Edward the Confessor in the 11th century, the church you see today replaced Edward’s impressive building beginning in 1245 and was largely constructed by Henry III and later kings.

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Totnes Castle; One of the earliest and best preserved examples of a Norman Motte and Bailey in the country.

/ Totnes Castle/

Totnes is a beautiful example of an early, motte and bailey castle that, by the end of the 13th century, morphed into a shell keep castle. It was a vital part of the Norman policy of controlling the troublesome English people, especially people living in the South-West. Totnes was one of the earliest types of castle and was built at speed in 1068 being part of William the Conqueror’ plans to suppress rebellious Anglo-saxons. It is a good example of a shell keep and, with visits to other types of castles, will create a great timeline of the development of castles culminating in Caernarvon Castle, Beaumaris Castle and Tudor castles such as at Pendennis and Southsea. Standing on top of the shell keep, gives fantastic 360 degree views of the surrounding area and therefore reasons for its location. Walking around the bailey makes it easy to see the development of the dry moat and ditches as the first form of defence.

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"Da Vinci Code", the Knights Templar and William Marshall, the "greatest knight that ever lived", see it all in the Temple Church hidden in the City of London.

/ Temple Church/

The Temple Church was the headquarters of the Knights Templar in London. The Templars have a fascinating history, have been linked to the “Holy Grail” and in modern times have featured in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code. In the film of book of his book, the key characters visit the temple in their quest to find the grail. In 1215 AD, it was the place that key negotiations for Magna Carta took place in the reign of King John. On stepping inside the Temple Church, eight effigies can be observed , one of which is William Marshall, known as “the greatest ever knight”.

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What did William Marshall do to earn the title of, "the greatest ever medieval knight"?

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In the in his biography of William Marshal, Thomas Asbridge wrote:“William also possessed innate qualities and acquired skills that set him apart. Marshal’s raw physicality allowed him to absorb battering blows that might fell others, while his strength lent jarring force to the attacks he delivered with either lance or sword. Few could match the assured agility of his horsemanship and a canny, guileful strategic awareness meant that he was able to outthink opponents.” He was not only a very skilful knight, from relatively humble beginnings being the son of a minor lord, he rose to the importance of being regent to the young Henry III and saving England from having a French monarch. He worked for five kings from Henry II to Henry III, as well as Henry II’s eldest son, Henry, who died before his father. In the reign of King John, the barons rebelled against their monarch and it was Marshall who played a key part in advising the king to sign Magna Carta and gain peace at least for a short time. John soon renaged on the Charter but soon after his death, William sealed the charter in the name of John’s young successor, Henry III and people’s rights in England were guaranteed forever.(see the next section for details).

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What was Magna Carta and why was it important?

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Magna Carta is seen by many historians as one of the most important documents in history because it established first in 1215, the principle that everyone is subject to the law, even kings and queens and it guarantees the rights of individuals, the right to justice and the right to a fair trial. It is significant because it put England on the way to democracy. Over time the powers of English kings were curtailed especially in the 17th Century. Furthermore, Magna Carta is often cited as having strongly influenced the American Bill of Rights in 1791 and the Universal Declaration of Human Rightist 1948. You can see it at Salisbury Cathedral, Lincoln Castle and the British Library London.

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Lincoln Cathedral, an awesome gothic building with loads of treasures to discover inside.

/ Lincoln Cathedral/

Construction of this magnificent cathedral you see above began in 1192, with its stunning rib vaulting as well as pointed arches and beautiful stained glass windows. To contrast with this, the amazing chapter house has fan vaulting and, coincidentally, was where some scenes of the film, the De Vinci Code were shot. Look closely and you will find beautifully carved misericords and if you are eagle eyed you will find some “Green Men” as well as a little creature known as the “Imp”. In the nave at the opposite end to the entrance is the tomb for the entrails of Queen Eleanor of Castile, wife of King Edward I. (her heart was buried in Blackfriars in Lincoln and the rest of her body, in Westminster Abbey). In the choir area, is the tomb of Katherine Swynford, the mistress and third wife of John of Gaunt whose family line ended with Henry VII claiming the throne in 1485.

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Chaldon "Doom Painting" or "Purgatorial ladder" , probably the oldest in the UK.

/ St Peter and St Paul's Church, Chaldon/

Chaldon “Doom Painting” has been featured in loads of books, especially chiIdren’s medieval history books and is stunning when you walk into the church and see it for the first time. It is possibly the oldest Doom painting in the UK, painted sometime around 1200 AD. It is unique, there is nothing to compare it with. Some people have suggested that it is part of the original mural but no-one has found any evidence to support this theory and looking around with my amateur eye, I couldn’t see anything that could be interpreted as being even a small bump in the white paintwork that could be concealing a fragment of another painting. The painting is believed to have been produced by an unnamed travelling monk who went from church to church. The painting is over 17 feet wide and 11 feet high. Only red and yellow ochre paints were used in the painting which again, makes it unusual. It is said to have been whitewashed when Cromwell and the puritans were in power and rediscovered in 1869.

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The king in the car park 2 : the backstory of the discovery and proof at the Richard III Visitor Centre

/ Richard III Visitor Centre/

A visit to the Richard III Visitor Centre is a must for any medieval history fan. It tells the story of the Wars of the Roses using some amazing graphics and how Richard came to rule England. You are then taken on a path to discover what happened to Richard’s body having lost the Battle of Bosworth Field to Henry Tudor. The great mystery was only recently solved but then the task was to exactly locate the skeletal remains. This was not easy because several misleading sources suggested that either his bones had been removed and buried next to a river or actually thrown in that river. This was not the end of the story because the next step was the monumental task of proving that the remains found were actually Richard III. Historian’s judgements would not be sufficient, it had to be proven by mitochondrial DNA. Finally, you can actually see Richard’s open grave!

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The king in the car park part 1: Leicester Cathedral, Richard III's final resting place.

/ Leicester Cathedral/

The king in the car park, part 1, is about Leicester Cathedral, Richard III's final resting place. In August 2012 there was a media frenzy taking place near an old car park in the city of Leicester. What was going on? The world’s media had just been informed that archaeologists had found skeletal remains which were possibly those of King Richard III of England. Back in August 1485, Richard III had been killed in the Battle of Bosworth Field by the army of Henry Tudor, soon to become Henry VII but there was a mystery about what happened to his body. Leicester Cathedral has become his final resting place. There you can see his amazing tomb, two beautiful stained glass windows commissioned to go with the tomb and the beautiful cloth (pall) that covered his coffin in his funeral. It is also next door to the Richard III Visitor Centre, specially created with audio visual facilities to tell the story of Richard’s life, how his body was discovered and give you a good view of his excavated grave.

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Breaking news; A new discovery that the Anglo-Saxon Sutton Hoo treasure includes a lyre from Kazakstan.

/ British Museum/

Remember the Netflix movie “The Dig” ? Well, Sutton Hoo is hitting the headlines again. An article soon to be published in the journal Antiquity by Gjermund Kolltveit, suggests that a lyre found in Dzhetyasar, Kazakhstan, dating from the 4th century AD is very similar to one found in the Sutton Hoo ship burial from the 7th century AD. Norwegian, Gjermund Kolltveit states in the journal that the lyre found in Kazakhstan is “barely distinguishable” from the Sutton Hoo lyre. In 2019, Kollveit attended a conference on music archaeology and came across a photo of the Dzhetyasar lyre and it immediately rang bells suggesting similarities with lyres in Germany and Sutton Hoo. “I recognized from the picture immediately, ‘wow, this is very, very similar to the lyres found in Germany and the UK,’ he said.

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Visiting London? The Museum of London, is one of the best museums in the UK and is free. (Part 1)

/ Museum of London/

Visiting London? The Museum of London, is one of the best museums in the UK and is free. You can see amazing objects from thousands of years of life in London, from a Mammoth tusk to a pilgrims badge representing a visit to St Thomas Becket’s tomb. You can get up close to those objects and see their little details. The displays are bright and informative. There are rooms set out as though they were from a Roman villa placing Roman finds in context. Several models are on display such as London’s Roman forum and Basilica as well as the original gothic St Paul’s Cathedral

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